Several photos are included in your inspection report. These photos are for informational purposes only and do not attempt to show every instance or occurrence of a defect.

This report is proofread before sending it out, but typographical errors may be present. If any errors are noticed, please feel free to contact me for clarification.

In the report, there may be specific references to areas and items that were inaccessible or only partly accessible. Suspended ceilings for example would be one of those conditions. I can make no representations regarding conditions that may be present in these areas but were concealed or inaccessible for review. With access and an opportunity for inspection, reportable conditions or hidden damage may be found in these areas. If a request is made by the client for a second inspection, an additional fee will be charged.

Components may be listed as having no deficiencies at the time of inspection, but may fail at any time due to their age or lack of maintenance, that couldn't be determined by the inspector. A life expectancy chart can be viewed by visiting http://prohitn.com/component-life-expectancies/

We make no representations as to the extent or presence of code violations, nor do we warrant the legal use of this building. This information would have to be obtained from the local building and/or zoning department.

When repairs are made on the home, I recommend that I be called back to verify that corrections have been satisfactorily made. A minimum assessment of $135.00 will be charged for each Work Order Evaluation Inspection that is requested that I conduct. Additional charges will accrue for anything in writing, beyond an email response, and for evaluations at more than 20 miles travel time—these costs to be agreed upon at the time of the request for further evaluation. REMEDIAL WORK - For any element or condition requiring attention, quotes should be obtained prior to closing from qualified specialists or contractors to determine actual repair/replacement costs. Any cost estimates provided, whether oral or written, represent only an approximation of possible costs. Also, any cost estimates do not reflect all possible remedial needs or costs for the property; latent concerns or consequential damage may exist. If the need for remedial work develops or is uncovered after the inspection, contact Proview Professional Home Inspections to arrange an inspection to assess conditions prior to performing any repairs.

IF THERE ARE ITEMS WITHIN THIS REPORT THAT REQUIRE RE-INSPECTION, YOU ARE ENCOURAGED TO HAVE ME COMMUNICATE DIRECTLY WITH THOSE HIRED TO MAKE THE CORRECTIONS TO ENSURE THAT REPAIRS ARE PROPERLY MADE.

There are many things that can be done to improve safety and living conditions within any home. While many of these issues come to light in the course of the Standard Home Inspection there are likely to be other things that can be done to improve the home.

The approximate square footage listed here is listed as a courtesy and is based off public records and disclosure. An evaluation of square footage of the buildings and property lines is beyond the scope of this home inspection.

For the purpose of this report all directions are given as if you are standing facing the front of the house. Items listed as Multiple Locations may not directly reference all effected locations. Examples may be given that should not be construed as the only affected areas. Further evaluation will need to take place to determine every effected location.

Driveways, sidewalks, stoops, etc., that slope to the house are likely to saturate the soil around the foundation or drain water directly into foundation cracks. Even if the flatwork originally drained away from the house, the soil next to the house usually is uncompacted backfill and is likely to settle. Water draining toward the house can lead to foundation instability, deterioration, and basement moisture problems. Or perhaps it would allow water cascading down the surface in a torrential rain to wash under a garage door or into basement window wells.

To maintain proper drainage away from the structure, soil adjacent to the foundation should slope at least 1 inch per foot for five feet away from the building. Paved areas should slope at least 1/4 inch per foot. Control of surface drainage is critical to keeping basements and crawl spaces dry. A clearance of 6 inches should be maintained from the soil to the bottom of wood siding or trim on the home, unless the material is pressure treated wood or other material approved for ground contact. Swales around homes can help manage water and reduce its impact on the home.

Brick may be made of clay or concrete. The characteristics of brick vary dramatically. Some brick surfaces are relatively soft, and erode with time. Other bricks are extremely hard. Some can be easily damaged by mechanical action; others may crack due to water penetration and freeze-thaw action. Some bricks are extremely porous; others less so. Some bricks have a hard glazed outer surface; others are uniform throughout. Most bricks are not designed to be in contact with the soil, and should be kept at least four inches above grade.

Vinyl siding is extruded polyvinylchloride (PVC). The colors go through the material, so scratching the surface will not reveal a different color below. Also, the color cannot peel or chip off the surface. The material comes in boards or panels, often intended to look like wood. Some of the newer products can be painted successfully, although this turns a maintenance-free siding into a maintenance-dependent siding.

The 'Security' of any home is never absolute. At the time of inspection I assess the 'basic functionality' of door and window locking mechanisms. No assessment of the individual or overall effectiveness of security is implied. Glass, frames, locks and other elements can be prone to 'tampering’ and are 'limiting factors' of locking mechanisms/systems. All security devices and systems must be balanced against the ease of escape in the event of emergency. Concerns about the home s overall security system should be addressed by a licensed home security company. It is our advice to you that once you move in is to replace all exterior locks for your safety.

The word “clad” refers to the covering on the exterior door or patio door unit and are considered higher quality. From the inside you can admire the beauty of the wood, while on the outside the aluminum or vinyl clad shell protects the life of your exterior door or patio door for many years. A common problem with the early sliding doors in cool climates was condensation and ice on the inside of the metal frame. The condensation can damage interior floor surfaces and building components below. Modern doors include a thermal break between the inner and outer halves of the metal frame. This keeps the inside metal part of the frame warmer, and reduces condensation and icing problems.

Sliding doors typically have a fixed sash and a movable sash as well as a screen. The glass may be single, double or triple glazed. Better quality sliding glass doors are distinguished by more expensive operating and adjusting hardware. The locking system on early generation and inexpensive sliding glass doors can be easy to defeat. Better quality doors have more secure locking systems.

Complimentary photos provided when at the inspection.

The overhead garage door is the largest and heaviest moving object in a house. According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), approximately 4 children die each year from accidents caused by garage doors. Many more children have suffered brain damage or other serious injuries when the closing garage door contacts them, and fails to stop/reverse its direction. A typical garage door weighs anywhere from 155 to 400 pounds, but wooden garage doors can weigh even more. During times of wet weather, wooden garage doors can even absorb about 50 pounds of water from the air. This extra weight can cause additional wear and tear on the garage door opener. As the occupant, you will become accustomed to the noises associated with the operation of your garage door and opener. If any changes occur with the squeaks and chattering most garage door systems make, it is essential to take action promptly. Consult a qualified service technician and never attempt to make adjustments to the door springs and cables yourself.

A FIRE DOOR is a fire-resistant interior door at least 13/8 in. thick, situated on a firewall. A fire door should have smoke seals to prevent the infiltration of smoke, flammable vapors, o superheated gases; it should also be self-closing, though codes vary and some homeowners find this feature inconvenient when they arrive home with a car full of groceries. Fire doors should be free of through-holes of any kind, whether for glazing or pet ports.

Complimentary photos provided when at the inspection.

A gable roof is the classic, most commonly occurring roof shape in those parts of the world with cold or temperate climates. It consists of two roof sections sloping in opposite directions and placed such that the highest, horizontal edges meet to form the roof ridge.

Asphalt shingles (also called composition shingles) are the most common roofing material used today. The shingles consist of asphalt-impregnated felt paper or glass fiber mats, coated with a layer of asphalt and covered with granular material.

Roof flashings are used to keep a roofing system water proof where the roofing material starts, stops, changes direction or is penetrated. During inspection, we look for standard flashing techniques that could be considered normal or standard in our region. Damaged, incomplete or non-standard flashings can be a sign of an older or less reliable roofing system and may require repair. Any non-standard flashings noted during inspection will be reported on below if found. Click this link for proper installation of wood shakes and shingles http://www.cedarbureau.org/installation/roof-installation-manual/

Aluminum gutters do not rust but they dent easily, particularly with tall, heavy ladders. Joints in aluminum gutters are usually riveted together and caulked. The caulking must be renewed every few years. Aluminum gutters usually have very few joints, since the gutters are typically fabricated on the job site from long rolls of aluminum stock. Aluminum gutter is also pre-finished and does not require regular painting. Life expectancy is estimated to be 20 to 25 years.

Four-inch gutters are good for relatively small roof areas; however, five-inch gutters are preferred because of their additional capacity. Five-inch gutters are also less likely to allow water to overshoot the gutters when the water is draining off a steeply pitched roof. While "rules of thumb" for both gutter size and number of downspouts needed often are based simply on the length of roof edge that is being drained, this approach is flawed in that it fails to consider the total roof area that is being drained. A roof that is very small in total area, even if very long, may get along just fine with a smaller 4-inch gutter, while a much larger roof area with the same length of roof eaves needs a 5-inch gutter or larger.

Fiberglass insulation is one of the most common insulation materials available and is made from threads of glass glued together with phenolic resins. It is available in batt form, rigid board and loose fill. It is resistant to moisture, mildew, fungus and vermin, and some types are non-combustible. It is, however, a skin and eye irritant and inhaling small threads of fiberglass is not healthy. These irritations are only common during installation, and once the material is in place it is not considered to be a problem.

Electric furnaces act much like a hair dryer. They pull air into the system and through a heat exchanger. Once in the heat exchanger, electric heating elements will warm up the air. This warm air is then pushed by the blower into the ductwork in your home, which distributes the air into the rooms of your home.

The air conditioning system was a split system in which the cabinet housing the compressor, cooling fan and condensing coils was located physically apart from the evaporator coils. As is typical with split systems, the compressor/condenser cabinet was located at the home's exterior so that the heat collected inside the home could be released to the outside air. Evaporator coils designed to collect heat from the home interior were located inside a duct at the air handler.

Temperatures at supply registers are taken with infrared camera but it must be noted the instrument measures grill surface temperature and not the air temperature. Different register materials and textures will show different temperatures than the actual air temperature (Thermometers would be more accurate but take considerable time to take). The infrared temperatures should therefor only be seen as a rough guestimate of temperatures. It is the "relative" difference in temperatures that is of interest to the inspector to determine some level of consistent function of the system at the time of inspection and to find registers that are not delivering heat consistent with other locations.

• Basically the only thing a home inspector can verify is that warn air flowed from the supply registers.
• Adequacy can be affected by many factors including seasonal extremes and personal methods of use of the system

Ventless fireplaces, also known as duct-free fireplaces and room-venting fireplaces, are a type of residential gas-heating device. Ventless fireplaces are often preferred because they burn at an extremely high efficiency and release far less harmful gasses than most other portable heating alternatives. Gas Log Fireplaces are typcially ventless fireplaces unless you have a fully functioning wood burning fireplace installed. Despite their name, ventless fireplaces vent unburned combustion byproducts directly into the living space of a home. Traditional fireplaces are equipped with a flue which vents the bulk of carbon monoxide (CO) and airborne particulates created by the fire into the outdoors.

Manufacturers of ventless fireplaces usually install an Oxygen Depletion Sensor (ODS) which will automatically shut down the fireplace if oxygen levels in the home become dangerously low. If the Oxygen Depletion Sensor fails during a Carbon Monoxide producing event, potenital harm can result to the occupants of the home. Ventless Fireplaces should be inspected to ensure that an Oxygen Depletion Sensor is installed and is functioning properly.

The service amperage is determined by inspecting the service entrance conductors size as well as the service disconnects size. Voltages are not tested for and therefore not confirmed, so 120/240VAC is assumed. If a concern, a licensed electrician could test for proper voltages to see if 120/208VAC is present. In some situations the sizing of the service entrance conductors will not be legible or marked and the stated amperage will be followed by "presumed" as it could not be verified. 

Underground service wires (laterals) are in a conduit, typically buried one and a half to three feet deep. The conduit comes up to the electric meter on the outside of the building. From the electric meter, the conduit goes into the building.

During a home or property inspection, every effort is made to inspect the visible components of the electrical system grounding. The grounding system is critical for safely discharging electrical surges, especially in the case of lightning strikes. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of the grounding system as much of the system is not visible and there are not practical tests one can perform in the way we can test a furnace or a plumbing fixture. However, there are many things that can lead me to recommend further evaluation of the grounding system by a licensed electrical contractor and they will be documented in the observations below if discovered.

The service box includes a circuit breaker that can be used to shut off all the power in the house (newer), or a switch with a handle located on the outside, and the service fuses inside (older). This is your emergency shut-off for all the electricity in the home. The service box may stand alone, although in modern homes, a combination panel (service panel) is common. This includes the breakers for the individual branch circuits.

The main electrical service panel was a type 1, rated for indoor use primarily to provide a degree of protection against limited amounts of falling dirt.

The service disconnect was independent of the "main" interior panel, and this panel containing the service disconnect is considered the service equipment. This renders the "main" panel in the home to a distribution panel. The distribution panel will be inspected to determine that the proper rules for distribution panels were followed. 

The branch wiring was inspected at visible portions looking for any significant deficiencies or defects that could be a fire and/or safety hazard; including but not limited to: connections made outside of a junction box, wiring terminations, open junction boxes, damage, the wiring material, improper support, etc. The majority of branch feeders are not visible due to being behind wall and ceiling coverings, insulation, etc. No significant deficiencies were visibly present at the time of inspection unless otherwise noted in this report. 

A representative number of receptacles were tested with a polarity tester to confirm proper wiring. No wiring deficiencies were reported by the tester unless otherwise noted in this report.

As of July 1st, 2014, any receptacle replaced in a home must be provided with AFC protection when the receptacle is being replaced in circuits that require AFC protection (See AFCl section of this report below). This can be accomplished at the receptacle itself, at a point downstream of the receptacle or at the panel where the circuit originates. Whenever possible protecting the entire circuit is considered best practice.

• In the context of any electrical panel replacement, the installation of AFCI breakers on all circuits that currently require AFC protection is considered best practice.

During the home inspection, smoke detectors are not tested as it would not be an accurate test. For reliability, fire marshals recommended updating smoke alarms every 10 years and changing batters bi-annually. The latest data indicate that we should be using photo-electric technology in our smoke alarms for improved fire detection and to reduce problems with false alarms which can lead to disabling of this important safety system. Unfortunately, the alarms have to be removed to determine if they are photo-electric or ionization types. It is surprisingly complex to accurately test a smoke alarm system and determine the reliability, age, and type of sensor technology used, especially as many homes can have half a dozen or more alarms throughout the house. A complete evaluation of smoke alarms is beyond the scope of this inspection. For optimal fire safety, I recommend taking control of these important safety devices and learning about how to service and maintain your smoke alarm system to keep the building occupants safe. For more information, please read this link.For more information, please read this link.

At the time of inspection Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors are not tested. I recommend that prior to move-in, that all Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors be tested and have their batteries replaced. It is recommended that Carbon Monoxide detectors that are older than 10 years should be replaced by a licensed electrical contractor if they are hard-wired: and replaced by the homeowner/handy-person if they are battery operated.

• For optimum safety. Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors are required in the immediate vicinity of bedrooms and on each floor level of the home and inside of any sleeping room if there is a gas appliance in the room. 'Immediate vicinity' is not defined but most manufacturers recommend they be installed between 5 and 20 feet of sleeping rooms. Alarm/detectors must be maintained free of dust and debris which can interfere with operation. They should be installed per manufacturer s instructions. While it is primarily fuel burning appliances the produce carbon monoxide. CO is also produced from electric appliances like toasters and ranges (especially ovens on self clean cycle).
• Please be aware that residential Carbon Monoxide detectors are cumulative and are designed to not sound with low levels of carbon monoxide. Some people are more susceptible than others to low levels of carbon monoxide and I consider it prudent to familiarize yourself with the symptoms/warning signs of Carbon Monoxide. Detectors that meet the UL-2034 requirements for detectors installed in residential construction are not allowed to sound at continuous CO levels up to 30 ppm. 70 ppm for 4 hours. 150 ppm for up to SO minutes and 400 ppm for up to 1S minutes. CARBON MONOXIDE
• Combination type alarms can be problematic even while meeting legal requirements ' for installation. Carbon Monoxide detectors in conjunction with Ionization type smoke detectors is problematic due to the poor ion technology (see links under smoke alarms previous to this section). The devices also can have different life spans. For best protection, combination type alarms should not be used, even though this is a standard recommendation of manufacturers. The International Association of Fire Fighters (IAFF) specifically recommends against installing combination alarms. Combination type alarms are required to be UL-217 and UL-2034 listed.

Typically, the water mains in residential areas are four inches to 12 inches in diameter, and run several feet below the street level. Smaller pipes, usually 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch diameter, run from city mains into buildings. The water may typically be supplied at a pressure of 40 to 70 psi (pounds per square inch).

Please note that when the sewage discharge type is listed here, it is listed based on public records and disclosure. It is always possible that the system is not as it is listed; for example, a property could be listed as a public sewer system when in fact it is on a private septic system. This is unlikely, but is another reason why we recommend further evaluation of all sewage discharge systems.

The home was equipped with an electric water heater. This type of water heater uses electric elements to heat water in the tank. These elements can often be replaced when they burn out. Heating elements should be replaced only by qualified plumbing contractors or HVAC technicians.

The temperature and pressure relief valve it arguably one of the most important safety devices in your house. Should the thermostats fail inside your water heater this allows excess pressure to blow off, which will prevent catastrophic build up of temperature and pressure which con make water heaters explosive. I do not test the 'blow off valve' during inspection as there it a risk it could stick open and testing could cause the need for a repair. It it recommended that these be inspected annually: I would at least ask for a plumber to test the device every time I had a plumber out for any other job

A temperature and pressure relief valve (TPRV) is required on all water heaters to discharge any excessive pressure within the tank. A discharge pipe should be attached to the valve and directed to a safe location away from body contact. Newer installations must be directed to the building exterior or to an approved indoor drain receptor.

Most manufacturers suggest that homeowners test these valves at least once a year by lifting the lever to ensure the valve discharges properly and also recommend inspection of these safety devices every three years. The picture here shows a typical TPRV. They may also be found on the side of the heater on some models. | do not test these valves due to the possibility that they may leak after testing. A leaking or inoperative TPRV should be replaced immediately by a licensed plumber.

Due to inconsistencies between both UPC and IPC Plumbing codes, and water heater manufacturer's instructions, and TPRV manufacturer instructions, it is not actually possible to install the drain from the Water Heater TPRV “properly.” There are conflicts with distance of termination to the floor/ground, types of pipes approved, and diameters of pipes approved. Additional confusion is added when jurisdictional inspectors approve installations/materials specifically not allowed by both codes and manufacturers, My recommendations will vary depending on the installation and will be included in the applicable narratives below.

Most codes defer to manufacturer instructions and { favor those recommendations. The yellow tag on the valve states clearly the termination should be 6" above the floor which is more consistent with the UPC code requirements.

Your report includes many photographs. Some pictures are intended as a courtesy and are added for your information. Some are to help clarify where the inspector has been, what was looked at, and the condition of the system or component at the time of the inspection. Some of the pictures may be of deficiencies or problem areas, these are to help you better understand what is documented in this report and may allow you to see areas or items that you normally would not see. Not all problem areas or conditions will be supported with photos.

Exhaust fans are recommended in all bathrooms, and are more important where a bathroom does not have an operable window.

• The fan should discharge directly to the building exterior. In many cases, the fan terminates inside the house or roof space. This can add considerable moisture to a house, leading to condensation and rot problems.
• The exhaust fan should provide at least 12 air changes per hour. That means it should replace all the air In the room every 5 minutes. For example, in a bathroom that is 320 cubic feet (five feet by eight feet by eight feet high) the exhaust fan should have a capability of more than 64 cfm (cubic feet per minute).

Evidence of past leaks under kitchen sinks is common. While I endeavor to verify current leaks at the time of inspection sometimes leaks are incidental or due to specific uses not duplicated at the time of inspection. Monitoring of moisture conditions under sinks should be a normal part of routine home maintenance.

• Appliances are not moved during the inspection.
• Inspection of appliances, if done, should be considered "casual" and should in no way be construed to mean function is adequate. Any testing done is more related to whether they turn on/off or not, not how well they function or do not function. Any information provided is merely a courtesy, as our Standards of Practice do not require inspection of built-in or portable appliances.
• Dishes and other kitchen storage items can limit inspection of cabinets and countertops. These areas should be reviewed during a final walk-through.
• Oven self-cleaning operation, timers, and thermostat accuracy are not tested.
• Refrigerators, freezers, water dispensers, and ice makers are not tested.

The basement or cellar is one or more floors of a building that are completely or partly below the ground floor. It generally is used as a utility space for a building, where such items as the boiler, water heater, breaker panel or fuse box, and HVAC systems are located. A basement can be used in almost exactly the same manner as an additional above-ground floor of a house or other building. However, the use of basements depends largely on factors specific to a particular geographical area such as climate, soil, seismic activity, and building technology.

Thermostat settings provided at the time of the inspection.