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The Summary provides a quick view of important defects but be sure to read the entire Detailed Report. There are minor repairs and improvements noted throughout.
Navigation
On a desktop browser, the left side of the screen is the navigation panel. Selecting any of the displayed text selects that section. You will see larger text "Introduction", "Summary" and "Detailed Report", explained below. Selecting Introduction, Summary or Detailed Report will toggle between those 3 areas of this report. Although all browsers are compatible, the best experience is using Chrome on desktop.
On a Mobile device, because of the smaller screen, the Navigation panel is hidden until you display it. To display it, scroll up until you see the "hamburger" icon on the top right of the screen. This resembles 3 horizontal lines. By pressing this icon, the navigation panel will appear.
Throughout the report you may notice bright blue underlined text. These are links to more details either found in the report, or elsewhere on the internet. For example, in the summary section you may see "E-9 EXTERIORS:" By selecting the link (E-9) you will be taken to the 9th observation in the Exterior chapter where further details will be found about it including any photos/videos, notes etc.
The Summary Report
The Summary section presents observations of most importance in a brief view. The Summary report is meant as a quick look of important areas of concern or awareness. This is not a substitute for reading the entire report where additional details to the observations noted in the summary can be found as well as additional observation types.
The Detailed Report
The detailed report section is organized by Chapters and Sections and provides expanded details on observations noted in the Summary as well as additional minor repairs, improvements and knowledge. When selecting Detailed Report, the Chapters will appear in the navigation panel and are grouped by locations of importance (kitchens, bathrooms etc.) and systems (electrical, hvac, plumbing etc.).
Chapters are logically grouped observations, photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos and hot links to additional information. For example the "Electrical" chapter will present all electrical observations noted, "Plumbing" will show all plumbing observations etc. In this way, it is easier to know which skilled trades to hire, and to provide them with the information they need when repairing, improving and maintaining.
I encourage you to read the Detailed Report in it's entirety and keep it handy for future reference as there are improvements, suggestions, guidance and maintenance issue noted throughout.
How to Convert to PDF
This report can be converted to PDF and printed, saved and emailed. You can convert the entire report (Report PDF), the Summary section only (Summary PDF), or selective areas of concern (Create Request List). Using the latter feature is a great way to share specific information when negotiating a sale/purchase and providing to contractors, insurance companies, realtors etc. The buttons to achieve these are located at the top of this page when viewing on desktop and at the bottom of the left side Navigation panel when viewing on Mobile.
How to Make a Payment
Payment can be made by
- Etransfer to payment@walkerhomeinspection.ca or
- Credit card at https://walkerhomeinspection.ca
Final Note
Be sure to click on the photo when you want a closer look. Doing so will expand the photos to full screen. In fact, additionally double click on the photo and get really up close! Photos are generally of high resolution.
Reviews are always appreciated with thanks: Please click here to record a review, and help my business grow and thank you for choosing me to perform your home inspection
Steven Walker, (613) 813-9713 steven@walkerhomeinspection.ca
This report is effectively a snapshot of the property, recording the conditions on a given date and time. Home inspectors cannot predict future behavior, and as such cannot be responsible for things that occur after the inspection.
Category Definitions
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Only defect type observations are included in the Summary; Red Flags, Hazards, Repairs, Future Expenses, Due Diligence as well as Shutoff Locations and the Insurance Brief. All other categories are included in the Detailed Report as well as the categories previously noted, along with photos and further information. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
Equipment that may be at the end of, or close to the end of it's usual lifespan. Budgeting for replacement is usually advised.
Recommendations to request (or provide) disclosure with another parties. Examples include, information about a possible buried oil tank, an unused well, a dry water stain or hot water tank rental agreement.
These are repair items that should be considered "routine home ownership items," such as servicing the furnace, cleaning the gutters, changing the air filters in the furnace or re-staining the deck. These are listed in the summary to assist the home owner with achieving these regular activities.
Summary
👍🏼Positive Attributes
- I-1 INTERIOR:
The interior finishes are generally very good with many classic attributes retained however there is some cracking plaster which should be repaired.
- UI-1 UNFINISHED INTERIOR:
The unfinished basement is dry and clean with structural reinforcements applied.
- E-1 ELECTRICAL:
The electrical system (panel, outlets/switches & wires) appears to be fully updated to modern standards. There are relatively minor corrections to be made but overall the electrical system is very good.
- P-1 PLUMBING:
The plumbing system is up to modern standards however a potential leaking toilet was detected which should be addressed immediately.
- S-1 STRUCTURE:
The foundation appears to be solid and has received new framing support beams in the basement. The second floor is warped however due to the building's construction and age.
👎🏼Items of Concern
- BE-1 BUILDING EXTERIOR:
The building siding is wood which requires scraping and repainting. The siding is too close to the ground and the soffit requires some repair.
- H-1 HVAC:
The heating system works well however the furnace is toward the end of it's life and the associated duct work at the furnace requires some repair. The air conditioning unit is well beyond it's normal lifespan and may need to be replaced.
- A-1 ATTIC:
The attic structure has been reinforced and is in acceptable condition however the insulation level is very poor, there is no attic ventilation and an uninsulated vent is located in the unconditioned space.
Alerts
No Alerts notedHazards
- O2-1 OUTBUILDING:
An older model garage door opener was noted with no laser eyes in use as a safety feature.
These are less safe than modern openers which will reverse when the laser beam is broken. This safety feature is especially important for children and pets. Updating the garage door opener is recommended for improved safety.
Repairs
- BE-4 BUILDING EXTERIOR:
The soffit on the west side is damaged and requires repair.
Also note that no soffit vents are in place. This negatively affects the attic ventilation. I recommend installing soffit vents as well as roof vents.
- BE-5 BUILDING EXTERIOR:
The gutters on the east side appear to be coming loose as they are twisting away from the roof.
I recommend repairing these as soon as possible to prevent further damage to the gutters and potential additional damage to the roof fascia and soffit.
- I-3 INTERIOR:
A larger than normal plaster cracks was noted in a corner.
This is characteristic of old plaster walls and ceilings and appears to indicate a failure of the bonding between the plaster keys and lath. This crack is fairly sizeable and may need more extensive repairs than a normal light crack.
- I-6 INTERIOR:
The loose guardrail to the 2nd floor needs to be secured for improved safety.
This is an important safety item. The guardrail should be stiff enough to stop a falling adult. Hire a licensed general contractor to further evaluate and repair.
- P-7 PLUMBING:
Temperature Pressure Release (TPR) valve on the water heater terminates incorrectly and may be leaking
The discharge tube for the water heater temperature and pressure relief valve (TPRV) is not correctly installed. This is a potential safety hazard. Ideally, the discharge tube for a relief valve:
- Terminates to an exterior location or above a drain, though this is not always possible
- Terminates between 6 and 24-inches off the ground (UPC)
- Slopes to drain to prevent water pooling inside the discharge tube
- Is not made from pipe with an inside diameter less than 3/4 on an inch
- Terminates to a visible location that can be monitored for leaks and discharges
- Does not have a threaded termination point which would prevent accidental capping of this important discharge
- Does not terminate into a drain pan
I recommend having this relief valve discharge tube further investigated and repaired as recommended by a licensed plumber.
- P-13 PLUMBING:
A high moisture reading was taken around the 2nd floor Common bathroom toilet, indicating there is likely leakage and possibly concealed water damage.
I also noted water stains around the toilet and thermal imaging appears to confirm the high moisture level. It is difficult to determine the extent of the needed repair at this time. Repairs can be simple or more complex depending on the moisture source and the condition of materials below the toilet. Further investigation is required to determine an accurate scope of repair. Hire a licensed plumbing contractor to further evaluate and repair the toilet and the finish floor and sub-floor as needed.
- H-11 HVAC:
The furnace return air plenum is corroded.
The plenum should be cleaned or repaired and all joints sealed using duct mastic. Hire a qualified heating contractor to further evaluate and repair.
- A-5 ATTIC:
The exhaust ductwork for the laundry vent is uninsulated in the attic space.
This can lead to seasonal condensation problems. Replace these exhaust vents with insulated exhaust ducts or insulate to R-8 or better.
Future Expenses
- I-9 INTERIOR:
Most of the windows are more than 30 years old.
The average lifespan of residential windows is 15 to 30 years if well maintained. I recommend budgeting for window replacements as they may begin to fail.
- H-8 HVAC:
The air conditioning system was not tested due to cold temperatures and it is old and should be considered unreliable.
Air conditioning compressors have fairly unreliable service lives that can range from as little as 7 to as many as 30 years. Service life can depend on keeping a proper refrigerant charge and reliable return air flow as well as the amount the system has been used. I recommend having this old system serviced by a licensed heating and cooling professional and have the refrigerant charge checked. Given the age of this unit I would budget to replace at any time.
Disclosures
- P1-1 PROPERTY:
This building is located near a stream. This presents risks for seasonal flooding problems
and should be further investigated to see if any history of flooding has occurred on the property. Be sure to inquire with the seller about any flooding history. At the time of inspection I found no red flags to indicate regular flood damage in the home.
- E-10 ELECTRICAL:
Evidence of Knob and tube (K&T) wiring is noted indicating that it was previously used in the building.
Knob & Tube wiring is an old style of wiring where conductors are run outside of a sheathed cable and supported on ceramic knobs and protected by ceramic tubes where the wire passes through framing. Knob and tube wiring does not meet today's standards and alterations and extensions to this wiring are seldom done correctly and tend to produce safety hazards. I was unable to visually locate any active K&T wiring in the home, so it may have all been upgraded. There is a possibility that some K&T wiring is still employed however and it is simply not visible. Evaluation by a licensed electrician and an ESA certificate is recommend and possibly required in order to insure the home. If the upgrade documents including an ESA certificate is already available then be sure to keep it for your records.
- P-9 PLUMBING:
A video camera sewer scope is recommended.
An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. Due to the age of the building, a sewer scope is recommended to further evaluate the sewer line and the below ground connections between the house and the municipal sewer line. Sewer scopes are done using video cameras and can reveal the materials, condition and reliability of the sewer line. If that has not been done recently, I recommend having a sewer scope performed.
- A-6 ATTIC:
A rodent bait station was noted in the attic.
This is evidence of prior rodent control work. I recommend inquiring with the seller about the extent and scope of prior rodent control work.
Maintenance
- BE-3 BUILDING EXTERIOR:
The exterior siding and trim needs to be re-painted to preserve and maintain the siding system.
Budget for re-painting the exterior in the near term. This is routine maintenance, but can be costly.
- E-2 ELECTRICAL:
Trees and vegetation are impacting the overhead electric service drop.
This can fray through insulation and cause damage to the conductors and even arcing and fires. I recommend additional inspection of this drop by the utility. Remove trees, limbs and vegetation as needed and repair conductors if needed.
- E-8 ELECTRICAL:
Excessive insect buildup is noted in the electrical panel.
I recommend having these cleaned out.
- P-12 PLUMBING:
Older hose faucets were noted on this building which must be winterized.
Updating the hose faucets is recommended. Modern hose faucets are typically "frost free," which are (arguably) more resistant to bursting in cold weather. In the meantime, be sure to winterize your hose faucets during cold weather (shutting the interior tap) to prevent from freezing, including disconnecting any attached hose.
- H-3 HVAC:
Annual servicing of central heating equipment is recommended
Records indicate that this furnace has not been serviced in the last year. The furnace was tested during inspection and was operational. The design life of these forced air furnaces is 15-20 years. Hire a licensed heating contractor to service and further evaluate the furnace.
- H-10 HVAC:
Heating ductwork cleaning is recommended.
The heating ductwork is moderately clean however I always recommend duct cleaning whenever home owners change for sanitary reasons.
- H-12 HVAC:
A WETT (Wood Energy Technology Transfer) inspection is recommended.
This may be required by your lender and/or insurance company before use of the wood stove. An annual inspection and cleaning of all chimneys, fireplaces, solid fuel-burning appliances, and vents is also recommend. This inspection includes, not only cleaning the interior of the chimney pipe, but also the use of specialized tools and testing procedures such as video cameras, etc. to thoroughly evaluate the serviceability of the entire flue lining and fireplace/chimney system. If a chimney cleaning has not been performed over the past 12 months, such an inspection is recommended before the home changes ownership---for fire safety reasons. Implement any repairs as recommended.
Improvements
- BE-2 BUILDING EXTERIOR:
The wood siding has been installed too close to grade.
It is recommended that wood siding has a 6-inch clearance to soils. This can be difficult to correct. Remove soils away from the siding as feasible. Where a full 6-inches cannot be achieved, consider using gravel between the soils and siding to act as a capillary break.
- BE-6 BUILDING EXTERIOR:
The downspout on the north west corner appears to have been blocked, backed up, frozen and burst.
I recommend replacing the lower section of this downspout and extension to ensure roof runoff is discharged well away from the building.
- B-1 BATHROOMS:
The toilets have not been caulked to the floor.
Caulking the toilet to the floor is recommended and even required though opinions on this can vary. Best practice is to caulk the toilet to the floor, but leave a gap on the back of the toilet that remains un-caulked so if the toilet leaks, water has an escape route and is quickly observed for repair. The biggest risks of not caulking the toilet to the floor is that the toilet can become loose, and it is difficult to completely clean into the gap and as such is unsanitary. Here is a site that details the process. www
- L-1 LAUNDRY:
A moisture alarm with water shut-off feature is recommended under the washing machine to protect against accidental leaks in the supply hoses.
Pans can be effective when there is a drain, but even these will not protect against a burst supply connector. A moisture alarm with automatic shut-off will turn off the water and alert occupants of the leak.
- L-2 LAUNDRY:
No ventilation fan was found for the laundry room.
This is common in older homes and may be required in newer buildings (based on local standards). Installing a ventilation fan is recommended to help control indoor relative humidity.
- I-5 INTERIOR:
Smoke alarms are missing in all bedrooms.
Modern standards recommend smoke alarms in all bedrooms, in all hallways outside bedrooms and at least one on each floor of the building. At the time of inspection smoke alarms were missing in the bedrooms.
- E-14 ELECTRICAL:
The kitchen is missing GFCI protected outlets.
Not all kitchen receptacles need to be GFCI protected, but they are required to be if they’re within six feet of a kitchen sink or if they serve a countertop.
- E-15 ELECTRICAL:
The garage should have GFCI protected receptacles installed
as there is often wet floors from melting snow and/or electric garden equipment operated in wet environments.
- P-5 PLUMBING:
The water temperature reading at the kitchen faucet is lower than normal: 41.1 C (106 F).
The temperature may need to be turned up at the water heater so that it is in the range of 46-52 C (115-125 F) at the faucet. There is some evidence that hot water temperatures in the tank water heater should be greater than 54.5 C (130 F) to prevent Legionaries' disease from developing. I recommend installing a mixing valve at the hot water tank. A mixing valve at the tank allows the tank temperature to be set as high as 60 C (140 F) to ensure all bacteria is neutralized while providing 49 C (120 F) temperature at the faucets.
- P-6 PLUMBING:
An expansion tank is recommended for the water heater.
Expansion tanks help reduce pressure on the plumbing system by creating a buffer or a place for water to expand into as water swells during thermal expansion. Installation of expansion or pressure tanks is modern installation practice and will be required if a pressure reducing valve has been installed on a public water supply or if for any reason the plumbing system is closed. Open systems do not require an expansion device though they can still be an excellent way to help prevent build-up of pressures in the piping system. Consult with a qualified plumber to install.
- P-10 PLUMBING:
The AAV (Automatic Air Vent) used should in the kitchen sink should be CSA approved
(these are usually white, see example). Poor quality AAV's may get stuck in the open position allowing sewer gas to enter the home. I recommend installing a CSA certified AAV.
- P-11 PLUMBING:
This building has a sump pump installed and should have a redundant backup system installed.
It appears that this sump pump is critical in keeping the basement dry as it was wet, and active at the time of the inspection. I recommend one of the following backup solutions:
- Install a back-up battery in case of a power outage (especially when on private well)
- Install a water driven redundant pump (when on public water supply)
- Have a backup pump in case of pump failure
- Install a high water alarm to warn occupants of a failing sump system.
Quick Inventory Snapshot
- O-1 ORIENTATION:
Approximate Year of Construction: Earlier than 1900
- R-1 ROOF:
Roofing Material: Shingles
- R-2 ROOF:
Approximate Age of Roof Covering: 10-20 years
- E-3 ELECTRICAL:
Main Panel Amperage: 200 Amp
- E-4 ELECTRICAL:
Main Electrical Panel Type: Breakers
- E-5 ELECTRICAL:
Age of Main Electrical Panel: More than 30 years
- E-11 ELECTRICAL:
Electrical Wiring Material: Copper
- E-12 ELECTRICAL:
Electrical Wiring Type: Non-metallic sheathed cable
- P-3 PLUMBING:
Water Distribution Plumbing: Copper
- P-8 PLUMBING:
Waste Water Plumbing: ABS
- S-2 STRUCTURE:
Foundation Type: Basement
- S-3 STRUCTURE:
Foundation Material: Stone
- A-3 ATTIC:
Attic Insulation Material: Fiberglass
Shutoff Locations
Detailed Report
BUILDING EXTERIOR
Assessment
Siding
Soffit & Fascia
Gutters
Downspouts & Rain Barrels
Doors (Exterior)
Outlets, Fixtures
Window wells
Stairwells
Deck
Vegetation Growth
Garage (Attached)
KITCHEN
General Photos
Countertops
Cabinets
Windows
Outlets
Switches
Lights
Ceiling Fan
Sink & Faucet
Plumbing - Supply & Waste
Water Filters
Dishwasher
Refrigerators
Ovens, Cooktops
Exhaust/Ventilation
Disposers
Floor
BATHROOMS
General Photos
Countertops
Cabinets
Outlets
Switches
Lights
Sink & Faucet
Plumbing - Supply & Waste
Toilet
Bathtub / Shower
Ventilation
Doors
Floor
LAUNDRY
General Photos
Countertops
Cabinets
Washer
Dryer
Outlets
Switches
Lights
Sink & Faucet
Plumbing - Supply & Waste
Ventilation
Doors
Floor
INTERIOR
Assessment
General Photos
Ceiling
Walls
Floors
Outlets
Smoke & CO Alarms
Stairs and Railings
Wall Insulation
Windows
PLUMBING
Assessment
Water Meter
Water Supply
Distribution Pipe
Water Heater
Waste
Waste Water/Sewage Ejector Pumps
Sump Pumps and Drains
Exterior Faucet
Toilets
HVAC
Assessment
Primary Heating
Heating Exhaust
Central Cooling
Ventilation
Natural Gas Meter
Oil Storage
Distribution
Solid Fuel Fireplaces
ATTIC
Assessment
Access
Framing
Attic Insulation
Attic Ventilation
Venting
Outlets, Fixtures
Rodents & Birds
ORIENTATION
Property Specs
Inspection Type: Pre-Purchase
Style of Building: Traditional Multi Story
Building Use: Residential Single Family
Approximate Square Footage: 2,000-2,499
The approximate square footage and the approximate year of construction listed here is listed as a courtesy and is based off of public records, disclosure or a visual estimation. An evaluation of square footage and age of the buildings and property lines is beyond the scope of this inspection.
Approximate Year of Original Construction: Pre-1900
The approximate year of construction listed here is listed as a courtesy and is based off of public records, disclosure or a visual estimation. An evaluation of the year of construction is beyond the scope of this inspection.
Unless the wiring in the building has been fully updated, this building likely has wiring that predates the late 1980's.
In the late 1970's, laws were past to prohibit use of lead and asbestos in building materials. Manufacturers of building materials were allowed to sell existing stocks of materials that were manufactured with lead and asbestos, so even buildings constructed as late as the mid-1980's could possibly contain lead or asbestos. Common building materials include but are not limited to wall plaster, drywall, floor coverings and insulation. Identification and testing for lead and asbestos and other environmental testing is beyond the scope of this home inspection. If you wish to seek additional information and/or plan to perform destructive renovations, I recommend contacting an environmental lab or industrial hygienist.
Environment
On Site During the Inspection: Seller's Agent
Occupancy: Occupied
Animals Present: No
Weather: Partly cloudy
Temperature: Below 0[C]
Ground/Soil surface conditions: Frozen, Snow-covered
This home was occupied at the time of the inspection. Inspection of occupied homes presents some challenges as occupant belongings can obstruct visual inspection of and access to parts of the building. I do my best during inspection to work around belongings to discover as much as possible about the house without moving or damaging personal property, however, the presence of personal items does limit the inspection.
Please note that snow and ice limits the scope of the inspection. Typically, a visual inspection of the roof, grounds and structure on the outside of the house is severely limited when snow and ice are present. For example roof covering and flashing, patios, walkways, driveways etc. are not visible.
General Limitations
Please note that while I do look for and report suspected mould, identification of mould, mould testing and indoor air quality are beyond the scope of this inspection. If you are concerned about mould or indoor quality, I recommend additional inspection by a specialist. As a general rule, localized mould problems can often be easily repaired by eliminating the moisture source and removing or sealing the localized area that got wet. Best practices to control mould in buildings are to spend limited resources diagnosing and repairing water problems. Where water problems are chronic, mould problems can be more complex and expensive to correct. Where water problems are seasonal or localized, repairs tend to be more limited in scope and less complex to repair. Mould problems in attics are generally unlikely to affect indoor air quality because homes experience the stack effect where warm air escapes out the top of the house like a chimney. However, at the very least repairs should be made to diagnose and understand attic moisture problems to prevent on-going water damage in this space.
Asbestos was used in many materials up until the late 1970's. While I do look for and report suspected asbestos materials, testing and confirmation of these products is beyond the scope of the inspection.
Homes built up to about 1930 had knob and tube wiring and even those built in the 1940's and 1950's may have also. This is an old style of wiring where conductors are run outside of a sheathed cable and supported on ceramic knobs and protected by ceramic tubes where the wire passes through framing. Knob and tube wiring does not meet today's standards and alterations and extensions to this wiring are seldom done correctly and tend to produce safety hazards. Many homeowners insurance companies will not insure homes with this type of wiring and many electricians will recommend complete removal and replacement of this older wiring. Homes of this age may continue to use knob and tube circuits, occasionally even after electrical upgrades are visible and appear extensive. I look for knob and tube wiring during my inspection, however sometimes this wiring is hidden from view, for example under insulation or in wall cavities.
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During this inspection, a thermal imaging camera was used to check walls and ceilings for thermal anomalies and also to check specific appliances for verification of proper function. Thermal imaging cameras use the infrared light spectrum to build a picture of the house. Experienced thermographers look for clues in these thermal images that could lead us to otherwise concealed water leaks or missing air or thermal barriers. In older homes, incomplete air and thermal barriers are so common, we will only report on items that look significantly deficient and are worthy of correction. This service is included with our home inspection; it is limited and is not a complete thermal mapping of the house. The use of an infrared camera is well beyond the minimum standards for a home inspection, but I offer this service because I know it is valuable and can help us help my clients by improving our inspection services. Relevant thermal images are included in this report.
Elevations
For the Purposes of This Report, the Front Door Faces: West
East
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North
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West
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South
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PROPERTY
Driveway
Gravel
Walkway
Concrete
Site Drainage
Flat
This building is located near a stream. This presents risks for seasonal flooding problems
and should be further investigated to see if any history of flooding has occurred on the property. Be sure to inquire with the seller about any flooding history. At the time of inspection I found no red flags to indicate regular flood damage in the home.
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Retaining Walls
Brick
Fences
None noted
Irrigation
None Noted
Outbuildings, Structures
Detached garage
BUILDING EXTERIOR
Assessment
The building siding is wood which requires scraping and repainting. The siding is too close to the ground and the soffit requires some repair.
Siding
Wood
Clearance to Grade: Unacceptable, Wood Siding too close to grade
The exterior siding and trim needs to be re-painted to preserve and maintain the siding system.
Budget for re-painting the exterior in the near term. This is routine maintenance, but can be costly.
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The wood siding has been installed too close to grade.
It is recommended that wood siding has a 6-inch clearance to soils. This can be difficult to correct. Remove soils away from the siding as feasible. Where a full 6-inches cannot be achieved, consider using gravel between the soils and siding to act as a capillary break.
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Soffit & Fascia
Inspected from Ground
The Soffit is the underside of the roof overhang, This usually is perforated to allow ventilation in to the attic. The Fascia is the vertical edge of the roof, often protected with aluminum flashing.
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