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The Scope and Purpose
Purchasing a property involves risk
💲The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a structure by providing a professional opinion about the overall condition of the structure. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we don’t know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend that you attend the inspection.
These reports are typically created with time constraints. While I do my best to proof them and send them out without errors, some typographical errors and other errors and omissions will occur. I apologize in advance, and if any of these errors result in the report being unclear, confusing or incomplete, please contact me immediately for clarification/correction.
A home inspection is not an insurance policy
This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Home warranties can be purchased separately from insuring firms that provide this service.
A home inspection is visual and not destructive
The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking, they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing which will limit the scope of the inspection.
☢️Environmental/Mold Exclusions
The reported or actual health effects of many potentially harmful, toxic or environmentally hazardous elements that may be found in building materials or in the air, soil, water in and/or around any house are varied, and, in some cases controversial. A home inspection does not include the detection, identification or analysis of any such elements or related concerns such as, but not limited to, mold, allergens, legal/illegal drugs and other biological contaminants, radon, , bed bugs, cockroaches, fleas, lice, formaldehyde, asbestos, lead, electromagnetic fields, carbon monoxide, insecticides, Chinese drywall, refrigerants and fuel oils. Furthermore, no evaluations are performed to determine the effectiveness or appropriateness of any method or system (e.g., water filter, radon mitigation, etc.), designed to prevent or remove any hazardous or unwanted materials or elements. An environmental health specialist should be contacted for evaluation of any potential health or environmental concerns. The noting of the presence of materials commonly considered to contain asbestos, formaldehyde, lead, mold etc in the inspection report, should not be construed to mean the inspector is inspecting for these things but instead should be seen as a "heads-up" regarding these materials and further evaluation by qualified professionals may be warranted.
This is just my opinion and just for you
The contents of this report are for the sole use of the client named above and no other person or party may rely on this report for any reason or purpose whatsoever without the prior written consent of the inspector who authored the report. Any person or party who chooses to rely on this report for any reason or purpose whatsoever without my express written consent does so at their own risk and by doing so waives any claim of error or deficiency in this report.
Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are my opinions based on my training and experience. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have differing opinions. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals in the context of doing your due diligence.
When the definitions of terms used in this report are not obvious through context, refer to the legal definitions used in the modern building standards and/or manufacturer instructions.
The scope of this inspection
The inspection and report are intended to provide Super Client with information regarding the condition of the systems and components of the property as observed at the time of the inspection. I examine the readily accessible systems and components using normal operating controls. The inspection is not technically exhaustive and will not identify concealed conditions or latent defects. Any comments offered by me that could be construed as over or beyond the standards of practice or the language of this contract, are offered as a professional courtesy. Refer to the Washington State, Standards of Practice and/or Pre-Inspection Agreement for additional information regarding the scope and limitations of the inspection. The Standards of Practice are linked below and describe the "minimum" standards a Licensed Washington State Home Inspector must adhere to: Standards of Practice
All homes are likely to have some faults which may range from cosmetic defects to major safety hazards. Not all defects will be found. While some minor deficiencies may be mentioned, the emphasis of this report is to inform the buyer of the property condition by detecting deficiencies or circumstances that may affect the structural integrity of the building and its components and its safe use as a residence.
You are encouraged to obtain competitive estimates for major repair needs. Safety and health issues should be addressed promptly. It is recommended that all corrective work, other than routine maintenance activities, be performed by qualified licensed contractors.
It is beyond the scope of the Standard Home Inspection to identify components within the home that may have been part of a "manufacturer's recall". Mention of specific recalls within this report must not be construed to mean that all such recalls have been identified, or that such identification is part of a Standard Home Inspection. When possible, appliance Model Numbers and Serial Numbers are included in the report and can be used to check for recall related issues. If you have any question about specific appliances, information can be found at the CPSC (Consumer Products Safety Commission) website or contact the manufacturer directly.
I recommend you obtain as much history as is available concerning this property. This historical information may include copies of any seller's disclosures, previous inspection or engineering reports, reports performed for or by relocation companies, municipal inspection departments, lenders, insurers and appraisers. You should attempt to determine whether repairs, renovation, remodeling, additions or other such activities have taken place at this property, and this report will attempt to identify such items when possible.
Ranges, Dish Washers, and Refrigerators, Microwaves (and the like) are typically tested for basic function (Do they turn on). No assertions are made as to how well they function. Clothes washers/dryers are typically not operated.
Throughout this report, comments will be made as to the presence or absence of components or parts of components. This must not be construed to mean that these components or parts of components exist (or don't exist) in concealed areas or behind finished surfaces. For example: if foundation bolting was seen in one area, it does not mean that the bolting exists (or doesn't exist) in areas that are concealed. Also if an item was noted as "not being visible," that should not be construed to mean that none of whatever was "not visible" does not exist on the premises---it just means none was noted at the time of inspection and should be seen as a "heads-up" that the concern or condition might be present but hidden, or that the conditions that would allow its presence to be known was not replicated at the time of inspection.
Many of the non-narrative observations/documentation detailed in the report that are related to more "cosmetic" issues should not be construed as "all inclusive" but should instead be seen as "suggestive" or a "guideline" of conditions that may exist elsewhere in the home. It is not the focus of the report to comment extensively on cosmetic issues, but I do make note of them at times to help complete the "snap-shot" of the home at the time of inspection. For example, "nail-pops" seen in one room are likely to be seen (and should be anticipated) in other rooms even though I may not have noted them in the report.
Throughout the report I may make recommendations as to possible repairs. These recommendations are not intended to be substitutes or construed to be more appropriate than the recommendations of the professionals making the repairs. Conflicts in recommendations should be resolved prior to repairs being made.
Who should make repairs and what should their qualifications be?
Worker qualifications: In the text of the report, in some instances, I recommend that work be done by a "qualified" persons or "qualified" parties. I consider qualified parties, in licensed trades, to be those individuals who hold the necessary licenses to legally work in their profession -- licensed electricians, licensed pest control applicators, licensed plumbers, licensed HVAC professionals, licensed engineers, licensed general contractors, etc. In instances where a task may not, typically, need to be done by a person with a professional license, my recommendation is to hire an individual to do the work who is, based on past training, experience or expertise, qualified to further evaluate the condition or problem listed in the report and to then make appropriate repairs.
For additional fees, I can perform invasive inspection of concealed areas if desired. Please contact me for more information regarding this service.
💧Moisture meters used
Throughout the report, reference may be made to moisture conditions and percentages of moisture content. These moisture readings are obtained by the use of a Protimeter, Surveymaster Moisture Meter or the Extech MO55 or the Tramex MEP. Generally moisture meters are used "qualitatively" as opposed to "quantitatively." This means that actual percentages shown by meter are meant to be indicative of moisture as compared to likely dryer areas. False positives are not always possible to eliminate entirely, but moisture meters can give good guidance.
🌈Infrared
I routinely use infrared cameras when helpful but typically only qualitatively, so specific temperatures captured by the camera should not be seen as a quantitative analysis of surfaces but only used as a guide to thermal differences that would then be verified visually, by moisture meter or more invasive investigation.
Your participation is requested
Your presence is requested during this consultation. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by a shared visual observation of the conditions of the property. If you were not present, you are urged to contact me for a verbal consultation. I am happy to do a zoom meetup to go through areas of concern in the report. If you choose not to be present or contact me after, I cannot be responsible for misinterpretation of the report.
How to Read This Report
Getting the Information to You
This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a quick look at our "Summary Page” and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos and hot links to additional information.
The best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online, which will allow you to expand your learning about your house. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined – clicking on these will provide you with a link to additional information.
For the most reliable viewing experience, I recommend viewing the report on as large a screen as practical, as much detail can be lost on small devices like smart phones. For similar reasons, reports should only be printed in color to retain as much detail as possible and minimize misinterpretation.
This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document.
Chapters and Sections
This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.
Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narratives, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to no noteworthy defects or was in some way operational, there may be no narrative comments in that section and it may simply describe the components.
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation.
Pest Inspection
All items with the bug emoji (🐞) are part of a structural pest inspection. If your inspector included a structural pest inspection as a part of the scope of your home inspection, you can distinguish pest inspection items by this emoji. You can also go to the pest inspection summary page to see a summary of the items that are part of a pest inspection.
Summary Page of Findings
The inspection findings are summarized below. They are listed by importance with substantial safety hazard at the top in red or orange. These can be life safety hazards or issues that could result in a major short-term expense to correct or possible significant expense in the future if not addressed. This summary is not a complete listing of the findings in the report and reflects the opinion of the inspector. It should be considered highly likely there will be other issues you would like in the summary, and you should add these as desired. Please review all of the report pages. All repairs must be done by the applicable qualified, licensed & bonded trades or professionals. I recommend obtaining receipts and warranties for the work done (including copies of any necessary permits).
Many of these Narrative comments in the Summary have pictures and web links that better clarify the issues. Please refer to their place in the report body for additional clarification/information. Lack of information under any given component only means that, in my opinion, there was nothing in the body of the report that warranted posting it to the Summary. There will certainly be valuable information under each applicable component in the body of the report.
SUMMARY
Major Concerns
📌 Not ApplicableSignificant Repair/Safety Items
- ND1-1 North Deck/Entryway:
NORTH DECK/ENTRYWAY:
The deck structure had numerous issues and no attempt to document all these issues will be made in this report. The bulleted lists and narratives related to the information and pictures below should be seen as more representative as opposed to all inclusive and other concerns should be anticipated. Concerns were noted in relation to:
GENERAL INFORMATION:
- There were issues with:
- 🔹the structure
- 🔹the walking surface
- 🔹the stairs
STAIRS:
- Conditions:
- 🔹paint failure
TREADS:
- 🔹thickness of stair treads is less than the required 1-1/2"
HANDRAILS:
- Conditions:
- 🔹not present
FLOOR STRUCTURE:
- Construction:
LEDGERS:
- 🔹not bolted or not adequately bolted
- 🔹ledger attached on top of siding
JOISTS:
- Metal hangers/brackets:
- 🔹missing at some locations
STAINED/TREATED SURFACE:
- Conditions:
- 🔹weathering/deterioration
- 🔹inadequate clearances between siding and deck surface. the siding is too close to the deck surface and moisture damage can occur over time. Proper clearances should be created and/or vigilantly maintained.
PAINTED:
- 🔹failed paint
POSTS/COLUMNS:
- 🔹improper/insufficient attachment noted
BEAMS:
- 🔹improperly supported beams
Notes, and maintenance documentation/details about the deck, will be detailed in the pertinent sections below this narrative.
The following pictures with descriptions are meant to convey the necessity for evaluation/repair of the structure by a qualified deck installation/repair contractor as deemed necessary. The recommended minimum standards can be found in the American Wood Council's Prescriptive Wood Residential Deck Construction Guide. This guide is also known as "DCA-6." Another great reference, even though a little ahead of requirements in most jurisdictions and not free, Deck Construction Based on the 2021 IRC. I recommend evaluation, repairs and improvements by a qualified deck construction contractor.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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- PLUMBING5-3 🚿PLUMBING:
BUILDING DRAINAGE SYSTEMS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the drainage system of the home: I recommend evaluation, repairs and maintenance as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber (or in some cases by other qualified parties).
PUBLIC SEWER:
- 🚩Sewer scoping is recommended. Proper function of the building drain to the city sewer is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend that proper function be both determined and maintained. The best method to verify function is to have them inspected with a remote camera device. I recommend the drains associated with this property be professionally scoped by a qualified drainage scoping company (preferably one not associated with, or part of, a plumbing repair company).
- 🔹the long run of the drain
- 🔹the age
ABS DRAINS:
- Installation concerns:
- 🔹less than professional installation noted
- 🔹the drain from the laundry drops more that 8 feet to the trap and the maximum drop is closer to 24". This whole configuration of drain should be repaired in the context of fixing the venting discussed below.
FLOOR DRAINS:
- 🔹function not determined
VENTING:
- 🔹don't run above roof line
- No vent was found terminated above the roof. There was no plumbing vents through the roof as required. I recommend a full evaluation of all of the vent plumbing by a licensed plumber. It is possible it terminates in the attic space and was never extended through the roof when the roof/addition was installed. Currently the only vent is provided by an improperly installed air admittance valve. At least one vent is required to go through the roof. The laundry and kitchen could be accomplished with air admittance valves but the bathroom should vent through the roof.
AIR ADMITTANCE VALVES (AAV):
- 🔹🚩AAV's This installation is not done to manufacturer's specifications and could cause the unit to fail. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a licensed plumber. From one brand of AAV: The Sure-Vent® AAV must be located a minimum of 4 inches above the horizontal branch drain and 6 inches above any insulation material and within 15 degrees of vertical.
- 🔹not installed within 15° of vertical
- 🔹installed in a horizontal orientation
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
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- E2-12 ⚡ELECTRICAL:
☠️CARBON MONOXIDE CONCERNS:
The CO Detectors of the home had the following concerns. The pictures and bulleted list below document some of those concerns, but not likely all of them. I recommend evaluation/repairs by the licensed electrical contractor or other qualified parties following manufacturer's instructions.
CO DETECTORS:
- 🚩None seen post 2011. I recommend that homeowner/handy-person install carbon monoxide alarm/detector according to the manufacturers specifications wherever missing. These alarm/detectors are currently required in all homes. They are currently required on each floor level of the home and outside each sleeping area of the home. A plug-in type detector with digital readout is preferred. They are required to be maintained to the manufacturer's instructions by the tenant of the home. Sometimes there are combination smoke/carbon monoxide alarm/detectors in the home (verify with builder). Carbon monoxide alarm/detectors had the following issues and/or were missing outside the sleeping room areas:
- 🔹sleeping rooms at main floor level
🛑 SAFETY 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- E2-13 ⚡ELECTRICAL:
SMOKE ALARM CONCERNS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the smoke alarms in the home and proper evaluation/repairs by a licensed electrical contractor or other qualified party should be made.
SMOKE ALARM/DETECTOR:
- 🔹smoke alarms should be installed
- 🔹🚩past expected life. The smoke alarms are likely past their expected life at the basement. I recommend replacement of all of the alarms unless it can be shown they are less than 10 years old. If the alarms are more than 10 years old they should all be replaced by a qualified party throughout the home with photo-electric type alarms.
- 🔹🚩smoke Alarms not verified. The presence of smoke alarms was not verified at main floor level. I recommend evaluation/repairs/verification by a qualified party and that all alarms be placed where recommended by current regulations and manufacturer instructions. If the alarms are more than 10 years old they should all be replaced by a qualified party throughout the home with photo-electric type alarms. Information from NFPA
- 🚩None seen. I recommend installation of smoke alarms for improved safety. Smoke alarms were not found in the sleeping rooms or other rooms that could be sleeping areas or at other required locations around the home at the:
- 🔹basement level
- 🔹main floor level
- 🔹inside of main floor bedrooms
- 🔹main floor within 21 feet of bedrooms
🛑 SAFETY 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- HC-2 🔥HEATING / ❄️COOLING:
HIGH-EFFICIENCY GAS FURNACE CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the High-Efficiency Gas furnace that should be further evaluated, repaired and maintained as deemed necessary by the licensed HVAC contractor.
FUNCTION:
- 🔹not operated at time of inspection and proper operation should be verified
SECONDARY PAN:
- 🔹secondary pan is missing.
CONDITIONS/ACCESS:
- 🔹poor access. The location of the furnace in the attic is so difficult that I recommend it be relocated to the attic where the unit and all ductwork could be inside the conditioned space. This could not only improve access, but make the unit more efficient and allow the attic to be better insulated and no proper walkway would need to be installed to the unit.
- 🔹inspection limited
COMPARTMENT:
- 🔹rusting
CONDENSATE DISPOSAL:
- 🔹pump not necessary as condensate can drain by gravity
- 🔹drain improperly terminates in plumbing drain with out an air break
- 🔹condensate leaking into insulation
COMBUSTION/DILUTION AIR:
- 🔹adequacy of Combustion Air not determined. It is not always possible to assess at the time of inspection whether there is adequate combustion air provided. It is my intent to report on conditions indicative of the lack of combustion air. A combustion type water heater must have an adequate source of combustion air for the fuel to burn properly. An inadequate air supply may cause incomplete combustion and can produce carbon monoxide. This installation does not appear to have enough combustion air for proper/safe function.
VENTING:
- 🔹non-cellular core type pipe NOT verified
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Repair Items
- G3-1 ⛺GROUNDS:
CONDITIONS RELATED TO THE GROUNDS AROUND THE BUILDING:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the grounds that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by the appropriate qualified parties.
GRADING CONCERNS RELATED TO:
- Reverse grade. Improving grading around the home to minimize the flow of surface water toward the foundation is recommended. This is primarily a concern at the north side of the home where the overall slant of the grade is toward the home. Improvements to the grading by a licensed landscaping contractor is recommended. Grade should slope away from the home for at least 10 feet or to whatever distance can be created due to close proximity to adjacent properties or have proper drainage to accommodate surface water that can impact the building:
- 🔹crawl space/basement involved. This water can impact the foundation and find its way into the crawl space and basement contributing to the overall moisture burden of the home.
- 🔹at west side of the home
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- G3-2 ⛺GROUNDS:
PROPERTY DRAINAGE SYSTEMS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Drainage around the building. Drainage systems around the property warrant ongoing vigilant maintenance/cleaning. Conditions of such drainage mostly cannot be determined in the context of an inspection. The following conditions were noted and evaluation and repairs should be made by a qualified party as deemed necessary.
ROOF WATER DRAINS:
- Conditions:
- 🔹debris filled pipes evident
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- G3-6 ⛺GROUNDS:
FENCES AROUND THE PROPERTY:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Fences. While fences around the home are generally not inspected except as to how they impact the home, as a courtesy, I still report safety concerns and general conditions when warranted. All fences should be maintained and inspected periodically. Sometimes maintenance and replacement involves the neighbors and I make no determination as to ownership of fences on the borders of the property. Your due diligence is advised.
GENERAL FENCE CONCERNS:
- 🔹fences in poor condition and should be replaced if desired
- 🔹repairs will likely involve neighbors
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- BES-2 🏡BUILDING EXTERIOR & STRUCTURE:
FIBER CEMENT SIDING:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Fiber Cement Cladding. Siding protects the home from the elements and requires ongoing maintenance. Sometimes there are enough issues that entire replacement is warranted. The following issues were noted:
CONCERNS:
- Siding clearance conditions:
- 🔹too close to deck/porch/balcony surfaces
- 🔹behind deck structures
- 🔹siding behind/in-contact-with concrete structures
- 🔹not installed per manufacturers instructions/recommendations. Issues were noted that may impact the reliability, longevity or warranty of the product but may be difficult or cost-prohibitive to correct. Repairs to these items are often put off until such time as larger repairs become needed or damage becomes obvious.
- 🔹evidence of patching/repairs
FLASHINGS:
- 🔹1/4 inch gaps missing at horizontal flashings
- Penetrations. With cement board siding there are specific requirements related to penetrations of the siding. This includes pipes. There are numerous issues that do not meet modern requirements. Location (under overhangs for example) will dictate how important repairs will be. Sometimes maintenance is all that is necessary. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a qualified party experienced with cement board siding installation requirements at the following locations: outside faucets, etc. There are also other siding details that do not meet cement board installation related to penetrations:
- 🔹missing flashings
I recommend a full evaluation by a qualified siding contractor to determine what repairs are necessary and to make proper repairs including, where appropriate, evaluation/repairs of hidden damage. Some amount of hidden damage should be anticipated..
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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- BES-4 🏡BUILDING EXTERIOR & STRUCTURE:
EXTERIOR TRIM:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the trim of the home. There are conditions that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a qualified party. Any damaged materials should be replaced, repaired and maintained as deemed necessary.
WOOD TRIM:
- Conditions:
- 🔹gaps not caulked
- 🔹horizontal flashings improperly caulked
- Too close to:
- 🔹ground
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- G-1 🚘GARAGE:
GARAGE INTERIORS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the garage floor that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a qualified party and monitored annually. The pictures and notes below detail some of these concerns, but should not be construed to be a complete accounting of the issues.
INTERIORS:
- 🔹Wall between house and basement. Having the exposed wood, between the garage and basement interior spaces covered with drywall to improve fire safety is recommended. Fire-resistant materials on the walls and ceilings between the house and the garage have been required by building standards for a long time. Consult with drywall installation company regarding installation. Taping of all drywall seams is recommended.
- 🔹exposed, kraft-faced insulation
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- G-2 🚘GARAGE:
GARAGE/HOUSE DOOR:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the door between the house and the garage that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a qualified party. Some of the conditions will be documented below but should not be considered all inclusive.
GENERAL DOOR CONCERNS:
- Conditions:
- 🔹shows "distress" consistent with age
🔥FIRE RESISTANCE:
- 🔹the garage/house door does not meet current standards. The door should be a solid wood door not less than 1-3/8 inches thick, a solid or honeycomb-core steel door not less than 1-3/8 inches thick, or 20-minute fire-rated door. All doors between the house and the garage are required to have a self-closure device. It should also be weather-stripped at threshold, sides and top. Improper doors can allow fumes from the garage to enter the home.
- 🔹door should be replaced in conjunction with upgrading garage for fire safety.
- 🔹automatic closer device is not present
THRESHOLD/WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- Bottom of door weather-stripping:
- 🔹not installed
- Threshold weather-stripping:
- 🔹none Present
LOCKING MECHANISMS:
- 🔹Site-built slide lock
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- G-3 🚘GARAGE:
WEST GARAGE EXTERIOR DOOR CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the exterior doors of the home. All should be evaluated, repaired and maintained as deemed necessary by a qualified door installation contractor or other qualified party. Concerns will be documented in the pictures below but should not be construed to be all inclusive but instead more representative:
OUT SWING:
- Not security type hinges for out-swing type door. For improved security the hinges on this out-swing type door should be replaced with security-pin type hinges. This prevents removal of the pins from the exterior when the door is closed.
- Installed backwards--threshold slopes to the interior
HINGES:
- Hinge conditions:
- 🔹not security type hinges
LOCKSET & SECURITY:
- 🔹🚩Security pin enters strike plate. It is common in homes for the lock-set security pin to enter the strike plate hole. When this happens the door can be unlocked from the outside with a credit card (in-swing type) and from the outside with a knife (out-swing type). The strike plates should be adjusted toward the weather stripping to make the door more secure. Adjustments should be made so that the pin does not enter the strike plate when closed.
- 🔹latch can be "knifed" to gain entry. The door is not secure because latch can be "knifed" to gain entry, a dead-bolt would make a good improvement..
DEAD-BOLT:
- 🔹none present
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- G-4 🚘GARAGE:
EAST GARAGE EXTERIOR DOOR CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the exterior doors of the home. All should be evaluated, repaired and maintained as deemed necessary by a qualified door installation contractor or other qualified party. Concerns will be documented in the pictures below but should not be construed to be all inclusive but instead more representative:
OUT SWING:
- Not security type hinges for out-swing type door. For improved security the hinges on this out-swing type door should be replaced with security-pin type hinges. This prevents removal of the pins from the exterior when the door is closed.
STRUCTURE/SURFACE:
- 🔹Shows distress consistent with age. The door could benefit from upgrading for energy efficiency and safety. They had cosmetic as well as defects related to age and use. Replacement of the doors can improve overall energy efficiency of the home as well as improve security of the home. Until these doors can be replaced, maintain the door well painted and sealed to protect the home from damage from the elements.
- 🔹distress consistent with weathering/exposure
- 🔹some rot/decay in door
- 🔹steel clad type doors with bottom wood edges not sealed
- Steel clad type doors with bottom wood edges not sealed. Steel clad insulated doors have a wood frame behind the metal. This wood must be kept well sealed maintained especially along the bottom of the door to prevent damage from water that can splash against the jamb and weather-stripping and wick around the metal cladding and into the wood. This condition is exacerbated by draft-stop materials installed in the area that the edge of the door closes against. This is particularly problematic on doors exposed to the weather side of the home. Preventing this kind of damage on this type of door can be difficult. Other types of flashings and weather-stripping are available to minimize the chances of damage but keeping the area well painted and sealed should be considered the first line of defense. Once decay has begun it is likely the entire door will need to be replaced.
BOTTOM OF DOOR WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- 🔹weather-Stripping in poor condition
- 🔹loose/Not properly attached
THRESHOLD WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- 🔹none Present
HINGES:
- 🔹missing screws
LOCKSET & SECURITY:
- 🔹🚩Security pin enters strike plate. It is common in homes for the lock-set security pin to enter the strike plate hole. When this happens the door can be unlocked from the outside with a credit card (in-swing type) and from the outside with a knife (out-swing type). The strike plates should be adjusted toward the weather stripping to make the door more secure. Adjustments should be made so that the pin does not enter the strike plate when closed.
- 🔹latch can be "knifed" to gain entry. The door is not secure because latch can be "knifed" to gain entry, and installation of a dead-bolt is recommended..
DEAD-BOLT:
- 🔹none present
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- PLUMBING5-2 🚿PLUMBING:
FROST-FREE/ANTI-SIPHON OUTSIDE FAUCET:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the outside faucet that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber.
FROST-FREE ANTI-SIPHON:
- 🔹🚩Valve stem did NOT drain when test gauge removed indicative of improper slope and/or that the valve is not frost-free type. The frost-free type faucet at the north side of the home does not slope so that it can drain. I recommend evaluation/repairs by the licensed plumber or other qualified party to allow for proper function of the device (otherwise it is not frost-free). There are plastic shims available to create the proper slope.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor during use 🔍 Due Diligence
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- PLUMBING5-4 🚿PLUMBING:
GAS WATER HEATER:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the water heater that should be further evaluated, repaired and maintained as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber (or in some cases, repairs can be made by other qualified parties):
WATER HEATER CONDITIONS:
- ❌Approaching its expected life. The water heater at more than 10 years old is approaching the end of its useful life. I recommend factoring replacement of the heater by a licensed plumber in the near future.
GAS SHUT-OFF:
- 🔹older type of valve should be replaced in the context of the next water heater replacement
DRIP LEGS/SEDIMENT TRAPS:
- 🔹none present. Many appliances require sediment traps located as close to the appliance as practical. None is present on this appliance and I recommend evaluation/repairs as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber in the context of other plumbing repairs at the home.
B-VENT CHIMNEY:
- 🚩Missing insulation baffle in attic. The water heater vent has inadequate clearance to insulation in the attic. While this insulation might not be considered combustible, the concern is that it might reduce the ability of the vent to cool itself and conduct that heat through the insulation to materials that are combustible. A proper insulation baffle should be installed to provide the required 1" clearance to materials required for B-vent.
WATER TEMPERATURE:
- 🔹🚩Water temperature too hot likely inadequate supply. Given the number of bathrooms and other points of use of hot water, it is possible that the water heater will not be sufficient to provide an uninterrupted supply of hot water (this can vary widely depending on use and life-style). I recommend improving amounts of supply if, under daily use, there proves to be insufficient supply. Consult with a licensed plumber about possible options.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
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- E2-1 ⚡ELECTRICAL:
ELECTRICAL SERVICE TO PROPERTY:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Electrical Service to the property that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a licensed electrical contractor. Additional issues should be anticipated and uncovered during repairs.
LOW VOLTAGE UTILITY WIRES:
- 🔹improperly connected to electrical mast---should be removed
METER CONDITION:
- 🔹meter base not attached to house. The electric meter base is not well-secured to the house. Have this further investigated by the utility or an electrician and repaired as recommended to insure water does not get trapped behind the meter and to insure the meter base is well-secured.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
- E2-2 ⚡ELECTRICAL:
ELECTRICAL SERVICE EQUIPMENT:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the electrical service equipment that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by the licensed electrical contractor.
PANEL CONDITION:
- 🔹missing knock-outs--exposed energized components
- 🔹vermin activity in panel
- 🔹conduit from meter base not sealed
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
- E2-3 ⚡ELECTRICAL:
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM BONDING:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the bonding of metallic systems of a building. Bonding is important for electrical safety to keep grounded metal components at the same potential. I recommend all aspects of required bonding be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by the licensed electrical contractor. The items below, should be seen as a guide and not necessarily all inclusive but more representative.
YELLOW CSST:
- 🔹🚩not bonded with #6 copper minimum
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- E2-4 ⚡ELECTRICAL:
DETACHED BUILDING SUB-PANEL CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the Sub-Panel that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a licensed electrical contractor. They should not be construed to be all concerns that need to be addressed but more representative.
PANEL CONDITION:
- 🔹connector issues
- 🔹amperage on grounding conductor. This should be further evaluated by the licensed electrical contractor to both determine the cause and make necessary repairs.
🛑 SAFETY 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence
- E2-6 ⚡ELECTRICAL:
DISTRIBUTION WIRING CONCERNS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists and narratives related to the distribution wiring in the home that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by the licensed electrical contractor.
GENERAL CONCERNS:
- Junction Boxes.
- 🔹missing covers
- 🔹missing knockouts
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- E2-7 ⚡ELECTRICAL:
WIRING SUPPORT/PROTECTION:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists and narratives related to the wiring in the home that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a licensed electrical contractor. It should be seen as representative of the concerns and not all inclusive.
ATTIC WIRING:
- 🔹wiring not properly supported in Attic
- 🔹Improper use and installation of din rail
BASEMENT WIRING:
- 🔹not secured within 8" of plastic junction boxes is indicative of less than professional work
- 🔹abandoned wiring that should be removed and/or properly terminated
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- E2-8 ⚡ELECTRICAL:
RECEPTACLE OUTLET CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists and narratives related to the receptacles in the home:
RECEPTACLES GENERAL:
- 🔹some three prong receptacles tested as "ungrounded"
GFCI Receptacles
- 🔹some garage receptacles not GFCI protected (south end in removed stove location)
- 🔹missing at west side of garage
MISING RECEPTACLES/COVERS:
- 🔹at numerous locations, covers should be installed wherever found to be missing
- 🔹furniture often conceal missing covers
TAMPER RESISTANT RECEPTACLES:
- Tamper resistant receptacles missing. No tamper-resistant receptacles were noted in the home. Electrical permits drawn after June 6, 2009 would likely require this type of receptacle throughout the home.
WEATHER RESISTANT RECEPTACLES:
- Weather resistant receptacles missing. No tamper-resistant receptacles were noted in the home. Electrical permits drawn after June 6, 2009 would likely require this type of receptacle throughout the home.
I recommend evaluation and repairs by a licensed electrical contractor. Other similar conditions should be anticipated.
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- E2-9 ⚡ELECTRICAL:
LIGHTING OUTLET CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the lighting components in the home including:
FIXTURES:
- 🔹cotton pull chains
- 🔹missing fixtures
PORCELAIN BULB HOLDERS:
- 🔹several basement locations
SWITCHES:
- 🔹missing cover plates
- 🔹other missing covers should be anticipated and installed wherever found missing
EXTERIOR LIGHTS:
- 🔹broken fixtures
- 🔹missing fixtures
- Missing at exterior at:
- 🔹doors at east side of garage which can be a safety hazard approaching or leaving the garage in the dark. All doors with access to grade are required to be illuminated at the exterior. Proper lighting should be installed
- Function not determined at:
- 🔹some locations
While the pictures below document some of these concerns, I recommend all lighting locations be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a licensed electrical contractor.
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- ED4-1 🚪EXTERIOR DOORS:
FRONT ENTRYWAY DOOR CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the exterior doors of the home. All should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a qualified door installation contractor or other qualified party.
LOCKSET & SECURITY:
- 🔹🚩security pin enters strike plate. It is common in homes for the lock-set security pin to enter the strike plate hole. When this happens the door can be unlocked from the outside with a credit card (in-swing type) and from the outside with a knife (out-swing type). The strike plates should be adjusted toward the weather stripping to make the door more secure. Adjustments should be made so that the pin does not enter the strike plate when closed.
- 🔹latch can be "credit carded" because it is type of latch with no security pin. The door is not secure because latch can be "credit-carded" to gain entry if dead-bolt is not used.
Concerns will be documented in the pictures below but should not be construed to be all inclusive but instead more representative:
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- ED4-2 🚪EXTERIOR DOORS:
NORTH ENTRYWAY DOOR CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the exterior doors of the home. All should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a qualified door installation contractor or other qualified party.
OUT SWING:
- 🔹🚩not security type hinges for out-swing type door. For improved security the hinges on this out-swing type door should be replaced with security-pin type hinges. This prevents removal of the pins from the exterior when the door is closed.
HINGES:
- 🔹not security type hinges
- 🔹missing screws
LOCKSET & SECURITY:
- 🔹🚩security pin enters strike plate. It is common in homes for the lock-set security pin to enter the strike plate hole. When this happens the door can be unlocked from the outside with a credit card (in-swing type) and from the outside with a knife (out-swing type). The strike plates should be adjusted toward the weather stripping to make the door more secure. Adjustments should be made so that the pin does not enter the strike plate when closed.
- 🔹latch can be "knifed" to gain entry if dead-bolt is not used. The door is not secure because latch can be "knifed" to gain entry if dead-bolt is not used..
Concerns will be documented in the pictures below but should not be construed to be all inclusive but instead more representative:
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- I9-1 🖼️INTERIORS:
BUILDING INTERIORS:
Concerns noted below related to the interior spaces of the home should be evaluated and repaired and repaired as deemed necessary by the appropriate qualified party.
GENERAL INFORMATION:
- 🌳Building Performance Professional recommended. This building could greatly benefit from a full evaluation by a qualified Building Performance Professional, to determine how best to address air quality issues as well as improvements for overall energy efficiency.
- 🔹some baseboard not complete, finish as desired
- 🔹🚩Evidence of heavy smoking. Throughout the interior smells of heavy use of tobacco were noted. Toxic residues from smoking can permeate walls and building materials and heating system ductwork and can be extremely difficult to seal/clean--sometimes requiring removal/replacement of affected materials. Consult with qualified painting contractor as to best options--including proper clean-up/removal.
HABITABILITY/EGRESS:
- 🔹ceiling height less than 6'-8" in basement non-habitable areas
- 🔹non conforming basement spaces. None of the basement spaces are included in this report as "habitable spaces" but some aspects have been reported on throughout the report. It is strongly recommended that if any of these spaces, including the kitchen area, bathroom area and defined rooms are to used for anything more than storage spaces that they be improved to meet the requirements of those spaces. Insufficient headroom is likely the biggest obstacle to use of the basement space for many uses.
ESCAPE & RESCUE:
- 🔹no second means of egress or escape and rescue from basement space
INTERIOR MOISTURE CONCERNS:
- 🔹walls, previous condition that should be monitored
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor (ongoing) 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
- S5-1 Stairs:
BASEMENT STAIR CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the stairs that indicate the need for evaluation and repairs by a qualified stair installation contractor. I recommend such work prior to use of the stairs.
STAIR GENERAL INFORMATION:
- 🔹Poor basement stairs. It is common for stairs to the basement to be of lower quality than stairs in finished areas of the home. Improper side barriers, handrails, tread spacings, head room etc. Changes to these stairs for safety may be warranted but often times adjustments are difficult and/or expensive.
HANDRAILS:
- 🚩Handrail does not conform to current safety standards. Proper handrails on stairs can promote safe use of the stairs and prevent falls that can result in serious injury or even death. Handrails are required to meet specific guidelines on all stairs with 4 risers or more. In some cases they are prudent on stairs with fewer risers. The handrail is required to be graspable as defined in the building codes. The following concerns should be addressed by a qualified party:
- 🔹does not return to wall at top and bottom of railing
- 🔹does not extend all the way from top riser to bottom riser. Handrails are required to run the full length of the stairs from a point vertical above the top riser and bottom riser.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
- F7-1 🔥Fireplaces:
FREE-STANDING STOVE CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the free-standing stove that should be evaluated as deemed necessary by a qualified fireplace installation contractor. Information about the chimney it is connected to can be found in the chimney section of the roofing chapter.
FREE-STANDING STOVE:
- Function not determined and it should not be used until inspected and verified as safe
- Installation not complete---verify proper completion of installation
VENTING:
- Not installed, unit must not be operated
- 🔹abandoned vent for removed gas fireplace in the bedroom can be removed as desired, and roof patched as necessary.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- K3-3 🥧Kitchen:
RANGE/COOKTOP:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the cooktop:
CONCERNS:
- Anti-Tipping Device:
- 🔹NOT Installed/Is necessary
INSTALLATION/TESTING:
- No re-ignition feature. Many modern gas ranges have auto-relight functions for the burners. In the event that a gust of wind were to blow out the flame--especially when adjusted to low--the re-light function allows the burner to re-light itself for safety. This particular unit does not appear to have that function and no determination is made as to whether it can be added or not. Upgrade/modify as desired.
- 🔹did not re-light with flame blown out
I recommend evaluation and repair by a qualified party.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
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- K3-4 🥧Kitchen:
MICROWAVE/HOOD:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the Microwave and exhaust fan:
DUCTWORK:
- 🔹NOT insulated
VENT TERMINATION:
- 🔹missing. There is no screen installed as required on the cooktop exhaust fan/hood at the east exterior of the home. I do not like screens on this location but they are required. If one is going to be installed it would be better to install it on the outside of the damper. They are prone to clogging with lint/grease over time. Maintenance is necessary regardless.
- Damper:
- 🔹does not close tight
- 🔹mechanical damage to cap
I recommend evaluation and repair as deemed necessary by a qualified party.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- MB-1 🛀Main Bathroom:
TOILET CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists and narratives related to the toilet in the main bathroom that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber or other qualified party.
TANK:
- 🔹water level too high. The toilet tank water level in the main bathroom is too high allowing the water to run continuously. This can waste considerable water.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
- MB-2 🛀Main Bathroom:
EXHAUST FANS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists and narratives related to the laundry exhaust fan:
COMPONENTS/CONDITION/FUNCTION:
- 🚩Insulation baffle missing. When the insulation baffle is not present it should be verified that units with heating components are rated to be in contact with insulation and if not, a proper separation should be installed or the fan should be upgraded for improved safety and energy efficiency. Before the additional insulation is added to the attic it should be verified a proper baffle is installed or that the unit is rated for insulation contact.
VENT TERMINATION:
- Exhaust improperly terminated:
- 🔹damper missing--all exhaust vent caps require a damper for energy efficiency. Without a damper, the damper in the unit will open when the house is under negative pressure, resulting in air bypassing the damper.
I recommend evaluation and repairs as deemed necessary by a qualified party.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- L1-1 🧺Laundry:
DRYER CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the dryer that should be addressed by a qualified party.
TRANSITION DUCT:
- 🔹🚩Foil flexible duct. Most flexible metal foil type dryer transition duct is considered less desirable and not allowed by most manufacturers, even if it meets UL 2158A, Class 0, requirements. If your dryer is connected with this type of vent pipe I recommend replacement of the pipe with smooth wall metal type pipe or approved flexible metal type pipe. This foil type pipe is considered a fire hazard.
VENT TERMINATION:
- 🚩"Cage" type vent cap. The vent cap for the dryer has a cage type cover. These cages tend to plug with lint. I recommend removal of the cage to allow for better flow of air out of the vent. Maintaining these vents free of lint should be done on a monthly basis until the necessity for less frequent cleaning can be determined. Clogged dryer vents, besides being a fire hazard, can result in longer drying times.
- 🔹single flap type cap (with "cage" type cover)
- 🔹cap stuck in open position. The dryer vent cap is stuck in the open position. This can allow vermin entry into the vent and allows allows cold air to be drawn into the vent when the house is under negative pressure. Oftentimes, when one opens the dryer in the winter and it is VERY cold inside the dryer, this can be an indication the vent is stuck open. The cap should be inspected monthly to verify it is functioning properly and maintained properly.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
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Repair and/or Maintenance Items
- G3-4 ⛺GROUNDS:
PATIO CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the patio.
CONCRETE PATIO:
- 🔹very flat
DRAINAGE:
- 🔹ability of patio to drain away water not determined
- 🔹poorly drained--very flat
- 🔹ponding should be anticipated
I recommend evaluation by a qualified party as deemed necessary.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- G3-5 ⛺GROUNDS:
PROPERTY WALKWAYS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Property Walkways. There were numerous conditions with the concrete property walkways that should be evaluated, repaired and maintained by a qualified party. Some areas merely need monitoring and maintenance typical of any walkway. Maintenance of these walkways is typically the responsibility of the property owner and defects such as trip hazards and the presence of snow/ice can lead to increased liability if persons are injured. The following conditions were noted to the walkway:
PROPERTY CONCRETE WALKWAYS:
- Surface Conditions:
- 🔹settlement
- 🔹displacement
- 🔹cracks
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- BES-1 🏡BUILDING EXTERIOR & STRUCTURE:
THE BUILDING EXTERIOR HAS THE FOLLOWING CONCERNS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Building's Exterior. The following concerns should be evaluated, repaired, replaced and improved by a qualified party as deemed necessary. Hidden damage in exterior cladding is common and should be anticipated.
EXTERIOR CONDITION:
- 🔹inadequate clearances to finish grade
- 🔹mechanical damage
- 🔹missing components
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (annual) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
- BES-3 🏡BUILDING EXTERIOR & STRUCTURE:
CEDAR SHINGLE SIDING:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Cedar Shingle Siding. Siding protects the home from the elements and requires ongoing maintenance. Sometimes there are enough issues that entire replacement is warranted. The following issues were noted:
CONCERNS:
- Siding installation conditions:
- 🔹much over-painting and poor prep--replace as desired
I recommend evaluation by a qualified siding contractor to determine what repairs are necessary and to make proper repairs including, where appropriate, evaluation/repairs of hidden damage
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- BES-5 🏡BUILDING EXTERIOR & STRUCTURE:
FLASHINGS RELATED TO EXTERIOR CLADDING:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Exterior Cladding. Proper flashings of exterior cladding is critical to keep moisture out of the structure. The following conditions were noted and should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a qualified party. Hidden damage should be anticipated.
FLASHINGS:
- 🔹Missing/Inadequate. This can lead to water penetration behind the siding and can lead to water penetration of the house sheathing at these locations. Repairs would likely prove difficult but repairs may become necessary in time--this is especially true in areas that are not well protected by overhangs on the South and West sides of the home. Hidden damage is common, with at least the trim boards. I recommend monitoring and repairs later when it becomes necessary or that proper flashings be installed now by a qualified siding contractor to avoid perhaps more costly repairs later. In the context of repainting the home you might want to consider having proper flashings installed. If flashings are not installed it will be necessary to be vigilant about keeping the connections well caulked and sealed to prevent water intrusion. The big drawback to caulking these connections as opposed to proper flashings is that water that finds its way behind the trim where it becomes trapped and promotes hidden decay/rot. These flashings are obviously less critical in areas well protected by overhangs. While a common installation practice with cement board siding it is still not best practice.
- Missing locations:
- 🔹head flashings
- 🔹crawl space vents
- 🔹These flashings are obviously less critical in areas well protected by overhangs.
🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- SE-1 SE Entryway:
FRONT ENTRYWAY STOOP:
The deck structure had numerous issues and no attempt to document all these issues will be made in this report. The bulleted lists and narratives related to the information and pictures below should be seen as more representative as opposed to all inclusive and other concerns should be anticipated. Concerns were noted in relation to:
GENERAL INFORMATION:
- There were issues with:
- 🔹the structure
HANDRAILS:
- 🔹not present
MASONRY:
- 🔹🚩concrete covers untreated wood structures (rim joist). This is very common in older construction and hidden damage is common and should be anticipated. This is one of those things where repairs/improvements might be better left until obvious damage becomes apparent. Frequent monitoring is advised and any water intrusion/staining noted in adjacent finished areas would warrant immediate invasive evaluation.
- 🔹settlement. It may be possible to have the stoop slab-jacked (lifted) into place by a qualified jacking company.
- 🔹Inadequate clearances between siding and walking surface. Moisture damage can occur over time. Proper clearances should be created and/or vigilantly maintained. Proper flashings behind the siding to the stoop surface should be installed
SURFACE DRAINAGE:
- 🔹slopes toward home
- 🔹more than 1/4" per foot for landing
- 🔹improper drainage
Notes, and maintenance documentation/details about the deck, will be detailed in the pertinent sections below this narrative.
The following pictures with descriptions are meant to convey the necessity for a full evaluation/repair or possibly even replacement of the structure by a qualified deck installation/repair contractor as deemed necessary. The recommended minimum standards can be found in the American Wood Council's Prescriptive Wood Residential Deck Construction Guide. This guide is also known as "DCA-6." Another great reference, even though a little ahead of requirements in most jurisdictions and not free, Deck Construction Based on the 2021 IRC. I recommend evaluation, repairs and replacement by a qualified deck construction contractor.
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- G-5 🚘GARAGE:
GARAGE OVERHEAD DOOR:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the door installation:
TESTING:
- Not tested
MANUAL OPERATION/DOOR BALANCE:
- Not opened
DASMA TESTING:
- Stopping points:
- 🔹due to vehicles in garage. When there are automobiles in the garage at the time of inspection the auto-reversing functions of the door are not tested because of possible damage to the vehicles if testing were to result in collapse of the door. I recommend that all reversing functions be properly tested---see testing instructions in the Notes and Information portion of the report---and the testing procedures attached to
A qualified overhead door installation contractor should evaluate and repair the door as deemed necessary and then the opener device should be fully tested per DASMA protocols.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
- G-6 🚘GARAGE:
GARAGE OVERHEAD DOOR AUTOMATIC OPENER:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the automatic opener that should be addressed.
CONDITIONS:
- 🚩Automatic Opener Prior to 1982. Due to the age of this overhead door automatic opener may not be equipped with an auto-reversing mechanism. Auto-reversing mechanisms were not required prior to 1982 (although some manufacturers started installing them in the early 1970's). Automatic door openers that do not have reversing functions or where it cannot be determined at the time of inspection that it has reversing function, are not tested. Upgrading non-reversing type door openers or openers without sensor beams is recommended.
MANUAL LOCKING MECHANISM:
- Manual lock still functional. When garage doors have automatic opening devices, the Manual Lock Mechanism should be disabled/removed. This represents a serious safety issue as the opener can tear away from its attachments or force the door out of its tracks causing injury and damage to persons and property. I recommend that a qualified garage door company be contacted to remove/disable this mechanism as required.
TESTING:
- Not tested
WARNING LABELS:
- Warning label at opener button:
- 🔹label missing
- 🔹NOT Present consistent with age of opener (pre-1990)
REMOTE CONTROL:
- None seen--I recommend asking seller
PHOTO-SENSOR REVERSAL:
- 🔹not present--consistent with age of opener
2x4 REVERSAL:
- Not tested:
- 🔹vehicles in garage. When there are vehicles in the garage at the time of inspection the auto-reversing functions of the door are not tested because of possible damage to the vehicle if testing were to result in collapse of the door. I recommend that all reversing functions be properly tested--see testing instructions in the Notes and Information portion of the report
I recommend evaluation, repairs and maintenance by a qualified overhead door installation company or other qualified party.
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- R5-2 ROOF:
DIMENSIONAL SHINGLE CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the roof surface that should be evaluated, repaired and maintained by a qualified roofing contractor as deemed necessary. The pictures below document some of the concerns related to this roof and should not be construed to mean there are no other conditions that need to be addressed. Hidden damage is common with roofs. I recommend factoring replacement of the roof within 3 years.
GENERAL CONDITIONS:
- Conditions:
- 🔹considerable failure of seal-down strips
UNDERLAYMENT:
- 🔹visible at eaves
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence 🐞 WDO’s
- R5-3 ROOF:
METAL ROOF CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the roof surface that should be evaluated, repaired and maintained by a qualified roofing contractor as deemed necessary. The pictures below document some of the concerns related to this roof and should not be construed to mean there are no other conditions that need to be addressed. Hidden damage is common with roofs. I recommend factoring replacement of the roof within 3 years.
METAL ROOF CONCERNS:
- 🔹at ridge there is a gap of unknown purpose. This should be evaluated as to whether it is adequate to keep wind driven rain out of the structure.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence 🐞 WDO’s
- R5-4 ROOF:
FLASHINGS RELATED TO THE ROOF:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the roof flashings.
EAVE FLASHINGS:
- 🔹eave flashings NOT present/roofing materials overhanging gutters--consistent with age of roof. Modern roof installations (installed after July 1st 2014) are required to have metal flashings installed along the eaves of the roof. They are not present on this roof consistent with installation prior to that date. Damage to the edge of the sheathing is common and some amount of repairs should be anticipated when the roof is replaced. It likely would not be considered practical to install these flashings prior to roof replacement.
DISH ANTENNA:
- 🔹attached to roof through surface of shingles. The satellite dish is mounted directly over the roof shingles. No determination could be made as to how of if sealing of this attachment was done. Improper sealing of these attachments can lead to damage to the roof structure. Maintaining seals on these connections is I recommended. Relocation to a type of bracket that doesn't penetrate the roof covering is a better solution.
- 🔹will need routine maintenance of seals to keep water out of roof
- 🔹hidden damage with these installations is common--relocating to side wall is recommended
The pictures below document some of the issues and a full evaluation and repairs of these conditions by a qualified roofing contractor is recommended.
🚩CAUTIONS:
- These repairs should be done as soon as possible to prevent water damage to underlying structures.
- Hidden damage should be anticipated.
- Repairs to any of these flashing details should always include evaluation and repair of any covered structures.
🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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- W-1 🪟 WINDOWS:
WINDOW CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the windows of the home. I recommend further evaluation, repairs and improvements of these conditions by a qualified window installation/repair contractor.
RECENT REPLACEMENT:
- 🔹recent installation--methods of installation not determined. The windows have been replaced relatively recently. It is not possible to determine methods or appropriateness of some replacement installations and problems with improper flashing details are common---especially on windows with more exposure to the elements. Areas around the interiors of the windows should be monitored for staining and/or water intrusion and further evaluation may be necessary if these conditions are noted. Usually installations where there is actually wood trim wrapping around the window on the exterior are less problematic.
EXTERIOR WINDOW SILLS:
- 🔹painted-over deterioration/weathering typical of windows in homes this age
VINYL WINDOWS:
- 🔹failed thermal seals
- 🔹failing desiccant
WOOD SINGLE PANE:
- The windows in the home are older style (original) single pane wood windows. The following conditions below were noted. I recommend factoring replacement of all of the windows in the home by a qualified window installation company. All of these windows should be properly maintained until they can be replaced. Window replacement should include evaluation/repair/replacement of trim/sills and related components as well.
- 🔹broken sash components
- 🔹painted shut,
- 🔹poor/missing glazing
- 🔹cracked glass,
Some of the issues will be documented in the pictures below but should not be construed to be all inclusive but instead more representative.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔨Repair 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- K3-2 🥧Kitchen:
DISHWASHER:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the dishwasher that should be addressed by a qualified appliance installation company, plumber, or other qualified party.
AIR GAP:
- 🔹Air-Gap device missing / but "High Loop" is present
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
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Maintenance Items
- G3-3 ⛺GROUNDS:
VEGETATION IMPACTING BUILDING/PROPERTY:
There was vegetation at the south side of the home that was too close to the home. All vegetation should be maintained away from the home at least 12 inches. Vegetation too close to the home can create a pathway to the home for moisture, insects and vermin. Inspection of some components of the home was limited by the proximity of vegetation to the home and further evaluation may be warranted when the vegetation is cleared away and some amount of damage should be anticipated. I recommend evaluation and maintenance by a qualified party.
NOTED CONDITIONS:
- 🔹vegetation too close to the building at front entryway stoop
🛑 Safety, 🔨Repair, 🔧 Maintenance, 👁🗨 Monitor annually, 🐞 WDO’s, ➕ Upgrade and 🔍 Due Diligence
- R5-1 ROOF:
ROOF GENERAL CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the roof. I recommend evaluation, repairs and maintenance of the roof by a qualified roofing contractor. Conditions related to specific types of roof coverings will be discussed below. The conditions should not be construed to be all inclusive but instead more representative:
MOSS/LICHEN/ALGAE:
- 🔹Moss growth, preventing evaluation
- 🔹Enough moss growth to limit inspection of surface in areas. The roof has enough growth to limit inspection of the surface. I recommend the roof be professionally cleaned by a qualified party. Air or Water pressure washing is not recommended. After cleaning I recommend I be called back to evaluate the condition of the roof.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- HC-3 🔥HEATING / ❄️COOLING:
HIGH EFFICIENCY GAS FURNACE SERVICING:
I recommend servicing of the furnace prior to the next heating season. Servicing should include cleaning of the interior of the furnace compartment, inspecting the furnace venting system, and evaluation for carbon monoxide, in conjunction with all other normal servicing aspects performed by the qualified heating contractor., conditions not noted at the time of inspection should be anticipated, especially with older units, furnaces this age should be serviced annually and It is my opinion that this furnace should be replaced due to age and inefficiency.
List of the "minimum" inspection items to be expected of furnace servicing:
1. Inspect heat exchanger.
2. Inspect and operate heating controls, and calibrate thermostat as deemed necessary.
3. Check ignitor & clean pilot orifice, adjust flame.
4. Check and adjust main burners for proper combustion
5. Inspect and operate furnace safety devices.
6. Check draft and vent or motor assembly.
7. Inspect drive-sheaves, pulleys, and belts. Adjust tension.
8. Lubricate all motors and shaft bearings.
9. Change and/or clean filters.
10. Clean interiors of all heating equipment interior compartments.
11. Inspect all of the venting system, including sections in attic spaces and above the roof.
12. Check and adjust air-flow, and temperature differential
13. Check unit smoke detector, clean filter--if applicable
14. Inspect piping and valves for gas leaks.
This list is meant to be "suggestive" of necessary repairs and not a "prescriptive" list of how to do it. Many appliances have other necessary maintenance requirements and protocols. This list also includes items that may not be applicable with this heating system. It is intended to inform all parties as to why professional evaluation/inspection is necessary.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Efficiency & IAQ Items
- HC-4 🔥HEATING / ❄️COOLING:
WHOLE BUILDING AIR CHANGE SYSTEM:
Modern homes require a means of changing the air in the home in a controlled manor since 1991. The following conditions related to these requirements were noted and repairs and improvements should be made by a qualified party.
AIR CHANGE SYSTEM:
- 🔹missing in Remodeled homes. At the time the home was remodeled (unless prior to 1991), some method of whole house ventilation would have been required. Lack of installation may be an oversight or be an indication of work being done without permits. I recommend further evaluation as desired. Sometimes these are incorporated on timers installed on bathroom or laundry room exhaust fans. It is possible I missed the timer location or it was hidden. Whole-house air exchangers for cool climates helps reduce excess moisture problems -- like condensation on windows -- that contribute to Mold/Fungal Growth. This is especially true of HRV's that also filter the air as well. It’s the same principle as using your bathroom exhaust fan to remove moisture created by running the shower.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ
- L1-2 🧺Laundry:
EXHAUST FANS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists and narratives related to the laundry exhaust fan:
COMPONENTS/CONDITION/FUNCTION:
- 🚩Fan missing. All laundries should have exhaust fans to the exterior for operation during use of the washer and dryer.
I recommend evaluation and repairs as deemed necessary by a qualified party.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Due Diligence Items
- HC-1 🔥HEATING / ❄️COOLING:
UNDERGROUND TANKS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Underground Oil Tank. There was evidence of an underground tank on the property. These tanks can represent pollution hazards as well as collapse hazards. They should be evaluated and removed/replaced/filled by a qualified party as necessary/required.
EXISTING OIL TANK:
- 🔹no evidence seen but suspected. While no evidence of a past oil heating system was noted, the home is of an age where oil heating would have been likely. I recommend further evaluation as to whether there is a tank on the property and verification that any found tanks have been properly removed or decommissioned.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Improvement Items
- BF-1 🧱BASEMENT Foundation:
BASEMENT CONCERNS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Foundation. The foundation has significant and multiple issues. I recommend that a qualified foundation contractor, who utilizes the services of a licensed structural engineer to design any repairs deemed necessary, be consulted to determine the necessity for repairs, to estimate costs and perform repairs and improvements deemed necessary.
FOUNDATION CONCERNS:
- 🔹cracks
FOUNDATION CONDITIONS:
- 🔹past leaks
EFFLORESCENCE/HONEYCOMBING:
- 🔹localized
SILL PLATE:
- 🔹NON-treated foundation sill plate
ANCHORS:
- 🔹lack of attachment to the foundation is typical of age and type of construction.
WINDOW WELLS:
- 🔹window wells missing. The basement windows are too close to the ground at the exterior and could benefit from installation of proper window wells to prevent damage to the window sills and other components. I recommend installation of window wells by a qualified party. Some amount of hidden damage should be anticipated and repaired as deemed necessary.
FLOOR FRAMING:
- 🔹generally floor joists undersized by current standards but additional mid span supports help offset this under sizing
🔥FIRE BLOCKING/DRAFT STOPPING:
- 🔹Wiring holes from lower spaces to upper spaces (through sill plates etc) not caulked/sealed--typical of age and type of construction
- 🔹Plumbing Pipes from lower spaces to upper spaces (through sill plates etc) not caulked/sealed --typical of age and type of construction
- 🔹B-Vent Pipes from lower spaces to upper spaces (through sill plates etc) not fire-stopped
- 🔹Opening from basement space around tub drain--typical of age and type of construction
SUPPORT BEAMS:
- 🔹improperly supported beams
- 🔹over-spanned beams
WOOD JOISTS:
- 🔹improper notches in joists. Per modern requirements there are improper holes in the joists at _____. I recommend evaluation/repairs as deemed necessary by a qualified framing contractor or other qualified party. Sometimes repairs to this condition require the services of a licensed structural engineer.
RIM JOIST INSULATION:
- 🔹none. The rim joists around the perimeter of the basement are not properly insulated. This can make floors in the room above very cold and wastes energy.
WALL SURFACE INSULATION:
- 🔹none
The pictures below should be considered representative of the issues and is not meant to be all inclusive. Other issues should be anticipated.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- SCSF1-1 🧱SOUTH CRAWL SPACE Foundation:
SOUTH CRAWL SPACE CONCERNS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Foundation. The foundation has failed. I recommend that a qualified foundation contractor, who utilizes the services of a licensed structural engineer to design any repairs deemed necessary, be consulted to determine the necessity for repairs, to estimate costs and perform repairs and improvements deemed necessary.
SILL PLATE:
- 🔹NON-treated foundation sill plate--typical of age and type of construction.
ANCHORS:
- 🔹lack of attachment to the foundation is typical of age and type of construction.
- Not visible/not determined
- 🔹due to insulation and/or methods of construction
CRAWL SPACE ACCESS:
- Access opening wrong size (minimum size is 18"x24"). The access opening to the crawl space is the wrong size and difficult to access for proper inspection/maintenance of the crawl space.
- 🔹Less than 18" x 24"
- 🔹NOT traversed
- 🔹Viewed from opening due to small size, space should be further evaluated by a qualified party
ACCESS SEALING/INSULATION:
- 🔹insulation/Weather-Stripping missing / but recommended. When the crawl space access is from heated spaces the access door is required by current standards to be insulated and weather-stripped for improved energy efficiency. The interior of the home is under negative pressure in relation to the crawl space and large amounts of crawl space air can be drawn into the home.
FLOOR FRAMING:
- 🔹generally floor joists undersized by current standards. Improvements may be warranted.
VAPOR RETARDER:
- 🔹displacement noted (bare ground exposed)
VENTILATION:
- 🔹improvements to ventilation necessary
- Vent locations covered over on exterior
INSULATION:
- Insulation not in "permanent contact" with sub-floor. Modern insulation requirements call for floor insulation to be installed in permanent contact with the sub-floor decking. The current installation is installed such that the insulation is entirely flush with the bottom of the floor joists leaving a uniform gap above the insulation of approximately _____ inches--not in contact with the sub-floor in all areas checked.
CEILING CAVITY INSULATION:
- 🔹vapor Barrier on Wrong Side
- 🔹displacement of insulation noted
The pictures below should be considered representative of the issues and is not meant to be all inclusive. Other issues should be anticipated.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
- CSFUL-1 🧱CRAWL SPACE FOUNDATION Under Laundry:
LAUNDRY CRAWL SPACE CONCERNS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Foundation. The foundation has failed. I recommend that a qualified foundation contractor, who utilizes the services of a licensed structural engineer to design any repairs deemed necessary, be consulted to determine the necessity for repairs, to estimate costs and perform repairs and improvements deemed necessary.
ANCHORS:
- Not visible/not determined
CRAWL SPACE ACCESS:
- 🔹NOT traversed, viewed from opening only
VENTILATION:
- 🔹improvements to ventilation necessary
- 🔹seasonal vent covers. These vent covers are often installed in the winter when (in the Northwest) they are needed to be open to help control crawl space humidity levels.
- Vent locations covered over on exterior
- 🔹deck installation
CEILING CAVITY INSULATION:
- 🔹none
The pictures below should be considered representative of the issues and is not meant to be all inclusive. Other issues should be anticipated.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
- R5-5 ROOF:
MAIN ATTIC CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the roof and attic components that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a qualified party.
ACCESS DOOR:
- 🔹cover does not seat/seal properly
ACCESS INSULATION/WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- Weather-stripping:
- 🔹missing
- Insulation:
- 🔹missing
ATTIC ROOF INSULATION:
- 🔹compacted
- 🔹minimal present, adding insulation is recommended
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
- PLUMBING5-1 🚿PLUMBING:
INTERIOR SUPPLY PLUMBING:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the Water Supply Plumbing. The below conditions should be evaluated, repaired and maintained as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber.
WATER SUPPLY PIPING:
- 🔹Dead legs present. The abandoned dead-end pipes near the electrical panel has resulted in "dead legs." Dead legs are extensions or dead ends in the pipe where water can enter and no longer circulate with the rest of the house water supply. Such a "dead-end" is any pipe length greater than 2 pipe diameters. This can result in harmful bacteria growth in the pipes and all such extensions or dead ends should be removed from the active water supply system in the home. Current requirements are that draining of these dead legs be possible. I do not think this is practical and they should be eliminated.
COPPER PIPE:
- 🔹Repairs made with plastic pipe and continuity of electrical bonding is compromised
- 🚩Possibility of pipes with Leaded Solder. The information immediately below regarding copper piping can be ignored if it can be determined that the piping was replaced after 1986 (typically). Into the late 1980's copper pipe connections were soldered with solder containing some lead. Most water supplies are not considered corrosive enough (either too acidic or too alkaline) to release the lead into the water so as to pose a health risk. Only testing of the water by an EPA certified lab can determine the presence of lead. Lead is a known health hazard, especially for children. Laws were passed in 1985 prohibiting the use of lead in solder, but prior to that solder normally contained lead. Evaluating for the presence of lead in this structure is not included in this inspection. The client (s) should consider having a qualified lab test for lead, and if necessary take steps to reduce or remove lead from the water supply, including:
- 1. Flush water taps or faucets. Do not drink water that has been sitting in the plumbing lines for more than six hours.
- 2. Install appropriate filters at points of use.
- 3. Use only cold water for cooking and drinking. Hot water dissolves lead more quickly than cold water.
- 4. Use bottled or distilled water.
- 5. Treat well water to make it less corrosive.
- 6. Replace plumbing pipes
- Additional information can be found at: http://www.epa.gov/safewater/lead/index.html
- 🔹I can have the water tested for an additional fee if desired.
GALVANIZED PIPE:
- 🔹percentages of galvanized piping in the home could not be determined due to finish surfaces
PEX PIPE:
- 🔹piping exposed to sunlight/daylight.
- 🔹interior spaces
INSULATION BASEMENT SPACE HOT:
- 🔹not insulated
There is a pipe visible in the south crawl space that appears to run to the exterior at the sw corner but does not show at the exterior. This should be further evaluated and removed back to the tee if no longer in use or a proper valve installed perhaps.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (annual) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
- E2-5 ⚡ELECTRICAL:
MULTI-WIRE BRANCH CIRCUIT CONCERNS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists and narratives related to the Multi-wire Branch Circuits in the home that should be evaluated and repaired by the licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs at the building.
MWBC's
- 🔹handle ties not present--not required at time of construction but is recommended to conform with current standards. There are multi-wire circuits in the building. Multi wire circuits are wires that "share" a neutral conductor back to the Service panel. When this is done care must be taken to ensure that the two hot conductors end up on separate bus bars at the Service panel. It is also critical with these multi-wire circuits that the neutral be continuous by any devices it needs to be attached to throughout the circuits. This is not possible to confirm in the course of a Standard Home Inspection and could be checked by a licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs. Current requirements call for handle ties to be installed on the two breakers for each circuit to ensure that if one circuit is shut down, both will be de-energized.
🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
- E2-10 ⚡ELECTRICAL:
GFCI PROTECTION CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the kitchen, garage and basement GFCI's. The pictures and bulleted list below document some of those concerns, but not likely all of them. I recommend evaluation and repairs by the licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs at the home. Noted concerns include;
KITCHEN GFCI LOCATIONS:
- 🔹some located Kitchen Receptacles tested as GFCI protected
WITHIN 6' OF SINKS:
- 🔹receptacles under sink not GFCI protected
DISHWASHER:
- 🔹not GFCI protected as currently required. The dishwasher circuit is not GFCI protected as currently required. Depending on how the washer is wired, GFCI protection can either be provided at the unit itself or at the circuit breaker in the electrical panel.
LAUNDRY:
- No GFCI protected receptacles in Laundry area at. Modern standards required GFCI protection of all receptacles in laundry rooms. At the time of inspection there was no GFCI protection at the following locations:
- 🔹washing machine
- 🔹120 volt receptacle
GARAGE:
- Some Garage Receptacles that were tested, tested as NOT GFCI protected. Current requirements call for ALL 120 volt 15 amp and 20 amp receptacles in the garage be GFCI protected. Upgrading to current standards is recommended for improved safety. Some of the Garage receptacles are not GFCI protected at the following locations:
- 🔹receptacles
- 🔹automatic door opener
EXTERIOR/MISCELLANEOUS:
- 🔹weather resistant type receptacles not present
- 🔹no in-use covers in wet areas. The outside receptacle at the _____ side of the garage does not have a proper weather tight "in-use" type cover as currently required.
FINISHED/UNFINISHED BASEMENT:
- 🔹basement receptacles tested as NOT GFCI protected--not required at time of construction but upgrading is recommended. The receptacles in the basement space were not GFCI protected. Modern requirements call for GFCI protection of ALL receptacles in basement spaces whether finished or not and includes all 125 volt and 250 volt receptacles.
BATHROOMS:
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- E2-11 ⚡ELECTRICAL:
LIGHTING OUTLET AFCI:
The AFCI protection of the home had the following concerns. The pictures and bulleted list below document some of those concerns, but not likely all of them. I recommend evaluation and repairs by the licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs at the home.
LIGHTING OUTLETS:
- 🔹light outlets NOT AFCI protected. Modern requirements for AFCI protection of lighting outlets in homes covers many locations. In this home none of the lighting outlets tested as AFCI protected, as a fire-safety upgrade,
RECEPTACLES & OTHER OUTLETS NOT PROTECTED:
- Receptacle outlets NOT AFCI protected. Modern requirements for AFCI protection of receptacle and other outlets in homes covers many locations. As a fire-safety upgrade, I recommend having a licensed electrical contractor install AFCI protection where practical or in the context of remodeling where currently required. In this home AFCI protection was missing:
- 🔹 at all locations
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ED4-3 🚪EXTERIOR DOORS:
DOOR BETWEEN LAUNDRY AND KITCHEN:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the door between the house and the unit that are in need of repairs, improvements and maintenance. Some of the conditions will be documented below but should not be considered all inclusive.
Replacement of the door can improve overall energy efficiency of the home as well as improve security and safety.
The following conditions were noted:
GENERAL DOOR CONCERNS:
- 🔹not safety glass
- 🔹3-M plastic safety sheet can be added to the glass for improved safety or the glass can be replaced with safety glass.
LOCKING MECHANISMS:
- 🔹🚩risk of being locked out of kitchen. The door lockset is type that one could lock themselves out of the kitchen if the latch locking mechanism is not turned to "unlocked" before exiting the unit. I recommend replacement with a type of lockset that unlocks when you turn the handle.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- K3-1 🥧Kitchen:
KITCHEN SINKS/COUNTERTOPS/CABINETS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the Kitchen sink:
SINK CONCERNS:
- 🔹🚩Sink not properly caulked at connection with countertop. Because the kitchen sink is in a food preparation area the joint between the sink and the countertop should be properly caulked/sealed to make cleaning easier and to reduce spaces where molds and bacteria can grow.
DRAINAGE:
- 🚩Not likely properly vented
CABINET CONCERNS:
- 🔹cutting boards in poor condition
I recommend evaluation and repair by a qualified party.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Wood Destroying Organisms
📌Not Applicable📚PORTAL to the FULL REPORT
Reading the Observations in This Report
The Observations (Narratives) are the Story about the Structure. Sometimes these narratives can benefit from additional qualifiers to better inform the reader. Below, is a list of the additional qualifiers used in this report.
🚩Other Modifiers: in the report, applicable icons and bold text will be attached to the narratives as appropriate
🛑 Safety: The issue being reported on has relevant safety concerns that may or may not be the primary focus of the narrative.
🛑 SAFETY: The issue being reported on has relevant significant safety concerns that may or may not be the primary focus of the narrative.
🛑 IMMEDIATE REPAIRS: The issue being reported on has relevant safety concerns that need immediate attention.
🔨Repair: Some amount of repairs will be necessary along with other considerations.
🔧 Maintenance (annual): The issue being reported on has relevant maintenance aspects that are not the primary focus of the narrative and need attention at least annually.
🔧 Maintenance (biennial): The issue being reported on has relevant maintenance aspects that are not the primary focus of the narrative and need attention at least bi-annually.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed): The issue being reported on has relevant maintenance aspects that are not the primary focus of the narrative and should be addressed as needed.
🔧 Maintenance (monthly): The issue being reported on has relevant maintenance aspects that are not the primary focus of the narrative and should be addressed monthly.
👁🗨 Monitor: The issue being reported on warrants frequent monitoring even while not being the primary focus of the narrative.
👁🗨 Monitor weekly: The issue being reported on warrants monitoring weekly even while not being the primary focus of the narrative.
👁🗨 Monitor annually: The issue being reported on warrants monitoring annually even while not being the primary focus of the narrative.
👁🗨 Monitor monthly: The issue being reported on warrants monitoring monthly even while not being the primary focus of the narrative.
👁🗨 Monitor during use: The issue being reported on warrants monitoring at least during use even while not being the primary focus of the narrative.
🐞 WDO’s: While perhaps not the primary focus of the narrative, there are conditions conducive to Wood Destroying Organisms.
➕ Upgrade: While not the primary focus of the narrative, upgrading may be something that could be done to repair/improve/replace the issue.
🌲 Efficiency / IAQ: While not the primary focus of this narrative, there are energy efficiency and/or indoor air quality aspects to it.
🔍 Due Diligence: Reasonable steps should be taken such that you are fully informed, confident and satisfied with your knowledge of the issue.
📝 Informational note: General information that typically requires no action and meant to be more informative.
What is "Create Request List"?:
The "Create Request List" function, located under the report header, allows any party to build a request list from any of the items in the report. These lists can then be given to appropriate parties as desired.
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General Property Info
Building Characteristics / Inspection Conditions
Type of Building: Single Family (1-story) with non-conforming finished basement), crawl spaces in some areas
Approximate Square Footage: Not verified, 933
The square footage of the building recorded here is based on unverified sources like listing info and jurisdictional records. Exercise your due diligence and verify accuracy to your satisfaction.🔍 Due Diligence
Approximate Year of Construction: 1920
🕔Inspection Start Time: 8:00 am
Finish Time: 1:00 pm
Total Time: 5 hours
👨👦👦 Those present at the property at the time of Inspection: 6 students, homeowner just part time
Occupancy: Occupied, nobody home
🎥Surveillance Cameras & Security System noted: Not determine, none seen
Animals/Pets: no evidence noted
Weather during the inspection: ☀️Clear
🌡️Approximate temperature during the inspection: 65° F ± 5°
Ground/Soil surface conditions: Damp
Days since last significant precipitation: The day prior to inspection
SETTING THE STAGE:
Building Characteristics / Conditions
Suggested Repairs and Re-inspections:
When repairs are made on the home, I recommend that I be called back to verify that corrections have been satisfactorily made. A minimum assessment of 💲250.00 will be charged for each Work Order Evaluation Inspection that is requested and performed. Additional charges will accrue for anything in writing, beyond an email response, and for evaluations at more than 20 miles travel time--these costs to be agreed upon at the time of the request for further evaluation. REMEDIAL WORK – For any element or condition requiring attention, quotes should be obtained prior to closing from qualified specialists or contractors to determine actual repair/replacement costs. Any cost estimates provided, whether oral or written, represent only an approximation of possible costs. Also, any cost estimates do not reflect all possible remedial needs or costs for the property; latent concerns or consequential damage may exist. If the need for remedial work develops or is uncovered after the inspection, contact Charles Buell Inspections, Inc. to arrange an inspection to assess conditions prior to performing any repairs.
- IF THERE ARE ITEMS WITHIN THIS REPORT THAT REQUIRE RE-INSPECTION, YOU ARE ENCOURAGED TO HAVE ME COMMUNICATE DIRECTLY WITH THOSE HIRED TO MAKE THE CORRECTIONS TO ENSURE THAT REPAIRS ARE PROPERLY MADE AND THE RECOMMENDATIONS ARE UNDERSTOOD.
- Any suggestions of how something might be corrected is done as a courtesy and is based on my experience. It should not be construed to mean these suggestions are the only way to make repairs, the best way to make repairs, or even the wholly correct way to make repairs. Other factors not seen at the time of inspection can result in other requirements etc. The qualified parties hired to make the repairs should be relied upon for their solutions as they will be the ones liable for them and should be in the best position to determine the best course of action.
There are many things that can be done to improve safety and living conditions within any home. While many of these issues come to light in the course of the Standard Home Inspection there are likely to be other things that can be done to improve the home. Additional information can be found at: Center for Healthy Living
🔍 Due Diligence
🌈 A Note about thermal imaging: infrared
During this inspection, a thermal imaging camera was used superficially to check walls and ceilings for thermal anomalies and also to check specific appliances for verification of some degree of function. Thermal imaging cameras use the infrared light spectrum to build a picture of the house based on surface temperatures. Experienced thermographers look for clues in these thermal images that could lead us to find concealed water leaks or missing air or thermal barriers. In older homes, incomplete air and thermal barriers are so common, we will only report on items that look significantly deficient and are worthy of correction. In modern construction if could result in finding areas of missing insulation, weather-stripping and other deficiencies the builder would still be responsible for.
- This limited service is included in the inspection and should not be construed to be a complete thermal mapping of the house. The use of an infrared camera is well beyond the minimum standards for a home inspection, but I offer this service because I know it can provide valuable information that cannot be gained in other ways. Relevant thermal images will be included in the report.
- Even though sometimes the images will have what looks like specific temperatures displayed, the pictures should ONLY be seen as being "qualitative" and not "quantitative." (In other words, the numbers do not necessarily mean anything and should not be interpreted as if they do.)
📝 Informational note
Residential Homes: General Information
📝:During the inspection, I am looking for obvious, and not so obvious, clues as to problems with components or systems. At times, a repair can be as expensive as replacement and sometimes additional problems or damage are found when work begins. In fact, a defect in one system or component can cause a related problem at another location that was not apparent at the time of the inspection. It is recommended that you obtain -- at a minimum -- estimates from specialists for service/repairs or replacement/upgrades of any components or systems that may be potentially costly, dangerous, or complex to fix or replace--in a time frame consistent with proper due diligence.
- If repairs are completed in an acceptable time frame, you will minimize chances of any unexpected surprises after closing. In performing one's due diligence, it is important the client not only follow through on the recommendations I make in this report but any other concerns that may arise when called for repairs.
- This report should never be taken as an end in itself, but merely part of the ""process"" of due diligence. It is in no way meant to interfere with the decisions you must make in to move forward with the transaction, it is merely what I consider best advice.
- While on-site, all professional repair persons should be asked to further evaluate the condition of the system, structural components, or device that he or she is working on. Often one problem will lead to another related issue which can require further repairs or replacement. If remodeling is done, where walls and ceilings are opened, wallpaper removed, homeowners may find some concealed issues that will also have to be addressed during the remodel. Because the home inspector is a generalist, this policy further protects the client.
🔍 Due Diligence
Property lines: What are the property boundaries?
Determining the location of property boundary lines is beyond the scope of a Standard Home Inspection and can typically only be determined by a licensed surveyor.
🔍 Due Diligence
Having Repairs Done: at the home
All construction work performed under these specifications must meet standard, good construction practices as to quality of workmanship and materials. Pest control measures must be performed by state licensed applicators in conformance with all current federal, state and local laws. A fee of 💲250.00 will be charged for each Work Order Evaluation Inspection or consultation that I am requested to do. Additional charges will accrue for anything in writing beyond an email response and for evaluations at more than 20 miles travel-- these costs to be agreed upon at the time of the request.
📝 Informational note
Pre-Listing: House not for Sale
This Pre-listing Inspection implies some caution regarding issues found or not found during the inspection. Throughout the report there are "built-in" comments that apply more to homes that are for sale but have been left in the report for the information value--please excuse any possible confusion due to the wording. The inspection is a "snap-shot" of the home as it appeared at the time of inspection and no warranty as to future issues is implied. It is also assumed that basic function of normally tested appliances and systems would be known to the owners (non-functional appliances and rooms without heat for example) and inspection will be more "casual" related to these components.
HOUSE NOT FOR SALE:
- Throughout the report there are "built-in" comments that apply more to homes that are for sale but have been left in the report for the information value--please excuse any possible confusion due to the wording. The inspection is a "snap-shot" of the home as it appeared at the time of inspection and no warranty as to future issues is implied
📝 Informational note
Storage/Belongings: in house, in the garage
There was storage and belongings in the house that made viewing of covered surfaces difficult. The chances that hidden defects will be found when these storage items are removed is possible. For a more complete opinion of the overall condition I recommend further evaluation when all of this storage is removed.
Deferred/Cosmetic: Cosmetic inside/outside
There is some deferred maintenance and cosmetic defects all around the exterior of the home. No attempt is made to identify all of these issues but will be mentioned in relation to more serious concerns throughout the report.
🔍 Due Diligence
Appliance: 📢Recalls
Whether it is heating & cooling equipment, or kitchen & laundry appliances, there will be data plates recorded in this report. I recommend, for safety, you take a few minutes and use that data plate information to see if there have been any recalls of such appliances. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to do any kind of recall check. Most recalls can be found on the Consumer Products Safety Commission website and they also have a recall notices program that you can sign up for that will help keep you up to date on any future recalls of your appliances. CPSC Recalls.
🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Codes, Standards and Manufacturer's instructions: General guidance
This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction process, depending on the age of the home, structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, and this limits the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are typically adjusted every three years for all of the varying disciplines. Municipalities can choose to adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their own timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done. That said, most recommendations get guidance from codes, manufacturer's instructions and other authoritative sources.
In the report there may be instances where specific building codes, other standards and manufacturer's instructions may be specifically quoted. This in no way should be construed to mean this inspection is a code compliance inspection or that all manufacturer's instructions are known or checked. These instances are only provided as a courtesy in assisting with specific instances. There may be other exceptions to these examples that are also applicable and a full evaluation by the appropriate trade is recommended.
🔍 Due Diligence
🧀 Mold or what appears to be mold: General information about mold is provided below
The Standard Home Inspection does not attempt to identify whether the type of Mold or what looks like Mold seen on the premises are of types considered to have adverse health effects. Concerns regarding the toxicity of Mold is deferred to qualified Industrial Hygienists who should be contacted regarding any concerns that you might have about Mold found on the property. Small areas under 10 square feet can typically be cleaned up by the building owner. Please see the information below regarding Mold from the EPA.
- It is not uncommon for concerns related to reported mold, or what looks like mold, to be raised by other parties, that may not be consistent with my recommendations in this report, and this should be anticipated. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to referee these differences of opinion but doing one's due diligence to your satisfaction is advised. The testing and remediation industry is rife with false/misleading information, and junk science done without credible metrics, proffered by those with no Industrial Hygienist credentials.
Mold (a type of fungus) is a wood inhabiting organism, not a wood destroying organism.
Ten Things You Should Know About Mold (from the EPA): (Orange is my editorializing)
- Potential health effects and symptoms associated with mold exposures include allergic reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints. (These reactions can be seen as the bodies way of telling you to get out of that environment---that something is wrong.)
- There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture. (Find the moisture issue and fix it.)
- If mold is a problem in your home or school, you must clean up the mold and eliminate sources of moisture.
- Fix the source of the water problem or leak to prevent mold growth.
- Reduce indoor humidity (to 30-60% ) to decrease mold growth by: venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating sources to the outside; using air conditioners and de-humidifiers; increasing ventilation; and using exhaust fans whenever cooking, dish-washing, and cleaning.
- Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth.
- Clean mold off hard surfaces with water and detergent, and dry completely. Absorbent materials such as ceiling tiles, that are moldy, may need to be replaced.
- Prevent condensation: Reduce the potential for condensation on cold surfaces (i.e., windows, piping, exterior walls, roof, or floors) by adding insulation.
- In areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem, do not install carpeting (i.e., by drinking fountains, by classroom sinks, or on concrete floors with leaks or frequent condensation).
- Molds can be found almost anywhere; they can grow on virtually any substance, providing moisture is present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods.
Information from the EPA on MOLD.
The following link is a very good "practical" video about dealing with mold in the home: NW Clean Air Agency,
The following link is a very good source for the most current information regarding mold in the home: Health Effects of Indoor Mold,
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
👃🏼Odors related to building and property: Present
While I document odors around the property, this is informational only except in the case where it might be a danger (like a gas leak, which would be reported on elsewhere as well).
ODORS RELATED TO THE INTERIOR:
- tobacco smoke
🛑 Safety 👁🗨 Monitor 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
General Pictures from around the Property
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⛺GROUNDS
Topography and Conditions around the building
GEOLOGICAL FACTORS: What about the land the house is built on?
This report does not include evaluation of any soils or geological conditions/concerns. Construction on certain soils, particularly expansive clays, fill soils, hillside and waterfront areas, necessitate special design consideration. Evaluation of these factors, or the need for them, is beyond the scope of this inspection. Pertinent information should be obtained from local officials and/or a qualified specialists, particularly if any concerns are detected or if the home is in a detrimental soils area.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor (ongoing) 🔍 Due Diligence
PROPERTY DRAINAGE: What about the property drainage?
To maintain proper drainage away from the structure soil adjacent to the foundation should slope at least 1 inch per foot for five feet away from the home. Paved areas should slope at least 1/4 inch per foot. Control of surface drainage is critical to keeping basements and crawl spaces dry. A clearance of 6 inches should be maintained from the soil to the bottom of wood siding or trim on the home, unless the material is pressure treated wood or other material approved for ground contact. Swales around homes can help manage water and reduce its impact on the home.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
Site Conditions/Locations: Below the surface conditions not determined
Sometimes the surface around the home appears to slope properly but fill has been added on top of surfaces that actually slope toward the foundation. While this cannot be observed at the time of an inspection, moisture conditions in the interior of the basement may be related to this type of improper drainage. Underlying soils below the finish surface (grass etc) should slope properly away from the home and be relatively impermeable.
🔧 Maintenance (annual) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
Landscaping:
Not inspectedNo defects obvious
Building Finished Areas Below Grade: Present
When building finished areas are below grade, appropriate drainage is necessary whether through proper perimeter drains or surface water collection systems. When these systems are inadequate or missing, flooding of the interior is possible.
🔧 Maintenance (annual) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
Grading Around Home/Building: grass present
Flat Site: House on Flat Site
Homes on flat sites, can can have water related issues that can not be adequately predicted or observed in a Standard Home Inspection. Vigilant monitoring of the sub-surface spaces (and the grading around the home) is recommended. Water intrusions/conditions should be evaluated/repaired by a licensed drainage installation company that utilizes the services of a licensed geo-technical engineer.
🔧 Maintenance (annual) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
Aerial View of Property: .
Images from Google Maps and/or County Website
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CONDITIONS RELATED TO THE GROUNDS AROUND THE BUILDING:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the grounds that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by the appropriate qualified parties.
GRADING CONCERNS RELATED TO:
- Reverse grade. Improving grading around the home to minimize the flow of surface water toward the foundation is recommended. This is primarily a concern at the north side of the home where the overall slant of the grade is toward the home. Improvements to the grading by a licensed landscaping contractor is recommended. Grade should slope away from the home for at least 10 feet or to whatever distance can be created due to close proximity to adjacent properties or have proper drainage to accommodate surface water that can impact the building:
- 🔹crawl space/basement involved. This water can impact the foundation and find its way into the crawl space and basement contributing to the overall moisture burden of the home.
- 🔹at west side of the home
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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Drainage Systems
Underground Pipe Drainage Systems: Proper function cannot be determined
Most properties have underground drainage systems that must be maintained as functional to properly drain water away to approved locations. Most of this cannot be inspected ore determined in the course of the inspection. Pooling water on the properly can be an indication of poorly functioning and/or missing drainage.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
Tight-line drains (roof water drains): Tight-line drains are for the collection of roof water independent of footing drains
Proper function of tight-line drains (drains that the downspouts connect to) is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend that proper function be both determined and maintained. If drains are present and accessible, one method to verify function is to run a hose into them for a prolonged time and see whether water backs up out of the drain. While some can be inspected by remote camera, most sewer scoping companies do not scope these drains.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence
Footing drains: Presence of footing drain pipes not determined
The Perimeter/Footing Drains of homes cannot be evaluated in the context of a home inspection--including determining if they are even present. Evaluation relies on visual clues present at the time of inspection. I saw no evidence the perimeter drains are not functional at the time of inspection but seasonal conditions may apply.
🔍 Due Diligence
PROPERTY DRAINAGE SYSTEMS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Drainage around the building. Drainage systems around the property warrant ongoing vigilant maintenance/cleaning. Conditions of such drainage mostly cannot be determined in the context of an inspection. The following conditions were noted and evaluation and repairs should be made by a qualified party as deemed necessary.
ROOF WATER DRAINS:
- Conditions:
- 🔹debris filled pipes evident
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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Sheds and Play Structures
Storage sheds/structures: Detached building/shop with apartment was not inspected except for some electrical components discussed in the electrical section, Other detached structures to the north side of the property were not inspected
🌳Vegetation on Property
Vegetation 🌳: General information
All vegetation should be routinely maintained and not allowed to contact the home siding and other components. This is considered routine maintenance that any home owner should be vigilant about to prevent physical damage to the building, lower the risk of water intrusion to the building lower the risk of vermin entering the home and to lower the risk of wood destroying organisms affecting the home.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor (ongoing) 🔍 Due Diligence
VEGETATION IMPACTING BUILDING/PROPERTY:
There was vegetation at the south side of the home that was too close to the home. All vegetation should be maintained away from the home at least 12 inches. Vegetation too close to the home can create a pathway to the home for moisture, insects and vermin. Inspection of some components of the home was limited by the proximity of vegetation to the home and further evaluation may be warranted when the vegetation is cleared away and some amount of damage should be anticipated. I recommend evaluation and maintenance by a qualified party.
NOTED CONDITIONS:
- 🔹vegetation too close to the building at front entryway stoop
🛑 Safety, 🔨Repair, 🔧 Maintenance, 👁🗨 Monitor annually, 🐞 WDO’s, ➕ Upgrade and 🔍 Due Diligence
Patios
Patios: General patio considerations
Patios are subject to the same type of cracking and settlement as driveways and walkways. If settlement creates a trip-hazard or creates negative drainage toward the foundation and resultant moisture intrusion into the basement or crawl space, repair/replacement of the patio should be undertaken. Patios should be constructed to drain surface water away from the home. Patio surfaces should not be installed over any type of cladding or trim. A patio surface can become slippery and represents a hazard for anyone walking on it. I recommend routine maintenance of the surface to keep it free of debris and slippery conditions. Cracks should be sealed to prevent moisture from further damaging the surface.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor (ongoing) 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Surface type: Concrete
Patio Drainage: Ability of patio to drain not determined
PATIO CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the patio.
CONCRETE PATIO:
- 🔹very flat
DRAINAGE:
- 🔹ability of patio to drain away water not determined
- 🔹poorly drained--very flat
- 🔹ponding should be anticipated
I recommend evaluation by a qualified party as deemed necessary.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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Driveways
Vehicle Access to Property: Driveway/Parking Areas
Driveway General Information: Vehicle(s) in driveway
Driveway Surfaces: Asphalt
Asphalt paving should be maintained and cracks sealed as necessary to discourage water entry to the underlying sub-grade which provides the principal support for this type of flexible pavement.
Settlement, water under-mining or heaving caused by expansive soils, tree roots and frost are other conditions associated with asphalt driveways. Repair is not generally necessary unless a trip hazard exists, in which case replacement/repairs to the asphalt is generally required.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Slope of Driveway: Ability of driveway to drain was not determined
Street Sidewalk
Street Sidewalk/Steps/Retaining Walls: None Present
Property Walkways
Property Walkways: Present, Concrete
Walkways on the property can have concerns pertinent to the homeowner. Maintenance of these walkways is important and defects such as trip hazards and the presence of snow/ice can lead to increased liability if persons are injured.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor (ongoing) 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
PROPERTY WALKWAYS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Property Walkways. There were numerous conditions with the concrete property walkways that should be evaluated, repaired and maintained by a qualified party. Some areas merely need monitoring and maintenance typical of any walkway. Maintenance of these walkways is typically the responsibility of the property owner and defects such as trip hazards and the presence of snow/ice can lead to increased liability if persons are injured. The following conditions were noted to the walkway:
PROPERTY CONCRETE WALKWAYS:
- Surface Conditions:
- 🔹settlement
- 🔹displacement
- 🔹cracks
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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Exterior Stairs to Basement
Exterior Stairs to Basement: Enclosed by newer garage addition
Stairwell Stairs: Concrete poured in place
Stairwell Guard: Wood wall, Concrete/masonry
Stairwell Handrail: Handrail present
Fences
Fences: Present, Casually inspected
Fences around the property are generally excluded from the Standard Home Inspection. However, some information is provided as a courtesy and points of connection to the home itself are inspected. Fences can represent safety issues when they become damaged, derelict or otherwise compromised. Wood decay/rot is common. It also typically cannot be determined who actually owns the fence and communication with neighbors is often necessary to accomplish repairs and/or replacement. Specific evaluation of the fences on the property may be warranted.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor (ongoing) 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
FENCES AROUND THE PROPERTY:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Fences. While fences around the home are generally not inspected except as to how they impact the home, as a courtesy, I still report safety concerns and general conditions when warranted. All fences should be maintained and inspected periodically. Sometimes maintenance and replacement involves the neighbors and I make no determination as to ownership of fences on the borders of the property. Your due diligence is advised.
GENERAL FENCE CONCERNS:
- 🔹fences in poor condition and should be replaced if desired
- 🔹repairs will likely involve neighbors
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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Limitations/Exclusions Related to Grounds
Grounds Limitations and Exclusions: Standard Home Inspection Exclusions
A Standard Home Inspection does not include evaluation of elements such as site lighting. Evaluation of these elements, if present, may be warranted, any comments made or made as a courtesy, whether done verbally or included in the written report.
The following limitations and exclusions were noted:
THE FOLLOWING LIMITATIONS AND EXCLUSIONS WERE NOTED:
- 🔹Fences that surround the property are typically not inspected
- 🔹Soil and slope stability and hydrological conditions are not within the scope of this inspection.
- 🔹The functionality of underground drainage components cannot be determined during a typical inspection.
- 🔹Vegetation obstructed views of home
🔧 Maintenance (annual) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
🏡BUILDING EXTERIOR & STRUCTURE
Exterior Walls
Exterior Wall Structure: 🚩Materials used, Makeup of most wall structures could not be determined due to finishes
Regardless what is recorded and documented below, determining the exact construction and makeup of the building's walls can only be determined fully by taking them apart, something not done in a Standard Home Inspection. Hints as to wall construction can usually only be deduced from incidental visual indicators, like thickness of walls, framing exposed in unfinished areas, and/or practices common to the area the home is built in. Any conclusions made should not be seen as absolute and merely the best opinion of the inspector.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor (ongoing) 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Wood Frame: 2x4 wood wall construction
Building Identification: House Numbers/Letters, Numbers/Letters are visible
In an emergency it is important for authorities and service personnel to readily locate the home. The homeowner should make sure that house numbers are maintained visible from street (both night and day). Modern requirements call for numbers/letters to be a minimum of 4" high and placed on a contrasting surface and being lighted is recommended.
VISIBILITY:
- Visible from street
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Building Sheathing: No sheathing visible--type and/or presence not determined
I saw no evidence to think that the house structure is not performing as intended. However hidden damage is always a possibility---as it is with any type of siding/sheathing installation.
📝Informational note
Plywood: Typical of time of construction
I saw no evidence to think that the house structure is not performing as intended. However hidden damage is always a possibility---as it is with any type of siding/sheathing installation.
WHERE SEEN:
- Garage
📝Informational note
Solid Boards: Typical of time of construction
I saw no evidence to think that the house structure is not performing as intended. However hidden damage is always a possibility---as it is with any type of siding/sheathing installation.
WHERE SEEN:
- Visible at ends of attic
📝Informational note
Exterior Wall Coverings: Multiple layers not determined
Flashings: General Information
Whether related to the roof or other exterior components, it is important for all changes of materials to have appropriate flashings or overlaps to shed water from upper surfaces to lower surfaces. Roofing has its requirements and Windows & Claddings have their requirements. Noted deficiencies in these details will be discussed in the relevant sections below and ongoing monitoring of these areas should be ongoing. Hidden damage is common and should be anticipated. Evidence is often not found in the course of the inspection---especially after long periods of no rain.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
THE BUILDING EXTERIOR HAS THE FOLLOWING CONCERNS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Building's Exterior. The following concerns should be evaluated, repaired, replaced and improved by a qualified party as deemed necessary. Hidden damage in exterior cladding is common and should be anticipated.
EXTERIOR CONDITION:
- 🔹inadequate clearances to finish grade
- 🔹mechanical damage
- 🔹missing components
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (annual) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Fiber Cement Cladding
General information: Manufacturer determined and/or not determined
It is not always possible to determine the manufacturer of the fiber cement siding on the home. While I may refer to this installation with examples of Hardi-Plank installation details/requirements, this should not be construed to mean it IS a James Hardi product. CertainTeed, ChemPlank and Allura can be found in this market but are less common. Most manufacturer's have similar installation requirements. Problems specific to this installation would require "proper" identification of the product to determine what actual installation requirements are and what remedies might be possible--including any recalls that might be available.
🔍 Due Diligence
Flashings: Type not determined where present
Horizontal and Shake Lap: Horizontal Lap
Butt Joints: Joints caulked
Surface Finishes: Painted, Recently repainted (less than 1 year estimated)
The exterior trim of the home has recently been repainted. Repainting prior to sale oftentimes conceals conditions that would otherwise be evident. I recommend monitoring over the next few months for staining/bleed-through conditions that would be indicative of previous or current leaks/water damage. Painting can conceal repairs, rot, stains etc.
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Penetrations larger than 1-1/2" in diameter: No defects noted
Hose Faucets: Block present
Dryer Vent: Block present
Receptacle Blocks: Block present
FIBER CEMENT SIDING:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Fiber Cement Cladding. Siding protects the home from the elements and requires ongoing maintenance. Sometimes there are enough issues that entire replacement is warranted. The following issues were noted:
CONCERNS:
- Siding clearance conditions:
- 🔹too close to deck/porch/balcony surfaces
- 🔹behind deck structures
- 🔹siding behind/in-contact-with concrete structures
- 🔹not installed per manufacturers instructions/recommendations. Issues were noted that may impact the reliability, longevity or warranty of the product but may be difficult or cost-prohibitive to correct. Repairs to these items are often put off until such time as larger repairs become needed or damage becomes obvious.
- 🔹evidence of patching/repairs
FLASHINGS:
- 🔹1/4 inch gaps missing at horizontal flashings
- Penetrations. With cement board siding there are specific requirements related to penetrations of the siding. This includes pipes. There are numerous issues that do not meet modern requirements. Location (under overhangs for example) will dictate how important repairs will be. Sometimes maintenance is all that is necessary. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a qualified party experienced with cement board siding installation requirements at the following locations: outside faucets, etc. There are also other siding details that do not meet cement board installation related to penetrations:
- 🔹missing flashings
I recommend a full evaluation by a qualified siding contractor to determine what repairs are necessary and to make proper repairs including, where appropriate, evaluation/repairs of hidden damage. Some amount of hidden damage should be anticipated..
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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Cedar Shingles
General information: Very small gaps, cracks, pipe penetrations, mechanical damage
Surface Finishes: Painted
CEDAR SHINGLE SIDING:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Cedar Shingle Siding. Siding protects the home from the elements and requires ongoing maintenance. Sometimes there are enough issues that entire replacement is warranted. The following issues were noted:
CONCERNS:
- Siding installation conditions:
- 🔹much over-painting and poor prep--replace as desired
I recommend evaluation by a qualified siding contractor to determine what repairs are necessary and to make proper repairs including, where appropriate, evaluation/repairs of hidden damage
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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Trim & Eaves
No roof overhangs: No overhangs in some areas
Open Soffits: With exposed rafters and vented bird-blocking, at the garage only
Wood Trim: present
Surface Finishes: Painted
Metal Trim: As relates to roof installation
EXTERIOR TRIM:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the trim of the home. There are conditions that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a qualified party. Any damaged materials should be replaced, repaired and maintained as deemed necessary.
WOOD TRIM:
- Conditions:
- 🔹gaps not caulked
- 🔹horizontal flashings improperly caulked
- Too close to:
- 🔹ground
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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Flashings
Penetration block flashings: caulk instead of flashing
Horizontal flashings at material changes: present
Window head flashing: present, at some locations
Door head flashing: present, at some locations
Garage overhead door head-flashing: caulk instead of flashing
Crawl space vent flashings: caulk instead of flashing
FLASHINGS RELATED TO EXTERIOR CLADDING:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Exterior Cladding. Proper flashings of exterior cladding is critical to keep moisture out of the structure. The following conditions were noted and should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a qualified party. Hidden damage should be anticipated.
FLASHINGS:
- 🔹Missing/Inadequate. This can lead to water penetration behind the siding and can lead to water penetration of the house sheathing at these locations. Repairs would likely prove difficult but repairs may become necessary in time--this is especially true in areas that are not well protected by overhangs on the South and West sides of the home. Hidden damage is common, with at least the trim boards. I recommend monitoring and repairs later when it becomes necessary or that proper flashings be installed now by a qualified siding contractor to avoid perhaps more costly repairs later. In the context of repainting the home you might want to consider having proper flashings installed. If flashings are not installed it will be necessary to be vigilant about keeping the connections well caulked and sealed to prevent water intrusion. The big drawback to caulking these connections as opposed to proper flashings is that water that finds its way behind the trim where it becomes trapped and promotes hidden decay/rot. These flashings are obviously less critical in areas well protected by overhangs. While a common installation practice with cement board siding it is still not best practice.
- Missing locations:
- 🔹head flashings
- 🔹crawl space vents
- 🔹These flashings are obviously less critical in areas well protected by overhangs.
🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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🔆 Exterior Wall Thermal Barrier (other thermal performance info in the roofing section)
Wall Thermal Performance Information: How energy efficient is the building?
The thermal efficiency of any home is a very complicated subject and cannot likely be adequately assessed during a home inspection. I can give you clues as to breakdowns in the thermal boundaries, but thermal efficiency can still have problems related to the types of insulation, how much insulation there is and how well air sealed the thermal boundary is. A more complete analysis by a Building Performance Professional can give much insight as to how and where to make improvements that will be cost effective and worthwhile. When the entire home is finished off, there is often no way to directly assess methods and types of insulation in the home. Being a visual inspection, I can only look for the results of hidden conditions related to missing insulation or poor air sealing. Evaluation of how well the home is insulated and air sealed can be done by thermal imaging devices under appropriate temperature differentials. Proper testing conditions were not likely ideal at the time of inspection and not the focus of the inspection. The amount of imaging done at the inspection are not intended to be true analysis and should not be considered such. They are merely meant to show the need for proper evaluation. There will be additional information about the building thermal performance in the Roofing Section of the report and this informational note will not be repeated to minimize duplication.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Rim Joists: Not visible/Not determined/None
Wall Cavity: Not visible/Not determined/None, Not determined due to finish surfaces
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Exteriors
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Exteriors: Present
The following limitations and exclusions were noted related to the exterior of the home;
VEGETATION COVERED:
- 🔹obstructing views/access in minor areas around the front entryway
OUT-BUILDINGS/STRUCTURES:
- 🔹not included in this inspection.
🔍 Due Diligence
🐞Wood Destroying Organisms and Conducive Conditions Related to the Exteriors
🐞BUILDING EXTERIOR Wood Decay/Rot: Siding conducive conditions
Wood Decay Fungi (wood rot), are filamentous organisms which begin as microscopic spores that land on the surface of wood, and germinate to produce thin strand like cells called hyphae. Hyphae grow through the wood and secrete enzymes which degrade and weaken the wood. Decay requires: (1)adequate moisture, (2)ambient temperature (32º to 110º), (3) oxygen, (4) a food source. Wood moisture levels above 20-30% are considered conducive to wood fungal rot. Damaged wood typically will need to be replaced. Ultimately the source of moisture must be eliminated even if all of the fungal organism cannot be eliminated.
EVIDENCE NOTED:
- Entryways
SIDING CONDUCIVE CONDITIONS:
- Finish grade too high
- Some siding too close to ground
- Some siding in contact with concrete structures
- Some siding too close to deck surfaces
- Some siding covered with vegetation
- Exposed sheathing
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
North Deck/Entryway
Overview of Deck
NORTH DECK/ENTRYWAY:
The deck structure had numerous issues and no attempt to document all these issues will be made in this report. The bulleted lists and narratives related to the information and pictures below should be seen as more representative as opposed to all inclusive and other concerns should be anticipated. Concerns were noted in relation to:
GENERAL INFORMATION:
- There were issues with:
- 🔹the structure
- 🔹the walking surface
- 🔹the stairs
STAIRS:
- Conditions:
- 🔹paint failure
TREADS:
- 🔹thickness of stair treads is less than the required 1-1/2"
HANDRAILS:
- Conditions:
- 🔹not present
FLOOR STRUCTURE:
- Construction:
LEDGERS:
- 🔹not bolted or not adequately bolted
- 🔹ledger attached on top of siding
JOISTS:
- Metal hangers/brackets:
- 🔹missing at some locations
STAINED/TREATED SURFACE:
- Conditions:
- 🔹weathering/deterioration
- 🔹inadequate clearances between siding and deck surface. the siding is too close to the deck surface and moisture damage can occur over time. Proper clearances should be created and/or vigilantly maintained.
PAINTED:
- 🔹failed paint
POSTS/COLUMNS:
- 🔹improper/insufficient attachment noted
BEAMS:
- 🔹improperly supported beams
Notes, and maintenance documentation/details about the deck, will be detailed in the pertinent sections below this narrative.
The following pictures with descriptions are meant to convey the necessity for evaluation/repair of the structure by a qualified deck installation/repair contractor as deemed necessary. The recommended minimum standards can be found in the American Wood Council's Prescriptive Wood Residential Deck Construction Guide. This guide is also known as "DCA-6." Another great reference, even though a little ahead of requirements in most jurisdictions and not free, Deck Construction Based on the 2021 IRC. I recommend evaluation, repairs and improvements by a qualified deck construction contractor.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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Surface
Paint: Painted Wood
Sizes/Materials: 5/4x4
Structure
Structure : Wood
Hidden structural components: Mostly NOT Visible
Post and Pier: Supported on house/building, Pre-cast concrete blocks
Support Posts/Columns: 4x4 posts, Treated wood
The treated wood typically used in the construction of wood decks is called "ground contact" pressure treated wood. Because the preservative does not penetrate to the center of the wood, decay/rot and damage by wood destroying insects can occur over time. This often cannot be determined in a visual inspection. Wood members with typical checking cracks are especially prone to hidden damage. Ground Contact, pressure treated lumber, older than 20 years should be invasively tested by a qualified party to determine the soundness of the wood. When wood deck structural components need to be replaced, they should be replaced with "foundation grade" pressure treated lumber.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Bottom Attachment: Attachment brackets present
Ledgers: Treated wood
Ledger Flashing: Ledger flashing is evident, in some locations/not present in some locations
Joists: Treated wood
Joist size: Wood Joists: 2x6, 16"oc
Rim Joists: Treated wood
Barrier/Guards/Top Cap
Guard Conditions: Greater than 36" high
Stained Wood: Present
Openings in Wood Barrier (Guard): Spaces less than 4"
Space Under Structure
Conditions: Open/no enclosure, Vermin access possible
Stairs
Landings: Present
Run of Stairs: pressure treated wood, painted wood
Stair Treads: Cedar, Stained Wood, More than 10"
Stair Risers: Open Risers
Handrails: None present but would make a good safety improvement
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Deck
Limitations & Exclusions: Related to Decks
LIMITATIONS TO INSPECTION:
- 🔹Limited access below
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
🐞Wood Destroying Organisms and Conducive Conditions Related to Decks
🐞DECK Wood Decay/Rot: Conducive conditions
Wood Decay Fungi (wood rot), are filamentous organisms which begin as microscopic spores that land on the surface of wood, and germinate to produce thin strand like cells called hyphae. Hyphae grow through the wood and secrete enzymes which degrade and weaken the wood. Decay requires: (1)adequate moisture, (2)ambient temperature (32º to 110º), (3) oxygen, (4) a food source. Wood moisture levels above 20-30% are considered conducive to wood fungal rot. Damaged wood typically will need to be replaced. Ultimately the source of moisture must be eliminated even if all of the fungal organism cannot be eliminated.
CONDUCIVE CONDITIONS:
- failed paint
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
SE Entryway
Overview of SE Entryway Stoop
FRONT ENTRYWAY STOOP:
The deck structure had numerous issues and no attempt to document all these issues will be made in this report. The bulleted lists and narratives related to the information and pictures below should be seen as more representative as opposed to all inclusive and other concerns should be anticipated. Concerns were noted in relation to:
GENERAL INFORMATION:
- There were issues with:
- 🔹the structure
HANDRAILS:
- 🔹not present
MASONRY:
- 🔹🚩concrete covers untreated wood structures (rim joist). This is very common in older construction and hidden damage is common and should be anticipated. This is one of those things where repairs/improvements might be better left until obvious damage becomes apparent. Frequent monitoring is advised and any water intrusion/staining noted in adjacent finished areas would warrant immediate invasive evaluation.
- 🔹settlement. It may be possible to have the stoop slab-jacked (lifted) into place by a qualified jacking company.
- 🔹Inadequate clearances between siding and walking surface. Moisture damage can occur over time. Proper clearances should be created and/or vigilantly maintained. Proper flashings behind the siding to the stoop surface should be installed
SURFACE DRAINAGE:
- 🔹slopes toward home
- 🔹more than 1/4" per foot for landing
- 🔹improper drainage
Notes, and maintenance documentation/details about the deck, will be detailed in the pertinent sections below this narrative.
The following pictures with descriptions are meant to convey the necessity for a full evaluation/repair or possibly even replacement of the structure by a qualified deck installation/repair contractor as deemed necessary. The recommended minimum standards can be found in the American Wood Council's Prescriptive Wood Residential Deck Construction Guide. This guide is also known as "DCA-6." Another great reference, even though a little ahead of requirements in most jurisdictions and not free, Deck Construction Based on the 2021 IRC. I recommend evaluation, repairs and replacement by a qualified deck construction contractor.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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Surface
Masonry: Concrete
Structure
Structure : Concrete
Hidden structural components: Mostly NOT Visible
Surface Drainage
Drainage: Ability of surface to drain not verified
Barrier/Guards/Top Cap
Presence of Guard: None present and not required but is recommended
While not required, the stoop could benefit from installation of guards around the walking surface. For improved safety I recommend installation of a proper guard by a qualified party.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Stairs
Supports/foundation: Poured Concrete
Landings: Present
Handrails: None present but would make a good safety improvement
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Decks/Porches/Balconies/Stoops
Limitations & Exclusions: Related to Entryway Stoops
LIMITATIONS TO INSPECTION:
- 🔹covers wood structures
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
🚘GARAGE
Types of Parking Structures on Property
Attached Garage: 1 car bay
Garage Foundation: slab on grade
Garage Exterior Siding & Trim: Included in House Siding and Trim
Garage Roof & Roof Drainage: Included in House Roof and Roof Drainage
Garage Windows: Included in House Windows
Garage Electrical: Included in House Electrical
GARAGE INTERIORS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the garage floor that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a qualified party and monitored annually. The pictures and notes below detail some of these concerns, but should not be construed to be a complete accounting of the issues.
INTERIORS:
- 🔹Wall between house and basement. Having the exposed wood, between the garage and basement interior spaces covered with drywall to improve fire safety is recommended. Fire-resistant materials on the walls and ceilings between the house and the garage have been required by building standards for a long time. Consult with drywall installation company regarding installation. Taping of all drywall seams is recommended.
- 🔹exposed, kraft-faced insulation
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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Garage Floor
Garage Floor: Concrete
Cracks: Any possible cracks would not be visible due to finish surfaces and built-in structures
Slope of floor: Not verified due to the amount of storage in the garage
Indications of moisture: None seen
Garage Interiors
Walls/Ceilings: Unfinished
Walls and ceilings that separate the garage from living space are required to be constructed of fire-resistant materials. These requirements for abutting walls, ceilings, and doors are intended to reduce the spread of gasoline fires to living areas.
While materials may be "described" in the report, it is beyond the scope of a Standard Home Inspection to determine if the particular materials installed on the walls and ceilings of garages meet past/present fire-resistant surface requirements. Any concerns should be addressed by the local jurisdiction.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Ignition sources below 18": None noted
The codes state that all appliances/devices covered by IRC that are "ignition sources" must be elevated at least 18" above the floor. None were noted at the time of inspection, but care should be taken to be careful to not allow combustion sources below 18". Typical appliances include water heaters and furnaces etc.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Garage Stairs
Stair General Information: See basement stairs
Insulation in Garage
Insulating Garages: none
Garage/House Door
Garage/House Door: Requirements for fire separation, Conditions consistent with age and use, Solid wood door--thickness not noted
The garage/house door has fire-separation requirements it must meet. The door should be a solid wood door not less than 1-3/8 inches thick, a solid or honeycomb-core steel door not less than 1-3/8 inches thick, or 20-minute fire-rated door. All doors between the house and the garage are required to have a self-closure device (since 2012, and prior to that for 20-minute rated doors). It should also be weather-stripped at threshold, sides and top. Improper doors can allow fumes from the garage to enter the home.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Finish Surface of Door: Shows "distress" consistent with age
Weather-Stripping: Present on top and sides
Weather-stripping on doors should be maintained as necessary. Most types or good substitutes can be found at home maintenance stores.
TYPES OF WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- Foam Compression Type Weather Strip
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
GARAGE/HOUSE DOOR:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the door between the house and the garage that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a qualified party. Some of the conditions will be documented below but should not be considered all inclusive.
GENERAL DOOR CONCERNS:
- Conditions:
- 🔹shows "distress" consistent with age
🔥FIRE RESISTANCE:
- 🔹the garage/house door does not meet current standards. The door should be a solid wood door not less than 1-3/8 inches thick, a solid or honeycomb-core steel door not less than 1-3/8 inches thick, or 20-minute fire-rated door. All doors between the house and the garage are required to have a self-closure device. It should also be weather-stripped at threshold, sides and top. Improper doors can allow fumes from the garage to enter the home.
- 🔹door should be replaced in conjunction with upgrading garage for fire safety.
- 🔹automatic closer device is not present
THRESHOLD/WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- Bottom of door weather-stripping:
- 🔹not installed
- Threshold weather-stripping:
- 🔹none Present
LOCKING MECHANISMS:
- 🔹Site-built slide lock
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
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West Garage Exterior Door
Door Construction: Steel/Metal-Insulated
Out Swing: Pin type hinges
General Conditions: Conditions consistent with age
Door structure/surface: Clad type doors with bottom wood edges not sealed
See the link below for more information about foam inserts that can help prevent damage to the bottom corners of the door: Corner pads
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Weather-Stripping: Present on top and sides and bottom
Weather-stripping on doors should be maintained as necessary. Most types or good substitutes can be found at home maintenance stores.
TYPES OF WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- Foam Compression Type Weather Strip
BOTTOM OF DOOR WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- Weather-stripping is present on bottom of door
THRESHOLD WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- Adjustable Type
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Lockset & Security Mechanisms: Functioned under test
Dead-bolt: none present
WEST GARAGE EXTERIOR DOOR CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the exterior doors of the home. All should be evaluated, repaired and maintained as deemed necessary by a qualified door installation contractor or other qualified party. Concerns will be documented in the pictures below but should not be construed to be all inclusive but instead more representative:
OUT SWING:
- Not security type hinges for out-swing type door. For improved security the hinges on this out-swing type door should be replaced with security-pin type hinges. This prevents removal of the pins from the exterior when the door is closed.
- Installed backwards--threshold slopes to the interior
HINGES:
- Hinge conditions:
- 🔹not security type hinges
LOCKSET & SECURITY:
- 🔹🚩Security pin enters strike plate. It is common in homes for the lock-set security pin to enter the strike plate hole. When this happens the door can be unlocked from the outside with a credit card (in-swing type) and from the outside with a knife (out-swing type). The strike plates should be adjusted toward the weather stripping to make the door more secure. Adjustments should be made so that the pin does not enter the strike plate when closed.
- 🔹latch can be "knifed" to gain entry. The door is not secure because latch can be "knifed" to gain entry, a dead-bolt would make a good improvement..
DEAD-BOLT:
- 🔹none present
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
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East Garage Exterior Door
Door Construction: Steel/Metal-Insulated, With Thermal Break
Out Swing: Pin type hinges
General Conditions: Conditions consistent with age
Door structure/surface: Clad type doors with bottom wood edges not sealed
See the link below for more information about foam inserts that can help prevent damage to the bottom corners of the door: Corner pads
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Weather-Stripping: Present on top and sides and bottom
Weather-stripping on doors should be maintained as necessary. Most types or good substitutes can be found at home maintenance stores.
TYPES OF WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- Foam Compression Type Weather Strip
BOTTOM OF DOOR WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- Weather-stripping is present on bottom of door
THRESHOLD WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- Adjustable Type
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Lockset & Security Mechanisms: Functioned under test
Dead-bolt: none present
EAST GARAGE EXTERIOR DOOR CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the exterior doors of the home. All should be evaluated, repaired and maintained as deemed necessary by a qualified door installation contractor or other qualified party. Concerns will be documented in the pictures below but should not be construed to be all inclusive but instead more representative:
OUT SWING:
- Not security type hinges for out-swing type door. For improved security the hinges on this out-swing type door should be replaced with security-pin type hinges. This prevents removal of the pins from the exterior when the door is closed.
STRUCTURE/SURFACE:
- 🔹Shows distress consistent with age. The door could benefit from upgrading for energy efficiency and safety. They had cosmetic as well as defects related to age and use. Replacement of the doors can improve overall energy efficiency of the home as well as improve security of the home. Until these doors can be replaced, maintain the door well painted and sealed to protect the home from damage from the elements.
- 🔹distress consistent with weathering/exposure
- 🔹some rot/decay in door
- 🔹steel clad type doors with bottom wood edges not sealed
- Steel clad type doors with bottom wood edges not sealed. Steel clad insulated doors have a wood frame behind the metal. This wood must be kept well sealed maintained especially along the bottom of the door to prevent damage from water that can splash against the jamb and weather-stripping and wick around the metal cladding and into the wood. This condition is exacerbated by draft-stop materials installed in the area that the edge of the door closes against. This is particularly problematic on doors exposed to the weather side of the home. Preventing this kind of damage on this type of door can be difficult. Other types of flashings and weather-stripping are available to minimize the chances of damage but keeping the area well painted and sealed should be considered the first line of defense. Once decay has begun it is likely the entire door will need to be replaced.
BOTTOM OF DOOR WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- 🔹weather-Stripping in poor condition
- 🔹loose/Not properly attached
THRESHOLD WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- 🔹none Present
HINGES:
- 🔹missing screws
LOCKSET & SECURITY:
- 🔹🚩Security pin enters strike plate. It is common in homes for the lock-set security pin to enter the strike plate hole. When this happens the door can be unlocked from the outside with a credit card (in-swing type) and from the outside with a knife (out-swing type). The strike plates should be adjusted toward the weather stripping to make the door more secure. Adjustments should be made so that the pin does not enter the strike plate when closed.
- 🔹latch can be "knifed" to gain entry. The door is not secure because latch can be "knifed" to gain entry, and installation of a dead-bolt is recommended..
DEAD-BOLT:
- 🔹none present
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
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Overhead Door (Auto-opener present)
Overhead Door: Partially inspected and opener is present
At the time of inspection the overhead door was not inspected because of the presence of: vehicles. I recommend that the door be fully inspected by a qualified party per DASMA standards (attached below).
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
Door Constructed of: Metal Insulated
Door Conditions: No defects noted
Tracks & rollers & hinges: No defects noted
While "no defects" were noted, this should not be construed to mean that every single bolt and fastener was checked in the course of the inspection. Ongoing checking and monitoring is advised.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence
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Lifting points: Interior Lift handle was present, Exterior Lift point was present
Lift Cables & Drums: No issues noted
Top & Sides Weather-stripping: Present
Bottom of Door Weather-stripping: Present
You should be able to lift the door smoothly and with little resistance. It should stay open around three or four feet above the floor. If it does not, it is out of adjustment. Have it adjusted by a qualified service person.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
Torsion Tube & Springs: No defects noted
Interior Security mechanisms: Interior locking/unlocking mechanisms functioned, Latches on one side
Manual operation/Door Balance: General information
You should be able to lift the door smoothly and with little resistance. It should stay open around three or four feet above the floor. If it does not, it is out of adjustment. Have it adjusted by a qualified service person.
🔍 Due Diligence
Automatic Opener: Door security information🛑, Automatic Opener Post 1990
The Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act of 1990 mandated that automatic residential garage door operators manufactured on or after January 1, 1991 conform to the entrapment protection requirements (reversing mechanisms) of the 1988 version of UL 325. You should be able to lift the door smoothly and with little resistance. It should stay open around three or four feet above the floor. If it does not, it is out of adjustment. Have it adjusted by a qualified service person. Be aware the overhead door security mechanism is extremely vulnerable to to being tampered with by unauthorized persons. There are ways to protect against this tampering. There are guards that can be installed and even a simple zip tie around the manual release can help. Transparent glass in the door also makes unauthorized entry easier and covering them or having them replaced with translucent glass can help.
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Manufacturers installation instructions require that garage door opener buttons be located more than 60" above the floor to prevent use by small children.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS (UL & CPSC)
WARNING-To reduce the risk of severe injury or death:
- READ AND FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS.
- NEVER LET CHILDREN OPERATE OR PLAY WITH THE DOOR CONTROLS. Keep remote control away from children.
- Always keep the moving door in sight and away from people, pets and objects until it is completely closed. NO ONE SHOULD CROSS THE PATH OF A MOVING DOOR.
- TEST THE DOOR OPERATOR MONTHLY. The garage door MUST reverse on contact with a 1-1/2 inch high object (or a piece of two-by-four lumber laid flat) on the floor. If the door doesn't stop and reverse after contact with the object, disconnect the operator and use the door manually until the operator is replaced or repaired by a qualified technician.
- When possible. USE THE EMERGENCY RELEASE ONLY WHEN THE DOOR IS CLOSED. Use caution when using this release with the door open. Weak or broken springs are capable of increasing the rate of door closure and increasing the risk of severe injury or death.
- KEEP GARAGE DOORS PROPERLY BALANCED. See owner's manual. An improperly balanced door increases the risk of severe injury or death. Have a qualified service person make repairs to cables, spring assemblies and other hardware. This informational note not repeated for other overhead doors to reduce repetition.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
.PNG)
Force Control: adjustable settings
For the overhead door to reverse properly the up and down force setting must be adjusted properly along with the distance of travel settings. If the UP and DOWN setting are not between 3 and 5 (or midway) in the range, caution must be exercised in testing the reversing functions. Some doors have force settings that are programmable instead of having adjustment screws. You will need the owner's manual for these types of openers.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence
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Manufacturer: Craftsman/Sears
✅DASMA TESTING PROTOCOLS (Part B), How to test and inspect your overhead: door
For additional information on proper maintenance and testing of garage doors see: Overhead Door DASMA Testing Protocols and the attached inspection checklists. These testing instructions will not be repeated for other overhead doors to minimize repetition. This checklist covers a basic inspection of a residential sectional garage door connected to an automatic garage door operator. These protocols should be no substitute for the actual manufacturer instructions. The protocol is a recognized testing procedure developed by the association of overhead door manufacturers.
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❗Answering "no🛑" to 2,3,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12, or 13 would justify halting testing per DASMA 167: 🛑 not tested, see stopping points below
1. Warning labels: ▫
a. A spring warning label is present: no
b. There is a general warning label attached to a door panel: no
General Label: Not determined
c. There is a warning label at the opener button: no
2❗ Are all hardware parts securely and appropriately attached? (most components discussed above--prior to DASMA requirements): yes
3❗ Is spring containment present?: yes
4. Door panels: ▫
a❗ Are door panels free of any signs of fatigue (mechanical damage etc): yes
b❗ Are door panels free of any sign of cracking?: yes
c❗ Are door panels free of any signs of separation of materials?: yes
5. Red manual release handle is present?: yes
a. Lamps: present, Cover missing, Lamp cover out of place
There is no lamp cover installed on the north door opener. I recommend a proper lamp cover be installed by homeowner/handy-person or an overhead door installation company as desired.
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6. Wall Station Push-Button: present
a❗ Are push buttons in clear view of the door?: Yes
b❗ Are all push buttons >60" above the adjacent floor?: yes
d. Remote control device: None seen--I recommend asking seller
. Other than to perhaps use the remote control to operate the door, the devices are not inspected and function often is not determined. Sometimes I will note locations where they seen. They have batteries that need to be maintained. If it does not function, the batteries should be the first thing checked. Sometimes LED and CFL bulbs can interfere with operation but this is less common with newer bulbs.
NOT LOCATED:
- The remote control devices for the door were not located. I recommend asking the seller for the remotes.
📝 Informational note
7❗ Manual locking mechanism has been removed/disabled?: no 🛑
8. Door operation (manual): ▫, Not tested due to vehicle in garage
9. Door Operation (With Push Button): .
a❗ Does the garage door have at least one working wall mounted push button.: yes
b❗ Does the door fully open and stop above the opening.: yes
c❗ Does the door fully close and rest on the floor with no gap.: Yes
10❗ Is an electrical outlet with receptacle within 3 feet of the operator?: Yes
11. Secondary Entrapment Features: Photo-electric sensors
a❗ Are photo-electric sensors <6" above the floor: no🛑
Few door opener manufacturers have a recommendation of the minimum height the sensor should be above the floor, only a maximum of 6" above. For proper testing of the reversing mechanism, the block placed perpendicular to the door is considered best practice and so if the beam was lower than 1-1/2" it would interrupt the sensors. A block placed in line with the door might allow the block to tip. Also many floors hump in the middle of the door and the sensor would need to clear such a hump.
📝 Informational note
i. Photo-electric sensor results: Not tested due to vehicle in garage
a. 2x4 reversal results: Not tested
GARAGE OVERHEAD DOOR:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the door installation:
TESTING:
- Not tested
MANUAL OPERATION/DOOR BALANCE:
- Not opened
DASMA TESTING:
- Stopping points:
- 🔹due to vehicles in garage. When there are automobiles in the garage at the time of inspection the auto-reversing functions of the door are not tested because of possible damage to the vehicles if testing were to result in collapse of the door. I recommend that all reversing functions be properly tested---see testing instructions in the Notes and Information portion of the report---and the testing procedures attached to
A qualified overhead door installation contractor should evaluate and repair the door as deemed necessary and then the opener device should be fully tested per DASMA protocols.
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GARAGE OVERHEAD DOOR AUTOMATIC OPENER:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the automatic opener that should be addressed.
CONDITIONS:
- 🚩Automatic Opener Prior to 1982. Due to the age of this overhead door automatic opener may not be equipped with an auto-reversing mechanism. Auto-reversing mechanisms were not required prior to 1982 (although some manufacturers started installing them in the early 1970's). Automatic door openers that do not have reversing functions or where it cannot be determined at the time of inspection that it has reversing function, are not tested. Upgrading non-reversing type door openers or openers without sensor beams is recommended.
MANUAL LOCKING MECHANISM:
- Manual lock still functional. When garage doors have automatic opening devices, the Manual Lock Mechanism should be disabled/removed. This represents a serious safety issue as the opener can tear away from its attachments or force the door out of its tracks causing injury and damage to persons and property. I recommend that a qualified garage door company be contacted to remove/disable this mechanism as required.
TESTING:
- Not tested
WARNING LABELS:
- Warning label at opener button:
- 🔹label missing
- 🔹NOT Present consistent with age of opener (pre-1990)
REMOTE CONTROL:
- None seen--I recommend asking seller
PHOTO-SENSOR REVERSAL:
- 🔹not present--consistent with age of opener
2x4 REVERSAL:
- Not tested:
- 🔹vehicles in garage. When there are vehicles in the garage at the time of inspection the auto-reversing functions of the door are not tested because of possible damage to the vehicle if testing were to result in collapse of the door. I recommend that all reversing functions be properly tested--see testing instructions in the Notes and Information portion of the report
I recommend evaluation, repairs and maintenance by a qualified overhead door installation company or other qualified party.
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Inspection Limitations / Exclusions Related to the Garage
Garage Limitations and Exclusions: Present
LIMITATIONS TO INSPECTION OF GARAGE:
- 🔹Storage in garage
- 🔹Built-in structures inside garage
- 🔹Vehicle(s) in garage
- 🔹Overhead doors partially inspected
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🧱BASEMENT Foundation
Foundation/Footings/Framing
Basement Foundation: Poured Concrete Foundation/Stem Wall
Basement Foundation Footings: not visible
Conditions of Foundation: consistent with age in visible areas
Foundation Sealing/Coating: Not determined
Cracks/Settlement/Uplift/Movement: Cracking typical of age and type of construction
I noted no large cracks (greater than 1/4" or smaller cracks that cumulatively would add up to more than 1/4") at the time of inspection but that should not be construed to mean there are none considering that so little of the foundation is visible.
POSSIBLE LOCATIONS:
- Too little of foundation is visible at the exterior to determine how much cracking there is
- It would be extremely unusual for a home of this age and type of construction to not have some cracks and settlement
- Too much of basement is finished or otherwise not accessible to determine how much efflorescence there is
TYPICAL CRACKING:
TYPICAL SMALL CRACKS:
- Typical small cracks were noted in the foundation. The purpose of the foundation is to connect the weight of the building to well-compacted soils below the house so that the house does not move or settle. Concrete cracking can indicate poorly compacted soils below the house which could require a repair, but small cracks such as these can also be a sign of typical concrete shrinkage. It is not possible to determine the cause of these cracks during a visual inspection. The easiest way to prevent on-going settlement in buildings is by controlling roof runoff and site drainage to promote dry soils around the foundation; wet soils do not bear weight well. This will also help to prevent crawl space moisture problems. In my experience, small cracks like these are common in concrete foundations of this age/type of construction.
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Basement Efflorescence: Some Present
Water that moves through masonry in a liquid state can result in the formation of efflorescence, which can disfigure the face of masonry/concrete structures. Migrating water dissolves salts from inside the concrete/brick and then deposits them on the surface as the water evaporates. Usually it is not destructive, only disfiguring. Sealing the surface of a wall in this situation can lead to spalling (exfoliation) of the surface and is therefore not recommended.
WHERE PRESENT:
- Too much of basement is finished to determine how much efflorescence there is
- Present on basement walls.
- 🔹none to Minimal in areas that can be seen
- 🔹typical of age/type of construction
- 🔹localized
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Basement Honeycombing: Some present
Honeycombing is large voids or bubbles in poured concrete. It shows up as voids in the face of the concrete. Large pieces of aggregate are surrounded by air. This condition is caused by insufficient compaction of the concrete and represents a "weakness" in the wall both in terms of water penetration and possibly structurally.
SOME PRESENT:
- NOT likely a concern structurally
- Typical of time of construction
📝 Informational note
Foundation Sill Plate: Majority of foundation sill plate NOT visible
Foundation Anchors: Bolting/Strapping/Anchoring
While this report will either document bolting or not, determining whether a foundation is adequately bolted is not possible. Over the years there have been many changes in the requirements of bolting and whether this building meets all the requirements of the time of construction likewise cannot be determined. Obvious deficiencies will be noted below with any recommendations in the narratives of the observations below.
BOLTING/STRAPPING/ANCHORING:
- Not visible/not determined
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Basement Space Moisture: Past/Ongoing Moisture in Basement Space
Moisture concerns were noted in the basement space. See the Narrative below as to other recommendations.
PAST/ONGOING MOISTURE:
- Water stains on walls
- Water stains on framing
- Efflorescence present
- Past plumbing leaks
- Past leaking at foundation cracks
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BASEMENT CONCERNS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Foundation. The foundation has significant and multiple issues. I recommend that a qualified foundation contractor, who utilizes the services of a licensed structural engineer to design any repairs deemed necessary, be consulted to determine the necessity for repairs, to estimate costs and perform repairs and improvements deemed necessary.
FOUNDATION CONCERNS:
- 🔹cracks
FOUNDATION CONDITIONS:
- 🔹past leaks
EFFLORESCENCE/HONEYCOMBING:
- 🔹localized
SILL PLATE:
- 🔹NON-treated foundation sill plate
ANCHORS:
- 🔹lack of attachment to the foundation is typical of age and type of construction.
WINDOW WELLS:
- 🔹window wells missing. The basement windows are too close to the ground at the exterior and could benefit from installation of proper window wells to prevent damage to the window sills and other components. I recommend installation of window wells by a qualified party. Some amount of hidden damage should be anticipated and repaired as deemed necessary.
FLOOR FRAMING:
- 🔹generally floor joists undersized by current standards but additional mid span supports help offset this under sizing
🔥FIRE BLOCKING/DRAFT STOPPING:
- 🔹Wiring holes from lower spaces to upper spaces (through sill plates etc) not caulked/sealed--typical of age and type of construction
- 🔹Plumbing Pipes from lower spaces to upper spaces (through sill plates etc) not caulked/sealed --typical of age and type of construction
- 🔹B-Vent Pipes from lower spaces to upper spaces (through sill plates etc) not fire-stopped
- 🔹Opening from basement space around tub drain--typical of age and type of construction
SUPPORT BEAMS:
- 🔹improperly supported beams
- 🔹over-spanned beams
WOOD JOISTS:
- 🔹improper notches in joists. Per modern requirements there are improper holes in the joists at _____. I recommend evaluation/repairs as deemed necessary by a qualified framing contractor or other qualified party. Sometimes repairs to this condition require the services of a licensed structural engineer.
RIM JOIST INSULATION:
- 🔹none. The rim joists around the perimeter of the basement are not properly insulated. This can make floors in the room above very cold and wastes energy.
WALL SURFACE INSULATION:
- 🔹none
The pictures below should be considered representative of the issues and is not meant to be all inclusive. Other issues should be anticipated.
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Building Framing
Type of floor system over basement: Floor System Framing (prior to 2000)
Homes of this age were often constructed without many of the metal fasteners/hangers that would be typical of modern construction. For example openings in floor systems for chimneys and stairwells and crawl space access openings could often benefit from installation of metal hangers. I recommend evaluation/installation of hangers where deemed necessary by a qualified general contractor--perhaps in the context of other repairs done to the home.
- ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Floor Framing Visibility (primary floor system) (basement ceiling joists): Floor system partially visible due to finishes, Generally floor joists undersized by current standards, Generally floor joists undersized by current standards but additional mid span supports help offset this under sizing
Seismic Upgrade: NO evidence of seismic retrofit, In many cases older homes can benefit from seismic upgrades
Seismic upgrade may be suggested, but is not a mandatory requirement. (With the exception of seismic strapping of newer water heaters, there is no state law requiring a seller to bring an older home into compliance with current earthquake resistance requirements). However, seismic improvements are prudent, and if done properly, can significantly limit structural damage in the event of a severe earthquake.
Effective seismic upgrading consists of:
- Installing additional anchor bolts to adequately attach wood sills to the concrete foundation. This is only necessary when the existing bolts do not meet current building standards.
- Adding plywood sheets known as shear panels, nailed to the "cripple walls" to prevent collapse of those walls when lateral seismic forces are exerted against the building. Cripple walls are the short framed walls that extend from the top of the foundation to the base of the floor structure.
- Installing hold-down brackets to secure "cripple walls" to the anchor bolts. This ensures that the wall studs will not separate from the wood sills during a quake.
- Reinforcing post and beam connections with plywood gussets or T-straps to ensure against separation or displacement.
- In many homes, the floor joists are installed directly on the sill plates, rather than on "cripple walls." In such cases, the second and third recommendations above do not apply. Instead, add tie-down brackets to ensure secure attachment of the floor structure to the wood sills.
- Not determine if permits were drawn.
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Basement Fire-blocking/Draft-stopping: General Information on Fire-blocking
Finish surfaces and/or insulation can conceal missing fire-blocking. When the basement space is fully finished off and/or insulated, evaluation of fire-blocking deficiencies is not usually possible.
Requirements for fire-blocking and draft-stopping in homes has changed over the years and varied from jurisdiction to jurisdiction. In general more modern requirements call for "blocking" the spread of fire from lower level spaces to upper level spaces. Some structures also have requirements for installation of protection against the flow of fire horizontally. To achieve this there are specific requirements as to sealing/blocking of spaces around pipes, ducts, chimneys, wiring, framing, laundry chutes, chases etc.
It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if all fire-blocking and/or draft-stopping is in place, but where it is "obviously" missing I attempt to identify the condition/location and recommend appropriate repairs for improved fire safety.
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Support Beams: Dimensional wood beams
Support Posts/Columns: Types of posts/columns not determined
Sub-floor: Mostly not visible, type not determined, wood boards visible in some areas
Wood Joists: Wood Joists: 2x6, 24"oc, Joist hangers not present--typical of time of construction, Spacing of joists is a visual approximation and can vary 2-4 inches in older homes., Based on very small unfinished areas
Per modern standards there are joist hangers missing at locations like chimney penetrations etc. This was common in older construction and most installations are considered satisfactory. Sometimes brackets can be added as an upgrade. Sometimes it is appropriate to make improvements in the context of other repairs/remodeling done at the home. No further recommendation at this time.
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Basement Space/Ground Floor, Wall, Ceiling finishes
Basement Space: Finished surfaces restrict structural evaluations
In addition to the obvious fact that finished surfaces may restrict structural evaluations, it should be noted that no evaluations are made regarding local permits or approvals for such work or use. Compliance regarding egress, escape & rescue, plumbing, heating or electric requirements should be determined by contacting local building officials.
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Floors: Floors not finished
Walls: on foundation, but some interior walls/partitions were finished
Ceilings: Fully finished except for areas at:, east side of basement
Basement Insulation
INSULATION: not present
Rim Joist Insulation: Not insulated
Wall Surface Insulation: not insulated
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Basement Foundation
Basement Limitations/Exclusions: Present
LIMITATIONS RELATED TO FINISHED BASEMENT:
- 🔹Some Basement Floors/Walls/Ceilings Finished/covered not visible
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🧱SOUTH CRAWL SPACE Foundation
Crawl Space Footings/Foundation/Access
Crawl Space Foundation type: Poured Concrete Foundation/Stem Wall
Crawl Space Foundation Footings: Not visible
Conditions of Foundation: No adverse conditions noted
Foundation Sealing/Coating: Not determined
Cracks/Settlement/Uplift/Movement: small cracks typical of age and type of construction
I noted no large cracks (greater than 1/4" or smaller cracks that cumulatively would add up to more than 1/4") at the time of inspection but that should not be construed to mean there are none considering that so little of the foundation is visible.
TYPICAL CRACKING:
- Cracks in the foundations of homes this age are common. I recommend that any cracks discovered by homeowner/handy-person be patched with expansive concrete. This will help keep out moisture and small insects and make monitoring for further movement easier. Significant cracking after repairs are made would indicate the need for further evaluation by a licensed structural engineer.
- 🔹General Cracking Information
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Crawl Space Efflorescence: Some Present
Water that moves through masonry in a liquid state can result in the formation of efflorescence, which can disfigure the face of masonry/concrete structures. Migrating water dissolves salts from inside the concrete/brick and then deposits them on the surface as the water evaporates. Usually it is not destructive, only disfiguring. Sealing the surface of a wall in this situation can lead to spalling (exfoliation) of the surface and is therefore not recommended.
WHERE PRESENT:
- None to Minimal
- Typical of age/type of construction
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Foundation Sill Plate: Majority of foundation sill plate NOT visible
Foundation Anchors: Bolting/Strapping/Anchoring
While this report will either document bolting or not, determining whether a foundation is adequately bolted is not possible. Over the years there have been many changes in the requirements of bolting and whether this building meets all the requirements of the time of construction likewise cannot be determined. Obvious deficiencies will be noted below with any recommendations in the narratives of the observations below.
BOLTING/STRAPPING/ANCHORING:
- Not visible/not determined due to insulation and/or methods of construction
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Seismic Provisions: NO evidence of seismic retrofit
Crawl Space Access: Access from the interior of the building
While I take care to protect the home from debris that might be inevitably carried out of the crawl space, some amount of impact should always be anticipated, as crawl spaces are often dusty, dirty, muddy, rodent infested, and cob web filled spaces. Most of these materials are easily vacuumed up and typically the inspector is at the property to inspect the crawl space and the inspector should not be expected to have the equipment necessary to clean these materials up satisfactorily.
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Basement Access: Present
Crawl Space Moisture: None Seen
SOUTH CRAWL SPACE CONCERNS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Foundation. The foundation has failed. I recommend that a qualified foundation contractor, who utilizes the services of a licensed structural engineer to design any repairs deemed necessary, be consulted to determine the necessity for repairs, to estimate costs and perform repairs and improvements deemed necessary.
SILL PLATE:
- 🔹NON-treated foundation sill plate--typical of age and type of construction.
ANCHORS:
- 🔹lack of attachment to the foundation is typical of age and type of construction.
- Not visible/not determined
- 🔹due to insulation and/or methods of construction
CRAWL SPACE ACCESS:
- Access opening wrong size (minimum size is 18"x24"). The access opening to the crawl space is the wrong size and difficult to access for proper inspection/maintenance of the crawl space.
- 🔹Less than 18" x 24"
- 🔹NOT traversed
- 🔹Viewed from opening due to small size, space should be further evaluated by a qualified party
ACCESS SEALING/INSULATION:
- 🔹insulation/Weather-Stripping missing / but recommended. When the crawl space access is from heated spaces the access door is required by current standards to be insulated and weather-stripped for improved energy efficiency. The interior of the home is under negative pressure in relation to the crawl space and large amounts of crawl space air can be drawn into the home.
FLOOR FRAMING:
- 🔹generally floor joists undersized by current standards. Improvements may be warranted.
VAPOR RETARDER:
- 🔹displacement noted (bare ground exposed)
VENTILATION:
- 🔹improvements to ventilation necessary
- Vent locations covered over on exterior
INSULATION:
- Insulation not in "permanent contact" with sub-floor. Modern insulation requirements call for floor insulation to be installed in permanent contact with the sub-floor decking. The current installation is installed such that the insulation is entirely flush with the bottom of the floor joists leaving a uniform gap above the insulation of approximately _____ inches--not in contact with the sub-floor in all areas checked.
CEILING CAVITY INSULATION:
- 🔹vapor Barrier on Wrong Side
- 🔹displacement of insulation noted
The pictures below should be considered representative of the issues and is not meant to be all inclusive. Other issues should be anticipated.
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Building framing
Type of floor system over crawl space: Dirt Floor, Dimensional wood
Floor Framing Visibility (primary floor system) (crawl space ceiling joists): Floor system partially visible due to insulation, Generally floor joists undersized by current standards but additional mid span supports help offset this under sizing
Support Beams: Dimensional wood beams
Sub-floor: Not visible, type not determined
Wood Joists: Wood Joists: 2x6, 24"oc
Crawl Space Ventilation / Insulation / Vapor Retarder
Crawl Space Ventilation: Foundation Vents, Venting crawl spaces in the winter
In the Pacific Northwest, we ventilate our crawl spaces in the winter if they are the vented type. It is critical to maintaining appropriate moisture levels that the space be properly vented. In other parts of the country it is common practice to seal the vents in the winter, but because the winter is when moisture levels in the crawl space are lowered after increasing during the more humid summer months. Sealing the vents in the winter can have disastrous consequences for the space. Make sure your crawl space is properly vented. WHY would you do that?
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INSULATION: present
Ceiling Cavity Insulation: Fiberglass
VAPOR RETARDER/GROUND COVER: Present
Crawl Space Vapor Retarder: Black Plastic
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Crawl Space Foundation
Crawl Space Limitations/Exclusions: Floors above crawl space Insulated / Not Visible, Present
The following limitations and exclusions were noted in relation to the crawl space:
LIMITATIONS/EXCLUSIONS:
- 🔹Very little of Foundation Walls visible at exterior
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🐞Wood Destroying Organisms and Conducive Conditions Related to the Crawl Space
🐞CRAWL SPACE FOUNDATION Wood Decay/Rot: Conducive Conditions
Wood Decay Fungi (wood rot), are filamentous organisms which begin as microscopic spores that land on the surface of wood, and germinate to produce thin strand like cells called hyphae. Hyphae grow through the wood and secrete enzymes which degrade and weaken the wood. Decay requires: (1)adequate moisture, (2)ambient temperature (32º to 110º), (3) oxygen, (4) a food source. Wood moisture levels above 20-30% are considered conducive to wood fungal rot. Damaged wood typically will need to be replaced. Ultimately the source of moisture must be eliminated even if all of the fungal organism cannot be eliminated.
CONDUCIVE CONDITIONS:
- This list of conditions conducive to wood destroying organisms (rot and insects) related to the crawl space of the home is not specific and is only designed to comply with reporting requirements of the WSDA . More details are provided at specific locations within the report. Conducive conditions were noted as relates to:
- inadequate ventilation
- no ventilation
- areas of missing ground cover/vapor retarder
- elevated humidity
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🧱CRAWL SPACE FOUNDATION Under Laundry
Crawl Space Footings/Foundation/Access
Crawl Space Foundation type: Poured Concrete Foundation/Stem Wall
Crawl Space Foundation Footings: Not visible
Conditions of Foundation: No adverse conditions noted
Cracks/Settlement/Uplift/Movement: None seen
I noted no large cracks (greater than 1/4" or smaller cracks that cumulatively would add up to more than 1/4") at the time of inspection but that should not be construed to mean there are none considering that so little of the foundation is visible.
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Foundation Sill Plate: Majority of foundation sill plate NOT visible
Foundation Anchors: not visible not determined
Seismic Provisions: NO evidence of seismic retrofit
Crawl Space Access: Access, NE exterior of building
Crawl spaces are particularly prone to wood deterioration or damage. Proper ventilation and moisture barriers should be maintained. Check periodically for potential concerns.
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Exterior Access: Present, Access Door appears vermin-proof and water-tight
Crawl Space Moisture: Elevated Moisture readings indicated by moisture meter
Moisture issues were noted related to the crawl space. See the narrative below for additional information.
ELEVATED MOISTURE:
- Throughout crawl space (random sampling of posts, beams, joists)
- Lack of ventilation
HOW MOISTURE IS GETTING IN:
- Not determined--further evaluation/monitoring is recommended
- Wet ground under vapor barrier
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LAUNDRY CRAWL SPACE CONCERNS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Foundation. The foundation has failed. I recommend that a qualified foundation contractor, who utilizes the services of a licensed structural engineer to design any repairs deemed necessary, be consulted to determine the necessity for repairs, to estimate costs and perform repairs and improvements deemed necessary.
ANCHORS:
- Not visible/not determined
CRAWL SPACE ACCESS:
- 🔹NOT traversed, viewed from opening only
VENTILATION:
- 🔹improvements to ventilation necessary
- 🔹seasonal vent covers. These vent covers are often installed in the winter when (in the Northwest) they are needed to be open to help control crawl space humidity levels.
- Vent locations covered over on exterior
- 🔹deck installation
CEILING CAVITY INSULATION:
- 🔹none
The pictures below should be considered representative of the issues and is not meant to be all inclusive. Other issues should be anticipated.
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Building framing
Type of floor system over crawl space: Dimensional wood, Dirt Floor
Sub-floor: Plywood Sub-Floor
Wood Joists: Wood Joists: (2)2x6, 16"oc
Crawl Space Ventilation / Insulation / Vapor Retarder
Crawl Space Ventilation: Foundation Vents
INSULATION: none present
VAPOR RETARDER/GROUND COVER: Present
Crawl Space Vapor Retarder: Black Plastic
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Crawl Space Foundation
Crawl Space Limitations/Exclusions: Present
The following limitations and exclusions were noted in relation to the crawl space:
LIMITATIONS/EXCLUSIONS:
- 🔹Partial access
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🐞Wood Destroying Organisms and Conducive Conditions Related to the Crawl Space
🐞CRAWL SPACE FOUNDATION Wood Decay/Rot: Conducive Conditions
Wood Decay Fungi (wood rot), are filamentous organisms which begin as microscopic spores that land on the surface of wood, and germinate to produce thin strand like cells called hyphae. Hyphae grow through the wood and secrete enzymes which degrade and weaken the wood. Decay requires: (1)adequate moisture, (2)ambient temperature (32º to 110º), (3) oxygen, (4) a food source. Wood moisture levels above 20-30% are considered conducive to wood fungal rot. Damaged wood typically will need to be replaced. Ultimately the source of moisture must be eliminated even if all of the fungal organism cannot be eliminated.
CONDUCIVE CONDITIONS:
- This list of conditions conducive to wood destroying organisms (rot and insects) related to the crawl space of the home is not specific and is only designed to comply with reporting requirements of the WSDA . More details are provided at specific locations within the report. Conducive conditions were noted as relates to:
- no ventilation
- elevated humidity
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
ROOF
Roof General Information
Roof Inspection: Inspected
Inspection methods: Walked on, Some areas not walked on, metal roof viewed from upper roof
Roof Configuration: Gable
Gable Area Slopes: 5/12±, 6/12± over the laundry areas
Layers of Roofing: Not determined
A determination should be made at the time of re-roofing as to whether or not ripping off of the existing layers and/or roof decking work will be necessary. Roof loading, local requirements or the need to provide a firm base for the new roofing are some of the factors to consider.
🔍 Due Diligence
Extra Roof Materials were noted in: None seen ask seller
Moss/Lichen/Algae: Moss growth present, Black streaking (algae growth) present
Present leaks: None seen
ROOF GENERAL CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the roof. I recommend evaluation, repairs and maintenance of the roof by a qualified roofing contractor. Conditions related to specific types of roof coverings will be discussed below. The conditions should not be construed to be all inclusive but instead more representative:
MOSS/LICHEN/ALGAE:
- 🔹Moss growth, preventing evaluation
- 🔹Enough moss growth to limit inspection of surface in areas. The roof has enough growth to limit inspection of the surface. I recommend the roof be professionally cleaned by a qualified party. Air or Water pressure washing is not recommended. After cleaning I recommend I be called back to evaluate the condition of the roof.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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Dimensional Composition Shingles
Dimensional Composition Shingles (25-35 year rated): present
"Guesstimate" of age: How is the age determined?, 10 - 15 years old
Many criteria are used to "guesstimate" the age of the roof. Listing information, age of home, assessor information, google map drive-by pictures, disclosure statements, deterioration or lack thereof, of pipe flashings, exposure, date stamps on pipe flashings, roof type and color, and experience. One or more of these indicators are used to make this judgment--it is NOT absolute and should not be taken as such.
📝 Informational note
Underlayment: General information slopes 4/12 and greater
Underlayment is required under finish roof coverings of most types of roofing in modern construction. While evidence was visible at the eaves, it cannot be determined how complete the coverage is in covered areas. Roofs under 4/12 typically require multiple layers or ice & water-shield or both. Determining the presence and appropriateness of underlayment is beyond the scope of this inspection.
For roof slopes of 4/12 or greater, underlayment shall be one layer applied in the following manner: underlayment shall be applied shingle fashion, parallel to and starting from the eave and lapped 2 inches, Distortions in the underlayment shall not interfere with the ability of the shingles to seal. End laps shall be 4 inches and shall be offset by 6 feet.
🔍Due Diligence
Method of Shingle Attachment/Sealing: 3/8" head nails present
Mechanical Damage: Cosmetic concerns only
DIMENSIONAL SHINGLE CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the roof surface that should be evaluated, repaired and maintained by a qualified roofing contractor as deemed necessary. The pictures below document some of the concerns related to this roof and should not be construed to mean there are no other conditions that need to be addressed. Hidden damage is common with roofs. I recommend factoring replacement of the roof within 3 years.
GENERAL CONDITIONS:
- Conditions:
- 🔹considerable failure of seal-down strips
UNDERLAYMENT:
- 🔹visible at eaves
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence 🐞 WDO’s
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Metal Roof
Metal Roof: 30-50 year life span
Metal roofs can be extremely slippery (not just when wet) and maintenance should be performed by qualified roof maintenance professionals taking proper safety precautions.
TYPE OF ROOFING MATERIALS:
- Steel
- standing seam
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
"Guesstimate" of age: 20 - 25 years old
Metal Roof Conditions: Edge cap present
Method of Roof Attachment: Not visible/Not determined--concealed fastener type installation
Underlayment: General information for metal roofing, Not determined/not verified
Underlayment is required under finish roof coverings of most types of roofing in modern construction. While evidence was visible eaves, it cannot be determined how complete the coverage is in covered areas. Roofs under 4/12 typically require multiple layers or ice & water-shield or both. Determining the presence and appropriateness of underlayment is beyond the scope of this inspection. Installation requirements are per manufacturer instructions, and again, this cannot be determined in the course of a standard home inspection.
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
Exposed Fasteners on Roof: Screws, gasket type
Present Leaks: None seen
METAL ROOF CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the roof surface that should be evaluated, repaired and maintained by a qualified roofing contractor as deemed necessary. The pictures below document some of the concerns related to this roof and should not be construed to mean there are no other conditions that need to be addressed. Hidden damage is common with roofs. I recommend factoring replacement of the roof within 3 years.
METAL ROOF CONCERNS:
- 🔹at ridge there is a gap of unknown purpose. This should be evaluated as to whether it is adequate to keep wind driven rain out of the structure.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence 🐞 WDO’s
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Flashings Related to Roof
Rake Flashings: Present
Rake flashings were noted where required. These flashings are necessary to keep water from running under the shingles. This can cause wood decay/rot to the sheathing as well as the fascia.
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Roof to Wall Flashings: Present where checked
Roof-to-wall flashings were noted where required. These flashings are necessary to keep water from running under the shingles. This can cause wood decay/rot to the sheathing as well as the fascia.
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Barge Rafter flashings: Present
Where barge rafters extend past the edge of the roof to conceal the end of the gutter in a decorative function, flashings are required to protect the top edge from wood decay/rot.
Flashed with:
- shingles
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Asphalt shingle valleys: California cut, overlapping type installation
Dish Antenna: Present at
FLASHINGS RELATED TO THE ROOF:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the roof flashings.
EAVE FLASHINGS:
- 🔹eave flashings NOT present/roofing materials overhanging gutters--consistent with age of roof. Modern roof installations (installed after July 1st 2014) are required to have metal flashings installed along the eaves of the roof. They are not present on this roof consistent with installation prior to that date. Damage to the edge of the sheathing is common and some amount of repairs should be anticipated when the roof is replaced. It likely would not be considered practical to install these flashings prior to roof replacement.
DISH ANTENNA:
- 🔹attached to roof through surface of shingles. The satellite dish is mounted directly over the roof shingles. No determination could be made as to how of if sealing of this attachment was done. Improper sealing of these attachments can lead to damage to the roof structure. Maintaining seals on these connections is I recommended. Relocation to a type of bracket that doesn't penetrate the roof covering is a better solution.
- 🔹will need routine maintenance of seals to keep water out of roof
- 🔹hidden damage with these installations is common--relocating to side wall is recommended
The pictures below document some of the issues and a full evaluation and repairs of these conditions by a qualified roofing contractor is recommended.
🚩CAUTIONS:
- These repairs should be done as soon as possible to prevent water damage to underlying structures.
- Hidden damage should be anticipated.
- Repairs to any of these flashing details should always include evaluation and repair of any covered structures.
🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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Main Attic
Attic Location, Access and Limitations: Access location, from living room
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Inspection Method: Traversed areas with adequate clearances, no access to some areas
There was poor access to the attic space due to inadequate clearances, storage and Ductwork. The immediate area around the access hatch was all that could be viewed. There can be concerns in attic spaces relating to wiring, roof ventilation, wiring, vermin, insulation, and leaking--among other concerns. Care must be exercised in entering these spaces, and entering them at the time of inspection would have been considered "invasive" and therefor was not done. Concerns should be anticipated.
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Roof Construction: Conventional, "stick-built"
Joists: Not visible in some areas
Joist size: Wood Joists: 2x4, 16"oc, Spacing of joists/rafters is a visual approximation and can vary 2-4 inches in older homes.
Rafters: Not visible in some areas
Rafter Size: Wood Rafters: 2x4, 24"oc
Roof Sheathing: OSB, 3/4" Solid Board, 3/4" Spaced Boards, "skip-sheathing" indicative of the house originally having wood shingle/shake roof
Attic/Roof Ventilation: Vents are present
Soffit Vents: Non vented soffits due to proximity of neighbor's house
There is no bird-blocking ventilation on the West sides of the home apparently due to fire-separation requirements for adjacent structures. A type of roof surface vent, core-vent, has been installed to provide venting that is sufficiently distant from neighboring structures. I did not confirm that there are proper openings into the attic space for these vents. It should be verified that the openings are present under the vents into the attic space. Even with a few of these vents covered with snow, there is likely sufficient ventilation for the short time snow would be anticipated to cover the vents. The primary purpose of roof venting is to reduce summer time heating and is theoretically less critical in the winter.
🛑 Safety 📝 Informational note
Roof vents: Present
Gable Vents: Present
Attic/Roof Insulation: General Information, Minimal present, Compacted insulation
All other things being equal, approximately half of the heat loss from a home is through the ceiling. It is typically easier and more effective to insulate the flat ceiling above living space rather than between the roof rafters. Adding insulation above the ceilings in poorly insulated older homes is generally a wise investment.
An energy assessment or audit is outside the scope of the standard home inspection. Any comments on amounts and/or materials are for general informational purposes only and were not verified. Pre-1970s homes are more likely to have been constructed with insulation levels significantly below present day standards.
Estimates of depth of insulation is not meant to imply that the attic is sufficiently insulated or that the estimated depth is consistent throughout the attic. Use these depth "guesstimates" as a guide in determining the necessity for upgrading/adding additional insulation or in determining if the amount is "close" to recommended current standards. Adequacy of insulation can best be determined by a professional Energy Audit.
🔧 Maintenance 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 📝 Informational note
There is currently minimal insulation in the attic space. I recommend that for energy conservation (both heating and cooling) that a qualified insulation contractor upgrade the insulation in the attic to current standards. I also recommend that all changes in the electrical system that involve the attic space be performed prior to upgrading the insulation; and, that all spaces can allow the transfer of heat/moisture from the home and/or wall cavities be properly sealed by a qualified person.
WHY WAS INSULATION IMPACTED?
- Changes to the electrical system
- Installation of can lights
- HVAC work
- While adding insulation would improve the overall energy efficiency of the home, consideration should be given to repairing all electrical deficiencies--or making other desired electrical changes prior to adding additional insulation
🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 📝 Informational note
Rockwool, loose fill: Present, Quantities appear consistent with requirements of time of construction with areas of considerable compaction, 2 to 3 inches in some areas
Moisture in Attic/Roof Space: Water stains that tested negative by moisture meter, Evidence of Past moisture in Attic Space, leaks related to the furnace installtion
Attic Fire-Blocking/Draft-Stopping: General Information on Fire-blocking
Finish surfaces and/or insulation can conceal missing fire-blocking. When the basement space is fully finished off and/or insulated, evaluation of fire-blocking deficiencies is not usually possible.
Requirements for fire-blocking and draft-stopping in homes has changed over the years and varied from jurisdiction to jurisdiction. In general more modern requirements call for "blocking" the spread of fire from lower level spaces to upper level spaces. Some structures also have requirements for installation of protection against the flow of fire horizontally. To achieve this there are specific requirements as to sealing/blocking of spaces around pipes, ducts, chimneys, wiring, framing, laundry chutes, chases etc.
It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if all fire-blocking and/or draft-stopping is in place, but where it is "obviously" missing I attempt to identify the condition/location and recommend appropriate repairs for improved fire safety.
Condominiums have additional requirements against the spread of fire to adjacent units.
🛑 Safety 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Roof Structures with no access: Present
It is common to have areas of roof attached to homes that have no access to possible spaces within them.
ROOFS WITH NO ACCESS:
- Overlaying roof structures/above laundry
Usually no access is required to these spaces unless they are of sufficient size. I make to determination as to whether these spaces need access, or require access and observations and recommendations are based on observable exterior conditions at the time of inspection.
🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 📝 Informational note
MAIN ATTIC CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the roof and attic components that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a qualified party.
ACCESS DOOR:
- 🔹cover does not seat/seal properly
ACCESS INSULATION/WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- Weather-stripping:
- 🔹missing
- Insulation:
- 🔹missing
ATTIC ROOF INSULATION:
- 🔹compacted
- 🔹minimal present, adding insulation is recommended
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
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Chimney
Masonry Chimney: Evidence of removed chimney
Roof Drainage
General Information about Roof Drainage: General Information
Even-if/Unless it was raining at the time of inspection, it is not always possible to determine if gutters leak/overflow. Monitoring the gutters for leaks when it is raining is recommended. Leaking/overflowing gutters should be repaired to prevent damage to roof/fascia structures.
Properly functioning gutters, downspouts, and splash blocks or drain piping are critical to protect the foundation from moisture intrusion. Gutters should be cleaned as needed and leaky joints sealed.
Current standards require roof drainage in areas where expansive soils or collapsible soils are known to exist. Some means of controlling water disposal from roofs that will collect and discharge roof drainage to the ground surface not less than 5 feet from foundation walls or to an approved drainage system.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Aluminum Gutters: Continuous (seamless)
Downspouts: Aluminum Downspouts
Downspout/Roof Drain Termination: Underground pipes, At Ground, Downspout/Pipe transition adapters present
Limitations / Exclusions Related to Roof
Roof Inspection Limitations / Exclusions: Includes attic spaces
This report provides an opinion of the general condition of the roof system based on a visual inspection of representative areas. The inspector does not offer an opinion or warranty as to whether the roof leaks or is subject to future leakage.
- Water stains on ceilings, walls, and soffits that tested dry at the time of inspection may test elevated for moisture under other conditions or at another time.
- Specific notation of leakage or stains does not preclude additional areas of leakage and/or hidden damage. Monitor attic for any changes; ongoing or questionable situations should be assessed and corrected. Leakage can lead to Mold or Mold-like/Fungal Growth.
- It is common for there to be multiple layers of different kinds of insulation in the attic. It is possible for hidden layers to be discovered especially when the attics could not be inspected. The following limitations were present:
LIMITATIONS TO INSPECTION OF ROOF/STRUCTURES:
- 🔹Some areas not walked on
- 🔹Moss covering
- 🔹Lichen growth in some areas
ABOVE CEILING SPACES:
- 🔹Attic partially traversed
- 🔹HVAC unit in attic
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
🚿PLUMBING
Public Utility Water Supply
Underground Storage Tanks: Might be present, Presence of tank(s) not determined
It is not always possible to determine if any kind of underground storage tank is present on the site. If a tank is present and has been abandoned, many local ordinances often require that the tank be decommissioned or removed. Each jurisdiction has its own rules regarding decommissioning and they should be consulted regarding specific requirements.
🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
House Water Supply Meter: location, At street, Meter appeared to NOT be moving with house vacant
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Main Water Shut-off Location: Located at
.Exterior SW corner of home
BASEMENT:
- South side of basement
🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
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Main Water Shut-off Conditions: At Meter at street (Even when there is a shut off located within the home the water to the home can always be shut off at the street)
No water shut-off was found within the home. This is not uncommon. Water to the home can always be shut off at the street/meter. As an upgrade, I recommend having a licensed plumber install a shut-off inside the home for convenience unless it is determined that there is already one somewhere. I recommend asking seller if they know of any more accessible shut-off.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence
Water Pressure: The outside faucet at the West exterior of the home (valve is street side of pressure regulator), 82psi
Functional Flow: Measured flow rate in Gallons Per Minute, 11 GPH
Normal household water flow rates should be between 4 and 12 gallons per minute for proper function of fixtures/appliances throughout the home, with a minimum flow rate between 4-7 gallons per minute. Lots of factors can influence flow rates, including types and conditions of pipes, distance of fixtures from source, height of fixtures above grade, as well as pressure differences. While I measured the flow rate as indicated above, adequate flow can be hard to verify or quantify. It is important to keep in mind, you can have good water pressure and still not have adequate functional flow. Determining functional flow throughout the home is based on subjective observation by operating fixtures. The way you use fixtures may not have been duplicated. This information covers the testing of all fixtures/appliances in the home that are tested, and only issues related to specific locations will be discussed where applicable. Measured flow is only somewhat accurate for the location where it was taken, and will be different at any other location. It is only useful as a guide to reliable flow throughout the home, and not a guarantee. This information covers the testing of all fixtures in the home that are tested, and only issues related to specific locations will be discussed where applicable.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
Air Gaps and Air-breaks: What are they and where are they located?
Air Gaps and Air-breaks provide different functions in the plumbing system. Basically if there is a risk of dirty water being drawn back into the house plumbing system we expect to see air gaps required. Appliances that typically required air gaps, are dishwashers, water heaters, water softeners, any fixture faucet, etc. If they are merely drains for condensation created by different appliances an air-break will most likely be required. Appliances that typically require air-breaks, are condensing heating equipment like furnaces, water heaters, air conditioners etc. Throughout this report issues related to air gaps and air-breaks will be discussed where applicable.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor (ongoing) 🔍 Due Diligence
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Main Water Line and Protection: Not visible--type and size of pipe not determined, Galvanized pipe suspected
Enters Home/Building at : the below location
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CRAWL SPACE:
- SW corner of crawl space
🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Diameter of pipe : Size not determined
Pressure Regulator: none seen
Back-flow Valve: None/Not seen
No assessment of the proper function of backflow valves can be made during a standard building inspection. These valves must be inspected and tested once a year in most jurisdictions. I recommend that this valve be tested by a qualified back flow valve testing company as required.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
💧Water Supply Piping Inside the Building
Water Supply Piping in the Building: 🚩Most of piping not visible, Dead-legs are present
Regardless what is recorded and documented below, determining the types of plumbing pipes in the building can only be determined fully by taking walls apart, something not done in a Standard Home Inspection. Types of materials can usually be determined by what is visible in exposed areas. Any conclusions made should NOT be seen as absolute and merely the best opinion of the inspector. There may also be a mix of different kinds of materials.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor-ongoing 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
A dead-leg in the plumbing water supply is a location where a pipe drops from a horizontal run and comes to a dead-end. This prevents circulation of the water and creates a place where bacteria can grow and build up inside the pipe. Plastic pipes are more vulnerable than copper pipes) Some water heaters can be programmed to boost the water heater periodically to lower the risk of bacteria getting a start. Hidden dead-legs are always a possibility and would be no different than whole bathrooms that go unused.
- Piping that has been roughed-in for future uses can create conditions similar to a dead-leg because the water does not circulate.
- Viega on dead-legs
- Prevent legionella in your building water systems
- Flushing Bacteria from Water Piping
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Copper Pipe: Type of copper not determined, Piping in the house/building
In buildings there are three main types of copper tubing used: Type K, (Generally for underground), Type L (has a blue label and is for most general building plumbing) and Type M (has a red label and generally recommended for hydronic systems or other lower pressure applications--it has the thinnest walls). Type M, regardless, is widely used in buildings regardless of pressures. Because of this, it is more vulnerable to high pressure and more vulnerable to pin-hole leaks over time related to water quality (often localized or regional). Small bits of rust can result in electrolysis due to dissimilar metals, which can create pinholes. They can also develop similarly when the pipes are inadvertently energized. Pinhole leaks would be an indication of problems that should be corrected. Lowering the pressure, flushing lines and verifying no current is on the piping can help. Sometimes the piping must be replaced.
AMOUNTS OF COPPER PIPING IN THE BUILDING:
- Percentages of piping in the home that is copper could not be determined due to finish surfaces/insulation
- Majority
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Galvanized Pipe: None seen, some should be anticipated in walls, May be present to the street meter
PEX Pipe: Present
In properly installed PEX plumbing systems the piping will be either insulated or otherwise covered. Typically determining the types of fittings and even the manufacturer of the piping itself cannot be readily determined.
MANUFACTURER:
- Not determined
AMOUNTS OF PEX:
- Some PEX
CRIMP RINGS & FITTINGS:
- Plastic fittings
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Hot/Cold Water Pipe Insulation: Where installed:
WATER PIPE INSULATION:
The water supply piping was insulated at the following locations:
CRAWL SPACE COLD:
- Insulated
- Insulation wall thickness and R-value not determined
🔧 Maintenance 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
INTERIOR SUPPLY PLUMBING:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the Water Supply Plumbing. The below conditions should be evaluated, repaired and maintained as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber.
WATER SUPPLY PIPING:
- 🔹Dead legs present. The abandoned dead-end pipes near the electrical panel has resulted in "dead legs." Dead legs are extensions or dead ends in the pipe where water can enter and no longer circulate with the rest of the house water supply. Such a "dead-end" is any pipe length greater than 2 pipe diameters. This can result in harmful bacteria growth in the pipes and all such extensions or dead ends should be removed from the active water supply system in the home. Current requirements are that draining of these dead legs be possible. I do not think this is practical and they should be eliminated.
COPPER PIPE:
- 🔹Repairs made with plastic pipe and continuity of electrical bonding is compromised
- 🚩Possibility of pipes with Leaded Solder. The information immediately below regarding copper piping can be ignored if it can be determined that the piping was replaced after 1986 (typically). Into the late 1980's copper pipe connections were soldered with solder containing some lead. Most water supplies are not considered corrosive enough (either too acidic or too alkaline) to release the lead into the water so as to pose a health risk. Only testing of the water by an EPA certified lab can determine the presence of lead. Lead is a known health hazard, especially for children. Laws were passed in 1985 prohibiting the use of lead in solder, but prior to that solder normally contained lead. Evaluating for the presence of lead in this structure is not included in this inspection. The client (s) should consider having a qualified lab test for lead, and if necessary take steps to reduce or remove lead from the water supply, including:
- 1. Flush water taps or faucets. Do not drink water that has been sitting in the plumbing lines for more than six hours.
- 2. Install appropriate filters at points of use.
- 3. Use only cold water for cooking and drinking. Hot water dissolves lead more quickly than cold water.
- 4. Use bottled or distilled water.
- 5. Treat well water to make it less corrosive.
- 6. Replace plumbing pipes
- Additional information can be found at: http://www.epa.gov/safewater/lead/index.html
- 🔹I can have the water tested for an additional fee if desired.
GALVANIZED PIPE:
- 🔹percentages of galvanized piping in the home could not be determined due to finish surfaces
PEX PIPE:
- 🔹piping exposed to sunlight/daylight.
- 🔹interior spaces
INSULATION BASEMENT SPACE HOT:
- 🔹not insulated
There is a pipe visible in the south crawl space that appears to run to the exterior at the sw corner but does not show at the exterior. This should be further evaluated and removed back to the tee if no longer in use or a proper valve installed perhaps.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (annual) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
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Outside Faucets
Informational notes: General Information related to outside faucets, Some properties may have faucets that were not located
Outside faucets go by many names: sill-cocks, hose bibbs, bibcock, wall hydrants etc. I will refer to them as "outside faucets." The outside faucets listed below may not include all the faucets present on the property. Evaluation of other faucets located should be further evaluated in the context of other plumbing work done at the building. Outside faucets are typically tested as to basic function (turn off and on) and tested under back pressure with a pressure gauge. Above Information not repeated in relation to other outside faucets.
🔧 Maintenance (annual) 👁🗨 Monitor during use 🔍 Due Diligence
Frost Free/Anti-Siphon Outside Faucet
Frost Free/Anti-Siphon Faucet: Present, Turned on, under back-pressure, without leaking
Function: water was delivered
Anti-siphon device: present, cap type
Missing/damaged components: None seen
Valve attachment: Screws present
Freeze protection: Frost-free type faucet
Frost-free type hose faucets do not need additional protection provided by foam covers. Sometimes they are installed anyway, and there is a risk that small drips may fill up the cover with ice and damage the valve. Frost covers should not be installed on frost-free type faucets.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
FROST-FREE/ANTI-SIPHON OUTSIDE FAUCET:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the outside faucet that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber.
FROST-FREE ANTI-SIPHON:
- 🔹🚩Valve stem did NOT drain when test gauge removed indicative of improper slope and/or that the valve is not frost-free type. The frost-free type faucet at the north side of the home does not slope so that it can drain. I recommend evaluation/repairs by the licensed plumber or other qualified party to allow for proper function of the device (otherwise it is not frost-free). There are plastic shims available to create the proper slope.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor during use 🔍 Due Diligence
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Waste Pipe/Drains
Public Sewer 🛑: present
Stating the home is on a public sewage system is based on listing information, other public resources and lack of obvious observable indications of an on site sewage disposal system. It is possible that I may not be able to determine which type of disposal system is present with 100% certainty. It is it is not likely, sufficient water will be used during the course of the inspection that would duplicate actual use of the drainage systems of the home under all scenarios. Plugged drains are quite common in homes and the interior condition of drains can not typically be determined or predicted. I recommend you utilize all resources available to verify the type of system, to your satisfaction. This is especially true of structures built prior to the mid 1960's when plastic piping became more common.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor (ongoing) 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Interior Clean-out Location: location
Present in basement
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Clean-out at Exterior: location
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Drain / Waste / Vent Piping (DWV): present
ABS Drain Pipes: Manufacturer not determined, Majority of drainage piping
Cast Iron Drains: Quantities not determined, related to floor drains likely
Traps ⭕: P-Traps
Modern standards require installation of a P-trap at sinks and most drain locations. The sink drains vertically into the trap and water is maintained in the trap to the weir. As water rises above the weir it run down the drain within a specified length based on the size of the drain. At all times the weir must be able to "see" the vent--typically hidden in the wall. Without a proper vent, the trap can siphon. Gurgling sounds while draining or siphoning while draining can be an indication of problems with the vent including its not being present. When venting is found to be missing/insufficient the addition of an Air Admittance Valve is typically an easy solution. No such issues were noted at the time of inspection.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
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Floor Drains: Drains present, Function not determined
Assurances are warranted that floor drains are functional. I do not test them but I do recommend that they be tested for function by building owner/handy-person running a hose in them for a prolonged time or having them professionally scoped by a qualified plumber. The traps in these drains sometimes dry-out allowing sewer gases and vermin into the home. As a part of routine maintenance I recommend making sure drain trap has water in it and is properly covered.
TRAP PRIMERS:
- Trap primers are necessary to keep water in the trap as over time they can dry-out and allow sewer gases to enter the building.
- There are also trap seal products for drains without trap primers.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
Laundry Stand Pipe: In-wall type
BUILDING DRAINAGE SYSTEMS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the drainage system of the home: I recommend evaluation, repairs and maintenance as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber (or in some cases by other qualified parties).
PUBLIC SEWER:
- 🚩Sewer scoping is recommended. Proper function of the building drain to the city sewer is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend that proper function be both determined and maintained. The best method to verify function is to have them inspected with a remote camera device. I recommend the drains associated with this property be professionally scoped by a qualified drainage scoping company (preferably one not associated with, or part of, a plumbing repair company).
- 🔹the long run of the drain
- 🔹the age
ABS DRAINS:
- Installation concerns:
- 🔹less than professional installation noted
- 🔹the drain from the laundry drops more that 8 feet to the trap and the maximum drop is closer to 24". This whole configuration of drain should be repaired in the context of fixing the venting discussed below.
FLOOR DRAINS:
- 🔹function not determined
VENTING:
- 🔹don't run above roof line
- No vent was found terminated above the roof. There was no plumbing vents through the roof as required. I recommend a full evaluation of all of the vent plumbing by a licensed plumber. It is possible it terminates in the attic space and was never extended through the roof when the roof/addition was installed. Currently the only vent is provided by an improperly installed air admittance valve. At least one vent is required to go through the roof. The laundry and kitchen could be accomplished with air admittance valves but the bathroom should vent through the roof.
AIR ADMITTANCE VALVES (AAV):
- 🔹🚩AAV's This installation is not done to manufacturer's specifications and could cause the unit to fail. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a licensed plumber. From one brand of AAV: The Sure-Vent® AAV must be located a minimum of 4 inches above the horizontal branch drain and 6 inches above any insulation material and within 15 degrees of vertical.
- 🔹not installed within 15° of vertical
- 🔹installed in a horizontal orientation
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
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Venting
Vent Piping: Not visible
ABS Vent Pipes: Present
Gas Piping at Property
Gas Piping: Pipe size not determined
Black Steel and Galvanized Pipe: Black Steel
Yellow CSST Pipe: CSST--Coated Stainless Steel, Manufacturer not determined
▫▫Gas Meter
Location and Installation: located at, east side of the home
Seismic Shut-off: Seismic shut-off NOT present/but recommended
In our area, seismic shut-offs on the gas meter are recommended. In the event of an earthquake the gas to the building is shut down automatically avoiding any damage that might occur from broken gas lines house-side of the meter. Discuss with a licensed plumber options for installation as a safety upgrade. It is best practice in the event the valve turns the gas off, to have the gas pipe system checked for breaches inside the house before being reset (unless the shut-down was inadvertent due to hitting the valve).
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Gas Water Heater
Gas Water Heater: Tank type water heater warning, Natural Gas
Under certain conditions, hydrogen gas may be produced in a hot water system that has not been used for two weeks or more. HYDROGEN GAS IS EXPLOSIVE. If the hot water system has not been used for two weeks or more, turn on all hot water faucets and let the water flow from each for several minutes. This will release any accumulated hydrogen gas. As the gas is flammable, do not smoke or use an open flame during this time. It is a good idea to keep this in mind when getting home from vacation /traveling.
Leaking water heaters can be costly, causing extensive property damage. Installation of a WAGS (Water and Gas Shut-off) Valve can minimize damage. These valves can be installed on any kind of water heater and require a pan under the heater and can even be used on water heaters that have pans with drains.
General information about the replacement of tank-type water heaters.
- Since April 16 of 2015, when new energy efficiency requirements went into effect, the replacement of water heaters has become more complicated. This is mostly a concern when the old heater is gas but even electric heaters will be different. Tanks under 55 gallons will only see moderate changes with little effect on installation. Typically the tanks will be slightly larger in diameter and height to account for the additional insulation (1-2 inches for most manufacturers). If the tank is gas, it may become necessary to provide electricity to the heater location because pilot lights are no longer allowed by the new regulations. Tanks over 55 gallons could create bigger concerns because standard gas and electric options for these larger sizes may not be available, requiring a change to Heat Pump, On-demand or Condensing types of units. Sometimes installation of multiple smaller units may make sense. Regardless, it will no longer be possible to change "like for like."
Conventional domestic gas water heaters have life expectancies that vary throughout Washington State. In some areas, life expectancy may be as low as 8 to 12 years. In other areas they can be expected to last 15 to 25 years.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence
Manufacturer (Average life expectancy 12 - 16 years): Bradford White
Data Plate: .
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Manufacture date: 2013
Years old: 9
BTU Rating: 40,000
Size, number of gallons for tanks under 55 gallons: 50
Appliance Gas Shut-off: Gas Shut-off within 3' of heater
Drip Legs and Sediment Traps: Sediment Traps
A sediment trap is located as close to the appliance as practical and is designed to filter out any small amounts of debris in the pipes that might be in the gas-stream that could clog the valves of the appliance. It is required to be located house side of the gas shut-off for the appliance and the flow of the gas must change direction as visible in the picture below.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
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Combustion/Dilution Air: Taken from Basement Space
B-vent Chimney: Minimum 1" to combustibles, Pipe connections concealed in finished/inaccessible spaces, Cap/Hat present, Storm collar present, Collar sealant present
Draft Hood: Present and in proper position
TPRV and PRV❗: TPRV General Information
A temperature and pressure relief valve (TPRV) is required on all water heaters to discharge any excessive pressure within the tank. A discharge pipe should be attached to the valve and directed to a safe location away from body contact. Newer installations must be directed to the building exterior or to an approved indoor drain receptor. Most manufacturers suggest that homeowners test these valve at least once a year by lifting the lever to ensure the valve discharges properly. The picture to the right shows a typical TPRV. They may also be found on the side of the heater on some models. I do not test these valves due to the possibility that they may leak after testing. A leaking or inoperative TPRV should be replaced immediately by a licensed plumber.
Most codes defer to manufacturer instructions and I favor those recommendations. The yellow tag on the valve states clearly the termination should be 6" above the floor which is more consistent with the UPC code requirements.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
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TPRV Drain: Drains to floor
Due to inconsistencies between both UPC and IPC Plumbing codes, and water heater manufacturer's instructions, and TPR (Temperature Pressure Relief) valve manufacturer instructions, it is not actually possible to install the drain from the Water Heater TPRV "properly." There are conflicts with distance of termination to the floor/ground, types of pipes approved, and diameters of pipes approved. Additional confusion is added when jurisdictional inspectors approve installations/materials specifically not allowed by both codes and manufacturers. My recommendations will vary depending on the installation and will be included in the applicable narratives below.
WHERE IT DRAINS TO:
- Drain present in floor
- Drains to floor
AIR GAP:
- Between 6" and 24" of floor (meets UPC requirements)
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence
Water Temperature: Measured, see narrative below
Supply Connections: Flexible Corrugated copper
Water Shut-offs: Cold water shut-off present
Heat Traps: Heat-Trap NOT Present
For energy conservation some form of Heat-Trap is required on water heaters to prevent the loss of heat through thermo-siphon and conduction into the connected pipes. When they are missing I recommend having these installed when the plumber is at the premises for other reasons and as desired.
🔧 Maintenance 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 📝 Informational note
Drain Valve: Present
Leaks: No evidence of past/present leaking
Seismic Strapping: present
GAS WATER HEATER:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the water heater that should be further evaluated, repaired and maintained as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber (or in some cases, repairs can be made by other qualified parties):
WATER HEATER CONDITIONS:
- ❌Approaching its expected life. The water heater at more than 10 years old is approaching the end of its useful life. I recommend factoring replacement of the heater by a licensed plumber in the near future.
GAS SHUT-OFF:
- 🔹older type of valve should be replaced in the context of the next water heater replacement
DRIP LEGS/SEDIMENT TRAPS:
- 🔹none present. Many appliances require sediment traps located as close to the appliance as practical. None is present on this appliance and I recommend evaluation/repairs as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber in the context of other plumbing repairs at the home.
B-VENT CHIMNEY:
- 🚩Missing insulation baffle in attic. The water heater vent has inadequate clearance to insulation in the attic. While this insulation might not be considered combustible, the concern is that it might reduce the ability of the vent to cool itself and conduct that heat through the insulation to materials that are combustible. A proper insulation baffle should be installed to provide the required 1" clearance to materials required for B-vent.
WATER TEMPERATURE:
- 🔹🚩Water temperature too hot likely inadequate supply. Given the number of bathrooms and other points of use of hot water, it is possible that the water heater will not be sufficient to provide an uninterrupted supply of hot water (this can vary widely depending on use and life-style). I recommend improving amounts of supply if, under daily use, there proves to be insufficient supply. Consult with a licensed plumber about possible options.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
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Water Temperature Control
Protection From Bacteria and Scalding: General Information regarding Storage Tank Water Heating Systems
Having plenty of hot water is not just a convenience, it is considered a necessity in modern homes. However, there are competing concerns related to having plenty of hot water. On the one hand we want to prevent scalding. On the other hand it is a good idea to keep water hot enough to prevent water-borne bacteria from flourishing. It is actually quite complicated to accomplish both goals with storage-tank type water heaters.
- This is further complicated by Washington State Home Inspector Standards of practice that require us to report when the tested water temperature is above 120 degrees Fahrenheit (including a statement that the generally accepted safe temperature is 120 degrees Fahrenheit). Another complication is that some dishwashers do not have integral water heaters and prefer much hotter water coming to it from the primary water heater.
- This information however only address one of the safety concerns--and can actually make the other concern worse. Temperature below 120 degrees Fahrenheit is considered ideal for the growth of harmful bacteria inside the tank--such as Legionella. Keeping the tank temperature between 135 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit can greatly reduce the risk of growing bacteria in the tank but is not a guarantee. For example, Legionella Bacteria can survive extreme hot water and chemical treatment by forming a parasitic relationship with amoebae that are not affected by these treatments. While rare, it is still considered prudent, given the current state of knowledge, to maintain the tank water temperature between 135 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit to at least provide some degree of protection.
- While "generally-healthy-people" are fairly resistant to infection, some patient populations (organ transplants, diabetes, cancers, kidney disease etc), immunocompromised persons, heavy smokers, heavy drinkers, the elderly and infants can be expected to have higher death rates or incidence of more severe illness if the bacteria is present in sufficient numbers. Some authorities assert that an increase in incidence can be expected with an increased focus on conserving energy (lowering the thermostat on the water heater). The science around all of this is ongoing and new information should be anticipated.
But what about scalding?
Preventing scalding requires a multifaceted approach.
- We must resort to good sense: • Never leave a child or the infirm alone while drawing water in a bathtub, and check the water temperature before putting your child or the infirm in the tub. • Test the water temperature before bathing or showering. • Turn the cold water on first, then add hot water until the temperature is comfortable. • Teach children to turn the cold water on first, and the hot water off first.
- Provide a mechanical means (Thermostatic mixing valve) of lowering the temperature to below 120 degrees Fahrenheit at either the points of use or at the water heater itself to protect the whole house. Because these devices can fail, we must always keep #1 in mind.
For additional information on this issue please check out the links below:
Thermostatic mixing valves:
Thermostatic mixing valves located at the water heater are designed to reduce hot water temperatures in the tank to levels considered safe at points of use (sinks tubs etc). They can be adjusted and should be periodically checked to verify function. These valves are desirable so that tank temperatures can be maintained high enough to limit bacteria growth inside the water heater while at the same time providing water a safe temperature where desired.
🛑 SAFETY 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
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Thermostatic Mixing Valve: None seen
💣Thermal Expansion & Water-hammer Control
Hammer Arrestors: Mini-arrestor Type
Hammer Arrestor Locations: See specific appliance location, Dishwasher, Washing Machine Hot Side
Yard Irrigation Systems
The System location: None Present
🔥 Fire Suppression System
The System location: None Present
Fire Extinguisher noted at: None seen--should be installed
Inspection Limitations / Exclusions Related to Plumbing
Plumbing Limitations and Exclusions: Present
The following limitations and exclusions related to the plumbing of the home were noted:
SUPPLY PLUMBING
- 🔹Type of pipe running from the street to the home not determined
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence
⚡ELECTRICAL
Electrical Service to Property
Electrical Service: 🛑 GENERAL ELECTRICAL SAFETY WARNING, overhead service
🛑 GENERAL ELECTRICAL SAFETY WARNING: Even if the electricity has been turned off at the main disconnect, sections of the electrical system prior to the main breaker are still energized and can be lethal if contacted. I recommend that all changes/corrections made to the electrical system be performed by a licensed electrical contractor.
OVERHEAD SERVICE:
- The electrical service is the set of wires that run from the street or power pole to the main breaker panel or fuse box. In this building the service runs overhead. An overhead service will include a service drop from a pole to a weather head, where the service drop connects to the service conductors and enters into the service mast conduit that connects to the electric meter base. At the weather head, the service wires should form a loop, called a drip loop, to prevent water from running into the conduit. Overhead service wires should have proper clearances above ground, walkway, or flat roof surfaces. Tree branches should be kept cut back from overhead service wires.
🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Attachment to Structure: Side of building
Neutral/ground restraint connection: Insulated Connector (clevis) present
Utility Company Connections: Covered
Drip Loop: Present
Meter Base: location, East side of home/building exterior
Meter Access: Accessible
Meter Seals: Utility Company seals present
Meter Condition: Center of meter between 4' and 6' above ground
Torqueing of electrical connections: Lugs
Most electrical connection lugs have specific requirements as to torquing. Loose connections are a primary mode of failure of electrical connections potentially leading to arcing and fires. It is beyond the scope of the inspection to verify proper torquing of connections and it is recommended that proper torquing of connections be verified by the licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs/improvements at the building.
🛑 Safety 📝 Informational note
ELECTRICAL SERVICE TO PROPERTY:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Electrical Service to the property that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a licensed electrical contractor. Additional issues should be anticipated and uncovered during repairs.
LOW VOLTAGE UTILITY WIRES:
- 🔹improperly connected to electrical mast---should be removed
METER CONDITION:
- 🔹meter base not attached to house. The electric meter base is not well-secured to the house. Have this further investigated by the utility or an electrician and repaired as recommended to insure water does not get trapped behind the meter and to insure the meter base is well-secured.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
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Service Equipment
Service Equipment Location at Interior: NE corner of home/building interior, in basement
Service Rating: 💡
Home: 200 amps (120/240 volts)
Service Voltages: Note about testing voltages on a nominal 240 volt system, Measured by multi- meter (single phase system)
Washington State Home Inspector Standards of Practice require us to report the Amperage and Voltages of the electrical system. Amperage is determined by a variety of factors, including the panel label, wire size and service disconnect size and the amount is recorded below. Voltages are more difficult to report, as there can be normal fluctuations of voltages of plus or minus a few volts and can only be determined by actually measuring with testing equipment. Any issues with voltages and amperage will be discussed below when applicable. Electrical service voltages supplied to buildings can fluctuate a few volts between legs but anything more than 10 volts should probably be further evaluated by a licensed electrical contractor. 120/240 volts is the "nominal" voltage supplied to this building and tested voltages were near these amounts.
📝 Informational note
120/240: volts
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Panel Manufacturer: Square-D (Homeline)
Panel Amperage/Voltage rating: 200 amps (120/240 volts)
Service Disconnect: Present Single breaker
Breaker(s): 200 amps (120/240 volts)
Service Conductors: Aluminum
Size: 4/0 awg
Service Feeder Protection: Not present consistent with time of installation
As of July 2017, the lugs where the service entrance conductors connect to the panel require barriers that prevent inadvertent contact with the unfused conductors. Them not being present is consistent with the date of construction. Upgrading by a licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs at the home is recommended when practical.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
PANEL CONDITION: Present
Legend Data Plate: Present
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Panel cover screws: All screws present
Panel Bonding: "Green Screw" bonding
Grounding Electrode Conductor (GEC): Connected to neutral bar
Distribution Breakers/Fuses: Breakers, Room for expansion / Additional circuits
Tandem Breakers: Tandem breakers are present, Panel is rated for installation of some tandem breakers
Tandem breakers (or duplex breakers) (also called, mini-breakers, peanut breakers, half-height breakers, twin breakers, slim breakers, piggy-back breakers etc) are breakers that are designed to provide two circuits in place of a typical single breaker. Most panel legends specifically state where these breakers can be installed, whether or not they are allowed at all, and how many are allowed. It is typically beyond the scope of the inspection to determine appropriateness of some installations.
Changes to the electrical system may require elimination of tandem breakers where the circuits are required to have AFCI protection.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Circuit identification: Circuits labeled, No determination was made of individual circuit distribution or accuracy of any circuit labeling
For safety the homeowner should always see to it that the circuits in the panel are properly labeled. This can be done when the electrician is at the home for other reasons, but accurately identifying circuits can assist in shutting down circuits quickly when they need to be.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Working Space at Panel: Access OK, poor lighting
ELECTRICAL SERVICE EQUIPMENT:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the electrical service equipment that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by the licensed electrical contractor.
PANEL CONDITION:
- 🔹missing knock-outs--exposed energized components
- 🔹vermin activity in panel
- 🔹conduit from meter base not sealed
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
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Electrical Grounding System (EGS)
Utility Grounding at Pole: Ground wire is present, Not inspected
*Metal Water Pipe Grounding Electrode: General information, Connection point
In the context of the inspection, I attempt to visually document electrical system grounding. The electrical system grounding creates a pathway to shunt static charges (that would otherwise build up on the metallic systems in the building) to earth, and to provide a pathway to trip a breaker in the event that these bonded metallic components became energized. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of the grounding system. However, there are many things that can lead me to recommend further evaluation by a licensed electrical contractor and they will be documented in the observations below. Whenever the metal water pipe is used as a grounding electrode it is required to be supplemented with 2 ground rods unless one ground rod measures less than 5 ohms to earth (it is exceptionally rare this would ever occur so two rods should be present).
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
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*Rod Grounding Electrode: General information, Connection point
In the context of the inspection, I attempt to visually document electrical system grounding. Electrical system grounding creates a pathway to shunt static charges (that would otherwise build up on the metallic systems in the building) to earth. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of the grounding system. However, there are many things that can lead me to recommend further evaluation by a licensed electrical contractor and they will be documented in the observations below.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
*Rod Ground Conditions: Ground wire is present (ground rods may be buried but not visible)
*2nd Ground Rod: Not visible--not located
*Amperage on grounding system: No amperage on ground wire at time of inspection
While none or very little amperage was noted on the grounding system at the time of inspection, there are too many variables to conclude that there is never any current on the system. Amounts can vary with house use of electricity, neighbor's electrical systems as well as the electrical utility itself.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
Electrical Bonding of Metallic Systems
General Bonding Information: Bonding of metallic systems
In the context of the inspection, I attempt to visually document electrical system bonding. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of system bonding. All metallic systems in the building are required to be "bonded" (connected) to the the building's electrical grounding system. Bonding creates a pathway to shunt static charges (that would otherwise build up on the metallic systems in the building) to earth, and to provide a pathway to trip a breaker in the event that these bonded metallic components became energized. There are many things that can lead me to recommend further evaluation by a licensed electrical contractor and they will be documented in the observations below.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Water Pipe Bonding: Bonding noted at
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Yellow CSST: Bonding
There are numerous considerations related to the bonding of flexible gas piping systems. Regardless of whether it is "black" or "yellow" CSST, they both require bonding. Black CSST has a built-in bonding mesh that allows it to be bonded per the same requirements of bonding of rigid gas piping systems. Yellow CSST has "special" requirements for bonding and it is often improperly bonded. This particular system with yellow CSST appears to be bonded per current requirements.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Low Voltage System Wiring/Bonding: bonding noted at, wire under meter
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM BONDING:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the bonding of metallic systems of a building. Bonding is important for electrical safety to keep grounded metal components at the same potential. I recommend all aspects of required bonding be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by the licensed electrical contractor. The items below, should be seen as a guide and not necessarily all inclusive but more representative.
YELLOW CSST:
- 🔹🚩not bonded with #6 copper minimum
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
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Sub-Panel/Remote Distribution Panel in Detached Building
Sub-panel Location at Interior: West side of garage interior
Panel Manufacturer: Cutler/Hammer
Feeder Disconnect: Present Single breaker
Breaker(s): 100 amps
Panel Disconnect: In Service Panel
Breaker(s): 100 amps
Feeder Conductors & Conditions: Aluminum
Size: Size not determined
PANEL CONDITION: Present
Legend Data Plate: Present
Panel cover screws: All screws present
Panel Bonding: Ground bar attached to panel
Distribution Breakers/Fuses: Breakers, Some Room for expansion / Additional circuits
Tandem Breakers: Tandem breakers are present, Panel is rated for installation of some tandem breakers
Tandem breakers (or duplex breakers) (also called, mini-breakers, peanut breakers, half-height breakers, twin breakers, slim breakers, piggy-back breakers etc) are breakers that are designed to provide two circuits in place of a typical single breaker. Most panel legends specifically state where these breakers can be installed, whether or not they are allowed at all, and how many are allowed. It is typically beyond the scope of the inspection to determine appropriateness of some installations.
Changes to the electrical system may require elimination of tandem breakers where the circuits are required to have AFCI protection.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Circuit identification: No determination was made of individual circuit distribution or accuracy of any circuit labeling
For safety the homeowner should always see to it that the circuits in the panel are properly labeled. This can be done when the electrician is at the home for other reasons, but accurately identifying circuits can assist in shutting down circuits quickly when they need to be.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Working Space at Panel: Access OK
DETACHED BUILDING SUB-PANEL CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the Sub-Panel that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a licensed electrical contractor. They should not be construed to be all concerns that need to be addressed but more representative.
PANEL CONDITION:
- 🔹connector issues
- 🔹amperage on grounding conductor. This should be further evaluated by the licensed electrical contractor to both determine the cause and make necessary repairs.
🛑 SAFETY 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence
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Lock-out/Lock-on Devices
May not have been required at time of construction: What is a lock-out/lock-on device?
Current standards require "lock-out" devices on appliances that are "hard-wired" back to the electrical panel disconnect (unless the appliance is in the line of sight of the electrical panel). This is for the safety of persons servicing the appliances. For improved electrical service the licensed electrical contractor can install these lock-out devices when they are at the building for other reasons. No determination is made as to whether the type of lock-out/on device is approved for the use.
DEVICES NOT PRESENT FOR:
- Dishwasher
- Range hood
- Water heater
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
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Surge Protection Devices (SPD's)
SPD not present: but considered best practice and installation is encouraged
Voltage surges can be a costly example of the power interference that occurs in Buildings every day. This momentary rise in voltage can start inside or outside a Building and damage sensitive electronic equipment such as computer, Building entertainment center, treadmills, and all the other --often expensive -- equipment found in most Buildings today.
Conventional surge protectors in the home cannot protect against large surges from lightning and it is still considered best practice to unplug expensive appliances during a lightning storm.
Whole Building surge arresters should be installed at the Building's electrical service panel by professional, licensed electrical contractors. There are dozens of different makes, models and styles of surge protectors on the market, which vary greatly in both price and quality. The type and size of the service panel, how full the panel is, as well as the investment in appliances and electronic devices that need to be protected all play a role in determining which surge protector should be installed. Your service professional, after inspecting the Building and service panel, will make the recommendation as to the appropriate product to be installed.
🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Multi-wire Circuits
Hot conductors terminate on different bus bars as required: Present
There are multi-wire circuits in the building. Multi wire circuits are wires that "share" a neutral conductor back to the electrical panel. When this is done care must be taken to ensure that the two hot conductors end up on separate bus bars at the electrical panel and that they terminate on "common trip" type breakers. It is also critical with these multi-wire circuits that the neutral be continuous by any devices it needs to be attached to throughout the circuits. The circuits in this panel appear to be properly wired in that respect.
For more information on Multi-Wire circuits please see the following link: Multi-Wire Circuits.
🛑 Safety 📝 Informational note
Continuity of neutral conductor: Typically cannot be determined in the course of a Standard Building Inspection
In multi-wire branch circuits, the continuity of a grounded conductor cannot depend on device connections such as lamp-holders, receptacles, etc---where the removal of such devices would interrupt continuity.
🛑 Safety 📝 Informational note
MULTI-WIRE BRANCH CIRCUIT CONCERNS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists and narratives related to the Multi-wire Branch Circuits in the home that should be evaluated and repaired by the licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs at the building.
MWBC's
- 🔹handle ties not present--not required at time of construction but is recommended to conform with current standards. There are multi-wire circuits in the building. Multi wire circuits are wires that "share" a neutral conductor back to the Service panel. When this is done care must be taken to ensure that the two hot conductors end up on separate bus bars at the Service panel. It is also critical with these multi-wire circuits that the neutral be continuous by any devices it needs to be attached to throughout the circuits. This is not possible to confirm in the course of a Standard Home Inspection and could be checked by a licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs. Current requirements call for handle ties to be installed on the two breakers for each circuit to ensure that if one circuit is shut down, both will be de-energized.
🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
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Conductor Re-identification
Conductors re-identification: improperly color coded wires
Conductors that are not permanently color coded during manufacture are required to be "permanently" marked as to use. Corrections should be made by the licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs at the building and/or brought to the attention of the builder for proper repairs.
RE-IDENTIFICATION CONCERNS:
- 🚩White wires on breakers. Sometimes wires that are typically used as neutral (white) conductors are used as "hot" (black/red) conductors. When so used it is required that they be re-identified--with black tape or other means. I recommend that when the electrician is at the Building for other reasons and has the panel cover off that these wires be re-identified.
🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Distribution Wiring
Voltage readings above 120 volts: More than 120 volts noted
It is common in some areas for the voltage to be higher than 120 volts on the house circuits. (1-4 volts higher) When this occurs light bulbs rated at 120 volts do not last as long. I recommend installing bulbs rated for 130 volts. While these bulbs aren't as readily available they will last longer (they can be found at electrical supply stores). This condition is not considered problematic with LED type bulbs as they supposedly handle wider voltage ranges.
🔧 Maintenance 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Wire Temperature rating: Beyond the scope
It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if incompatible electrical components are installed, or to determine the extent to which they're installed. Based on the age of this building, the client should be aware of potential for this safety hazard. This is for both existing fixtures and for when planning to upgrade to newer fixtures. The use of CFL and LED type light bulbs can greatly reduce any risk associated with the temperature ratings of the wire in the home. Consult with a qualified electrician for evaluation/repairs as necessary. Only trained professionals should perform work on electrical systems, especially older systems.
🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Junction boxes: Present
DISTRIBUTION WIRING CONCERNS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists and narratives related to the distribution wiring in the home that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by the licensed electrical contractor.
GENERAL CONCERNS:
- Junction Boxes.
- 🔹missing covers
- 🔹missing knockouts
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Types of Wiring
Houses with multiple wiring types/systems: Multiple wiring methods present
Estimates of amounts of various types/systems of wiring in the home is for informational purposes only as there is no way to give an accurate accounting of actual amounts installed in the home.
📝 Informational note
Wiring type(s): Present on the premises:
Electrical conduit/tubing: The following type(s) were present
Electrical Metallic Tubing (EMT): % of metal tubing wiring in building not determined
Flexible Metal Conduit (FMC): % of Flexible Metal Conduit wiring in building not determined, most of garage
Rigid PVC Conduit: % of PVC conduit not determined
Knob & Tube: evidence of past system but no energized knob and tube found
Wiring Support/Protection
Wiring not properly supported and/or subject to physical damage: at the Locations Below
WIRING SUPPORT/PROTECTION:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists and narratives related to the wiring in the home that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a licensed electrical contractor. It should be seen as representative of the concerns and not all inclusive.
ATTIC WIRING:
- 🔹wiring not properly supported in Attic
- 🔹Improper use and installation of din rail
BASEMENT WIRING:
- 🔹not secured within 8" of plastic junction boxes is indicative of less than professional work
- 🔹abandoned wiring that should be removed and/or properly terminated
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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Receptacle Outlets
Garage Receptacle circuit: present
Receptacle replacement: Informational note
As of July 1st, 2014, any receptacle replaced in a home must be provided with AFCI protection when the receptacle is being replaced in circuits that require AFCI protection (See AFCI section of this report below). This can be accomplished at the receptacle itself, at a point downstream of the receptacle or at the panel where the circuit originates. Whenever possible protecting the entire circuit is considered best practice.
OLDER CONSTRUCTION
- In the context of any electrical panel replacement, the installation of AFCI breakers on all circuits that currently require AFCI protection is considered best practice.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Polarity: All locations OK, where checked
Grounded Receptacles: The majority of receptacles that were tested, tested as being grounded, VERY few checked due to storage/belongings/furniture
Ungrounded 3-prong receptacles: See narrative below
Tamper Resistant Receptacles (required after June 6, 2009): See narrative below
Weather Resistant Receptacles (required at all damp and wet locations): See narrative below
Floor Receptacles: None seen
RECEPTACLE OUTLET CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists and narratives related to the receptacles in the home:
RECEPTACLES GENERAL:
- 🔹some three prong receptacles tested as "ungrounded"
GFCI Receptacles
- 🔹some garage receptacles not GFCI protected (south end in removed stove location)
- 🔹missing at west side of garage
MISING RECEPTACLES/COVERS:
- 🔹at numerous locations, covers should be installed wherever found to be missing
- 🔹furniture often conceal missing covers
TAMPER RESISTANT RECEPTACLES:
- Tamper resistant receptacles missing. No tamper-resistant receptacles were noted in the home. Electrical permits drawn after June 6, 2009 would likely require this type of receptacle throughout the home.
WEATHER RESISTANT RECEPTACLES:
- Weather resistant receptacles missing. No tamper-resistant receptacles were noted in the home. Electrical permits drawn after June 6, 2009 would likely require this type of receptacle throughout the home.
I recommend evaluation and repairs by a licensed electrical contractor. Other similar conditions should be anticipated.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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💡Lighting Outlets
Can Lights: Present at several locations
Can lights, whether modern air-tight type cans or older non-insulation contact cans, can be a major contributor to heat loss and air movement into roof structures. This is difficult to determine during the course of a home inspection but if moisture issues are apparent or become apparent in the roof structure, these lights should be considered one possible cause of the issue. Blower door tests can be performed to determine how well sealed can lights are.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence
Porcelain bulb holders present: In several basement locations
Light fixtures switched from multiple locations are present in the home: General Information when no issues noted
Lights that are switched from multiple locations (like 3-way and 4-way switches) can sometimes be wired improperly so that if one of the switches is in the wrong position the lights will not work from the other location. This miswiring of switches is often not found during the course of a Standard Home Inspection due to not testing the circuit with all possible combination of options. When this condition is discovered, repairs are usually quite simple when performed by a licensed electrician.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence
Exterior lights: General lighting
LOCATIONS:
- Present at garage door
- Exterior lights with motion detectors and/or light sensors noted. Determining function of lights that have motion detectors and or light sensors is beyond the scope of a Standard Home Inspection. It is usually easier to verify the function of these lights when it is dark outside and most can be adjusted and have instructions printed on the fixture. These fixtures often have dead bulbs. Verify proper function and maintain as necessary.
- Lights on sides of building
- Lights at exterior doors with access to grade
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor (ongoing) 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Function of General Exterior Lighting: Some functioned normally at time of inspection by switch, Function not determined at some locations
LIGHTING OUTLET CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the lighting components in the home including:
FIXTURES:
- 🔹cotton pull chains
- 🔹missing fixtures
PORCELAIN BULB HOLDERS:
- 🔹several basement locations
SWITCHES:
- 🔹missing cover plates
- 🔹other missing covers should be anticipated and installed wherever found missing
EXTERIOR LIGHTS:
- 🔹broken fixtures
- 🔹missing fixtures
- Missing at exterior at:
- 🔹doors at east side of garage which can be a safety hazard approaching or leaving the garage in the dark. All doors with access to grade are required to be illuminated at the exterior. Proper lighting should be installed
- Function not determined at:
- 🔹some locations
While the pictures below document some of these concerns, I recommend all lighting locations be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a licensed electrical contractor.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor during use ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
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GFCI/AFCI DEVICES
Where Are AFCI required?: General Information
Currently all 120-volt, single phase, 15- and 20-ampere branch circuits supplying outlets installed in dwelling unit family rooms, dining rooms, kitchens, laundries, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, or similar rooms or areas are required to be AFCI protected per current standards. Upgrading to current requirements is recommended for safety. Consult with a licensed electrical contractor as to options.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor monthly ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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Testing GFCI's and AFCI's: See GFCI testing procedures below, See AFCI testing procedures below
TESTING GFCI's: Ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) can help prevent electrocution inside and outside the home. GFCIs are an effective means of protecting against electrical shock, however, they must be tested regularly -- UL recommends once a month -- to verify they are working properly.
- Plug a nightlight (with an "ON/OFF" switch) or other product (such as a lamp or 3-bulb circuit tester) into the GFCI receptacle and turn the product "ON."
- Push the "Test" button located on the GFCI receptacle. The nightlight (or other product) or circuit should go "OFF."
- Push the "Reset" button. The light or circuit should go "ON" again.
- Circuit breaker type GFCI devices are checked by pushing the test button on the breaker.
Modern GFCI receptacles and breakers have "self-testing" capabilities but they still should be tested manually per manufacturer's instructions.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence
TESTING AFCI's: An arc-fault circuit interrupter is a device intended to provide protection from the effects of arc faults by recognizing characteristics unique to arcing and by functioning to de-energize the circuit when an arc fault is detected. They should be tested monthly by the homeowner.
- Plug a nightlight (with an "ON/OFF" switch) or other product (such as a lamp or 3-bulb circuit tester) into the AFCI receptacle and turn the product "ON."
- Push the "Test" button located on the AFCI receptacle. The nightlight (or other product) or circuit should go "OFF."
- Push the "Reset" button. The light or circuit should go "ON" again.
- Circuit breaker type AFCI devices are checked by pushing the test button on the breaker.
Modern AFCI receptacles and breakers have "self-testing" capabilities but they still should be tested manually per manufacturer's instructions.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence
GFCI Protection
GFCI PROTECTION CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the kitchen, garage and basement GFCI's. The pictures and bulleted list below document some of those concerns, but not likely all of them. I recommend evaluation and repairs by the licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs at the home. Noted concerns include;
KITCHEN GFCI LOCATIONS:
- 🔹some located Kitchen Receptacles tested as GFCI protected
WITHIN 6' OF SINKS:
- 🔹receptacles under sink not GFCI protected
DISHWASHER:
- 🔹not GFCI protected as currently required. The dishwasher circuit is not GFCI protected as currently required. Depending on how the washer is wired, GFCI protection can either be provided at the unit itself or at the circuit breaker in the electrical panel.
LAUNDRY:
- No GFCI protected receptacles in Laundry area at. Modern standards required GFCI protection of all receptacles in laundry rooms. At the time of inspection there was no GFCI protection at the following locations:
- 🔹washing machine
- 🔹120 volt receptacle
GARAGE:
- Some Garage Receptacles that were tested, tested as NOT GFCI protected. Current requirements call for ALL 120 volt 15 amp and 20 amp receptacles in the garage be GFCI protected. Upgrading to current standards is recommended for improved safety. Some of the Garage receptacles are not GFCI protected at the following locations:
- 🔹receptacles
- 🔹automatic door opener
EXTERIOR/MISCELLANEOUS:
- 🔹weather resistant type receptacles not present
- 🔹no in-use covers in wet areas. The outside receptacle at the _____ side of the garage does not have a proper weather tight "in-use" type cover as currently required.
FINISHED/UNFINISHED BASEMENT:
- 🔹basement receptacles tested as NOT GFCI protected--not required at time of construction but upgrading is recommended. The receptacles in the basement space were not GFCI protected. Modern requirements call for GFCI protection of ALL receptacles in basement spaces whether finished or not and includes all 125 volt and 250 volt receptacles.
BATHROOMS:
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
GFCI Protection in Kitchen and at Other Sinks
Locations of GFCI devices: All located Kitchen Receptacles tested as GFCI protected
Two Kitchen Circuits: Appears to be two separate appliance circuits
In the course of a Standard Home Inspection it cannot always be easily determined if there are two appliance circuits present and the presence of two GFCI devices is not always an indication of two "separate" circuits (two breakers in the electrical panel).
🛑 Safety 📝 Informational note
Receptacles Within 6' of Sinks: GFCI protection in Kitchen
Current requirements call for the disposer to be GFCI protected if the receptacle is located within 6' of the edge of a sink. I recommend frequent monitoring and monthly testing of the GFCI protection per manufacturer's instructions.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence
GFCI Protection in Laundry
Laundry Area GFCI Protection: General Information
Currently all 125-volt & 250-volt, single-phase, 15 and 20-ampere receptacles installed in Laundry Areas shall have ground-fault circuit interrupter protection. The laundry appeared to be wired to current requirements, however not every receptacle was checked.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence
GFCI Protection in Garage
Garage GFCI: Some garage receptacles tested as GFCI protected
GFCI Protection at Exterior and Miscellaneous
Exterior Receptacles: Weather resistant type receptacles, GFCI protected
GFCI's Main Bathroom
BATHROOM GFCI's: All located Bathroom Receptacles tested as GFCI protected where currently required
Sink Receptacles: GFCI protected at: (At receptacle)
AFCI Protection
LIGHTING OUTLET AFCI:
The AFCI protection of the home had the following concerns. The pictures and bulleted list below document some of those concerns, but not likely all of them. I recommend evaluation and repairs by the licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs at the home.
LIGHTING OUTLETS:
- 🔹light outlets NOT AFCI protected. Modern requirements for AFCI protection of lighting outlets in homes covers many locations. In this home none of the lighting outlets tested as AFCI protected, as a fire-safety upgrade,
RECEPTACLES & OTHER OUTLETS NOT PROTECTED:
- Receptacle outlets NOT AFCI protected. Modern requirements for AFCI protection of receptacle and other outlets in homes covers many locations. As a fire-safety upgrade, I recommend having a licensed electrical contractor install AFCI protection where practical or in the context of remodeling where currently required. In this home AFCI protection was missing:
- 🔹 at all locations
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
☠️Carbon Monoxide Detection Systems
See Notes ☠️: below about carbon monoxide detectors
At the time of inspection Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors are not tested. I recommend that prior to move-in, that all Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors be tested and have their batteries replaced. It is recommended that Carbon Monoxide detectors that are older than 10 years should be replaced by a licensed electrical contractor if they are hard-wired; and replaced by the building owner/handy-person if they are battery operated. These devices are currently required, according to Washington State Law to be maintained by the tenant/homeowner according to the manufacturer's recommendations/instructions and are required in all homes.
- For optimum safety, Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors are required in the immediate vicinity of bedrooms and on each floor level of the home and inside of any sleeping room if there is a gas appliance in the room. "Immediate vicinity" is not defined but most manufacturers recommend they be installed between 5 and 20 feet of sleeping rooms. Alarm/detectors must be maintained free of dust and debris which can interfere with operation. They should be installed per manufacturer's instructions . While it is primarily fuel burning appliances the produce carbon monoxide, CO is also produced from electric appliances like toasters and ranges (especially ovens on self clean cycle).
- Please be aware that residential Carbon Monoxide detectors are cumulative and are designed to not sound with low levels of carbon monoxide. Some people are more susceptible than others to low levels of carbon monoxide and I consider it prudent to familiarize yourself with the symptoms/warning signs of Carbon Monoxide. Detectors that meet the UL-2034 requirements for detectors installed in residential construction are not allowed to sound at continuous CO levels up to 30 ppm, 70 ppm for 4 hours, 150 ppm for up to 50 minutes and 400 ppm for up to 15 minutes. CARBON MONOXIDE
- A good low level, UL-2034, 10 year alarm is made by Defender.
- Combination type alarms can be problematic even while meeting "legal requirements" for installation. Carbon Monoxide detectors in conjunction with Ionization type smoke detectors is problematic due to the poor ion technology (see links under smoke alarms previous to this section). The devices also can have different life spans. For best protection, combination type alarms should not be used, even though this is a standard recommendation of manufacturers. The International Association of Fire Fighters (IAFF) specifically recommends against installing combination alarms. Combination type alarms are required to be UL-217 and UL-2034 listed.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
☠️CARBON MONOXIDE CONCERNS:
The CO Detectors of the home had the following concerns. The pictures and bulleted list below document some of those concerns, but not likely all of them. I recommend evaluation/repairs by the licensed electrical contractor or other qualified parties following manufacturer's instructions.
CO DETECTORS:
- 🚩None seen post 2011. I recommend that homeowner/handy-person install carbon monoxide alarm/detector according to the manufacturers specifications wherever missing. These alarm/detectors are currently required in all homes. They are currently required on each floor level of the home and outside each sleeping area of the home. A plug-in type detector with digital readout is preferred. They are required to be maintained to the manufacturer's instructions by the tenant of the home. Sometimes there are combination smoke/carbon monoxide alarm/detectors in the home (verify with builder). Carbon monoxide alarm/detectors had the following issues and/or were missing outside the sleeping room areas:
- 🔹sleeping rooms at main floor level
🛑 SAFETY 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
🔥 Smoke Alarm/Detection Systems
See notes 🛑: below about smoke alarm installation and maintenance
At the time of inspection smoke alarms are not tested. I recommend that prior to move-in, that all smoke alarms be tested according to manufacturer's recommendations and that their batteries be replaced. It is recommended that smoke alarms that are older than 5-7 years should be replaced by a licensed electrical contractor if they are hard-wired; and replaced by the building owner/handy-person if they are battery operated.
- For optimum safety, hard-wired smoke alarms with backup batteries are recommended. At least one smoke alarm should be installed on each floor of the building. Alarms must be maintained free of dust and debris which can interfere with operation.
- Smoke alarm technology is evolving and current wisdom is recommending that only Photoelectric smoke alarms be installed in the building due to the nuisance tripping and other human factors involved with misuse and maintenance associated with Ionization type smoke alarms. It is not possible in the context of the building inspection to determine why types of alarms are installed in the building. You are encouraged to install and maintain any type of alarm in the building and you are encouraged to upgrade alarms to photoelectric type alarms. See the following link for a discussion of Ionization vs. Photoelectric Alarms: Photo-Electric Smoke Alarms and Silent Alarms; Deadly Differences.
- After June 30, 2021 all smoke alarms will be required to meet the 9th (the 8th was never adopted) edition of UL 217. These alarms are designed to reduce issues with previous versions and will be more responsive to multiple kinds of fire scenarios as well as address nuisance tripping issues of previous versions.
- In anticipation of the adoption of the 8th edition of UL 217, Kidde produced a dual sensor alarm that is purported to meet those standards, but given those standards were never adopted, they may or may not be an improvement over just stand alone photo-electric type alarms.
SMOKE ALARM Maintenance
- Clean regularly. Dust and debris will interfere with normal operation.
- Replace batteries at least once a year---or better yet install 10-yr type batteries.
- Schedule regular maintenance and tests. The Consumer Products Safety Commission recommends checking these alarms every Spring & Fall time change. Tests should be performed according to manufacturer's instructions.
- It is not usually possible in the context of a building inspection to determine whether smoke alarms are Ionization type or photoelectric type.
- Installation Recommendations from the National Fire Protection Association
🛑 SAFETY 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence
SMOKE ALARM CONCERNS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the smoke alarms in the home and proper evaluation/repairs by a licensed electrical contractor or other qualified party should be made.
SMOKE ALARM/DETECTOR:
- 🔹smoke alarms should be installed
- 🔹🚩past expected life. The smoke alarms are likely past their expected life at the basement. I recommend replacement of all of the alarms unless it can be shown they are less than 10 years old. If the alarms are more than 10 years old they should all be replaced by a qualified party throughout the home with photo-electric type alarms.
- 🔹🚩smoke Alarms not verified. The presence of smoke alarms was not verified at main floor level. I recommend evaluation/repairs/verification by a qualified party and that all alarms be placed where recommended by current regulations and manufacturer instructions. If the alarms are more than 10 years old they should all be replaced by a qualified party throughout the home with photo-electric type alarms. Information from NFPA
- 🚩None seen. I recommend installation of smoke alarms for improved safety. Smoke alarms were not found in the sleeping rooms or other rooms that could be sleeping areas or at other required locations around the home at the:
- 🔹basement level
- 🔹main floor level
- 🔹inside of main floor bedrooms
- 🔹main floor within 21 feet of bedrooms
🛑 SAFETY 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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Door Bell
Front Door Bell: none found, install as desired
Inspection Limitations / Exclusions Related to Electrical
Electrical System Limitations/Exclusions: Present, Miscellaneous information
The following conditions limited inspection of the electrical system:
LIMITATIONS:
- 🔹Limited access to attic space (s)
- 🔹Limited access to crawl space(s)
- 🔹No access to wall structures--finished
- 🔹No access to floor structures--finished
- 🔹Insulation in Attic
- 🔹Insulation in Crawl Space
- 🔹Furnishings / Storage prevented access to some receptacles outlets
- 🔹Very poor access to garage
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION:
- Low voltage wiring systems, including timers and sensors, are not part of this inspection.
- Security and alarm systems are not within the scope of this inspection.
- Evaluation of auxiliary, low voltage, electric or electronic equipment (e.g., TV, doorbell, computer, cable, lightning protection, surge protection, low voltage lighting, intercoms, site lighting, etc.,) is not performed as part of a standard home inspection.
- Unless otherwise noted no determination is made as to whether any electrical component has the proper UL Listing. Permanently installed light fixtures made in other countries sometimes do not have the proper UL Listing indicated on them.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence
🔥HEATING / ❄️COOLING
Fossil Fuel Systems
Possibility of an Underground Oil tank: Information
It is not always possible to determine if any kind of underground storage tank is present on the site. If a tank is present and has been abandoned, many local ordinances often require that the tank be decommissioned or removed. Each jurisdiction has its own rules regarding decommissioning and they should be consulted regarding specific requirements. Many gas heated homes were once heated with oil and when converted these tanks were never removed. The history of this property is not known to me and therefore I cannot confirm if an abandoned oil storage tank exists on the property. I highly recommend that a search be conducted to determine if any abandoned heating oil tanks remain on this property. Unknown or abandoned tanks are common place. A tank search is performed with specialized sub-surface tank detection equipment. It is possible that a tank may still be present. Finding a tank after ownership can result in a significant expense for removal or cleanup to the new homeowner. The testing of an active heating oil tank or the location of an abandoned heating oil tank is beyond the scope of this home inspection.
🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Evidence of Past Fossil Fuel Heating Systems: Present
It is not always possible to determine if any kind of past fossil fuel heating systems existed on the property. If a tank is present and has been abandoned, many local ordinances often require that the tank be decommissioned or removed. Each jurisdiction has its own rules regarding decommissioning and they should be consulted regarding specific requirements. Many gas heated homes were once heated with oil and when converted these tanks were never removed. The history of this property is not known to me and therefore I cannot confirm if an abandoned oil storage tanks exists on the property. I highly recommend that a search be conducted to determine if any abandoned heating oil tanks remain on this property. Unknown or abandoned tanks are common place. A tank search is performed with specialized sub-surface tank detection equipment. It is possible that a tank may still be present. Finding a tank after ownership can result in a significant expense for removal or cleanup to the new homeowner. The testing of an active heating oil tank or the location of an abandoned heating oil tank is beyond the scope of this home inspection.
EVIDENCE OF PAST FOSSIL FUELL HEATING SYSTEMS WAS NOTED:
- Removed chimney
🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
UNDERGROUND TANKS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the Underground Oil Tank. There was evidence of an underground tank on the property. These tanks can represent pollution hazards as well as collapse hazards. They should be evaluated and removed/replaced/filled by a qualified party as necessary/required.
EXISTING OIL TANK:
- 🔹no evidence seen but suspected. While no evidence of a past oil heating system was noted, the home is of an age where oil heating would have been likely. I recommend further evaluation as to whether there is a tank on the property and verification that any found tanks have been properly removed or decommissioned.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
High Efficiency Gas Furnace
High Efficiency Gas Furnace Location: General Information, Attic
The life expectancy of a high efficiency gas furnace is approximately 20 to 25 years. This figure can vary widely depending on many factors. All such furnaces from this time period should be considered past there useful life and should be replaced for safety and efficiency reasons. Average life expectancy is relevant to the amount of maintenance
The “heart” of a furnace is a metal chamber referred to as a heat exchanger. All or most areas of the heat exchanger are not readily accessible or visible to a home inspector. Therefore, assessment of a furnace is limited to external and operational conditions. The older the unit, the greater the probability of failure. A thorough inspection by a qualified HVAC contractor is advised for a full evaluation of heat exchanger conditions, particularly when the unit is approaching its expected useful life or past when it should have been serviced..
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Manufacturer: Rheem
Model #: Model # NOT determined
Serial #: Serial # NOT determined
Installation instructions: none seen
Newer installations of furnaces require the installation and maintenance instructions to be located at the furnace. None were noted at the time of inspection and they can typically be found on line by searching the model number of the unit.
🔧 Maintenance 📝 Informational note
Manufacture Date: Age of manufacture NOT determined
Drip Legs and Sediment Traps: Sediment Traps (None present)
Many appliances require sediment traps located as close to the appliance as practical. None is present on this appliance and I recommend evaluation/repairs as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber in the context of other plumbing repairs at the home.
🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
-310247.PNG)
Function: Furnace not operated
Condition/Access: Date of last service not determined
Furnaces that have not been serviced annually are more vulnerable to hidden concerns and more invasive investigation is warranted.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Vent termination at: Vent terminates above the roof
Combustion/dilution air taken from space around furnace: Plastic vent to exterior, forced draft (combustion/dilution air taken from space around furnace)
Condensate disposal: General Information
Condensing gas fired appliances create condensation that must be properly disposed of. Also traps in the condensate drain must be provided to prevent bypass of air from outside the unit to inside the unit that occur due to pressure differentials. Locations subject to freezing should be protected from freezing accordingly. No determination is made as to whether this unit is adequately protected or not. Traps must also be kept clean and this is something that cannot be seen at the time of inspection but should be part of routine servicing/maintenance of the
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Drain: Pump Present, Drains to plumbing drain in the basement
Filter at: Location, Return air register at the dining room
Filter Size (Must be verified): Not determined
Electrical Shut-off: Switch next to furnace
Appliance Gas Shut-off: Present within 6 feet of furnace
Thermostat at: Living room
HIGH-EFFICIENCY GAS FURNACE CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the High-Efficiency Gas furnace that should be further evaluated, repaired and maintained as deemed necessary by the licensed HVAC contractor.
FUNCTION:
- 🔹not operated at time of inspection and proper operation should be verified
SECONDARY PAN:
- 🔹secondary pan is missing.
CONDITIONS/ACCESS:
- 🔹poor access. The location of the furnace in the attic is so difficult that I recommend it be relocated to the attic where the unit and all ductwork could be inside the conditioned space. This could not only improve access, but make the unit more efficient and allow the attic to be better insulated and no proper walkway would need to be installed to the unit.
- 🔹inspection limited
COMPARTMENT:
- 🔹rusting
CONDENSATE DISPOSAL:
- 🔹pump not necessary as condensate can drain by gravity
- 🔹drain improperly terminates in plumbing drain with out an air break
- 🔹condensate leaking into insulation
COMBUSTION/DILUTION AIR:
- 🔹adequacy of Combustion Air not determined. It is not always possible to assess at the time of inspection whether there is adequate combustion air provided. It is my intent to report on conditions indicative of the lack of combustion air. A combustion type water heater must have an adequate source of combustion air for the fuel to burn properly. An inadequate air supply may cause incomplete combustion and can produce carbon monoxide. This installation does not appear to have enough combustion air for proper/safe function.
VENTING:
- 🔹non-cellular core type pipe NOT verified
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HIGH EFFICIENCY GAS FURNACE SERVICING:
I recommend servicing of the furnace prior to the next heating season. Servicing should include cleaning of the interior of the furnace compartment, inspecting the furnace venting system, and evaluation for carbon monoxide, in conjunction with all other normal servicing aspects performed by the qualified heating contractor., conditions not noted at the time of inspection should be anticipated, especially with older units, furnaces this age should be serviced annually and It is my opinion that this furnace should be replaced due to age and inefficiency.
List of the "minimum" inspection items to be expected of furnace servicing:
1. Inspect heat exchanger.
2. Inspect and operate heating controls, and calibrate thermostat as deemed necessary.
3. Check ignitor & clean pilot orifice, adjust flame.
4. Check and adjust main burners for proper combustion
5. Inspect and operate furnace safety devices.
6. Check draft and vent or motor assembly.
7. Inspect drive-sheaves, pulleys, and belts. Adjust tension.
8. Lubricate all motors and shaft bearings.
9. Change and/or clean filters.
10. Clean interiors of all heating equipment interior compartments.
11. Inspect all of the venting system, including sections in attic spaces and above the roof.
12. Check and adjust air-flow, and temperature differential
13. Check unit smoke detector, clean filter--if applicable
14. Inspect piping and valves for gas leaks.
This list is meant to be "suggestive" of necessary repairs and not a "prescriptive" list of how to do it. Many appliances have other necessary maintenance requirements and protocols. This list also includes items that may not be applicable with this heating system. It is intended to inform all parties as to why professional evaluation/inspection is necessary.
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Heating and Cooling Distribution
Heating/Cooling: General Information
All habitable spaces in a home require a source of heat capable of maintaining a temperature of not less than 68°F at a point 3 feet above the floor and 2 feet from exterior walls at design heating temperature (23°F in Seattle area). Habitable spaces in a building are those spaces used for living, sleeping, eating or cooking. Bathrooms, Laundries, toilet rooms, closets, hallways, storage or utility spaces and similar areas are not considered habitable spaces. Many of these spaces that do not "require" heat can greatly benefit from being heated, not only for comfort, but to manage moisture and indoor air quality. Unheated spaces should be monitored annually to determine if they are performing as desired, and a heating source should be added as warranted. Portable heaters are not an acceptable substitute for permanent heating sources. Comfort in homes is a function of many factors including activity level of occupants, age of occupants, health conditions of occupants, room temperature, humidity, air movement etc so is never absolute.
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Distribution: Test not performed due to unit not being operated
Air Returns: Minimum 1/2" to 3/4" clearance under interior doors
For proper function of forced air heating systems and exhaust fans, there must be sufficient air flow for the air being exhausted or entering at the heat registers that needs to flow to the furnace air return when it is not located in the same room. This is typically accomplished with adequate clearance under the door (for exhaust fans) or with transoms or other means of allowing for air to enter the room. Rarely would the clearance under doors be adequate by itself to provide return air for the forced air furnace and prevent the room from being pressurized. A pressurized room can result in forcing conditioned air into walls and attic spaces. This flow of air must be maintained or furnace efficiency can be affected and in some cases affect the life of the furnace if air flow through the heat exchanger is reduced. Carpet can greatly restrict this flow.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Ductwork: Ductwork Information
Ductwork Interiors: It is typically not possible to evaluate the interior of ductwork as to condition or the presence of detrimental materials or other conditions. Hidden conditions can include evidence of rodent and/or other vermin activity, dust/debris, water, vegetation, tobacco smoke etc. Is Duct Cleaning Really Necessary? Modern standards call for ductwork in unconditioned spaces to be insulated and all connections sealed with mastic or approved tapes. Sections are required to be properly mechanically fastened (typically with screws, but some are self locking type). Ducts are also required to meet air leakage test requirements. Much of this cannot be determined in the course of a home inspection. Sealing ductwork is one of the most cost effective energy improvements one can do to a home. In this home, the ducwork is installed between the floor levels of the home making the system potentially more efficient than systems that run ductwork in crawl spaces and attics.
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Attic Ductwork: Ductwork insulated in Attic
Duct Cleaning: Is duct cleaning necessary?
Heating ducts can accumulate dust over time. Under most conditions, where filters are properly maintained, cleaning of ductwork is discouraged. Properly cleaning ductwork is more complicated than merely hiring a duct cleaning contractor and having the ducts "cleaned." Standard cleaning protocols can result in introducing more dirt particles into the indoor environment than would occur had the ducts been left alone. There is significant evidence to support the idea that the dust inside ductwork actually acts as a filter itself to promote clean air in the home. Obviously if the ductwork becomes contaminated with toxic chemicals, or have been flooded etc will need to be cleaned and/or possibly be replaced. Ductwork must be adequately protected from dust during remodeling activities and if this is not done the ductwork will likely require cleaning and/or replacement. For more information on the pros and cons of duct cleaning please see: Is Duct Cleaning Really Necessary?
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♻️Air Changes & Energy Efficiency Compliance
Air Change System: No determined
WHOLE BUILDING AIR CHANGE SYSTEM:
Modern homes require a means of changing the air in the home in a controlled manor since 1991. The following conditions related to these requirements were noted and repairs and improvements should be made by a qualified party.
AIR CHANGE SYSTEM:
- 🔹missing in Remodeled homes. At the time the home was remodeled (unless prior to 1991), some method of whole house ventilation would have been required. Lack of installation may be an oversight or be an indication of work being done without permits. I recommend further evaluation as desired. Sometimes these are incorporated on timers installed on bathroom or laundry room exhaust fans. It is possible I missed the timer location or it was hidden. Whole-house air exchangers for cool climates helps reduce excess moisture problems -- like condensation on windows -- that contribute to Mold/Fungal Growth. This is especially true of HRV's that also filter the air as well. It’s the same principle as using your bathroom exhaust fan to remove moisture created by running the shower.
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Inspection Limitations / Exclusions Related to Heating/Cooling
Heating/Cooling Limitations and Exclusions: Present, Not tested
The following limitations and exclusions related to heating and cooling were noted:
HEATING SYSTEM LIMITATIONS:
- 🔹Poor access to furnace
- 🔹Thermostats are not checked for accuracy or timed functions.
- 🔹Determining the presence of asbestos is beyond the scope of the inspection
HEATING SYSTEM NOT TESTED DUE TO:
- 🔹I neglected to operate furnace and I recommend that you have me back to test it if you desire
🔍 Due Diligence
🪟 WINDOWS
Windows
Safety Glazing in the Building: What about Safety Glass?
While determining the presence of "Safety Glazing" in the home is beyond the Standards of Practice, I endeavor to identify safety glazing when possible to improve safety. In this report Safety Glazing is generically used to refer to any of the types of safety glazing including "Laminated Safety Glass", "Tempered Safety Glass", "Wire Safety Glass", "Plastic Safety Films" etc. The requirements for safety glazing in homes has changed over the years and varies from jurisdiction to jurisdiction. Questions of the appropriateness or lack of safety glazing in this home should be addressed to the local building department.
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General Single Pane Windows: Information
Problems with single pane windows are common: broken sash joints, missing glazing, cracks, condensation issues, broken hinge mechanisms, latches, corrosion etc. Until these older units can be replaced, care must be exercised in their use due to the potential for injury from falling sashes, broken glass, and its presence in areas that would today require safety glass etc. There is a presumption that single pane type windows are typically outdated by current standards and replacement is usually advised. Because of this, inspection of these older windows is more casual than it would be if the windows were double pane type windows. Cracks and other conditions consistent with the age of these windows should be anticipated.
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General Double Pane Windows: Information, Double pane windows noted as being unlocked
Problems with double pane windows are common: sash issues, condensation issues, broken hinge mechanisms, broken/missing latches, corrosion, broken thermal seals, defective thermal coatings, failed paint, failed glazing etc.
While I attempt to identify as many defects with windows as possible, not all windows are tested and/or may be obstructed from view (screens, blinds, vegetation etc). This can mean that some issues may go undetected. Typically most issues with the individual windows would not typically be considered "deal breakers" in terms of the purchase of a home/building, and therefore the focus of the inspection is generally on more substantive issues. In addition, windows are typically left the way they are found. If locked they are re-locked, of not locked they are left unlocked, as the reasons for them being either locked or unlocked typically cannot be determined by the inspector. Obviously unlocked windows can represent a security/safety issue and this report will typically indicate when there are unlocked windows in the home.
SOME WINDOWS NOTED AS BEING UNLOCKED:
- For safety I recommend verifying that all windows are locked as desired.
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General Window Information: Installation flashings
When windows are installed and finish materials around them both inside and outside, it is not possible to tell means of flashing the opening. Improperly flashed windows are common and routine monitoring of the installation is recommended. Any stains noted around the interior or exterior should be further evaluated by a qualified party. Installation Best Practices.
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Recent replacement of some windows noted: Recent installation and methods of installation not determined
Exterior Window Sills: Conditions of exterior window sills listed here but recommendations are in Exteriors section of this report, Painted wood
Safety Glazing: Present at some locations
Vinyl Windows: Single hung, Slider, Warm Edge Spacers present
"Warm Edge Spacers" were noted on the windows of this home. This type of seal has a history of poor performance with failure occurring much earlier than thermal seals of other types. This failure mostly occurs on the south and west sides of the home but can happen anywhere. You should anticipate this failure and factor in that some windows will need to be replaced as desired. While mostly cosmetic, failed seals can become unsightly and affect resale value. Failure can occur within 10 years of installation.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Wood Single Pane: In some windows, basement
Window Coverings/Blinds: Blinds not operated
Window coverings and blinds are not inspected for function at the time of inspection except in the process of testing windows for function. I recommend that you test these blinds as desired.
Draw strings and slatted type coverings can be a strangulation hazard for small children. I recommend considering some of the newer types of blinds that are less dangerous to small children. For more information regarding the safety hazards of blinds, see the Consumer Product Safety Commission website at: Window Blind Safety Information
- Move all cribs, beds, furniture and toys away from windows and window cords, preferably to another wall.
- Keep all window cords out of the reach of children. Make sure that tasseled pull cords are short, and that continuous-loop cords are permanently anchored to the floor or wall.
- To prevent inner-cord hazards, lock cords into position when lowering horizontal coverings or shades.
- Repair window coverings, corded shades and draperies manufactured before 2001 with retrofit cord-repair devices, or replace them with today's safer products.
- Consider installing cordless window coverings in children's bedrooms and play areas.
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WINDOW CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the windows of the home. I recommend further evaluation, repairs and improvements of these conditions by a qualified window installation/repair contractor.
RECENT REPLACEMENT:
- 🔹recent installation--methods of installation not determined. The windows have been replaced relatively recently. It is not possible to determine methods or appropriateness of some replacement installations and problems with improper flashing details are common---especially on windows with more exposure to the elements. Areas around the interiors of the windows should be monitored for staining and/or water intrusion and further evaluation may be necessary if these conditions are noted. Usually installations where there is actually wood trim wrapping around the window on the exterior are less problematic.
EXTERIOR WINDOW SILLS:
- 🔹painted-over deterioration/weathering typical of windows in homes this age
VINYL WINDOWS:
- 🔹failed thermal seals
- 🔹failing desiccant
WOOD SINGLE PANE:
- The windows in the home are older style (original) single pane wood windows. The following conditions below were noted. I recommend factoring replacement of all of the windows in the home by a qualified window installation company. All of these windows should be properly maintained until they can be replaced. Window replacement should include evaluation/repair/replacement of trim/sills and related components as well.
- 🔹broken sash components
- 🔹painted shut,
- 🔹poor/missing glazing
- 🔹cracked glass,
Some of the issues will be documented in the pictures below but should not be construed to be all inclusive but instead more representative.
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Limitations/Exclusions Related to Windows
Window Limitations/Exclusions: Restrictions
Inspection of windows was limited by the following conditions:
WINDOW LIMITATIONS:
- 🔹Furnishing/Storage limited inspection
- 🔹Screens can limit inspection of windows from exterior
- 🔹Blinds can limit inspection of windows from interior
- 🔹Some windows painted shut or otherwise inoperable
- 🔹Some windows not accessible
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🚪EXTERIOR DOORS
Front Entryway Door
Home Security: How secure are your doors?
The "Security" of any home is never absolute. At the time of inspection I assess the "basic functionality" of door and window locking mechanisms. No assessment of the individual or overall effectiveness of security is implied. Glass, frames, locks and other elements can be prone to "tampering" and are "limiting factors" of locking mechanisms/systems. All security devices and systems must be balanced against the ease of escape in the event of emergency. Concerns about the home's overall security system should be addressed by a licensed home security company. This information will not be repeated for other exterior doors but does apply to them as well.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (annual) 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
General Door Information: Door is primary egress door 36" by 6'-8" minimum, landings included elsewhere in this report
Door Construction: Steel-Insulated
In-swing: Present
General Conditions: Conditions consistent with age
Door structure/surface: No significant defects noted, some minor mechanical damage/dents common with steel doors
Jamb/Opening/Threshold: No defects noted
Weather-Stripping: Present on top and sides
Weather-stripping on doors should be maintained as necessary. Most types or good substitutes can be found at home maintenance stores.
TYPES OF WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- Foam Compression Type Weather Strip
BOTTOM OF DOOR WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- Weather-stripping is present on bottom of door
THRESHOLD WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- Adjustable Type
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Hinges: No defects noted, They are unnecessarily security type hinges typical of an outswing door
Lockset & Security Mechanisms: Entryway Lockset functioned under test
It is considered good practice to change the locks on homes at the time of purchase. Doors that bind against the door jambs or don't close properly can generally be trimmed or adjusted to function properly. If this condition is caused by door frames that are out of square, it may indicate settlement or unusual movement of the structure, which should be investigated by a qualified engineer.
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Dead-bolt: Present
Glass in Door: Safety Glazing
All glass in doors, where the glass is larger than what a 3" sphere would fit through, is currently required to be safety type glass.
🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
FRONT ENTRYWAY DOOR CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the exterior doors of the home. All should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a qualified door installation contractor or other qualified party.
LOCKSET & SECURITY:
- 🔹🚩security pin enters strike plate. It is common in homes for the lock-set security pin to enter the strike plate hole. When this happens the door can be unlocked from the outside with a credit card (in-swing type) and from the outside with a knife (out-swing type). The strike plates should be adjusted toward the weather stripping to make the door more secure. Adjustments should be made so that the pin does not enter the strike plate when closed.
- 🔹latch can be "credit carded" because it is type of latch with no security pin. The door is not secure because latch can be "credit-carded" to gain entry if dead-bolt is not used.
Concerns will be documented in the pictures below but should not be construed to be all inclusive but instead more representative:
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North Entryway Door
Door Construction: Steel/Metal-Insulated
Out Swing: Pin type hinges
General Conditions: Conditions consistent with age
Door structure/surface: No significant defects noted
Jamb/Opening/Threshold: No defects noted
Weather-Stripping: Present on top and sides
Weather-stripping on doors should be maintained as necessary. Most types or good substitutes can be found at home maintenance stores.
TYPES OF WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- Foam Compression Type Weather Strip
BOTTOM OF DOOR WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- Weather-stripping is present on bottom of door
THRESHOLD WEATHER-STRIPPING:
- Adjustable Type
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Lockset & Security Mechanisms: Entryway Lockset functioned under test
It is considered good practice to change the locks on homes at the time of purchase. Doors that bind against the door jambs or don't close properly can generally be trimmed or adjusted to function properly. If this condition is caused by door frames that are out of square, it may indicate settlement or unusual movement of the structure, which should be investigated by a qualified engineer.
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Dead-bolt: Present
Glass in Door: Safety Glazing
All glass in doors, where the glass is larger than what a 3" sphere would fit through, is currently required to be safety type glass.
🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
NORTH ENTRYWAY DOOR CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the exterior doors of the home. All should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a qualified door installation contractor or other qualified party.
OUT SWING:
- 🔹🚩not security type hinges for out-swing type door. For improved security the hinges on this out-swing type door should be replaced with security-pin type hinges. This prevents removal of the pins from the exterior when the door is closed.
HINGES:
- 🔹not security type hinges
- 🔹missing screws
LOCKSET & SECURITY:
- 🔹🚩security pin enters strike plate. It is common in homes for the lock-set security pin to enter the strike plate hole. When this happens the door can be unlocked from the outside with a credit card (in-swing type) and from the outside with a knife (out-swing type). The strike plates should be adjusted toward the weather stripping to make the door more secure. Adjustments should be made so that the pin does not enter the strike plate when closed.
- 🔹latch can be "knifed" to gain entry if dead-bolt is not used. The door is not secure because latch can be "knifed" to gain entry if dead-bolt is not used..
Concerns will be documented in the pictures below but should not be construed to be all inclusive but instead more representative:
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Door Between Kitchen and Laundry
Unit/House Door: Conditions consistent with age, Included in house doors, glass in door not safety glass
Lockset & Security Mechanisms: Functioned under test, can result in being locked out of kitchen and house
DOOR BETWEEN LAUNDRY AND KITCHEN:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the door between the house and the unit that are in need of repairs, improvements and maintenance. Some of the conditions will be documented below but should not be considered all inclusive.
Replacement of the door can improve overall energy efficiency of the home as well as improve security and safety.
The following conditions were noted:
GENERAL DOOR CONCERNS:
- 🔹not safety glass
- 🔹3-M plastic safety sheet can be added to the glass for improved safety or the glass can be replaced with safety glass.
LOCKING MECHANISMS:
- 🔹🚩risk of being locked out of kitchen. The door lockset is type that one could lock themselves out of the kitchen if the latch locking mechanism is not turned to "unlocked" before exiting the unit. I recommend replacement with a type of lockset that unlocks when you turn the handle.
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Limitations/Exclusions Related to Doors
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Exterior Doors: Present
Inspection of doors was limited by the following conditions:
EXTERIOR DOOR LIMITATIONS:
- 🔹Furnishing/Storage limited inspection
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Interior Doors
Interior Doors/Glass
General Interior Door Information: note regarding all interior doors
For simplification, all of the home's interior doors will be discussed in this section, and specific locations will be noted as warranted in each narrative or in the general notes.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Styles of Doors: Recessed Panel
Interior doors: Doors show signs of "wear and tear" and some damage
Many of the interior doors Doors show signs of "wear and tear" and some damage. Upgrade as desired.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Hinges: No defects noted
Door Stops: Not determined
Glazing related to interior doors: Present
Glass in door: Safety glazing
All glass in doors, where the glass is larger than what a 3" sphere would fit through, is currently required to be safety type glass.
🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Interior Doors
Interior Door Limitations/Exclusions: Present
Inspection of interior doors was limited by the following conditions:
INTERIOR DOOR LIMITATIONS:
- 🔹Furnishing/Storage limited inspection
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence
🖼️INTERIORS
General Building Interiors
Information related to Interiors of the building: Things that make the inspection challenging
The items listed below were present at the time of inspection. These items can conceal damage to walls/floors. Concealed defects are not within the scope of the home inspection. Some of these conditions may only become apparent in the course of remodeling or other more invasive investigations.
IMPEDIMENTS TO INSPECTION:
- Area rugs
- Furnishings
- Built-in cabinets
- Appliances
- Storage items
- Curtains/blinds
- Bookcases
- Paintings/pictures
- Mirrors
🔍 Due Diligence
Habitability, Egress and Escape & Rescue related to sleeping and non-sleeping areas: Current safety guidelines
Listing information for homes often call rooms sleeping rooms according to appraiser records and various other determinations. In this report, while I may refer to rooms as bedrooms, technically rooms that do not have a means of heat, secondary escape and rescue, or sufficient height (as well as numerous other habitability requirements) do not mean current requirements to be considered "habitable." These non-conforming "sleeping rooms" could almost always benefit from improvements for safety and habitability. Minimum height requirement is 7' and may indicate remodeling of the basement without permits or some variance that was permitted.
EGRESS:
- All residential construction requires a path of egress from all habitable areas of the home to the primary egress door. Not every door will or has to meet the requirements of the primary egress door. The path of egress cannot be through a garage. Unless the basement has an door that meets primary door egress requirements there must be a path of egress to the primary egress door wherever that is by means of stairs/ramps etc
ROOM SIZE:
- To be considered habitable spaces (living spaces), all rooms must have a minimum square footage of 70 square feet and at least one horizontal dimension must be a minimum of 7'. Room ceiling height should be a minimum of 7'. Portions of a room with a sloping ceiling measuring less than 5' or a furred ceiling measuring less than 7' from the finished floor to the finished ceiling does not contribute to the minimum required habitable area for that room. Habitable space, hallways and portions of basements containing these spaces should have a ceiling height of not less than 7'. Bathrooms, toilet rooms and laundry rooms are required to have a ceiling height of not less than 6'-8". Measuring every area of the home and doings size calculations is beyond the scope of this inspection but will be reported on when obvious or otherwise determined and brought to my attention.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Basement Escape and Rescue: none
Indoor Air Quality 🌲: IAQ Info
All houses are potentially subject to indoor air quality concerns due to numerous factors such as improper venting systems, out-gassing from construction materials, etc. Air quality can also be adversely affected by the growth of molds, fungi and other microorganisms – most are the result of adverse moisture conditions. A home inspection does not include assessment of potential health or environmental contaminants or allergens. If leakage occurs or detrimental moisture conditions exist or develop the possibility of potentially harmful contaminants exists and therefore should be immediately addressed. For air quality evaluations, a qualified testing firm should be contacted.
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Pre-1978 Structures: Lead pre-1978
Homes constructed prior to 1978 most likely contain paints with some lead. These paints are not considered a problem as long as the paint does not become "friable" or air-borne. Keeping walls and woodwork well painted can minimize exposure to the lead paints. It is recommended that old painted wood be removed and properly disposed of as opposed to sanding and stripping of the woodwork. For additional information contact the EPA at: Lead Information
I can have the home tested for lead based paints for an additional fee. Regardless the date, there is no guarantee houses after this date do not have lead.
LEAD MAY BE MINIMAL DUE TO REMODELING:
- Given the extent of remodeling, it is unlikely that significant amounts of lead are present, but should be anticipated under some layers of current finish materials.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Pre-1986 Structures: Asbestos general information
Asbestos products were commonly used in buildings until around 1986 (give or take a few years) and their presence should be assumed in homes prior to that time period. Common building materials that sometimes contain asbestos are "popcorn" textured ceilings, acoustic tiles, linoleum or vinyl (which might have another surface them), siding, vermiculite insulation, heat duct insulation/tape, heating pipe insulation and paints. Asbestos products are not usually considered to be a problem as long as they are in sound condition and not friable. However, if remodeling is done, a strict safety protocol must be adhered to. There is no way to guarantee that ANY house is completely free of asbestos--even post 1986.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Combustion/Dilution Air: This building has appliances that need combustion air
All combustion appliances require air for proper combustion. Homes with inadequate means of introducing air for these combustion appliances are at risk of the build-up of harmful combustion by-products and back-drafting of the exhaust from these systems. Other mechanical exhaust fans can also compete for intake air and complicate the problem. Assurances are warranted that there is adequate sources of makeup air for both combustion appliances and exhaust fans.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Interior Finish Surface Conditions: 🚩Materials used
Regardless what is recorded and documented below, determining the exact finish materials of the building's wall surfaces can only be determined fully by taking them apart, something not done in a Standard Home Inspection. Types of materials can usually be deduced from incidental visual indicators, like the thickness of walls, the "feel" of the surface, what it looks like where it is exposed in attics or other unfinished area, and/or practices common to the area the home is built in (and the time frame the building was constructed). Any conclusions made should NOT be seen as absolute and merely the best opinion of the inspector. There may also be a mix of different kinds of materials as well as layers of different materials.
GENERAL FLOOR CONDITIONS:
- Generally, throughout the home (including bathrooms, kitchen, laundry etc) the floors have some mechanical damage and wear consistent with age and use. Concerns that warrant additional mention, if any, will be described in more detail in the flooring section of the individual rooms below.
- Floors in the building are vulnerable to mechanical damage, wear, stains, water damage and damage from sun exposure consistent with age and use. Concerns that warrant additional mention, if any, will be described in more detail in the flooring section of the individual rooms below. The following floor coverings were present (including bathrooms, kitchen, laundry etc):
GENERAL WALL AND CEILING CONDITIONS:
- Generally, throughout the home (including bathrooms) the walls and ceilings have some mechanical damage, possible truss uplift, some settlement cracks and some drywall tape joints, and some painting/repair/touch up noted typical of most drywall installations. Concerns that warrant additional mention, if any, will be described in more detail in the walls & ceiling sections of the individual rooms below or in the narrative portion of the report.
🎨INTERIOR RECENTLY REPAINTED:
- Some areas on the interior of the home have been repainted recently. This painting often times conceals damage to the walls and ceilings that would otherwise be apparent. Water damage, repairs, cracks, stains and poor paint coverage are some of the conditions that might be concealed. Some of these conditions will reveal themselves over time.
- It is common for homes to be repainted prior to sale.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Bathrooms: The following bathrooms were present
Full Bathrooms: 1
Sleeping Rooms: 1
Kitchens: 1
Laundries: 1
Closets: Present with built-in structures
In the context of a home inspection, it is not typically possible to determine how adequately closet shelving and hanger structures are installed and whether the installation will support weight or how much weight. The comments and recommendations related to closets throughout this report apply to any closets in the home that have built-in shelving and/or storage structures. Manufacturers of closet "systems" have different requirements for installation, but most have specific requirements for installation on drywall, on wall studs and/or on concrete. Brackets solely supported on the drywall typically are required to have mollies that expand considerably inside the wall behind the drywall. Evaluation of proper support would typically require the removal of some screws and or verifying attachment to studs. Collapse of improperly installed shelving units is common and personal injury or property damage could result.
To avoid repetition, this recommendation will not be repeated for other closet locations, but nonetheless applies.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
BUILDING INTERIORS:
Concerns noted below related to the interior spaces of the home should be evaluated and repaired and repaired as deemed necessary by the appropriate qualified party.
GENERAL INFORMATION:
- 🌳Building Performance Professional recommended. This building could greatly benefit from a full evaluation by a qualified Building Performance Professional, to determine how best to address air quality issues as well as improvements for overall energy efficiency.
- 🔹some baseboard not complete, finish as desired
- 🔹🚩Evidence of heavy smoking. Throughout the interior smells of heavy use of tobacco were noted. Toxic residues from smoking can permeate walls and building materials and heating system ductwork and can be extremely difficult to seal/clean--sometimes requiring removal/replacement of affected materials. Consult with qualified painting contractor as to best options--including proper clean-up/removal.
HABITABILITY/EGRESS:
- 🔹ceiling height less than 6'-8" in basement non-habitable areas
- 🔹non conforming basement spaces. None of the basement spaces are included in this report as "habitable spaces" but some aspects have been reported on throughout the report. It is strongly recommended that if any of these spaces, including the kitchen area, bathroom area and defined rooms are to used for anything more than storage spaces that they be improved to meet the requirements of those spaces. Insufficient headroom is likely the biggest obstacle to use of the basement space for many uses.
ESCAPE & RESCUE:
- 🔹no second means of egress or escape and rescue from basement space
INTERIOR MOISTURE CONCERNS:
- 🔹walls, previous condition that should be monitored
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor (ongoing) 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
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Limitations/Exclusions Related to Interiors)
Interiors Limitations/Exclusions: General Interiors Information
The following limitations and information were present related to the interiors:
INTERIORS LIMITATIONS:
- 🔹Belongings/Storage/Furnishings limited inspection
- 🔹Blinds and curtains limited inspection of windows
- 🔹Floor coverings over concrete limited inspection of Concrete Slab. Hidden conditions are common including: cracks, settlement mold etc.
- 🔹Area-Carpets limited inspection of floors: hidden conditions are common including: previous repairs water & pet damage etc.
- 🔹No comments are offered on cosmetic finishes.
🔍 Due Diligence
Stairs
Stairs to Basement
Landings: Present
Stair Risers: Closed Risers
Stair Treads: Wood
Headroom: Headroom adequate
Presence of Stair Guard: Present
Handrails: Present
BASEMENT STAIR CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the stairs that indicate the need for evaluation and repairs by a qualified stair installation contractor. I recommend such work prior to use of the stairs.
STAIR GENERAL INFORMATION:
- 🔹Poor basement stairs. It is common for stairs to the basement to be of lower quality than stairs in finished areas of the home. Improper side barriers, handrails, tread spacings, head room etc. Changes to these stairs for safety may be warranted but often times adjustments are difficult and/or expensive.
HANDRAILS:
- 🚩Handrail does not conform to current safety standards. Proper handrails on stairs can promote safe use of the stairs and prevent falls that can result in serious injury or even death. Handrails are required to meet specific guidelines on all stairs with 4 risers or more. In some cases they are prudent on stairs with fewer risers. The handrail is required to be graspable as defined in the building codes. The following concerns should be addressed by a qualified party:
- 🔹does not return to wall at top and bottom of railing
- 🔹does not extend all the way from top riser to bottom riser. Handrails are required to run the full length of the stairs from a point vertical above the top riser and bottom riser.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
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🔥Fireplaces
Living Room Free Standing Stove
Gas Unit: 🛑 Fireplace not for use with wood/solid fuels 🛑, installation not complete
Venting/vent clearances at exterior: Direct Vent/Air-Intake, Cap Located adjacent to unit at, west side of the home after it is installed
Appliance Gas Shut-off: Gas shut-off valve is present, Remote (key type, within 6' of unit in same room)
Operating Controls/Instructions: Lighting & Maintenance instructions (Present attached to outside of unit)
FREE-STANDING STOVE CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives and pictures related to the free-standing stove that should be evaluated as deemed necessary by a qualified fireplace installation contractor. Information about the chimney it is connected to can be found in the chimney section of the roofing chapter.
FREE-STANDING STOVE:
- Function not determined and it should not be used until inspected and verified as safe
- Installation not complete---verify proper completion of installation
VENTING:
- Not installed, unit must not be operated
- 🔹abandoned vent for removed gas fireplace in the bedroom can be removed as desired, and roof patched as necessary.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
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Basement West Room
Floors
Carpet: Present, Over concrete
Carpeting when installed in the kitchen is vulnerable to damage from water where flooding can occur. It hides and holds water and odors. Carpet is not recommended in bathrooms for this reason and I recommend upgrading.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence
Walls/Ceilings
Wall/Ceiling General Information: No openable windows present
Drywall: Present
Homes with drywall often have unevenness that is common and considered "normal." While I may comment on such flaws, cosmetic issues are not the focus of the inspection.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence
Concrete/Block/Brick: Concrete
Paneling: Paneling, OSB
⚡Heat
Room Heat: Not determined
🪑Living Room & Dining Room
Floors
Vinyl: Present, Panels
Living Room Walls/Ceilings
Drywall/Plaster: Present
In older homes that have undergone renovation there can be a combination of plaster & lath and drywall walls and ceilings. Unevenness are common and considered "normal." While I may comment on such flaws, cosmetic issues are not the focus of the inspection.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence
⚡Heat
Room Heat: Forced Air
🛌Main Sleeping Room
Escape and Rescue openings
Escape and Rescue and Habitability Requirements for Sleeping Rooms: Current safety guidelines including windows that do not comply
Internet information for homes often call rooms sleeping rooms according to appraiser records and various other determinations. In this report, while I may refer to rooms as bedrooms, "technically" rooms that do not have a source of heating (as well as numerous other habitability requirements) do not meet current requirements to be considered "habitable." These non-conforming "sleeping rooms" could almost always benefit from improvements for safety and habitability. As such the main floor bedroom does not meet these criteria for secondary escape and rescue. It is not within the scope of a standard home inspection to verify compliance with habitability requirements. That said, it is pretty clear that the basement if used as a sleeping area does not meet current escape & rescue requirements.
WINDOW REQUIREMENTS:
- Sleeping room windows that are to be used as secondary escape and rescue requirements, must meet certain size parameters. Not only are they required to be a "minimum" of 24" high and a "minimum" of 20" wide, these minimum dimensions will vary depending on how tall or wide the window opening is as well as whether the window is at grade or at upper levels of the home. There must also be a minimum of 5 sq ft (821 square inches) of "net opening" for windows at grade and 5.7 sq ft (720 square inches) at higher floor levels. The bottom of the window opening must also not be more than 44" above the floor as well. This informational note not repeated for other sleeping rooms. While the bedroom windows are not of proper net opening height when open, a person could possibly get in or out of the windows. Improve as desired.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
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Sleeping Room Escape and Rescue Openings: window present
Floors
Floor Coverings: Some "squeaking" noted
Squeaking floors (when walked upon) are common in all types of construction, show up under different conditions and are not always apparent during inspection. Newer construction utilizes adhesives to reduce the likelihood of squeaks. Their presence sometimes indicates that adhesive has been omitted. There are many other causes of squeaks as well. Sometimes squeaks can be minimized by removal of carpeting and screwing the sub-floor to the joists.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Wood: Present
Homes with wood floors often have unevenness that is common and considered "normal." While I may comment on such flaws, cosmetic issues are not the focus of the inspection.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence
Walls/Ceilings
Wall/Ceiling General Information: Cracks typical of age and construction present throughout home
Some cracks in wall and ceiling finishes can result from normal building settlement This can result in nail pops and are common in some homes. These types of flaws can generally be easily patched--and tend to re-appear over time. While I may comment on such flaws, cosmetic issues are not the focus of the inspection.
OLDER BUILDINGS:
- The walls and ceilings of most older homes show evidence of unevenness, cracks, patching. Defects hidden behind wall paper and paneling, are common.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Drywall/Plaster: Present
In older homes that have undergone renovation there can be a combination of plaster & lath and drywall walls and ceilings. Unevenness are common and considered "normal." While I may comment on such flaws, cosmetic issues are not the focus of the inspection.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence
Sleeping Room Closets
Closet: Present, Built-in shelving present
⚡Heat
Room Heat: Forced Air
Smoke Detector
Present: see electrical section of report
🥧Kitchen
Kitchen Floors
Vinyl: Present, Panels
Kitchen Walls/Ceilings
Drywall: Present
Paneling: OSB on south wall
Drywall/Plaster: Present
Kitchen Sinks
Sink: Spray Wand switched modes normally, Double bowl with T with directional baffle
Sink Type: Stainless Steel
Kitchen Sink Faucet Installation: Water flowed, Water shut-offs present
Hot side: water flowed
Aerator: present
Cold side: water flowed
Kitchen Sink Drainage: Water Drained
While the sink drainage was tested at the time of inspection and no leaking was noted, this should not be construed to mean the sink will not leak in the future or that even current leaking might be concealed. This is especially true of recent repairs/installations where work was done in a less than professional manner. Functional testing of the sink during the inspection will not duplicate normal use. Any leaking noted should be properly repaired as soon as practical and hidden damage is always possible.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor during use 🔍 Due Diligence
KITCHEN SINKS/COUNTERTOPS/CABINETS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the Kitchen sink:
SINK CONCERNS:
- 🔹🚩Sink not properly caulked at connection with countertop. Because the kitchen sink is in a food preparation area the joint between the sink and the countertop should be properly caulked/sealed to make cleaning easier and to reduce spaces where molds and bacteria can grow.
DRAINAGE:
- 🚩Not likely properly vented
CABINET CONCERNS:
- 🔹cutting boards in poor condition
I recommend evaluation and repair by a qualified party.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
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Kitchen Cabinets/Countertops
Countertops: Stone or composite stone
General Information: Some belongings present on countertop
When there are belongings/storage on countertops it is not possible to fully assess the condition of the countertop as items are typically not moved to check covered areas. There may be reasons why I would move something to check, but it should not be considered routine and hidden conditions should be anticipated.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Backsplash: Backsplash is the same as countertops
Cabinets: Natural Finish Wood Cabinets
Cabinets General Information: Cutting boards in poor condition, Euro-Style Hinges
It is not possible in the course of a standard home inspection to determine the adequacy of cabinet attachment to walls beyond noting wrong types of screws or other visual signs of inadequacy. Care should always be taken when loading cabinets heavily as catastrophic failure is not uncommon.
EURO-STYLE HINGES:
- Euro-style hinges are prone to loosening and occasionally need tightening/adjustments to keep doors aligned etc. Falling doors can cause injury and property damage.
CUTTING BOARDS:
- These boards are readily available at Lowes/Home Depot/Cabinet Stores etc. When these boards are damaged and/or unsanitary I recommend that they be replaced by homeowner/handy-person. I recommend that solid wood boards be used instead of veneer wood boards.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🔍 Due Diligence
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Dishwasher
Manufacturer (Average expected life, 12yrs): Whirlpool (Sears/Kenmore), Electrolux (Frigidaire)
Data Plate: .
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Manufacture Date: 2007
Years old: 15
Air Gap: "High Loop" present
Water shut-off: Present under sink cabinet
Function/Testing: Not Operated
Electrical connection: Being on its own circuit was not determined, Electrical disconnect at Electrical Service Panel
Most dishwashers are either required to be or recommended to be on their own circuit. This is not always possible to determine in the course of a home inspection. Tripping of circuit breakers can be an indication of improper wiring.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence
Dishwasher Drain Terminates At: Sink tail piece
Hammer Arresters: present
Hammer arresters are required by modern standards at appliances that have quick shut-off electronic valves (dishwasher, refrigerator, ice-makers, clothes washers etc). These devices protect the valve and plumbing from damage.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
DISHWASHER:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the dishwasher that should be addressed by a qualified appliance installation company, plumber, or other qualified party.
AIR GAP:
- 🔹Air-Gap device missing / but "High Loop" is present
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
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Disposer
Manufacturer (Average life expectancy 10-12 years): In-Sink-Erator
Data Plate: .
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Manufacture Date: 2018
Years old: 4
Function/Testing: Unit operated, using switch
Electrical connection: Switch at countertop, Proper power cord (with plug-in electrical disconnect)
Drain guard: Present
Range
Data Plate: .
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Manufacture Date: 2006?
Years old: 16?
Function/Testing: Components heated-up using normal controls
Ranges are only inspected as to basic function---do they turn off and on. How well they perform is not possible in the context of a standard home inspection. Each users experience can be different. Ranges often have issues with not being level/plumb, oven lights, door gaskets, scorching around gaskets, broken door glass, inadequate/broken door springs, missing shelves/racks, loose/broken door and/or drawer pulls, non-functional indicator lights, non-functional timers, mechanical damage etc. Some of these things may be discussed in the Narrative portion of this report.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor during use 🔍 Due Diligence
Oven function: Components heated-up using normal controls, Broiler turned on, Oven turned on
Ranges are only inspected as to basic function---do they turn off and on. How well they perform is not possible in the context of a standard home inspection. Each users experience can be different. Ranges often have issues with not being level/plumb, oven lights, door gaskets, scorching around gaskets, broken door glass, inadequate/broken door springs, missing shelves/racks, loose/broken door and/or drawer pulls, non-functional indicator lights, non-functional timers, mechanical damage etc. Some of these things may be discussed in the Narrative portion of this report.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence
Gas Range: Important information about gas ranges
Gas appliances in homes, especially tight homes, can increase the risk of poor indoor air quality. No gas appliance should ever be operated without sufficient exhaust and a means of fresh air intake. There is a growing body of science to support this.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Range Gas Shut-off: Behind/Under unit, should be verified
RANGE/COOKTOP:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the cooktop:
CONCERNS:
- Anti-Tipping Device:
- 🔹NOT Installed/Is necessary
INSTALLATION/TESTING:
- No re-ignition feature. Many modern gas ranges have auto-relight functions for the burners. In the event that a gust of wind were to blow out the flame--especially when adjusted to low--the re-light function allows the burner to re-light itself for safety. This particular unit does not appear to have that function and no determination is made as to whether it can be added or not. Upgrade/modify as desired.
- 🔹did not re-light with flame blown out
I recommend evaluation and repair by a qualified party.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
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Refrigerator
Manufacturer (Average expected life, 10-18 yrs): Whirlpool (Sears/Kenmore)
Data Plate: .
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Manufacture Date: 2007
Years old: 15
Refrigerator Temperature: Verify proper temperature
Maintaining proper temperatures inside of refrigerators/freezers can be difficult. Obtaining thermometers to place in refrigerators and freezers to continually monitor interior temperatures is recommended for food safety. When the temperature of the refrigerator compartment is above 38 degrees F, the setting should be lowered for the safe keeping of food. When the temperature of the freezer compartment is above 5 degrees F, the setting should be lowered for the safe keeping of food.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Ice Maker: Ice cubes present, Water supply present
Ice Dispenser & Water Tap: Present
Ice Dispenser: Not operated
Water Tap: Dispensed water
Hammer Arresters: not determined
Hammer arresters are required by modern standards at appliances that have quick shut-off electronic valves (dishwasher, refrigerator, ice-makers, clothes washers etc). These devices protect the valve and plumbing from damage.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Microwave/Hood
Manufacturer (Average expected life, 8 - 10 yrs): White Consolidated Industries (Frigidaire) (Sears/Kenmore)
Data Plate: .
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Manufacture Date: 2016
Years old: 6
Function/Testing: Heated wet paper towel at 20 seconds, Turn table rotated
Exhaust Fan: Present and some means of mechanical ventilation is required by modern standards, Fan holds tissue paper
All kitchens require some means of mechanical ventilation whether it is a ceiling fan, a range-hood or through the wall exhaust fan. It is required to be ducted to the exterior with smooth wall metal pipe, insulated where necessary and have a cap with screen and back-draft damper at its exterior point of termination. This kitchen has a range hood type exhaust fan.
FAN MAINTENANCE: Over time exhaust fans can collect a lot of lint. This lint can become a fire hazard. Regular cleaning of these units should be performed by a qualified party. I recommend they be cleaned once a year until a cleaning history is established. At that point it can be determined if cleaning is necessary more or less frequently. I typically do not dismantle these units to see if they need cleaning or not, so being proactive about recommended. This information will not be repeated for other fan locations in the home.
TISSUE PAPER TEST:
- The typical test to see if a fan in pulling air from the room is done by placing a tissue on the fan grille when it is running. If it will not hold the tissue under test the unit is not functioning properly and further evaluation and repairs is recommended. A second method of testing involves seeing if during operation of the fan enough negative pressure is created for their to be air movement under the closed bathroom door. This can also be tested with tissue paper. These are both limited types of tests.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Vent Pipe: Smooth Wall Metal Duct
Vent Termination: Terminates at exterior Cap, Exterior Cap functioned manually, through the roof
Electrical Connection: Being on its own circuit was not determined
Most dishwashers are either required to be or recommended to be on their own circuit. This is not always possible to determine in the course of a home inspection. Tripping of circuit breakers can be an indication of improper wiring.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence
MICROWAVE/HOOD:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the Microwave and exhaust fan:
DUCTWORK:
- 🔹NOT insulated
VENT TERMINATION:
- 🔹missing. There is no screen installed as required on the cooktop exhaust fan/hood at the east exterior of the home. I do not like screens on this location but they are required. If one is going to be installed it would be better to install it on the outside of the damper. They are prone to clogging with lint/grease over time. Maintenance is necessary regardless.
- Damper:
- 🔹does not close tight
- 🔹mechanical damage to cap
I recommend evaluation and repair as deemed necessary by a qualified party.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
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⚡Kitchen Heat
Room Heat: Forced Air
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Kitchen
Kitchen Limitations/Exclusions: General Information
Evidence of past leaks under kitchen sinks is common. While I endeavor to verify current leaks at the time of inspection sometimes leaks are incidental or due to specific uses not duplicated at the time of inspection. Monitoring of moisture conditions under sinks should be a normal part of routine home maintenance.
Appliances are not moved during the inspection.
Inspection of appliances, if done, should be considered "casual" and should in no way be construed to mean function is adequate. Any testing done is more related to whether they turn on/off or not, not how well they function or do not function. Any information provided is merely a courtesy, as our Standards of Practice do not require inspection of built-in or portable appliances.
KITCHEN LIMITATIONS:
- 🔹Some components not included in this inspection
- 🔹Area-Carpets limited inspection of floors: hidden conditions are common including: previous repairs water & pet damage etc
- 🔹Timers and thermostat accuracy are not tested.
- 🔹Oven self-cleaning operation not determined/tested
BELONGINGS/STORAGE/FURNISHINGS/STAGING:
- 🔹Dishes and other kitchen storage items can limit inspection of cabinets and countertops. These areas should be reviewed during a final walk-through
- 🔹Storage under sink prevented full inspection
- 🔹Belongings/Storage/Furnishings limited inspection
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence
Appliances/Components not inspected or partially inspected: Refrigerator(s), Dishwasher(s), Disposer(s), Microwave(s), Range(s), Exhaust vent(s)
🛀Main Bathroom
Bathroom Floors
Vinyl: Present, Panels
Bathroom Walls/Ceilings
Drywall/Plaster: Present
Bathroom Sink
Sink: Single bowl
Sink Type: not determined
Bathroom Sink Faucet Installation: Water flowed, Water shut-offs present
Hot side: water flowed
Aerator: present
Cold side: water flowed
Bathroom Sink Drainage: Water Drained
While the sink drainage was tested at the time of inspection and no leaking was noted, this should not be construed to mean the sink will not leak in the future or that even current leaking might be concealed. This is especially true of recent repairs/installations where work was done in a less than professional manner. Functional testing of the sink during the inspection will not duplicate normal use. Any leaking noted should be properly repaired as soon as practical and hidden damage is always possible.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 📝 Informational note
Bathroom Cabinets and Accessories
Cabinets: Painted Wood/Laminate Cabinets
Cabinets General Information: Euro-Style Hinges
Towel Bars/Hooks: present
Toilet Paper holder: present
Bathtub and Enclosure
BATHTUB AND/OR BATHTUB/SHOWER: Multi-Piece, Acrylic/Fiberglas type tub/shower unit, Stains present
Acrylic, fiberglass and other resin-based pre-fab bathtub units are subject to damage with normal use or improper maintenance. Surfaces may become scratched, discolored and/or difficult to clean. Cracks can also develop. These may not be readily visible; and may open up depending on shower usage. Check periodically for damage and resultant leakage.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed)
Tub faucet/fixture: Water flowed, Single handle mixing valve
Hot side: water flowed
Cold side: water flowed
Flow of water at shower: Water flowed
Tub Drainage: Water drained, Tub Overflow
Tub overflows are not tested due to the high likelihood the gaskets will leak. Care should be exercised in filling tubs to not allow water into the overflow. While they will drain away the bulk of water, some amount of leaking should be anticipated. As an improvement, have the licensed plumber check the gasket and make repairs deemed necessary in the context of other plumbing repairs made at the home. Again, it should be assumed these overflows will not be water tight. water tight.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor during use 🔍 Due Diligence
Stopper: Pop-Up Stopper present
Curtain/Glass: Curtain Rod Present
Toilet
Toilets: Flushed properly at time of inspection, Water flowed to toilet
Tank: No issues noted
Bowl: floor around toilet checked with a moisture meter, Caulked to floor
When applicable (not installed on concrete) floors around toilets are checked with a moisture meter. This information will not be repeated for other toilet locations.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
TOILET CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists and narratives related to the toilet in the main bathroom that should be evaluated and repaired as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber or other qualified party.
TANK:
- 🔹water level too high. The toilet tank water level in the main bathroom is too high allowing the water to run continuously. This can waste considerable water.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
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Bathroom Vent
Window : Present
By current standards, all bathrooms are required to have mechanical ventilation. At one time windows were considered adequate and and open window will still clear humid air from showering quicker than an exhaust fan. For best results, pre-heat the bathroom with a portable heater or other means for at least 10 minutes. Warm air can contain more moisture and will result in less condensation on the walls making moisture removal easier. Because exhaust fans can more predictably be used and even installed on timers, all bathrooms should have a functional exhaust fan. This information not repeated for other bathrooms.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Bathroom exhaust fan: Present and some means of mechanical ventilation is required by modern standards, Fan maintenance, Light/Heat/Vent Unit
All bathrooms require some means of mechanical ventilation whether it is a ceiling fan, or through the wall exhaust fan. It is required to be ducted to the exterior with vent pipes that are insulated where necessary, and have a cap with screen and back-draft damper at its exterior point of termination. This bathroom has a ceiling type exhaust fan.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Over time exhaust fans can collect a lot of lint. This lint can become a fire hazard. Regular cleaning of these units should be performed by a qualified party. I recommend they be cleaned once a year until a cleaning history is established. At that point it can be determined if cleaning is necessary more or less frequently. I typically do not dismantle these units to see if they need cleaning or not, so being proactive about cleaning is recommended. This information will not be repeated for other fan locations in the home.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Exhaust Fan Make-up Air: Minimum 1/2" to 3/4" clearance under interior doors
For proper function of exhaust fans, there must be sufficient air flow for the air being exhausted. This is typically accomplished with adequate clearance under the door or with transoms or other means of allowing for air to enter the room.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🐞 WDO’s 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Function: Fan turns on, Heater functioned, Light turned on, Night-light turned on, Fan holds tissue paper
The typical test to see if a fan in pulling air from the room is done by placing a tissue on the fan grille when it is running. If it will not hold the tissue under test the unit is not functioning properly and further evaluation and repairs is recommended. A second method of testing involves seeing if during operation of the fan enough negative pressure is created for their to be air movement under the closed bathroom door. This can also be tested with tissue paper. These are both limited types of tests.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor during use 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Ductwork: Flex Plastic Duct, Vent pipe insulated
Vent Termination: Through the wall type vent
EXHAUST FANS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists and narratives related to the laundry exhaust fan:
COMPONENTS/CONDITION/FUNCTION:
- 🚩Insulation baffle missing. When the insulation baffle is not present it should be verified that units with heating components are rated to be in contact with insulation and if not, a proper separation should be installed or the fan should be upgraded for improved safety and energy efficiency. Before the additional insulation is added to the attic it should be verified a proper baffle is installed or that the unit is rated for insulation contact.
VENT TERMINATION:
- Exhaust improperly terminated:
- 🔹damper missing--all exhaust vent caps require a damper for energy efficiency. Without a damper, the damper in the unit will open when the house is under negative pressure, resulting in air bypassing the damper.
I recommend evaluation and repairs as deemed necessary by a qualified party.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
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⚡Heat
Bathroom Heat: Forced Air
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Bathroom
Bathroom Limitations/Exclusions: General Bathroom Information
The following limitations and information were present related to the bathroom:
BATHROOM LIMITATIONS:
- 🔹Storage under sinks(s) limited inspection
- 🔹Area carpets and other furnishings on floors can conceal damage to floors
- 🔹Towels and/or bathmats placed on tub surfaces can conceal damage
- 🔹Sink and tub overflows are not tested.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
🧺Laundry
Laundry Floors
Vinyl: Present, Sheets
Laundry Walls/Ceilings
Drywall: Present
Homes with drywall often have unevenness that is common and considered "normal." While I may comment on such flaws, cosmetic issues are not the focus of the inspection.
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🔍 Due Diligence
DRYER
Dryer 🛑: GENERAL DRYER SAFETY INFORMATION & RECOMMENDATIONS, Did not operate dryer
Dryer exhaust ducts should be independent of all other systems, should convey the moisture to the outdoors, should terminate on the outside of the building in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions and should be equipped with a back-draft damper.
- Exhaust ducts (from the Laundry Room wall to the point of termination at the exterior) should be constructed of rigid metal ducts, having smooth interior surfaces with joints running in the direction of air flow. Screens should not be installed at the duct termination. Exhaust ducts should not be connected with sheet-metal screws or any means which extend into the duct more than 1/8". (Screens and screws can trap lint.)
- Every dryer should have a screen filter to help keep dryer lint from entering the vent pipe itself. This filter must be maintained clean at all times and clogging this screen will result in increased drying time as well be a fire hazard. It is recommended the filter be cleaned between every use of the dryer. Some fabric softeners, sheet or liquid types, also clog these screens and air flow is reduced even when the screen "looks" clean. Avoiding these products is recommended and using more natural alternatives is a possibility.
- The short piece of duct that connects the dryer to the pipe that runs to the exterior of the building is called the dryer transition duct or connector. This connector is required to be UL-2158A listed and be constructed of smooth wall metal, corrugated metal, or foil types that are UL-2158A listed. Dryer manufacturers do not recommend foil type connectors, and most “common” foil type air connectors do not meet the required standard. Under extreme heat (during field testing) aluminum ducts of all kinds do poorly as connectors (even when UL-2158A listed), but the common foil types perform much worse and should never be used as transition duct. All of these types of transition ducts are extremely vulnerable to mechanical damage, which results in either leaks or restriction of air flow. There is one foil type dryer transition duct, that exceeds UL-2158A standard that holds up much better under extreme heat than either smooth wall metal or corrugated metal and is the one I recommend as best practice. DryerFlex™ type of transition connector typically cannot be purchased from your local big-box stores and is sold by duct cleaning and maintenance companies--or can be ordered on line.
- Regardless of code or UL listing, the National Fire Prevention Association (NFPA) recommends only rigid metal or corrugated metal transition duct be used. NFPA Dryer Safety Tips
- Given dryers are one of the most common causes of household fires, I consider it prudent to use the best transition duct possible and to keep the vent system and dryer itself as free of lint build-up as possible. 🛑 Annual professional cleaning is recommended 🛑.
🛑 SAFETY 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence
Manufacturer (Average expected life, 11 -18 yrs): Not determined
Model #: Model # NOT determined
Serial #: Serial # NOT determined
Manufacture Date: Age of manufacture NOT determined
Gas Dryer: Gas is Available, Lint filter not inspected
Dryer Gas shut-off: Gas shut-off present
.
 |
Electric Dryer: No electric option present
Ducting (from transition duct to exterior): Vent pipe from Transition Duct to point of termination at Exterior
Dryer vent pipe requirements for any particular brand of dryer cannot usually be determined during a typical home inspection. All dryer manufacturers have maximum lengths of runs and those lengths can be greatly reduced by whether the vent pipe is vertical or horizontal, how many elbows the run has and even the type of termination cap. All new or replacement installations should verify that any piping already in place meets the requirements of the specific dryer manufacturer and modified as deemed necessary by the appliance installer per manufacturer's installation instructions.
PIPE TRAVELS THROUGH: Wall
MECHANICAL ATTACHMENT: some sort of plastic ties
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Vent Termination: Exterior Cap, Single flap type cap
DRYER CONDITIONS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists, narratives, and pictures related to the dryer that should be addressed by a qualified party.
TRANSITION DUCT:
- 🔹🚩Foil flexible duct. Most flexible metal foil type dryer transition duct is considered less desirable and not allowed by most manufacturers, even if it meets UL 2158A, Class 0, requirements. If your dryer is connected with this type of vent pipe I recommend replacement of the pipe with smooth wall metal type pipe or approved flexible metal type pipe. This foil type pipe is considered a fire hazard.
VENT TERMINATION:
- 🚩"Cage" type vent cap. The vent cap for the dryer has a cage type cover. These cages tend to plug with lint. I recommend removal of the cage to allow for better flow of air out of the vent. Maintaining these vents free of lint should be done on a monthly basis until the necessity for less frequent cleaning can be determined. Clogged dryer vents, besides being a fire hazard, can result in longer drying times.
- 🔹single flap type cap (with "cage" type cover)
- 🔹cap stuck in open position. The dryer vent cap is stuck in the open position. This can allow vermin entry into the vent and allows allows cold air to be drawn into the vent when the house is under negative pressure. Oftentimes, when one opens the dryer in the winter and it is VERY cold inside the dryer, this can be an indication the vent is stuck open. The cap should be inspected monthly to verify it is functioning properly and maintained properly.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor monthly ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
 |  |
WASHER
Washer: Did not operate Washer
Manufacturer (Average expected life, 8-16 yrs): not determined
Model #: Model # NOT determined
Serial #: Serial # NOT determined
Manufacture Date: Age of manufacture NOT determined
Electrical connections: 120 Volt Washer Outlet
Water Supply: Water shut-off's present
Type of hoses: Stainless steel jacketed hoses
Hoses, on washing machines are under constant pressure and are at risk of spontaneous rupture. Some hose manufacturers even print expiration dates on the hoses as to when they should be replaced by. Consider upgrading these hoses to newer stainless steel jacketed type with flood-stop devices; monitor existing hoses frequently and replace them by their expiration date--replacement is typically recommended every 5 years regardless the type.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Hammer Arresters: present
Hammer arresters are required by modern standards at appliances that have quick shut-off electronic valves (dishwasher, refrigerator, ice-makers, clothes washers etc). These devices protect the valve and plumbing from damage.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Laundry Ventilation
Window : Present
By current standards, all bathrooms are required to have mechanical ventilation. At one time windows were considered adequate and and open window will still clear humid air from showering quicker than an exhaust fan. For best results, pre-heat the bathroom with a portable heater or other means for at least 10 minutes. Warm air can contain more moisture and will result in less condensation on the walls making moisture removal easier. Because exhaust fans can more predictably be used and even installed on timers, all bathrooms should have a functional exhaust fan. This information not repeated for other bathrooms.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Laundry Exhaust fan: None see narrative below
EXHAUST FANS:
There were issues documented below in bulleted lists and narratives related to the laundry exhaust fan:
COMPONENTS/CONDITION/FUNCTION:
- 🚩Fan missing. All laundries should have exhaust fans to the exterior for operation during use of the washer and dryer.
I recommend evaluation and repairs as deemed necessary by a qualified party.
🛑 Safety 🔨Repair 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
⚡Laundry Heat
Room Heat: None present see heating/cooling section of report
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Laundry
Laundry Limitations/Exclusions: Laundry General Information
Evidence of past leaks under laundry sinks is common. While I endeavor to verify current leaks at the time of inspection sometimes leaks are incidental or due to specific uses not duplicated at the time of inspection. Monitoring of moisture conditions under sinks should be a normal part of routine home maintenance. The following limitations and exclusions were noted related to the laundry:
LAUNDRY LIMITATIONS:
- 🔹Appliances are not moved during the inspection
- 🔹Inspection of appliances, if done, should be considered "casual" and should in no way be construed to mean function is adequate. Any testing done is more related to whether they turn on/off or not, not how well they function or do not function. Any information provided is merely a courtesy, as our Standards of Practice do not require inspection of built-in or portable appliances.
- 🔹Storage items can limit inspection of cabinets and countertops. These areas should be reviewed during a final walk-through.
- 🔹Dryer not inspected or only partially inspected
- 🔹Washer not inspected or only partially inspected
BELONGINGS/STORAGE/FURNISHINGS/STAGING:
- 🔹Belongings/Storage/Furnishings limited inspection
- 🔹Area-Carpets limited inspection of floors: hidden conditions are common, including: previous repairs, water & pet damage etc
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
🐞WDO's & Pests
🐞Wood Destroying Insects, Fungi and Conducive Conditions
🚩Washington State Rules and information related to WDO's:Duties of the Licensed Structural Pest Inspector
🐞 In accordance with the provisions of the Revised Code of Washington (RAW) 15.58.450, this report relates to a single sale, transfer, exchange, or refinance and is not transferable to and may not be relied upon by parties involved in any subsequent sale, transfer, exchange, or refinance of the same property.
The findings listed within this report are determined by the inspector based on a visual inspection conducted in accordance with Washington Administrative Code (WAC) 16-228-2005 through 2045 and are subject to the limitations within this report, the standards listed below, and as modified by any and all associated reports attached.
This inspector endeavors to perform their services in a professional manner consistent with the care and skill ordinarily exercised by structural pest inspection professionals. This inspector will re-perform any services not meeting this standard without additional compensation.
For every inspection, a "site-plan" diagram can be prepared detailing the locations of Wood Destroying Organism issues. WAC 16-228-2045 requires that a diagram be prepared for WDO Inspection Reports. A copy is available upon request.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note
Either wood destroying organisms are present or conducive conditions are present: WDO's and/or Conducive Conditions
Limitations and Exclusions related to WDO's: General considerations
Many Wood Destroying Organisms have dormant periods and can operate unseen behind walls and insulation. While I attempt to identify rot and insect infestation whenever I can, there can never be any guarantee that there are no infestations of any kind in the building just because infestations were not seen at the time of inspection. Maintaining the building free of Wood Destroying Organisms is an ongoing process that requires vigilance and immediate attention when discovered.
Interiors of walls and finished floors/ceilings/roofs can not be "directly" inspected for Wood Destroying Organisms.
No treatment of Wood Destroying Organisms is provided as part of a Standard Home Inspection.
LIMITATIONS & EXCLUSIONS:
- Some attic spaces were inaccessible at time of inspection
- Some crawl space areas were inaccessible at time of inspection
🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁🗨 Monitor annually 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
🐭Pests and Vermin Related to the Building and Property
Rodents: General information
There are numerous rodents that represent a nuisance as well as a health hazard within homes. Rats (Norway Rats and Roof Rats), squirrels, mice (including White Footed Deer Mice), and voles are common in our area. Control of these animals, when they become a nuisance, requires different solutions and often professional intervention by a licensed Pest Control Operator. Furniture, refrigerators, ranges, dishwashers, whirlpool baths and other items are not moved to check these common areas that might conceal evidence. Some amount of hidden evidence should be anticipated. Vermin that enter homes must be kept out by properly maintaining the home well sealed against infiltration. It is important to restrict food sources by keeping the premises clean with food sources inaccessible. This information will not be repeated at other locations throughout the report to minimize repetition. That I did not note any evidence of rodents should not be construed to mean they are not present.
🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
❓Last-But-Not-Least
Things to remember
Things for sellers/owners, about what buyers will want to know: even if the house is not now for sale, see notes below
Things buyers will want to know:
- Buyers may request documentation of jurisdictional oversight regarding:
- 🔹electrical work
- 🔹plumbing work
- 🔹HVAC work
- Buyers sometimes ask for:
- 🔹samples or records of paint colors used on the premises
- 🔹records of major improvement /repairs (remodeling, new roof, etc.)
- 🔹all available owner's manuals for: Furnace, Appliances, Fan Timers etc
- 🔹records of pest treatments
- Buyers will want:
- 🔹keys/combinations to all locks
- 🔹information on decommissioned oil tanks
- 🔹information on decommissioning of septic systems
🔍 Due Diligence
Receipt -- 📚PORTAL to the FULL REPORT
1947 Olds Ave, Seattle, WA 98155
| Inspection with digital report | $925.00 |
| $NaN | |
| $NaN | |
| PAID |
Charles Buell Inspections Inc
C/O Charles Buell Inspections
17123 22nd Ave NE
Shoreline , WA 98155
206-478-7371
Signed Contracts
Charles Buell Inspections Inc
206-478-7371
charlie.buell@comcast.net
https://www.buellinspections.com/
Inspected by Charles Buell Inspections, WA State Inspector License
No. 220, WA State Pest License
No. 67488
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