Repairs

• G-2 Grounds:

  Typical cracks were noted in driveway and patio flatwork. No immediate repair appears necessary, though water will continue to deteriorate the surface until the driveway is repaired or replaced. Regular sealing of small to moderate cracks with a quality exterior flexible sealant can minimize water penetration and prolong the life of the flatwork.

• G-4 Grounds:

  Overall, numerous repairs are needed to the exterior stairs to ensure safe and reliable performance. I recommend additional inspection of the exterior stairs by a qualified general contractor. Examples of observations noted during inspection include: large openings, no graspable handrail (both front and yard stairs are missing).

• G-5 Grounds:

  Localized areas of rot and loose and damaged fencing was noted. This is characteristic of older fencing. Implement repairs to the fencing as needed until updating. The urgency of this project is subjective. The timing for and scope of repair will depend on how much the occupant wants to have a fence and what they want it for.

• ESDW-1 Exterior Siding, Doors and Windows:

  Localized paint failure was noted at the exterior see especially where exposed to the weather. Implement localized painting as needed.

• DPB-1 Decks, Porches and Balconies:

  The deck ledger board has been installed over the siding with no flashing installed. This is not a recommended installation as this important structural board has less purchase into framing making the deck more vulnerable to collapse. This is also a more difficult installation to flash and can allow water to get trapped between the deck and the siding causing rot and a conducive pest condition. This can be difficult to correct at this point. Consult with a qualified general contractor about options for repair.

• DPB-2 Decks, Porches and Balconies:

  The softwood decking on this deck is getting old. Roughly 5-10% of the decking is starting to decay. I would expect the need to continue to make spot repairs until the decking is systematically updated. Temporary repairs can be made by replacing the worst boards, re-setting loose nails and cleaning and re-staining the wood but this deck needs to be re-decked in the near term.

• DPB-3 Decks, Porches and Balconies:

  The decking on this deck has been painted and is exposed to the weather. This will allow water to penetrate the wood and can hasten the deterioration process. Localized soft spots were found, but there appears to be some useful remaining service life. I recommend replacing this decking in the near term for safety and reliability. Please note that the structure of the deck is treated lumber and should be re-usable.

• DPB-4 Decks, Porches and Balconies:

  The roof over the entry is not built correctly. It is being held up by 2 screws into a ledger type board. This risks failure of the structure. Screws should not be used because they are not for weight bearing. The post should hold up the beam. Have a contractor rebuild this cover.

• G2-2 Garage:

  The auto-close hinges on the garage occupant-door are not closing the door completely. This safety device is recommended to ensure the door is closed to keep pollutants and even fire from spreading into the house. Repair as needed. The door is difficult to close and does not latch properly.

• ES1-1 Electric Service:

  An inadequate working clearance was noted in front of the electric panel. This presents a potential safety hazard, especially for people working on or inspecting the electric panel. A 30-inch wide and 36-inch deep unobstructed working clearance is recommended for improved safety. Consult with a general contractor or licensed electrical contractor to further evaluate this condition and relocate the panel or improve clearances and access as needed.

• EDFW-1 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

  The open electrical splices in the garage should be further evaluated and repaired by a licensed electrical contractor. All wiring splices should be contained inside listed junction boxes. Open or running splices are a sign of amateur or incomplete electrical work and could indicate a need for additional repairs that are latent or concealed. Have this further evaluated and repaired as recommended by a licensed electrical contractor.

• EDFW-2 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

  The GFCI protected receptacles did not respond to testing and may be defective - they did not trip when tested. Have these receptacles repaired or replaced as needed.

• EDFW-3 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

  Hire a licensed electrician to eliminate all open grounds. This is a common condition in older buildings (prior to 1962) where three prong receptacles have been installed on an older two wire system. This creates a safety hazard as it is false advertising; appliances that rely on an equipment ground to discharge a fault can be plugged into ungrounded circuits. This disables the important safety feature of an equipment ground. Proper repair can include:

  • Running an equipment grounding conductor or a new three-wire circuit
  • Filling the third prong of the receptacle or restoring a two-prong receptacle or
  • Installing GFCI protection for this circuit and labeling the open ground receptacles

  If GFCI protection is used, the outlets on this circuit should be labeled so it is clear they are protected.

• EDFW-4 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

  The loose electric receptacles in the bathroom should be secured to prevent accidental damage to the wiring connections. Securing loose receptacles can often be done by just tightening some set screws between the receptacle and the junction box, though sometimes it can get more complex if the box itself is loose. Repair as needed.

• EDFW-5 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

  The use of GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) protection is inconsistent with modern minimum standards for safety. GFCI protection is recommended for the electrical receptacles in the following locations: the two dedicated kitchen appliance circuits, all receptacles within 6 feet of a sink, bathrooms, exterior, garage, unfinished basements, laundry and all wet and damp locations. GFCI's protect against electrocution by limiting the duration of an electrical shock. These are an important modern safety feature that have proven to save lives. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and update GFCI protection for improved safety. Examples of observations noted during inspection include: kitchen (one circuit is protected but not both- or it doesnt trip), exterior (GFCI receptacles present but wired incorrectly).

• EDFW-6 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

  The GFCI receptacle is backwards. The reset button turns the power off and the test button turns it back on. Have it further inspected and repaired by an electrician. It is also an open ground.

• EDFW-7 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

  An inoperative receptacle was noted. Have the receptacle further evaluated and repaired by a licensed electrician.

• EDFW-8 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

  Multiple inoperative lights were noted: This is likely due to bulbs being burned out, but could be due to an inoperative fixture, circuit or switch. Replace bulbs or repair lights as needed.

• EDFW-9 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

  Carbon monoxide alarms were found and noted during inspection, but they have not been located adequately. The default safety standard is 1 / floor and 1 outside of all sleeping areas. Be sure to install and check these important safety devices regularly with the test button to ensure they are operational.

• EDFW-10 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

  Modern standards recommend smoke alarms in all bedrooms, in all hallways outside bedrooms and at least one on each floor of the building. At the time of inspection smoke alarms were incomplete in the bedrooms.

• HCFV-1 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

  This gas forced air furnace is old and is past its useful design life. The average service life of natural gas and propane forced air furnaces is 15-20 years. Funds should be reserved to replace this furnace at any time. The risk of running a gas forced air furnace past its useful design life is that the furnace could continue to operate with a cracked heat exchanger. This is a safety hazard that can allow products of combustion enter the supply air to the home. Furnace heat exchangers are not visible to inspection without expensive diagnostics, so is it difficult to know when the furnace could be posing a safety hazard to the occupants. Older furnaces like this are also less reliable and subject to the need for constant repairs. It can be more cost-effective to simply replace these furnaces on a 20 years schedule. Examples of specific observations noted and testing procedures done during inspection include: it fired and distributed heat at the time of inspection.

  I recommend having this furnace serviced and the heat exchanger inspected by a qualified heating contractor. Updating this furnace is recommended. If this furnace is kept in service, budget to update at any time and install carbon monoxide alarms in the home. Standards for CO alarms are 1 / floor and 1 outside all sleeping areas.

• HCFV-3 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

  Holes were drilled into the tile in a bathroom. This may be being used as a heat vent. As such, it is not big enough and incorrect. Inquire with seller as to why these holes were drilled and if it is for heat, have the tile cut to accept a proper vent cover as this is inadequate.

• P2-1 Plumbing:

  The static water pressure in the home tested above 80-psi (pounds per square inch), the maximum water pressure recommended. High water pressure can stress the supply plumbing system and make it more vulnerable to leaks. A pressure reducing valve was noted on the main water inlet suggesting that it may quire adjustment or there could be issues with thermal expansion due to water heating. It is also possible that hose bibs, where I tested the water pressure, are not protected by this device and that the rest of the house is protected. I recommend having this condition further evaluated and adjusted or repaired as recommended by a licensed plumbing contractor.

• P2-2 Plumbing:

  The supply pipe insulation is incomplete in the crawl space. Be sure all supply lines in unheated spaces have been adequately insulated to protect from freezing conditions that could damage the pipes and to prevent heat loss.

• P2-7 Plumbing:

  A bollard is needed to protect the water heater in the garage from physical damage. When the water heater is located where it could be damaged by vehicles, "approved" protective bollards (or other means of protection) are required for safety. I recommend that bollards be installed by a qualified plumber or other qualified party. Because current building standards do not specify what "approved" means, it is left up to jurisdictional interpretation. The commercial building codes do define what a bollard installation must look like and some jurisdictions use those guidelines. I would consider this best practice. Most jurisdictions accept bollards that are bolted to the floor--and expectations of them stopping a moving vehicle should be lowered. How they will perform is beyond the scope of this inspection. Appliances at the exterior of the home are required to meet the commercial installation standards listed below

• I-1 Interior:

  The wall to wall carpeting is past the end of its useful life. Replacement / updating is recommended.

• I-2 Interior:

  The laminate flooring has gaps at the joints. The edges are chipped. This cannot be repaired and replacement is recommended.

• I-4 Interior:

  No door stops have been installed and wall finishes have been damaged. Install door stops and have the drywall finishes repaired.

• I-5 Interior:

  Drywall has been installed around a pipe (furnace/water heater venting?) in a closet. It has not been framed correctly and the drywall can fall out of place. Have a contractor repair this.

• I-6 Interior:

  A strong incense / "freshener" was being used inside the home during inspection. This takes away one of my senses during inspection. I recommend asking the seller to refrain from burning this for several days and then come back to re-inspect the air quality yourself as I was unable to assist with this today. These are often used to cover up pet or tobacco odors.

• I-7 Interior:

  A hole was noted in the hollow core door. Replacement of this door is recommended for a proper finish.

• I-8 Interior:

  A lost seal was noted in the glazing. This has resulted in fogging between the panes of glass that cannot be cleaned without glazing repair or replacement. Hire a glazing specialist to further evaluate and repair or replace all glazing with lost seals.

• I-9 Interior:

  Screens are missing for the windows and sliding glass doors. Inquire if seller has screens.

• K-1 Kitchen:

  The loose faucet handle for the kitchen sink should be secured to prevent leaks and/or physical damage. It hits the window sill when turned to hot. This prevented the water from getting to its capacity.

• K-2 Kitchen:

  Water was noted to be backing up out of the air gap when the dishwasher was draining. This is not the intended function of this device and it could cause water damage on the countertop and around the sink. Hire a licensed plumber to repair ASAP to prevent water damage. This can be caused by several different factors: the air gap is sometimes installed backwards or kinks or other obstructions can block the drain line. Sometimes, when on a disposer, the knockout was never removed from the disposer drain. Repair as needed.

• K-4 Kitchen:

  The read out for the controls on the oven are burned out or not working properly.

• K-5 Kitchen:

  The refrigerator is dented in multiple places.

• A-2 Attic:

  The weather strip for the attic access hatch is missing and the hatch is leaking air. This should be better air sealed to prevent heat migration into the attic.

• A-3 Attic:

  Stains were noted on the roof decking material when viewed from the attic. This indicates the attic has experienced prior condensation problems during the cold weather months. Generally, the way to prevent seasonal condensation in an attic involves a 4-pronged approach:

  1. Air seal the ceiling as is feasible to slow air migration from the interior into the attic.

  2. Be sure all bath and kitchen fans in the attic are well-sealed and venting to the exterior.

  3. Keep indoor relative humidity below 55% during cold-weather months

  4. Make sure the roof cavity / attic spaces are correctly ventilated.

  Options for handling this include:

  • Implement the cheapest and most obvious repairs and monitor during cold weather to make sure the space is staying dry and take additional corrective action only if needed
  • Have the attic space further investigated by a mold remediation or building performance contractor.

  As this is a real estate transaction, I recommend having it further evaluated by a mold remediation expert to get a more accurate understanding of the scope and urgency for repair. Observations noted during inspection include: rusty nails, staining, cannot see duct terminations (make sure they vent to the exterior), obstructed soffit vents, low insulation levels.

• A-5 Attic:

  The exhaust ductwork for the bathroom fans is uninsulated in the attic space. This can lead to seasonal condensation problems and is less energy efficient. Replace these exhaust vents with insulated exhaust ducts or insulate to R-8 or better.

• A-8 Attic:

  The lower, intake soffit vents appear to be obstructed by insulation. Cardboard baffles are typically employed in an attic area to keep insulation away from soffit vents to insure these vents communicate between the outside and the attic. I recommend addition inspection by a qualified general contractor to ensure soffit vents are open and unobstructed.

• CS3-2 Crawl Space:

  Rodent bait stations were noted in the crawl space, with dead rodents present.