Company Information

Ridgeline Property Inspections

360.224.0142
ridgelinepropertyinspections@gmail.com
http://www.ridgelinepropertyinspection.com

Inspected by: Brad Oppedal

WA State Inspector #: 2270

Published Report

Overall, this house is a 1970's simple rambler house that has had very few updates or repairs since the original build. The bones of the house seem to have performed well to date and the house has a nice simple structure and roofline. There are some critical repairs needed right away to protect the building: safety items regarding the electrical and heating systems, and the deck is getting older and will need re-decked in the near term. Please see the full report for specific details.

The Scope and Purpose of a Home Inspection

Purchasing property involves risk

The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a structure by providing a professional opinion about the overall condition of the structure. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we don’t know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend that you attend the inspection.

A home inspection is not an insurance policy

This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Home warranties can be purchased separately from insuring firms that provide this service.

A home inspection is visual and not destructive

The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing which will limit the scope of the inspection.

This is not an inspection for code compliance

This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction process structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, and this limits the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are augmented at least every three years for all of the varying disciplines. Municipalities can choose to adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their own timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done.

This is just our opinion

Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are the opinions of the home inspector. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have some differing opinions. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals.

The scope of this inspection

This inspection will include the following systems: exterior, roof, structure, drainage, foundation, attic, interior, plumbing, electrical and heating. The evaluation will be based on limited observations that are primarily visual and non-invasive. This inspection and report are not intended to be technically exhaustive.

For more about the scope of a home inspection see: ASHI National Standards at https://www.homeinspector.org/Resources/Standard-of-Practice or Washington State Home Inspection Standards at http://app.leg.wa.gov/RCW/default.aspx?cite=18.280.030

Your expectations

The overall goal of a home inspection is to help ensure that your expectations are appropriate with the house you are proposing to buy. To this end we assist with discovery by showing and documenting observations during the home inspection. This should not be mistaken for a technically exhaustive inspection designed to uncover every defect with a building. Such inspections are available but they are generally cost-prohibitive to most homebuyers.

Your participation is requested

Your presence is requested during this inspection. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by a shared visual observation of the conditions of the property.

How to Read This Report

Getting the Information to You

This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a quick look at our "Summary Page” and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos and hot links to additional information.

The best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online, which will allow you to expand your learning about your house. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined – clicking on these will provide you with a link to additional information.

This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document.

Chapters and Sections

This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.

Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there may be no narrative observation comments in that section and it may simply say “tested,” or “inspected.”

Observation Labels

All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:

  • Repair:
    Repair and maintenance items noted during inspection. Please note that some repair items can be expensive to correct such as re-finishing hardwood floors, but are considered simply repair items due to their cosmetic nature.
  • Recommended Maintenance:
    These are repair items that should be considered "routine home ownership items," such as servicing the furnace, cleaning the gutters or changing the air filters in the furnace.
  • Improve:
    Observations that are not necessarily defects, but which could be improved for safety, efficiency, or reliability reasons.
  • Monitor:
    Items that should be watched to see if correction may be needed in the future.
  • Due Diligence:
    Observation such as a buried oil tank that may require further investigation to determine the severity and / or urgency of repair.
  • Efficiency:
    Denotes observations that are needed to make the home more energy efficient as well as to bring the home up to modern insulation standards. This category typically includes windows and insulation. Other items, such as lighting and appliances, are not inspected for their energy status.
  • Note:
    Refers to aside information and /or any comments elaborating on descriptions of systems in the home or limitations to the home inspection.
  • Description:
    Detailed description of various aspects of the property noted during the inspection.

Summary Page

The Summary Page is designed as a bulleted overview of all the observations noted during inspection. This helpful overview is not a substitution for reading the entire inspection report. The entire report must be read to get a complete understanding of this inspection report as the Summary Page does not include photographs or photo captions.

Summary

Repairs

  • G-2 Grounds:

    Typical cracks were noted in driveway and patio flatwork. No immediate repair appears necessary, though water will continue to deteriorate the surface until the driveway is repaired or replaced. Regular sealing of small to moderate cracks with a quality exterior flexible sealant can minimize water penetration and prolong the life of the flatwork.

  • G-4 Grounds:

    Overall, numerous repairs are needed to the exterior stairs to ensure safe and reliable performance. I recommend additional inspection of the exterior stairs by a qualified general contractor. Examples of observations noted during inspection include: large openings, no graspable handrail (both front and yard stairs are missing).

  • G-5 Grounds:

    Localized areas of rot and loose and damaged fencing was noted. This is characteristic of older fencing. Implement repairs to the fencing as needed until updating. The urgency of this project is subjective. The timing for and scope of repair will depend on how much the occupant wants to have a fence and what they want it for.

  • ESDW-1 Exterior Siding, Doors and Windows:

    Localized paint failure was noted at the exterior see especially where exposed to the weather. Implement localized painting as needed.

  • DPB-1 Decks, Porches and Balconies:

    The deck ledger board has been installed over the siding with no flashing installed. This is not a recommended installation as this important structural board has less purchase into framing making the deck more vulnerable to collapse. This is also a more difficult installation to flash and can allow water to get trapped between the deck and the siding causing rot and a conducive pest condition. This can be difficult to correct at this point. Consult with a qualified general contractor about options for repair.

  • DPB-2 Decks, Porches and Balconies:

    The softwood decking on this deck is getting old. Roughly 5-10% of the decking is starting to decay. I would expect the need to continue to make spot repairs until the decking is systematically updated. Temporary repairs can be made by replacing the worst boards, re-setting loose nails and cleaning and re-staining the wood but this deck needs to be re-decked in the near term.

  • DPB-3 Decks, Porches and Balconies:

    The decking on this deck has been painted and is exposed to the weather. This will allow water to penetrate the wood and can hasten the deterioration process. Localized soft spots were found, but there appears to be some useful remaining service life. I recommend replacing this decking in the near term for safety and reliability. Please note that the structure of the deck is treated lumber and should be re-usable.

  • DPB-4 Decks, Porches and Balconies:

    The roof over the entry is not built correctly. It is being held up by 2 screws into a ledger type board. This risks failure of the structure. Screws should not be used because they are not for weight bearing. The post should hold up the beam. Have a contractor rebuild this cover.

  • G2-2 Garage:

    The auto-close hinges on the garage occupant-door are not closing the door completely. This safety device is recommended to ensure the door is closed to keep pollutants and even fire from spreading into the house. Repair as needed. The door is difficult to close and does not latch properly.

  • ES1-1 Electric Service:

    An inadequate working clearance was noted in front of the electric panel. This presents a potential safety hazard, especially for people working on or inspecting the electric panel. A 30-inch wide and 36-inch deep unobstructed working clearance is recommended for improved safety. Consult with a general contractor or licensed electrical contractor to further evaluate this condition and relocate the panel or improve clearances and access as needed.

  • EDFW-1 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

    The open electrical splices in the garage should be further evaluated and repaired by a licensed electrical contractor. All wiring splices should be contained inside listed junction boxes. Open or running splices are a sign of amateur or incomplete electrical work and could indicate a need for additional repairs that are latent or concealed. Have this further evaluated and repaired as recommended by a licensed electrical contractor.

  • EDFW-2 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

    The GFCI protected receptacles did not respond to testing and may be defective - they did not trip when tested. Have these receptacles repaired or replaced as needed.

  • EDFW-3 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

    Hire a licensed electrician to eliminate all open grounds. This is a common condition in older buildings (prior to 1962) where three prong receptacles have been installed on an older two wire system. This creates a safety hazard as it is false advertising; appliances that rely on an equipment ground to discharge a fault can be plugged into ungrounded circuits. This disables the important safety feature of an equipment ground. Proper repair can include:

    • Running an equipment grounding conductor or a new three-wire circuit
    • Filling the third prong of the receptacle or restoring a two-prong receptacle or
    • Installing GFCI protection for this circuit and labeling the open ground receptacles

    If GFCI protection is used, the outlets on this circuit should be labeled so it is clear they are protected.

  • EDFW-4 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

    The loose electric receptacles in the bathroom should be secured to prevent accidental damage to the wiring connections. Securing loose receptacles can often be done by just tightening some set screws between the receptacle and the junction box, though sometimes it can get more complex if the box itself is loose. Repair as needed.

  • EDFW-5 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

    The use of GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) protection is inconsistent with modern minimum standards for safety. GFCI protection is recommended for the electrical receptacles in the following locations: the two dedicated kitchen appliance circuits, all receptacles within 6 feet of a sink, bathrooms, exterior, garage, unfinished basements, laundry and all wet and damp locations. GFCI's protect against electrocution by limiting the duration of an electrical shock. These are an important modern safety feature that have proven to save lives. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and update GFCI protection for improved safety. Examples of observations noted during inspection include: kitchen (one circuit is protected but not both- or it doesnt trip), exterior (GFCI receptacles present but wired incorrectly).

  • EDFW-6 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

    The GFCI receptacle is backwards. The reset button turns the power off and the test button turns it back on. Have it further inspected and repaired by an electrician. It is also an open ground.

  • EDFW-7 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

    An inoperative receptacle was noted. Have the receptacle further evaluated and repaired by a licensed electrician.

  • EDFW-8 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

    Multiple inoperative lights were noted: This is likely due to bulbs being burned out, but could be due to an inoperative fixture, circuit or switch. Replace bulbs or repair lights as needed.

  • EDFW-9 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

    Carbon monoxide alarms were found and noted during inspection, but they have not been located adequately. The default safety standard is 1 / floor and 1 outside of all sleeping areas. Be sure to install and check these important safety devices regularly with the test button to ensure they are operational.

  • EDFW-10 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

    Modern standards recommend smoke alarms in all bedrooms, in all hallways outside bedrooms and at least one on each floor of the building. At the time of inspection smoke alarms were incomplete in the bedrooms.

  • HCFV-1 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

    This gas forced air furnace is old and is past its useful design life. The average service life of natural gas and propane forced air furnaces is 15-20 years. Funds should be reserved to replace this furnace at any time. The risk of running a gas forced air furnace past its useful design life is that the furnace could continue to operate with a cracked heat exchanger. This is a safety hazard that can allow products of combustion enter the supply air to the home. Furnace heat exchangers are not visible to inspection without expensive diagnostics, so is it difficult to know when the furnace could be posing a safety hazard to the occupants. Older furnaces like this are also less reliable and subject to the need for constant repairs. It can be more cost-effective to simply replace these furnaces on a 20 years schedule. Examples of specific observations noted and testing procedures done during inspection include: it fired and distributed heat at the time of inspection.

    I recommend having this furnace serviced and the heat exchanger inspected by a qualified heating contractor. Updating this furnace is recommended. If this furnace is kept in service, budget to update at any time and install carbon monoxide alarms in the home. Standards for CO alarms are 1 / floor and 1 outside all sleeping areas.

  • HCFV-3 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

    Holes were drilled into the tile in a bathroom. This may be being used as a heat vent. As such, it is not big enough and incorrect. Inquire with seller as to why these holes were drilled and if it is for heat, have the tile cut to accept a proper vent cover as this is inadequate.

  • P2-1 Plumbing:

    The static water pressure in the home tested above 80-psi (pounds per square inch), the maximum water pressure recommended. High water pressure can stress the supply plumbing system and make it more vulnerable to leaks. A pressure reducing valve was noted on the main water inlet suggesting that it may quire adjustment or there could be issues with thermal expansion due to water heating. It is also possible that hose bibs, where I tested the water pressure, are not protected by this device and that the rest of the house is protected. I recommend having this condition further evaluated and adjusted or repaired as recommended by a licensed plumbing contractor.

  • P2-2 Plumbing:

    The supply pipe insulation is incomplete in the crawl space. Be sure all supply lines in unheated spaces have been adequately insulated to protect from freezing conditions that could damage the pipes and to prevent heat loss.

  • P2-7 Plumbing:

    A bollard is needed to protect the water heater in the garage from physical damage. When the water heater is located where it could be damaged by vehicles, "approved" protective bollards (or other means of protection) are required for safety. I recommend that bollards be installed by a qualified plumber or other qualified party. Because current building standards do not specify what "approved" means, it is left up to jurisdictional interpretation. The commercial building codes do define what a bollard installation must look like and some jurisdictions use those guidelines. I would consider this best practice. Most jurisdictions accept bollards that are bolted to the floor--and expectations of them stopping a moving vehicle should be lowered. How they will perform is beyond the scope of this inspection. Appliances at the exterior of the home are required to meet the commercial installation standards listed below

  • I-1 Interior:

    The wall to wall carpeting is past the end of its useful life. Replacement / updating is recommended.

  • I-2 Interior:

    The laminate flooring has gaps at the joints. The edges are chipped. This cannot be repaired and replacement is recommended.

  • I-4 Interior:

    No door stops have been installed and wall finishes have been damaged. Install door stops and have the drywall finishes repaired.

  • I-5 Interior:

    Drywall has been installed around a pipe (furnace/water heater venting?) in a closet. It has not been framed correctly and the drywall can fall out of place. Have a contractor repair this.

  • I-6 Interior:

    A strong incense / "freshener" was being used inside the home during inspection. This takes away one of my senses during inspection. I recommend asking the seller to refrain from burning this for several days and then come back to re-inspect the air quality yourself as I was unable to assist with this today. These are often used to cover up pet or tobacco odors.

  • I-7 Interior:

    A hole was noted in the hollow core door. Replacement of this door is recommended for a proper finish.

  • I-8 Interior:

    A lost seal was noted in the glazing. This has resulted in fogging between the panes of glass that cannot be cleaned without glazing repair or replacement. Hire a glazing specialist to further evaluate and repair or replace all glazing with lost seals.

  • I-9 Interior:

    Screens are missing for the windows and sliding glass doors. Inquire if seller has screens.

  • K-1 Kitchen:

    The loose faucet handle for the kitchen sink should be secured to prevent leaks and/or physical damage. It hits the window sill when turned to hot. This prevented the water from getting to its capacity.

  • K-2 Kitchen:

    Water was noted to be backing up out of the air gap when the dishwasher was draining. This is not the intended function of this device and it could cause water damage on the countertop and around the sink. Hire a licensed plumber to repair ASAP to prevent water damage. This can be caused by several different factors: the air gap is sometimes installed backwards or kinks or other obstructions can block the drain line. Sometimes, when on a disposer, the knockout was never removed from the disposer drain. Repair as needed.

  • K-4 Kitchen:

    The read out for the controls on the oven are burned out or not working properly.

  • K-5 Kitchen:

    The refrigerator is dented in multiple places.

  • A-2 Attic:

    The weather strip for the attic access hatch is missing and the hatch is leaking air. This should be better air sealed to prevent heat migration into the attic.

  • A-3 Attic:

    Stains were noted on the roof decking material when viewed from the attic. This indicates the attic has experienced prior condensation problems during the cold weather months. Generally, the way to prevent seasonal condensation in an attic involves a 4-pronged approach:

    1. Air seal the ceiling as is feasible to slow air migration from the interior into the attic.

    2. Be sure all bath and kitchen fans in the attic are well-sealed and venting to the exterior.

    3. Keep indoor relative humidity below 55% during cold-weather months

    4. Make sure the roof cavity / attic spaces are correctly ventilated.

    Options for handling this include:

    • Implement the cheapest and most obvious repairs and monitor during cold weather to make sure the space is staying dry and take additional corrective action only if needed
    • Have the attic space further investigated by a mold remediation or building performance contractor.

    As this is a real estate transaction, I recommend having it further evaluated by a mold remediation expert to get a more accurate understanding of the scope and urgency for repair. Observations noted during inspection include: rusty nails, staining, cannot see duct terminations (make sure they vent to the exterior), obstructed soffit vents, low insulation levels.

  • A-5 Attic:

    The exhaust ductwork for the bathroom fans is uninsulated in the attic space. This can lead to seasonal condensation problems and is less energy efficient. Replace these exhaust vents with insulated exhaust ducts or insulate to R-8 or better.

  • A-8 Attic:

    The lower, intake soffit vents appear to be obstructed by insulation. Cardboard baffles are typically employed in an attic area to keep insulation away from soffit vents to insure these vents communicate between the outside and the attic. I recommend addition inspection by a qualified general contractor to ensure soffit vents are open and unobstructed.

  • CS3-2 Crawl Space:

    Rodent bait stations were noted in the crawl space, with dead rodents present.

Recommended Maintenance Items

  • RCG-2 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:

    The gutters are clogged with organic debris and require cleaning to ensure proper control of roof runoff. Clean the gutters and ensure they are unobstructed, leak free and properly sloped to drain. This is routine house maintenance; I would expect the need to clean gutters and downspouts regularly.

  • P2-8 Plumbing:

    The water heater temperature seemed to be set too low at the time of inspection - just 107 degrees F. The range of 120-125 degrees F is the generally recommended temperature. This is nearly impossible to measure precisely during a home inspection as water temperature can vary between fixtures. I try and test the water temperature in several places and take the median reading. Adjust water heater temperature as needed. For best practice, set water temperature at the water heater to 130 degrees F and use a tempering valve to set water temp back to a safe 120 for domestic use. This high tank temperature will reduce risks of Legionella developing in the tank and the tempering valve will ensure a safe water temperature.

  • LF-2 Laundry Facilities:

    The dryer exhaust ductwork is dirty and needs to be cleaned for improved safety. This is important regular maintenance to eliminate a potential fire hazard.

Improves

  • G-3 Grounds:

    The property has a large retaining wall with no fencing for fall protection. This could be a safety hazard, especially for children. Install additional guardrail protection as desired.

  • HCFV-4 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

    This building has no provisions for automatic mechanical ventilation - I did not find a 24 hour timer for a fan anywhere - typical for a building of this age. Installing a bath or laundry fan on a 24 hour timer is recommended to ensure mechanical air changes. This can help keep relative humidity in check. As a general rule, keep relative humidity below 55% in cold weather to reduce chances for condensation. You can monitor relative humidity with inexpensive temperature and relative humidity gauges. For a nice fan system I recommend looking at Panasonic Whisper Green fans - these do not rely on a timer and run continuously to facilitate air changes. Panasonic Fans Website

  • HCFV-5 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

    This gas log fireplace does not have a fan system installed. This is pretty normal, but if you wish to install a fan this will need to be added.

  • P2-5 Plumbing:

    An expansion tank is recommended for the water heater; these are required if the house has a closed plumbing system. Expansion tanks help reduce pressure on the plumbing system by creating a buffer or a place for water to expand into as water swells during thermal expansion. Installation of expansion or pressure tanks is modern installation practice and will be required if a pressure reducing valve has been installed on a public water supply. Consult with a qualified plumber to install.

  • LF-1 Laundry Facilities:

    A moisture alarm with water shut-off features is recommended under the washing machine to protect against accidental leaks in the supply hoses. Pans can be effective when there is a drain, but even these will not protect against a burst supply connector. A moisture alarm with automatic shut-off will. Watts is a brand I have seen installed: Link.

  • A-7 Attic:

    The round metal covers used in the soffit vents are not the recommended screens; these obstruct almost all of the air flow. I recommend re-detailing the soffit vents with 1/4 hardware cloth type screen.

Monitors

  • G-1 Grounds:

    Inadequate clearance between the siding and the hardscape was noted. This is conducive to wood destroying organisms as it can trap water against the siding. Where possible, an air gap should be provided to allow the wood to keep dry. Generally, a 2 inch clearance is recommended between siding and hardscape. Please note that this is a fairly common installation, and may not be cost effective to correct at this point. It is difficult to predict if or when or if this condition will cause concealed damage to the wood behind.

  • P2-6 Plumbing:

    This water heater is likely close to the end of its useful service life. The average life of these water heaters is statistically 8-12 years though in practice, they can vary widely between 8-20 years depending on water quality and maintenance schedule such as frequency of flushing the tank and replacing sacrificial anodes. Budget to replace this water heater at any time. Water was hot at the time of inspection.

Due Diligences

  • HCFV-2 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

    I did not get a reliable or accurate test of the heated floors today - observations were incomplete. Thermostats were turn up as soon as we came into the house, but some areas were still not showing a temperature change by the end of the inspection. It was unclear why some of the zones did not seem to come on: this could be related to how we manipulated the thermostats today or perhaps they needed more time. Some of these systems can be slow to respond to requests from the thermostat. I recommend a servicing of the boiler and distribution system just to verify the system is performing as intended.

  • P2-3 Plumbing:

    A video camera sewer scope is recommended. An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. A sewer scope is always recommended to further evaluate the sewer line and the below ground connections between the house and the municipal sewer line. Sewer scopes are done using video cameras and can reveal the materials, condition and reliability of the sewer line. If that hasn't been done recently, I recommend having a sewer scope performed.

  • P2-4 Plumbing:

    No cleanout was noted for the sewer line. It is possible there is an accessible cleanout for the sewer line that is concealed behind finishes or belongings. Sewer line cleanouts are necessary for clearing drain obstructions and for inspecting the building sewer with a sewer camera. While code allows cleanouts to be in crawl spaces, a preferred method is to extend them to an area that is more readily accessible. The UPC requires that underfloor cleanouts be no farther than 20 ft. from the access opening, with a 30 in. wide, 18 in. high path from the access to the cleanout. When those conditions cannot be met, the cleanout must be extended to the exterior. Inquire with the seller for additional information and install an adequate accessible cleanout as recommended by a qualified plumbing contractor. Please note that many older buildings do not have sewer line cleanouts; these are often added when sewer line work becomes necessary.

  • I-3 Interior:

    The ceiling in some rooms of this house contains popcorn texture. This product may contain asbestos as many of these products contained asbestos prior to 1978. After 1978, remaining stocks of material containing asbestos were sold and as the product was slowly phased out. Asbestos testing is beyond the scope of this inspection. The health risks posed by this substance are minimal unless the texture becomes friable or air borne. If you wish to remove the popcorn texture or have remodel plans that could involve cutting or removing this sheetrock, asbestos testing is recommended. Consult with an environmental lab for more information on asbestos testing. One option is always to sheetrock over this texture if you wish to have a different ceiling finish.

  • A-6 Attic:

    The bathroom fans may be venting into the crawl space. This could contribute to condensation and mold problems in the attic and overall unreliable performance. Repair all fans to be ducting to the exterior of the home through the roof using proper roof jack vents.

Efficiencies

  • A-4 Attic:

    The attic insulation could be improved to modern standards, which recommend R-49 on the floor and R-21 on walls. R-value is the measure of resistance to heat loss; the higher the R-value the better the insulation. During insulation repairs it is best practices to implement any air seal-up repairs to seal air leakage. Also, be sure you have completed any wiring or other projects that are needed in the attic. Then, hire an insulation contractor to improve thermal barriers.

  • CS3-3 Crawl Space:

    The under-floor insulation in the crawl space is sagging and not touching the sub-floor in places, as such, it is not performing as intended. Use inset string to support the sub-floor insulation up against the sub-floor. The insulation must be in substantial contact with the surface it is insulating to perform as intended.

Notes

  • G2-1 Garage:

    Extensive storage in the garage inhibited the view of most of the garage and limited visual inspection of this space.

  • G2-3 Garage:

    Personal belongings and storage were obstructing view of the concrete garage floor.

  • RCG-1 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:

    Skylights appear to be properly flashed and not leaking.

  • ES1-2 Electric Service:

    A previous inspection noted double lugging at the panel. This appears to have been corrected.


  • A-1 Attic:

    There is no ramp or safe way to access the attic space. Crawling through insulation and on top of framing risks damaging thermal barriers and ceiling finishes and is not a safe way to access an attic. This limited inspection of this space.

  • CS3-1 Crawl Space:

    The photos provided here show representative images of this crawl space at the time of inspection.

The Full Report

General Comments

Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations

Style of Home: Ranch

Type of Building : Single Family (1 1/2 story)

Approximate Square Footage: 1800

The approximate square footage listed here is listed as a courtesy and is based off of public records and disclosure. An evaluation of square footage of the buildings and property lines is beyond the scope of this inspection.

Approximate Year of Original Construction: 1979

Unless the wiring in the building has been fully updated, this building likely has wiring that predates the late 1980's. Branch circuit wiring installed in buildings built prior to the late 1980s is typically rated for a maximum temperature of only 60 degrees Celsius. This includes non-metallic sheathed (Romex) wiring, and both BX and AC metal-clad flexible wiring. Knob and tube wiring, typically installed in homes built prior to 1950, may be rated for even lower maximum temperatures. Newer electric fixtures including lighting and fans typically require wiring rated for 90 degrees Celsius. Connecting newer fixtures to older, 60-degree-rated wiring is a potential fire hazard. Repairs for such conditions may involve replacing the last few feet of wiring to newer fixtures with new 90-degree-rated wire, and installing a junction box to join the old and new wiring. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if any such incompatible components are installed. Based on the age of this building, be aware that such components may be present.

In 1978, federal laws were passed to prohibit use of lead and asbestos in building materials. Manufacturers of building materials were allowed to sell existing stocks of materials that were manufactured with lead and asbestos, so even buildings constructed as late as the mid-1980's could possibly contain lead or asbestos. Identification and testing for lead and asbestos and other environmental testing is beyond the scope of this home inspection. If you wish to seek additional information, I recommend contacting an environmental lab or industrial hygienist.

Attending the Inspection: Buyer's Agent

Occupancy: Occupied

Animals Present: Yes

Weather during the inspection: Light Rain

Approximate temperature during the inspection: Below 65[F]

Ground/Soil surface conditions: Wet

For the Purposes of This Report, the Front Door Faces: West

This home was occupied at the time of the inspection. Inspection of occupied homes presents some challenges as occupant belongings can obstruct visual inspection of and access to parts of the building. We do our best during inspection to work around belongings to discover as much as possible about the house without moving or damaging personal property, however, the presence of personal items does limit the inspection.

Grounds

Drainage and Site

Clearance to Grade: Siding Too Close to Hardscape - Not Ideal

Downspout Discharge: Below grade

Site Description: Flat

(G-1) Monitor:

Inadequate clearance between the siding and the hardscape was noted. This is conducive to wood destroying organisms as it can trap water against the siding. Where possible, an air gap should be provided to allow the wood to keep dry. Generally, a 2 inch clearance is recommended between siding and hardscape. Please note that this is a fairly common installation, and may not be cost effective to correct at this point. It is difficult to predict if or when or if this condition will cause concealed damage to the wood behind.

Driveways/Walkways/Flatwork

Driveway: Concrete

Walkways: Concrete

Patios: Concrete

(G-2) Repair:

Typical cracks were noted in driveway and patio flatwork. No immediate repair appears necessary, though water will continue to deteriorate the surface until the driveway is repaired or replaced. Regular sealing of small to moderate cracks with a quality exterior flexible sealant can minimize water penetration and prolong the life of the flatwork.

Grounds, Trees and Vegetation

Trees/Vegetation too near building: No

Retaining Walls

Retaining Wall Material: Block

(G-3) Improve:

The property has a large retaining wall with no fencing for fall protection. This could be a safety hazard, especially for children. Install additional guardrail protection as desired.

Exterior Stairs

Exterior Stairs: Standard, Numerous Repairs Needed

(G-4) Repair:

Overall, numerous repairs are needed to the exterior stairs to ensure safe and reliable performance. I recommend additional inspection of the exterior stairs by a qualified general contractor. Examples of observations noted during inspection include: large openings, no graspable handrail (both front and yard stairs are missing).

Fences

Exterior Fencing: Present, Sagging Gates and Fencing, Localized Rot Noted

(G-5) Repair:

Localized areas of rot and loose and damaged fencing was noted. This is characteristic of older fencing. Implement repairs to the fencing as needed until updating. The urgency of this project is subjective. The timing for and scope of repair will depend on how much the occupant wants to have a fence and what they want it for.

Exterior Siding, Doors and Windows

Siding and Trim

Trim Material: Wood

Siding Material: Tongue and groove

(ESDW-1) Repair:

Localized paint failure was noted at the exterior see especially where exposed to the weather. Implement localized painting as needed.

Eaves

Open rafters

Exterior Doors

Solid core, Sliding glass

Exterior Window Frames

Vinyl

Decks, Porches and Balconies

Decks, Porches and Balconies

Present

To see a prescriptive guide for residential wood deck construction click this link:

Structure: Ground contact treated lumber

Ledger Board: Defects Noted (Ledger Board, Over Siding)

Guardrail: Standard, None needed

Decking Material: Softwood (Close to End of Life, 5-10% Replacement Needed, Painted - Not Recommended)

(DPB-1) Repair:

The deck ledger board has been installed over the siding with no flashing installed. This is not a recommended installation as this important structural board has less purchase into framing making the deck more vulnerable to collapse. This is also a more difficult installation to flash and can allow water to get trapped between the deck and the siding causing rot and a conducive pest condition. This can be difficult to correct at this point. Consult with a qualified general contractor about options for repair.

(DPB-2) Repair:

The softwood decking on this deck is getting old. Roughly 5-10% of the decking is starting to decay. I would expect the need to continue to make spot repairs until the decking is systematically updated. Temporary repairs can be made by replacing the worst boards, re-setting loose nails and cleaning and re-staining the wood but this deck needs to be re-decked in the near term.

(DPB-3) Repair:

The decking on this deck has been painted and is exposed to the weather. This will allow water to penetrate the wood and can hasten the deterioration process. Localized soft spots were found, but there appears to be some useful remaining service life. I recommend replacing this decking in the near term for safety and reliability. Please note that the structure of the deck is treated lumber and should be re-usable.

(DPB-4) Repair:

The roof over the entry is not built correctly. It is being held up by 2 screws into a ledger type board. This risks failure of the structure. Screws should not be used because they are not for weight bearing. The post should hold up the beam. Have a contractor rebuild this cover.

Garage

Garage General

Garage Type: Attached

(G2-1) Note:

Extensive storage in the garage inhibited the view of most of the garage and limited visual inspection of this space.

Garage Doors and Automatic Openers

Overhead Garage Door Type: Wood

Automatic Garage Opener: Present

Garage Occupant Door: Not Fire Rated, Hinges Disabled

(G2-2) Repair:

The auto-close hinges on the garage occupant-door are not closing the door completely. This safety device is recommended to ensure the door is closed to keep pollutants and even fire from spreading into the house. Repair as needed. The door is difficult to close and does not latch properly.

Garage Floor

Garage Slab: Not Visible - Storage Obstructed View

(G2-3) Note:

Personal belongings and storage were obstructing view of the concrete garage floor.

Roof, Chimney and Gutters

Roof Materials

Method of Roof Inspection: Walked on roof

Roof Style: Gable

Flashings: Present and Visually Standard

Roof flashings are used to keep a roofing system waterproof where the roofing material starts, stops, changes direction or is penetrated. During inspection, we look for standard flashing techniques that could be considered normal or standard in our region. Damaged, incomplete or non-standard flashings can be a sign of an older or less reliable roofing system and may require repair. Any non-standard flashings noted during inspection will be reported on below if found.

Roof Covering Materials: Architectural grade composition shingle

Approximate Age of Roof Covering: 10-12 Years

Overlay Roof: No

Skylights

Insulated curb style, Light tube

(RCG-1) Note:

Skylights appear to be properly flashed and not leaking.

Gutters and Downspouts

Gutter and Downspout Materials: Seamless Aluminum

(RCG-2) Recommended Maintenance:

The gutters are clogged with organic debris and require cleaning to ensure proper control of roof runoff. Clean the gutters and ensure they are unobstructed, leak free and properly sloped to drain. This is routine house maintenance; I would expect the need to clean gutters and downspouts regularly.

Electric Service

Electric Service

Service Entrance: Below Ground

Meter Base Amperage: 200

Electric Service Equipment

Main Panel Amperage: 200 amps

Main Electric Panel Location: Garage

Panel Manufacturer: Siemens

(ES1-1) Repair:

An inadequate working clearance was noted in front of the electric panel. This presents a potential safety hazard, especially for people working on or inspecting the electric panel. A 30-inch wide and 36-inch deep unobstructed working clearance is recommended for improved safety. Consult with a general contractor or licensed electrical contractor to further evaluate this condition and relocate the panel or improve clearances and access as needed.

(ES1-2) Note:

A previous inspection noted double lugging at the panel. This appears to have been corrected.


Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring

Branch Wiring

Wire Material: Copper

Wiring Method: Non-metallic sheathed cable

(EDFW-1) Repair:

The open electrical splices in the garage should be further evaluated and repaired by a licensed electrical contractor. All wiring splices should be contained inside listed junction boxes. Open or running splices are a sign of amateur or incomplete electrical work and could indicate a need for additional repairs that are latent or concealed. Have this further evaluated and repaired as recommended by a licensed electrical contractor.

Receptacles and Fixtures

Inspection Method: Representative Testing

A representative number of receptacles and switches were tested during inspection. Any defects found during inspection are noted in this report. Only visible and accessible receptacles and switches were tested during inspection and personal items and furnishings are not moved to access any receptacles or fixtures.

Electric Receptacles: Three wire receptacles

(EDFW-2) Repair:

The GFCI protected receptacles did not respond to testing and may be defective - they did not trip when tested. Have these receptacles repaired or replaced as needed.

(EDFW-3) Repair:

Hire a licensed electrician to eliminate all open grounds. This is a common condition in older buildings (prior to 1962) where three prong receptacles have been installed on an older two wire system. This creates a safety hazard as it is false advertising; appliances that rely on an equipment ground to discharge a fault can be plugged into ungrounded circuits. This disables the important safety feature of an equipment ground. Proper repair can include:

  • Running an equipment grounding conductor or a new three-wire circuit
  • Filling the third prong of the receptacle or restoring a two-prong receptacle or
  • Installing GFCI protection for this circuit and labeling the open ground receptacles

If GFCI protection is used, the outlets on this circuit should be labeled so it is clear they are protected.

(EDFW-4) Repair:

The loose electric receptacles in the bathroom should be secured to prevent accidental damage to the wiring connections. Securing loose receptacles can often be done by just tightening some set screws between the receptacle and the junction box, though sometimes it can get more complex if the box itself is loose. Repair as needed.

(EDFW-5) Repair:

The use of GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) protection is inconsistent with modern minimum standards for safety. GFCI protection is recommended for the electrical receptacles in the following locations: the two dedicated kitchen appliance circuits, all receptacles within 6 feet of a sink, bathrooms, exterior, garage, unfinished basements, laundry and all wet and damp locations. GFCI's protect against electrocution by limiting the duration of an electrical shock. These are an important modern safety feature that have proven to save lives. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and update GFCI protection for improved safety. Examples of observations noted during inspection include: kitchen (one circuit is protected but not both- or it doesnt trip), exterior (GFCI receptacles present but wired incorrectly).

(EDFW-6) Repair:

The GFCI receptacle is backwards. The reset button turns the power off and the test button turns it back on. Have it further inspected and repaired by an electrician. It is also an open ground.

(EDFW-7) Repair:

An inoperative receptacle was noted. Have the receptacle further evaluated and repaired by a licensed electrician.

(EDFW-8) Repair:

Multiple inoperative lights were noted: This is likely due to bulbs being burned out, but could be due to an inoperative fixture, circuit or switch. Replace bulbs or repair lights as needed.

Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm Systems

CO Alarms: Not Enough

The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. In addition, Washington State law (WAC 51-51-0315) now requires UL 2034 approved carbon monoxide alarms in ALL homes and condominiums being sold in Washington State. The location should be: at least one alarm outside of all sleeping areas and one on each floor of the house. Best practices are to have these alarms hardwired with a battery back-up - though requirements are for the installation to meet manufacturer's specifications. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death. Alarms have a useful service life of roughly 6 years, so changing them more frequently than smoke alarms is recommended.

Smoke Alarms: None In Bedrooms

During the home inspection, I try and test a representative sample of the smoke alarms by using the test button on the alarms. This is NOT an accurate test of the sensor just a test to see if the unit is powered. For reliability, fire marshals recommended updating smoke alarms every 10 years and changing batteries bi-annually. The latest data indicate that we should be using photoelectric technology in our smoke alarms for improved fire detection and to reduce problems with false alarms which can lead to disabling of this important safety system. Unfortunately, the alarms have to be removed to determine if they are photo-electric or ionization types. It is surprisingly complex to accurately test a smoke alarm system and determine the reliability, age, and type of sensor technology used, especially as many homes can have half a dozen or more alarms throughout the house. A complete evaluation of smoke alarms is beyond the scope of this inspection. For optimal fire safety, I recommend taking control of these important safety devices and learning about how to service and maintain your smoke alarm system to keep the building occupants safe. For more information, please read this link. For more information, please read this link.

(EDFW-9) Repair:

Carbon monoxide alarms were found and noted during inspection, but they have not been located adequately. The default safety standard is 1 / floor and 1 outside of all sleeping areas. Be sure to install and check these important safety devices regularly with the test button to ensure they are operational.

(EDFW-10) Repair:

Modern standards recommend smoke alarms in all bedrooms, in all hallways outside bedrooms and at least one on each floor of the building. At the time of inspection smoke alarms were incomplete in the bedrooms.

Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation

Heating System

Energy Source: Natural gas

Heating Method: Gas forced air furnace

This house has a gas forced air furnace. A critical component to all combustion heating equipment is the heat exchanger. This is the welded metal assembly inside the furnace that contains the products of combustion so that moisture, carbon monoxide and other products of combustion do not mix with interior air and get safely vented to the exterior. Heat exchangers on modern furnaces have an average life expectancy of 15-20 years. Unfortunately, heat exchangers are concealed inside the heating equipment; they are not visible and specifically excluded from a home inspection. Cracks in heat exchangers may be concealed and can pose a potential safety hazard.

Manufacturer: Solitaire

Data Plate: Shown Here

This shows the data plate from the furnace. 📸

Capacity: 95,000 btu's

Age: 1994

Last Service Record: None

(HCFV-1) Repair:

This gas forced air furnace is old and is past its useful design life. The average service life of natural gas and propane forced air furnaces is 15-20 years. Funds should be reserved to replace this furnace at any time. The risk of running a gas forced air furnace past its useful design life is that the furnace could continue to operate with a cracked heat exchanger. This is a safety hazard that can allow products of combustion enter the supply air to the home. Furnace heat exchangers are not visible to inspection without expensive diagnostics, so is it difficult to know when the furnace could be posing a safety hazard to the occupants. Older furnaces like this are also less reliable and subject to the need for constant repairs. It can be more cost-effective to simply replace these furnaces on a 20 years schedule. Examples of specific observations noted and testing procedures done during inspection include: it fired and distributed heat at the time of inspection.

I recommend having this furnace serviced and the heat exchanger inspected by a qualified heating contractor. Updating this furnace is recommended. If this furnace is kept in service, budget to update at any time and install carbon monoxide alarms in the home. Standards for CO alarms are 1 / floor and 1 outside all sleeping areas.

Air Filters

Filtration Systems: Disposable

The heating and cooling system has disposable air filters installed. These should be changed quarterly or more to ensure proper air flow at the furnace. Be sure to install the filters with the arrows pointing in the same direction as the air flow in the furnace.

Heating and Cooling Distribution Systems

Heat Source in Each Room: Present

Distribution Method: Forced Air / Ducts, Floor Convection

(HCFV-3) Repair:

Holes were drilled into the tile in a bathroom. This may be being used as a heat vent. As such, it is not big enough and incorrect. Inquire with seller as to why these holes were drilled and if it is for heat, have the tile cut to accept a proper vent cover as this is inadequate.

(HCFV-2) Due Diligence:

I did not get a reliable or accurate test of the heated floors today - observations were incomplete. Thermostats were turn up as soon as we came into the house, but some areas were still not showing a temperature change by the end of the inspection. It was unclear why some of the zones did not seem to come on: this could be related to how we manipulated the thermostats today or perhaps they needed more time. Some of these systems can be slow to respond to requests from the thermostat. I recommend a servicing of the boiler and distribution system just to verify the system is performing as intended.

Mechanical Ventilation Systems

Bath Fan Ducting: Ductwork not visible

Determining proper ventilation to the exterior from kitchen, bath and laundry fans can be tricky as exhaust fan ductwork is often concealed behind finishes and fan terminations can be all over the house from the roof to the foundation, presenting difficulties for systematically checking every fan termination. During inspection, every effort is made to verify proper terminations of fan vents to the exterior, but it is possible to miss something here that is latent or concealed.

Kitchen Fan Ducting: Ducted to exterior

Whole House Fans, Ventilation and HRVs: No Mechanical Ventilation Found - Old House

(HCFV-4) Improve:

This building has no provisions for automatic mechanical ventilation - I did not find a 24 hour timer for a fan anywhere - typical for a building of this age. Installing a bath or laundry fan on a 24 hour timer is recommended to ensure mechanical air changes. This can help keep relative humidity in check. As a general rule, keep relative humidity below 55% in cold weather to reduce chances for condensation. You can monitor relative humidity with inexpensive temperature and relative humidity gauges. For a nice fan system I recommend looking at Panasonic Whisper Green fans - these do not rely on a timer and run continuously to facilitate air changes. Panasonic Fans Website

Gas Fireplaces

Fireplace Types: Direct vent gas log fireplace

Fan Present: No

System Responded to Testing: Yes

This shows the fireplace working during inspection.

(HCFV-5) Improve:

This gas log fireplace does not have a fan system installed. This is pretty normal, but if you wish to install a fan this will need to be added.

Plumbing

Water Service Supply

Pipe Material: Copper

Water Supply: Public water

Water Pressure: 100 PSI

Pressure Reducing Valve: Present

This house has a pressure reducing valve to control the water pressure.

Main Water Shut-off Location: Water Shut Off Location Noted, Above the water heater

This shows the location of the main water shut off located above the water heater.

(P2-1) Repair:

The static water pressure in the home tested above 80-psi (pounds per square inch), the maximum water pressure recommended. High water pressure can stress the supply plumbing system and make it more vulnerable to leaks. A pressure reducing valve was noted on the main water inlet suggesting that it may quire adjustment or there could be issues with thermal expansion due to water heating. It is also possible that hose bibs, where I tested the water pressure, are not protected by this device and that the rest of the house is protected. I recommend having this condition further evaluated and adjusted or repaired as recommended by a licensed plumbing contractor.

Distribution Pipe

Pipe Insulation: Present, Missing in Crawl Space

The visible portions of the supply piping appear to be insulated. However, prior to freezing weather it is always a good idea to check pipes and hose bibs for adequate insulation and freeze protection to protect pipes from cold weather and freezing conditions. Hose bibs can often be winterized prior to cold weather.

Supply Pipe Materials: Copper

Copper water supply pipes were installed. Copper pipes installed prior to the late 1980's may be joined with solder that contains lead, which is a known health hazard especially for children. Laws were passed in 1985 prohibiting the use of lead in solder, but prior to that solder normally contained approximately 50% lead. Note that testing for toxic materials such as lead, is beyond the scope of this inspection. Consider having a qualified lab test for lead, and if necessary take steps to reduce or remove lead from the water supply. Various solutions include:

  • Flush water taps or faucets. Do not drink water that has been sitting in the plumbing lines for more than 6 hours
  • Install appropriate filters at points of use
  • Use only cold water for cooking and drinking, as hot water dissolves lead more quickly than cold water
  • Treat well water to make it less corrosive
  • Have a qualified plumber replace supply pipes and/or plumbing components as necessary

Functional Flow: Average

(P2-2) Repair:

The supply pipe insulation is incomplete in the crawl space. Be sure all supply lines in unheated spaces have been adequately insulated to protect from freezing conditions that could damage the pipes and to prevent heat loss.

Waste Pipe and Discharge

Discharge Type: Public Sewer - Buyer

Waste and Vent Pipe Materials: ABS plastic

Location of Sewer Cleanout: Not Found

(P2-3) Due Diligence:

A video camera sewer scope is recommended. An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. A sewer scope is always recommended to further evaluate the sewer line and the below ground connections between the house and the municipal sewer line. Sewer scopes are done using video cameras and can reveal the materials, condition and reliability of the sewer line. If that hasn't been done recently, I recommend having a sewer scope performed.

(P2-4) Due Diligence:

No cleanout was noted for the sewer line. It is possible there is an accessible cleanout for the sewer line that is concealed behind finishes or belongings. Sewer line cleanouts are necessary for clearing drain obstructions and for inspecting the building sewer with a sewer camera. While code allows cleanouts to be in crawl spaces, a preferred method is to extend them to an area that is more readily accessible. The UPC requires that underfloor cleanouts be no farther than 20 ft. from the access opening, with a 30 in. wide, 18 in. high path from the access to the cleanout. When those conditions cannot be met, the cleanout must be extended to the exterior. Inquire with the seller for additional information and install an adequate accessible cleanout as recommended by a qualified plumbing contractor. Please note that many older buildings do not have sewer line cleanouts; these are often added when sewer line work becomes necessary.

Water Heater

Manufacturer: GE

Data Plate: Shown Here

This shows the data plate for this water heater.

System Type: Tank

Size: 40 gal

Age: 2010

Energy Source: Gas

Straps : Present

Drain Pan: Not Needed

Expansion Tank: None Noted - Recommended

Temperature Pressure Relief Value: Present - Not Tested

A temperature and pressure relief valve (TPRV) is required on all water heaters to discharge any excessive pressure within the tank. A discharge pipe should be attached to the valve and directed to a safe location away from body contact. Newer installations must be directed to the building exterior or to an approved indoor drain receptor. Most manufacturers suggest that homeowners test these valves at least once a year by lifting the lever to ensure the valve discharges properly and also recommend inspection of these safety devices every three years. The picture here shows a typical TPRV. They may also be found on the side of the heater on some models. I do not test these valves due to the possibility that they may leak after testing. A leaking or inoperative TPRV should be replaced immediately by a licensed plumber.

Due to inconsistencies between both UPC and IPC Plumbing codes, and water heater manufacturer's instructions, and TPRV manufacturer instructions, it is not actually possible to install the drain from the Water Heater TPRV "properly." There are conflicts with distance of termination to the floor/ground, types of pipes approved, and diameters of pipes approved. Additional confusion is added when jurisdictional inspectors approve installations/materials specifically not allowed by both codes and manufacturers. My recommendations will vary depending on the installation and will be included in the applicable narratives below.

Most codes defer to manufacturer instructions and I favor those recommendations. The yellow tag on the valve states clearly the termination should be 6" above the floor which is more consistent with the UPC code requirements.

(P2-7) Repair:

A bollard is needed to protect the water heater in the garage from physical damage. When the water heater is located where it could be damaged by vehicles, "approved" protective bollards (or other means of protection) are required for safety. I recommend that bollards be installed by a qualified plumber or other qualified party. Because current building standards do not specify what "approved" means, it is left up to jurisdictional interpretation. The commercial building codes do define what a bollard installation must look like and some jurisdictions use those guidelines. I would consider this best practice. Most jurisdictions accept bollards that are bolted to the floor--and expectations of them stopping a moving vehicle should be lowered. How they will perform is beyond the scope of this inspection. Appliances at the exterior of the home are required to meet the commercial installation standards listed below

(P2-5) Improve:

An expansion tank is recommended for the water heater; these are required if the house has a closed plumbing system. Expansion tanks help reduce pressure on the plumbing system by creating a buffer or a place for water to expand into as water swells during thermal expansion. Installation of expansion or pressure tanks is modern installation practice and will be required if a pressure reducing valve has been installed on a public water supply. Consult with a qualified plumber to install.

(P2-6) Monitor:

This water heater is likely close to the end of its useful service life. The average life of these water heaters is statistically 8-12 years though in practice, they can vary widely between 8-20 years depending on water quality and maintenance schedule such as frequency of flushing the tank and replacing sacrificial anodes. Budget to replace this water heater at any time. Water was hot at the time of inspection.

Water Temperature

Water Temperature Measured During Inspection: 100 Degrees F, 107 Degrees F

(P2-8) Recommended Maintenance:

The water heater temperature seemed to be set too low at the time of inspection - just 107 degrees F. The range of 120-125 degrees F is the generally recommended temperature. This is nearly impossible to measure precisely during a home inspection as water temperature can vary between fixtures. I try and test the water temperature in several places and take the median reading. Adjust water heater temperature as needed. For best practice, set water temperature at the water heater to 130 degrees F and use a tempering valve to set water temp back to a safe 120 for domestic use. This high tank temperature will reduce risks of Legionella developing in the tank and the tempering valve will ensure a safe water temperature.

Interior

Floors and Floor Materials

Floor Materials: Carpet, Plastic laminate, Tile

Floor Settlement: None noted

(I-1) Repair:

The wall to wall carpeting is past the end of its useful life. Replacement / updating is recommended.

(I-2) Repair:

The laminate flooring has gaps at the joints. The edges are chipped. This cannot be repaired and replacement is recommended.

Walls, Ceilings, Trim, Hallways and Closets

Wall and Ceiling Materials: Drywall

(I-4) Repair:

No door stops have been installed and wall finishes have been damaged. Install door stops and have the drywall finishes repaired.

(I-5) Repair:

Drywall has been installed around a pipe (furnace/water heater venting?) in a closet. It has not been framed correctly and the drywall can fall out of place. Have a contractor repair this.

(I-6) Repair:

A strong incense / "freshener" was being used inside the home during inspection. This takes away one of my senses during inspection. I recommend asking the seller to refrain from burning this for several days and then come back to re-inspect the air quality yourself as I was unable to assist with this today. These are often used to cover up pet or tobacco odors.

(I-3) Due Diligence:

The ceiling in some rooms of this house contains popcorn texture. This product may contain asbestos as many of these products contained asbestos prior to 1978. After 1978, remaining stocks of material containing asbestos were sold and as the product was slowly phased out. Asbestos testing is beyond the scope of this inspection. The health risks posed by this substance are minimal unless the texture becomes friable or air borne. If you wish to remove the popcorn texture or have remodel plans that could involve cutting or removing this sheetrock, asbestos testing is recommended. Consult with an environmental lab for more information on asbestos testing. One option is always to sheetrock over this texture if you wish to have a different ceiling finish.

Stairs and Railings

Standard

Interior Doors

Interior Doors: Hollow Core, Hole in Hollow Door (1)

(I-7) Repair:

A hole was noted in the hollow core door. Replacement of this door is recommended for a proper finish.

Windows

Window Glazing: Double pane

Interior Window Frame: Vinyl

Window Styles: Sliding

(I-8) Repair:

A lost seal was noted in the glazing. This has resulted in fogging between the panes of glass that cannot be cleaned without glazing repair or replacement. Hire a glazing specialist to further evaluate and repair or replace all glazing with lost seals.

(I-9) Repair:

Screens are missing for the windows and sliding glass doors. Inquire if seller has screens.

Kitchen

Sinks and Faucets

Tested

(K-1) Repair:

The loose faucet handle for the kitchen sink should be secured to prevent leaks and/or physical damage. It hits the window sill when turned to hot. This prevented the water from getting to its capacity.

Cabinets and Countertops

Countertop Material: Plastic laminate

Cabinet Material: Wood

Disposers

Disposer: Operated

Dishwasher

Dishwasher: Operated

Dishwasher Air Gap: Present, Leaking

(K-2) Repair:

Water was noted to be backing up out of the air gap when the dishwasher was draining. This is not the intended function of this device and it could cause water damage on the countertop and around the sink. Hire a licensed plumber to repair ASAP to prevent water damage. This can be caused by several different factors: the air gap is sometimes installed backwards or kinks or other obstructions can block the drain line. Sometimes, when on a disposer, the knockout was never removed from the disposer drain. Repair as needed.

Ventilation Method

Fan Ducted to Exterior

Ranges, Ovens and Cooktops

Range/ Oven /Cook-tops: Gas

(K-4) Repair:

The read out for the controls on the oven are burned out or not working properly.

Thermal images show the cooktop was tested and working during inspection.

Refrigerators

Refrigerator: Operating

(K-5) Repair:

The refrigerator is dented in multiple places.

Laundry Facilities

Washer

Tested

(LF-1) Improve:

A moisture alarm with water shut-off features is recommended under the washing machine to protect against accidental leaks in the supply hoses. Pans can be effective when there is a drain, but even these will not protect against a burst supply connector. A moisture alarm with automatic shut-off will. Watts is a brand I have seen installed: Link.

Dryer

Tested

Proper dryer exhaust venting is critical for safe and reliable performance from the dryer. Here are some basic rules of thumb for dryer exhaust duct installation: Unless a vent-free appliance is being used, the dryer exhaust vent must terminate outdoors. It should be no more than 25 feet long and for every 90 degree turn subtract 5 feet and for every 45 degree bend subtract 2.5 feet. Use only smooth-wall metal vent pipe @ 4 inch pipe diameter. Do not use plastic pipe and plastic flex pipe. If a flexible connector is needed behind the dryer use a short amount of corrugated metal pipe. If the exhaust duct is getting pinched behind dryer, consider use of a dryer vent box, pictured here. Flex and corrugated pipes should never be used in concealed spaces such as through walls or in attic or crawl spaces. Insulate dryer exhaust duct where it passes through unconditioned spaces to prevent condensation that could hasten lint build-up inside the pipe. Do not use screws to connect pipe as these can trap lint. Secure duct with foil tape as needed. Be sure duct is sleeved properly so that it will not trap lint and clean the vent regularly, especially if it is a long exhaust run.

Power Source: Gas

Exhaust Duct: Ducted to Exterior, Cleaning Needed

(LF-2) Recommended Maintenance:

The dryer exhaust ductwork is dirty and needs to be cleaned for improved safety. This is important regular maintenance to eliminate a potential fire hazard.

Laundry Sinks

Tested

Powder Bathroom

Toilet

Tested

Bathroom Ventilation

Type: None noted

Family Bathroom

Sinks and Cabinets

Tested

Toilet

Tested

Bathtub / Shower

Tested

Bathroom Ventilation

Type: Bath fan

General Bath Condition

Standard

Main Bathroom

Sinks and Cabinets

Tested

Toilet

Tested

Bathtub / Shower

Tested

Bathroom Ventilation

Type: Bath fan

General Bath Condition

Standard

Attic

Attic Access

Viewed at access

(A-2) Repair:

The weather strip for the attic access hatch is missing and the hatch is leaking air. This should be better air sealed to prevent heat migration into the attic.

(A-1) Note:

There is no ramp or safe way to access the attic space. Crawling through insulation and on top of framing risks damaging thermal barriers and ceiling finishes and is not a safe way to access an attic. This limited inspection of this space.

Roof Framing and Sheathing

Rafters: 2x4

Sheathing: Plywood

(A-3) Repair:

Stains were noted on the roof decking material when viewed from the attic. This indicates the attic has experienced prior condensation problems during the cold weather months. Generally, the way to prevent seasonal condensation in an attic involves a 4-pronged approach:

1. Air seal the ceiling as is feasible to slow air migration from the interior into the attic.

2. Be sure all bath and kitchen fans in the attic are well-sealed and venting to the exterior.

3. Keep indoor relative humidity below 55% during cold-weather months

4. Make sure the roof cavity / attic spaces are correctly ventilated.

Options for handling this include:

  • Implement the cheapest and most obvious repairs and monitor during cold weather to make sure the space is staying dry and take additional corrective action only if needed
  • Have the attic space further investigated by a mold remediation or building performance contractor.

As this is a real estate transaction, I recommend having it further evaluated by a mold remediation expert to get a more accurate understanding of the scope and urgency for repair. Observations noted during inspection include: rusty nails, staining, cannot see duct terminations (make sure they vent to the exterior), obstructed soffit vents, low insulation levels.

Attic Insulation

Insulation Type: Fiberglass

Approximate Insulation R-Value on Attic Floor: Improve to Modern Standard, 25, Inconsistent

(A-4) Efficiency:

The attic insulation could be improved to modern standards, which recommend R-49 on the floor and R-21 on walls. R-value is the measure of resistance to heat loss; the higher the R-value the better the insulation. During insulation repairs it is best practices to implement any air seal-up repairs to seal air leakage. Also, be sure you have completed any wiring or other projects that are needed in the attic. Then, hire an insulation contractor to improve thermal barriers.

Attic Fan Exhaust Vents

(A-5) Repair:

The exhaust ductwork for the bathroom fans is uninsulated in the attic space. This can lead to seasonal condensation problems and is less energy efficient. Replace these exhaust vents with insulated exhaust ducts or insulate to R-8 or better.

(A-6) Due Diligence:

The bathroom fans may be venting into the crawl space. This could contribute to condensation and mold problems in the attic and overall unreliable performance. Repair all fans to be ducting to the exterior of the home through the roof using proper roof jack vents.

Attic and Roof Cavity Ventilation

Attic Ventilation Method: Soffit vents, Roof jack vents, Gable vents

Attic and roof cavity ventilation is a frequently misunderstood element of residential construction. All roof cavities are required to have ventilation. The general default standard is 1 to 150 of the attic area and ideally, this comes from at least 60% lower roof cavity ventilation and 40% upper, but this is a wild over-simplifications of the subject. As a good guiding principle the most important elements for healthy attic spaces, which are traditionally insulated and ventilated are:

  1. Make sure the ceiling between the living space and the attic is airtight
  2. Ventilate consistently across the whole lower part of the roof cavity with low, intake soffit venting
  3. Upper roof cavity venting is less important and if over-installed can exacerbate air migration into the attic from the living space.
  4. Avoid power ventilators which can depressurize the attic and exacerbate air migration from the house into the attic.

For more information, please see: Link

(A-8) Repair:

The lower, intake soffit vents appear to be obstructed by insulation. Cardboard baffles are typically employed in an attic area to keep insulation away from soffit vents to insure these vents communicate between the outside and the attic. I recommend addition inspection by a qualified general contractor to ensure soffit vents are open and unobstructed.

(A-7) Improve:

The round metal covers used in the soffit vents are not the recommended screens; these obstruct almost all of the air flow. I recommend re-detailing the soffit vents with 1/4 hardware cloth type screen.

Crawl Space

General Crawl Space

(CS3-2) Repair:

Rodent bait stations were noted in the crawl space, with dead rodents present.

(CS3-1) Note:

The photos provided here show representative images of this crawl space at the time of inspection.

Crawl Space Access

Method of Inspection: Crawled

During inspection of the crawl space, every effort is made to inspect the entire space. Visual inspection of crawl spaces is difficult and limited as access is often restricted by pipes, ducts and sub-floor insulation as well as limited clearances.

Vapor Barrier

Vapor Barrier Material: Plastic on earth

Crawl Space Ventilation

Ventilation Method: Exterior wall vents

Posts and Footings

Standard

Insulation

Insulation Type: Fiberglass

(CS3-3) Efficiency:

The under-floor insulation in the crawl space is sagging and not touching the sub-floor in places, as such, it is not performing as intended. Use inset string to support the sub-floor insulation up against the sub-floor. The insulation must be in substantial contact with the surface it is insulating to perform as intended.

Moisture Conditions

No water was visible or present at the time of inspection

Structure and Basement

Foundation

% of Foundation Not Visible: 20%

Evidence of Seismic Protection: Present

Signs of seismic protection noted during inspection. This inspection is not a cohesive analysis of seismic engineering, but I do look for signs of seismic protection.

Building Configuration: Crawl space

Foundation Description: Poured concrete

Receipt -- The Full Report

Report # 211029A
Inspection Date: 2022-08-19

Property inspected for:
Joe Sample
123 Pennsylvania Blvd Belligham, WA

Inspection Fee$525.00
$525.00
PAID

Ridgeline Property Inspections
C/O Brad Oppedal
2315 E St
Bellingham, WA 98225
360.224.0142

Signed Contracts