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The Scope and Purpose of a Home Inspection
Purchasing property involves risk
The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a structure by providing a professional opinion about the overall condition of the structure. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we don’t know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend that you attend the inspection.
A home inspection is not an insurance policy
This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Home warranties can be purchased separately from insuring firms that provide this service.
A home inspection is visual and not destructive
The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing which will limit the scope of the inspection.
This is not an inspection for code compliance
This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction process structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, and this limits the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are augmented at least every three years for all of the varying disciplines. Municipalities can choose to adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their own timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done.
This is just our opinion
Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are the opinions of the home inspector. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have some differing opinions. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals.
The scope of this inspection
This inspection will include the following systems: exterior, roof, structure, drainage, foundation, attic, interior, plumbing, electrical and heating. The evaluation will be based on limited observations that are primarily visual and non-invasive. This inspection and report are not intended to be technically exhaustive.
Your expectations
The overall goal of a home inspection is to help ensure that your expectations are appropriate with the house you are proposing to buy. To this end we assist with discovery by showing and documenting observations during the home inspection. This should not be mistaken for a technically exhaustive inspection designed to uncover every defect with a building. Such inspections are available but they are generally cost-prohibitive to most homebuyers.
Your participation is requested
Your presence is requested during this inspection. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by a shared visual observation of the conditions of the property.
How to Read This Report
Getting the Information to You
This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a quick look at our "Summary Page” and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos and hot links to additional information.
The best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online, which will allow you to expand your learning about your house. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined – clicking on these will provide you with a link to additional information.
This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document.
Chapters and Sections
This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.
Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there may be no narrative observation comments in that section and it may simply say “tested,” or “inspected.”
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
- Limitations:Some areas are not accessible to the inspector. This can be due to permanently attached panels and or personal items blocking certain areas. As per the SOP we do not perform invasive methods to gain access or do we move personal items.
- Major Concern:Repair items that may cost significant money to correct now or in the near future, or items that require immediate attention to prevent additional damage or eliminate safety hazards.
- Repair:Repair and maintenance items noted during inspection. Please note that some repair items can be expensive to correct such as re-finishing hardwood floors, but are considered simply repair items due to their cosmetic nature.
- Recommended Maintenance:These are repair items that should be considered "routine home ownership items," such as servicing the furnace, cleaning the gutters or changing the air filters in the furnace.
- Improve:Observations that are not necessarily defects, but which could be improved for safety, efficiency, or reliability reasons.
- Monitor:Items that should be watched to see if correction may be needed in the future.
- Due Diligence:Observation such as a buried oil tank that may require further investigation to determine the severity and / or urgency of repair.
- Efficiency:Denotes observations that are needed to make the home more energy efficient as well as to bring the home up to modern insulation standards. This category typically includes windows and insulation. Other items, such as lighting and appliances, are not inspected for their energy status.
- Note:Refers to aside information and /or any comments elaborating on descriptions of systems in the home or limitations to the home inspection.
- Description:Detailed description of various aspects of the property noted during the inspection.
Summary Page
The Summary Page is designed as a bulleted overview of all the observations noted during inspection. This helpful overview is not a substitution for reading the entire inspection report. The entire report must be read to get a complete understanding of this inspection report as the Summary Page does not include photographs or photo captions.
Summary
Limitations
Major Concerns
- DPB-1 Decks, Porches and Balconies:
Overall, this is an old deck. Numerous repairs are needed to the decking systems on this house to ensure safe and reliable performance. Some of these repairs can be made, while other issues simply are the way they are until the deck is rebuilt. I recommend additional inspection and repair of these decks by a qualified general contractor. Options include a full re-building or implementing repairs as are feasible to prolong the useful life of the deck. Examples of observations and defects noted during inspection include:
Repairs
- G-2 Grounds:
The graspable handrail for the exterior deck and entry stairs is missing. Handrails should be provided on not less than one side of each flight of stairs with four or more risers. This is required for stairs to and in the house, but may be simply recommended for yard stairs depending on the situation or jurisdiction.
Graspable handrails have specific recommended profiles - shown in the illustrations below. They should be a round railing 1 and 1/4 inches - 2 inches in diameter. If the railing is not round it must have a finger groove that is 3/4 of an inch down from the tallest point of the rail. The graspable handrail should also be 1.5 inches from the wall. 2x material is not considered a graspable handrail. Have a qualified contractor build suitable railings to reduce the potential for falls.
- ESDW-1 Exterior Siding, Doors and Windows:
Damaged and missing screens noted. Repair or replace as desired.
- ESDW-2 Exterior Siding, Doors and Windows:
The front porch post is starting to show signs of water damage. These may need replaced in the near future.
- RCG-1 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:
The roofing material on this building is done in an architectural grade composition shingle. These shingles are often rated as 25-30 year shingles, though I find in practice, as a roof assembly, 15-18 years is more realistic depending on the quality of the installation, the amount of exposure and the pitch of the roof. Please note that roofs are not a shingle, they are an assembly and they require regular maintenance to keep them performing reliably. The shingles are showing signs of aging. Some of the problems include:
- Cracking shingles
- Curling tab edges
- Thinning aggregate
- Moss build up and loose tabs
- RCG-2 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:
Boots have been sealed with silicone. Silicone will crack over time and will allow water entry. These should be changed when the roof is replaced.
- ES-3 Electric Service:
The dead front cover is missing many of the screws needed to adequately secure the cover. Install missing screws as needed for improved safety and please note that screws with sharp ends are not recommended. Care should be used when installing screws. Main wiring can pass close to the hole and over time this can cause insulation damage and arcing.
- H-1 HVAC:
When tested the unit appeared to have a vibration in the compressor. This was noticeable outside and could be heard in the interior of the house. Have a qualified HVAC technician test and evaluate unit.
- EDFW-1 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:
The open electrical splices in the attic should be further evaluated and repaired by a licensed electrical contractor. All wiring splices should be contained inside listed junction boxes. Open or running splices are a sign of amateur or incomplete electrical work and could indicate a need for additional repairs that are latent or concealed. Have this further evaluated and repaired as recommended by a licensed electrical contractor.
- EDFW-2 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:
The missing cover plates to electric receptacles, switches and junction boxes should be installed to cover all access to wiring at switches and receptacles. Where switches, receptacles or junction boxes are positioned below wall or ceiling or cabinet finishes, an extension ring may be needed.
- EDFW-3 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:
An inoperative light was noted at the hallway. If a new bulb does not correct the problem, consult with a licensed electrical contractor.
- EDFW-6 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:
Replace all missing and dead batteries in smoke and CO alarms. As a general rule, plan on replacing batteries in smoke and CO alarms annually. A good time to do this is during a daylight savings time change.
- MB1-2 Main Bathroom:
An S-trap was noted in the main bathroom sink. This is an older style of waste piping that risks siphoning the trap and is no longer allowed. This should be further investigated and repaired by a licensed plumber to ensure reliable performance. Often an air admittance valve can be used to correct this configuration. Please note that trap siphoning could allow sewer gas to enter the house.
- MB1-3 Main Bathroom:
Secure the loose tub fill spigot and ensure this is well mounted - this is important to ensure that plumbing is protected from physical damage.
- B2-2 Bedroom (2):
The carpeting in the master bedroom is loose and has a rolled appearance. This indicates that the carpet should be stretched for a proper finish. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a carpet installer.
- B11-2 Bathroom (1):
The guest bathroom sink faucet is leaking at the handles when operated and requires repair or replacement. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair.
- B21-3 Bathroom (2):
The loose toilet in the guest bath needs to be reset and the wax ring and flange should be replaced to prevent hidden plumbing leaks. This is a simple job unless the bolts that fasten the toilet also require repair. Sometimes, loose toilets can even be shimmed for a tight and proper seal by qualified plumbers and sometimes simply caulking can help prevent the toilet from rocking and twisting. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair.
- B21-4 Bathroom (2):
Seal the ends of the curb cap with appropriate sealant to prevent curb damage from water leaks.
- K-2 Kitchen:
Tested all controls on the range. The rheostat behind the left knob was frozen and did not turn. Very little effort was exerted and shaft severed at the face of the rheostat. The rheostat will have to be changed. The rest of the range could not be tested. See limitation above.
- K-3 Kitchen:
The refrigerator ice maker was off during inspection so I could not verify that it was operational. Repair or make operable as needed.
- K-4 Kitchen:
Seal in kitchen window is damaged from sun exposure.
- A-3 Attic:
The exhaust ductwork for the bathroom fans is vented in the attic and requires repair to ensure fan exhaust is properly venting to the exterior. Having exhaust fans venting into the attic can cause lead to seasonal condensation and moisture controls problems and could damage the attic building materials. Repair to ensure proper discharge of air to the exterior and be sure exhaust ductwork is insulated to R-8 or better to reduce risks of seasonal condensation.
- CS-2 Crawl Space:
A leak was noted at the waste piping. This appears to be the drain for the kitchen sink. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a licensed plumber.
- CS-3 Crawl Space:
Open waste pipe found in the crawlspace. This appears to be on the washer drain pipe.
- P-6 Plumbing:
A drain pan has been installed below the water heater, but no drain was noted for the pan. A drain pan is recommended under water heaters that are located in finished spaces or where a leak could damage finishes. A pan without a drain is often of limited benefit / protection. For improved protection from accidental water heater leaks, and where a drain is difficult to install, consider a pan with a moisture alarm and a flood-safe device such as this: Watts Water Heater Leak Prevention.
- P-9 Plumbing:
Packing at the hose bib handle is leaking when operated. Repair or replace as needed.
Recommended Maintenance Items
- G-1 Grounds:
Trees planted too close to the foundation can cause foundation problems due to root pressure. As a general rule shrubs should be three feet from house and trees at least fifteen feet, with vegetation trimmed back at least six feet from home. Vegetation touching the home cans cause moisture problems and allow access for ground rodents, such as squirrel to reach the homes roof. There are trees that are inside of these measurements and should be considered for removal to prevent damage.
- RCG-3 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:
The gutters are clogged with organic debris and require cleaning to ensure proper control of roof runoff. Clean the gutters and ensure they are unobstructed, leak free and properly sloped to drain. This is routine house maintenance; I would expect the need to clean gutters and downspouts regularly.
- P-8 Plumbing:
Testing of the plumbing system today, the water tested as too hot - 134 degrees F. This is a scald hazard. To prevent scalding, standards recommend indoor hot water temperatures do not exceed 120 degrees. There is some evidence that hot water temperatures should be greater than 130 degrees to prevent Legionnaires' disease from developing in the water heater. If this is a concern, you can heat the water in the tank to 140 degrees F and have a tempering valve installed at the hot water tank. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a licensed plumber or simply turn down the temperature as desired to eliminate a scald hazard. Please note that during inspection it is difficult to accurately test the water temperature as it can vary between fixtures. Testing is done in multiple locations during inspection and a median temperature is taken.
Improves
- ES-4 Electric Service:
Neutrals and grounds are placed under one screw. Current practices recommend one wire one screw for safety. This practice was acceptable at the time this was installed. If repairs are made separating the neutrals and grounds are recommended.
- EDFW-5 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:
There appear to be some of the original smoke alarms. These are getting old. Fire marshals recommended updating smoke alarms every 10 years to ensure reliable performance. Updating is recommended.
- P-7 Plumbing:
The discharge tube for the water heater temperature and pressure relief valve (TPRV) is not correctly installed - see attached link. This is a potential safety hazard. Ideally, the discharge tube for a relief valve:
- Terminates to an exterior location or above a drain, though this is not always possible
- Terminates between 6 and 24-inches off the ground (UPC)
- Slopes to drain to prevent water pooling inside the discharge tube
- Is not made from pipe with an inside diameter less than 3/4 on an inch
- Terminates to a visible location that can be monitored for leaks and discharges
- Does not have a threaded termination point which would prevent accidental capping of this important discharge
- Does not terminate into a drain pan
I recommend having this relief valve discharge tube further investigated and repaired as recommended by a licensed plumber.
Monitors
- P-5 Plumbing:
This water heater is likely close to the end of its useful service life. The average life of these water heaters is statistically 8-12 years though in practice, they can vary widely between 8-20 years depending on water quality and maintenance schedule such as frequency of flushing the tank and replacing sacrificial anodes. Budget to replace this water heater at any time. Water was hot at the time of inspection.
Due Diligences
- P-3 Plumbing:
A video camera sewer scope is recommended. An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. A sewer scope is recommended to further evaluate the sewer line and the below ground connections between the house and the municipal sewer line or septic system. Sewer scopes are done using video cameras and can reveal the materials, condition and reliability of the sewer line. If that has been done recently, I recommend having a sewer scope performed.
Efficiencies
- A-2 Attic:
The insulation in the attic is incomplete. Modern standards for attic insulation are: R-49 on the floor and R-21 on walls. This is likely not fully achievable here and some repairs are needed to just get some insulation installed. Hire a qualified contractor to repair incomplete and inadequate thermal barriers in the attic as is feasible.
Notes
- B1-2 Bedroom (1):
During inspection today I inspected the headers and sills around all windows where accessible. I spot checked around windows using a thermal imager. No water stains, signs of leakage or elevated readings were found. . It is always a good practice to monitor any exposed windows, especially those with south and west exposures to check for leaks during heavy wind-driven rains.
- B2-3 Bedroom (2):
During inspection today I inspected the headers and sills around all windows where accessible. I spot checked around windows using a thermal imager. No water stains, signs of leakage or elevated readings were found. . It is always a good practice to monitor any exposed windows, especially those with south and west exposures to check for leaks during heavy wind-driven rains.
- B3-2 Bedroom (3):
During inspection today I inspected the headers and sills around all windows where accessible. I spot checked around windows using a thermal imager. No water stains, signs of leakage or elevated readings were found. . It is always a good practice to monitor any exposed windows, especially those with south and west exposures to check for leaks during heavy wind-driven rains.
- B4-2 Bedroom (4):
During inspection today I inspected the headers and sills around all windows where accessible. I spot checked around windows using a thermal imager. No water stains, signs of leakage or elevated readings were found. . It is always a good practice to monitor any exposed windows, especially those with south and west exposures to check for leaks during heavy wind-driven rains.
- LF-1 Laundry Facilities:
Apparently, the washer and dryer appliances are not included in this sale.
- CS-1 Crawl Space:
The photos provided here show representative images of this crawl space at the time of inspection.
- P-2 Plumbing:
Low water pressure creates low flow with more than one fixture.
The Full Report
General Comments
Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations
Style of Home: Ranch
Type of Building : Residential Single Family (1 story)
Approximate Square Footage: 1500
The approximate square footage listed here is listed as a courtesy and is based off of public records and disclosure. An evaluation of square footage of the buildings and property lines is beyond the scope of this inspection.
Approximate Year of Original Construction: 2001
Attending the Inspection: Vacant (inspector only)
Occupancy: Unoccupied
Weather during the inspection: Cloudy, Light Rain
Approximate temperature during the inspection: Below 65[F]
Ground/Soil surface conditions: Damp
This house was vacant / unoccupied at the time of inspection. Vacant and unoccupied houses present unique challenges for home inspection, especially the piping and wiring systems which have not be subject to regular use prior to the inspection. While these systems can be tested during inspection, this one-time test is different than regular use and it is difficult to know how these systems will respond to regular use after the inspection. For example, septic systems may initially function and then fail under regular daily use. Plumbing traps may operate with no signs of leaks and then let go when being actively used for a few days. Shower pans may only leak when someone is standing in the shower and taking a shower. Seals for plumbing fixtures can dry up and leak when not is use. Sewer lines with roots may allow water flow, but then fail when waste and tissue are flushed; it can take a few days for that to backup. Please understand we are trying our best to look for clues of past or existing problems to paint a realistic best-guess as to the reliability of these systems during inspection.
Grounds
Drainage and Site
Site Description: Moderate slope
Downspout Discharge: Above grade, Below grade
Grounds, Trees and Vegetation
Trees/Vegetation too near building: Yes- Trees and Shrub clearances
Trees planted too close to the foundation can cause foundation problems due to root pressure. As a general rule shrubs should be three feet from house and trees at least fifteen feet, with vegetation trimmed back at least six feet from home. Vegetation touching the home cans cause moisture problems and allow access for ground rodents, such as squirrel to reach the homes roof. There are trees that are inside of these measurements and should be considered for removal to prevent damage.
Exterior Stairs
Exterior Stairs: Standard
The graspable handrail for the exterior deck and entry stairs is missing. Handrails should be provided on not less than one side of each flight of stairs with four or more risers. This is required for stairs to and in the house, but may be simply recommended for yard stairs depending on the situation or jurisdiction.
Graspable handrails have specific recommended profiles - shown in the illustrations below. They should be a round railing 1 and 1/4 inches - 2 inches in diameter. If the railing is not round it must have a finger groove that is 3/4 of an inch down from the tallest point of the rail. The graspable handrail should also be 1.5 inches from the wall. 2x material is not considered a graspable handrail. Have a qualified contractor build suitable railings to reduce the potential for falls.
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Driveways/Walkways/Flatwork
Driveway: Concrete
Walkways: Concrete
Exterior Siding, Doors and Windows
Siding and Trim
Trim Material: Aluminum, Vinyl
Siding Material: Vinyl
Exterior Doors
Insulated, Glass panel doors
Exterior Window Frames
Vinyl
Damaged and missing screens noted. Repair or replace as desired.
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Porch
The front porch post is starting to show signs of water damage. These may need replaced in the near future.
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Decks, Porches and Balconies
Decks, Porches and Balconies
Present
To see a prescriptive guide for residential wood deck construction click this link:
Overall, this is an old deck. Numerous repairs are needed to the decking systems on this house to ensure safe and reliable performance. Some of these repairs can be made, while other issues simply are the way they are until the deck is rebuilt. I recommend additional inspection and repair of these decks by a qualified general contractor. Options include a full re-building or implementing repairs as are feasible to prolong the useful life of the deck. Examples of observations and defects noted during inspection include:
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Roof, Chimney and Gutters
Roof Materials
Method of Roof Inspection: Walked on roof, Viewed with a camera stick
Roof Style: Gable
Roof Covering Materials: Architectural grade composition shingle
Approximate Age of Roof Covering: 20+ Years
Overlay Roof: No
The roofing material on this building is done in an architectural grade composition shingle. These shingles are often rated as 25-30 year shingles, though I find in practice, as a roof assembly, 15-18 years is more realistic depending on the quality of the installation, the amount of exposure and the pitch of the roof. Please note that roofs are not a shingle, they are an assembly and they require regular maintenance to keep them performing reliably. The shingles are showing signs of aging. Some of the problems include:
- Cracking shingles
- Curling tab edges
- Thinning aggregate
- Moss build up and loose tabs
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Boots have been sealed with silicone. Silicone will crack over time and will allow water entry. These should be changed when the roof is replaced.
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Gutters and Downspouts
Gutter and Downspout Materials: Seamless Aluminum
The gutters are clogged with organic debris and require cleaning to ensure proper control of roof runoff. Clean the gutters and ensure they are unobstructed, leak free and properly sloped to drain. This is routine house maintenance; I would expect the need to clean gutters and downspouts regularly.
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Electric Service
Electric Service Permits Found
These images show electric stickers found during inspection.
Electric Service Voltage
Service Voltage: 120/240
Electric Service
Service Entrance: Above Ground
Meter Base Amperage: 200
Electric Service Equipment
Service Entrance (SE) conductor Size: Aluminum, 4/0, 200 amps
Main Panel Amperage: 200 amps
Main Electric Panel Location: Bedroom, Converted garage
Panel Manufacturer: GE
The dead front cover is missing many of the screws needed to adequately secure the cover. Install missing screws as needed for improved safety and please note that screws with sharp ends are not recommended. Care should be used when installing screws. Main wiring can pass close to the hole and over time this can cause insulation damage and arcing.
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Neutrals and grounds are placed under one screw. Current practices recommend one wire one screw for safety. This practice was acceptable at the time this was installed. If repairs are made separating the neutrals and grounds are recommended.
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Electrical Bonding System
Bonding Noted By Water Heater
This shows bonding connection for the water pipes at the water heater.
HVAC
Unit
Energy Source: Electricity
Manufacturer: Heil
Data Plate: Shown Here
This shows the data plate from the unit. 📸
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Age: 2015
Cooling System
System Type: Package
Size: 2 Tons
Disconnect: Present
Heating System
Heating Method: Heat pump, Electric forced air furnace
When tested the unit appeared to have a vibration in the compressor. This was noticeable outside and could be heard in the interior of the house. Have a qualified HVAC technician test and evaluate unit.
Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring
Branch Wiring
Wire Material: Copper, Multi-strand Aluminum
Wiring Method: Non-metallic sheathed cable
The open electrical splices in the attic should be further evaluated and repaired by a licensed electrical contractor. All wiring splices should be contained inside listed junction boxes. Open or running splices are a sign of amateur or incomplete electrical work and could indicate a need for additional repairs that are latent or concealed. Have this further evaluated and repaired as recommended by a licensed electrical contractor.
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Receptacles and Fixtures
Inspection Method: Representative Testing
A representative number of receptacles and switches were tested during inspection. Any defects found during inspection are noted in this report. Only visible and accessible receptacles and switches were tested during inspection and personal items and furnishings are not moved to access any receptacles or fixtures.
Electric Receptacles: Three wire receptacles
The missing cover plates to electric receptacles, switches and junction boxes should be installed to cover all access to wiring at switches and receptacles. Where switches, receptacles or junction boxes are positioned below wall or ceiling or cabinet finishes, an extension ring may be needed.
An inoperative light was noted at the hallway. If a new bulb does not correct the problem, consult with a licensed electrical contractor.
Ceiling Fans
Ceiling Fans: Present and Tested
The ceiling fans were tested and operating during inspection.
Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm Systems
Smoke Alarms: Present, Old, Updating Recommended, Missing Batteries
During the home inspection, I try and test a representative sample of the smoke alarms by using the test button on the alarms. This is NOT an accurate test of the sensor just a test to see if the unit is powered. For reliability, fire marshals recommended updating smoke alarms every 10 years and changing batteries bi-annually. The latest data indicate that we should be using photoelectric technology in our smoke alarms for improved fire detection and to reduce problems with false alarms which can lead to disabling of this important safety system. Unfortunately, the alarms have to be removed to determine if they are photo-electric or ionization types. It is surprisingly complex to accurately test a smoke alarm system and determine the reliability, age, and type of sensor technology used, especially as many homes can have half a dozen or more alarms throughout the house. A complete evaluation of smoke alarms is beyond the scope of this inspection. For optimal fire safety, I recommend taking control of these important safety devices and learning about how to service and maintain your smoke alarm system to keep the building occupants safe. For more information, please read this link. For more information, please read this link.
Replace all missing and dead batteries in smoke and CO alarms. As a general rule, plan on replacing batteries in smoke and CO alarms annually. A good time to do this is during a daylight savings time change.
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There appear to be some of the original smoke alarms. These are getting old. Fire marshals recommended updating smoke alarms every 10 years to ensure reliable performance. Updating is recommended.
Main Bathroom
General Bathroom Photos (MB)
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Sinks and Cabinets (MB)
Tested
An S-trap was noted in the main bathroom sink. This is an older style of waste piping that risks siphoning the trap and is no longer allowed. This should be further investigated and repaired by a licensed plumber to ensure reliable performance. Often an air admittance valve can be used to correct this configuration. Please note that trap siphoning could allow sewer gas to enter the house.
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Toilet (MB)
Tested
Bathtub / Shower (MB)
Tested
Secure the loose tub fill spigot and ensure this is well mounted - this is important to ensure that plumbing is protected from physical damage.
Bedroom (1)
General Interior Photos (B1)
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Floors and Floor Materials (B1)
Floor Materials: Hardwood
Floor Settlement: None noted
Walls, Ceilings, Trim (B1)
Wall and Ceiling Materials: Drywall
Interior Doors (B1)
Interior Doors: Hollow Core
Windows (B1)
Window Glazing: Double pane
Interior Window Frame: Vinyl
Window Styles: Single hung
During inspection today I inspected the headers and sills around all windows where accessible. I spot checked around windows using a thermal imager. No water stains, signs of leakage or elevated readings were found. . It is always a good practice to monitor any exposed windows, especially those with south and west exposures to check for leaks during heavy wind-driven rains.
Bedroom (2)
General Interior Photos (B2)
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Floors and Floor Materials (B2)
Floor Materials: Carpet
Floor Settlement: None noted
The carpeting in the master bedroom is loose and has a rolled appearance. This indicates that the carpet should be stretched for a proper finish. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a carpet installer.
Walls, Ceilings, Trim (B2)
Wall and Ceiling Materials: Drywall
Interior Doors (B2)
Interior Doors: Hollow Core
Windows (B2)
Window Glazing: Double pane
Interior Window Frame: Vinyl
Window Styles: Single hung
During inspection today I inspected the headers and sills around all windows where accessible. I spot checked around windows using a thermal imager. No water stains, signs of leakage or elevated readings were found. . It is always a good practice to monitor any exposed windows, especially those with south and west exposures to check for leaks during heavy wind-driven rains.
Bedroom (3)
General Interior Photos (B3)
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Floors and Floor Materials (B3)
Floor Materials: Carpet
Floor Settlement: None noted
Interior Doors (B3)
Interior Doors: Hollow Core
Windows (B3)
Window Glazing: Double pane
Interior Window Frame: Vinyl
Window Styles: Single hung
During inspection today I inspected the headers and sills around all windows where accessible. I spot checked around windows using a thermal imager. No water stains, signs of leakage or elevated readings were found. . It is always a good practice to monitor any exposed windows, especially those with south and west exposures to check for leaks during heavy wind-driven rains.
Bedroom (4)
General Interior Photos (B4)
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Floors and Floor Materials (B4)
Floor Materials: Carpet
Floor Settlement: None noted
Walls, Ceiling, Trim (B4)
Wall and Ceiling Materials: Drywall
Interior Doors (B4)
Interior Doors: Hollow Core
Windows (B4)
Window Glazing: Double pane
Interior Window Frame: Vinyl
Window Styles: Single hung
During inspection today I inspected the headers and sills around all windows where accessible. I spot checked around windows using a thermal imager. No water stains, signs of leakage or elevated readings were found. . It is always a good practice to monitor any exposed windows, especially those with south and west exposures to check for leaks during heavy wind-driven rains.
Bathroom (1)
General Bathroom Photos (BA1)
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Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
The guest bathroom sink faucet is leaking at the handles when operated and requires repair or replacement. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair.
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Toilet
Tested
Bathroom (2)
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
The loose toilet in the guest bath needs to be reset and the wax ring and flange should be replaced to prevent hidden plumbing leaks. This is a simple job unless the bolts that fasten the toilet also require repair. Sometimes, loose toilets can even be shimmed for a tight and proper seal by qualified plumbers and sometimes simply caulking can help prevent the toilet from rocking and twisting. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair.
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
Seal the ends of the curb cap with appropriate sealant to prevent curb damage from water leaks.
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Living Area
Floors and Floor Materials
Floor Materials: Hardwood
Floor Settlement: None noted
Walls, Ceiling, Trim
Wall and Ceiling Materials: Drywall
Windows
Window Glazing:
Single pane
Double paneTriple paneSingle pane and storm windows
Interior Window Frame:WoodVinylMetalFiberglass
Window Styles:CasementSlidingSingle hungDouble hungJalousieFixed pane
Window Hardware:Broken Sash CordBrittle Latches
Laundry Facilities
Washer
Not included
Apparently, the washer and dryer appliances are not included in this sale.
Kitchen
Ranges, Ovens and Cooktops
Range/ Oven /Cook-tops: Electric
Breaker off to the range at the time of the inspection
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Tested all controls on the range. The rheostat behind the left knob was frozen and did not turn. Very little effort was exerted and shaft severed at the face of the rheostat. The rheostat will have to be changed. The rest of the range could not be tested. See limitation above.
Refrigerators
Refrigerator: Operating
The refrigerator ice maker was off during inspection so I could not verify that it was operational. Repair or make operable as needed.
Blank
Seal in kitchen window is damaged from sun exposure.
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Garage
Garage Doors and Automatic Openers
Garage Occupant Door:Solid WoodFire RatedNot Fire RatedPet Door CompromisedMissing ThresholdMissing Weather StripHinges MissingHinges Disabled
Attic
Attic Access
Walked
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Roof Framing and Sheathing
Rafters: 2x6
Sheathing: OSB
Attic Insulation
Insulation Type: Fiberglass
The insulation in the attic is incomplete. Modern standards for attic insulation are: R-49 on the floor and R-21 on walls. This is likely not fully achievable here and some repairs are needed to just get some insulation installed. Hire a qualified contractor to repair incomplete and inadequate thermal barriers in the attic as is feasible.
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Attic Fan Exhaust Vents
The exhaust ductwork for the bathroom fans is vented in the attic and requires repair to ensure fan exhaust is properly venting to the exterior. Having exhaust fans venting into the attic can cause lead to seasonal condensation and moisture controls problems and could damage the attic building materials. Repair to ensure proper discharge of air to the exterior and be sure exhaust ductwork is insulated to R-8 or better to reduce risks of seasonal condensation.
Attic and Roof Cavity Ventilation
Attic Ventilation Method: Ridge vents, Soffit vents
HVAC Internal Unit
Air Filters
Filtration Systems: Disposable
The heating and cooling system has disposable air filters installed. These should be changed quarterly or more to ensure proper air flow at the furnace. Be sure to install the filters with the arrows pointing in the same direction as the air flow in the furnace.
Heating and Cooling Distribution Systems
Heat Source in Each Room: Present
Distribution Method: Forced Air / Ducts
Mechanical Ventilation Systems
Bath Fan Ducting: Disconnected in Attic
Crawl Space
General Crawl Space
The photos provided here show representative images of this crawl space at the time of inspection.
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Crawl Space Access
Method of Inspection:CrawledCrawled partialViewed at accessCrawled, but visibility was limited by insulationNo access
During inspection of the crawl space, every effort is made to inspect the entire space. Visual inspection of crawl spaces is difficult and limited as access is often restricted by pipes, ducts and sub-floor insulation as well as limited clearances.
Vapor Barrier
Vapor Barrier Material: Plastic on earth
Crawl Space Ventilation
Ventilation Method: Exterior wall vents
Mechanical Systems
Dryer Vent:Incorrect materialDisconnectedCrawlspace Termination
Waste and Supply Lines (Plumbing): Leak noted
A leak was noted at the waste piping. This appears to be the drain for the kitchen sink. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a licensed plumber.
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Open waste pipe found in the crawlspace. This appears to be on the washer drain pipe.
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Moisture Conditions
No water was visible or present at the time of inspection
Structure and Basement
Foundation
% of Foundation Not Visible: 100%, With limitations
The interior of the foundation walls are covered in cellulose insulation. This limits the ability to see cracking and other problems.
Floor, Wall and Ceiling Framing
Wall Framing: Not visible
Wall Sheathing: Not visible
Floor Framing: Wood I-Joists
Sub-Floor Material: OSB
Ceiling Framing: 2x6
Outbuildings, Trellises, Storage Sheds, Barns
Storage shed
Plumbing
Water Service Supply
Pipe Material: Plastic
Water Supply: Public water
Water Pressure: 40 PSI
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Distribution Pipe
Supply Pipe Materials: PEX
This building has PEX tubing used for supply piping. Crimp ring connections on PEX pipe have very specific installation guidelines and most of these connections will not be visible at the time of inspection (just like any other type of pipe fitting). It is beyond the scope of this inspection to evaluate a significant number of these connections.. Any leaking noted at fittings should result in more careful inspection of all of the plumbing system by a licensed plumber that is experienced in the installation of these types of connections
Functional Flow: Marginal
Low water pressure creates low flow with more than one fixture.
Waste Pipe and Discharge
Discharge Type: Public Sewer
Waste and Vent Pipe Materials: PVC
Location of Sewer Cleanout: Front yard
A video camera sewer scope is recommended. An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. A sewer scope is recommended to further evaluate the sewer line and the below ground connections between the house and the municipal sewer line or septic system. Sewer scopes are done using video cameras and can reveal the materials, condition and reliability of the sewer line. If that has been done recently, I recommend having a sewer scope performed.
Location of sewer cleanout.
Water Heater
Manufacturer: Richmond
Data Plate: Shown Here
This shows the data plate for this water heater.
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System Type: Tank
Size: 40 gal
Age: 2001
Energy Source: Electricity
Drain Pan: Present without drain
Temperature Pressure Relief Value: Present - Not Tested, Inadequate Discharge - General Note
A temperature and pressure relief valve (TPRV) is required on all water heaters to discharge any excessive pressure within the tank. A discharge pipe should be attached to the valve and directed to a safe location away from body contact. Newer installations must be directed to the building exterior or to an approved indoor drain receptor. Most manufacturers suggest that homeowners test these valves at least once a year by lifting the lever to ensure the valve discharges properly and also recommend inspection of these safety devices every three years. The picture here shows a typical TPRV. They may also be found on the side of the heater on some models. I do not test these valves due to the possibility that they may leak after testing. A leaking or inoperative TPRV should be replaced immediately by a licensed plumber.
Due to inconsistencies between both UPC and IPC Plumbing codes, and water heater manufacturer's instructions, and TPRV manufacturer instructions, it is not actually possible to install the drain from the Water Heater TPRV "properly." There are conflicts with distance of termination to the floor/ground, types of pipes approved, and diameters of pipes approved. Additional confusion is added when jurisdictional inspectors approve installations/materials specifically not allowed by both codes and manufacturers. My recommendations will vary depending on the installation and will be included in the applicable narratives below.
Most codes defer to manufacturer instructions and I favor those recommendations. The yellow tag on the valve states clearly the termination should be 6" above the floor which is more consistent with the UPC code requirements.
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A drain pan has been installed below the water heater, but no drain was noted for the pan. A drain pan is recommended under water heaters that are located in finished spaces or where a leak could damage finishes. A pan without a drain is often of limited benefit / protection. For improved protection from accidental water heater leaks, and where a drain is difficult to install, consider a pan with a moisture alarm and a flood-safe device such as this: Watts Water Heater Leak Prevention.
The discharge tube for the water heater temperature and pressure relief valve (TPRV) is not correctly installed - see attached link. This is a potential safety hazard. Ideally, the discharge tube for a relief valve:
- Terminates to an exterior location or above a drain, though this is not always possible
- Terminates between 6 and 24-inches off the ground (UPC)
- Slopes to drain to prevent water pooling inside the discharge tube
- Is not made from pipe with an inside diameter less than 3/4 on an inch
- Terminates to a visible location that can be monitored for leaks and discharges
- Does not have a threaded termination point which would prevent accidental capping of this important discharge
- Does not terminate into a drain pan
I recommend having this relief valve discharge tube further investigated and repaired as recommended by a licensed plumber.
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This water heater is likely close to the end of its useful service life. The average life of these water heaters is statistically 8-12 years though in practice, they can vary widely between 8-20 years depending on water quality and maintenance schedule such as frequency of flushing the tank and replacing sacrificial anodes. Budget to replace this water heater at any time. Water was hot at the time of inspection.
Water Temperature
Water Temperature Measured During Inspection: 138 Degrees F
Testing of the plumbing system today, the water tested as too hot - 134 degrees F. This is a scald hazard. To prevent scalding, standards recommend indoor hot water temperatures do not exceed 120 degrees. There is some evidence that hot water temperatures should be greater than 130 degrees to prevent Legionnaires' disease from developing in the water heater. If this is a concern, you can heat the water in the tank to 140 degrees F and have a tempering valve installed at the hot water tank. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a licensed plumber or simply turn down the temperature as desired to eliminate a scald hazard. Please note that during inspection it is difficult to accurately test the water temperature as it can vary between fixtures. Testing is done in multiple locations during inspection and a median temperature is taken.
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Exterior Hose Bibs
Operating
Packing at the hose bib handle is leaking when operated. Repair or replace as needed.
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Receipt -- The Full Report
La vergne, TN 37086
| Inspection Fee | $435.00 |
| $435.00 | |
| PAID |
Firm Foundation Home Inspection LLC
C/O Chris Kieffer
4910 Smiley Rd.
Chapel Hill, TN 37034
(931)580-7751
Signed Contracts
Firm Foundation Home Inspection LLC
(931)580-7751
ffhomeinspect.com
Inspector: Chris Kieffer, TN State Inspector License
No. 1951
ffhomeinspect@gmail.com
