Company Information

Orca Inspection Services LLC

(206) 713-5715

Inspected by: Dylan Chalk
WA State Pest License #: 65540
WA State Home Inspector #: 365

Overall, this is a nice simple townhome style condominium that is roughly 22 years old. Outside, it has a newer composition roof installed and fiber cement siding and the exterior of the building seems well-maintained. Inside there is a moderate maintenance list that is typical for a unit of this age. There are a few pressing items that could impact the new owners experience in the house, see for example some plumbing and wiring issues. Please see the full report for specific details.


Wood Destroying Organisms

This report includes a structural pest inspection embedded within the report. All observations in this report that begin with WDO are a part of a WA State Pest Inspection. Orca Inspection Services LLC employs Dylan Chalk, Licensed Structural Pest Inspector ##65540. Please note that most WDO observations are related to high moisture conditions that could be conducive to mold-like substances. Orca Inspection Services LLC is not a mold specialist and recommends consulting with an industrial hygienist or other mold remediation expert if concerned about mold or indoor air quality.Pest Inspection Standards in Washington State - WAC 16-228-2045 - REQUIRES THAT A DIAGRAM / DRAWING BE PREPARED FOR WOOD DESTROYING ORGANISM (WDO) REPORTS. IF THE PHOTOS AND DESCRIPTIONS IN THIS REPORT ARE INADEQUATE, A DRAWING IS AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST.

Visible Evidence of Active Wood Destroying Insects None noted

Visible Evidence of Inactive Wood Destroying Insects None noted

Visible Evidence of Damage from Wood Destroying Insects None noted

Visible Evidence of Active Wood Decay and Fungi None noted

Visible Evidence of Conditions Conducive to Wood Destroying Organisms Present, See WDO observations in this report



  • RPWDO-1 Rodents, Pests and Wood Destroying Organisms:

    Wood and cellulose debris was noted in the crawl space. This can encourage wood destroying organisms such as subterranean termites. Removal of all cellulose debris from the crawl space is recommended to eliminate conditions conducive to wood destroying organisms.

  • EG-2 Exterior/Garage:

    Visual inspection of the fiber cement siding installation showed the need for repairs as well as some installation details that are not consistent with modern manufacturers installation requirements. This is typical for this age of construction. Some of the items noted can be repaired or improved, while others simply are the way they are until a larger re-siding is needed. Consult with a qualified contractor to further investigate the siding and repair as recommended to prolong the useful life of the siding. Examples of observations noted during inspection include:

    • Siding run right to the horizontal flashing and sealed. This is not recommended but difficult to fix at this point. I would caulk and seal the crack in the siding - east side above door.
    • Siding to concrete contact is not recommended - a minimum 1- 2 inch clearance should be maintained. This will be difficult to correct at this point.
    • Siding with inadequate clearance to grade - should be 6 inches to soils - try and improve grading at the front side.
    • The siding is in contact with the decking. This is not ideal and could trap moisture on the siding.
    • Missing back flashings at butt joints - these flashings can be retrofit on exposed sides of the building with metal flashing tabs or maintained with caulking.
  • RA-1 Roof/Attic:

    Clean organic debris from the roof to ensure unrestricted paths for roof drainage. This is routine maintenance that should be part of a regular maintenance schedule for the HOA.

  • RA-2 Roof/Attic:

    Signs of air leakage around the skylight chambers were found inside the attic today. Air-sealing air leakage points is recommended to reduce risks of condensation and water damage around the skylight and to conserve energy.

  • HCFV-3 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

    The ductwork for the bathroom fans is uninsulated in the attic space. This can cause condensation during cold weather and is less energy efficient. Replace these with insulated exhaust ducts or insulate to R-8 or better.

  • K-1 Kitchen:

    The kitchen has no provisions for ventilation. An exhaust fan that ducts to the exterior is required at least somewhere in the kitchen - in this case, all you have is the window for ventilation, which is marginal. Lack of ventilation to the exterior could be inconvenient with cooking odors. Hire a qualified contractor to further evaluate this installation and install a cooktop fan and exhaust system to the outdoors.

  • FB-1 Family Bathroom:

    The loose toilet in the downstairs bath needs to be reset and the wax ring and flange should be replaced to prevent hidden plumbing leaks. This is a simple job unless the bolts that fasten the toilet also require repair. Sometimes, loose toilets can even be shimmed for a tight and proper seal by qualified plumbers and sometimes simply caulking can help. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair.

  • CS-3 Crawl Space:

    Crawl space vents are currently blocked by insulation in places. Implement repairs as needed to ensure vents are unobstructed. Use cardboard baffles to hold insulation up away from the vents.


  • EG-3 Exterior/Garage:

    Where the wood braces or corbels for the eaves stick out past the roof frame it would be wise to build metal flashing caps to protect this wood from decay.

  • LAP-1 Laundry and Additional Plumbing:

    A moisture alarm with water shut-off features is recommended under the washing machine to protect against accidental leaks in the supply hoses. Pans can be effective when there is a drain, but even these will not protect against a burst supply connector. A moisture alarm with automatic shut-off will. Watts is a brand I have seen installed:

Due Diligences

  • RA-6 Roof/Attic:

    Stains were noted on the roof decking material when viewed from the attic - see only the small gable on the north side. This indicates that parts of the attic have experienced prior condensation problems during the cold weather months. Generally, the way to prevent seasonal condensation in an attic involves a 4-pronged approach:

    1. Air seal the ceiling as is feasible to slow air migration from the interior into the attic.

    2. Be sure all bath and kitchen fans in the attic are well-sealed and venting to the exterior.

    3. Keep indoor relative humidity below 55% during cold-weather months

    4. Make sure the roof cavity / attic spaces are correctly ventilated.

    Options for handling this include:

    • Monitor during cold weather to see if any corrective action is needed.
    • Have it further investigated by a mold remediation or building performance contractor.

    It is difficult to gauge during a one time inspection the degree to which this is an older or intermittent problem. This makes it difficult to make an accurate recommendation for corrective action as it can take time to determine a practical scope and urgency for repair. For more information about roof condensation problems, please see the attached hot link above. Observations noted during inspection include:

    • No new staining on new roof nails - indicates no issues since the roof installation.
    • Staining looks old and localized and was dry at the time of inspection.
    • The whole south side of the attic looks dry and the plywood has a nice bright color.