HardiePlank Siding

HardiePlank siding is a fiber-cement type siding that consists of fibrous materials with a cement component and silica sand/fibers that are compressed together with interior resins that have an embossed outside textured or smooth appearance. HardiePlank contains no asbestos, fiberglass or formaldehyde. This material is a relatively newly engineered product. It has no long term track record to match the 30 year warranty that comes with it, but it has received good reviews in the trades regarding it's stability and durability if properly applied and maintained. It has also become a very popular siding alternative to wood siding due to its durability, price and low maintenance characteristics.

There are some specific requirements for installation and protection. HardiePlank can be blind-nailed or face nailed at the builders discretion but is recommended to be face nailed in high wind areas. HardiePlank cannot be blind nailed with 24" oc framing. Nails should be corrosion resistant and caulked, and double nailed if a penetration of the siding skin occurs while nailing. Butt ends of material should be in moderate contact with minimal gapping and are currently not recommended to be caulked. Previously, up until Oct 2008, the butt joints were recommended to be either butted together or gapped a maximum of 1/8” and caulked. Currently the joints should have “joint flashing” behind, which can consist of a number of different materials such as Mylar, felt, metal or strip/gap backing. At this time Hardie does not specify what the joint backing material requirements are. All window, door and trim connections should be caulked as with standard building practice. It can be hand nailed or compressor nailed, but staples should not be used. Full installation instructions are noted with a link below.

Penetrations such as hose bibs and holes 1 1⁄2” or larger, such as dryer vents, furnace vents, electrical and light fixture boxes should have a flashed block of trim around point of penetration. Smaller piping does not require blocking but should be well caulked.

HardiePlank and HardiePanel need to be kept painted. This is a fiber cement material that is porous and will absorb moisture if not kept sealed, which can cause flaking, mold and deterioration. Any caulking, primer or paint used is required to be 100% latex acrylic material. HardiePlank should not be stained.

There have been numerous difficulties with different types of applied products that are engineered, such as Louisiana-Pacific siding, Masonite Omni-Board, pressboard panel type siding as opposed to natural materials such as cedar siding. HardiePlank siding, having limited long term history, is difficult to comment on in regard to its expected life span and aging characteristics, but has been faring very well in comparison.

HardiePlank siding does have a “30-Year Limited Transferable Warranty”, but "transferable", as stated in the fine print of this materials contract, includes transference only from the original material buyer, meaning the builder, to the first purchaser and then to the second purchaser. Subsequent buyers/owners are not covered by this warranty. Calling this a 30-year transferable warranty seems optimistic since upon sale of the structure to a third buyer and beyond, there is no warranty protection. Few structures are owned for 30 years by just two individuals.

Further information:

James Hardie Building Products at 1-800-426-4051 - www.jameshardie.com

HardiePlank installation instructions http://www.jameshardie.com/d2w/installation/hardieplank-hz10-us-en.pdf

Hardie Best Practices https://www.jameshardiepros.com/Install-and-Tech-Docs/BrowseTechDocs?doctype=Best%20Practice%20Guide

Parts of the exterior siding system here are done using manufactured stone veneer. This is a cement-based product that is manufactured to look like natural stone. It is often used as a decorative detail on the exterior of residential construction and it is occasionally used as an extensive part of the exterior siding system. As a general guide to understanding this product, it should be installed in a fashion similar to hard-coat stucco. One critical aspect of the installation that is concealed once the installation is complete is that two layers of underlayment should be used beneath this product.

During inspection, we look for installation issues that are not consistent with the installation details provided by the manufacturer. There are many different manufacturer's of this stone and they all seem to use a common installation guide from the MVMA - The Masonry Veneer Manufacturers Association. It is fairly common to find installation techniques that are not consistent with this guide. There seems to be a general lag in the industry to get installers to use this guide.

In general, concerns over installation should be in proportion to the amount of MSV that has been used and the amount of exposure. Those sections that are exposed to the weather will require careful detailing for reliable moisture control. Please see any observations in the report below regarding any specific findings here today.

This link will also get you to a series of blogs with some additional information about MSV.

Roof flashings are used to keep a roofing system waterproof where the roofing material starts, stops, changes direction or is penetrated. During inspection, we look for standard flashing techniques that could be considered normal or standard in our region. Damaged, incomplete or non-standard flashings can be a sign of an older or less reliable roofing system and may require repair. Any non-standard flashings noted during inspection will be reported on below if found.

There has recently been a recall of some Square D service panels with manufacturing dates between 200561 and 220233. This link will take you to the CPSC website explaining the risk. The proper datecode can only be found on the inside of the panel next to the main breaker. The Inspector noted that your panel isn\'t affected by the recall. No further action appears required.

A representative number of receptacles and switches were tested during inspection. Any defects found during inspection are noted in this report. Only visible and accessible receptacles and switches were tested during inspection and personal items and furnishings are not moved to access any receptacles or fixtures.

Please note that the GFCI reset for the exterior circuits are located in the garage.

The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. In addition, Washington State law (WAC 51-51-0315) now requires UL 2034 approved carbon monoxide alarms in ALL homes and condominiums being sold in Washington State. The location should be: at least one alarm outside of all sleeping areas and one on each floor of the house. Best practices are to have these alarms hardwired with a battery back-up - though requirements are for the installation to meet manufacturer's specifications. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death. Alarms have a useful service life of roughly 6 years, so changing them more frequently than smoke alarms is recommended.

During the home inspection, I test a representative sample of the smoke alarms by using the test button on the alarms. This is NOT an accurate test of the sensor, merely a test to see if the unit is currently powered. For reliability, fire marshals recommended replacing smoke alarms every 10 years (min) and changing batteries bi-annually. The latest data indicate that we should be using photoelectric technology in our smoke alarms for improved fire detection and to reduce problems with false alarms which can lead to disabling of this important safety system. Unfortunately, the alarms have to be removed to determine if they are photo-electric or ionization types. It is surprisingly complex to accurately test a smoke alarm system and determine the reliability, age, and type of sensor technology used, especially as many homes can have half a dozen or more alarms throughout the house. A complete evaluation of smoke alarms is beyond the scope of this inspection. For optimal fire safety, I recommend taking control of these important safety devices and learning about how to service and maintain your smoke alarm system to keep the building occupants safe. For more information, please read this link.

This house has a gas forced air furnace. A critical component to all combustion heating equipment is the heat exchanger. This is the welded metal assembly inside the furnace that contains the products of combustion so that moisture, carbon monoxide and other products of combustion do not mix with interior air and get safely vented to the exterior. Heat exchangers on modern furnaces have an average life expectancy of 15-20 years. Unfortunately, heat exchangers are concealed inside the heating equipment; they are not visible and specifically excluded from a home inspection. Cracks in heat exchangers may be concealed and can pose a potential safety hazard. Having the unit serviced by qualified professionals should include an examination of the heat exchanger with a report on its current condition. Inspector strongly suggests that you get the unit serviced in a timely manner to create a baseline for future maintenance.

The heating system has disposable air filters installed. These should be changed quarterly or more to ensure proper air flow at the furnace. Be sure to install the filters with the arrows pointing in the same direction as the air flow in the furnace.

The visible portions of the supply piping appear to be insulated. However, prior to freezing weather it is always a good idea to check pipes and hose bibs for adequate insulation. Hose bibs often need to be winterized prior to cold weather.

This building has PEX tubing used for supply piping. Crimp ring connections on PEX pipe have very specific installation guidelines and most of these connections will not be visible at the time of inspection (just like any other type of pipe fitting). It is beyond the scope of this inspection to evaluate a significant number of these connections.. Any leaking noted at fittings should result in more careful inspection of all of the plumbing system by a licensed plumber that is experienced in the installation of these types of connections

This shows the data plate for this water heater.

A temperature and pressure relief valve (TPRV) is required on all water heaters to discharge any excessive pressure within the tank. A discharge pipe should be attached to the valve and directed to a safe location away from body contact. Newer installations must be directed to the building exterior or to an approved indoor drain receptor. Most manufacturers suggest that homeowners test these valves at least once a year by lifting the lever to ensure the valve discharges properly and also recommend inspection of these safety devices every three years. The picture here shows a typical TPRV. They may also be found on the side of the heater on some models. I do not test these valves due to the possibility that they may leak after testing. A leaking or inoperative TPRV should be replaced immediately by a licensed plumber.

Due to inconsistencies between both UPC and IPC Plumbing codes, and water heater manufacturer's instructions, and TPRV manufacturer instructions, it is not actually possible to install the drain from the Water Heater TPRV "properly." There are conflicts with distance of termination to the floor/ground, types of pipes approved, and diameters of pipes approved. Additional confusion is added when jurisdictional inspectors approve installations/materials specifically not allowed by both codes and manufacturers. My recommendations will vary depending on the installation and will be included in the applicable narratives below.

Most codes defer to manufacturer instructions and I favor those recommendations. The yellow tag on the valve states clearly the termination should be 6" above the floor which is more consistent with the UPC code requirements.

The water temperature was tested multiple times during inspection. It is common for water temperatures to fluctuate throughout the house depending on the distance from the water heater, the water heater settings, the type of water heater and any thermostatic controls used in the plumbing fixtures and mixing valves. For reporting, the highest noted temperature is used.

The water heater temperature is just right at the time of inspection - measuring 115-120 degrees F. The range of 100-120 degrees F is the generally recommended temperature. This is nearly impossible to measure precisely during a home inspection as water temperature can vary between fixtures. I try and test the water temperature in several places and report the highest reading. Adjust water heater temperature as needed. For best practice, set water temperature at the water heater to 120 degrees F, as suggested by the RCW.

There is no refrigerator for the kitchen - you will need to buy and install one.

I inspected the attic space today and no red flags were noted regarding prior moisture build-up or relative humidity. Venting appeared unrestricted. Wood has a nice bright color indicating no prior moisture problems with relative humidity. As this is a new building, I would monitor this after moving in.

Attic and roof cavity ventilation is a frequently misunderstood element of residential construction. All roof cavities are required to have ventilation. The general default standard is 1 to 150 of the attic area and ideally, this comes from at least 60% lower roof cavity ventilation and 40% upper, but this is a wild over-simplifications of the subject. As a good guiding principle the most important elements for healthy attic spaces, which are traditionally insulated and ventilated are:

1. Make sure the ceiling between the living space and the attic is airtight
2. Ventilate consistently across the whole lower part of the roof cavity with low, intake soffit venting
3. Upper roof cavity venting is less important and if over-installed can exacerbate air migration into the attic from the living space.
4. Avoid power ventilators which can depressurize the attic and exacerbate air migration from the house into the attic.

For more information, please see: Link

Please note that the floor frame system was not visible as this sub-floor is well-insulated. I had to just spot check framing for pest damage.

The photos provided here show representative images of this crawl space at the time of inspection.

During inspection of the crawl space, every effort is made to inspect the entire space. However, sometimes access/visibility to some areas/systems can be restricted by pipes, ducts, sub-floor insulation, and construction techniques. Any such limitations encountered during this inspection will be listed here:

• No obstacles, fully crawled