Wyatt Rusche
The Scope and Purpose of a Home Inspection
Purchasing property involves risk
The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a structure by providing a professional opinion about the overall condition of the structure. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection, and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we don’t know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend you attend the inspection.
A home inspection is not an insurance policy.
This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee. Home warranties can be purchased separately from insuring firms that provide this service.
A home inspection is visual and not destructive.
The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging, or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden, or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking, they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing, which will limit the scope of the inspection.
This is not an inspection for code compliance.
This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction, process structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time, and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, limiting the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are augmented at least every three years for all disciplines. Municipalities can adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done.
This is just our opinion.
Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are the opinions of the home inspector. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have some differing opinions. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals.
The scope of this inspection
This inspection will include the following systems: exterior, roof, structure, drainage, foundation, attic, interior, plumbing, electrical, and heating. The evaluation will be based on limited observations that are primarily visual and non-invasive. This inspection and report are not intended to be technically exhaustive.
Your expectations
The overall goal of a home inspection is to help ensure that your expectations are appropriate for the house you are proposing to buy. To this end, we assist with the discovery by showing and documenting observations during the home inspection. This should not be mistaken for a technically exhaustive inspection designed to uncover every defect in a building. Such inspections are available, but they are generally cost-prohibitive to most homebuyers.
Your participation is requested.
Your presence is requested during this inspection. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by a shared visual observation of the conditions of the property.
How to Read This Report
Getting the Information to You
This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a quick look at our "Summary Page” and quickly get the critical information for important decision-making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos, and hot links to additional information.
The best way to get the layers of information presented in this report is to read your report online, which will allow you to expand your learning about your house. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined – clicking on these will provide you with additional information.
This report can also be printed to a PDF file and printed on paper as desired.
Chapters and Sections
This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left-side margin.
Most sections will contain some descriptive information in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there might be no narrative observation comments in that section, and it may simply say “tested” or “inspected.”
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered, and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
- Major Concern:Repair items that may cost significant money to correct now or in the near future, or items that require immediate attention to prevent additional damage or eliminate safety hazards.
- Repair:Repair and maintenance items noted during inspection. Please note that some repair items can be expensive to correct such as re-finishing hardwood floors, but are considered simply repair items due to their cosmetic nature.
- Recommended Maintenance:These are repair items that should be considered "routine home ownership items," such as servicing the furnace, cleaning the gutters or changing the air filters in the furnace.
- Due Diligence:Observation such as a buried oil tank that may require further investigation to determine the severity and / or urgency of repair.
- Improve or Upgrade:Observations that are not necessarily defects, but which could be improved for safety, efficiency, or reliability reasons. These are often items which reflect changes in building codes or standards.
- Future Project:A repair that may be deferred for some time but should be on the radar for repair or replacement in the near future.
- Inspection Notes:Aside information and /or comments elaborating on descriptions of systems in the home that the inspector might find useful to purchase decisions or home ownership. .
- Limitations:Conditions present at the time of inspection which limited the scope of this visual inspection
Summary Page
The Summary Page is designed as a bulleted overview of all the observations noted during the inspection. This helpful overview is not a substitute for reading the entire inspection report. The entire report must be read to get a complete understanding of this inspection report, as the Summary Page does not include photographs or photo captions.
Moisture Meter Testing
Where moisture meter testing is indicated in this report, a Protimiter Survey Master Dual Function was used.
Summary
Major Concerns
No major concerns were noted during this visual inspection.Repairs
- G1-3 Grounds:
POOR SITE GRADING
The grade of the yard slopes toward the building. Standards recommend a quarter-inch / foot slope away from the building or better to prevent water from draining toward the building. Over time, negative grading, as this is often called, can lead to moisture and even structural problems with the building. Have this repaired as feasible by a qualified contractor. Often, a swale is used to create a low point away from the house into which water can be diverted away from and around the building.
- G1-4 Grounds:
CRACKS NOTED IN FLATWORK
Cracks were noted in the walkway flatwork. This is common in flatwork, especially as it ages. Regular sealing of small to moderate cracks with a quality exterior flexible sealant can minimize water penetration and prolong the life of the flatwork. Large cracks can present a more urgent need for repair, especially if the cracks lead to displacement and trip hazards.
✒
- No immediate repair appears necessary, though water will continue to deteriorate the surface until the flatwork is repaired or replaced.
- G1-6 Grounds:
SETTLEMENT IN ENTRY STAIRS
While inspecting the exterior I observed settlement in the exterior entryway stairs. The bottom step was slanted and the stair treads had a larger than acceptable difference in the tread heights. The height of the tallest riser shall not exceed the smallest riser by more than 3/8th of an inch. This poses a tripping hazard. I recommend a qualified contractor further evaluate and repair as necessary.
- E-2 Exterior:
MASONRY RE-POINTING RECOMMENDED
While inspecting the exterior, there were several spots of the masonry that could use re-pointing with mortar. Recommend a qualified contractor evaluate and repair.
- E-3 Exterior:
EXTERIOR DOOR HAS A KEYED DEAD BOLT
The dead bolt for the exterior door is opened with a key rather than a thumb-toggle. This can inhibit easy fire egress. Switch this deadbolt with a thumb-toggle dead bolt for improved safety and fire egress. This is required for the main egress door, but recommended for all doors for improved fire safety.
- DPB-1 Decks, Porches and Balconies:
LARGE OPENINGS FOR DECK GUARDRAIL
The openings for the deck guardrail are larger than modern standard of 4-inches. Caution should be used, especially around small children as they can often fit their head between this space of railing. Hire a qualified general contractor to complete the back deck guard as needed.
- RCG-1 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:
ORGANIC BUILDUP NEAR GUTTERS
While inspecting the roof, I observed a buildup of organic tree droppings present on the back roof above the porch. This causes issues to the operating efficiency of the gutters and downspout systems and can lead to wood rod and premature failure of the exterior envelope. Noted in picture 3 is what appeared to be moisture damage on the wood trim behind the gutter, which is directly below the buildup observed. I recommend regular cleaning of the gutters to protect from buildups.
I recommend annual cleanings of your roof and gutter systems. I'd also recommend a qualified contractor review the moisture on the trim board as it is a candidate for needed replacement as well.
- ES-2 Electric Service:
ELECTRIC CIRCUIT BREAKS REQUIRE LABELING
Inadequate labeling of the breakers was noted during inspection at the main electrical panel. This should be corrected for improved safety.
- ES-4 Electric Service:
CORROSION ON GROUND BONDING
While inspecting the basement, I observed the bonding connection to the water pipes. The copper grounding wire observed had significant corrosion noted on it. This can cause resistance in the path that the electricity wants to take, which can ultimately lead to a shock hazard. I recommend a qualified contractor evaluate and repair as necessary.
- EDF-1 Electric Distribution and Finish:
ABANDONED WIRING NOTED
Abandoned wiring was noted in the basement This should be eliminated or properly terminated inside a listed junction box. It is often not feasible to determine if wire is still connected to a power source. I can test these with a voltage sensor, but they could be shut off by a switch or temporarily disconnected. I did test some wires and noted some abandoned wires were live, which is a shock risk. For optimal safety, all abandoned wires should be eliminated or properly terminated inside a junction box.
- EDF-2 Electric Distribution and Finish:
OPEN GROUNDS
Hire a licensed electrician to eliminate all open grounds. This is a common condition in older buildings (prior to 1962) where three-prong receptacles have been installed on an older two-wire system. This creates a safety hazard as it is false advertising; appliances that rely on an equipment ground to discharge a fault can be plugged into ungrounded circuits. This disables the important safety feature of an equipment ground. A proper repair can include:
- Running an equipment grounding conductor or a new three-wire circuit
- Filling the third prong of the receptacle or restoring a two-prong receptacle or
- Installing GFCI protection for this circuit and labeling the open-ground receptacles
If GFCI protection is used, the outlets on this circuit should be labeled, so it is clear they are ungrounded and GFCI protected. Examples of locations where open grounds were found include:
- EDF-3 Electric Distribution and Finish:
GFCI NOT RESETTING
The GFCI protected receptacle in the laundry room did not respond to normal testing and may be defective - it did not re-set indicating it is wired in series with another GFCI or it is defective. Have this receptacle repaired or replaced as needed.
- I-1 Interior:
TRIP HAZARD AT ENTRY
While inspecting the interior, I observed a 1/2 inch drop from the entry tile to the hardwood flooring. This presents a trip hazard and can lead to bodily harm. I recommend a qualified contractor install a transition piece for safety.
- K-3 Kitchen:
NO ANTI-TIP FOR THE RANGE
An anti-tip device is needed to prevent this range from tipping during operation of the oven door. This is a small clip that secured the back adjustable feet of the range to the floor. This is especially a hazard to small children.
- LF-1 Laundry Facilities:
FOIL DRYER EXHAUST TRANSIOTION DUCT
Foil or Mylar transition duct was noted in use to connect the dryer to the rigid vent. This product is generally UL listed for use with a dryer, however, most dryer manufacturers do not recommend it as it has proven to be unreliable and a potential fire hazard. A corrugated metal flex duct is recommended. Repair as needed.
- 1FB-1 1st Floor Bathroom:
FAILING TILE GROUT
The tile floor in the 1st floor bathroom has failing / missing grout. Have all failing grout repaired or replaced by a qualified tile setter to ensure reliable and water-proof performance. I also recommend cleaning and sealing this tile grout. Please note that the reliability of tile depends on what it is mounted on and what it is mounted with and this is not visible to inspection. It is always possible that proper repair could necessitate tile replacement, a significant expense.
- CS-1 Crawl Space:
NO VAPOR BARRIER PRESENT
No vapor barrier has been installed on the soils of this crawl space to contain the moisture in the ground. This is a conducive pest condition and can lead to high moisture conditions. Install a 6 mil. black plastic vapor barrier to cover all exposed earth.
- SB-1 Structure and Basement:
NOTCHED FLOOR JOIST OBSERVED
The floor joists have been over-notched The notching looks to be more than 1/3 of the framing depth, which risks damaging or weakening the framing. I recommend additional inspection and repair of the over-notched floor joist. Repair by heading off or sister as recommended by a qualified general contractor.
Recommended Maintenance
- G1-5 Grounds:
TREE AND VEGETATION PRUNING
Pruning trees, branches and vegetation away from the building is recommended. Where trees, branches and large shrubs can provide rodent access to the roof, a minimum 6-foot clearance is recommended as many rodents can jump 6-feet. All vegetation, including smaller landscaping such as grasses, flowers and shrubs should be kept 1-foot off the house to eliminate contact which could trap moisture against the building.
✒️
- Please note that trees hanging over this building may originate on the neighbor's property. This could present some complications in tree pruning though a general precedent is that you are allowed to prune to the property line.
- E-1 Exterior:
SIDING MAINTENANCE NEEDED
Localized caulking repairs are needed to the exterior of the building. This is common recommended maintenance between complete exterior paint jobs to ensure that the more exposed areas continue to preform reliably. Implement painting and/or caulking repairs as recommended by a qualified contractor. Examples of specific observations noted during inspection include:
- Caulking noted for some of the trim on the entry side of the building
- ES-3 Electric Service:
ELECTRIC PANLE WORKING CLEARANCE
An inadequate working clearance was noted in front of the electric panel. This presents a potential safety hazard, especially for people working on or inspecting the electric panel. A 30-inch wide and 36-inch deep unobstructed working clearance is recommended for improved safety. Relocate cabinets and storage as needed to ensure safe and reliable access.
- WH-1 Water Heaters:
WATER TESTED HOT
Testing of the plumbing system today, the water tested as too hot - 140+ degrees F. This is a scald hazard. To prevent scalding, standards recommend indoor hot water temperatures do not exceed 120 degrees. There is some evidence that hot water temperatures should be greater than 130 degrees to prevent Legionnaires' disease from developing in the water heater. If this is a concern, you can heat the water in the tank to 140 degrees F and have a tempering valve installed at the hot water tank. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a licensed plumber, or simply turn down the temperature as desired to eliminate a scald hazard. Please note that during the inspection, it is difficult to accurately test the water temperature as it can vary between fixtures. Testing is done in multiple locations during the inspection, and a median temperature is taken.
Due Diligence Items
- GC-1 General Comments:
OLD BUILDINGS AND LEAD AND ASBESTOS
In 1978, federal laws were passed to prohibit use of lead and asbestos in building materials. Manufacturers of building materials were allowed to sell existing stocks of materials that were manufactured with lead and asbestos, so even buildings constructed as late as the mid-1980's could possibly contain lead or asbestos. Identification and testing for lead and asbestos and other environmental testing is beyond the scope of this home inspection. If you wish to seek additional information, I recommend contacting an environmental lab or industrial hygienist.
- P-1 Plumbing:
VIDEO SEWER SCOPE RECOMMENDED
An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. A sewer scope is recommended to further evaluate the sewer line and the below ground connections between the house and the municipal sewer line as these are not visible to inspection. Sewer scopes are done using video cameras and can show the materials, condition and reliability of the sewer line. If a video scope has not been done recently, I recommend having a sewer scope performed.
- A-1 Attic:
POSSIBLE MOISTURE INTRUSTION IN ATTIC
While inspecting the attic, I observed visible spots of what appeared to be moisture intrusion around the vent terminations. However, my moisture meter did not sense this to be a wet spot. This might be a sign of previous water damage which is no longer an issue. I recommend monitoring the situation here and if you believe moisture is entering from this area, having a qualified roofer evaluate and repair as needed.
Improve Or Upgrade Items
- I-2 Interior:
The guardrail for the interior stairs leading to the basement has been built to an older safety standard. Modern standards suggest guardrails should have openings no larger than 4 inches, should be 36 inches tall and be adequately stiff to withstand a falling adult. Exceptions for this rule include:
Recommendation
Repair or improve this guardrail as desired for improved safety.
- K-1 Kitchen:
NO DISHWASHER
There is no dishwasher for the kitchen and no space in which to install a dishwasher. If you wish to have a dishwasher here you will need to have one installed including provisions for electricity, drain lines and water supply.
Future Projects
- G-1 Garage:
GARAGE: MOISTURE AT SETTLEMENT
While inspecting the exterior, I noted that there were no gutters on the garage. As a result, there was evidence of moisture intrusion beneath both eaves of the roof where the water runs straight off. As this is not a living space, the risks associated here are downgraded, however settlement and moisture intrusion will still be the result and warrants monitoring. I'd recommend a qualified contractor install gutters and downspouts to protect the structure.
📸 The Complete Report
Grounds
General Grounds Photos
Drainage and Site
Window and Stairwells
Driveways/Walkways/Flatwork
Grounds, Trees and Vegetation
Exterior Stairs
Fences
Outbuildings, Trellises, Storage Sheds, Barns
Electric Service
Electric Service Voltage Tested
Electric Service
Electric Service Equipment
Electrical Grounding System
Electrical Bonding System
Electric Distribution and Finish
Branch Wiring
Receptacles and Fixtures
Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm Systems
Ceiling Fans
Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation
Heating Systems
Air Filters
Cooling Systems and Heat Pumps
Heating and Cooling Distribution Systems
Interior
Floors and Floor Materials
Walls, Ceilings, Trim, Hallways and Closets
Stairs and Railings
Interior Doors
Kitchen
Sinks and Faucets
Cabinets and Countertops
Disposers
Dishwasher
Ventilation Method
Ranges, Ovens and Cooktops
Refrigerators
General Kitchen Condition
Attic
Attic Access
Roof Framing and Sheathing
Fire Separation and Fire Blocking
Attic Insulation
Attic and Roof Cavity Ventilation
General Comments
Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations
Style of Home: A Frame
Type of Building : Single Family (2-story)
Approximate Square Footage: 1500
The approximate square footage listed here is listed as a courtesy and is based off of public records and disclosure. An evaluation of square footage of the buildings and property lines is beyond the scope of this inspection.
Approximate Year of Original Construction: 1926
Attending the Inspection: Buyer
Occupancy: Occupied
Animals Present: Cat/s present
Weather during the inspection: Ice
Please note that snow and ice will limit the scope of the inspection. Typically, a visual inspection of the roof and grounds on the outside of the house is severalty limited when snow and ice are present.
Approximate temperature during the inspection: Below 32[F]
Ground/Soil surface conditions: Frozen
For the Purposes of This Report, the Front Door Faces: South
OLD BUILDINGS AND LEAD AND ASBESTOS
In 1978, federal laws were passed to prohibit use of lead and asbestos in building materials. Manufacturers of building materials were allowed to sell existing stocks of materials that were manufactured with lead and asbestos, so even buildings constructed as late as the mid-1980's could possibly contain lead or asbestos. Identification and testing for lead and asbestos and other environmental testing is beyond the scope of this home inspection. If you wish to seek additional information, I recommend contacting an environmental lab or industrial hygienist.
This home was occupied at the time of the inspection. Inspection of occupied homes presents some challenges as occupant belongings can obstruct visual inspection of and access to parts of the building. We do our best during inspection to work around belongings to discover as much as possible about the house without moving or damaging personal property, however, the presence of personal items does limit the inspection.
Grounds
Drainage and Site
Clearance to Grade: Standard
Downspout Discharge: Above grade
Site Description: Flat
POOR SITE GRADING
The grade of the yard slopes toward the building. Standards recommend a quarter-inch / foot slope away from the building or better to prevent water from draining toward the building. Over time, negative grading, as this is often called, can lead to moisture and even structural problems with the building. Have this repaired as feasible by a qualified contractor. Often, a swale is used to create a low point away from the house into which water can be diverted away from and around the building.
Window and Stairwells
Present
Driveways/Walkways/Flatwork
Driveway: None noted
Walkways: Concrete
Patios: None noted
CRACKS NOTED IN FLATWORK
Cracks were noted in the walkway flatwork. This is common in flatwork, especially as it ages. Regular sealing of small to moderate cracks with a quality exterior flexible sealant can minimize water penetration and prolong the life of the flatwork. Large cracks can present a more urgent need for repair, especially if the cracks lead to displacement and trip hazards.
✒
- No immediate repair appears necessary, though water will continue to deteriorate the surface until the flatwork is repaired or replaced.
Grounds, Trees and Vegetation
Trees/Vegetation too near building: Yes - Prune Vegetation off House
TREE AND VEGETATION PRUNING
Pruning trees, branches and vegetation away from the building is recommended. Where trees, branches and large shrubs can provide rodent access to the roof, a minimum 6-foot clearance is recommended as many rodents can jump 6-feet. All vegetation, including smaller landscaping such as grasses, flowers and shrubs should be kept 1-foot off the house to eliminate contact which could trap moisture against the building.
✒️
- Please note that trees hanging over this building may originate on the neighbor's property. This could present some complications in tree pruning though a general precedent is that you are allowed to prune to the property line.
Exterior Stairs
SETTLEMENT IN ENTRY STAIRS
While inspecting the exterior I observed settlement in the exterior entryway stairs. The bottom step was slanted and the stair treads had a larger than acceptable difference in the tread heights. The height of the tallest riser shall not exceed the smallest riser by more than 3/8th of an inch. This poses a tripping hazard. I recommend a qualified contractor further evaluate and repair as necessary.
Fences
Exterior Fencing: Present
The property has a fencing system in place. Inspection and evaluation of fencing is beyond the scope of a home inspection. If the fencing system is important for your use of this property, I recommended a self-examination to see how it will meet your needs. I may make cursory comments about fencing as a courtesy.
Outbuildings, Trellises, Storage Sheds, Barns
None noted
Exterior
Siding and Trim
Trim Material: Metal
Siding Material: Vinyl
SIDING MAINTENANCE NEEDED
Localized caulking repairs are needed to the exterior of the building. This is common recommended maintenance between complete exterior paint jobs to ensure that the more exposed areas continue to preform reliably. Implement painting and/or caulking repairs as recommended by a qualified contractor. Examples of specific observations noted during inspection include:
- Caulking noted for some of the trim on the entry side of the building
Eaves
Open rafters
Exterior Doors
Exterior Door Styles: Solid core
EXTERIOR DOOR HAS A KEYED DEAD BOLT
The dead bolt for the exterior door is opened with a key rather than a thumb-toggle. This can inhibit easy fire egress. Switch this deadbolt with a thumb-toggle dead bolt for improved safety and fire egress. This is required for the main egress door, but recommended for all doors for improved fire safety.
Exterior Window Frames
Window Frames: Vinyl
Decks, Porches and Balconies
Decks, Porches and Balconies
Present
Structure: Concrete
Ledger Board: Not applicable
Guardrail: Large Openings
Decking Material: Concrete
Posts, Beams and Footings: Inspected
LARGE OPENINGS FOR DECK GUARDRAIL
The openings for the deck guardrail are larger than modern standard of 4-inches. Caution should be used, especially around small children as they can often fit their head between this space of railing. Hire a qualified general contractor to complete the back deck guard as needed.
Garage
Garage General
Garage Type: Detached
GARAGE: MOISTURE AT SETTLEMENT
While inspecting the exterior, I noted that there were no gutters on the garage. As a result, there was evidence of moisture intrusion beneath both eaves of the roof where the water runs straight off. As this is not a living space, the risks associated here are downgraded, however settlement and moisture intrusion will still be the result and warrants monitoring. I'd recommend a qualified contractor install gutters and downspouts to protect the structure.
Garage Doors and Automatic Openers
Overhead Garage Door Type: Metal
Automatic Garage Opener: Present
Garage Occupant Door: Fire Rated
Garage Floor
Garage Slab: Typical Cracks Noted
TYPICAL SLAB CRACKS NOTED
Typical cracks were noted in the concrete garage slab. No control joints were used in the pour here so the concrete will crack. You can fill the cracks with a masonry rated caulking, but no repair is needed at this time; this is a cosmetic defect.
Roof, Chimney and Gutters
Roof Materials
Method of Roof Inspection: Viewed at top of ladder
Roof Style: Gable
Flashings, Valleys and Penetrations: Present and Visually Standard
Roof flashings are used to keep a roofing system waterproof where the roofing material starts, stops, changes direction, or is penetrated. During the inspection, we look for standard flashing techniques that could be considered normal or standard in our region. Damaged, incomplete or non-standard flashings can be a sign of an older or less reliable roofing system and may require repair. Any non-standard flashings noted during the inspection will be reported below if found.
Roof Covering Materials: Architectural grade composition shingle
Approximate Age of Roof Covering: 5-10 Years
Overlay Roof: No
Shingle Fastening Accessible For Inspection : No
Please note that when inspecting composition roof installations, I try and look under shingles to see how the shingles have been fastened. Proper fastening is critical for successful roof performance. Often the shingles are bonding so well, they cannot be lifted to inspect the fastening. In this case, I was unable to lift the shingles and see the fastening pattern - they are bonded well and I do not use a flat bar to pry them apart as part of a visual inspection unless there is a reason to start chasing visible leaks. While this limits my visual inspection, this is a good sign, as loose, un-bonded shingles can lead to wind damage and would be written up as a defect.
ORGANIC BUILDUP NEAR GUTTERS
While inspecting the roof, I observed a buildup of organic tree droppings present on the back roof above the porch. This causes issues to the operating efficiency of the gutters and downspout systems and can lead to wood rod and premature failure of the exterior envelope. Noted in picture 3 is what appeared to be moisture damage on the wood trim behind the gutter, which is directly below the buildup observed. I recommend regular cleaning of the gutters to protect from buildups.
I recommend annual cleanings of your roof and gutter systems. I'd also recommend a qualified contractor review the moisture on the trim board as it is a candidate for needed replacement as well.
Chimneys
Present
Chimney Material: Masonry
Chimney Flue Liners: Not visible
The chimney and fireplace appear to be nonfunctional, so the inspection of these items was not thorough. If there are ever plans to make the chimney functional again, I recommend a qualified chimney technician evaluate prior to use.
Fuel Storage and Distribution
Gas, Propane and Oil Piping
Gas Piping Materials Noted: Copper
Electric Service
Electric Service Voltage Tested
Service Voltage: 120/240
Electric Service Equipment
Service Entrance (SE) conductor Size: Copper, #2, 125 amps
Main Panel Amperage: 200 amps
Electric Service Amperage: 200 amps
Main Electric Panel Location: Basement
Overcurrent Protection Devices: Breakers
Panel Manufacturer: Siemens
ELECTRIC PANLE WORKING CLEARANCE
An inadequate working clearance was noted in front of the electric panel. This presents a potential safety hazard, especially for people working on or inspecting the electric panel. A 30-inch wide and 36-inch deep unobstructed working clearance is recommended for improved safety. Relocate cabinets and storage as needed to ensure safe and reliable access.
Electrical Grounding System
Present - Could Not Confirm
During a home or property inspection, every effort is made to inspect the visible components of the electrical system grounding. The grounding system is critical for safely discharging electrical surges, especially in the case of lightning strikes. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of the grounding system as much of the system is not visible, and there are no practical tests one can perform in the way we can test a furnace or a plumbing fixture. However, many things can lead me to recommend further evaluation of the grounding system by a licensed electrical contractor, and they will be documented in the observations below if discovered.
Electrical Bonding System
Bonding Noted on Water Pipes
Bonding connections were noted on the water pipes.
CORROSION ON GROUND BONDING
While inspecting the basement, I observed the bonding connection to the water pipes. The copper grounding wire observed had significant corrosion noted on it. This can cause resistance in the path that the electricity wants to take, which can ultimately lead to a shock hazard. I recommend a qualified contractor evaluate and repair as necessary.
Electric Distribution and Finish
Branch Wiring
Wire Material: Copper
Wiring Method: Non-metallic sheathed cable
ABANDONED WIRING NOTED
Abandoned wiring was noted in the basement This should be eliminated or properly terminated inside a listed junction box. It is often not feasible to determine if wire is still connected to a power source. I can test these with a voltage sensor, but they could be shut off by a switch or temporarily disconnected. I did test some wires and noted some abandoned wires were live, which is a shock risk. For optimal safety, all abandoned wires should be eliminated or properly terminated inside a junction box.
Receptacles and Fixtures
Inspection Method: Representative Testing
A representative number of receptacles and switches were tested during inspection. Any defects found during inspection are noted in this report. Only visible and accessible receptacles and switches were tested during inspection and personal items and furnishings are not moved to access any receptacles or fixtures. Inspection/testing of the electrical system can be challenging. It should be anticipated that not all defects will be discovered and that some issues found may actually not be defects at all. Tools used to verify proper wiring and function can vary wildly in reliability/consistency. The kinds of tools that could be used to confidently analyze the system and its function cannot typically be done in the context of a Standard Home Inspection. I look for indications of issues, based on the age of the home, types of wiring systems used etc, as well as personal experience and by testing with a variety of common tools. Issues identified, will be further discussed with recommendations in the electrical section below.
Electric Receptacles: Open Grounds in Old House
OPEN GROUNDS
Hire a licensed electrician to eliminate all open grounds. This is a common condition in older buildings (prior to 1962) where three-prong receptacles have been installed on an older two-wire system. This creates a safety hazard as it is false advertising; appliances that rely on an equipment ground to discharge a fault can be plugged into ungrounded circuits. This disables the important safety feature of an equipment ground. A proper repair can include:
- Running an equipment grounding conductor or a new three-wire circuit
- Filling the third prong of the receptacle or restoring a two-prong receptacle or
- Installing GFCI protection for this circuit and labeling the open-ground receptacles
If GFCI protection is used, the outlets on this circuit should be labeled, so it is clear they are ungrounded and GFCI protected. Examples of locations where open grounds were found include:
GFCI NOT RESETTING
The GFCI protected receptacle in the laundry room did not respond to normal testing and may be defective - it did not re-set indicating it is wired in series with another GFCI or it is defective. Have this receptacle repaired or replaced as needed.
Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm Systems
CO Alarms Noted:Outside all Sleeping Areas
Smoke Alarms Noted:On Main FloorOn 2nd Floor
Ceiling Fans
Ceiling Fans: Present and Not Tested
Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation
Heating Systems
Energy Source: Natural gas
Heating Method: Electric forced air furnace
Manufacturer: Carrier
Listed Max Capacity Per Data Plate: 60,000 btu's
Age: 2021
Air Filters
Filtration Systems: Disposable
The heating and cooling system has disposable air filters installed. These should be changed quarterly or more to ensure proper airflow at the furnace. Be sure to install the filters with the arrows pointing in the same direction as the airflow in the furnace.
Cooling Systems and Heat Pumps
Air Conditioning Present
The following list is a minimum set of requirements to be expected of heat pump or air conditioning servicing. I provide these as a courtesy to show they types of check-ups that should be expected from a professional servicing.
- Check compressor efficiency
- Check refrigerant level
- Clean the condenser coil
- Change or clean air filters
- Inspect contactors and wiring
- Inspect drive-sheaves, pulleys and belts
- Check and adjust for proper air flow
- Clean the blower motor as needed
- Lubricate all motors and shaft bearings
- Check, calibrate and program the thermostats and be sure the thermostat has adequate batteries as needed
- Check unit smoke detector, clean filter if applicable
- Check safety disconnect, laser-temp -- check across contacts
Manufacturer: Carrier
Listed Nominal Capacity: 2 Tons
Energy Source: Electric
Age: 2022
TOO COLD TO TEST AC
The air conditioning system and condensate control system could not be tested during inspection. Outdoor temperatures should exceed 65 degrees F for at least 24-hours or the air conditioning equipment can be damaged by testing. I recommended having this system serviced and inspected prior to the next cooling season.
Heating and Cooling Distribution Systems
Heat Source in Each Room: Present
Distribution Method: Forced Air / Ducts
Plumbing
Water Service Supply
Pipe Material: Copper
Water Supply: Public water
Water Pressure: Water Pressure Tested
Main Water Shut-off Location: Basement
Distribution Pipe
Pipe Insulation: Present
Supply Pipe Materials: PEX
This building has PEX tubing used for supply piping. Crimp ring connections on PEX pipe have very specific installation guidelines and most of these connections will not be visible at the time of inspection (just like any other type of pipe fitting). It is beyond the scope of this inspection to evaluate a significant number of these connections.. Any leaking noted at fittings should result in more careful inspection of all of the plumbing system by a licensed plumber that is experienced in the installation of these types of connections
Functional Flow: Average
Waste Pipe and Discharge
Discharge Type: Public Sewer - Buyer
Waste and Vent Pipe Materials: ABS plastic
Location of Sewer Cleanout: Basement
VIDEO SEWER SCOPE RECOMMENDED
An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. A sewer scope is recommended to further evaluate the sewer line and the below ground connections between the house and the municipal sewer line as these are not visible to inspection. Sewer scopes are done using video cameras and can show the materials, condition and reliability of the sewer line. If a video scope has not been done recently, I recommend having a sewer scope performed.
Exterior Hose Bibs
Not Tested - Interior Only Inspection
Water Heaters
Water Heater
System Type: Tank
Manufacturer: GE
Size: 40 gal
Age: 2023
Energy Source: Gas
Relief Valve: Present - Not Tested
A temperature and pressure relief valve (TPRV) is required on all water heaters to discharge any excessive pressure within the tank. A discharge pipe should be attached to the valve and directed to a safe location away from body contact. Newer installations must be directed to the building exterior or to an approved indoor drain receptor. Most manufacturers suggest that homeowners test these valves at least once a year by lifting the lever to ensure the valve discharges properly and also recommend inspection of these safety devices every three years. The picture here shows a typical TPRV. They may also be found on the side of the heater on some models. I do not test these valves due to the possibility that they may leak after testing. A leaking or inoperative TPRV should be replaced immediately by a licensed plumber.
Due to inconsistencies between both UPC and IPC Plumbing codes, and water heater manufacturer's instructions, and TPRV manufacturer instructions, it is not actually possible to install the drain from the Water Heater TPRV "properly." There are conflicts with distance of termination to the floor/ground, types of pipes approved, and diameters of pipes approved. Additional confusion is added when jurisdictional inspectors approve installations/materials specifically not allowed by both codes and manufacturers. My recommendations will vary depending on the installation and will be included in the applicable narratives below.
Most codes defer to manufacturer instructions and I favor those recommendations. The yellow tag on the valve states clearly the termination should be 6" above the floor which is more consistent with the UPC code requirements.
Water Temperature
Water Temperature Measured During Inspection: 140 Degrees F
WATER TESTED HOT
Testing of the plumbing system today, the water tested as too hot - 140+ degrees F. This is a scald hazard. To prevent scalding, standards recommend indoor hot water temperatures do not exceed 120 degrees. There is some evidence that hot water temperatures should be greater than 130 degrees to prevent Legionnaires' disease from developing in the water heater. If this is a concern, you can heat the water in the tank to 140 degrees F and have a tempering valve installed at the hot water tank. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a licensed plumber, or simply turn down the temperature as desired to eliminate a scald hazard. Please note that during the inspection, it is difficult to accurately test the water temperature as it can vary between fixtures. Testing is done in multiple locations during the inspection, and a median temperature is taken.
Interior
Floors and Floor Materials
Floor Materials: Hardwood, Tile
Floor Settlement: None noted
Walls, Ceilings, Trim, Hallways and Closets
Wall and Ceiling Materials: Drywall, Lath and Plaster
Stairs and Railings
Standard
The guardrail for the interior stairs leading to the basement has been built to an older safety standard. Modern standards suggest guardrails should have openings no larger than 4 inches, should be 36 inches tall and be adequately stiff to withstand a falling adult. Exceptions for this rule include:
Recommendation
Repair or improve this guardrail as desired for improved safety.
Interior Doors
Interior Doors: Hollow Core
Kitchen
Sinks and Faucets
Tested
Cabinets and Countertops
Countertop Material: Plastic laminate
Cabinet Material: Wood
Disposers
Disposer: Operated
Dishwasher
Dishwasher: None Noted - No Plumbing and No Location for One
NO DISHWASHER
There is no dishwasher for the kitchen and no space in which to install a dishwasher. If you wish to have a dishwasher here you will need to have one installed including provisions for electricity, drain lines and water supply.
Ventilation Method
No Fan - Just a Window
The kitchen has no provisions for ventilation. An exhaust fan that ducts to the exterior is required at least somewhere in the kitchen - in this case, the window is the ventilation. Lack of ventilation to the exterior could be inconvenient with cooking odors. Hire a qualified contractor to further evaluate this installation and install a cooktop fan and exhaust system to the outdoors.
✒️
- This is an older building that would pre-date any requirements for kitchen ventilation. It could be added as desired.
Ranges, Ovens and Cooktops
Range/ Oven /Cook-tops: Gas
Refrigerators
Refrigerator: Operating
General Kitchen Condition
Standard
Laundry Facilities
Dryer
Tested
Proper dryer exhaust venting is critical for safe and reliable performance from the dryer. Here are some basic rules of thumb for dryer exhaust duct installation: Unless a vent-free appliance is being used, the dryer exhaust vent must terminate outdoors. It should be no more than 25 feet long and for every 90 degree turn subtract 5 feet and for every 45 degree bend subtract 2.5 feet. Use only smooth-wall metal vent pipe @ 4 inch pipe diameter. Do not use plastic pipe and plastic flex pipe. If a flexible connector is needed behind the dryer use a short amount of corrugated metal pipe. If the exhaust duct is getting pinched behind dryer, consider use of a dryer vent box, pictured here. Flex and corrugated pipes should never be used in concealed spaces such as through walls or in attic or crawl spaces. Insulate dryer exhaust duct where it passes through unconditioned spaces to prevent condensation that could hasten lint build-up inside the pipe. Do not use screws to connect pipe as these can trap lint. Secure duct with foil tape as needed. Be sure duct is sleeved properly so that it will not trap lint and clean the vent regularly, especially if it is a long exhaust run.
Power Source: Electric
Exhaust Duct: Ducted to Exterior
FOIL DRYER EXHAUST TRANSIOTION DUCT
Foil or Mylar transition duct was noted in use to connect the dryer to the rigid vent. This product is generally UL listed for use with a dryer, however, most dryer manufacturers do not recommend it as it has proven to be unreliable and a potential fire hazard. A corrugated metal flex duct is recommended. Repair as needed.
Laundry Sinks
None noted
Laundry Ventilation
Type: Operable window
1st Floor Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
Shower Type: Acrylic/Fiberglass
Tub Type: Acrylic/Fiberglass
Acrylic Shower/Tub: It appears well-mounted, minimal flexing noted underfoot
Stepping inside the acrylic shower/tub I did not find any significant flexing underfoot.
Bathroom Ventilation
Type: Bath fan
General Bath
Standard
FAILING TILE GROUT
The tile floor in the 1st floor bathroom has failing / missing grout. Have all failing grout repaired or replaced by a qualified tile setter to ensure reliable and water-proof performance. I also recommend cleaning and sealing this tile grout. Please note that the reliability of tile depends on what it is mounted on and what it is mounted with and this is not visible to inspection. It is always possible that proper repair could necessitate tile replacement, a significant expense.
Upstairs Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Inoperative
Bathroom Ventilation
Type: Operable window
NO VENT IN BATHROOM
While inspecting the upstairs bathroom, I noted the lack of a vent in the room. There is an operable window which satisfies the requirement for ventilation, but having a vent installed is a more surefire way to ensure the room is properly ventilated at all times to prevent organic growth buildup on the ceiling. When showering it is advised to crack the window to allow moisture to escape.
General Bath
Standard
BATHROOM TESTING PROCEEDURES
During inspection today I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for concealed leaks and sounded for loose tile and finishes in shower and tub enclosures. I do not test bathtub overflow drains as this risks damaging finishes around the tub. Monitor tubs while filling and avoid pushing water into the overflow. Even well-installed overflow drains can leak as the gaskets that seal the overflow will dry out over time and may no longer provide a watertight seal. Monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents less stress on plumbing than daily use. Please note that vacant homes present additional risk as it can be difficult to distinguish how the plumbing system will respond to daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
Attic
Attic Access
Walked
Roof Framing and Sheathing
Rafters: 2x6
Sheathing: Solid wood
POSSIBLE MOISTURE INTRUSTION IN ATTIC
While inspecting the attic, I observed visible spots of what appeared to be moisture intrusion around the vent terminations. However, my moisture meter did not sense this to be a wet spot. This might be a sign of previous water damage which is no longer an issue. I recommend monitoring the situation here and if you believe moisture is entering from this area, having a qualified roofer evaluate and repair as needed.
Fire Separation and Fire Blocking
Fire Blocking and Fire Separation in Attic: Not Visible
Attic and Roof Cavity Ventilation
Attic Ventilation Method: Ridge vents, Gable vents
Crawl Space
General Crawl Space
Crawl Space: Present
Crawl Space Access
Method of Inspection: Crawled partial
During inspection of the crawl space, every effort is made to inspect the entire space. Visual inspection of crawl spaces is difficult and limited as access is often restricted by pipes, ducts and sub-floor insulation as well as limited clearances.
Crawl Space Access Hatch Location: Interior access hatch
Vapor Barrier
Vapor Barrier Material: None Present
Crawl Space Ventilation
Ventilation Method: Exterior wall vents
Posts and Footings
Standard
Insulation
Insulation Type: Fiberglass
Moisture Conditions
No water was visible or present at the time of inspection
Structure and Basement
Foundation
% of Foundation Not Visible: 70%
Building Configuration: Basement, Crawl space
Foundation Description: Masonry block
Floor, Wall and Ceiling Framing
Wall Framing: Not visible
Wall Sheathing: Not visible
Floor Framing: 2x10
Sub-Floor Material: Plywood
Ceiling Framing: Not visible
NOTCHED FLOOR JOIST OBSERVED
The floor joists have been over-notched The notching looks to be more than 1/3 of the framing depth, which risks damaging or weakening the framing. I recommend additional inspection and repair of the over-notched floor joist. Repair by heading off or sister as recommended by a qualified general contractor.
Basement
Full
Basement Moisture
None noted
Invoice -- 📸 The Complete Report
[REDACTED]
Inspection Fee | $1,000.00 |
$0.00 | |
1000.00 | |
DUE |