Unless the wiring in the building has been fully updated, this building likely has wiring that predates the late 1980's. Branch circuit wiring installed in buildings built prior to the late 1980's is typically rated for a maximum temperature of only 60 degrees Celsius. This includes non-metallic sheathed (Romex) wiring, and both BX and AC metal-clad flexible wiring. Knob and tube wiring, typically installed in homes built prior to 1950, may be rated for even lower maximum temperatures. Newer electric fixtures including lighting and fans typically require wiring rated for 90 degrees Celsius. Connecting newer fixtures to older, 60-degree-rated wiring is a potential fire hazard. Repairs for such conditions may involve replacing the last few feet of wiring to newer fixtures with new 90-degree-rated wire, and installing a junction box to join the old and new wiring. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if any such incompatible components are installed. Based on the age of this building, be aware that such components may be present.

The property has a fencing system in place. Inspection and evaluation of fencing is beyond the scope of a home inspection. If the fencing system is important for your use of this property, I recommended a self-examination to see how it will meet your needs. I may make cursory comments about fencing as a courtesy.

Manufacturers of fiber cement siding have done a poor job helping inspectors and consumers distinguish their products after installation; these products have few if any distinguishing characteristics. This report will site James Hardie manufacturers installation requirements for reference because they are the most common manufacturer of fiber cement siding and the various manufactures seem to share similar installation guidelines. Here is a link to the HZ-10 Best Practices Guide. However, reference of these guidelines in this report does not ensure that the fiber cement siding here is a James Hardie product.

To see a prescriptive guide for residential wood deck construction click this link:

Roof flashings are used to keep a roofing system waterproof where the roofing material starts, stops, changes direction, or is penetrated. During the inspection, we look for standard flashing techniques that could be considered normal or standard in our region. Damaged, incomplete or non-standard flashings can be a sign of an older or less reliable roofing system and may require repair. Any non-standard flashings noted during the inspection will be reported below if found.

Please note that when inspecting composition roof installations, I try and look under shingles to see how the shingles have been fastened. Proper fastening is critical for successful roof performance. Often the shingles are bonding so well, they cannot be lifted to inspect the fastening. In this case, I was unable to lift the shingles and see the fastening pattern - they are bonded well and I do not use a flat bar to pry them apart as part of a visual inspection unless there is a reason to start chasing visible leaks. While this limits my visual inspection, this is a good sign, as loose, un-bonded shingles can lead to wind damage and would be written up as a defect.

During a home or property inspection, every effort is made to inspect the visible components of the electrical system grounding. The grounding system is critical for safely discharging electrical surges, especially in the case of lightning strikes. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of the grounding system as much of the system is not visible, and there are no practical tests one can perform in the way we can test a furnace or a plumbing fixture. However, many things can lead me to recommend further evaluation of the grounding system by a licensed electrical contractor, and they will be documented in the observations below if discovered.

During the inspection, I attempt to visually document electrical system bonding. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of system bonding. All metallic systems in the building are required to be "bonded" (connected) to the the building's electrical grounding system. Bonding creates a pathway to shunt static charges (that would otherwise build up on the system) to earth, and to provide a pathway to trip a breaker in the event that these bonded metallic components became energized. There are many things that can lead me to recommend further evaluation of this system by a licensed electrical contractor and they will be documented as repair items in the observations below if discovered.

During inspection I make an effort to test and inspect all accessible electric receptacles and switches. In general, the scope of testing is directly related to access; where personal belonging and furniture obstruct access to receptacles and fixtures, fewer of them can be reasonably tested during inspection. All defects found during inspection today will be listed in this report. Inspection/testing of the electrical system can be challenging. It should be anticipated that not all defects will be discovered and that some issues found may actually not be defects at all. Tools used to verify proper wiring and function can vary wildly in reliability/consistency. The kinds of tools that could be used to confidently analyze the system and its function cannot typically be done in the context of a Standard Home Inspection. I look for indications of issues, based on the age of the home, types of wiring systems used etc, as well as personal experience and by testing with a variety of common tools. Issues identified, will be further discussed with recommendations in the electrical section below.

The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cooktops, gas fireplaces, and wood stoves. In addition, Washington State law (WAC 51-51-0315) now requires UL 2034-approved carbon monoxide alarms in ALL homes and condominiums being sold in Washington State. The location should be: at least one alarm outside of all sleeping areas and one on each floor of the house. Best practices are to have these alarms hardwired with a battery back-up - though requirements are for the installation to meet the manufacturer's specifications. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea, and even death. Alarms have a useful service life of roughly 6 years, so changing them more frequently than smoke alarms is recommended.

During the home inspection, I try and test a representative sample of the smoke alarms by using the test button on the alarms. This is NOT an accurate test of the sensor, just a test to see if the unit is powered. For reliability, fire marshals recommended updating smoke alarms every ten years and changing batteries bi-annually. The latest data indicate that we should be using photoelectric technology in our smoke alarms for improved fire detection and reducing problems with false alarms, which can lead to disabling of this critical safety system. Unfortunately, the alarms must be removed to determine if they are photo-electric or ionization types. It is surprisingly complex to accurately test a smoke alarm system and determine the reliability, age, and type of sensor technology used, especially as many homes can have half a dozen or more alarms throughout the house. A complete evaluation of smoke alarms is beyond the scope of this inspection. For optimal fire safety, I recommend taking control of these critical safety devices and learning about how to service and maintain your smoke alarm system to keep the building occupants safe. For more information, please read this link. For more information, please read this link.

The following list is a minimum set of requirements to be expected of heat pump or air conditioning servicing. I provide these as a courtesy to show they types of check-ups that should be expected from a professional servicing.

• Check compressor efficiency
• Check refrigerant level
• Clean the condenser coil
• Change or clean air filters
• Inspect contactors and wiring
• Inspect drive-sheaves, pulleys and belts
• Check and adjust for proper air flow
• Clean the blower motor as needed
• Lubricate all motors and shaft bearings
• Check, calibrate and program the thermostats and be sure the thermostat has adequate batteries as needed
• Check unit smoke detector, clean filter if applicable
• Check safety disconnect, laser-temp -- check across contacts

R-410A REFRIGERANT NOTED

This heat pump system utilizes R-410A refrigerant. Starting in 2025, we will start to see newer, more energy-efficient refrigerant being used for heat pumps and air conditioning systems: R-454B. Click here for more information. At this time, it is not clear if there are any implications for this older refrigerant.

CHANGE DISPOSABLE HVAC FILTERS QUARTERLY

The heating and cooling system has disposable air filters installed. These should be changed quarterly or more to ensure proper airflow at the furnace. Be sure to install the filters with the arrows pointing in the same direction as the airflow in the furnace.

Thermal images show the radiant floor pads or electric floor heaters, working during inspection.

This shows the location of the main water shut-off located in the garage.

The visible portions of the supply piping appear to be insulated. However, prior to freezing weather it is always a good idea to check pipes and hose bibs for adequate insulation and freeze protection to protect pipes from cold weather and freezing conditions. Hose bibs can often be winterized prior to cold weather.

This building has PEX tubing used for supply piping. There are multiple types of PEX tubing including: A, B, C as well as some with aluminum walls. Crimp ring connections on B and C PEX pipe have very specific installation guidelines and most of these connections will not be visible at the time of inspection (just like any other type of pipe fitting). It is beyond the scope of this inspection to evaluate a significant number of these connections.. Any leaking noted at fittings should result in more careful inspection of all of the plumbing system by a licensed plumber that is experienced in the installation of these types of connections. We look for signs of leaks in the building using infrared and moisture meters.

MONITOR PIPES AND PLUMBING SYSTEMS AFTER MOVING IN

I recommend monitoring waste and supply plumbing and plumbing fixtures for several months after moving in. I ran all plumbing fixtures during the inspection. Any leaks or signs of active or past leaks will be noted elsewhere in this report. Daily use of plumbing presents more stress and challenges to piping systems than simply testing them during inspection.

For more information about septic systems and how they work, please see this web site from the EPA - a homeowners guide to on-site septic systems:

This shows the water pressure tested during the inspection. Generally, "normal water pressure" should be between 30-80 PSI, though pressures near or below 30 can result in poor functional flow to fixtures. Water pressures in excess of 80 PSI risk damaging supply piping components and should be controlled with a pressure-reducing valve.

This building has a heat pump water heater installed. These are water heater storage tanks that can use elements to heat the water as is done in a conventional electric water heater or they can use a refrigerant cycle when in heat pump mode. You should notice several modes of operation for this system:

• Hybrid Mode - combines high efficiency with reduced recovery times
• Efficiency Mode - the most energy efficient mode uses the heat pump the most but has reduced recovery time
• Electric Mode - by-passes the heat pump and functions as a regular electric water heater
• Vacation Mode - - reduces temperature while away for energy savings

Heat pump water heater can be more energy efficient than a conventional water heater depending on how you run them. Please note that when in heat pump mode, heat will be extracted from the space in which they are installed. If that room communicates with exterior air, you may not notice, but in the water heater is installed in a basement or garage, these rooms could appear surprisingly cold. Attached, please find a Link to AO Smith, a common brand of heat pump water heater.

In 2015, the federal government updated minimum standards for the energy efficiency of water heaters. This can impact replacing water heaters that are greater than 55 gallons. This article will help you understand how this could impact your next water heater purchase. https://getscribeware.com/blog/federal-government-changed-next-water-heater/

The water temperature was tested multiple times during inspection. It is common for water temperatures to fluctuate throughout the house depending on the distance from the water heater, the water heater settings, the type of water heater and any thermostatic controls used in the plumbing fixtures and mixing valves. For reporting, the median temperature is used.

This kitchen has an induction cooktop. These are unique cooking systems and are very energy efficient. Induction cooking uses induction heating to directly heat a cooking vessel, as opposed to using heat transfer from electrical coils or burning gas as with a traditional cooking stove. For nearly all models of induction cooktop, a cooking vessel must be made of a ferromagnetic metal, or placed on an interface disk which enables non-induction cookware to be used on induction cooking surfaces.

In an induction cooker, a coil of copper wire is placed underneath the cooking pot. An alternating electric current flows through the coil, which produces an oscillating magnetic field. This field induces an electric current in the pot. Current flowing in the metal pot produces resistive heating which heats the food. While the current is large, it is produced by a low voltage.

An induction cooker is faster and more energy-efficient than a traditional electric cooking surface. It allows instant control of cooking energy similar to gas burners. Other cooking methods use flames or red-hot heating elements; induction heating heats only the pot. Because the surface of the cook top is heated only by contact with the vessel, the possibility of burn injury is significantly less than with other methods. The induction effect does not directly heat the air around the vessel, resulting in further energy efficiencies. Cooling air is blown through the electronics but emerges only a little warmer than ambient temperature.

The magnetic properties of a steel vessel concentrate the induced current in a thin layer near its surface, which makes the heating effect stronger. In non-magnetic materials like aluminum, the magnetic field penetrates too far, and the induced current encounters little resistance in the metal.[1] At least one high-frequency "all metal" cooker is available, that works with lower efficiency on non-magnetic metal cookware.

During inspection, I try and run the clothes washing machine. This is mostly so that I can push water down the drain to test the waste piping system. Running the clothes washer during an inspection is not a reliable test of the appliance. I am not actually doing a load of laundry, so please note the limitations of this test.

TILE SHOWER NOTED

Please note that the longevity and reliability of the tile depend on what it is mounted on and what it is mounted with. This critical tile preparation is not visible to inspection. We make our best guesses about tile reliability using visual inspection and sounding for loose tiles. Moisture meters can also be used in some wall applications, but the moisture meter presents a false positive on most tile floors or pans. Regular tile cleaning and sealing can help prolong the life of a tile shower installation. Temporary repairs to tile can sometimes be made depending on how the tile was prepared and the owner's desire for a cosmetic appearance.

TILE SHOWER NOTED

Please note that the longevity and reliability of the tile depend on what it is mounted on and what it is mounted with. This critical tile preparation is not visible to inspection. We make our best guesses about tile reliability using visual inspection and sounding for loose tiles. Moisture meters can also be used in some wall applications, but the moisture meter presents a false positive on most tile floors or pans. Regular tile cleaning and sealing can help prolong the life of a tile shower installation. Temporary repairs to tile can sometimes be made depending on how the tile was prepared and the owner's desire for a cosmetic appearance.

TILE SHOWER NOTED

Please note that the longevity and reliability of the tile depend on what it is mounted on and what it is mounted with. This critical tile preparation is not visible to inspection. We make our best guesses about tile reliability using visual inspection and sounding for loose tiles. Moisture meters can also be used in some wall applications, but the moisture meter presents a false positive on most tile floors or pans. Regular tile cleaning and sealing can help prolong the life of a tile shower installation. Temporary repairs to tile can sometimes be made depending on how the tile was prepared and the owner's desire for a cosmetic appearance.

TILE SHOWER NOTED

Please note that the longevity and reliability of the tile depend on what it is mounted on and what it is mounted with. This critical tile preparation is not visible to inspection. We make our best guesses about tile reliability using visual inspection and sounding for loose tiles. Moisture meters can also be used in some wall applications, but the moisture meter presents a false positive on most tile floors or pans. Regular tile cleaning and sealing can help prolong the life of a tile shower installation. Temporary repairs to tile can sometimes be made depending on how the tile was prepared and the owner's desire for a cosmetic appearance.

Attic and roof cavity ventilation is a frequently misunderstood element of residential construction. All roof cavities are required to have ventilation. The general default standard is 1 to 150 of the attic area and ideally, this comes from at least 60% lower roof cavity ventilation and 40% upper, but this is an over-simplifications of the subject. As a good guiding principle the most important elements for healthy attic spaces, which are traditionally insulated and ventilated are:

1. Make sure the ceiling between the living space and the attic is airtight
2. Ventilate consistently across the whole lower part of the roof cavity with low, intake soffit venting
3. Upper roof cavity venting is less important and if over-installed can exacerbate air migration into the attic from the living space.
4. Avoid power ventilators which can depressurize the attic and exacerbate air migration from the house into the attic.

For more information, please see: Link

During inspection of the crawl space, every effort is made to inspect the entire space. Visual inspection of crawl spaces is difficult and limited as access is often restricted by pipes, ducts and sub-floor insulation as well as limited clearances.