The Scope and Purpose of a Home Inspection
Purchasing property involves risk
The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a structure by providing a professional opinion about the overall condition of the structure. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we don’t know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend that you attend the inspection.
A home inspection is not an insurance policy
This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Home warranties can be purchased separately from insuring firms that provide this service.
A home inspection is visual and not destructive
The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing which will limit the scope of the inspection.
This is not an inspection for code compliance
This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction process structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, and this limits the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are augmented at least every three years for all of the varying disciplines. Municipalities can choose to adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their own timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done.
This is just our opinion
Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are the opinions of the home inspector. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have some differing opinions. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals.
The scope of this inspection
This inspection will include the following systems: exterior, roof, structure, drainage, foundation, attic, interior, plumbing, electrical and heating. The evaluation will be based on limited observations that are primarily visual and non-invasive. This inspection and report are not intended to be technically exhaustive.
Your expectations
The overall goal of a home inspection is to help ensure that your expectations are appropriate with the house you are proposing to buy. To this end we assist with discovery by showing and documenting observations during the home inspection. This should not be mistaken for a technically exhaustive inspection designed to uncover every defect with a building. Such inspections are available but they are generally cost-prohibitive to most homebuyers.
Your participation is requested
Your presence is requested during this inspection. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by a shared visual observation of the conditions of the property.
How to Read This Report
Getting the Information to You
This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a quick look at our "Summary Page” and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos and hot links to additional information.
The best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online (the HTML version), which will allow you to expand your learning about your house. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined – clicking on these will provide you with a link to additional information. The HTML version of this report also contains streaming videos. Short video clips often contain important information and critical context and sounds that can be difficult to capture in words and still pictures.
For the most reliable viewing experience, I recommend viewing the report on as large a screen as practical, as much detail can be lost on small devices like smart phones. For similar reasons, reports should only be printed in color to retain as much detail as possible and minimize misinterpretation of photographs.
This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document.
Chapters and Sections
This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.
Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there may be no narrative observation comments in that section and it may simply say “tested,” or “inspected.”
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
- Major Concern:Repair items that may cost significant money to correct now or in the near future, or items that require immediate attention to prevent additional damage or eliminate safety hazards.
- Repair:Repair and maintenance items noted during inspection. Please note that some repair items can be expensive to correct such as re-finishing hardwood floors, but are considered simply repair items due to their cosmetic nature.
- Recommended Maintenance:These are repair items that should be considered "routine home ownership items," such as servicing the furnace, cleaning the gutters or changing the air filters in the furnace.
- Due Diligence:Observation such as a buried oil tank that may require further investigation to determine the severity and / or urgency of repair.
- Monitor:Items that should be watched to see if correction may be needed in the future.
- Improve or Upgrade:Observations that are not necessarily defects, but which could be improved for safety, efficiency, or reliability reasons. These are often items which reflect changes in building codes or standards.
- Efficiency:Denotes observations that are needed to make the home more energy efficient as well as to bring the home up to modern insulation standards. This category typically includes windows and insulation. Other items, such as lighting and appliances, are not inspected for their energy status.
- Inspection Notes:Aside information and /or comments elaborating on descriptions of systems in the home that the inspector might find useful to purchase decisions or home ownership. .
- Limitations:Conditions present at the time of inspection which limited the scope of this visual inspection
Pest Inspection
All items with the bug logo (
) are part of a structural pest inspection. If your inspector included a structural pest inspection as a part of the scope of your home inspection, you can distinguish pest inspection items by this logo. You can also go to the pest inspection summary page to see a summary of the items that are part of a pest inspection.
Summary Page
The Summary Page is designed as a bulleted overview of all the observations noted during inspection. This helpful overview is not a substitution for reading the entire inspection report. The entire report must be read to get a complete understanding of this inspection report as the Summary Page does not include photographs or photo captions.
Moisture Meter Testing
Where moisture meter testing is indicated in this report a Protimiter Survey Master Dual Function was used.
Summary
Major Concerns
- E-1 Exterior:
A PLAN IS NEEDED FOR THE EXTERIOR ENVELOPE
Overall, a cohesive plan is needed for the exterior envelope of this building. The siding, decks, windows and gutter systems all require repair or updating. I would consider siding replacement on several sides of the building- see the entry side. I would also consider at least some window updating with lower-maintenance vinyl windows. The scope and extent for some exterior updates is subjective but there are some urgently needed repairs to this exterior. Examples of observations and red flags found during inspection today include:
- Localized wood decay in the garage door trim
- Fairly extensive wood decay noted in the inside corner by the garage
- The metal flashing at the base of the siding near the garage is not sloped to drain. This is causing wood decay in the base of the siding.
- Paint failure was noted on the exposed south facing siding
- Missing siding noted at the entry porch
- Damaged siding noted below the hose bib at the entry
- Paint failure noted on exposed south facing wood windows
- The flashings at the base trim have reverse slope. This is causing wood decay in the base of the siding
- Inadequate kick out flashing noted at roof to wall junctures
- Localized wood decay noted in the wood siding above the windows at the west face
- Wood decay and paint failure - west kitchen window
- Localized wood decay noted where the siding is in decking contact at the back deck
- Localized wood decay in the fascia at the inside corner by the entry
- The siding on the exposed chimney chase is in poor condition
- The neighbors appeared to have updated fiber cement siding on some faces of the building as well as a newer roofing system.
- Inadequate clearances between siding and roofing.
- Loose window hardware noted on some of the interiors of the windows.
- A lost seal was noted in the window glass at the south facing entry side of the building
Recommendation
Hire a qualified general contractor to further evaluate this exterior envelope and make repairs as recommended to ensure reliable performance.
- DPB-1 Decks, Porches and Balconies:
DECK REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT NEEDED
Repairs are needed to the decks on this building. Options include a full re-building or implementing repairs as deemed feasible to prolong the safe useful life of the deck. Examples of specific observations noted during the inspection include:
- Settlement was noted in the entry stairs. I would consider rebuilding where exposed to the weather.
- Inadequate support and slippery decking noted at the back deck stairs
- The back deck is very slippery and needs to be cleaned and re-stained.
Recommendation
Hire a qualified general; contractor to further evaluate and repair or replace the decking systems as needed.
- DB-3 Downstairs Bathroom:
WATER DAMAGED FINISHES IN BATHROOM
Water damaged finishes were noted around the bath tub in the downstairs bath. This is often caused by occupant behavior. The shower head seams to be spraying at the back wall and water must be seeping around the door. This condition risks concealed water damage.
Recommendation
Hire a qualified general contractor to further evaluate and repair water damage as needed.
- CS-1 Crawl Space:
CRAWL SPACE CLEAN-UP
Overall, numerous repairs are needed to the crawl space below this building. I have made a series of detailed observations in this observations but given the extent of repairs I recommend further evaluation of this crawl space by a licensed general contractor who specializes in crawl space clean-up as additional repairs could be needed that are latent or concealed.
Examples of Observations Noted During Inspection Include
- The plastic vapor barrier is incomplete in places
- The sub-floor insulation is rodent-damaged and requires repair and replacement
- The sub-floor insulation is missing in places and requires tune-up repairs
- The access hatch on the interior could use insulation
- The plastic vapor barrier has slid of of position in places and requires adjustment
- Wood debris needs to be removed from the crawl space
- Moderate water was noted in the crawl space indicating a qualified contractor is needed to diagnose and repair drainage problems
Repairs
- G1-1 Grounds:
POOR GRADE NOTED - ENTRY WALKWAY
The walkway is sloping toward the building. This will cause water to drain toward the building and could lead to moisture control problems. Repair or replace the hardscape as needed so that it is graded away from the building.- a good rule of thumb is a minimum 1/4-inch/ foot slope away from the building.
- E-2 Exterior:
DAMAGED DOOR SWEEP
Repair the damaged sweep at the exterior door. The sweep is the weather strip material below the door that helps prevent wind-driven rain and air from leaking under the door.
- Damaged weather strip noted at the back deck door
- G-1 Garage:
REPAIR OPENINGS IN GARAGE FINISHES
Several unprotected openings were found in the garage wall fire separation. This should be repaired to complete the fire separation. Standards recommend complete sheetrock walls and ceilings between the garage and all habitable space. Use type C or type X sheetrock as needed to complete large openings in the fire separation and seal up all small gaps in the walls with fire stop caulking or drywall mud as needed.
- Openings were noted in the garage sheetrock. These constitute breaches in the fire separation
- Openings were noted around the overhead garage door opener
- Access to the water pipe bonding connection is missing a cover plate in the garage
- G-3 Garage:
DAMAGED LIGHT COVER FOR OVERHEAD DOOR
Replace the damaged/melted cover for the overhead door opener and use a low-wattage bulb to prevent overheating.
- G-4 Garage:
DELAMINATING GARAGE DOOR
The wood overhead garage door is old and delaminating / rotting and is close to the end of its useful service life. While repair is likely possible, updating this door is recommended. Consult with a qualified contractor about options for updating this overhead door.
- RCG-1 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:
ROOF REPAIRS RECOMMENDED
The roofing material on this building is done in an architectural-grade composition shingle. These shingles are often rated as 25-30 year shingles, though I find in practice, as a roof assembly, 18-22 years is more realistic depending on the quality of the installation, the amount of exposure, and the pitch of the roof. Please note that roofs are not a shingle, they are an assembly, and they require regular maintenance to keep them performing reliably. Examples of specific observations noted during the inspection include:
- Heavy moss and organic debris buildup noted on the north face of the roof
- Heavy moss and organic debris build up noted at the valley on the back side of the building
- Shingles are showing signs of age as granule loss was noted in multiple places
Recommendation
Hire a licensed roofing contractor to further evaluate and repair the roof as recommended to ensure reliable performance. Treat and remove organic debris as needed to ensure reliable drain paths.
- RCG-2 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:
GUTTER AND DOWNSPOUT REPAIRS
The gutters and downspouts require repairs to ensure reliable performance. Gutter and downspout systems are critical for controlling roof runoff and preventing water from damaging the building. Regular gutter care is needed to keep this system working reliably, especially keeping gutters clean, well-secured, and draining away from the structure. Implement gutter and downspout repairs as needed. Examples of specific observations noted during the inspection include:
- The gutters are clogged with organic debris and require cleaning. They also require localized seal-up repairs.
- EDF-1 Electric Distribution and Finish:
GFCI's WIRED IN SERIES
Several GFCI-protected breakers were noted to be wired in series - see the exterior west side and 2nd floor bathroom. This is not a safety hazard, but it is a non-standard installation and can be confusing when going to re-set breakers, as re-set buttons will not re-set if another GFCI is tripped on the same circuit. Have this further investigated and repaired by a licensed electrician.
- EDF-4 Electric Distribution and Finish:
SMOKE ALARMS NOT USING HARDWIRING
The smoke alarms installed are newer, but they are not using the wiring provided and are just battery operated. If wiring is present, smoke and carbon monoxide alarms should use the hardwiring with battery back-up. This may necessitate changing the wiring termination so it fits the modern alarms. Consult with a licensed electrical contractor about options for repairs.
- EDF-6 Electric Distribution and Finish:
SOME ALARMS INCOMPLETE
Modern standards recommend smoke alarms in all bedrooms, in all hallways outside bedrooms and at least one on each floor of the building. At the time of inspection smoke alarms were incomplete in the bedrooms.
- WH-2 Water Heaters:
WATER HEATER SEISMIC RESTRAINTS
Install listed seismic straps to restrain the water heater in the event of an earthquake; none were noted during inspection. Two straps should be located on the water heater: one on upper 1/3rd of tank and one at the lower 1/3rd.
- WH-3 Water Heaters:
NO DRAIN PAN FOR WATER HEATER
No drain pan has been installed below the water heater here. A drain pan is recommended under water heaters that are located in finished spaces or where a leak could damage finishes. Where a pan does not already exist, the tricky part is providing a drain to the outside. A pan without a drain is often of limited benefit / protection. For improved protection from accidental water heater leaks, and where a drain is difficult to install, consider a pan with a moisture alarm and a flood-safe device such as this: Watts Water Heater Leak Prevention.
- WH-5 Water Heaters:
WATER HEATER RELIEF VALVE
The discharge tube for the water heater temperature and pressure relief valve (TPRV) is plumbed using a corrugated supply connector. Though this is common, this restricts the diameter of the opening and is unsafe and not recommended - see attached link. Ideally, the discharge tube for a relief valve:
- Terminates to an exterior location or above a drain, though this is not always possible
- Terminates between 6 and 24-inches off the ground (UPC)
- Slopes to drain to prevent water pooling inside the discharge tube
- Is not made from pipe with an inside diameter less than 3/4 on an inch
- Terminates to a visible location that can be monitored for leaks and discharges
- Does not have a threaded termination point which would prevent accidental capping of this important discharge
- Does not terminate into a drain pan
Recommendation
Have this relief valve discharge tube further investigated and repaired as recommended by a licensed plumber.
- K-6 Kitchen:
INSTA-HOT IS UNPLUGGED
The Insta-hot appliance below the kitchen sink is unplugged. I was unable to test this as I do not like to plug things in that have been unplugged as I do not know why they were unplugged and this could have been done for safety reasons. Inquire with the tenant for additional information and have this made operable as needed.
- LF-3 Laundry Facilities:
CORRUGATED DRYER EXHAUST VENT IN A CONCEALED SPACE
The dryer exhaust duct is done in a corrugated vent pipe. This is not recommended as the corrugations can trap lint which can become a fire hazard. Some types of corrugated vent pipe can be used for the transition duct directly behind the dryer, but in concealed spaces such as behind walls, in attics, and in crawl spaces, corrugated exhaust vent pipe is not recommended. I recommend additional inspection and repair of this dryer exhaust vent by a qualified contractor. Use smooth wall metal pipe only, and if the exhaust duct is run outside the thermal envelope, the exhaust duct should be insulated to reduce risks of condensation.
- A-2 Attic:
INSULATE ATTIC ACCESS HATCH
The attic access hatch requires insulation and weather stripping to prevent heat loss and heat migration into the attic.
- CS-2 Crawl Space:
AIR SEAL AND INSULATE CRAWL SPACE ACCESS
The crawl space access hatch should be insulated and weather-stripped to prevent heat loss and air leakage.
Recommended Maintenance
- G1-3 Grounds:
TREE AND VEGETATION PRUNING
Pruning trees, branches and vegetation away from the building is recommended. Where trees, branches and large shrubs can provide rodent access to the roof, a minimum 6-foot clearance is recommended as many rodents can jump 6-feet. All vegetation, including smaller landscaping such as grasses, flowers and shrubs should be kept 1-foot off the house to eliminate contact which could trap moisture against the building.
- G-2 Garage:
AUTO-CLOSE HINGES FOR GARAGE OCCUPANT DOOR
The auto-close hinges on the garage occupant door have been disabled. This safety device is recommended to ensure the door is closed to keep pollutants and even fire from spreading into the house. Repair as needed.
- EDF-3 Electric Distribution and Finish:
GFCI PROTECTION RECOMMENDED
Since the 1970s, requirements for GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) protection have changed, and locations requiring GFCI protection seem to get added with every code cycle. It is common for older residential buildings to have some or even many electric receptacles that do not meet modern safety standards. GFCIs have proven successful at reducing electrocutions, and it seems likely that someday, every circuit, receptacle, and appliance in the building will require GFCI protection. The first chart below shows how successful GFCIs have been at reducing risks from electrocution. The second illustration shows where GFCI protection is required as of the 2020 NEC and WAC. As a general best practice for safety. For improved safety, I always recommend bringing GFCI protection up to modern safety standards.
During inspection today, I noted that GFCI protection is inconsistent with modern minimum standards for safety in the following locations:
- GFCI protection is incomplete for kitchen countertop receptacles
- No GFCI protection noted for the laundry
- HCFV-1 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
CLEAN THE ELECTRIC HEATERS
The electric wall heaters are dirty and require cleaning - several of the heaters were smelling of burning dust during operation. Best practices are to turn power off to the heater and use compressed air to clean the dust from the heating elements. The fan blades can be wiped or vacuumed as needed then restore power. Many manufacturers of these heaters recommend cleaning every six months to prevent a fire hazard. They also recommend keeping all electric cords, curtains and furniture at least three feet from the heater.
- WH-4 Water Heaters:
NO THERMAL EXPANSION DEVICE
No thermal expansion device was found for the water heating system. Some type of thermal expansion device is required for closed plumbing systems. This is typically provided by an expansion tank at the water heater. Thermal expansion devices help prevent unwanted pressure build-up in piping systems.
- WH-6 Water Heaters:
WATER TESTED HOT
Testing of the plumbing system today, the water tested as too hot - 129 degrees F. This is a scald hazard. To prevent scalding, standards recommend indoor hot water temperatures do not exceed 120 degrees. There is some evidence that hot water temperatures should be greater than 130 degrees to prevent Legionnaires' disease from developing in the water heater. If this is a concern, you can heat the water in the tank to 140 degrees F and have a tempering valve installed at the hot water tank. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a licensed plumber, or simply turn down the temperature as desired to eliminate a scald hazard. Please note that during the inspection, it is difficult to accurately test the water temperature as it can vary between fixtures. Testing is done in multiple locations during the inspection, and a median temperature is taken.
- I-1 Interior:
OLDER CARPETING
The wall-to-wall carpeting is older and showing signs of age, indicating it may require updating soon. The urgency of updating depends on your desire for cosmetic appearance. See the attached photos showing localized staining and damage.
- K-2 Kitchen:
CABINET REPAIRS
Tune-up repairs are needed to the kitchen cabinets. Repair as desired. Examples of observations noted during inspection include:
- Cabinet finishes are worn and some loose hardware was noted.
- DB-2 Downstairs Bathroom:
UPDATE BATHROOM SOON
With the exception of any comments listed above, this family bathroom was in serviceable condition. However, the finishes and fixtures are old and will be increasingly unreliable. Updating / remodeling this bathroom would be a logical improvement in the near term. The urgency of updating will depend on how often this bathroom is to be used and personal desired for reliability and cosmetic appearance.
- A-5 Attic:
INCOMPLETE SOFFIT VENTING
The soffit venting on this house appears to be incomplete. This is common on older houses that often had wood roofs, or were simply built prior to requirements for insulation and ventilation as done today. It can be complex to know the urgency of repair. This is how many old homes were constructed, but as we improve insulation levels, it is wise to improve a corresponding amount of roof cavity ventilation to reduce risks from seasonal condensation and too keep the attic space cool. Consult with a qualified general contractor about installing soffit venting or lower, "intake" vents for the roof cavity / attic space.
Due Diligence Items
- GC-1 General Comments:
OLD BUILDINGS AND LEAD AND ASBESTOS
In 1978, federal laws were passed to prohibit use of lead and asbestos in building materials. Manufacturers of building materials were allowed to sell existing stocks of materials that were manufactured with lead and asbestos, so even buildings constructed as late as the mid-1980's could possibly contain lead or asbestos. Identification and testing for lead and asbestos and other environmental testing is beyond the scope of this home inspection. If you wish to seek additional information, I recommend contacting an environmental lab or industrial hygienist.
- EDF-2 Electric Distribution and Finish:
BUILT-IN MICROWAVE ON COUNTERTOP CIRCUIT
A built-in microwave has been installed on one of the kitchen countertop circuits. This is OK if the microwave is under 10 amps. The general rule of thumb is not more that 50% of the rating of the circuit. Usually these are 20 amp circuits. Larger microwaves on shared circuits can lead to overheating. I recommend reviewing the owners manual to verify.
- P-2 Plumbing:
VIDEO SEWER SCOPE RECOMMENDED
An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. A sewer scope is recommended to further evaluate the sewer line and the below ground connections between the house and the municipal sewer line as these are not visible to inspection. Sewer scopes are done using video cameras and can show the materials, condition and reliability of the sewer line. If a video scope has not been done recently, I recommend having a sewer scope performed.
- A-3 Attic:
EVIDENCE OF MINOR ATTIC CONDENSATION PROBLEMS NOTED
Stains were noted on the roof decking material when viewed from the attic. This indicates the attic has experienced prior condensation problems during the cold weather months. Generally, the way to prevent seasonal condensation in an attic involves a 4-pronged approach:
1. Air seal the ceiling as is feasible to slow air migration from the interior into the attic.
2. Be sure all bath and kitchen fans in the attic are well-sealed and venting to the exterior.
3. Keep indoor relative humidity below 55% during cold-weather months
4. Make sure the roof cavity / attic spaces are correctly ventilated.
Options for handling this include:
- Implement the cheapest and most obvious repairs and monitor during cold weather to make sure the space is staying dry and take additional corrective action only if needed
- Have it further investigated by a mold remediation or building performance contractor.
It is difficult to gauge during a one time inspection the degree to which this is an older or intermittent problem. Attic condensation problems can be seasonal and related to occupant behavior and even drainage. This makes it difficult to make an accurate recommendation for corrective action as it can take time to determine a practical scope and urgency for repair. For more information about roof condensation problems, please see the attached hot link above. Observations noted during inspection include:
- Minor staining noted in a few spots at the upper roof access
- Staining adjacent to the skylight indicates some air leakage from the skylight
- RPWDO-1 Rodents, Pests and Wood Destroying Organisms:
ANT BAITS FOUND
An ant trap was found in the bathroom. These are common traps from the hardware store and often used for "sugar ants," or odorous house ants. Inquire with the tenant for any history of ant problems or treatments.
Items for Monitoring
- WH-1 Water Heaters:
OLDER WATER HEATER
This water heater is likely close to the end of its useful service life. The average life of a water heater is statistically 8-12 years though in practice, they can vary widely between 8-20 years depending on water quality and maintenance schedule such as frequency of flushing the tank and replacing sacrificial anodes. Budget to replace this water heater at any time. Water was hot at the time of inspection.
Improve Or Upgrade Items
- RCG-3 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:
UPPER DOWNSPOUTS DRAIN ONTO LOWER ROOF
Several of the downspouts on the upper gutter system are terminating onto the lower roof. This is industry standard practice but it will prematurely deteriorate the roofing shingles in these locations and it is not recommended by many shingle manufacturers. I recommend extending the downspouts into lower gutters to better protect the roof.
- ES-1 Electric Service:
IMPROVED CONDUCTOR IDENTIFICATION RECOMMENDED
The white conductors inside the electric panel at the breakers are not correctly identified as hot or ungrounded conductors - these should be painted in black or red ink for correct identification and improved safety. I would do this in the context of other electrical repairs or upgrades.
- HCFV-4 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
MECHANICAL VENTILATION
This building has no provisions for automatic mechanical ventilation - I did not find a 24 hour timer for a fan anywhere - typical for a building of this age. Installing a bath or laundry fan on a 24 hour timer is recommended to ensure mechanical air changes. This can help keep relative humidity in check. As a general rule, keep relative humidity below 55% in cold weather to reduce chances for condensation. You can monitor relative humidity with inexpensive temperature and relative humidity gauges. For a nice fan system I recommend looking at Panasonic Whisper Green fans - these do not rely on a timer and run continuously to facilitate air changes. Panasonic Fans Website
✒️ - A nice quite new fan on a timer in the laundry would be a great way to help control indoor humidity.
- K-3 Kitchen:
DUCTLESS KITCHEN COOKTOP EXHAUST FAN NOTED
A ductless exhaust fan was noted for the cooktop. Installation of a fan that ducts to the exterior is recommended to remove moist air and odors to the exterior. Please note that if you switch to a gas range or cooktop in the future, a fan that vents to the exterior is still not required, as long as there is some ventilation in the kitchen, but it is more strongly recommended. Gas ovens produce carbon monoxide while running and should have an exhaust vent to the exterior.
✒
- In modern construction, all kitchens require some form of mechanical ventilation but modern buildings are generally much tighter and have more precise requirements for mechanical ventilation. It was common for older kitchens to have fans that do not vent to the exterior.
- LF-2 Laundry Facilities:
MOISTURE ALARM RECOMMENDED
A moisture alarm with water shut-off features is recommended under the washing machine to protect against accidental leaks in the supply hoses. Pans can be effective when there is a drain, but even these will not protect against a burst supply connector. A moisture alarm with automatic shut-off will. Watts is a brand I have seen installed: Link.
Efficiency Items
- HCFV-2 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
CONSIDER A DUCTLESS HEAT PUMP
Consider upgrading the heating system by installing a ductless mini-split heat pump - this system will be 3-4 times more efficient than the electric boiler. This type of heating system is also much safer as it does not pose the fire and burn hazards of conventional electric heaters. Ductless heat pumps will also have the benefit of cooling. Sample Brochure.
- A-4 Attic:
OLD ATTIC INSULATION
The attic insulation could be improved to modern standards, which recommend R-49 on the floor and R-21 on the walls. R-value is the measure of resistance to heat loss; the higher the R-value, the better the insulation. During insulation repairs, it is best practice to implement any air seal-up repairs to seal air leakage. Also, be sure you have completed any wiring or other projects needed in the attic. Then, hire an insulation contractor to improve thermal barriers.
📸 THE COMPLETE REPORT
Grounds
Drainage and Site
Window and Stairwells
Driveways/Walkways/Flatwork
Grounds, Trees and Vegetation
Exterior Stairs
Retaining Walls
Fences
Outbuildings, Trellises, Storage Sheds, Barns
Exterior
Siding and Trim
Exterior Vent and Exhaust Terminations
Eaves
Exterior Doors
Exterior Window Frames
Decks, Porches and Balconies
Wood Decks Porches and Balconies
Concrete Decks, Stoops, Landings and Porches
Water-Resistant Decks and Balconies
Electric Service
Electric Service Voltage Tested
Electric Service
Electric Service Equipment
Generator Equipment
Appliance Disconnects
Electrical Grounding System
Electrical Bonding System
Electric Distribution and Finish
Branch Wiring
Receptacles and Fixtures
Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm Systems
Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation
Heating Systems
Vents and Flues
Air Filters
Cooling Systems and Heat Pumps
Heating and Cooling Distribution Systems
Mechanical Ventilation Systems
Gas Fireplaces
Solid Fuel Fireplaces
Plumbing
Water Service Supply
Distribution Pipe
Waste Pipe and Discharge
Exterior Hose Bibs
Sump Pumps and Drains
Sewage Ejector Pumps
Interior
Floors and Floor Materials
Walls, Ceilings, Trim, Hallways and Closets
Wall Insulation and Air Bypass
Stairs and Railings
Interior Doors
Windows
Kitchen
General Kitchen Photos
Sinks and Faucets
Cabinets and Countertops
Disposers
Dishwasher
Ventilation Method
Ranges, Ovens and Cooktops
Refrigerators
General Appliances
General Kitchen Condition
Downstairs Bathroom
General Bathroom Photos
Sinks and Cabinets
Toilet
Bathtub / Shower
Bathroom Ventilation
General Bath
Hall Bathroom
General Bathroom Photos
Sinks and Cabinets
Toilet
Bathtub / Shower
Bathroom Ventilation
General Bath
Attic
Attic Access
Roof Framing and Sheathing
Fire Separation and Fire Blocking
Attic Insulation
Attic and Roof Cavity Ventilation
General Comments
Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations
Type of Building : Single Family (2-story)
Approximate Square Footage: 1400
The approximate square footage listed here is listed as a courtesy and is based off of public records and disclosure. An evaluation of square footage of the buildings and property lines is beyond the scope of this inspection.
Approximate Year of Original Construction: 1986
Unless the wiring in the building has been fully updated, this building likely has wiring that predates the late 1980's. Branch circuit wiring installed in buildings built prior to the late 1980's is typically rated for a maximum temperature of only 60 degrees Celsius. This includes non-metallic sheathed (Romex) wiring, and both BX and AC metal-clad flexible wiring. Knob and tube wiring, typically installed in homes built prior to 1950, may be rated for even lower maximum temperatures. Newer electric fixtures including lighting and fans typically require wiring rated for 90 degrees Celsius. Connecting newer fixtures to older, 60-degree-rated wiring is a potential fire hazard. Repairs for such conditions may involve replacing the last few feet of wiring to newer fixtures with new 90-degree-rated wire, and installing a junction box to join the old and new wiring. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if any such incompatible components are installed. Based on the age of this building, be aware that such components may be present.
Attending the Inspection: Owner
Occupancy: Occupied
Animals Present: No
Weather during the inspection: Cloudy, Light Rain
Approximate temperature during the inspection: Below 60[F]
Ground/Soil surface conditions: Damp
For the Purposes of This Report, the Front Door Faces: East
OLD BUILDINGS AND LEAD AND ASBESTOS
In 1978, federal laws were passed to prohibit use of lead and asbestos in building materials. Manufacturers of building materials were allowed to sell existing stocks of materials that were manufactured with lead and asbestos, so even buildings constructed as late as the mid-1980's could possibly contain lead or asbestos. Identification and testing for lead and asbestos and other environmental testing is beyond the scope of this home inspection. If you wish to seek additional information, I recommend contacting an environmental lab or industrial hygienist.
This home was occupied at the time of the inspection. Inspection of occupied homes presents some challenges as occupant belongings can obstruct visual inspection of and access to parts of the building. We do our best during inspection to work around belongings to discover as much as possible about the house without moving or damaging personal property, however, the presence of personal items does limit the inspection.
Grounds
Drainage and Site
Clearance to Grade: Standard, Non-standard
Downspout Discharge: Below grade
Site Description: Moderate slope
Window and Stairwells
None Noted
Driveways/Walkways/Flatwork
Driveway: Asphalt
Walkways: Concrete
Patios: None noted
POOR GRADE NOTED - ENTRY WALKWAY
The walkway is sloping toward the building. This will cause water to drain toward the building and could lead to moisture control problems. Repair or replace the hardscape as needed so that it is graded away from the building.- a good rule of thumb is a minimum 1/4-inch/ foot slope away from the building.
Grounds, Trees and Vegetation
Trees/Vegetation too near building: No
TREE AND VEGETATION PRUNING
Pruning trees, branches and vegetation away from the building is recommended. Where trees, branches and large shrubs can provide rodent access to the roof, a minimum 6-foot clearance is recommended as many rodents can jump 6-feet. All vegetation, including smaller landscaping such as grasses, flowers and shrubs should be kept 1-foot off the house to eliminate contact which could trap moisture against the building.
Rodent bait stations were noted at the exterior of the building.
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Exterior Stairs
Exterior Stairs: Non-standard
Retaining Walls
Retaining Wall Material: None Noted
Fences
Exterior Fencing: Partial fencing noted
The property has a fencing system in place. Inspection and evaluation of fencing is beyond the scope of a home inspection. If the fencing system is important for your use of this property, I recommended a self-examination to see how it will meet your needs. I may make cursory comments about fencing as a courtesy.
Outbuildings, Trellises, Storage Sheds, Barns
None noted
Exterior
Siding and Trim
Trim Material: Wood
Siding Material: Beveled cedar, Shiplap
This house has a beveled cedar siding system, often sold as, "tight knot," cedar. This is a quality wood siding product. Where exposed to direct sunlight, such as on south and west faces, this siding can dry out and suffer from cupping and splitting. Regular staining on the sun-exposed sides of the building can slow this process. It is typical to need to do more maintenance such as staining and caulking at sun-exposed faces of the building. Refrain from nailing cupping siding down as this can split the siding.
A PLAN IS NEEDED FOR THE EXTERIOR ENVELOPE
Overall, a cohesive plan is needed for the exterior envelope of this building. The siding, decks, windows and gutter systems all require repair or updating. I would consider siding replacement on several sides of the building- see the entry side. I would also consider at least some window updating with lower-maintenance vinyl windows. The scope and extent for some exterior updates is subjective but there are some urgently needed repairs to this exterior. Examples of observations and red flags found during inspection today include:
- Localized wood decay in the garage door trim
- Fairly extensive wood decay noted in the inside corner by the garage
- The metal flashing at the base of the siding near the garage is not sloped to drain. This is causing wood decay in the base of the siding.
- Paint failure was noted on the exposed south facing siding
- Missing siding noted at the entry porch
- Damaged siding noted below the hose bib at the entry
- Paint failure noted on exposed south facing wood windows
- The flashings at the base trim have reverse slope. This is causing wood decay in the base of the siding
- Inadequate kick out flashing noted at roof to wall junctures
- Localized wood decay noted in the wood siding above the windows at the west face
- Wood decay and paint failure - west kitchen window
- Localized wood decay noted where the siding is in decking contact at the back deck
- Localized wood decay in the fascia at the inside corner by the entry
- The siding on the exposed chimney chase is in poor condition
- The neighbors appeared to have updated fiber cement siding on some faces of the building as well as a newer roofing system.
- Inadequate clearances between siding and roofing.
- Loose window hardware noted on some of the interiors of the windows.
- A lost seal was noted in the window glass at the south facing entry side of the building
Recommendation
Hire a qualified general contractor to further evaluate this exterior envelope and make repairs as recommended to ensure reliable performance.
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Exterior Vent and Exhaust Terminations
Exterior Siding and Vent Terminations: None noted
Eaves
None
Exterior Doors
Exterior Door Styles: Solid core
DAMAGED DOOR SWEEP
Repair the damaged sweep at the exterior door. The sweep is the weather strip material below the door that helps prevent wind-driven rain and air from leaking under the door.
- Damaged weather strip noted at the back deck door
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Exterior Window Frames
Window Frames: Wood
Decks, Porches and Balconies
Wood Decks Porches and Balconies
Present
To see a prescriptive guide for residential wood deck construction click this link:
Structure: Not visible
Ledger Board: Not visible
Guardrail: None needed
Decking Material: Softwood
This house has cedar softwood decking installed. The recommended maintenance of this type of decking is annual cleaning and staining with transparent or semi-transparent deck stain. It is common to use decking paints when the decking is older and in the last phase of its useful life, however, painting is not recommended as this can trap moisture in the wood, facilitate wood decay and lead to higher maintenance costs when prepping peeling paint. Annual cleaning and sealing is important to prevent the deck from becoming slippery and unsafe, especially as pollen organic growth accumulate on the decking.
Posts, Beams and Footings: Not Fully Visible
DECK REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT NEEDED
Repairs are needed to the decks on this building. Options include a full re-building or implementing repairs as deemed feasible to prolong the safe useful life of the deck. Examples of specific observations noted during the inspection include:
- Settlement was noted in the entry stairs. I would consider rebuilding where exposed to the weather.
- Inadequate support and slippery decking noted at the back deck stairs
- The back deck is very slippery and needs to be cleaned and re-stained.
Recommendation
Hire a qualified general; contractor to further evaluate and repair or replace the decking systems as needed.
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Concrete Decks, Stoops, Landings and Porches
Concrete Structure: None noted
Water-Resistant Decks and Balconies
Water Proof Surfaces: None Noted
Garage
Garage General
Garage Type: Attached
REPAIR OPENINGS IN GARAGE FINISHES
Several unprotected openings were found in the garage wall fire separation. This should be repaired to complete the fire separation. Standards recommend complete sheetrock walls and ceilings between the garage and all habitable space. Use type C or type X sheetrock as needed to complete large openings in the fire separation and seal up all small gaps in the walls with fire stop caulking or drywall mud as needed.
- Openings were noted in the garage sheetrock. These constitute breaches in the fire separation
- Openings were noted around the overhead garage door opener
- Access to the water pipe bonding connection is missing a cover plate in the garage
Garage Doors and Automatic Openers
Overhead Garage Door Type: Wood
Automatic Garage Opener: Service Sticker Noted
This shows a record of who has serviced or installed the automatic garage door opener in the past.
Garage Occupant Door: Fire Rated, Hinges Disabled
DAMAGED LIGHT COVER FOR OVERHEAD DOOR
Replace the damaged/melted cover for the overhead door opener and use a low-wattage bulb to prevent overheating.
DELAMINATING GARAGE DOOR
The wood overhead garage door is old and delaminating / rotting and is close to the end of its useful service life. While repair is likely possible, updating this door is recommended. Consult with a qualified contractor about options for updating this overhead door.
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AUTO-CLOSE HINGES FOR GARAGE OCCUPANT DOOR
The auto-close hinges on the garage occupant door have been disabled. This safety device is recommended to ensure the door is closed to keep pollutants and even fire from spreading into the house. Repair as needed.
Garage Floor
Garage Slab: Concrete, Not Visible - Storage Obstructed View
Personal belongings and storage were obstructing a full view of the concrete garage floor.
Vehicle Chargers
None noted
Roof, Chimney and Gutters
Roof Materials
Method of Roof Inspection: Walked on roof
Roof Style: Gable, Shed
Flashings, Valleys and Penetrations: Present and Visually Standard
Roof flashings are used to keep a roofing system waterproof where the roofing material starts, stops, changes direction, or is penetrated. During the inspection, we look for standard flashing techniques that could be considered normal or standard in our region. Damaged, incomplete or non-standard flashings can be a sign of an older or less reliable roofing system and may require repair. Any non-standard flashings noted during the inspection will be reported below if found.
Roof Covering Materials: Architectural grade composition shingle
Approximate Age of Roof Covering: 15-20 Years
Overlay Roof: No
Shingle Fastening Accessible For Inspection : No
Please note that when inspecting composition roof installations, I try and look under shingles to see how the shingles have been fastened. Proper fastening is critical for successful roof performance. Often the shingles are bonding so well, they cannot be lifted to inspect the fastening. In this case, I was unable to lift the shingles and see the fastening pattern - they are bonded well and I do not use a flat bar to pry them apart as part of a visual inspection unless there is a reason to start chasing visible leaks. While this limits my visual inspection, this is a good sign, as loose, un-bonded shingles can lead to wind damage and would be written up as a defect.
ROOF REPAIRS RECOMMENDED
The roofing material on this building is done in an architectural-grade composition shingle. These shingles are often rated as 25-30 year shingles, though I find in practice, as a roof assembly, 18-22 years is more realistic depending on the quality of the installation, the amount of exposure, and the pitch of the roof. Please note that roofs are not a shingle, they are an assembly, and they require regular maintenance to keep them performing reliably. Examples of specific observations noted during the inspection include:
- Heavy moss and organic debris buildup noted on the north face of the roof
- Heavy moss and organic debris build up noted at the valley on the back side of the building
- Shingles are showing signs of age as granule loss was noted in multiple places
Recommendation
Hire a licensed roofing contractor to further evaluate and repair the roof as recommended to ensure reliable performance. Treat and remove organic debris as needed to ensure reliable drain paths.
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Chimneys
Present
Chimney Material: Metal below siding
Chimney Flue Liners: Not visible, Present
Skylights
Insulated curb style
Gutters and Downspouts
Gutter and Downspout Materials: Seamless Aluminum
GUTTER AND DOWNSPOUT REPAIRS
The gutters and downspouts require repairs to ensure reliable performance. Gutter and downspout systems are critical for controlling roof runoff and preventing water from damaging the building. Regular gutter care is needed to keep this system working reliably, especially keeping gutters clean, well-secured, and draining away from the structure. Implement gutter and downspout repairs as needed. Examples of specific observations noted during the inspection include:
- The gutters are clogged with organic debris and require cleaning. They also require localized seal-up repairs.
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UPPER DOWNSPOUTS DRAIN ONTO LOWER ROOF
Several of the downspouts on the upper gutter system are terminating onto the lower roof. This is industry standard practice but it will prematurely deteriorate the roofing shingles in these locations and it is not recommended by many shingle manufacturers. I recommend extending the downspouts into lower gutters to better protect the roof.
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Fuel Storage and Distribution
Oil Storage
None noted
Propane Storage
Present, Leased Tank Sticker Noted
The propane tank might be a leased tank. A sticker for Northwest Propane was noted: 866-470-3396 indicates they may be the owners of the tank. Consult with this company for lease information and filling terms and prices.
Storage Type: Above ground tank
Propane Tank Size: 120 gallons
Propane Tank Location: West side of building
Propane Shutoff Location: At tank
This shows the propane shutoff at the propane tank.
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Gas Meter
None noted
Gas, Propane and Oil Piping
Gas Piping Materials Noted: Steel
Electric Service
Electric Service Voltage Tested
Service Voltage: 120/240 - With Testing Note
I tested the voltage at the electric panel today. It tested in a normal range of 235-245 volts. Most residential construction is listed as 120/240 volts. Slight fluctuation is normal.
Electric Service
Service Entrance: Below Ground
Meter Base Amperage: 200
Electric Service Equipment
Service Entrance (SE) conductor Size: Aluminum, 4/0, 200 amps
Main Panel Amperage: 200 amps
Electric Service Amperage: 200 amps
Main Electric Panel Location: Garage
Panel Manufacturer: Square D
IMPROVED CONDUCTOR IDENTIFICATION RECOMMENDED
The white conductors inside the electric panel at the breakers are not correctly identified as hot or ungrounded conductors - these should be painted in black or red ink for correct identification and improved safety. I would do this in the context of other electrical repairs or upgrades.
MODERN AFCI PROTECTION IS A SAFETY IMPROVEMENT
AFCI (arc fault protection) is now required on all branch circuits supplying outlets or devices installed in residential dwelling unit kitchens, family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, laundry areas, and similar rooms and areas. The goal of this protection is to reduce risks of electrical fires. Consult with a licensed electrician about improving circuit protection as desired. I would consider this improvement in the context of other electrical repairs or upgrades. Please note that if you add or replace receptacle outlets to the existing system, they should comply with modern AFCI standards.
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SURGE PROTECTION INSTALLED
This house has a surge protector installed to protect the electrical system. Disclose more information about which circuits are protected or of the whole panel is protected. Please note that the 2020 edition of the National Electrical Code requires type 1 or type 2 surge protection on new or renovated houses. This code change reflects the growing complexity of our electrical appliances and the risk of damage to these appliances from electrical surges.
Generator Equipment
None noted
Appliance Disconnects
Disconnects Noted: None Noted
Electrical Grounding System
Present - Could Not Confirm
During a home or property inspection, every effort is made to inspect the visible components of the electrical system grounding. The grounding system is critical for safely discharging electrical surges, especially in the case of lightning strikes. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of the grounding system as much of the system is not visible, and there are no practical tests one can perform in the way we can test a furnace or a plumbing fixture. However, many things can lead me to recommend further evaluation of the grounding system by a licensed electrical contractor, and they will be documented in the observations below if discovered.
Electrical Bonding System
Present - Could Not Confirm, Bonding Noted on Water Pipes
During the inspection, I attempt to visually document electrical system bonding. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of system bonding. All metallic systems in the building are required to be "bonded" (connected) to the the building's electrical grounding system. Bonding creates a pathway to shunt static charges (that would otherwise build up on the system) to earth, and to provide a pathway to trip a breaker in the event that these bonded metallic components became energized. There are many things that can lead me to recommend further evaluation of this system by a licensed electrical contractor and they will be documented as repair items in the observations below if discovered.
Bonding connections were noted on the water pipes.
Electric Distribution and Finish
Branch Wiring
Wire Material: Copper, Multi-strand Aluminum
Wiring Method: Non-metallic sheathed cable
Receptacles and Fixtures
Inspection Method: Tested All Accessible
During inspection I make an effort to test and inspect all accessible electric receptacles and switches. In general, the scope of testing is directly related to access; where personal belonging and furniture obstruct access to receptacles and fixtures, fewer of them can be reasonably tested during inspection. All defects found during inspection today will be listed in this report. Inspection/testing of the electrical system can be challenging. It should be anticipated that not all defects will be discovered and that some issues found may actually not be defects at all. Tools used to verify proper wiring and function can vary wildly in reliability/consistency. The kinds of tools that could be used to confidently analyze the system and its function cannot typically be done in the context of a Standard Home Inspection. I look for indications of issues, based on the age of the home, types of wiring systems used etc, as well as personal experience and by testing with a variety of common tools. Issues identified, will be further discussed with recommendations in the electrical section below.
Electric Receptacles: Three wire receptacles
GFCI's WIRED IN SERIES
Several GFCI-protected breakers were noted to be wired in series - see the exterior west side and 2nd floor bathroom. This is not a safety hazard, but it is a non-standard installation and can be confusing when going to re-set breakers, as re-set buttons will not re-set if another GFCI is tripped on the same circuit. Have this further investigated and repaired by a licensed electrician.
GFCI PROTECTION RECOMMENDED
Since the 1970s, requirements for GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) protection have changed, and locations requiring GFCI protection seem to get added with every code cycle. It is common for older residential buildings to have some or even many electric receptacles that do not meet modern safety standards. GFCIs have proven successful at reducing electrocutions, and it seems likely that someday, every circuit, receptacle, and appliance in the building will require GFCI protection. The first chart below shows how successful GFCIs have been at reducing risks from electrocution. The second illustration shows where GFCI protection is required as of the 2020 NEC and WAC. As a general best practice for safety. For improved safety, I always recommend bringing GFCI protection up to modern safety standards.
During inspection today, I noted that GFCI protection is inconsistent with modern minimum standards for safety in the following locations:
- GFCI protection is incomplete for kitchen countertop receptacles
- No GFCI protection noted for the laundry
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BUILT-IN MICROWAVE ON COUNTERTOP CIRCUIT
A built-in microwave has been installed on one of the kitchen countertop circuits. This is OK if the microwave is under 10 amps. The general rule of thumb is not more that 50% of the rating of the circuit. Usually these are 20 amp circuits. Larger microwaves on shared circuits can lead to overheating. I recommend reviewing the owners manual to verify.
Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm Systems
CO Alarms: Present
The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cooktops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. In addition, Washington State law (WAC 51-51-0315) now requires UL 2034 approved carbon monoxide alarms in ALL homes and condominiums being sold in Washington State. The location should be: at least one alarm outside of all sleeping areas and one on each floor of the house. Best practices are to have these alarms hardwired with a battery back-up - though requirements are for the installation to meet manufacturer's specifications. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death. Alarms have a useful service life of roughly 6 years, so changing them more frequently than smoke alarms is recommended.
Smoke Alarms Noted:
On Main FloorOn 2nd Floor
Smoke Alarms: Present, None In Bedrooms
During the home inspection, I try and test a representative sample of the smoke alarms by using the test button on the alarms. This is NOT an accurate test of the sensor, just a test to see if the unit is powered. For reliability, fire marshals recommended updating smoke alarms every ten years and changing batteries bi-annually. The latest data indicate that we should be using photoelectric technology in our smoke alarms for improved fire detection and reducing problems with false alarms, which can lead to disabling of this critical safety system. Unfortunately, the alarms must be removed to determine if they are photo-electric or ionization types. It is surprisingly complex to accurately test a smoke alarm system and determine the reliability, age, and type of sensor technology used, especially as many homes can have half a dozen or more alarms throughout the house. A complete evaluation of smoke alarms is beyond the scope of this inspection. For optimal fire safety, I recommend taking control of these critical safety devices and learning about how to service and maintain your smoke alarm system to keep the building occupants safe. For more information, please read this link. For more information, please read this link.
SMOKE ALARMS NOT USING HARDWIRING
The smoke alarms installed are newer, but they are not using the wiring provided and are just battery operated. If wiring is present, smoke and carbon monoxide alarms should use the hardwiring with battery back-up. This may necessitate changing the wiring termination so it fits the modern alarms. Consult with a licensed electrical contractor about options for repairs.
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SOME ALARMS INCOMPLETE
Modern standards recommend smoke alarms in all bedrooms, in all hallways outside bedrooms and at least one on each floor of the building. At the time of inspection smoke alarms were incomplete in the bedrooms.
Carbon monoxide alarms were found and noted during inspection. Be sure to check these regularly. The standard is 1/ floor and 1 outside all sleeping areas.
Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation
Heating Systems
Energy Source: Electricity
Heating Method: Electric unitary heaters
Manufacturer: King
General Capacity of Electric Heaters: 750 watts / electric wall heater
CLEAN THE ELECTRIC HEATERS
The electric wall heaters are dirty and require cleaning - several of the heaters were smelling of burning dust during operation. Best practices are to turn power off to the heater and use compressed air to clean the dust from the heating elements. The fan blades can be wiped or vacuumed as needed then restore power. Many manufacturers of these heaters recommend cleaning every six months to prevent a fire hazard. They also recommend keeping all electric cords, curtains and furniture at least three feet from the heater.
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CONSIDER A DUCTLESS HEAT PUMP
Consider upgrading the heating system by installing a ductless mini-split heat pump - this system will be 3-4 times more efficient than the electric boiler. This type of heating system is also much safer as it does not pose the fire and burn hazards of conventional electric heaters. Ductless heat pumps will also have the benefit of cooling. Sample Brochure.
Vents and Flues
None noted
Air Filters
Filtration Systems: Not Applicable
Cooling Systems and Heat Pumps
No Heat Pump or Air Conditioning Present
Heating and Cooling Distribution Systems
Heat Source in Each Room: Present
Distribution Method: Unitary Heaters
Thermal images show the unitary heaters working during inspection. These are representative photos.
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Mechanical Ventilation Systems
Whole House Fans, Ventilation and HRVs: No Mechanical Ventilation Found - Old House
Bath Fan Ducting: Ducted to exterior
Kitchen Fan Ducting: None noted
MECHANICAL VENTILATION
This building has no provisions for automatic mechanical ventilation - I did not find a 24 hour timer for a fan anywhere - typical for a building of this age. Installing a bath or laundry fan on a 24 hour timer is recommended to ensure mechanical air changes. This can help keep relative humidity in check. As a general rule, keep relative humidity below 55% in cold weather to reduce chances for condensation. You can monitor relative humidity with inexpensive temperature and relative humidity gauges. For a nice fan system I recommend looking at Panasonic Whisper Green fans - these do not rely on a timer and run continuously to facilitate air changes. Panasonic Fans Website
✒️ - A nice quite new fan on a timer in the laundry would be a great way to help control indoor humidity.
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Gas Fireplaces
Fireplace Types: Direct vent gas log fireplace
System Responded to Testing: Yes
This shows the fireplace working during the inspection.
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Solid Fuel Fireplaces
Fireplace Types: No wood burning fireplaces or appliances noted
Plumbing
Water Service Supply
Pipe Material: Unknown
Water Supply: Public water
Water Pressure: Water Pressure Tested, 75 PSI
This shows the water pressure tested during the inspection. Generally, "normal water pressure" should be between 30-80 PSI, though pressures near or below 30 can result in poor functional flow to fixtures. Water pressures in excess of 80 PSI risk damaging supply piping components and should be controlled with a pressure-reducing valve.
Pressure Reducing Valve: None noted
Main Water Shut-off Location: Water Shut Off Location Noted
This shows the location of the main water shut off located in the entry coat closet.
Distribution Pipe
Pipe Insulation: Missing in Crawl Space
Supply Pipe Materials: Copper, Only Partly Visible
Copper water supply pipes were installed. Copper pipes installed prior to the late 1980's may be joined with solder that contains lead, which is a known health hazard especially for children. Laws were passed in 1985 prohibiting the use of lead in solder, but prior to that solder normally contained approximately 50% lead. Note that testing for toxic materials such as lead, is beyond the scope of this inspection. Consider having a qualified lab test for lead, and if necessary take steps to reduce or remove lead from the water supply. Various solutions include:
- Flush water taps or faucets. Do not drink water that has been sitting in the plumbing lines for more than 6 hours
- Install appropriate filters at points of use
- Use only cold water for cooking and drinking, as hot water dissolves lead more quickly than cold water
- Treat well water to make it less corrosive
- Have a qualified plumber replace supply pipes and/or plumbing components as necessary
Functional Flow: Average
Circulation Pump: None Noted
Please note that the supply pipes are concealed behind insulation and finishes and visual inspection was limited. Determination of the supply piping materials used here is an educated guess based on the materials that were visible coming out of the wall and below fixtures.
Waste Pipe and Discharge
Discharge Type: Public Sewer - Buyer
Waste and Vent Pipe Materials: ABS plastic
VIDEO SEWER SCOPE RECOMMENDED
An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. A sewer scope is recommended to further evaluate the sewer line and the below ground connections between the house and the municipal sewer line as these are not visible to inspection. Sewer scopes are done using video cameras and can show the materials, condition and reliability of the sewer line. If a video scope has not been done recently, I recommend having a sewer scope performed.
Exterior Hose Bibs
Operating
Sump Pumps and Drains
Floor Drain: None noted
Sump Pumps: None noted
Sewage Ejector Pumps
Sewage Ejector Pump: None noted
Water Heaters
Water Heater
System Type: Tank
Manufacturer: Bradford-White
Data Plate: Shown Here
This shows the data plate for this water heater.
Size: 50 gal
Age: Bradford White (C= 2006)
Energy Source: Electricity
Straps : None Found
Pad: None Needed
Drain Pan: None Noted - Recommended
Expansion Tank: None Noted - Recommended
Relief Valve: Present - Not Tested, Corrugated Supply Connector Used as Discharge
A temperature and pressure relief valve (TPRV) is required on all water heaters to discharge any excessive pressure within the tank. A discharge pipe should be attached to the valve and directed to a safe location away from body contact. Newer installations must be directed to the building exterior or to an approved indoor drain receptor. Most manufacturers suggest that homeowners test these valves at least once a year by lifting the lever to ensure the valve discharges properly and also recommend inspection of these safety devices every three years. The picture here shows a typical TPRV. They may also be found on the side of the heater on some models. I do not test these valves due to the possibility that they may leak after testing. A leaking or inoperative TPRV should be replaced immediately by a licensed plumber.
Due to inconsistencies between both UPC and IPC Plumbing codes, and water heater manufacturer's instructions, and TPRV manufacturer instructions, it is not actually possible to install the drain from the Water Heater TPRV "properly." There are conflicts with distance of termination to the floor/ground, types of pipes approved, and diameters of pipes approved. Additional confusion is added when jurisdictional inspectors approve installations/materials specifically not allowed by both codes and manufacturers. My recommendations will vary depending on the installation and will be included in the applicable narratives below.
Most codes defer to manufacturer instructions and I favor those recommendations. The yellow tag on the valve states clearly the termination should be 6" above the floor which is more consistent with the UPC code requirements.
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WATER HEATER SEISMIC RESTRAINTS
Install listed seismic straps to restrain the water heater in the event of an earthquake; none were noted during inspection. Two straps should be located on the water heater: one on upper 1/3rd of tank and one at the lower 1/3rd.
NO DRAIN PAN FOR WATER HEATER
No drain pan has been installed below the water heater here. A drain pan is recommended under water heaters that are located in finished spaces or where a leak could damage finishes. Where a pan does not already exist, the tricky part is providing a drain to the outside. A pan without a drain is often of limited benefit / protection. For improved protection from accidental water heater leaks, and where a drain is difficult to install, consider a pan with a moisture alarm and a flood-safe device such as this: Watts Water Heater Leak Prevention.
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WATER HEATER RELIEF VALVE
The discharge tube for the water heater temperature and pressure relief valve (TPRV) is plumbed using a corrugated supply connector. Though this is common, this restricts the diameter of the opening and is unsafe and not recommended - see attached link. Ideally, the discharge tube for a relief valve:
- Terminates to an exterior location or above a drain, though this is not always possible
- Terminates between 6 and 24-inches off the ground (UPC)
- Slopes to drain to prevent water pooling inside the discharge tube
- Is not made from pipe with an inside diameter less than 3/4 on an inch
- Terminates to a visible location that can be monitored for leaks and discharges
- Does not have a threaded termination point which would prevent accidental capping of this important discharge
- Does not terminate into a drain pan
Recommendation
Have this relief valve discharge tube further investigated and repaired as recommended by a licensed plumber.
NO THERMAL EXPANSION DEVICE
No thermal expansion device was found for the water heating system. Some type of thermal expansion device is required for closed plumbing systems. This is typically provided by an expansion tank at the water heater. Thermal expansion devices help prevent unwanted pressure build-up in piping systems.
OLDER WATER HEATER
This water heater is likely close to the end of its useful service life. The average life of a water heater is statistically 8-12 years though in practice, they can vary widely between 8-20 years depending on water quality and maintenance schedule such as frequency of flushing the tank and replacing sacrificial anodes. Budget to replace this water heater at any time. Water was hot at the time of inspection.
Water Temperature
Water Temperature Measured During Inspection: Testing Note, 129 Degrees F
The water temperature was tested multiple times during inspection. It is common for water temperatures to fluctuate throughout the house depending on the distance from the water heater, the water heater settings, the type of water heater and any thermostatic controls used in the plumbing fixtures and mixing valves. For reporting, the median temperature is used.
WATER TESTED HOT
Testing of the plumbing system today, the water tested as too hot - 129 degrees F. This is a scald hazard. To prevent scalding, standards recommend indoor hot water temperatures do not exceed 120 degrees. There is some evidence that hot water temperatures should be greater than 130 degrees to prevent Legionnaires' disease from developing in the water heater. If this is a concern, you can heat the water in the tank to 140 degrees F and have a tempering valve installed at the hot water tank. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a licensed plumber, or simply turn down the temperature as desired to eliminate a scald hazard. Please note that during the inspection, it is difficult to accurately test the water temperature as it can vary between fixtures. Testing is done in multiple locations during the inspection, and a median temperature is taken.
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Interior
Floors and Floor Materials
Floor Materials: Carpet, Plastic sheet goods
Floor Settlement: None noted
OLDER CARPETING
The wall-to-wall carpeting is older and showing signs of age, indicating it may require updating soon. The urgency of updating depends on your desire for cosmetic appearance. See the attached photos showing localized staining and damage.
Walls, Ceilings, Trim, Hallways and Closets
Wall and Ceiling Materials: Drywall
Wall Insulation and Air Bypass
Wall Insulation: Not Visible
Stairs and Railings
Standard
Interior Doors
Interior Doors: Hollow Core
Windows
Window Glazing: Double pane
Interior Window Frame: Wood
Window Styles: Casement, Fixed pane
Kitchen
General Kitchen Photos
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Sinks and Faucets
Tested
Cabinets and Countertops
Countertop Material: Plastic laminate
Cabinet Material: Wood laminate, Wood
CABINET REPAIRS
Tune-up repairs are needed to the kitchen cabinets. Repair as desired. Examples of observations noted during inspection include:
- Cabinet finishes are worn and some loose hardware was noted.
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Disposers
Disposer: Operated
Dishwasher
Dishwasher: Operated
Johnson Tee:Present
This building has a Johnson Tee installed to protect the dishwasher in its connection to the waste piping system. The link here has additional information about these systems.
Ventilation Method
Ductless Fan - Electric
DUCTLESS KITCHEN COOKTOP EXHAUST FAN NOTED
A ductless exhaust fan was noted for the cooktop. Installation of a fan that ducts to the exterior is recommended to remove moist air and odors to the exterior. Please note that if you switch to a gas range or cooktop in the future, a fan that vents to the exterior is still not required, as long as there is some ventilation in the kitchen, but it is more strongly recommended. Gas ovens produce carbon monoxide while running and should have an exhaust vent to the exterior.
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- In modern construction, all kitchens require some form of mechanical ventilation but modern buildings are generally much tighter and have more precise requirements for mechanical ventilation. It was common for older kitchens to have fans that do not vent to the exterior.
Ranges, Ovens and Cooktops
Range/ Oven /Cook-tops: Electric
The oven and cooktop were tested during the inspection and were operable. Ovens are tested in bake mode only. Appliances are generally beyond the scope of a home inspection but are tested for basic function as a courtesy. This does not include testing to see if the thermostat is accurate, for example.
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Refrigerators
Refrigerator: Operating
Thermal images show the freezer and refrigerator working during the inspection.
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General Appliances
Insta-Hot: Unplugged - Inquire
INSTA-HOT IS UNPLUGGED
The Insta-hot appliance below the kitchen sink is unplugged. I was unable to test this as I do not like to plug things in that have been unplugged as I do not know why they were unplugged and this could have been done for safety reasons. Inquire with the tenant for additional information and have this made operable as needed.
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General Kitchen Condition
Standard
Laundry Facilities
Laundry Photos
Washer
Tested
During inspection, I try and run the clothes washing machine. This is mostly so that I can push water down the drain to test the waste piping system. Running the clothes washer during an inspection is not a reliable test of the appliance. I am not actually doing a load of laundry, so please note the limitations of this test.
MOISTURE ALARM RECOMMENDED
A moisture alarm with water shut-off features is recommended under the washing machine to protect against accidental leaks in the supply hoses. Pans can be effective when there is a drain, but even these will not protect against a burst supply connector. A moisture alarm with automatic shut-off will. Watts is a brand I have seen installed: Link.
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Dryer
Tested
Proper dryer exhaust venting is critical for safe and reliable performance from the dryer. Here are some basic rules of thumb for dryer exhaust duct installation: Unless a vent-free appliance is being used, the dryer exhaust vent must terminate outdoors. It should be no more than 25 feet long and for every 90 degree turn subtract 5 feet and for every 45 degree bend subtract 2.5 feet. Use only smooth-wall metal vent pipe @ 4 inch pipe diameter. Do not use plastic pipe and plastic flex pipe. If a flexible connector is needed behind the dryer use a short amount of corrugated metal pipe. If the exhaust duct is getting pinched behind dryer, consider use of a dryer vent box, pictured here. Flex and corrugated pipes should never be used in concealed spaces such as through walls or in attic or crawl spaces. Insulate dryer exhaust duct where it passes through unconditioned spaces to prevent condensation that could hasten lint build-up inside the pipe. Do not use screws to connect pipe as these can trap lint. Secure duct with foil tape as needed. Be sure duct is sleeved properly so that it will not trap lint and clean the vent regularly, especially if it is a long exhaust run.
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Power Source: Electric
Exhaust Duct: Ducted to Exterior
CORRUGATED DRYER EXHAUST VENT IN A CONCEALED SPACE
The dryer exhaust duct is done in a corrugated vent pipe. This is not recommended as the corrugations can trap lint which can become a fire hazard. Some types of corrugated vent pipe can be used for the transition duct directly behind the dryer, but in concealed spaces such as behind walls, in attics, and in crawl spaces, corrugated exhaust vent pipe is not recommended. I recommend additional inspection and repair of this dryer exhaust vent by a qualified contractor. Use smooth wall metal pipe only, and if the exhaust duct is run outside the thermal envelope, the exhaust duct should be insulated to reduce risks of condensation.
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Thermal image shows the dryer was tested and operating at the time of inspection.
Laundry Sinks
None noted
Downstairs Bathroom
General Bathroom Photos
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Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
Shower Type: Tile
Tub Type: Pressed steel
Bathroom Ventilation
Type: Fan and window
General Bath
Old Finishes - update soon (One Bathroom)
WATER DAMAGED FINISHES IN BATHROOM
Water damaged finishes were noted around the bath tub in the downstairs bath. This is often caused by occupant behavior. The shower head seams to be spraying at the back wall and water must be seeping around the door. This condition risks concealed water damage.
Recommendation
Hire a qualified general contractor to further evaluate and repair water damage as needed.
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UPDATE BATHROOM SOON
With the exception of any comments listed above, this family bathroom was in serviceable condition. However, the finishes and fixtures are old and will be increasingly unreliable. Updating / remodeling this bathroom would be a logical improvement in the near term. The urgency of updating will depend on how often this bathroom is to be used and personal desired for reliability and cosmetic appearance.
Hall Bathroom
General Bathroom Photos
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
Shower Type: Acrylic/Fiberglass
Tub Type: Acrylic/Fiberglass
Bathroom Ventilation
Type: Bath fan
General Bath
Standard
BATHROOM TESTING PROCEEDURES
During inspection today I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for concealed leaks and sounded for loose tile and finishes in shower and tub enclosures. I do not test bathtub overflow drains as this risks damaging finishes around the tub. Monitor tubs while filling and avoid pushing water into the overflow. Even well-installed overflow drains can leak as the gaskets that seal the overflow will dry out over time and may no longer provide a watertight seal. Monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents less stress on plumbing than daily use. Please note that vacant homes present additional risk as it can be difficult to distinguish how the plumbing system will respond to daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
Attic
Attic Access
Viewed at access
INSULATE ATTIC ACCESS HATCH
The attic access hatch requires insulation and weather stripping to prevent heat loss and heat migration into the attic.
NO ACCESS RAMP IN ATTIC
There is no ramp or safe way to access the attic space. Crawling through insulation and on top of framing risks damaging thermal barriers and ceiling finishes and is not a safe way to access an attic. This limited inspection of this space.
Roof Framing and Sheathing
Rafters: Truss
Sheathing: OSB, Skip sheathing
EVIDENCE OF MINOR ATTIC CONDENSATION PROBLEMS NOTED
Stains were noted on the roof decking material when viewed from the attic. This indicates the attic has experienced prior condensation problems during the cold weather months. Generally, the way to prevent seasonal condensation in an attic involves a 4-pronged approach:
1. Air seal the ceiling as is feasible to slow air migration from the interior into the attic.
2. Be sure all bath and kitchen fans in the attic are well-sealed and venting to the exterior.
3. Keep indoor relative humidity below 55% during cold-weather months
4. Make sure the roof cavity / attic spaces are correctly ventilated.
Options for handling this include:
- Implement the cheapest and most obvious repairs and monitor during cold weather to make sure the space is staying dry and take additional corrective action only if needed
- Have it further investigated by a mold remediation or building performance contractor.
It is difficult to gauge during a one time inspection the degree to which this is an older or intermittent problem. Attic condensation problems can be seasonal and related to occupant behavior and even drainage. This makes it difficult to make an accurate recommendation for corrective action as it can take time to determine a practical scope and urgency for repair. For more information about roof condensation problems, please see the attached hot link above. Observations noted during inspection include:
- Minor staining noted in a few spots at the upper roof access
- Staining adjacent to the skylight indicates some air leakage from the skylight
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Fire Separation and Fire Blocking
Fire Blocking and Fire Separation in Attic: Not Visible
Attic Insulation
Insulation Type: Cellulose
Approximate Insulation R-Value on Attic Floor: 30, Improve to Modern Standard
OLD ATTIC INSULATION
The attic insulation could be improved to modern standards, which recommend R-49 on the floor and R-21 on the walls. R-value is the measure of resistance to heat loss; the higher the R-value, the better the insulation. During insulation repairs, it is best practice to implement any air seal-up repairs to seal air leakage. Also, be sure you have completed any wiring or other projects needed in the attic. Then, hire an insulation contractor to improve thermal barriers.
Attic and Roof Cavity Ventilation
Attic Ventilation Method: Gable vents, Roof jack vents
INCOMPLETE SOFFIT VENTING
The soffit venting on this house appears to be incomplete. This is common on older houses that often had wood roofs, or were simply built prior to requirements for insulation and ventilation as done today. It can be complex to know the urgency of repair. This is how many old homes were constructed, but as we improve insulation levels, it is wise to improve a corresponding amount of roof cavity ventilation to reduce risks from seasonal condensation and too keep the attic space cool. Consult with a qualified general contractor about installing soffit venting or lower, "intake" vents for the roof cavity / attic space.
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Crawl Space
General Crawl Space
Crawl Space: Present
CRAWL SPACE CLEAN-UP
Overall, numerous repairs are needed to the crawl space below this building. I have made a series of detailed observations in this observations but given the extent of repairs I recommend further evaluation of this crawl space by a licensed general contractor who specializes in crawl space clean-up as additional repairs could be needed that are latent or concealed.
Examples of Observations Noted During Inspection Include
- The plastic vapor barrier is incomplete in places
- The sub-floor insulation is rodent-damaged and requires repair and replacement
- The sub-floor insulation is missing in places and requires tune-up repairs
- The access hatch on the interior could use insulation
- The plastic vapor barrier has slid of of position in places and requires adjustment
- Wood debris needs to be removed from the crawl space
- Moderate water was noted in the crawl space indicating a qualified contractor is needed to diagnose and repair drainage problems
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Crawl Space Access
Method of Inspection: Crawled
During inspection of the crawl space, every effort is made to inspect the entire space. Visual inspection of crawl spaces is difficult and limited as access is often restricted by pipes, ducts and sub-floor insulation as well as limited clearances.
Crawl Space Access Hatch Location: Interior access hatch
AIR SEAL AND INSULATE CRAWL SPACE ACCESS
The crawl space access hatch should be insulated and weather-stripped to prevent heat loss and air leakage.
Vapor Barrier
Vapor Barrier Material: Plastic on earth, Incomplete
Crawl Space Ventilation
Ventilation Method: Exterior wall vents
Posts and Footings
Standard
Insulation
Insulation Type: Rock wool
Approximate R-Value: Inconsistent
Moisture Conditions
Moderate water noted during inspection
Structure and Basement
Foundation
% of Foundation Not Visible: 30%
Evidence of Seismic Protection: Not visible, Some Signs
Building Configuration: Crawl space, Slab on grade (garage slab)
Foundation Description: Poured concrete
Floor, Wall and Ceiling Framing
Wall Framing: Not visible
Wall Sheathing: Not visible
Floor Framing: Partly visible, 2x8
Sub-Floor Material: Partly visible, OSB
Ceiling Framing: Not visible
Basement
None
Rodents, Pests and Wood Destroying Organisms
Rodents
Some signs
Other Pests
Ant Traps Noted
ANT BAITS FOUND
An ant trap was found in the bathroom. These are common traps from the hardware store and often used for "sugar ants," or odorous house ants. Inquire with the tenant for any history of ant problems or treatments.
Wood Destroying Organisms
Visible Evidence of Active Wood Destroying Insects: None noted
Visible Evidence of Inactive Wood Destroying Insects: None noted
Visible Evidence of Damage from Wood Destroying Insects: None noted
Visible Evidence of Active Wood Decay and Fungi: Present, See WDO Comments in this report
Visible Evidence of Conditions Conducive to Wood Destroying Organisms: Present, See WDO observations in this report
Invoice -- 📸 THE COMPLETE REPORT
7653 I Need Some Work Ave Seattle, WA
| Townhouse (Home Maintenance Inspection) | $695.00 |
| $0.00 | |
| 695.00 | |
| DUE |
Orca Inspection Services LLC
C/O Dylan Chalk
5761 NE Tolo Rd
Bainbridge Island, WA 98110
206-713-5715
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Signed Contracts
Orca Inspection Services LLC
206-713-5715
www.orcainspect.com
Inspector: Dylan Chalk, WA State Inspector License
No. 365, WA State Pest License
No. 65540
orcainspect@gmail.com
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