Company Information

ABI Home Inspection Services, LLC

502-938-5190
ben@abihomeservices.com
https://abihomeservices.com/

Inspector: Ben Hendricks: KY State License #HI-102215
Published Report

The Scope and Purpose of a Home Inspection

Purchasing property involves risk

The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a structure by providing a professional opinion about the overall condition of the structure. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we don’t know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend that you attend the inspection.

A home inspection is not an insurance policy

This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Home warranties can be purchased separately from insuring firms that provide this service.

A home inspection is visual and not destructive

The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing which will limit the scope of the inspection.

This is not an inspection for code compliance

This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction process structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, and this limits the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are augmented at least every three years for all of the varying disciplines. Municipalities can choose to adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their own timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done.

This is just my opinion

Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are the opinions of the home inspector. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have some differing opinions. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals.

The scope of this inspection

This inspection will include the following systems: exterior, roof, structure, drainage, foundation, attic, interior, plumbing, electrical and heating. The evaluation will be based on limited observations that are primarily visual and non-invasive. This inspection and report are not intended to be technically exhaustive.

Your expectations

The overall goal of a home inspection is to help ensure that your expectations are appropriate with the house you are proposing to buy. To this end we assist with discovery by showing and documenting observations during the home inspection. This should not be mistaken for a technically exhaustive inspection designed to uncover every defect with a building. Such inspections are available but they are generally cost-prohibitive to most homebuyers.

Your participation is requested

Your presence is requested during this inspection. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by a shared visual observation of the conditions of the property.

How to Read This Report

Getting the Information to You

This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a quick look at our "Summary Page” and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos and hot links to additional information.

The best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online, which will allow you to expand your learning about your house. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined – clicking on these will provide you with a link to additional information.

This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document.

Chapters and Sections

This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.

Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there may be no narrative observation comments in that section and it may simply say “tested,” or “inspected.”

Observation Labels

All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:

  • Safety:
    I visually observed a condition in the home that may pose a safety risk or hazardous condition. These conditions should be rectified before occupying the home.
  • Health & Safety:
    I visually observed a condition in the home that may pose a safety risk or health hazardous condition. These items & conditions should be resolved/corrected before occupying the home.
  • Major Concern:
    Repair items that may cost significant money to correct now or in the near future, or items that require immediate attention to prevent additional damage or eliminate safety hazards.
  • Repair:
    Repair and maintenance items noted during inspection. Please note that some repair items can be expensive to correct such as re-finishing hardwood floors, but are considered simply repair items due to their cosmetic nature.
  • Improve:
    Observations that are not necessarily defects, but which could be improved for safety, efficiency, or reliability reasons.
  • Monitor:
    Items that should be watched to see if correction may be needed in the future.
  • Due Diligence:
    Items that may require further investigation to determine the severity and / or urgency of repair.
  • Completed:
    Items that were tested/checked and found to be in working order. No further action is needed.
  • Future Project:
    A repair that may be deferred for some time but should be on the radar for repair or replacement in the near future.
  • Efficiency:
    Denotes observations that are needed to make the home more energy efficient as well as to bring the home up to modern insulation standards. This category typically includes windows and insulation. Other items, such as lighting and appliances, are not inspected for their energy status.
  • Note:
    Refers to aside information and /or any comments elaborating on descriptions of systems in the home or limitations to the home inspection.

Who Repairs the Items Found in this Report

As I don't know the qualifications of the seller or the buyer to conduct repairs, I always recommend that you consult a qualified licensed professional in the appropriate trade to determine all needed repairs and best repair method, to estimate costs, and to perform all repairs deemed necessary. That's what I mean when I write "Repair as necessary", "Fix it" or ANY other terms implying the need for repair/replacement.

You need to decide for yourself if you or the seller's qualifications, experience and knowledge would allow the repair to be made without using a qualified licensed trade professional.

Summary Page

The Summary Page is designed as a bulleted overview of all the observations noted during inspection. This helpful overview is not a substitution for reading the entire inspection report. The entire report must be read to get a complete understanding of this inspection report as the Summary Page does not include photographs or photo captions.

Report Summary

Safety

  • G1-6 🌳 Grounds:

    The top step at the basement stairwell is a trip hazard. This several-inch lip could cause someone to trip and tumble down the staircase. Have a contractor remove this section as needed.

  • ESDW-1 🧱 Exterior Siding, Doors and Windows:

    There is a sliding glass door that leads out onto the back porch roof. This is a dangerous situation as you have no fall protection on the roof itself. The door that leads out to the area is also in poor condition and has failed thermal seals on the glass.


    Have the door replaced as needed, and install a railing and/or fall protection around the area for the safety of all who venture out onto the roof.

  • I5-3 🔑 Interior:

    The ends of the handrail should return to the wall to prevent clothing or accessories from catching on the end of the railing and creating a trip hazard.

  • K-1 🔪 Kitchen:

    The electrical cable feeding power to the garbage disposal should be in conduit for safety. You don't want electrical lines exposed where people can grab them or where they can be damaged by someone. Have an electrician evaluate the situation and repair the power cable for the disposer as they see fit.

Health & Safety

  • DPB5-1 🏡Decks, Porches and Balconies:

    The front porch is high enough that you'll want to have a guardrail installed around the porch cap and a handrail down the steps. A fall from this height could injure someone, especially children or the elderly. Speak with a qualified contractor about installing the proper railing on all sides of the porch.

  • FSD1-2 ⛽ Fuel Storage and Distribution:

    The yellow flexible gas line is a product known as CSST (Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing). CSST has had problems in the past on homes that were struck by lightning or had lightning strikes near them. The thin, flexible wall of the product is not strong enough to handle a strike’s energy and can fail/rupture because of transient arcing.


    According to the manufacturers, all installations of CSST should be properly bonded to the home's electrical ground system to help supply a path for the energy to go in case of an incident. You should contact an electrician who is familiar with CSST and who knows how to properly correct the install for your own safety.


    You can learn more about CSST here: http://www.csstsafety.com/CSST-lightning.html


    I've written an article that explains the risk of un-bonded CSST in detail. You can read that here: https://abihomeservices.com/csst-installation-bonding-requirements/

  • I5-5 🔑 Interior:

    The home's Carbon Monoxide level was checked with a calibrated Sensorcon Industrial PRO Carbon Monoxide Gas Monitor. The level maxed out at 1ppm.


    Keep in mind this level of carbon monoxide is not dangerous for you, but it is an indication of a gas appliance emitting CO into the home.


    Have an HVAC contractor check the gas appliances and repair/replace things as needed for your safety.

Major Concerns

  • G-1 🚘 Garage:

    There are several stairstep cracks in the walls of the garage that typically indicate foundation movement. You will need to have a foundation repair specialist evaluate the structure and give you some idea of the cost and scope of the repairs.


    Note: The back wall of the garage is buried into the hillside and I would expect this to leak when it rains. I don’t have any idea how much it will leak, but sometimes the situation can allow a lot of water to seep through the walls of the garage.

Repairs

  • G1-1 🌳 Grounds:

    The back yard has a negative slope leading back to the patio/house. This negative grade will channel water towards the structure, and in heavy rains, may reach the home's foundation. You will not be able to gauge the situation until you see how the grading handles large amounts of water, but I do suspect this will be something that needs to be addressed.


    Any time water is allowed to pool or pond around the house it usually leads to foundation settlement issues, leaking, and a variety of other problems you do not want to deal with.


    Have a contractor who specializes in water proofing/grading evaluate the situation and correct the grading as needed so water can't build up around the house.


  • G1-3 🌳 Grounds:

    The grading around the basement windows is too high.


    Ideally, you want the ground a few inches below the sill of any window. Most of the time this is not feasible to do without re-grading the whole yard (which is costly).


    The next best thing is to install window wells around the windows. This will help get the water away from the window and reduce the chance of the windows leaking into the basement.


    I've attached a small diagram for reference to show you how it's done.

  • G1-5 🌳 Grounds:

    The exterior basement well stairs are missing a graspable handrail for safety. This should be a round railing 1 and 1/4 inches - 2 inches in diameter. If the railing is not round it must have a finger groove that is 3/4 of an inch down from the tallest point of the rail. The graspable handrail should also be 1.5 inches from the wall. 2x material is not considered a graspable handrail. Have a qualified contractor build suitable railings to reduce the potential for falls.

  • RCG-1 🏡 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:

    The satellite dish that was bolted to the roof can lead to wood rot and deterioration due to the penetrations through the roof. Allowing an installer to place a dish on your roof is a very bad idea. This area may develop leaks as it ages, and you may have some rotted substrate plywood present when the shingles are replaced.


    You can have the dish removed now and the shingles replaced, or you can wait until the entire roof needs to be replaced and deal with it at that point.

  • RCG-2 🏡 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:

    The roof assembly has multiple 'nail pops' across the front slope(s). A nail pop is when the fastener used to secure the shingles back out from the wood structure and causes the head of the nail to lift the shingle tab off of the roof. This happens during seasonal climate change as the expansion and contraction of the wood substrate can cause the shank of the nail to lift up. A handful of nail pops is not uncommon, but if you have a lot of them to deal with it can be a sign of a much larger problem.


    If a nail backs out of the roof structure enough it can break the seal on the shingle, leaving them susceptible to wind damage and creating a leak with wind-driven rain. Have a roofing contractor evaluate the situation and repair the shingles as needed.

  • RCG-4 🏡 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:

    The back porch and upper back roof have asphalt rolled roofing installed as the covering. This material typically has a lifespan of about 10 years, and I see cracking beginning in areas, which is normally a precursor to needing a replacement.


    It is unlikely that this covering will last the lifespan of the rest of the roof.


    Have a roofing contractor take a look at the situation and give you some idea as to how long you can reasonably expect this area of the roof to last before it will have to be replaced.

  • RCG-5 🏡 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:

    The sealant around the flashing of the chimney is new in parts and old/dried up in others. This very likely may leak on you under the right wind-driven rain conditions.


    Have a roofing contractor evaluate the flashing around the base of the chimney and repair/replace as needed.

  • RCG-6 🏡 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:

    The chimney crown is worn/cracked and needs to be rebuilt. The crown (technically known as a crown wash) is what caps off the top of the chimney body, and sheds the water from getting down into the chimney body. If the crown is not kept in good condition it can cause the bricks on the body of the chimney to fall apart from spalling (spalling is a type of damage that happens to masonry from freezing water).


    Have a chimney sweep or masonry contractor (who is familiar with repairing chimneys) take a look at the chimney and repair it as needed. Keep in mind these repairs can get expensive, so be sure and do this prior to the end of your inspection period. I've included a detailed drawing for you to get a visual idea of what a proper crown wash looks like.


    A well-built chimney crown should all have the following:


    • The top should overhang the sides of the chimney a few inches (with the bottom undercut with a drip line). This prevents water from seeping back between the crown seam and the bricks around the top portion of the chimney.


    • Crowns should be made of concrete, not mortar.


    • The crown should not physically touch the flue tiles. A bond breaker should be used around the flue tiles before the crown is installed so that when you use the fireplace the expansion of the flue tiles won't lift the crown and cause it to crack.


    • All flue tiles should have caps installed to stop bulk water from getting down inside the flues.
  • RCG-7 🏡 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:

    Some of the downspouts are still draining into the old clay pipes next to the foundation. Typically, these are clogged with debris by the time a home is this age and don't carry the roof water away from the house far enough. It's a good idea to have the downspouts elbowed out at the ground and extended away on top of the ground. If you can get the roof water at least 5 feet away from the house, that will usually keep the water from causing problems in/around the house.

  • RCG-8 🏡 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:

    The gutters need more support brackets installed. They are spaced about every 4 to 5 feet currently, and you should have one every 18 to 24 inches.

  • G-2 🚘 Garage:

    The gutters on the garage are clogged and need to be cleaned out so the water can flow properly.

  • ES-2 ⚡ Electric Service:

    Currently, all sub-panels are required to be fed with four wires (two hots, a neutral, and a ground). The sub-panel here appears to be a three-wire feed. A new four-wire feed to the sub-panel should be installed for improved safety. I recommend further evaluation and repair by a licensed electrical contractor. On sub-panels it is important that neutrals and equipment grounds be separated to control stray voltage. To accomplish this, you generally need a four-wire feed. There are some cases where three-wire feeds can be used for outbuildings, but never when the sub-panel is located within the same structure.

  • EDFW1-2 ⚡ Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

    The ceiling fan on the back patio is not functioning and the blades are drooping because this is not an exterior-rated fan.


    Have an electrician evaluate the situation and replace the ceiling fan as needed.

  • HCFV1-2 🔥 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

    The air-conditioning system was running and then shut off and made a clicking noise like a relay was coming in an out of contact. I do not know what is causing this, but I did capture the event on video.


    Have an HVAC technician evaluate the system and repair as needed.

  • HCFV1-3 🔥 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

    There are streaks running down the flue pipe on the furnace, which is a sign of poor venting and that flue gases are condensing and running back in before they have time to escape into the atmosphere.


    When natural gas burns, the byproducts are mostly water, sulfur and nitrogen (acid). If the gas can't rise up out of the stack and dissipate into the air, it condenses on the inside of the vent pipe and then drains back to the furnace. The white residue is the mineral salts left over after the acid reacts with the zinc in the galvanized coating on the pipe.


    Have an HVAC tech take a look at it and repair as needed. There could be a blockage in the flue pipe or the wrong size flue pipe could have been used. The system may need to be tuned (gas pressures adjusted), the inducer fan may be faulty, or it could be many other things causing the unit to vent incorrectly.

  • HCFV1-6 🔥 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

    I could not get the gas fireplace to function. You'll want to have the sellers show you how to work the unit or have it repaired as needed.

  • P-6 🚿 Plumbing:

    The water heater temperature was set too low at the time of inspection - just 113 degrees F. The range of 120-125 degrees F is the generally recommended temperature. Adjust water heater temperature as needed. For best practice, set water temperature at the water heater to 130 degrees F and use a tempering valve to set water temp back to a safe 120 for domestic use. This high tank temperature will reduce the risks of Legionella developing in the tank.

  • I5-2 🔑 Interior:

    There is a water stain on the ceiling in the closet of the master bedroom.


    I scanned the stain after running the water upstairs for 30 minutes and did not find elevated levels of moisture. As far as I can tell, the leak has been corrected and what we are seeing is the old damage that was never repaired.

  • I5-4 🔑 Interior:

    The old wood windows are in typical condition for a house this age. Some of them are hard to open (layers of paint), some of them have broken sash cords, some have cracked panes of glass, and some have counter weights that don't work.


    These types of problems are to be expected in old houses. You'll need to have each window evaluated and repaired as needed.

  • K-3 🔪 Kitchen:

    An air gap is recommended to protect the dishwasher from accidental contamination if the sewer line were to back up. If an air gap cannot be installed, at least run the drain line above the level of the sink drain to create a high loop. This is an older way of protecting the dishwasher. Hire a licensed plumber to install an air gap.

  • FB-1 🛁 Family Bathroom:

    The toilet is loose and not secured to the floor. Loose toilets can leak around the seal and cause the floor to rot over time (as well as leak toilet water). Sometimes it is a simple fix and tightening the floor bolts takes care of the issue. Have a plumber take a look and repair as needed.


    Keep in mind they may need to pull the toilet out and check the closet flange for damage. Make the necessary repairs and re-install the toilet with a new wax ring. You also occasionally run into rotten subfloor under the toilet and things can get expensive to repair, but you can't know that until the toilet has been removed and the floors have been checked for damage.

  • MB-1 🚻 Main Bathroom:

    The drain strainer in the bathtub has rusted away and needs to be replaced. Have a plumber take a look at the situation and repair the drain assembly as needed.

  • MB-2 🚻 Main Bathroom:

    The valves in the lower bathroom are leaking at the shower. Have a plumber repair/replace the valves as needed.

  • A2-1 🗼 Attic:

    The attic access hatch cover is not air sealed and doesn't have any insulation on its backside. Areas like these can be a big ding to the efficiency of the home. You'll want to have the hatch sealed with weather stripping, and have ridged insulation placed on the back of the sheet goods that cover the hole. I've written a how-to guide on this subject that you can read here: http://abihomeservices.com/insulating-your-attic-access-hole/

Improves

  • A2-3 🗼 Attic:

    There are several spots of thin/missing insulation that are visible under thermal imaging. Gaps and voids in your insulation coverage will cost you money and comfort 24-7-365. It's a good idea to have a contractor who utilizes thermography to help identify problem areas and correct things as needed. I've also written a DIY How-to guide on properly insulating your attic if you wish to tackle this yourself. You can read that here: https://abihomeservices.com/diy-guide-to-blown-in-attic-insulation/

Monitors

  • G1-4 🌳 Grounds:

    The basement door is resting on grade with the drain at the base of the outside steps. If the drain at the bottom of the steps becomes clogged, it will likely cause water to pool and seep in under the basement door. It's very important you keep the drain cleared and free-flowing.

Due Diligences

  • GC2-1 💬 General Comments:

    This home inspection is not a mold inspection of any kind. According to the EPA, mold testing/sampling is NOT needed the vast majority of the time. Here is a link to more info from the EPA on mold: EPA on mold testing.


    The EPA has produced a document on mold in the home which you can download here: A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home


    Any mold in a house is a symptom of a moisture problem and is not the actual problem itself. If I see anything during your inspection, I will say something in this report. That is strictly a courtesy for you. If this topic concerns you, you can speak with a true mold specialist, such as an industrial hygienist, about performing a test/inspection on the home. I would be very suspicious and cautious of any "mold contractor" who has a financial interest in performing any mold testing and/or mitigation work for you.

  • G1-2 🌳 Grounds:

    The side yard has a drainage system installed along the right side of the house. There is water standing in the grates, and it hasn’t rained in a very long time. I do not know where this water is coming from or how well the system will work at keeping standing water away from the house.


    You will want to get more detailed information from the sellers about who installed this system, and if there is any warranty that comes with the work.

  • EDFW1-3 ⚡ Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

    In accordance with home inspection industry standards, I do not test smoke detectors as simply pressing the button doesn't give you any real data on how well the unit will work in a real fire. However, they are an important safety feature that must not be overlooked, and it is important to make sure that there are functional detectors installed at all required locations prior to occupying the premises. Unless the smoke detectors are newly installed I strongly encourage you to install new ones throughout the home when you move in. You can buy a 3-pack for around $30 on Amazon. Link to Smoke Detectors

  • EDFW1-4 ⚡ Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

    Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless, and tasteless gas that is poisonous to humans. It is known as the “silent killer” because humans cannot tell when they are around it, but it can be very dangerous and deadly if the levels get high enough.


    The carbon monoxide detector is a safety device that can alert homeowners of a CO leak and help them escape a potentially life-threatening situation, like carbon monoxide poisoning.


    What does a carbon monoxide detector do? 


    Carbon monoxide alarms detect the poisonous gas and provide early warning. In the event of a carbon monoxide leak, it is critical that you get to fresh air as soon as possible. Every second counts, and a detector can provide you and your family the advanced warning necessary to escape your home during an emergency.


    What are the main sources of carbon monoxide leaks?


    Carbon monoxide can be produced by any fuel-burning device. Three main sources are your home’s furnace, dryer vent in a drying machine, and fireplace or chimney. It is important to have these sources regularly serviced and cleaned by a professional to help prevent a CO leak that could lead to carbon monoxide poisoning.


    Because of the seriousness of carbon monoxide risk, I encourage you to replace or install new carbon monoxide detectors in the recommended areas.


    You should not leave old or currently installed carbon monoxide detectors in place. Most manufacturers list their life expectancy at about five years, and it's simply not worth the risk of leaving an old or pre-existing carbon monoxide detector in place.


    There are several different types of CO detectors available. Some are hardwired like this one: Hardwired CO Monitor and some plug into a receptacle for easy installation like this one; Wall Mount CO Monitor


    You can also get some units that will alert you of carbon monoxide at a much lower level then some of the cheaper models. While these more sensitive units do cost more, they will alert you to a potential issue much sooner. Low Level CO Monitor.

  • HCFV1-1 🔥 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

    If you are getting 'home warranty coverage' (either buying one or the seller is providing one) it is vital you have their company's 'approved' contractor perform an inspection and service the HVAC system before they place the unit under coverage.


    This will help prevent the warranty company from claiming a problem down the road was a pre-existing condition (which I'm told they are known for doing). Having a service letter from the same contractor makes it very difficult to have a claim denied when a problem arises.

  • P-4 🚿 Plumbing:

    The main plumbing drain/waste line is likely still the original cast iron/clay pipe from the house to the sewer connection at the street. These old pipes can break/crack in the yard. Tree roots can also make their way into these cracks creating blockages. Given the age of the home, I highly recommend you have the sewer line camera-scoped for potential issues with the drain line. It's usually not possible for me to run enough water in 3-4 hours to fill all these pipes to expose an issue like this. That can takes weeks of use. Please do not mistake a problem not showing up today as proof that a problem does not exist.

  • P-5 🚿 Plumbing:

    All water heater installations are to be inspected by the state plumbing inspector, who is supposed to put a dated sticker on the water heater indicating the inspector's approval of the installation.


    There is no plumbing inspection sticker present on the water heater. Consult with the seller to determine if the water heater was properly inspected and ask them to provide, in writing, the state plumbing inspector's approval of the installation or have the inspection/sticker installed as needed.

  • SB-1 🏠 Structure and Basement:

    The floor near the top of the steps upstairs has a slope that leads back toward the staircase.


    If the sloping floor concerns you, I encourage you to reach out to a contractor to evaluate the situation. While it is common for old houses to settle and lean at times, it can be an expensive repair should you choose to go that route.


  • SB-2 🏠 Structure and Basement:

    The right wall of the basement has signs of water stains in multiple locations. Someone has also applied spray foam insulation along the sill plate, which I assume was an attempt to stop the water. This is on the same side of the house as the drains that are visible, which would make sense as to why those are present.


    I am not able to tell you if this will leak or not. We are currently in a drought, and it hasn’t rained a significant amount in several weeks.


    Keep in mind that if water is allowed to reach the foundation of the house in bulk, it will very likely leak into this basement. If you wish these areas to be waterproof and never leak, you will likely need to have a full perimeter drain system installed in the basement.


    If this is something you would like to have done, I encourage you to reach out to a waterproofing contractor and have them evaluate the situation to give you some idea of the cost and scope of the repairs.

Completed Items

  • K-2 🔪 Kitchen:

    The dishwasher was run through a basic wash cycle. Everything seemed to work as it should. This was a basic function test and not a test of every cycle.

  • K-4 🔪 Kitchen:

    The range/oven was run through a basic function test. Everything seemed to work as it should. This was a basic function test and not a test of every cycle.

  • K-5 🔪 Kitchen:

    The refrigerator is keeping temperature in line with a functioning unit.

Future Projects

  • EDFW1-1 ⚡ Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

    The home is a mixture of grounded and un-grounded receptacles (mostly ungrounded). While this is typical of older homes, you want to keep in mind that most modern electronics are 3-pin grounded cords for a reason. Grounding of electrical outlets and switches has been required since the mid-1960s.


    It's a good idea to have the home upgraded to a more modern completely grounded system for the protection of you and your electronic equipment. Also, keep in mind surge protectors DO NOT work on ungrounded receptacles. They require the 3rd wire (ground conductor) to function properly. You can learn more about what it means to live in a house with ungrounded outlets here: http://abihomeservices.com/are-ungrounded-electrical-outlets-safe/

  • HCFV1-5 🔥 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

    It is very common for two story homes to only have one HVAC system installed.


    However, I find that nearly all of these single system setups struggle with cooling the upper level rooms in the summer months. Keep in mind that you may need a window/room air conditioning unit to help keep the upper level cool in the summer. Having supplemental heating may also be needed, but it's not as common as the supplemental A/C.


    Unfortunately, this is not something I am able to gauge without being in the home on a hot day with all of your belongings in place.

  • P-3 🚿 Plumbing:

    Part of the plumbing drain system is cast iron. The issue with this material is that it rusts from the inside out. This means that it could look fine on the outside, but be paper thin in reality.


    As is the case with all materials that are no longer in use, better, more reliable things have taken their place. You will eventually need to replace the cast iron when it fails, but how long that will take is unknown. Sometimes cast iron will last a very long time as it has a lifespan of 80 to 100+ years.


    FYI: You can learn more about old plumbing materials, and what you can expect from them here: http://abihomeservices.com/buying-an-old-house-the-plumbing-system/

Efficiencies

  • A2-2 🗼 Attic:

    The attic insulation could be improved to modern standards, which is a recommend R-49 in the attic. R-value is the measure of resistance to heat loss. The higher the R-value, the better the insulation. During insulation repairs it is best practice to implement any needed air seal repairs to seal air leakage. Also, be sure you have completed any wiring or other projects that are needed in the attic prior to insulating. Then, hire an insulation contractor to improve thermal barriers.


    If insulation improvement is something you think you may want to handle yourself, I have written a how-to article on properly insulating your attic that you can read here: https://abihomeservices.com/diy-guide-to-blown-in-attic-insulation/

Notes

  • GC2-2 💬 General Comments:

    It's almost certain the home contains products known to be hazardous to your health, such as lead paint and asbestos, due to the age of the building.


    You should be comfortable with the fact that it is very likely these products are present in the home, and may not be exposed in this report. If I see anything that could be a health hazard to you I will do my best to point it out. However, this is not an environmental safety inspection.


    If these types of products worry you, I encourage you to have the home tested for such environmental hazards, as that is beyond the scope of a home inspection.

  • RCG-3 🏡 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:

    The roof is not in bad condition, but I see granular loss starting to form on the shingles along the bottom edge. This happens as the shingles age. I would guess the roof is about 8-10 years old, give or take a year or two. If this is accurate, you should get another 10 or so years out of the roof. Most dimensional roofs like this one last around 20-25 years.

  • ES-1 ⚡ Electric Service:

    The electric panel is located in the basement.

  • HCFV1-4 🔥 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

    Understand that the primary function of the air filter is to protect the equipment--not your lungs. If a filter is too restrictive, the high static pressure may lead to a number of problems including burning out the fan motor or run capacitor, damage to the heat exchanger, poor efficiency, higher consumption of energy, etc.


    The same can happen when you have no filter, an improperly sized/ fitting one, or one that is the correct size but is one in which the filter rack allows the filter to flop around, causing bypass of the filter media.


    Aside from the adverse effects on a furnace, it will lead to clogging an attached evaporator coil, which inhibits airflow thus hindering performance. This often leads to overcharging and other silly attempts to "fix" the problem when the house doesn't cool or heat properly.


    Keeping a clean, well fit filter is important to the health of your HVAC system. Your filters are located at the furnace. Be sure and change them every 30-60 days (or as needed).

  • FSD1-1 ⛽ Fuel Storage and Distribution:

    The gas meter is located on the side of the house. In most areas, the homeowner is required to paint the exposed pipe to prevent it from rusting. You'll want to check with the gas company to see what your responsibilities are as the homeowner in terms of maintenance with the exposed gas pipes.

  • P-1 🚿 Plumbing:

    The main water shut-off is located along the side wall of the basement.

  • P-2 🚿 Plumbing:

    Being that the house is older (and likely has cast iron and/or clay pipes buried in the yard) I recommend that you contact Louisville Water Company and inquire about the buried water line warranty. This is a service agreement offered by the water company to help offset the cost of replacing a failed water and or waste line.


    You can learn more about this service agreement here: https://abihomeservices.com/louisville-water-buried-line-coverage/


    Once you sign up for the program, it is included in your monthly bill. Keep in mind that Home Buyer's warranties do NOT cover outside the foundation. It is not uncommon for these old pipes to fail and need to be replaced at any time. If that happens it can cost thousands to have things repaired.

  • I5-1 🔑 Interior:

    The hallway upstairs has a very narrow space between the wall and the staircase. There’s not much you can do besides rebuilding the wall to give yourself some room.

  • K-6 🔪 Kitchen:

    The home does not have a built-in microwave installed. If you wish to have one you'll need to purchase one and have it installed.

  • LF6-1 🥼 Laundry Facilities:

    As washing machines and clothes dryers are not generally transferred with the house, the operation and installation of washing machines and clothes dryers is not part of a general home inspection. If any washing machines or clothes dryers are present, I do not operate them.

    If the operation and installation of these machines is important to you, you should have someone familiar with their operation and installation check them for you.

  • RGT2-1 ☢ Radon Gas Testing:

    The home was tested for Radon gas using a Sun Nuclear 1028 continuous monitoring system.


    The overall average of pCi/l (pico Curies per Liter) was 2.1pCi/l.


    The EPA recommends mitigation (removal system) for all homes with a level of 4.0pCi/l or more. With numbers this low, it's doubtful you'll ever have elevated Radon gas levels, but it is a good idea to have the home tested every couple of years just to be on the safe side.


    You can download a full copy of your Radon test by clicking the PDF link below.

The Complete Inspection Report

💬 General Comments

Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations

Type of Building : Single Family (1 story with Basement)

Attending the Inspection: Vacant (inspector only)

Occupancy: Unoccupied, but staged with furniture

Animals Present: No

Weather during the inspection: Clear

Approximate temperature during the inspection: Over 80[F]

Ground/Soil surface conditions: Dry

Mold Testing: Mold Test NOT Performed:

(GC2-1) Due Diligence:

This home inspection is not a mold inspection of any kind. According to the EPA, mold testing/sampling is NOT needed the vast majority of the time. Here is a link to more info from the EPA on mold: EPA on mold testing.


The EPA has produced a document on mold in the home which you can download here: A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home


Any mold in a house is a symptom of a moisture problem and is not the actual problem itself. If I see anything during your inspection, I will say something in this report. That is strictly a courtesy for you. If this topic concerns you, you can speak with a true mold specialist, such as an industrial hygienist, about performing a test/inspection on the home. I would be very suspicious and cautious of any "mold contractor" who has a financial interest in performing any mold testing and/or mitigation work for you.

(GC2-2) Note:

It's almost certain the home contains products known to be hazardous to your health, such as lead paint and asbestos, due to the age of the building.


You should be comfortable with the fact that it is very likely these products are present in the home, and may not be exposed in this report. If I see anything that could be a health hazard to you I will do my best to point it out. However, this is not an environmental safety inspection.


If these types of products worry you, I encourage you to have the home tested for such environmental hazards, as that is beyond the scope of a home inspection.

🌳 Grounds

Drainage and Site

(G1-1) Repair:

The back yard has a negative slope leading back to the patio/house. This negative grade will channel water towards the structure, and in heavy rains, may reach the home's foundation. You will not be able to gauge the situation until you see how the grading handles large amounts of water, but I do suspect this will be something that needs to be addressed.


Any time water is allowed to pool or pond around the house it usually leads to foundation settlement issues, leaking, and a variety of other problems you do not want to deal with.


Have a contractor who specializes in water proofing/grading evaluate the situation and correct the grading as needed so water can't build up around the house.


(G1-2) Due Diligence:

The side yard has a drainage system installed along the right side of the house. There is water standing in the grates, and it hasn’t rained in a very long time. I do not know where this water is coming from or how well the system will work at keeping standing water away from the house.


You will want to get more detailed information from the sellers about who installed this system, and if there is any warranty that comes with the work.

Window and Stairwells

(G1-6) Safety:

The top step at the basement stairwell is a trip hazard. This several-inch lip could cause someone to trip and tumble down the staircase. Have a contractor remove this section as needed.

(G1-3) Repair:

The grading around the basement windows is too high.


Ideally, you want the ground a few inches below the sill of any window. Most of the time this is not feasible to do without re-grading the whole yard (which is costly).


The next best thing is to install window wells around the windows. This will help get the water away from the window and reduce the chance of the windows leaking into the basement.


I've attached a small diagram for reference to show you how it's done.

(G1-5) Repair:

The exterior basement well stairs are missing a graspable handrail for safety. This should be a round railing 1 and 1/4 inches - 2 inches in diameter. If the railing is not round it must have a finger groove that is 3/4 of an inch down from the tallest point of the rail. The graspable handrail should also be 1.5 inches from the wall. 2x material is not considered a graspable handrail. Have a qualified contractor build suitable railings to reduce the potential for falls.

(G1-4) Monitor:

The basement door is resting on grade with the drain at the base of the outside steps. If the drain at the bottom of the steps becomes clogged, it will likely cause water to pool and seep in under the basement door. It's very important you keep the drain cleared and free-flowing.

🏡 Roof, Chimney and Gutters

Roof Materials

(RCG-1) Repair:

The satellite dish that was bolted to the roof can lead to wood rot and deterioration due to the penetrations through the roof. Allowing an installer to place a dish on your roof is a very bad idea. This area may develop leaks as it ages, and you may have some rotted substrate plywood present when the shingles are replaced.


You can have the dish removed now and the shingles replaced, or you can wait until the entire roof needs to be replaced and deal with it at that point.

(RCG-2) Repair:

The roof assembly has multiple 'nail pops' across the front slope(s). A nail pop is when the fastener used to secure the shingles back out from the wood structure and causes the head of the nail to lift the shingle tab off of the roof. This happens during seasonal climate change as the expansion and contraction of the wood substrate can cause the shank of the nail to lift up. A handful of nail pops is not uncommon, but if you have a lot of them to deal with it can be a sign of a much larger problem.


If a nail backs out of the roof structure enough it can break the seal on the shingle, leaving them susceptible to wind damage and creating a leak with wind-driven rain. Have a roofing contractor evaluate the situation and repair the shingles as needed.

(RCG-4) Repair:

The back porch and upper back roof have asphalt rolled roofing installed as the covering. This material typically has a lifespan of about 10 years, and I see cracking beginning in areas, which is normally a precursor to needing a replacement.


It is unlikely that this covering will last the lifespan of the rest of the roof.


Have a roofing contractor take a look at the situation and give you some idea as to how long you can reasonably expect this area of the roof to last before it will have to be replaced.

(RCG-3) Note:

The roof is not in bad condition, but I see granular loss starting to form on the shingles along the bottom edge. This happens as the shingles age. I would guess the roof is about 8-10 years old, give or take a year or two. If this is accurate, you should get another 10 or so years out of the roof. Most dimensional roofs like this one last around 20-25 years.

Chimneys

(RCG-5) Repair:

The sealant around the flashing of the chimney is new in parts and old/dried up in others. This very likely may leak on you under the right wind-driven rain conditions.


Have a roofing contractor evaluate the flashing around the base of the chimney and repair/replace as needed.

(RCG-6) Repair:

The chimney crown is worn/cracked and needs to be rebuilt. The crown (technically known as a crown wash) is what caps off the top of the chimney body, and sheds the water from getting down into the chimney body. If the crown is not kept in good condition it can cause the bricks on the body of the chimney to fall apart from spalling (spalling is a type of damage that happens to masonry from freezing water).


Have a chimney sweep or masonry contractor (who is familiar with repairing chimneys) take a look at the chimney and repair it as needed. Keep in mind these repairs can get expensive, so be sure and do this prior to the end of your inspection period. I've included a detailed drawing for you to get a visual idea of what a proper crown wash looks like.


A well-built chimney crown should all have the following:


  • The top should overhang the sides of the chimney a few inches (with the bottom undercut with a drip line). This prevents water from seeping back between the crown seam and the bricks around the top portion of the chimney.


  • Crowns should be made of concrete, not mortar.


  • The crown should not physically touch the flue tiles. A bond breaker should be used around the flue tiles before the crown is installed so that when you use the fireplace the expansion of the flue tiles won't lift the crown and cause it to crack.


  • All flue tiles should have caps installed to stop bulk water from getting down inside the flues.

Gutters and Downspouts

(RCG-7) Repair:

Some of the downspouts are still draining into the old clay pipes next to the foundation. Typically, these are clogged with debris by the time a home is this age and don't carry the roof water away from the house far enough. It's a good idea to have the downspouts elbowed out at the ground and extended away on top of the ground. If you can get the roof water at least 5 feet away from the house, that will usually keep the water from causing problems in/around the house.

(RCG-8) Repair:

The gutters need more support brackets installed. They are spaced about every 4 to 5 feet currently, and you should have one every 18 to 24 inches.

🧱 Exterior Siding, Doors and Windows

Exterior Doors

(ESDW-1) Safety:

There is a sliding glass door that leads out onto the back porch roof. This is a dangerous situation as you have no fall protection on the roof itself. The door that leads out to the area is also in poor condition and has failed thermal seals on the glass.


Have the door replaced as needed, and install a railing and/or fall protection around the area for the safety of all who venture out onto the roof.

🚘 Garage

Garage General

(G-1) Major Concern:

There are several stairstep cracks in the walls of the garage that typically indicate foundation movement. You will need to have a foundation repair specialist evaluate the structure and give you some idea of the cost and scope of the repairs.


Note: The back wall of the garage is buried into the hillside and I would expect this to leak when it rains. I don’t have any idea how much it will leak, but sometimes the situation can allow a lot of water to seep through the walls of the garage.

Garage Roof

(G-2) Repair:

The gutters on the garage are clogged and need to be cleaned out so the water can flow properly.

🏡Decks, Porches and Balconies

Decks, Porches and Balconies

(DPB5-1) Health & Safety:

The front porch is high enough that you'll want to have a guardrail installed around the porch cap and a handrail down the steps. A fall from this height could injure someone, especially children or the elderly. Speak with a qualified contractor about installing the proper railing on all sides of the porch.

⚡ Electric Service

Electric Service Equipment

(ES-1) Note:

The electric panel is located in the basement.

Sub Panel

(ES-2) Repair:

Currently, all sub-panels are required to be fed with four wires (two hots, a neutral, and a ground). The sub-panel here appears to be a three-wire feed. A new four-wire feed to the sub-panel should be installed for improved safety. I recommend further evaluation and repair by a licensed electrical contractor. On sub-panels it is important that neutrals and equipment grounds be separated to control stray voltage. To accomplish this, you generally need a four-wire feed. There are some cases where three-wire feeds can be used for outbuildings, but never when the sub-panel is located within the same structure.

⚡ Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring

Receptacles and Fixtures

(EDFW1-1) Future Project:

The home is a mixture of grounded and un-grounded receptacles (mostly ungrounded). While this is typical of older homes, you want to keep in mind that most modern electronics are 3-pin grounded cords for a reason. Grounding of electrical outlets and switches has been required since the mid-1960s.


It's a good idea to have the home upgraded to a more modern completely grounded system for the protection of you and your electronic equipment. Also, keep in mind surge protectors DO NOT work on ungrounded receptacles. They require the 3rd wire (ground conductor) to function properly. You can learn more about what it means to live in a house with ungrounded outlets here: http://abihomeservices.com/are-ungrounded-electrical-outlets-safe/

Ceiling Fans

(EDFW1-2) Repair:

The ceiling fan on the back patio is not functioning and the blades are drooping because this is not an exterior-rated fan.


Have an electrician evaluate the situation and replace the ceiling fan as needed.

Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm Systems

Smoke Detectors

Carbon Monoxide Detectors

(EDFW1-3) Due Diligence:

In accordance with home inspection industry standards, I do not test smoke detectors as simply pressing the button doesn't give you any real data on how well the unit will work in a real fire. However, they are an important safety feature that must not be overlooked, and it is important to make sure that there are functional detectors installed at all required locations prior to occupying the premises. Unless the smoke detectors are newly installed I strongly encourage you to install new ones throughout the home when you move in. You can buy a 3-pack for around $30 on Amazon. Link to Smoke Detectors

(EDFW1-4) Due Diligence:

Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless, and tasteless gas that is poisonous to humans. It is known as the “silent killer” because humans cannot tell when they are around it, but it can be very dangerous and deadly if the levels get high enough.


The carbon monoxide detector is a safety device that can alert homeowners of a CO leak and help them escape a potentially life-threatening situation, like carbon monoxide poisoning.


What does a carbon monoxide detector do? 


Carbon monoxide alarms detect the poisonous gas and provide early warning. In the event of a carbon monoxide leak, it is critical that you get to fresh air as soon as possible. Every second counts, and a detector can provide you and your family the advanced warning necessary to escape your home during an emergency.


What are the main sources of carbon monoxide leaks?


Carbon monoxide can be produced by any fuel-burning device. Three main sources are your home’s furnace, dryer vent in a drying machine, and fireplace or chimney. It is important to have these sources regularly serviced and cleaned by a professional to help prevent a CO leak that could lead to carbon monoxide poisoning.


Because of the seriousness of carbon monoxide risk, I encourage you to replace or install new carbon monoxide detectors in the recommended areas.


You should not leave old or currently installed carbon monoxide detectors in place. Most manufacturers list their life expectancy at about five years, and it's simply not worth the risk of leaving an old or pre-existing carbon monoxide detector in place.


There are several different types of CO detectors available. Some are hardwired like this one: Hardwired CO Monitor and some plug into a receptacle for easy installation like this one; Wall Mount CO Monitor


You can also get some units that will alert you of carbon monoxide at a much lower level then some of the cheaper models. While these more sensitive units do cost more, they will alert you to a potential issue much sooner. Low Level CO Monitor.

🔥 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation

Heating and Cooling General Information

(HCFV1-2) Repair:

The air-conditioning system was running and then shut off and made a clicking noise like a relay was coming in an out of contact. I do not know what is causing this, but I did capture the event on video.


Have an HVAC technician evaluate the system and repair as needed.

(HCFV1-1) Due Diligence:

If you are getting 'home warranty coverage' (either buying one or the seller is providing one) it is vital you have their company's 'approved' contractor perform an inspection and service the HVAC system before they place the unit under coverage.


This will help prevent the warranty company from claiming a problem down the road was a pre-existing condition (which I'm told they are known for doing). Having a service letter from the same contractor makes it very difficult to have a claim denied when a problem arises.

Vents and Flues

(HCFV1-3) Repair:

There are streaks running down the flue pipe on the furnace, which is a sign of poor venting and that flue gases are condensing and running back in before they have time to escape into the atmosphere.


When natural gas burns, the byproducts are mostly water, sulfur and nitrogen (acid). If the gas can't rise up out of the stack and dissipate into the air, it condenses on the inside of the vent pipe and then drains back to the furnace. The white residue is the mineral salts left over after the acid reacts with the zinc in the galvanized coating on the pipe.


Have an HVAC tech take a look at it and repair as needed. There could be a blockage in the flue pipe or the wrong size flue pipe could have been used. The system may need to be tuned (gas pressures adjusted), the inducer fan may be faulty, or it could be many other things causing the unit to vent incorrectly.

Air Filters

(HCFV1-4) Note:

Understand that the primary function of the air filter is to protect the equipment--not your lungs. If a filter is too restrictive, the high static pressure may lead to a number of problems including burning out the fan motor or run capacitor, damage to the heat exchanger, poor efficiency, higher consumption of energy, etc.


The same can happen when you have no filter, an improperly sized/ fitting one, or one that is the correct size but is one in which the filter rack allows the filter to flop around, causing bypass of the filter media.


Aside from the adverse effects on a furnace, it will lead to clogging an attached evaporator coil, which inhibits airflow thus hindering performance. This often leads to overcharging and other silly attempts to "fix" the problem when the house doesn't cool or heat properly.


Keeping a clean, well fit filter is important to the health of your HVAC system. Your filters are located at the furnace. Be sure and change them every 30-60 days (or as needed).

Cooling Systems and Heat Pumps

Air Conditioning / Heat Pump: Air Conditioning Present

Data Plate: Shown here

Description:

The data plate for the outdoor condensing unit is here.

Heating and Cooling Distribution Systems

(HCFV1-5) Future Project:

It is very common for two story homes to only have one HVAC system installed.


However, I find that nearly all of these single system setups struggle with cooling the upper level rooms in the summer months. Keep in mind that you may need a window/room air conditioning unit to help keep the upper level cool in the summer. Having supplemental heating may also be needed, but it's not as common as the supplemental A/C.


Unfortunately, this is not something I am able to gauge without being in the home on a hot day with all of your belongings in place.

Gas Fireplaces

(HCFV1-6) Repair:

I could not get the gas fireplace to function. You'll want to have the sellers show you how to work the unit or have it repaired as needed.

⛽ Fuel Storage and Distribution

Gas Meter

(FSD1-1) Note:

The gas meter is located on the side of the house. In most areas, the homeowner is required to paint the exposed pipe to prevent it from rusting. You'll want to check with the gas company to see what your responsibilities are as the homeowner in terms of maintenance with the exposed gas pipes.

Gas and Propane Line Material

(FSD1-2) Health & Safety:

The yellow flexible gas line is a product known as CSST (Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing). CSST has had problems in the past on homes that were struck by lightning or had lightning strikes near them. The thin, flexible wall of the product is not strong enough to handle a strike’s energy and can fail/rupture because of transient arcing.


According to the manufacturers, all installations of CSST should be properly bonded to the home's electrical ground system to help supply a path for the energy to go in case of an incident. You should contact an electrician who is familiar with CSST and who knows how to properly correct the install for your own safety.


You can learn more about CSST here: http://www.csstsafety.com/CSST-lightning.html


I've written an article that explains the risk of un-bonded CSST in detail. You can read that here: https://abihomeservices.com/csst-installation-bonding-requirements/

🚿 Plumbing

Main Water Service Line

Main Water Shut-Off: Basement

(P-1) Note:

The main water shut-off is located along the side wall of the basement.

Waste Pipe and Discharge

(P-4) Due Diligence:

The main plumbing drain/waste line is likely still the original cast iron/clay pipe from the house to the sewer connection at the street. These old pipes can break/crack in the yard. Tree roots can also make their way into these cracks creating blockages. Given the age of the home, I highly recommend you have the sewer line camera-scoped for potential issues with the drain line. It's usually not possible for me to run enough water in 3-4 hours to fill all these pipes to expose an issue like this. That can takes weeks of use. Please do not mistake a problem not showing up today as proof that a problem does not exist.

(P-3) Future Project:

Part of the plumbing drain system is cast iron. The issue with this material is that it rusts from the inside out. This means that it could look fine on the outside, but be paper thin in reality.


As is the case with all materials that are no longer in use, better, more reliable things have taken their place. You will eventually need to replace the cast iron when it fails, but how long that will take is unknown. Sometimes cast iron will last a very long time as it has a lifespan of 80 to 100+ years.


FYI: You can learn more about old plumbing materials, and what you can expect from them here: http://abihomeservices.com/buying-an-old-house-the-plumbing-system/

(P-2) Note:

Being that the house is older (and likely has cast iron and/or clay pipes buried in the yard) I recommend that you contact Louisville Water Company and inquire about the buried water line warranty. This is a service agreement offered by the water company to help offset the cost of replacing a failed water and or waste line.


You can learn more about this service agreement here: https://abihomeservices.com/louisville-water-buried-line-coverage/


Once you sign up for the program, it is included in your monthly bill. Keep in mind that Home Buyer's warranties do NOT cover outside the foundation. It is not uncommon for these old pipes to fail and need to be replaced at any time. If that happens it can cost thousands to have things repaired.

Water Heater

Manufacturer: Bradford-White

System Type: Tank

Size: 50 gal

Age: Bradford White (P = 2017)

Energy Source: Gas

(P-5) Due Diligence:

All water heater installations are to be inspected by the state plumbing inspector, who is supposed to put a dated sticker on the water heater indicating the inspector's approval of the installation.


There is no plumbing inspection sticker present on the water heater. Consult with the seller to determine if the water heater was properly inspected and ask them to provide, in writing, the state plumbing inspector's approval of the installation or have the inspection/sticker installed as needed.

Water Temperature

Water Temperature Measured During Inspection: 113 Degrees F

(P-6) Repair:

The water heater temperature was set too low at the time of inspection - just 113 degrees F. The range of 120-125 degrees F is the generally recommended temperature. Adjust water heater temperature as needed. For best practice, set water temperature at the water heater to 130 degrees F and use a tempering valve to set water temp back to a safe 120 for domestic use. This high tank temperature will reduce the risks of Legionella developing in the tank.

🔑 Interior

Walls, Ceilings, Trim, Hallways and Closets

Wall and Ceiling Materials: Drywall

(I5-2) Repair:

There is a water stain on the ceiling in the closet of the master bedroom.


I scanned the stain after running the water upstairs for 30 minutes and did not find elevated levels of moisture. As far as I can tell, the leak has been corrected and what we are seeing is the old damage that was never repaired.

(I5-1) Note:

The hallway upstairs has a very narrow space between the wall and the staircase. There’s not much you can do besides rebuilding the wall to give yourself some room.

Stairs and Railings

(I5-3) Safety:

The ends of the handrail should return to the wall to prevent clothing or accessories from catching on the end of the railing and creating a trip hazard.

Windows

(I5-4) Repair:

The old wood windows are in typical condition for a house this age. Some of them are hard to open (layers of paint), some of them have broken sash cords, some have cracked panes of glass, and some have counter weights that don't work.


These types of problems are to be expected in old houses. You'll need to have each window evaluated and repaired as needed.

Indoor Air Quality

(I5-5) Health & Safety:

The home's Carbon Monoxide level was checked with a calibrated Sensorcon Industrial PRO Carbon Monoxide Gas Monitor. The level maxed out at 1ppm.


Keep in mind this level of carbon monoxide is not dangerous for you, but it is an indication of a gas appliance emitting CO into the home.


Have an HVAC contractor check the gas appliances and repair/replace things as needed for your safety.

🔪 Kitchen

Disposers

(K-1) Safety:

The electrical cable feeding power to the garbage disposal should be in conduit for safety. You don't want electrical lines exposed where people can grab them or where they can be damaged by someone. Have an electrician evaluate the situation and repair the power cable for the disposer as they see fit.

Dishwasher

(K-3) Repair:

An air gap is recommended to protect the dishwasher from accidental contamination if the sewer line were to back up. If an air gap cannot be installed, at least run the drain line above the level of the sink drain to create a high loop. This is an older way of protecting the dishwasher. Hire a licensed plumber to install an air gap.

(K-2) Completed:

The dishwasher was run through a basic wash cycle. Everything seemed to work as it should. This was a basic function test and not a test of every cycle.

Ranges, Ovens and Cooktops

(K-4) Completed:

The range/oven was run through a basic function test. Everything seemed to work as it should. This was a basic function test and not a test of every cycle.

Refrigerators

(K-5) Completed:

The refrigerator is keeping temperature in line with a functioning unit.

Built-In Microwave

(K-6) Note:

The home does not have a built-in microwave installed. If you wish to have one you'll need to purchase one and have it installed.

🥼 Laundry Facilities

General Info

(LF6-1) Note:

As washing machines and clothes dryers are not generally transferred with the house, the operation and installation of washing machines and clothes dryers is not part of a general home inspection. If any washing machines or clothes dryers are present, I do not operate them.

If the operation and installation of these machines is important to you, you should have someone familiar with their operation and installation check them for you.

🛁 Family Bathroom

Toilet

(FB-1) Repair:

The toilet is loose and not secured to the floor. Loose toilets can leak around the seal and cause the floor to rot over time (as well as leak toilet water). Sometimes it is a simple fix and tightening the floor bolts takes care of the issue. Have a plumber take a look and repair as needed.


Keep in mind they may need to pull the toilet out and check the closet flange for damage. Make the necessary repairs and re-install the toilet with a new wax ring. You also occasionally run into rotten subfloor under the toilet and things can get expensive to repair, but you can't know that until the toilet has been removed and the floors have been checked for damage.

🚻 Main Bathroom

Bathtub / Shower

(MB-1) Repair:

The drain strainer in the bathtub has rusted away and needs to be replaced. Have a plumber take a look at the situation and repair the drain assembly as needed.

(MB-2) Repair:

The valves in the lower bathroom are leaking at the shower. Have a plumber repair/replace the valves as needed.

🗼 Attic

Attic Access

(A2-1) Repair:

The attic access hatch cover is not air sealed and doesn't have any insulation on its backside. Areas like these can be a big ding to the efficiency of the home. You'll want to have the hatch sealed with weather stripping, and have ridged insulation placed on the back of the sheet goods that cover the hole. I've written a how-to guide on this subject that you can read here: http://abihomeservices.com/insulating-your-attic-access-hole/

Attic Insulation

(A2-3) Improve:

There are several spots of thin/missing insulation that are visible under thermal imaging. Gaps and voids in your insulation coverage will cost you money and comfort 24-7-365. It's a good idea to have a contractor who utilizes thermography to help identify problem areas and correct things as needed. I've also written a DIY How-to guide on properly insulating your attic if you wish to tackle this yourself. You can read that here: https://abihomeservices.com/diy-guide-to-blown-in-attic-insulation/

(A2-2) Efficiency:

The attic insulation could be improved to modern standards, which is a recommend R-49 in the attic. R-value is the measure of resistance to heat loss. The higher the R-value, the better the insulation. During insulation repairs it is best practice to implement any needed air seal repairs to seal air leakage. Also, be sure you have completed any wiring or other projects that are needed in the attic prior to insulating. Then, hire an insulation contractor to improve thermal barriers.


If insulation improvement is something you think you may want to handle yourself, I have written a how-to article on properly insulating your attic that you can read here: https://abihomeservices.com/diy-guide-to-blown-in-attic-insulation/

🏠 Structure and Basement

Floor, Wall and Ceiling Framing

(SB-1) Due Diligence:

The floor near the top of the steps upstairs has a slope that leads back toward the staircase.


If the sloping floor concerns you, I encourage you to reach out to a contractor to evaluate the situation. While it is common for old houses to settle and lean at times, it can be an expensive repair should you choose to go that route.


Basement Moisture

(SB-2) Due Diligence:

The right wall of the basement has signs of water stains in multiple locations. Someone has also applied spray foam insulation along the sill plate, which I assume was an attempt to stop the water. This is on the same side of the house as the drains that are visible, which would make sense as to why those are present.


I am not able to tell you if this will leak or not. We are currently in a drought, and it hasn’t rained a significant amount in several weeks.


Keep in mind that if water is allowed to reach the foundation of the house in bulk, it will very likely leak into this basement. If you wish these areas to be waterproof and never leak, you will likely need to have a full perimeter drain system installed in the basement.


If this is something you would like to have done, I encourage you to reach out to a waterproofing contractor and have them evaluate the situation to give you some idea of the cost and scope of the repairs.

☢ Radon Gas Testing

Radon Test Results

(RGT2-1) Note:

The home was tested for Radon gas using a Sun Nuclear 1028 continuous monitoring system.


The overall average of pCi/l (pico Curies per Liter) was 2.1pCi/l.


The EPA recommends mitigation (removal system) for all homes with a level of 4.0pCi/l or more. With numbers this low, it's doubtful you'll ever have elevated Radon gas levels, but it is a good idea to have the home tested every couple of years just to be on the safe side.


You can download a full copy of your Radon test by clicking the PDF link below.

Receipt -- The Complete Inspection Report

Report # 220710B
Inspection Date: 2022-07-10

Property inspected for:
Sara Evans
234 Somewhere Lane Louisville, KY 40205

Home Inspection$500.00
Radon Test$150.00
Termite Inspection$75.00
$725.00
PAID

Signed Contracts