The following applies to vacant properties. Most often, vacant properties have little to no historical property condition report, and the problems/risk of repair is often increased by how a home performs when not in normal use. Also recognized that no disclosure data has been shared with us prior to the inspection.

Some systems and components of vacant and/or abandoned homes, such as piping, wiring and appliances that have not been used during real-life conditions, could fail without warning. Know that while some systems and components are reported as "working at the time of inspection," may, in fact, fail. It is difficult to know how they will respond to regular use after having sat for extended periods of time. Septic systems may initially function and then fail under a live load. Plumbing traps may operate with no signs of leaks and then let go when being actively used for a few days. Drains that operated during an inspection after real-life conditions may indicate blockage. Component seals may dry up and later leak. Sewer lines could take a few days to backup because of roots or other elements that allow test water to flow, only to fail when waste and tissue are flushed through the system.

For these and similar reasons - be aware that the risk of component failure is greater in these type homes.

In the report, there may be specific references to areas and items that were inaccessible or only partly accessible. Suspended ceilings for example would be one of those conditions. I can make no representations regarding conditions that may be present in these areas but were concealed or inaccessible for review. With access and an opportunity for inspection, reportable conditions or hidden damage may be found in these areas. If a request is made by the client for a second inspection, an additional fee will be charged.

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• crawlspace or sections of the crawlspace
• attic

We make no representations as to the extent or presence of code violations, nor do we warrant the legal use of this building. This information would have to be obtained from the local building and/or zoning department.

👉Several photos are included in your inspection report. These photos are for informational purposes only and do not attempt to show every instance or occurrence of a defect.

When repairs are made on the home, I recommend that I be called back to verify that corrections have been satisfactorily made. A minimum assessment of $195.00 will be charged for each Work Order Evaluation Inspection that is requested that I conduct. Additional charges will accrue for anything in writing, beyond an email response, and for evaluations at more than 20 miles travel time—these costs are to be agreed upon at the time of the request for further evaluation. REMEDIAL WORK - For any element or condition requiring attention, quotes should be obtained before closing from qualified specialists or contractors to determine actual repair/replacement costs. Any cost estimates provided, whether oral or written, represent only an approximation of possible costs. Also, any cost estimates do not reflect all possible remedial needs or costs for the property; latent concerns or consequential damage may exist. If the need for remedial work develops or is uncovered after the inspection, contact Proview Professional Home Inspections to arrange an inspection to assess conditions before performing any repairs.

IF THERE ARE ITEMS WITHIN THIS REPORT THAT REQUIRE RE-INSPECTION, YOU ARE ENCOURAGED TO HAVE ME COMMUNICATE DIRECTLY WITH THOSE HIRED TO MAKE THE CORRECTIONS TO ENSURE THAT REPAIRS ARE PROPERLY MADE.

There are many things that can be done to improve safety and living conditions within any home. While many of these issues come to light in the course of the Standard Home Inspection there are likely to be other things that can be done to improve the home.

Structures built prior to the mid 1980s may contain lead and/or asbestos. Lead is commonly found in paint and in some plumbing components. The EPA does not recognize newer coats of paint as encapsulating older coats of lead-based paint. Asbestos is commonly found in various building materials such as insulation, siding, and/or floor and ceiling tiles. Laws were passed in 1978 to prohibit usage of lead and asbestos, but stocks of materials containing these substances remained in use for a number of years thereafter. Both lead and asbestos are known health hazards. Evaluating for the presence of lead and/or asbestos is beyond the scope of this inspection. Any mention of these materials in this report is made as a courtesy only, and meant to refer the client to a specialist. Consult with specialists as necessary, such as industrial hygienists, professional labs and/or abatement specialists for this type of evaluation.

Solid conductor aluminum wiring was used in residential construction for 15 and 20-amp circuits in the 1960's through the 1970's. This wiring has proven to be problematic and a fire hazard, primarily due to problems with loose connections and metal fatigue. I looked hard to find any signs of solid conductor aluminum here. No signs were found. There is always a chance that solid conductor aluminum wiring exists and is concealed from view. If this wiring is ever uncovered during subsequent renovation work, I recommend removal and replacement.

🧭For the purpose of this report, all directions are given as if you are standing facing the front of the house. Items listed as multiple locations may not directly reference all affected locations. Examples may be given that should not be construed as the only affected areas. Further evaluation will need to take place to determine every affected location.

A traditional home is the most common style in the United States. It is a mix of many classic, simple designs typical of the country's many regions. Common features include little ornamentation, simple rooflines, symmetrically spaced windows. A typical traditional home is Colonial, Georgian, Cape Cod saltbox, some ranches.

Complimentary photos provided when at the inspection.

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• Photos represent the roof and attic at the time of the inspection.

The roof on this building is done in an older dimensional grade composition shingle. These shingles are often rated as 30 year shingles, but in practice, as a roof assembly, I find that 18-22 years is more realistic, depending on the quality of the installation, the steepness of the roof and the exposure. This roof is roughly middle-aged and seems to be performing well to date. No visible evidence of repairs is needed at this time. Examples of observations noted during inspection includes:

Aluminum gutters do not rust but they dent easily, particularly with tall, heavy ladders. Joints in aluminum gutters are usually riveted together and caulked. The caulking must be renewed every few years. Aluminum gutters usually have very few joints, since the gutters are typically fabricated on the job site from long rolls of aluminum stock. Aluminum gutter is also pre-finished and does not require regular painting. Life expectancy is estimated to be 20 to 25 years.

Four-inch gutters are good for relatively small roof areas; however, five-inch gutters are preferred because of their additional capacity. Five-inch gutters are also less likely to allow water to overshoot the gutters when the water is draining off a steeply pitched roof. While "rules of thumb" for both gutter size and number of downspouts needed often are based simply on the length of roof edge that is being drained, this approach is flawed in that it fails to consider the total roof area that is being drained. A roof that is very small in total area, even if very long, may get along just fine with a smaller 4-inch gutter, while a much larger roof area with the same length of roof eaves needs a 5-inch gutter or larger.

Attic insulation is extremely important as it prevents most heat loss from your home during the winter months. The recommended amount of insulation present has increased over the years.

To choose the best insulation for your home from the many types of insulation on the market, you'll need to know where you want or need to install the insulation, and what R-value you want the installation to achieve. Other considerations may include indoor air quality impacts, life cycle costs, recycled content, embodied energy, and ease of installation, especially if you plan to do the installation yourself. Some insulation strategies require professional installation, while homeowners can easily handle others. Source - Energy.gov

Fiberglass insulation is one of the most common insulation materials available and is made from threads of glass glued together with phenolic resins. It is available in batt form, rigid board and loose fill. It is resistant to moisture, mildew, fungus and vermin, and some types are non-combustible. It is, however, a skin and eye irritant and inhaling small threads of fiberglass is not healthy. These irritations are only common during installation, and once the material is in place it is not considered to be a problem.

To maintain proper drainage away from the structure, soil adjacent to the foundation should slope at least 1 inch per foot for five feet away from the building. Paved areas should slope at least 1/4 inch per foot. Control of surface drainage is critical to keeping basements and crawl spaces dry. A clearance of 6 inches should be maintained from the soil to the bottom of wood siding or trim on the home, unless the material is pressure treated wood or other material approved for ground contact. Swales around homes can help manage water and reduce its impact on the home.

Brick may be made of clay or concrete. The characteristics of brick vary dramatically. Some brick surfaces are relatively soft and erode with time. Other bricks are extremely hard. Some can be easily damaged by mechanical action; others may crack due to water penetration and freeze-thaw action. Some bricks are highly porous; others are less so. Some bricks have a hard glazed outer surface; others are uniform throughout. Most bricks are not designed to be in contact with the soil and should be kept at least four inches above grade.

All surfaces of the envelope of the house should be inspected at least semi-annually, and maintained as needed. Any exterior element defect can result in leakage and/or subsequent damage. Exterior wood elements and wood composites are particularly susceptible to water-related damage, including decay, insect infestation, and mold. The use of proper treated lumber or alternative products may help minimize these concerns, but will not eliminate them altogether. While some areas of decay or damage may be reported, additional areas of concern may exist, subsequently develop, or be discovered during repair or maintenance work.

The 'Security' of any home is never absolute. At the time of inspection I assess the 'basic functionality' of door and window locking mechanisms. No assessment of the individual or overall effectiveness of security is implied. Glass, frames, locks and other elements can be prone to 'tampering’ and are 'limiting factors' of locking mechanisms/systems. All security devices and systems must be balanced against the ease of escape in the event of emergency. Concerns about the home s overall security system should be addressed by a licensed home security company. It is our advice to you that once you move in is to replace all exterior locks for your safety.

A storm door on the outside of your exterior door is installed, doors located in direct sunlight will get much more heat than those on the shaded areas, make sure it is ventilated. If the storm door is not ventilated it can cause heat to build up around your door and will potentially warp the door or damage the trim around the glass insert. If you have a storm door that does not have proper ventilation, your warranty will be void.

Complimentary photos provided when at the inspection.

The overhead garage door is the largest and heaviest moving object in a house. According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), approximately 4 children die each year from accidents caused by garage doors. Many more children have suffered brain damage or other serious injuries when the closing garage door contacts them, and fails to stop/reverse its direction. A typical garage door weighs anywhere from 155 to 400 pounds, but wooden garage doors can weigh even more. During times of wet weather, wooden garage doors can even absorb about 50 pounds of water from the air. This extra weight can cause additional wear and tear on the garage door opener. As the occupant, you will become accustomed to the noises associated with the operation of your garage door and opener. If any changes occur with the squeaks and chattering most garage door systems make, it is essential to take action promptly. Consult a qualified service technician and never attempt to make adjustments to the door springs and cables yourself.

The gas meter is typically the property of the local utility. All concerns regarding the meter should be directed to the gas utility.

• Where the gas pipe comes out of the ground to the meter there is often a Yellow (usually) Tracer wire. This wire is not supposed to be connected to anything and is only there to assist anyone trying to locate the underground plastic pipe out to the street.

This house has an L.P. Gas forced air furnace. The key to all combustion equipment like this is the heat exchanger. This is the welded clam-shell piece of metal inside the furnace that contains the products of combustion so that moisture, carbon monoxide, and other products of combustion do not mix with interior air and get safely vented to the exterior. Heat exchanges on modern furnaces have an average life expectancy of 15-20 years. Unfortunately, heat exchangers are buried inside heating equipment; they are not visible and specifically excluded from a home inspection. The risk of using older gas equipment is you could get a crack and the heat exchanger and never even be aware of it. Be sure you have operable carbon monoxide alarms inside the house, and consider updating these forced air furnaces on a roughly 20-year schedule.

This house has a gas forced air furnace. A critical component to all combustion equipment like this is the heat exchanger. This is the welded clam-shell piece of metal inside the furnace that contains the products of combustion so that moisture, carbon monoxide and other products of combustion do not mix with interior air and get safely vented to the exterior. Heat exchangers on modern furnaces have an average life expectancy of 15-20 years. Unfortunately, heat exchangers are buried inside of heating equipment; they are not visible and specifically excluded from a home inspection.

The observation of the HVAC system data plate information provides valuable documentation for the building's maintenance and operation. This information can assist in tracking system performance, scheduling maintenance activities, and making informed decisions regarding system upgrades or replacements.

The data plate information was collected from the visible data plates on the HVAC systems.

• Some of the systems may require further investigation to obtain additional data plate information.
• The capacity and efficiency ratings may vary depending on the operating conditions.
• Refer to the manufacturer's documentation for complete system specifications.

Recommendations:

Based on the data collected, it is recommended to:

• Keep a record of the data plate information for future reference.
• Regularly inspect and maintain the HVAC systems to ensure optimal performance and efficiency.
• Consider upgrading or replacing older systems with more energy-efficient models to improve energy savings and reduce operational costs.

Before the 1950s, supply pipes were usually galvanized steel, joined by threaded fittings, but steel pipes corrode and corrosion constricts the flow. In the 1970s and 1980s, several types of rigid plastic pipes were introduced for indoor water supply, with mixed success. PB (polybutylene) piping was plagued by deterioration and leaks and so was discontinued, PVC is allowed as drainpipe but not as supply, and chlorinated polyvinyl chloride (CVPC) supply pipe is accepted by some building codes and spurned by others.

These days, the most common material is flexible cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) piping. In contrast to the trunk-and-branch distribution common to rigid piping, PEX tubing systems feature a 3/4" in. main water line that feeds into a manifold, out of which small supply lines run directly to fixtures. Because it doesn’t rely on large pipes to distribute water, PEX delivers hot water quickly to fixtures, saving water and energy. And as copper gets ever more expensive, PEX looks better and better.

water meter is located in this photo for your information

Cast Iron pipes are widely known for their high resistance to corrosion and consequent longevity. They are so durable, some of them last for as long as a century. For this reason, cast iron pipes are generally used for city water distribution systems.

Cast iron is made from pig iron – the rawest, and most impure form of metal there is. Because of its impurities, however, pig iron is weak and difficult to mould into other shapes. The process of manufacture into cast iron, thus, involves reheating in a furnace and pouring into moulds to achieve desired shapes.

Cast iron pipes are particularly resistant to corrosion because they are coated in bitumen for protection. This also improves its hydraulic qualities.

The usual length of the pipe is 12ft. Lengths of up to 20ft can, however, be obtained. Cast iron pipes usually have heavy thickness, to withstand pressures of up to 350psi. It should be noted that despite the pipe’s resilience, this value reduces over the years the pipe spends functioning.

A Sewer Clean Out Is The Location Where A Home’s Sewer Line Can Be Accessed For The Purpose Of Clearing Clogs. Clean outs typically have a screw-off, removable cap. From that access point, sewer line clearing machines can go both under the house or toward the city sewer line to find and clear the clog. In DFW newer homes have a sewer main clean out access located in the lawn.

Domestic water heaters provide hot water to the faucets and appliances. Most water heaters are conventional storage-type heaters, where heated water is stored in a large tank. Whether heated by gas, propane, oil or electricity, all conventional water heaters work the same way. Cold water enters the tank, and heated water leaves the tank. The heated water temperature is typically 120 to 140° F.

Overhead service drops may be attached to the side of the building, and come down to the electric meter in a conduit (or cable), again along the outside of the building. On shorter buildings, they sometimes come in above the roofline and enter an electrical mast that sticks up above the roof. The wires go into the mast, which forms a conduit, again running down the outside of the building.

During a home or property inspection, every effort is made to inspect the visible components of the electrical system grounding. The grounding system is critical for safely discharging electrical surges, especially in the case of lightning strikes. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of the grounding system as much of the system is not visible and there are not practical tests one can perform in the way we can test a furnace or a plumbing fixture. However, there are many things that can lead me to recommend further evaluation of the grounding system by a licensed electrical contractor and they will be documented in the observations below if discovered.

The main electrical service panel was a type 1, rated for indoor use primarily to provide a degree of protection against limited amounts of falling dirt.

The service disconnect was independent of the "main" interior panel, and this panel containing the service disconnect is considered the service equipment. This renders the "main" panel in the home to a distribution panel. The distribution panel will be inspected to determine that the proper rules for distribution panels were followed. 

The service box includes a circuit breaker that can be used to shut off all the power in the house (newer), or a switch with a handle located on the outside, and the service fuses inside (older). This is your emergency shut-off for all the electricity in the home. The service box may stand alone, although in modern homes, a combination panel (service panel) is common. This includes the breakers for the individual branch circuits.

The branch wiring was inspected at visible portions looking for any significant deficiencies or defects that could be a fire and/or safety hazard; including but not limited to: connections made outside of a junction box, wiring terminations, open junction boxes, damage, the wiring material, improper support, etc. The majority of branch feeders are not visible due to being behind wall and ceiling coverings, insulation, etc. No significant deficiencies were visibly present at the time of inspection unless otherwise noted in this report. 

Branch circuit wiring installed in buildings built prior to the mid 1980s is typically rated for a maximum temperature of only 60 degrees Celsius (140 degrees Fahrenheit). This includes non‐metallic sheathed (Romex) wiring, and both BX and AC metal‐clad flexible wiring. Knob and tube wiring, typically installed in homes built prior to 1950, may be rated for even lower maximum temperatures. Newer electric fixtures including lighting and fans typically require wiring rated for 90 degrees Celsius. Connecting newer fixtures to older, 60‐degree‐rated wiring is a potential fire hazard. Repairs for such conditions may involve replacing the last few feet of wiring to newer fixtures with new 90‐degree‐rated wire, and installing a junction box to join the old and new wiring. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if such incompatible components are installed, or to determine the extent to which they're installed. Based on the age of this building, the client should be aware of this safety hazard, both for existing fixtures and when planning to upgrade with newer fixtures. The use of CFL and LED type light bulbs can greatly reduce any risk associated with the temperature ratings of the wire in the home. Consult with a qualified electrician for repairs as necessary.

Doorbells are powered by low-voltage transformers that often fail (see photo of bell transformer). The bell itself also can fail, as can the switch. These three items cost only a few dollars each and should be checked by an electrician and replaced as necessary. However, if the output wires or wires to the button switch are bad, many hours can be required to find and correct the problem. The voltage on these wires is low enough so that the homeowner can safely work on them.

AFCI breakers were not present in the electrical panel or all Sleeping rooms and were not required on homes built prior to 2004-2008, depending on the local municipality. The installation of AFCI breakers is recommended as an upgrade for circuits servicing bedrooms and living areas due to their ability to sense damage to wiring and "shut off" if an arc is detected in conductors or at connections. A licensed electrician can be consulted for more information. It may not be possible to install AFCI breakers in some older panels - upgrading the panel should be considered in these situations.

At the time of inspection Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors are not tested. I recommend that prior to move-in, that all Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors be tested and have their batteries replaced. It is recommended that Carbon Monoxide detectors that are older than 10 years should be replaced by a licensed electrical contractor if they are hard-wired: and replaced by the homeowner/handy-person if they are battery operated.

• For optimum safety. Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors are required in the immediate vicinity of bedrooms and on each floor level of the home and inside of any sleeping room if there is a gas appliance in the room. 'Immediate vicinity' is not defined but most manufacturers recommend they be installed between 5 and 20 feet of sleeping rooms. Alarm/detectors must be maintained free of dust and debris which can interfere with operation. They should be installed per manufacturer s instructions. While it is primarily fuel burning appliances the produce carbon monoxide. CO is also produced from electric appliances like toasters and ranges (especially ovens on self clean cycle).
• Please be aware that residential Carbon Monoxide detectors are cumulative and are designed to not sound with low levels of carbon monoxide. Some people are more susceptible than others to low levels of carbon monoxide and I consider it prudent to familiarize yourself with the symptoms/warning signs of Carbon Monoxide. Detectors that meet the UL-2034 requirements for detectors installed in residential construction are not allowed to sound at continuous CO levels up to 30 ppm. 70 ppm for 4 hours. 150 ppm for up to SO minutes and 400 ppm for up to 1S minutes. CARBON MONOXIDE
• Combination type alarms can be problematic even while meeting legal requirements ' for installation. Carbon Monoxide detectors in conjunction with Ionization type smoke detectors is problematic due to the poor ion technology (see links under smoke alarms previous to this section). The devices also can have different life spans. For best protection, combination type alarms should not be used, even though this is a standard recommendation of manufacturers. The International Association of Fire Fighters (IAFF) specifically recommends against installing combination alarms. Combination type alarms are required to be UL-217 and UL-2034 listed.

Standard flush toilets have a flush rate of 1.6 gallons per flush - which is less than 50% of the water used by older 3.5 gallons per flush toilets. Due to advances in hydraulic designs, these 1.6 gallons per flush toilets work as well, and in some cases even better than older toilets in terms of bulk removal and reducing clogs.

Exhaust fans are recommended in all bathrooms, and are more important where a bathroom does not have an operable window.

The fan should discharge directly to the building exterior. In many cases, the fan terminates inside the house or roof space. This can add considerable moisture to a house, leading to condensation and rot problems.

The exhaust fan should provide at least 12 air changes per hour. That means it should replace all the air In the room every 5 minutes. For example, in a bathroom that is 320 cubic feet (five feet by eight feet by eight feet high) the exhaust fan should have a capability of more than 64 cfm (cubic feet per minute).

Standard flush toilets have a flush rate of 1.6 gallons per flush - which is less than 50% of the water used by older 3.5 gallons per flush toilets. Due to advances in hydraulic designs, these 1.6 gallons per flush toilets work as well, and in some cases even better than older toilets in terms of bulk removal and reducing clogs.

Exhaust fans are recommended in all bathrooms, and are more important where a bathroom does not have an operable window.

The fan should discharge directly to the building exterior. In many cases, the fan terminates inside the house or roof space. This can add considerable moisture to a house, leading to condensation and rot problems.

The exhaust fan should provide at least 12 air changes per hour. That means it should replace all the air In the room every 5 minutes. For example, in a bathroom that is 320 cubic feet (five feet by eight feet by eight feet high) the exhaust fan should have a capability of more than 64 cfm (cubic feet per minute).

Your report includes many photographs. Some pictures are intended as a courtesy and are added for your information. Some are to help clarify where the inspector has been, what was looked at, and the condition of the system or component at the time of the inspection. Some of the pictures may be of deficiencies or problem areas, these are to help you better understand what is documented in this report and may allow you to see areas or items that you normally would not see. Not all problem areas or conditions will be supported with photos.

The double-hung window, which has been used since the 1700s in the United States, consists of a lower and upper sash, each working independently of the other. The sashes move up and down and are often balanced by weights hung on ropes, chains or other balanced devices. The weights counter-balance the weight of the sash and make it possible to set the window open at any position. A modern, double-hung window uses springs on each side of the sash to hold the sash in place. A variation of the double-hung window is a single-hung window, where the top sash is fixed and only the bottom sash is moveable. The double-hung window generally allows a maximum of 50% of the total window area to be used for ventilation. In other words, when the window is open as far as it will go, the two sashes are doubled up and only half of the window space is actually allowing air to pass through the opening.

Problems with double pane windows are common: sash issues, condensation issues, broken hinge mechanisms, broken/missing latches, corrosion, broken thermal seals, defective thermal coatings, failed paint, failed glazing etc.

Why Your Bathroom Should Have an Exhausting Vent Fan

Bathroom venting fans are about more than just eliminating noxious odors. Bad odors are annoying but are hardly life-threatening, and they do not impact the integrity of the building structure at all.

Bath exhaust fans are about keeping your house in top shape by moving water out of your bathroom. Water is everywhere in a bathroom: splashing on the floor, beading up on the walls, dripping down the mirror. And there is one other invisible place where you will find water in the bathroom: in the air.

Venting fans pull moisture-laden air out of that small space, slowing or altogether preventing it from condensing on walls, on the ceiling, or worst of all, in the ceiling. It can be an ugly sight to crawl above a poorly ventilated bathroom ceiling. You might find mounds of black-moldy blown-in insulation, as well as joists and rafters, weakened from years of moisture abuse.

When moisture spreads in a home, one thing quickly leads to another. Moist environments attract termites. When these cellulose-hungry insects begin feeding on your home's wood framework, you need to act quickly. Costs spiral from there as you put the home under a pest control contract and undergo extensive remodeling work to shore up weakened studs.

Manufacturer model and serial number information of the component to submit for potential recalls. Here is a list of sites that may provide you with additional information concerning potential recalls. PART SELECT, or RECALL GOV. In addition you may be getting a "RecallCheck" report emailed to you at no charge.

Refrigerator/s

• 🔸OPERATION
• Operating
• 🔸MANUFACTURER
• Frigidaire
• 🔸ALL ABOUT YOUR REFRIGERATOR!

• ➡️A refrigerator is one of our most refrigerator valuable household appliances. It keeps food and drinks cool, by pushing a liquid refrigerant through a sealed system, which causes it to vaporize, ad draw heat out of the fridge. The vaporized refrigerant then is passed through the coils outside the refrigerator - which is located at the back or the bottom of the fridge.

• ➡️Did you know this about refrigerators? The history of artificial refrigeration began with a Scottish professor William Cullen who designed a small refrigerating machine in 1755. Did you know refrigerators spend around 10% of total electricity in a common household, they are more efficient the more items that are stored in it, and refrigerators maintain a temperature a few degrees above the freezing point of water.

Dishwasher/s

• 🔸OPERATION
• Operated - Installed
• 🔸MANUFACTURER
• Frigidaire
• 🔸ABOUT YOUR DISHWASHER
• ➡️Here are some interesting fun facts to prolong the life of your dishwasher: Did you know s dishwasher can last for about 10 years? With general maintenance and a quick response to minor damages, you can prolong your dishwasher for an impressive 10 years! A dishwasher runs around 200 cycles each year. If you are the type of person that runs their dishwasher 4 times every week I would consider upgrading your appliance to a more economical and eco-friendly dishwasher, to save energy and money each cycle. Dishwashers should be cleaned from time to time. When running a cycle to clean your dishes doesn't mean it's cleaning your dishwasher also, your dishwasher will get quite greasy and dirty and this can affect the cleaning process. When cleaning your dishwasher use basic cleaning products and towels.

Range/Oven/Cooktop

• 🔸OPERATION
• Electric
• 🔸MANUFCTURER
• Frigidaire
• 🔸ABOUT YOUR OVEN
• ➡️Interesting facts about your oven: Did you know most ovens have inaccurate temperatures? Even the newest, fanciest ovens give inaccurate temperature readings from time to time. The good news is most ovens can be calibrated to fix this problem. Did you know your oven is also a slow cooker? When you think of slow cookers you think of an appliance you can set on your counter and leave unattended for a certain amount of hours, but your oven will do the same thing! The hottest part of your oven is the top. When using multiple sheet pans at one time it's always good practice to rotate them as your bake. Your oven will actually clean your cookware. You can place your cast iron skillets upside down on a foil-lined rack at 450 degrees for 1 hour. The position of the rack matters! As you know heat rises but the bottom of the oven is where the heat comes out. The closer the rack is to the bottom the crispier the bottom of the food will be. If your oven is collecting moisture, leaking heat, or improperly maintaining its temperature you might have a faulty gasket. Your gasket is the spongy material that helps seal the door to keep the heat inside the oven.
• Some ovens have a self-cleaning mode but can be considered a fire hazard! The self-cleaning mode uses high heat to burn off spills and splatters. If you don't clean out the food particles and puddles of grease prior to setting and forgetting, you're playing with fire.

Microwave

• Recirculates/Vent-less
• Frigidaire
• ➡️Here are some interesting facts on microwave safety: If a microwave is damaged such as the door is warped, cracked, or exposed, then it will leak radiation which is highly dangerous! Microwaves operate by passing heat through and agitating the food molecules. All containers that are placed in the microwave should be microwave safe such as ceramic or paper so that these materials can allow the waves to pass through the container and into the food. Many microwaves come with a high heat option. This makes the food extremely hot, dangerously hot! Older microwaves are not as sufficient as the new modern units when it comes to heating up food.

Disposer

• 🔸OPERATION
• Operated
• 🔸MANUFACTURER
• InSinkErator
• 🔸INFORMATION ON DISPOSALS
• ➡️Because the inspector does not grind anything when the unit is tested, no other statement about its function can be made. Here are some interesting facts concerning garbage disposals. Always use cold water not hot water, to flush food waste down the drain. Never put grease, oil or fat into the disposal. Pour into a jar or soak up with a paper towel, then disposal.

• Refrigerator
• Ice maker in the OFF position and no ice cubes present
• Dishwasher
• Range
• All burners operational
• Oven operational
• Garbage Disposal

A crawlspace is an unoccupied, unfinished, narrow space within a building, between the ground and the first (or ground) floor. The crawl space is so named because there is typically only enough room to crawl rather than stand; anything larger than (3 ft. 3 in. - 4ft 11 in.) would tend to be considered a basement. The crawl space functions include providing access to repair plumbing, electrical wiring, and heating and cooling systems without the need for excavation.

The crawlspace was inspected by manually entering the space. Observations and access to area's may have required maneuvering carefully under the floor system, ductwork and other items..

During inspection of the crawl space, every effort is made to inspect the entire space. Visual inspection of crawl spaces is difficult and limited as access is often restricted by pipes, ducts and sub-floor insulation as well as limited clearances.

Where a trench is dug for the foundations, and the earth under the house floor is not removed, a crawlspace is created. It may have an earth floor, although a concrete slab is more desirable for storage and moisture control. Many modern codes call for crawlspaces to be a certain height where access must be gained, although many old crawlspaces are less. Some are entirely inaccessible. Restricted access makes inspection, maintenance and repair more difficult and expensive.

The photos or video provided here show representative images of this crawl space at the time of inspection and do not necessarily cover all areas due to restrictions or limitations.

Thermostat settings provided at the time of the inspection.