This home was occupied at the time of the inspection. Inspection of occupied homes presents some challenges as occupant belongings can obstruct visual inspection of and access to parts of the house. We do our best during inspection to work around belongings to discover as much as possible about the house without moving or damaging personal property, however, the presence of personal items does limit the inspection.

Unless the wiring in the building has been fully updated, this building likely has wiring that predates the late 1980's. Branch circuit wiring installed in buildings built prior to the late 1980s is typically rated for a maximum temperature of only 60 degrees Celsius. This includes non-metallic sheathed (Romex) wiring, and both BX and AC metal-clad flexible wiring. Knob and tube wiring, typically installed in homes built prior to 1950, may be rated for even lower maximum temperatures. Newer electric fixtures including lighting and fans typically require wiring rated for 90 degrees Celsius. Connecting newer fixtures to older, 60 degree rated wiring is a potential fire hazard. Repairs for such conditions may involve replacing the last few feet of wiring to newer fixtures with new 90 degree rated wire, and installing a junction box to join the old and new wiring. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if any such incompatible components are installed. Based on the age of this building, be aware that such components may be present.

In 1978, federal laws were passed to prohibit use of Lead and Asbestos in building materials. Manufacturers of building materials were allowed to sell existing stocks of materials that were manufactured with Lead and Asbestos, so even buildings constructed as late as the mid-1980's could possibly contain Lead or Asbestos. Identification and testing for Lead and Asbestos and other environmental testing is beyond the scope of this home inspection. If you wish to seek additional information, Baker Inspection Group recommends contacting an Environmental Lab.

Important Pest Notice and Disclaimer:

California termites can attack a home in the eaves, rafter tails, Attic and Crawlspace areas. Baker Inspection Group recommends that the client obtain a pest inspection and report from a Qualified and Licensed Pest Inspector before the end of the Inspection Period. California law allows only persons who possess a valid Structural Pest Control License, issued by the State of California Structural Pest Control Board, to inspect or make reports with respect to pest infestations including wood destroying insects, termites, and other organisms such as fungus (causing wood rot). This report is not a termite inspection and no responsibility is assumed for any infestation or damage caused by wood-destroying organisms. More information can be found here http://www.pestboard.ca.gov.

Pools are fun, but children and adults can lose their life quickly. Over 4000 lives annually are lost with one-third under the age of 14. A child can drown in the time it takes to answer a phone. A swimming pool is 14 times more likely than a motor vehicle to be involved in the death of a child age 4 and under. An estimated 5,000 children ages 14 and under are hospitalized due to near-drownings each year; 15% die in the hospital and as many as 20% suffer severe, permanent brain damage. Of all preschoolers who drown, 70% are in the care of one or both parents at the time of the drowning and 75% are missing from sight for five minutes or less. Drowning surpasses all other causes of death to children age 14 and under in Arizona, California, Florida, Hawaii, Montana, Nevada, Oregon, Utah and Washington.

A pool alarm with a loud speaker system to sound outside as well as inside the home could save a life. Even if you do not have children you should be concerned. 35% of children that drowned did so in someone else's pool. For more info, please do an Internet search on pool safety.

The property has a fencing system in place. Inspection and evaluation of fencing is beyond the scope of a home inspection.

This building had a hardcoat stucco siding system. When installed over a wood building, stucco should be installed with two layers of underlayment below the stucco and a weep screed system which allows air to dry any accumulated moisture behind the stucco. Stucco is one of the nicest and lowest-maintenance siding systems but it is installation-sensitive. Poor installation can lead to expensive moisture control problems. The critical weather barrier, which is installed beneath the stucco is not visible to inspect, limiting the Inspectors' ability to see how the system is performing. During our visual inspection, we look for clues to help make an educated guess about the future reliability of this system. More detailed information can be gained through destructive testing. This involves drilling holes in the stucco and using a moisture probe to determine if any sections of the building have moisture control problems. Destructive testing is beyond the scope of this inspection.

At the time of the inspection, the Inspector observed the condition of the veneer covering exterior walls. Notable exceptions will be listed in this report. Inspection of stone typically includes examination of installation practices and visible condition.

Roofing overview pictures.

Roof flashings are used to keep a roofing system waterproof where the roofing material starts, stops, changes direction or is penetrated. During inspection, we look for standard flashing techniques that could be considered normal or standard in our region. Damaged, incomplete or non-standard flashings can be a sign of an older or less reliable roofing system and may require repair. Any non-standard flashings noted during inspection will be reported on below if found.

The Attics were accessed at the upstairs right room closet and Garage pull down stairs.

The Inspector evaluated the upstairs Attic from inside the Attic space.

The Garage Attic areas lacked adequate headroom for safe entry. As a result, inspection of the Attic space was done from the access hatch location only. Attics may contain potential fire or health hazards, other safety issues, damage, or defects that have the potential to cause damage to the home.

The electric Attic fan was activated by a thermostat. It was functional at the time of the inspection.

A radiant barrier is a layer of reflective material installed in a home to redirect the radiant heat created by the sun. In warm weather, a radiant barrier blocks radiant heat from entering a home. This increases the efficiency of your Attic-installed air handling system, resulting in increased energy savings and lower energy costs. When the sun beats down on your home, heat builds up in the roofing materials. Some of this heat is transferred into your Attic and eventually reaches your indoor living areas. This type of heat transfer, known as “radiant heat,” is as natural as the seasons. But it can create temperature variations inside your home and cause your cooling system to work harder.

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The photos provided here show representative images of this Crawlspace at the time of inspection.

This shows the location of the water meter at the front of the house.

Please note that when the water service type is listed here, it is listed based on public records and disclosure. It is always possible that the system is not as it is listed.

Budget to replace the remaining galvanized steel supply pipe at some point in the near term and definitely during any remodel work to Kitchens, Laundry area or Bathrooms. The average life of this pipe can vary widely, but tends to be between 40-60 years. As this pipe gets old and corrodes, the insides of the pipe fill with rust, causing restrictions in the pipe. This can be tolerated for some time, but eventually the functional flow becomes so diminished that pipe replacement is necessary. This could change or worsen at any time.

Please note that the supply pipes were concealed behind insulation and finishes and visual inspection was limited. Determination of the supply piping materials used here is an educated guess based on the materials that were visible coming out of the wall and below fixtures.

Copper water supply pipes were installed. Copper pipes installed prior to the late 1980's may be joined with solder that contains lead, which is a known health hazard especially for children. Laws were passed in 1985 prohibiting the use of lead in solder, but prior to that solder normally contained approximately 50% lead. Note that testing for toxic materials such as lead, is beyond the scope of this inspection. Consider having a Qualified Lab test for lead, and if necessary take steps to reduce or remove lead from the water supply. Various solutions include:

• Flush water taps or faucets. Do not drink water that has been sitting in the plumbing lines for more than 6 hours
• Install appropriate filters at points of use
• Use only cold water for cooking and drinking, as hot water dissolves lead more quickly than cold water
• Treat well water to make it less corrosive
• Have a Qualified Plumbing Contractor replace supply pipes and/or plumbing components as necessary

A point of use water circulation loop was noted. These pumps deliver hot water to the faucet more quickly when they are working. They do this by pushing the hot water line back into the cold water line. These have the advantage of near instantaneous hot water when the pump is working. The drawback is you may need to wait for cold water.

All plumbing fixtures in the home exhibited functional flow at the time of the inspection.

The visible portions of the supply piping appear to be insulated.

This shows the location of the water heater at the Garage.

A temperature and pressure relief valve (TPRV) is required on all water heaters to discharge any excessive pressure within the tank. A discharge pipe should be attached to the valve and directed to a safe location away from body contact. Newer installations must be directed to the building exterior or to an approved indoor drain receptor. Most manufacturers suggest that homeowners test these valves at least once a year by lifting the lever to ensure the valve discharges properly and also recommend inspection of these safety devices every three years. The picture here shows a typical TPRV. They may also be found on the side of the heater on some models. We do not test these valves due to the possibility that they may leak after testing. A leaking or inoperative TPRV should be replaced immediately by a Qualified Plumber.

A bollard is recommended to protect the water heater in the Garage from physical damage. When the water heater is located where it could be damaged by vehicles, "approved" protective bollards (or other means of protection) are required for safety. Recommend that a bollard be installed by a Qualified Contractor. Because current building standards do not specify what "approved" means, it is left up to jurisdictional interpretation.

The water temperature was tested multiple times during inspection. It is common for water temperatures to fluctuate throughout the house depending on the distance from the water heater, the water heater settings, the type of water heater and any thermostatic controls used in the plumbing fixtures and mixing valves. For reporting, the median temperature is used.

Please note that when the sewage discharge type is listed here, it is listed based on public records and disclosure. It is always possible that the system is not as it is listed; for example, a property could be listed as a public sewer system when in fact it is on a private septic system. This is another reason why we recommend further evaluation of this system; the type of sewer discharge cannot be verified as part of a visual inspection of the property.

Please note that the waste piping system was partially concealed behind finishes and not fully visible to inspect.

This shows the location of the sewer cleanouts at the areas around the house.

All of the plumbing fixtures in the house exhibited functional drainage at the time of the inspection.

This shows the location of the heating system at the Garage.

Annual servicing of central heating equipment is recommended for safe and reliable heat. There were no records found that indicate that this furnace had been serviced in the last year.

The following list is a minimum set of requirements to be expected of air conditioning servicing. These are provided as a courtesy to show they types of check-ups that should be expected from a professional servicing.

• Check compressor efficiency
• Check refrigerant level
• Clean the condenser coil
• Change or clean air filters
• Inspect contactors and wiring
• Inspect drive-sheaves, pulleys and belts
• Check and adjust for proper air flow
• Clean the blower motor as needed
• Lubricate all motors and shaft bearings
• Check, calibrate and program the thermostats and be sure the thermostat has adequate batteries as needed
• Check unit smoke detector, clean filter if applicable
• Check safety disconnect, laser-temp -- check across contacts

The differences in air temperature measured at supply and return registers fell within the acceptable range of between 12 and 22 degrees F.

Thermal images show approximate temperatures at the heating registers. These images just show the system was generally functioning during inspection. These are representative photos.

Thermal images show approximate temperatures at the cooling registers. These images just show the system was generally functioning during inspection. These are representative photos.

The furnace filters were located at the cold air return. These should be replaced quarterly.

The heating and cooling system had disposable air filters installed. These should be changed quarterly or more to ensure proper air flow at the furnace. Be sure to install the filters with the arrows pointing in the same direction as the air flow in the furnace.

This shows the location of the main electrical panel at the left side of the house.

Main electrical panel wiring.

Ground rod connections were noted at the exterior. The ground rods looked to be fully driven and connections looked standard,

During the inspection we make every effort to test and inspect all accessible electric receptacles and switches. In general, the scope of testing is directly related to access; where personal belonging and furniture obstruct access to receptacles and fixtures, fewer of them can be reasonably tested during inspection. All defects found during inspection today will be listed in this report.

The exterior electrical receptacles at the home had ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection that responded to testing in a satisfactory manner at the time of the inspection. The Inspector tested a representative number of readily accessible receptacles only.

The ceiling fans were tested and operating during inspection.

Carbon Monoxide alarms were found and noted during inspection. Be sure to check these regularly. The standard is one per floor and one outside all sleeping areas.

The installation of Carbon Monoxide alarms is recommended for all houses that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. The location should be: at least one alarm outside of all sleeping areas and one on each floor of the house. Best practices are to have these alarms hardwired with a battery back-up, though requirements are for the installation to meet manufacturer's specifications. Carbon Monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death. Alarms have a useful service life of roughly 6 years, so changing them more frequently than Smoke alarms is recommended.

The Bathroom fans were operated today and they appeared to be working as intended.

Thermal images show the cooktop and built in oven was tested and working during inspection.

The electric receptacle to the clothes dryer was a three-prong or three-wire system. This is an older configuration. Modern electric dryers circuits require a four-wire system. These older three-wire circuits are still allowed, but be sure that you have a three prong outlet so the cord can be swapped out and the appliance appropriately bonded.

Extensive storage in the Garage inhibited the view of most of the Garage and limited visual inspection of this space.

The Garage Door Systems Industry recognizes the critical safety role of Home Inspectors. This checklist is intended to help Home Inspectors maximize the value of their service to homeowners and home buyers. This checklist covers a basic inspection of a residential sectional garage door, connected to an automatic garage door operator when applicable.

Dasma Garage Door Checklist

• Is a spring warning label attached to the spring or spring bracket?
• No
• Is a general warning label attached to the back of a door section? 
• No
• Are two warning labels attached to the door in the vicinity of the bottom corner brackets?
• No
• Are all hardware parts securely and appropriately attached and damage free?
• Yes
• Are counterbalance springs and their attachment components restrained by a cable or shaft? 
• Yes
• Are the door sections free of any signs of fatigue?
• Yes
• Are the door sections free of any signs of cracking? 
• Yes
• Are the door sections free of any signs of separation of materials?
• Yes
• No Opener Installed - Are there handles or suitable gripping points on both the inside and outside of the door? 
• No
• No Opener Installed - Does the door move freely, without difficulty, and not more quickly than force applied?
• Yes
• No Opener Installed - Does the door stay in the fully open position?
• Yes
• Is an Entrapment Warning label attached to the wall nearby the wall-mounted control button? 
• No
• Does the door have an acceptable means of manually detaching the door from the operator? 
• Yes
• Are all control buttons mounted in clear view of the door, and safely away from all moving parts of the door?
• Yes
• Are all control buttons mounted at least five feet above any adjacent walking surfaces to keep them out of the reach of children?
• Yes
• Is the manual locking device disabled, or if an electrical locking device is present is it operational?
• No
• Are there handles or suitable gripping points on both the inside and outside of the door?
• Yes
• Are these handles clear of all pinch points?
• Yes
• Does the door move freely, without difficulty, and not more quickly than force applied?
• Yes
• Do the rollers stay in the track during operation?
• Yes
• Does the door stay in the fully open position?
• Yes
• Does the door stay in the partially open position 3-4 feet above the floor?
• No
• Does the garage door operator have at least one working control button?
• Yes
• Does the door fully open and stop above the opening?
• Yes
• Does the door fully close and rest on the floor with no gap?
• Yes
• Is a self-grounding or GFCI electrical receptacle outlet within cord length of the operator?
• Yes
• If present, is the beam no higher than six inches above the floor?
• Yes
• Does the door reverse and return to the fully open position?
• Yes