The Scope and Purpose of a Home Inspection
Purchasing property involves risk
The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a structure by providing a professional opinion about the overall condition of the structure. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we don’t know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend that you attend the inspection.
A home inspection is not an insurance policy or warranty
This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Home warranties can be purchased separately from firms that provide this service.
A home inspection is visual and not destructive
The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing which will limit the scope of the inspection.
What about code?
This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction process structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, and this limits the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are augmented at least every three years for all of the varying disciplines. Municipalities can choose to adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their own timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done. Sometimes your inspector might reference codes to give you more understanding or to back up his claims, but this does not constitute a "code violation" or have legal authority to punish anyone for violating a code.
This is just our opinion
Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are the opinions of the home inspector based on his training, experience, and standards set forth by TREC. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have some differing opinions. If your inspector feels he is not qualified or competent to inspect a certain system (like solar panels), he may recommend other specialists. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals.
Your expectations
The overall goal of a home inspection is to help ensure that your expectations are appropriate with the house you are proposing to buy. To this end we assist with discovery by showing and documenting observations during the home inspection. This should not be mistaken for a technically exhaustive inspection designed to uncover every defect with a building. Such inspections are available but they are generally cost-prohibitive to most homebuyers.
If you didn't get a walk-through
A walk through is the best way to receive this information. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by your inspector during a walk-through. If you have questions, please call us for clarification.
How to Read This Report
Getting the Information to You
This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a quick look at the Summary Page and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which can include helpful photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos and links to additional information.
The best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online, which will allow you to expand your learning about your house. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined – clicking on these will provide you with a link to additional information.
This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document.
Chapters and Sections
This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.
Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there may be no narrative observation comments in that section and it may simply say “tested,” or “inspected.”
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. These are simply for convenience and ease of use. We do our best to categorize items appropriately according to our experience. Ultimately, you decide the importance of every observation, not us. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
- Home Binder:We provide you with a free Home Binder Software with your inspection. Sometimes we include homeowner tips or recommendations that may be wise to include in your Home Binder. We also include photos of data tags, photos of systems operating normally, and information. (example: data tag on the furnace & the burners working bright blue, or handwritten notes on water heaters)
- Important Repair:This is used when conditions exist that, if not repaired, could imminently cause or allow damage to other systems, but may not be overly complicated, expensive, or require advanced knowledge to address. These are important (critical) but often manageable.
- Repair:Repair and maintenance items noted during inspection. Please note that some repair items can be expensive to correct such as re-finishing hardwood floors, but are considered simply repair items due to their cosmetic nature.
- Improve:These are items that are deficient but are not as severe or urgent. Changing these items may sometimes not be required, but improving them may increase, safety or function.
- Further Evaluation:This category is used when potentially expensive, major, or severe conditions exist that need to be inspected by a specialist or licensed contractor. Often, symptoms of larger problems are identified by an inspector and a specialist is needed to understand the scope, implications, next steps, and potential cost of the condition.
- Recommended Maintenance:These are repair items that should be considered "routine home ownership items," such as servicing the furnace or changing the air filters.
- Foundation Evaluation:This is used when a client orders a foundation evaluation that includes the use of a ZIPLEVEL 2000.
- Test:When function checks are required, I may make note of it using this modifier. For example, testing smoke detectors.
- Clean:Items that are dirty can often perform improperly. Hard water build up, hairy drains, heavy dust or debris, messy insulation, etc. Cleaning can be an important part of keeping the home working properly.
- Monitor:Items that should be watched to see if correction may be needed in the future. Example: small cracks at corners.
- Recent Repair or Project:Sometimes it is obvious when repairs, maintenance, or projects were recently completed. This can often be a good thing, but may also conceal certain conditions or mean that something happened that required repair.
- FYI:This is for your information only. The inspector may notice things that aren't problems or concerns, but would be very helpful to know. Often, the inspector is the only person who will have extended access to the property before you purchase the home. These comments are made for your information so you can be better prepared.
- Courtesy:This is beyond the scope of an inspection but may be useful or important to know. This is also information that may only come from an inspector's close look at the home. These comments are simply made as a courtesy so you have all the info you could need.
- Note:Refers to aside information and /or any comments elaborating on descriptions of systems in the home or limitations to the home inspection.
- Code Citation:Texas TREC inspectors are NOT code inspectors, however, we often use codes to support or inform our comments. A code citation is not an authoritative statement on code and does not mean there is a code violation because jurisdictions, build date, and other laws may apply. A code citation is simply to show that we are not "making up" our comments or opinions.
Summary Page
The Summary Page is designed as a bulleted overview of all the observations noted during inspection. This helpful overview is not a substitution for reading the entire inspection report. The entire report must be read to get a complete understanding of this inspection report as the Summary Page does not include photographs or photo captions.
Summary/Overview
Home Binder
- HVACS-1 Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning Systems:
This shows the data plate from the furnace. 📸
- HVACS-3 Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning Systems:
This shows the data plate for the AC unit (condenser).
- HVACS-5 Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning Systems:
An electrode humidifier is present on both of your HVAC systems. They appear to have been installed in 2022, though they were build 6 years earlier in 2016.
Modern versions of this look different, but replacement parts and details can be found at this link.
The manufacturer states these are each sized large enough for homes up to 5500sqft. So 2 of these should be more than adequate.
The most ideal humidity for a home should be between 40-60% humidity. While more humid may feel better, the materials in your home may not function the same at high humidity.
They can be controlled with the Humidistats attached to the nearby ducts (pictured).
- PS-1 Plumbing Systems:
This shows the water pressure tested during inspection.
- PS-2 Plumbing Systems:
Water Shut off Tip:
🔧A wrench is required to shut off your water.
In an emergency, you won't have time to find a wrench.
✨I recommend buying a cheap crescent wrench and leaving next to the meter so you can shut your water off quickly in an emergency.
- PS-7 Plumbing Systems:
This shows the data plate for the water heater.
- A-1 Appliances:
This shows the data plate from the dishwasher. The dishwasher was operated by running a normal wash cycle and was functional at the time of inspection. No leaks or water was present at the base of the unit at the completion of the cycle. The unit's efficiency of cleaning dishes is not tested. 📸
- A-2 Appliances:
This shows the data plate from the exhaust/Range hood. 📸
- A-3 Appliances:
*Heavily worn. This shows the data plate from the oven. 📸
- A-4 Appliances:
The oven(s) was operated by placing into "Bake" mode at 350F, and the heat was produced from the burner(s) and/or elements. The oven light is tested for functionality. "Clean" options and other functions are not tested.
The oven temperature is considered out of range -/+ 25 Degrees per the TREC standards of practice. See the referenced number above of your system when testing.
- A-7 Appliances:
This shows the data plate from the microwave. 📸
Important Repairs
- PS-9 Plumbing Systems:
CSST Gas line is in use and no bonding jumper wires are present to bond the CSST to the gas lines.
*adding bonding wires is a very simple and inexpensive project, but a massively important safety measure for CSST.
Bonding is required for CSST. Bonding lets non-electrical systems get rid of accidental electrical charge.
If CSST is electrically charged, it can easily crack and cause a gas leak and/or fire or explosion.
I recommend having a licensed plumber verify there is no bond for the CSST (no apparent bond is present). If there is no bond, I recommend having them install bonding bumblers at all required locations.
(There are more than one kind of CSST. Generally, this type requires bonds. Other types, like black CSST have bonds built in, but black CSST still must be installed properly for the build in bond to be useful.)
Helpful articles:
Repair
- SS-4 Structural Systems:
Trees or foliage are too close to the structure. This can cause conditions that allow water to stay near the foundation. The weight of new leaves in the spring may cause trees that are barren in the fall to touch the structure. Tree and foliage roots may also negatively impact the foundation or underground utilities. This is also a conducive condition for Termites.
I recommend trimming foliage at least 6' away from the structure.
- SS-8 Structural Systems:
Wall observations & deficiencies:
Interior walls
- Grout damaged in the bathtub/shower - Grout seals the gaps in the shower. This can allow moisture into the walls. It is unknown how long this condition has existed and if water has entered behind the wall.
- Wall penetrations in shower/bathtub not sealed - Water can get into the areas where pipes or fixtures come through the walls. These areas should be sealed with proper materials designed for bathtub/shower applications.
Exterior Walls
- Mortar Needs repair - this is often called pointing or re-pointing. Mortar is between the bricks and keeps moisture, wildlife, and the elements out of the structure. Mortar also supports the brick structurally.
- Exterior paint is missing on lintels - Lintels are the metal supports above doors and windows. They should be painted or sealed to prevent rust. Rust weakens the metal. (Some lintels are painted and some are not).
Recommendations
- Due to the above comments, I recommend having a qualified contractor evaluate for repair or replacement.
- I always recommend taking a walk around your home once a month and look for any problems or changes in how your walls look or perform.
- SS-11 Structural Systems:
Door observations & deficiencies:
Doors are an important part of every day life in a home. Many door issues are simply annoying, while others can be important to the function of a home. Doors provide safety from the elements, security, privacy, and separation from utilities. I recommend these items be addressed by a qualified contractor.
Exterior Doors
- Hardware is loose
- Weatherstripping is damaged
- Rot at door jamb
Interior Doors
- Interior doors rub/stick
- Hardware is loose
- SS-12 Structural Systems:
Window observations:
- Laundry room window appears to be leaking.
- Downstairs Jack & Jill bathroom window has moisture between the panes. This indicates the argon inside the window has leaked out. Argon is used as invisible insulation. If the argon is missing, moisture will build up in the window and will eventually cause components to rust or swell.
- Upstairs bedroom windows open too far. Modern standards require fall protection for these windows that limits their ability to open to 4". These devices come in various designs and vary in quality (see screenshots). Something to consider: Get a device that is somewhat easy to defeat in case of a fire.
- SS-13 Structural Systems:
Stairway observations & deficiencies:
- Baluster spindles are loose. They can be easily rotated by hand.
- The handrail is loose in some areas.
- The area beneath the stairs is not properly fire stopped. The area beneath stairs requires fire stopping via drywall to prevent fires that are downstairs from spreading. The drywall has been cut and was not patched fully. Usually this is not a concern, but the patch is directly behind your living room fireplace and the steam room water heater is in this closet.
I recommend having the rails and balusters secured to provide adequate support and stability to occupants. Loose components on stairs will only become more loose with time.
- SS-14 Structural Systems:
Outdoor fireplace is missing a rain cap/spark arrestor.
These prevent the elements and wildlife from entering the chimney space and also prevent ashes and embers from escaping.
These are required by the City of Amarillo for wood burning chimneys.
- PS-3 Plumbing Systems:
Plumbing Supply Observations & Deficiencies:
- Kitchen sink vegetable sprayer does not change spray patterns reliably. The main stream remains when the vegetable sprayer is activated.
- Components of the kitchen faucet are loose.
- Kitchen faucet hot water lost significant water pressure when the dishwasher turned on.
- Laundry room faucet is very loose.
- Laundry room faucet handle is so loose that the cold water will not stay on if not turned on completely.
- Master bath tub body sprayer leaks at connections. These connections are part of the fixture that could potentially leak into the tub cabinet.
- Master bath tub diverter is unreasonably difficult to operate.
- Downstairs Jack and Jill bathroom shower diverter does not operate properly.
I recommend having a licensed plumber address the above deficiencies.
- PS-5 Plumbing Systems:
Plumbing Drain Observations & Deficiencies:
- Drain stop in utility bathroom sink is in operable, it does not stop water.
- Master bathroom sink has a very slow drain. this is likely due to daily use and a buildup of debris. If cleaning does not solve this I recommend having a licensed plumber evaluate it.
- downstairs check and Jill bathroom toilet is loose at the floor.
- downstairs Jack and Jill bathtub has a slow drain.
- downstairs Jack and Jill bathroom sink drain stop components are missing and some are inoperable.
- Upstairs bathtub has a slow drain.
I recommend that a licensed plumbing contractor repair and replace as needed.
- PS-6 Plumbing Systems:
One repair is needed to the water heater. I recommend additional inspection and repair of the water heater by a licensed plumber. In general, the average life of most water heaters is 8-12 years. In practice, service life has much to do with water quality and maintenance of a water heater.
Examples of repair items and other observations noted during inspection include:
Water Heater Defects:
- Leakage at water connections.
- A-5 Appliances:
Back right burner does not ignite. Gas flow is working fine, but the striker does not spark.
- A-8 Appliances:
There is only 1 exhaust fan in the master bathroom, and it is in the toilet room. This is a useless place to install an exhaust fan because the entire bathroom will need to fill up with steam to the level of the toilet room threshold before the fan becomes useful.
I recommend having a qualified contractor install another exhaust fan.
- A-9 Appliances:
The bathroom exhaust vents terminated in the attic space. This condition is improper and will introduce excessive amounts of moisture to the attic space. Excessive moisture deposited into the attic may result in damage to home materials from decay.
Exhaust vents should terminate at the home exterior. I recommend having this repaired by a qualified contractor.
- OS-1 Optional Systems:
The conduit for the sprinkler control wires is damaged, leaving the wires exposed. I recommend sealing this up, the wires will be worn by the sun and the lower wires are exposed to lawn equipment.
Improvements
- SS-3 Structural Systems:
The lower wall has inadequate clearance from grade. The bottom of the wall should be 4-6 inches above the soil. Inadequate clearance may result in moisture intrusion of the structure. Excessively high moisture levels can result in damage to the home structure or materials from decay or deterioration. These areas are also a conducive condition for wood destroying insects. This is a common building practice in this area, however, it is deficient per TREC standards.
- SS-5 Structural Systems:
The roofing material on this home is asphalt shingle. These are often rated as 20-30 year shingles. In reality, the Texas Panhandle has harsh weather that often limits roof ages closer to 17-20 Years depending on the quality of the installation, the steepness of the roof and the amount of exposure. Please note that roofs require regular maintenance to keep them performing reliably.
Examples of specific observations noted during inspection include:
Drainage
- Roof plane terminates above another roof plane - I recommend having gutters installed where roof planes will discharge runoff onto others. This can extend shingle life and improve drainage around the home.
Flashings
- Flashing is missing where the roof and an exterior wall meet. This is against IRC building code and can lead to water leaks. Builders in this area fail to meet this standard regularly. Mortar is porous and is a water permeable material and will erode as water flows against it. There is no evidence that there is flashing beneath the siding, this should be verified by a qualified roofer. I recommend having a qualified roofer repair this condition.
These conditions are relatively common on homes in our area, but could definitely be improved. They The most reasonable time to have these repaired would be during the next re-roof.
I recommend any & all repairs be made by a qualified contractor with a license where required.
- SS-7 Structural Systems:
Insulation is installed backward on the upstairs walls in the attic. The vapor barrier always goes on the warm in winter side. This keeps the humidity inside the home from eventually damaging the dry insulation.
I recommend flipping this insulation. Generally, this is not a concern in Amarillo because it is so dry. But since this home has 2 humidifiers, the vapor barrier definitely needs to be on the correct side.
This problem could also be solved if you upgraded to spray-foam insulation, which is optional.
- SS-10 Structural Systems:
Auto-Closing hinges not present:
The garage service door is missing Auto Closing hinges. This house may have been built before this standard. I recommend that a qualified contractor repair/adjust as needed.
(IRC R302.5.1 Opening Protection Openings from a private garage directly into a room used for sleeping purposes shall not be permitted. Other openings between the garage and residence shall be equipped with solid wood doors not less than 13/8 inches (35 mm) in thickness, solid or honeycomb-core steel doors not less than 13/8 inches (35 mm) thick, or 20-minute fire-rated doors, equipped with a self-closing or automatic-closing device).
- ES-1 Electrical Systems:
One defect was noted at the electrical main electrical panel.
Main Breaker
- The main electrical panel had no single service disconnect. Shutting off power to all the homes circuits required more than 6 hand movements. This is improper. Modern, generally-accepted safety codes require the ability to shut of power to all circuits with 6 hand movements or less
- ES-5 Electrical Systems:
AFCI breakers were present in the electrical panel only for the bedrooms of the home. They were only required in the bedrooms from 2005 -2008 depending on the local municipality. From 2008 to the present they are required in many more locations. This is a as-built condition.
This type of protection is designed to detect and help prevent electrical arcing, which is a potential fire hazard.
Although AFCI protection was not required at the time the home was originally constructed, as general knowledge of safe building practices has improved with the passage of time, building standards have changed to reflect current understanding.
Per T.R.E.C standards of practice, as of 02/01/2022 we are required to note this as a defect. if they are not in ALL the below locations.
535.229. Standards of Practice: Minimum Inspection Requirements for Electrical Systems. The inspector shall: C) report as Deficient: (ii) the absence Arc-Fault protection in the following locations: (I) Kitchens; (II) Family rooms; (III) dining rooms; (IV) living rooms; (V) parlors; (VI) libraries; (VII) dens; (VIII) bedrooms; (IX) sunrooms; (X) recreation rooms; (XI) closets; (XII) hallways; and (XIII) laundry area;
The installation of AFCI breakers is recommended as a safety upgrade for circuits servicing bedrooms and living areas due to their ability to sense damage to wiring and "shut off" if an arc fault is detected in conductors, their connections, or items plugged into receptacles. A licensed electrician can be consulted for more information. It may not be possible to install AFCI breakers in some older panels - and upgrading the panel should be considered in these situations.
- ES-6 Electrical Systems:
The laundry room receptacle(s) are not all GFCI protected. I recommend that a licensed electrical contractor repair/install as needed.
NEWER CODE - 2020 NEC requires that all 125-volt through 250-volt receptacles installed in the locations specified in 210.8(A)(1) through (A)(11) and supplied by single-phase branch circuits rated 150 volts or less to ground shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel.
This includes the dryer 220V/240V receptacle.
- ES-7 Electrical Systems:
Deficiencies noted on lights and fixtures:
- A few lightbulbs are burnt out and/or missing.
- Upstairs living area ceiling fan very is noisy.
- Upstairs small bedroom ceiling fan is noisy.
I recommend having a licensed electrician service the ceiling fans and replace any damaged bulbs.
- HVACS-2 Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning Systems:
I recommend that a float switch be installed in the Furnace/A-coil condensate drain line as an optional upgrade.
- A-10 Appliances:
Manual lock(s) were present on the garage door(s) that were not disabled. Garage door locks should not be present on doors with a powered opener, due to the possibility of damage to the door, if the opener was engaged with the door in the "locked" position. Removal/disabling of the lock(s) is recommended to be conducted by a qualified contractor.
Further Evaluation
- PS-10 Plumbing Systems:
Steam room heater is in the closet beneath the stairs. The steam controller was not working when I pushed the buttons. This system may be decommissioned or inoperable.
I recommend asking the sellers if this works, and having a licensed plumber evaluate it if they give an answer that is anything but satisfactory to you.
Recommended Maintenance
- A-11 Appliances:
The dryer duct should be cleaned regularly for improved safety (to prevent clogging which could lead to a fire) and to keep the dryer working reliably and efficiently. Dryer vents should be cleaned yearly for safety. If the dyer vent system has not been cleaned recently, I recommend scheduling a cleaning.
Foundation Evaluation
- SS-1 Structural Systems:
Foundation Elevation Survey:
Conclusion: This home's foundation is in perfect health and no signs of unacceptable movement. All home foundations are designed to move slightly. Contour lines and a section line were not used.
Based on the observations made and data collected, the foundation appears to be performing within acceptable tolerances for performance.
The purpose of taking foundation elevations is to empower you with more data for the home buying or selling process. These data are part of a bigger picture, all factors should be considered, not just the data in this survey.
Signs of Distress (if any):
(*Note: not all signs of distress are due to foundation failure or are related to foundation performance at all. For example, there are different types of cracks, some of which are not related to the foundation.)
The following signs of distress appear to be related to the performance of the foundation, but do not necessarily indicate its failure or deficiency.
Signs of Distress🪧
- Measured elevations indicate foundation elevations are within acceptable tolerances.
- No signs of distress noted
Equipment and Procedure:
The foundation was visually inspected, and a floor elevation survey was performed.
- Interior floor elevations were taken with a Technidea ZIPLEVEL Pro-2000 that is calibrated by the manufacturer once per year (their recommendation).
- Elevations were recorded to the nearest 0.1-inch throughout the home.
- A benchmark of 0.0 was established near the center of the home and is shown on drawing with a “R”.
- An adjustment was made for floor coverings if they were a different elevation than the floor covering at the benchmark location.
- Elevations are taken approximately every 8-10', but this may change where a different interval would provide more descriptive or useful data. Measurement interval might also be interrupted by the design of the home or obstructions.
- *Elevations were so uniform and the home is so level that contour lines & section lines were not needed. The home is well within acceptable movement tolerances.
Opinions of the Inspector:
The opinions contained herein are based on the experience and judgment of the inspector who performed the foundation survey and take into consideration the structures geographic location and accumulated effect of normal seasonal movement, as well as conditions observed without taking soil samples, performing plumbing leak tests, removing floor or wall coverings, or performing invasive tests or procedures.
The opinions offered herein are based solely on the observations made at the time of the inspection, and do not take into consideration any changes in the condition of the foundation after the date the survey was performed. This report does not predict or guarantee the future performance of the subject foundation.
A Caution about Foundation Companies:
Foundation Companies sell foundation repair. It is in their best interest to recommend work on the foundation. Foundation Inspections are an unregulated business. No professional licensing or education is required to sell foundation evaluations (Home Inspection is highly regulated and education requirements are high). Simply taking site elevations and recommending repair where the home is "high" or "low" is a wildly improper way of conducting foundation evaluations. All recommendations should have a licensed engineer's name attached.
If a foundation company takes site elevations and does not calculate tilt and deflection using a section line either based on elevation contours or the primary axis of the home (and the reason for choosing one or the other should be stated), they did not calculate tilt or deflection properly and their recommendations should not be considered accurate. The source of all data and foundation repair recommendations should be justified with accompanying data and the source of that data so the measurements could be repeated.
From your inspector:
Foundations can be scary. Many questions come up when the "bones" of the house are in question. This level of foundation inspection is "above and beyond" what most inspectors offer.
I understand that you are trusting that I am competent and knowledgeable in this subject and in the use of specialized equipment. I am happy to discuss this inspection, my procedures, my education, and answer any questions you may have.
I have included some pdf documents alongside the elevations sketch and the elevation sketch on a pdf:
- A statement made by the Board of Professional Engineers about how TREC Inspectors factor into the foundation inspection industry.
- A soil map of Texas
- A document made by the Foundation Performance Association of Texas that includes some common signs of distress on homes and what they might indicate.
Please feel free to call me or message me with any questions.
Regards,
Gentry Giles
Cleaning Items
- PS-4 Plumbing Systems:
Multiple plumbing fixtures have hard water buildup on them. This can lead to irregular spray patterns or wear and tear on the parts. Hard water buildup can be cleaned somewhat easily. Cleaning is important to keep fixtures operating properly.
As an optional upgrade, water softeners or other types of purification can limit the hardness of water in your home. Amarillo and the surrounding area are well known for their very hard water.
- A-6 Appliances:
Oven is notably dirty. I recommend cleaning the oven thoroughly before using it.
Monitor
- SS-2 Structural Systems:
Structural Retaining wall present to the East of the home. The health of this wall is important to keep your home properly supported. The majority of the wall can only be accessed from your neighbors' backyard. I inspected the home and
Keep drainage clear and do not dispense water into the crack between your yard and the retaining wall. Have this inspected once per year.
Amarillo's soil is clay, and it naturally expands and contracts during wet and dry seasons. Using your sprinkler system, water regularly during the summer and water moderately in the winter.
- SS-17 Structural Systems:
Strange moisture stains are present on the porch. It seems there were potted plants here for a long time. It does also look like terrible leaks, but no other evidence of water was found. Notice the circular rings from where pots might have been.
Recent Repairs or Projects
- SS-9 Structural Systems:
Some areas of the ceiling were freshly painted/patched/textured and had what may be moisture stains nearby. I recommend consulting with the seller(s) as to why the repairs were conducted.
✒️
- Mud room - above garage occupant door.
FYI
- AIPBI-2 📰Additional Information Provided By Inspector:
A security system is present on the home. These systems are not part of a home inspection. You should verify if the system is staying with the home.
- AIPBI-3 📰Additional Information Provided By Inspector:
Literal skeleton in closet 😁.
- AIPBI-4 📰Additional Information Provided By Inspector:
This is a sample report for sample purposes only. Many of the items in the report may have been used or sampled from multiple houses to give the reader an understanding of how Tumbleweed Home Inspections might report on something for a house similar to this one.
This is meant to serve as an analogue of what a report on a similar home may be like.
Our report templates are living documents that are updated and changed weekly to be most accurate and useful. Every report is unique and every home is unique.
Codes, standards, rules, and best practices may change throughout the years, this report abided by those when it was written, but may become dated as things change.
- SS-16 Structural Systems:
The upstairs bedroom "balcony" is only decorative. It is not meant to be stood or leaned upon. Emphasize this to children and guests.
- A-12 Appliances:
There are some optional appliances in the home. They appear to be working properly. I set the warming drawer to 150F and it achieved that temperature easily. The ice maker is full of ice and appears to be working properly.
Notes
- AIPBI-1 📰Additional Information Provided By Inspector:
This home was occupied at the time of the inspection. Inspection of occupied homes presents some challenges as occupant belongings can obstruct visual inspection of and access to parts of the building. We do our best during inspection to work around belongings to discover as much as possible about the house without moving or damaging personal property, however, the presence of personal items does limit the inspection.
- ES-2 Electrical Systems:
The AFCI circuit breakers were not tested in the electrical panel due to the home being occupied. Testing/tripping these breakers shuts down power to the circuit(s), which resets modems, routers, PC's, clocks, etc. I recommend testing these breakers by pressing the "Test" button on the breaker, once all above items are off/unplugged. If the breakers do not test correctly, I recommend a licensed electrical contractor repair or replace as needed.
- ES-3 Electrical Systems:
An AFCI breaker is an acronym that stands for Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter.
AFCI (arc fault protection) is now required on all branch circuits supplying outlets or devices installed in residential dwelling unit kitchens, family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, laundry areas, and similar rooms and areas.
Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCIs) are an important electrical fire prevention and safety requirement of the National Electrical Code (NEC®), which first required them beginning in 1999. AFCIs help protect individuals and families from injuries and/or death by detecting dangerous arcing in electrical wires and shutting down an electrical system before a fire can start.
They differ from ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs), which were introduced into the NEC in the 1960s. Where GFCIs are designed to protect people from shock if parts of an electric appliance or tool become energized due to a ground fault, AFCIs are designed to protect branch circuit wiring from arcing faults.
You can tell if you have AFCI breakers by looking at your electrical panel. A few breakers should have buttons for testing and be labeled as “AFCI”. However, this should not be confused with GFCI breakers (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) that protect wet areas.
Please note that if you add or replace receptacle outlets to the existing system, they should comply with modern AFCI standards.
Code Citations
- SS-6 Structural Systems:
Codes relevant to Roof to Wall Flashing:
New construction often fails to properly flash roof to wall intersections. This is extremely common in our area, but is still wrong! (This is typically best repaired on the next re-roof, as repairing it now may do more harm than good).
- There are many wrong ways to flash a roof wall intersection. Typically, you will see a small section of flashing toward the end of the roof plane. This is inadequate. Roof to wall intersections should be flashed in their entirety as can be seen in the below code.
- Please note that this code says the flashing should prevent moisture from entering "Through Moisture Permeable Materials". Brick and mortar are both moisture permeable materials. Brick and mortar are not meant to perfectly seal corners. Only placing flashing beneath brick (like most builders do) is inadequate.
- In the diagrams for structurally supporting brick, the diagram assumes Counter Flashing will be present.
(I only use code to show where I get the basis for some comments. Some comments are commonly and mistakenly disputed by builders or contractors, so a code citation is helpful when asking for repairs, justifying repair requests, and negotiating.)
Direct code citations:
International Residential Code 2021
Section R703.4 Flashing.
Approved corrosion-resistant flashing shall be applied shingle-fashion in a manner to prevent entry of water into the wall cavity or penetration of water to the building structural framing components. Self-adhered membranes used as flashing shall comply with AAMA 711. Fluid-applied membranes used as flashing in exterior walls shall comply with AAMA 714. The flashing shall extend to the surface of the exterior wall finish. Approved corrosion-resistant flashings shall be installed at the following locations:
- Exterior window and door openings. Flashing at exterior window and door openings shall be installed in accordance with Section R703.4.1.
- At the intersection of chimneys or other masonry construction with frame or stucco walls, with projecting lips on both sides under stucco copings.
- Under and at the ends of masonry, wood or metal copings and sills.
- Continuously above all projecting wood trim.
Where exterior porches, decks or stairs attach to a wall or floor assembly of wood-frame construction.
- At wall and roof intersections.
- At built-in gutters.
Section R703.8 (R703.8.5 in 2015, 2018, and 2021 IRC) Flashing. "Flashings shall be installed in a manner that prevents moisture from entering the wall and roof through joints in copings, through moisture permeable materials and at intersections with parapet walls and other penetrations through the roof plane."
Section R903.2.1 Locations. "Flashings shall be installed at wall and roof intersections, wherever there is a change in roof slope or direction and around roof openings. A flashing shall be installed to divert the water away from where the eave of a sloped roof intersects a vertical sidewall. Where flashing is of metal, the metal shall be corrosion resistant with a thickness of not less than 0.019 inch (0.5 mm) (No. 26 galvanized sheet)"
Full Report
Structural Systems
Foundations
Grading and Drainage
Roof Covering Materials
Roof Structures and Attics
Walls (Interior and Exterior)
Ceilings and Floors
Doors (Interior and Exterior)
Windows
Stairways (Interior and Exterior)
Fireplaces and Chimneys
Porches, Balconies, Decks, and Carports
Other
Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning Systems
Heating Equipment
Cooling Equipment
Duct Systems, Chases, and Vents
Other
Plumbing Systems
Plumbing Supply, Distribution Systems and Fixtures
Drains, Wastes, and Vents
Water Heating Equipment
Hydro-Massage Therapy Equipment
Gas Distribution Systems and Gas Appliances
Other
📰Additional Information Provided By Inspector
Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations
Style of Home: French Country
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Utilities: All utilities on
Present During Inspection: Inspector, Buyer and agent at the end, Seller's Brother-in-Law
Occupancy: Occupied
Inspection Preparation Instructions Sent to Listing Agent and/or Seller?: Yes
Animals Present: No
Weather during the inspection: Cloudy, Light Rain
Approximate temperature during the inspection: 40s
Ground/Soil surface conditions: Damp
Rain in Last 3 Days:Yes
For the Purposes of This Report, the Front Door Faces: North
This is a sample report for sample purposes only. Many of the items in the report may have been used or sampled from multiple houses to give the reader an understanding of how Tumbleweed Home Inspections might report on something for a house similar to this one.
This is meant to serve as an analogue of what a report on a similar home may be like.
Our report templates are living documents that are updated and changed weekly to be most accurate and useful. Every report is unique and every home is unique.
Codes, standards, rules, and best practices may change throughout the years, this report abided by those when it was written, but may become dated as things change.
This home was occupied at the time of the inspection. Inspection of occupied homes presents some challenges as occupant belongings can obstruct visual inspection of and access to parts of the building. We do our best during inspection to work around belongings to discover as much as possible about the house without moving or damaging personal property, however, the presence of personal items does limit the inspection.
Structural Systems
Foundations
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Type of Foundation(s): Slab on Grade
Crawlspace Vantage Point: Slab house - no crawlspace
Inspector's Opinion: Foundation Performing as intended - no deficiencies noted
Suggested Foundation Care & Maintenance: Proper drainage and moisture maintenance is important to all types of foundations. Drainage must be directed away from all sides of the foundation with graded slopes and gutters w/ downspouts, and ventilation should be adequate for pier & beam structures. Care should be taken not to over-water grass, particularly in dryer times. Too much moisture in the soil can negatively effect the foundation. Trees and heavy foliage should be kept at least 6' away from the foundation. In most cases, floor coverings and/or stored articles prevent recognition of signs of settlement or cracking in most cases. It is important to note that the inspector is not an engineer and this was not a structural engineering survey. No specialized testing done of any sub-slab systems during this limited visual inspection, as these are specialized processes requiring excavation. In the event that structural movement is noted, client is advised to consult with a Licensed Engineer who can isolate and identify causes, and determine what corrective steps, if any, should be considered to either correct and/or stop structural movement.
Foundation Elevation Survey:
Conclusion: This home's foundation is in perfect health and no signs of unacceptable movement. All home foundations are designed to move slightly. Contour lines and a section line were not used.
Based on the observations made and data collected, the foundation appears to be performing within acceptable tolerances for performance.
The purpose of taking foundation elevations is to empower you with more data for the home buying or selling process. These data are part of a bigger picture, all factors should be considered, not just the data in this survey.
Signs of Distress (if any):
(*Note: not all signs of distress are due to foundation failure or are related to foundation performance at all. For example, there are different types of cracks, some of which are not related to the foundation.)
The following signs of distress appear to be related to the performance of the foundation, but do not necessarily indicate its failure or deficiency.
Signs of Distress🪧
- Measured elevations indicate foundation elevations are within acceptable tolerances.
- No signs of distress noted
Equipment and Procedure:
The foundation was visually inspected, and a floor elevation survey was performed.
- Interior floor elevations were taken with a Technidea ZIPLEVEL Pro-2000 that is calibrated by the manufacturer once per year (their recommendation).
- Elevations were recorded to the nearest 0.1-inch throughout the home.
- A benchmark of 0.0 was established near the center of the home and is shown on drawing with a “R”.
- An adjustment was made for floor coverings if they were a different elevation than the floor covering at the benchmark location.
- Elevations are taken approximately every 8-10', but this may change where a different interval would provide more descriptive or useful data. Measurement interval might also be interrupted by the design of the home or obstructions.
- *Elevations were so uniform and the home is so level that contour lines & section lines were not needed. The home is well within acceptable movement tolerances.
Opinions of the Inspector:
The opinions contained herein are based on the experience and judgment of the inspector who performed the foundation survey and take into consideration the structures geographic location and accumulated effect of normal seasonal movement, as well as conditions observed without taking soil samples, performing plumbing leak tests, removing floor or wall coverings, or performing invasive tests or procedures.
The opinions offered herein are based solely on the observations made at the time of the inspection, and do not take into consideration any changes in the condition of the foundation after the date the survey was performed. This report does not predict or guarantee the future performance of the subject foundation.
A Caution about Foundation Companies:
Foundation Companies sell foundation repair. It is in their best interest to recommend work on the foundation. Foundation Inspections are an unregulated business. No professional licensing or education is required to sell foundation evaluations (Home Inspection is highly regulated and education requirements are high). Simply taking site elevations and recommending repair where the home is "high" or "low" is a wildly improper way of conducting foundation evaluations. All recommendations should have a licensed engineer's name attached.
If a foundation company takes site elevations and does not calculate tilt and deflection using a section line either based on elevation contours or the primary axis of the home (and the reason for choosing one or the other should be stated), they did not calculate tilt or deflection properly and their recommendations should not be considered accurate. The source of all data and foundation repair recommendations should be justified with accompanying data and the source of that data so the measurements could be repeated.
From your inspector:
Foundations can be scary. Many questions come up when the "bones" of the house are in question. This level of foundation inspection is "above and beyond" what most inspectors offer.
I understand that you are trusting that I am competent and knowledgeable in this subject and in the use of specialized equipment. I am happy to discuss this inspection, my procedures, my education, and answer any questions you may have.
I have included some pdf documents alongside the elevations sketch and the elevation sketch on a pdf:
- A statement made by the Board of Professional Engineers about how TREC Inspectors factor into the foundation inspection industry.
- A soil map of Texas
- A document made by the Foundation Performance Association of Texas that includes some common signs of distress on homes and what they might indicate.
Please feel free to call me or message me with any questions.
Regards,
Gentry Giles
Structural Retaining wall present to the East of the home. The health of this wall is important to keep your home properly supported. The majority of the wall can only be accessed from your neighbors' backyard. I inspected the home and
Keep drainage clear and do not dispense water into the crack between your yard and the retaining wall. Have this inspected once per year.
Amarillo's soil is clay, and it naturally expands and contracts during wet and dry seasons. Using your sprinkler system, water regularly during the summer and water moderately in the winter.
Grading and Drainage
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Trees or foliage are too close to the structure. This can cause conditions that allow water to stay near the foundation. The weight of new leaves in the spring may cause trees that are barren in the fall to touch the structure. Tree and foliage roots may also negatively impact the foundation or underground utilities. This is also a conducive condition for Termites.
I recommend trimming foliage at least 6' away from the structure.
The lower wall has inadequate clearance from grade. The bottom of the wall should be 4-6 inches above the soil. Inadequate clearance may result in moisture intrusion of the structure. Excessively high moisture levels can result in damage to the home structure or materials from decay or deterioration. These areas are also a conducive condition for wood destroying insects. This is a common building practice in this area, however, it is deficient per TREC standards.
Roof Covering Materials
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Types of Roof Covering: Architectural grade composition shingle
Viewed From: Viewed at top of ladder, Viewed from upstairs, Walked on roof
Previous Repairs Noted?: No
The roofing material on this home is asphalt shingle. These are often rated as 20-30 year shingles. In reality, the Texas Panhandle has harsh weather that often limits roof ages closer to 17-20 Years depending on the quality of the installation, the steepness of the roof and the amount of exposure. Please note that roofs require regular maintenance to keep them performing reliably.
Examples of specific observations noted during inspection include:
Drainage
- Roof plane terminates above another roof plane - I recommend having gutters installed where roof planes will discharge runoff onto others. This can extend shingle life and improve drainage around the home.
Flashings
- Flashing is missing where the roof and an exterior wall meet. This is against IRC building code and can lead to water leaks. Builders in this area fail to meet this standard regularly. Mortar is porous and is a water permeable material and will erode as water flows against it. There is no evidence that there is flashing beneath the siding, this should be verified by a qualified roofer. I recommend having a qualified roofer repair this condition.
These conditions are relatively common on homes in our area, but could definitely be improved. They The most reasonable time to have these repaired would be during the next re-roof.
I recommend any & all repairs be made by a qualified contractor with a license where required.
Codes relevant to Roof to Wall Flashing:
New construction often fails to properly flash roof to wall intersections. This is extremely common in our area, but is still wrong! (This is typically best repaired on the next re-roof, as repairing it now may do more harm than good).
- There are many wrong ways to flash a roof wall intersection. Typically, you will see a small section of flashing toward the end of the roof plane. This is inadequate. Roof to wall intersections should be flashed in their entirety as can be seen in the below code.
- Please note that this code says the flashing should prevent moisture from entering "Through Moisture Permeable Materials". Brick and mortar are both moisture permeable materials. Brick and mortar are not meant to perfectly seal corners. Only placing flashing beneath brick (like most builders do) is inadequate.
- In the diagrams for structurally supporting brick, the diagram assumes Counter Flashing will be present.
(I only use code to show where I get the basis for some comments. Some comments are commonly and mistakenly disputed by builders or contractors, so a code citation is helpful when asking for repairs, justifying repair requests, and negotiating.)
Direct code citations:
International Residential Code 2021
Section R703.4 Flashing.
Approved corrosion-resistant flashing shall be applied shingle-fashion in a manner to prevent entry of water into the wall cavity or penetration of water to the building structural framing components. Self-adhered membranes used as flashing shall comply with AAMA 711. Fluid-applied membranes used as flashing in exterior walls shall comply with AAMA 714. The flashing shall extend to the surface of the exterior wall finish. Approved corrosion-resistant flashings shall be installed at the following locations:
- Exterior window and door openings. Flashing at exterior window and door openings shall be installed in accordance with Section R703.4.1.
- At the intersection of chimneys or other masonry construction with frame or stucco walls, with projecting lips on both sides under stucco copings.
- Under and at the ends of masonry, wood or metal copings and sills.
- Continuously above all projecting wood trim.
Where exterior porches, decks or stairs attach to a wall or floor assembly of wood-frame construction.
- At wall and roof intersections.
- At built-in gutters.
Section R703.8 (R703.8.5 in 2015, 2018, and 2021 IRC) Flashing. "Flashings shall be installed in a manner that prevents moisture from entering the wall and roof through joints in copings, through moisture permeable materials and at intersections with parapet walls and other penetrations through the roof plane."
Section R903.2.1 Locations. "Flashings shall be installed at wall and roof intersections, wherever there is a change in roof slope or direction and around roof openings. A flashing shall be installed to divert the water away from where the eave of a sloped roof intersects a vertical sidewall. Where flashing is of metal, the metal shall be corrosion resistant with a thickness of not less than 0.019 inch (0.5 mm) (No. 26 galvanized sheet)"
Roof Structures and Attics
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Attic Ventilation: Power Vent Unit, Soffit Vent
Viewed From: Traversed partial- limited due to no floor decking and insulation covering the floor/ceiling joists
Type of Insulation: Blown, Fiberglass
Approximate Average Depth of Insulation: 7/8- inches, 13/14-inches
Insulation is installed backward on the upstairs walls in the attic. The vapor barrier always goes on the warm in winter side. This keeps the humidity inside the home from eventually damaging the dry insulation.
I recommend flipping this insulation. Generally, this is not a concern in Amarillo because it is so dry. But since this home has 2 humidifiers, the vapor barrier definitely needs to be on the correct side.
This problem could also be solved if you upgraded to spray-foam insulation, which is optional.
Walls (Interior and Exterior)
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Exterior Wall Materials:Brick Veneer
Wall observations & deficiencies:
Interior walls
- Grout damaged in the bathtub/shower - Grout seals the gaps in the shower. This can allow moisture into the walls. It is unknown how long this condition has existed and if water has entered behind the wall.
- Wall penetrations in shower/bathtub not sealed - Water can get into the areas where pipes or fixtures come through the walls. These areas should be sealed with proper materials designed for bathtub/shower applications.
Exterior Walls
- Mortar Needs repair - this is often called pointing or re-pointing. Mortar is between the bricks and keeps moisture, wildlife, and the elements out of the structure. Mortar also supports the brick structurally.
- Exterior paint is missing on lintels - Lintels are the metal supports above doors and windows. They should be painted or sealed to prevent rust. Rust weakens the metal. (Some lintels are painted and some are not).
Recommendations
- Due to the above comments, I recommend having a qualified contractor evaluate for repair or replacement.
- I always recommend taking a walk around your home once a month and look for any problems or changes in how your walls look or perform.
Ceilings and Floors
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Doors (Interior and Exterior)
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Overall: All doors appeared to be functioning properly with some exceptions - see below
Door observations & deficiencies:
Doors are an important part of every day life in a home. Many door issues are simply annoying, while others can be important to the function of a home. Doors provide safety from the elements, security, privacy, and separation from utilities. I recommend these items be addressed by a qualified contractor.
Exterior Doors
- Hardware is loose
- Weatherstripping is damaged
- Rot at door jamb
Interior Doors
- Interior doors rub/stick
- Hardware is loose
Auto-Closing hinges not present:
The garage service door is missing Auto Closing hinges. This house may have been built before this standard. I recommend that a qualified contractor repair/adjust as needed.
(IRC R302.5.1 Opening Protection Openings from a private garage directly into a room used for sleeping purposes shall not be permitted. Other openings between the garage and residence shall be equipped with solid wood doors not less than 13/8 inches (35 mm) in thickness, solid or honeycomb-core steel doors not less than 13/8 inches (35 mm) thick, or 20-minute fire-rated doors, equipped with a self-closing or automatic-closing device).
Windows
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Window observations:
- Laundry room window appears to be leaking.
- Downstairs Jack & Jill bathroom window has moisture between the panes. This indicates the argon inside the window has leaked out. Argon is used as invisible insulation. If the argon is missing, moisture will build up in the window and will eventually cause components to rust or swell.
- Upstairs bedroom windows open too far. Modern standards require fall protection for these windows that limits their ability to open to 4". These devices come in various designs and vary in quality (see screenshots). Something to consider: Get a device that is somewhat easy to defeat in case of a fire.
Stairways (Interior and Exterior)
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Stairway observations & deficiencies:
- Baluster spindles are loose. They can be easily rotated by hand.
- The handrail is loose in some areas.
- The area beneath the stairs is not properly fire stopped. The area beneath stairs requires fire stopping via drywall to prevent fires that are downstairs from spreading. The drywall has been cut and was not patched fully. Usually this is not a concern, but the patch is directly behind your living room fireplace and the steam room water heater is in this closet.
I recommend having the rails and balusters secured to provide adequate support and stability to occupants. Loose components on stairs will only become more loose with time.
Fireplaces and Chimneys
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Construction Type: Insert
Type of Fireplace: Wood burning with gas lighter pipe, Gas log assembly
Porches, Balconies, Decks, and Carports
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Other
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Electrical Systems
Service Entrance and Panels
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Electrical Service Conductors: Aluminum, Below ground
Panel Type: Circuit Breakers
One defect was noted at the electrical main electrical panel.
Main Breaker
- The main electrical panel had no single service disconnect. Shutting off power to all the homes circuits required more than 6 hand movements. This is improper. Modern, generally-accepted safety codes require the ability to shut of power to all circuits with 6 hand movements or less
Branch Circuits, Connected Devices, and Fixtures
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Type of Wiring: Copper
AFCI's Tested: No Home occupied
Manually Tested Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarms: Tested accessible devices
Smoke Alarms present: Outside each separate sleeping area in the immediate vicinity of the sleeping rooms, In each sleeping room
Absence of Carbon Monoxide Alarms : NO
AFCI breakers were present in the electrical panel only for the bedrooms of the home. They were only required in the bedrooms from 2005 -2008 depending on the local municipality. From 2008 to the present they are required in many more locations. This is a as-built condition.
This type of protection is designed to detect and help prevent electrical arcing, which is a potential fire hazard.
Although AFCI protection was not required at the time the home was originally constructed, as general knowledge of safe building practices has improved with the passage of time, building standards have changed to reflect current understanding.
Per T.R.E.C standards of practice, as of 02/01/2022 we are required to note this as a defect. if they are not in ALL the below locations.
535.229. Standards of Practice: Minimum Inspection Requirements for Electrical Systems. The inspector shall: C) report as Deficient: (ii) the absence Arc-Fault protection in the following locations: (I) Kitchens; (II) Family rooms; (III) dining rooms; (IV) living rooms; (V) parlors; (VI) libraries; (VII) dens; (VIII) bedrooms; (IX) sunrooms; (X) recreation rooms; (XI) closets; (XII) hallways; and (XIII) laundry area;
The installation of AFCI breakers is recommended as a safety upgrade for circuits servicing bedrooms and living areas due to their ability to sense damage to wiring and "shut off" if an arc fault is detected in conductors, their connections, or items plugged into receptacles. A licensed electrician can be consulted for more information. It may not be possible to install AFCI breakers in some older panels - and upgrading the panel should be considered in these situations.
The laundry room receptacle(s) are not all GFCI protected. I recommend that a licensed electrical contractor repair/install as needed.
NEWER CODE - 2020 NEC requires that all 125-volt through 250-volt receptacles installed in the locations specified in 210.8(A)(1) through (A)(11) and supplied by single-phase branch circuits rated 150 volts or less to ground shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel.
This includes the dryer 220V/240V receptacle.
Deficiencies noted on lights and fixtures:
- A few lightbulbs are burnt out and/or missing.
- Upstairs living area ceiling fan very is noisy.
- Upstairs small bedroom ceiling fan is noisy.
I recommend having a licensed electrician service the ceiling fans and replace any damaged bulbs.
I test accessible smoke and/or CO detection devices with the "test" button available on the unit(s).
You should be aware that this only tests the battery and the unit's ability to make sound. This is not a comprehensive test of the sensors or their ability to sense smoke, a fire, or CO.
These devices are recommended to be replaced every 10 years. Unless the devices are pretty new, I recommend installing all new Smoke/Fire and CO detecting devices in the home when you move in. The peace of mind and security this can provide is worth the few dollars they cost. If the devices are newer, I recommend replacing all batteries when you move in.
The AFCI circuit breakers were not tested in the electrical panel due to the home being occupied. Testing/tripping these breakers shuts down power to the circuit(s), which resets modems, routers, PC's, clocks, etc. I recommend testing these breakers by pressing the "Test" button on the breaker, once all above items are off/unplugged. If the breakers do not test correctly, I recommend a licensed electrical contractor repair or replace as needed.
An AFCI breaker is an acronym that stands for Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter.
AFCI (arc fault protection) is now required on all branch circuits supplying outlets or devices installed in residential dwelling unit kitchens, family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, laundry areas, and similar rooms and areas.
Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCIs) are an important electrical fire prevention and safety requirement of the National Electrical Code (NEC®), which first required them beginning in 1999. AFCIs help protect individuals and families from injuries and/or death by detecting dangerous arcing in electrical wires and shutting down an electrical system before a fire can start.
They differ from ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs), which were introduced into the NEC in the 1960s. Where GFCIs are designed to protect people from shock if parts of an electric appliance or tool become energized due to a ground fault, AFCIs are designed to protect branch circuit wiring from arcing faults.
You can tell if you have AFCI breakers by looking at your electrical panel. A few breakers should have buttons for testing and be labeled as “AFCI”. However, this should not be confused with GFCI breakers (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) that protect wet areas.
Please note that if you add or replace receptacle outlets to the existing system, they should comply with modern AFCI standards.
Other
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning Systems
Heating Equipment
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Type of Systems: Central split system Forced Air
Energy Sources: Natural Gas
Data Plate: Shown Here
Heating System Manufacturer: Carrier
Number of Heating systems: Two
Approx. Furnace Manufacture Year: 2008
Float in pan: N/A
This shows the data plate from the furnace. 📸
I recommend that a float switch be installed in the Furnace/A-coil condensate drain line as an optional upgrade.
Cooling Equipment
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Type of Systems: Central split system AC
Data Plate: Shown Here
Approx. AC Unit Manufacture Year: 2008 (smaller unit), 2021 (larger unit)
Refrigerant Type: R410A
AC breaker size on the unit(s) label: At the exterior unit (50, 40)
Actual AC Breaker size in the Panel : In panel (50, 40)
The ambient air test was performed by using thermometers on the air handler to determine if the difference in temperatures of the supply and return air is between 15 degrees and 22 degrees which indicates that the unit is cooling as intended. The air temperatures on your system read:
- Unit # 1 17-22 Degrees temperature differential. This indicates the range in temperature drop is normal.
- Unit # 2 17-22 Degrees temperature differential. This indicates the range in temperature drop is normal.
*Please Note, TREC Requires inspectors to take the "Delta T" from the registers. This is not a truly technical Delta T, as a true reading would be done with probes at the ducts immediately adjacent to the unit. The way TREC dictates inspectors take a Delta T is anecdotal and should not be used as a marker for system health.
Duct Systems, Chases, and Vents
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Filter Type: Disposable
Other
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
An electrode humidifier is present on both of your HVAC systems. They appear to have been installed in 2022, though they were build 6 years earlier in 2016.
Modern versions of this look different, but replacement parts and details can be found at this link.
The manufacturer states these are each sized large enough for homes up to 5500sqft. So 2 of these should be more than adequate.
The most ideal humidity for a home should be between 40-60% humidity. While more humid may feel better, the materials in your home may not function the same at high humidity.
They can be controlled with the Humidistats attached to the nearby ducts (pictured).
Plumbing Systems
Plumbing Supply, Distribution Systems and Fixtures
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Location of water meter: Alley
Static water pressure reading: Testing Photo
Location of main water supply valve & shutoff: At meter, Meter wrench tip
Type of supply piping material: PEX
Plumbing Supply Observations & Deficiencies:
- Kitchen sink vegetable sprayer does not change spray patterns reliably. The main stream remains when the vegetable sprayer is activated.
- Components of the kitchen faucet are loose.
- Kitchen faucet hot water lost significant water pressure when the dishwasher turned on.
- Laundry room faucet is very loose.
- Laundry room faucet handle is so loose that the cold water will not stay on if not turned on completely.
- Master bath tub body sprayer leaks at connections. These connections are part of the fixture that could potentially leak into the tub cabinet.
- Master bath tub diverter is unreasonably difficult to operate.
- Downstairs Jack and Jill bathroom shower diverter does not operate properly.
I recommend having a licensed plumber address the above deficiencies.
Multiple plumbing fixtures have hard water buildup on them. This can lead to irregular spray patterns or wear and tear on the parts. Hard water buildup can be cleaned somewhat easily. Cleaning is important to keep fixtures operating properly.
As an optional upgrade, water softeners or other types of purification can limit the hardness of water in your home. Amarillo and the surrounding area are well known for their very hard water.
Drains, Wastes, and Vents
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Type of drain piping material: PVC
Plumbing Cleanout Location FYI: Driveway
Plumbing Drain Observations & Deficiencies:
- Drain stop in utility bathroom sink is in operable, it does not stop water.
- Master bathroom sink has a very slow drain. this is likely due to daily use and a buildup of debris. If cleaning does not solve this I recommend having a licensed plumber evaluate it.
- downstairs check and Jill bathroom toilet is loose at the floor.
- downstairs Jack and Jill bathtub has a slow drain.
- downstairs Jack and Jill bathroom sink drain stop components are missing and some are inoperable.
- Upstairs bathtub has a slow drain.
I recommend that a licensed plumbing contractor repair and replace as needed.
Water Heating Equipment
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Data Plate: Shown Here
Energy Sources: Natural Gas
Capacity: Tankless
Manufacturer: Navien
Water Heater Location: Garage closet
Approx. Water Heater Age: 2023
Pressure Relief: Not tested due to potential damage to property
One repair is needed to the water heater. I recommend additional inspection and repair of the water heater by a licensed plumber. In general, the average life of most water heaters is 8-12 years. In practice, service life has much to do with water quality and maintenance of a water heater.
Examples of repair items and other observations noted during inspection include:
Water Heater Defects:
- Leakage at water connections.
Hydro-Massage Therapy Equipment
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Gas Distribution Systems and Gas Appliances
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Location of gas meter: Alley
Type of gas distribution piping material: Black Steel, Gastite/flashsheild Corrugated stainless steel tubing(black)
CSST Gas line is in use and no bonding jumper wires are present to bond the CSST to the gas lines.
*adding bonding wires is a very simple and inexpensive project, but a massively important safety measure for CSST.
Bonding is required for CSST. Bonding lets non-electrical systems get rid of accidental electrical charge.
If CSST is electrically charged, it can easily crack and cause a gas leak and/or fire or explosion.
I recommend having a licensed plumber verify there is no bond for the CSST (no apparent bond is present). If there is no bond, I recommend having them install bonding bumblers at all required locations.
(There are more than one kind of CSST. Generally, this type requires bonds. Other types, like black CSST have bonds built in, but black CSST still must be installed properly for the build in bond to be useful.)
Helpful articles:
Other
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Steam room heater is in the closet beneath the stairs. The steam controller was not working when I pushed the buttons. This system may be decommissioned or inoperable.
I recommend asking the sellers if this works, and having a licensed plumber evaluate it if they give an answer that is anything but satisfactory to you.
Appliances
Dishwashers
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Dishwasher Manufacturer: Kitchen Aid
📸: 📸 - Data plate and dishwasher run a cycle
This shows the data plate from the dishwasher. The dishwasher was operated by running a normal wash cycle and was functional at the time of inspection. No leaks or water was present at the base of the unit at the completion of the cycle. The unit's efficiency of cleaning dishes is not tested. 📸
Food Waste Disposers
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Disposer Manufacturer: InsinkErator Badger
📸: not visible
Range Hood and Exhaust Systems
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Range Hood Manufacturer : Broan
Exhaust/Range Hood : Vented
📸: 📸
Ranges, Cooktops, and Ovens
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Oven 📸: 📸
Cooktop 📸: 📸
Range/Oven Manufacturer : Viking
Cooktop Manufacturer: Viking
The oven(s) was operated by placing into "Bake" mode at 350F, and the heat was produced from the burner(s) and/or elements. The oven light is tested for functionality. "Clean" options and other functions are not tested.
The oven temperature is considered out of range -/+ 25 Degrees per the TREC standards of practice. See the referenced number above of your system when testing.
Microwave Ovens
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
📸: 📸
Mechanical Exhaust Vents and Bathroom Heaters
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
There is only 1 exhaust fan in the master bathroom, and it is in the toilet room. This is a useless place to install an exhaust fan because the entire bathroom will need to fill up with steam to the level of the toilet room threshold before the fan becomes useful.
I recommend having a qualified contractor install another exhaust fan.
The bathroom exhaust vents terminated in the attic space. This condition is improper and will introduce excessive amounts of moisture to the attic space. Excessive moisture deposited into the attic may result in damage to home materials from decay.
Exhaust vents should terminate at the home exterior. I recommend having this repaired by a qualified contractor.
Garage Door Operators
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Manufacturer: Overhead Door
Manual lock(s) were present on the garage door(s) that were not disabled. Garage door locks should not be present on doors with a powered opener, due to the possibility of damage to the door, if the opener was engaged with the door in the "locked" position. Removal/disabling of the lock(s) is recommended to be conducted by a qualified contractor.
Dryer Exhaust Systems
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Dryer Energy Source:Electric
The dryer duct should be cleaned regularly for improved safety (to prevent clogging which could lead to a fire) and to keep the dryer working reliably and efficiently. Dryer vents should be cleaned yearly for safety. If the dyer vent system has not been cleaned recently, I recommend scheduling a cleaning.
Other
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
There are some optional appliances in the home. They appear to be working properly. I set the warming drawer to 150F and it achieved that temperature easily. The ice maker is full of ice and appears to be working properly.
Optional Systems
Landscape Irrigation (Sprinkler) Systems
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Zones: Zone Chart
Sprinkler Control: 📸
Sprinkler Zones:
- West side yard along house
- West side yard along retaining wall
- West front yard along house
- West front yard middle - street
- East front yard along house
- East front yard middle - street
- East side yard front and back
- Back yard along patio & side walk
- Back yard middle and back
- Front flowerbed soakers
Swimming Pools, Spas, Hot Tubs, and Equipment
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Outbuildings
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Private Water Wells (A coliform analysis is recommended.)
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Private Sewage Disposal Systems
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Tank Pumped (Not required in Texas): No
Other Built-in Appliances
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient
Other
InspectedNot InspectedNot PresentDeficient