Unless the wiring in the building has been fully updated, this building likely has wiring that predates the late 1980's. Branch circuit wiring installed in buildings built prior to the late 1980's is typically rated for a maximum temperature of only 60 degrees Celsius. This includes non-metallic sheathed (Romex) wiring, and both BX and AC metal-clad flexible wiring. Knob and tube wiring, typically installed in homes built prior to 1950, may be rated for even lower maximum temperatures. Newer electric fixtures including lighting and fans typically require wiring rated for 90 degrees Celsius. Connecting newer fixtures to older, 60-degree-rated wiring is a potential fire hazard. Repairs for such conditions may involve replacing the last few feet of wiring to newer fixtures with new 90-degree-rated wire, and installing a junction box to join the old and new wiring. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if any such incompatible components are installed. Based on the age of this building, be aware that such components may be present.

The home inspector shall observe vegetation, grading, drainage, driveways, patios, walkways, and retaining walls with respect to their effect on the condition of the building. The home inspector is not required to observe fences, geological conditions, soil conditions, recreational facilities (including spas, saunas, steam baths, swimming pools, tennis courts, playground equipment, and other exercise, entertainment, or athletic facilities) or presence or condition of buried fuel storage tanks.

The home inspector shall observe decks, balconies, stoops, steps, areaways, porches, applicable railings. The inspector shall describe the type of walking surface and the type of railings, if present. The inspector shall report as in need of correction, any improper spacing between intermediate balusters, spindles and rails.

The inspector shall inspect: The exterior wall covering materials; the eaves, soffits and fascia; a representative number of windows; all exterior doors; flashing and trim; adjacent walkways and driveways; stairs, steps, stoops, stairways and ramps; porches, patios, decks, balconies and carports; railings, guards and handrails; and vegetation, surface drainage, retaining walls and grading of the property, where they may adversely affect the structure due to moisture intrusion. The inspector shall describe: the type of exterior wall covering materials. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: any improper spacing between intermediate balusters, spindles and rails. The inspector is not required to: inspect or operate screens, storm windows, shutters, awnings, fences, outbuildings, or exterior accent lighting; inspect items that are not visible or readily accessible from the ground, including window and door flashing; inspect or identify geological, geotechnical, hydrological or soil conditions; inspect recreational facilities or playground equipment; inspect seawalls, break walls or docks. inspect erosion control or earth stabilization measures; inspect for safety type glass; inspect underground utilities; inspect underground items; inspect wells or springs; inspect solar, wind or geothermal systems; inspect swimming pools or spas; inspect wastewater treatment systems, septic systems or cesspools; inspect irrigation or sprinkler systems; inspect drainfields or dry wells; determine the integrity of multiple pane window glazing or thermal window seals.

The inspector shall inspect from the ground level or the eaves: roof covering materials, gutters, downspouts, vents, flashing, skylights, chimney, and other roof penetrations. The inspector shall inspect the general structure of the roof from the readily accessible panels, doors, or stairs. The inspector shall describe the type of roof covering materials. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: observed indications of active roof leaks. The inspector is not required to: walk on any roof surface, predict the service life expectancy, inspect underground downspout diverter drainage pipes, remove snow, ice, debris or other conditions that prohibit the observation of the roof surfaces, move insulation, inspect antennae, satellite dishes, lightning arresters, de-icing equipment, or similar attachments, walk on any roof areas that appear, in the inspector's opinion, to be unsafe; walk on any roof areas that doing so might, in the inspector's opinion, cause damage; perform a water leakage test, warrant or certify the roof, or confirm proper fastening or installation of any roof covering material.

This building has a cut valley detail for the roofing valleys. These generally perform adequately, though some roofers and some shingle manufacturers do not recommend this type of valley detail. They are so common here, I do not consider them defective or in need of repair unless there is visible evidence that a repair is needed at the time or they are showing excessive ware. Generally, valleys done with metal flashing systems are more reliable.

The home inspector shall inspect structural components including the foundation, the basement, the crawlspace, structural components including joist condition, joist supporting structures, connections, floor sheathing, visible wall components, ceiling joists, and roof structure. The home inspector shall describe the type of foundation, floor structure, wall structure, ceiling structure, and roof structure. The inspector shall describe the location of the access to the under floor space. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: Observed indications of wood in contact with or near soil, Observed indications of active water penetration. Observed indications of possible foundation movement, such as sheetrock cracks, brick cracks, out-of-square door frames, and unlevel floors. And any observed cutting, notching and boring of framing members that may, in the inspector's opinion, present a structural or safety concern. The inspector is not required to: Enter any crawlspace that is not readily accessible, or where entry could cause damage or pose a hazard to him/herself. Move stored items or debris. Operate sump pumps with inaccessible floats. Identify the size, spacing, span or location or determine the adequacy of foundation bolting, bracing, joists, joist spans or support systems. Provide any engineering or architectural service. Report on the adequacy of any structural system or component.

Attic and roof cavity ventilation is a frequently misunderstood element of residential construction. All roof cavities are required to have ventilation. The general default standard is 1 to 150 of the attic area and ideally, this comes from at least 60% lower roof cavity ventilation and 40% upper, but this is an over-simplifications of the subject. As a good guiding principle the most important elements for healthy attic spaces, which are traditionally insulated and ventilated are:

1. Make sure the ceiling between the living space and the attic is airtight
2. Ventilate consistently across the whole lower part of the roof cavity with low, intake soffit venting
3. Upper roof cavity venting is less important and if over-installed can exacerbate air migration into the attic from the living space.
4. Avoid power ventilators which can depressurize the attic and exacerbate air migration from the house into the attic.

For more information, please see: Link

A representative number of receptacles and switches were tested during inspection. Any defects found during inspection are noted in this report. Only visible and accessible receptacles and switches were tested during inspection and personal items and furnishings are not moved to access any receptacles or fixtures. Inspection/testing of the electrical system can be challenging. It should be anticipated that not all defects will be discovered and that some issues found may actually not be defects at all. Tools used to verify proper wiring and function can vary wildly in reliability/consistency. The kinds of tools that could be used to confidently analyze the system and its function cannot typically be done in the context of a Standard Home Inspection. I look for indications of issues, based on the age of the home, types of wiring systems used etc, as well as personal experience and by testing with a variety of common tools. Issues identified, will be further discussed with recommendations in the electrical section below.

During the home inspection, I try and test a representative sample of the smoke alarms by using the test button on the alarms. This is NOT an accurate test of the sensor, just a test to see if the unit is powered. For reliability, fire marshals recommended updating smoke alarms every ten years and changing batteries bi-annually. The latest data indicate that we should be using photoelectric technology in our smoke alarms for improved fire detection and reducing problems with false alarms, which can lead to disabling of this critical safety system. Unfortunately, the alarms must be removed to determine if they are photo-electric or ionization types. It is surprisingly complex to accurately test a smoke alarm system and determine the reliability, age, and type of sensor technology used, especially as many homes can have half a dozen or more alarms throughout the house. A complete evaluation of smoke alarms is beyond the scope of this inspection. For optimal fire safety, I recommend taking control of these critical safety devices and learning about how to service and maintain your smoke alarm system to keep the building occupants safe. For more information, please read this link. For more information, please read this link.

A representative number of receptacles and switches were tested during inspection. Any defects found during inspection are noted in this report. Only visible and accessible receptacles and switches were tested during inspection and personal items and furnishings are not moved to access any receptacles or fixtures. Inspection/testing of the electrical system can be challenging. It should be anticipated that not all defects will be discovered and that some issues found may actually not be defects at all. Tools used to verify proper wiring and function can vary wildly in reliability/consistency. The kinds of tools that could be used to confidently analyze the system and its function cannot typically be done in the context of a Standard Home Inspection. I look for indications of issues, based on the age of the home, types of wiring systems used etc, as well as personal experience and by testing with a variety of common tools. Issues identified, will be further discussed with recommendations in the electrical section below.

The inspector shall inspect: The main water supply shut off valve. The main fuel supply shut off valve. The water heating equipment, including the energy source, venting connections, temperature/pressure-relief (TPR) valves, Watts 210 valves, and seismic bracing. Interior water supply, including all fixtures and faucets, by running the water. All toilets for proper operation by flushing. All sinks, tubs and showers for functional drainage. The drain, waste and vent system. Drainage sump pumps with accessible floats. The inspector shall describe: Whether the water supply is public or private based upon observed evidence. The location of the main water supply shut off valve. The location of the main fuel supply shut-off valve. The location of any observed fuel-storage system. The capacity of the water heating equipment, if labeled. The inspector shall report as in need of correction: Deficiencies in the water supply by viewing the functional flow in two fixtures operated simultaneously. Deficiencies in the installation of hot and cold water faucets. Active plumbing water leaks that were observed during the inspection. Toilets that were damaged, had loose connections to the floor, were leaking, or had tank components that did not operate. The inspector is not required to: Light or ignite pilot flames. Measure the capacity, temperature, age, life expectancy or adequacy of the water heater. Inspect the interior of flues or chimneys, combustion air systems, water softener or filtering systems, well pumps or tanks, safety or shut off valves, floor drains, lawn sprinkler systems, or fire sprinkler systems. Determine the exact flow rate, volume, pressure, temperature or adequacy of the water supply. Determine the water quality, potability or reliability of the water supply or source. Open sealed plumbing access panels. Inspect clothes washing machines or their connections. Operate any valve. Test shower pans, tub and shower surrounds or enclosures for leakage or for functional overflow protection. Evaluate the compliance with conservation, energy or building standards, or the proper design or sizing of any water, waste or venting components, fixtures or piping. Determine the effectiveness of anti-siphon, back flow prevention or drain-stop devices. Determine whether there are sufficient cleanouts for effective cleaning of drains. Evaluate fuel storage tanks or supply systems. Inspect wastewater treatment systems. Inspect water treatment systems or water filters. Inspect water storage tanks, pressure pumps, or bladder tanks. Evaluate wait time to obtain hot water at fixtures, or perform testing of any kind to water heater elements. Evaluate or determine the adequacy of combustion air. Test, operate, open or close: safety controls, manual stop valves, temperature/pressure relief valves, control valves, or check valves. Examine ancillary or auxiliary systems or components, such as, but not limited to, those related to solar water heating and hot water circulation. Determine the existence or condition of polybutylene, polyethylene, or similar plastic piping. Inspect or test for gas or fuel leaks, or indications thereof.

Copper water supply pipes were installed. Copper pipes installed prior to the late 1980's may be joined with solder that contains lead, which is a known health hazard especially for children. Laws were passed in 1985 prohibiting the use of lead in solder, but prior to that solder normally contained approximately 50% lead. Note that testing for toxic materials such as lead, is beyond the scope of this inspection. Consider having a qualified lab test for lead, and if necessary take steps to reduce or remove lead from the water supply. Various solutions include:

• Flush water taps or faucets. Do not drink water that has been sitting in the plumbing lines for more than 6 hours
• Install appropriate filters at points of use
• Use only cold water for cooking and drinking, as hot water dissolves lead more quickly than cold water
• Treat well water to make it less corrosive
• Have a qualified plumber replace supply pipes and/or plumbing components as necessary

MONITOR PIPES AND PLUMBING SYSTEMS AFTER MOVING IN

I recommend monitoring waste and supply plumbing and plumbing fixtures for several months after moving in. I ran all plumbing fixtures during the inspection. Any leaks or signs of active or past leaks will be noted elsewhere in this report. Daily use of plumbing presents more stress and challenges to piping systems than simply testing them during inspection.

A floor drain was noted in the basement. I do not test floor drains, but I do recommend they be tested for function by the homeowner or a handy person by running a hose in them for a prolonged time or having them professionally scoped by a qualified plumber. The traps in these drains sometimes dry out, allowing sewer gases and vermin into the home. As a part of routine maintenance, I recommend making sure the drain trap has water in it and is properly covered.

The home inspector shall observe all entryway doors, a representative number of windows, doors, garage door operators, walls, ceiling, and floors, steps, stairways, balconies, and railings. The home inspector shall operate all entryway doors and a representative number of windows, operate garage doors manually or by using permanently installed controls for any garage door operator, and report whether or not any garage door operator will automatically reverse or stop when meeting reasonable resistance during closing. The home inspector shall report signs of abnormal or harmful water penetration into the building or signs of abnormal or harmful condensation on building components. The home inspector is not required to observe storm windows, storm doors, screening, shutters, awnings, and similar seasonal accessories, presence of safety glazing in doors and windows, garage door operator remote control transmitters, paint, wallpaper, and other finish treatments on the interior walls, ceilings, and floors, carpeting, draperies, blinds, or other window treatments.