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The Scope and Purpose of a Home Inspection
Purchasing property involves risk
The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a structure by providing a professional opinion about the overall condition of the structure. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we donât know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend that you attend the inspection.
A home inspection is not an insurance policy
This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Home warranties can be purchased separately from insuring firms that provide this service.
A home inspection is visual and not destructive
The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing which will limit the scope of the inspection.
This is not an inspection for code compliance
This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction process structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, and this limits the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are augmented at least every three years for all of the varying disciplines. Municipalities can choose to adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their own timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done.
This is just our opinion
Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are the opinions of the home inspector. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have some differing opinions. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals.
The scope of this inspection
This inspection will include the following systems: exterior, roof, structure, drainage, foundation, attic, interior, plumbing, electrical and heating. The evaluation will be based on limited observations that are primarily visual and non-invasive. This inspection and report are not intended to be technically exhaustive.
Your expectations
The overall goal of a home inspection is to help ensure that your expectations are appropriate with the house you are proposing to buy. To this end we assist with discovery by showing and documenting observations during the home inspection. This should not be mistaken for a technically exhaustive inspection designed to uncover every defect with a building. Such inspections are available but they are generally cost-prohibitive to most homebuyers.
Your participation is requested
Your presence is requested during this inspection. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by a shared visual observation of the conditions of the property.
How to Read This Report
Getting the Information to You
This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a quick look at our "Summary Pageâ and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos and hot links to additional information.
The best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online, which will allow you to expand your learning about your house. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined â clicking on these will provide you with a link to additional information.
This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document.
Chapters and Sections
This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.
Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there may be no narrative observation comments in that section and it may simply say âtested,â or âinspected.â
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
- Major Concern:Repair items that may cost significant money to correct now or in the near future, or items that require immediate attention to prevent additional damage or eliminate safety hazards.
- Repair:Repair and maintenance items noted during inspection. Please note that some repair items can be expensive to correct such as re-finishing hardwood floors, but are considered simply repair items due to their cosmetic nature.
- Recommended Maintenance:These are repair items that should be considered "routine home ownership items," such as servicing the furnace, cleaning the gutters or changing the air filters in the furnace.
- Due Diligence:Observation such as a buried oil tank that may require further investigation to determine the severity and / or urgency of repair.
- Completed:Items that were initially an issue but have since been completed.
- Note:Refers to aside information and /or any comments elaborating on descriptions of systems in the home or limitations to the home inspection.
- Description:Detailed description of various aspects of the property noted during the inspection.
Summary Page
The Summary Page is designed as a bulleted overview of all the observations noted during inspection. This helpful overview is not a substitution for reading the entire inspection report. The entire report must be read to get a complete understanding of this inspection report as the Summary Page does not include photographs or photo captions.
Summary
Major Concerns
- ESDW-1 Exterior Siding, Doors and Windows:
This siding has rot, Cupping, to such a degree that vinyl encapsulation is recommended. Initial repairs as needed.
- There are no gutters and front porch siding is working water
- Rear siding has rotting at bottom base area, again there are no gutters. There should be no wood ground contact.
- Rod to base, there are no gutters we talked better water control, vertical board siding also has cupping
- This area is to rear left,'this area is located to left rear over the bulkhead area, rot and repair needed
- Siding has cupping, and repairs needed
- Picture of left side siding, Cupping and repairs needed.
- ESDW-2 Exterior Siding, Doors and Windows:
The exterior siding and trim needs to be re-painted to preserve and maintain the siding system. Budget for re-painting the exterior in the near term. This is routine maintenance, but I list as a major concern due to upcoming cost. Examples of specific observations noted during inspection include: Siding needs repair to many areas that are rotted, many areas need re-nailing that are cupped, and scraping or stone dust blasting to clean loose paint. Because of the extent of work we recommend limited repairs and vinyl and encapsulation.
- ES1-1 Electric Service:
Overall, numerous problems were noted in the wiring system indicating older, incomplete and unreliable wiring practices. I recommend a complete evaluation of the entire electrical system by a qualified electrical contractor. Implement repairs and updates as recommended.
Examples of repairs and improvements may include:
- Updating of older two-prong or two-wire system
- Updating of old and damaged receptacles
- Supporting all loose wiring
- Correcting all receptacles with reverse polarity
- Correcting all open grounds
- EDFW-1 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:
Overall, numerous defects and red flags were noted in the wiring system indicating old, unreliable and incomplete wiring practices. I recommend additional inspection and repair of the entire wiring system by a licensed electrical contractor as additional repairs could be needed that are latent or concealed. This should be considered urgent for safety reasons. Examples of observations and defects found during inspection are included in the Electric chapter as repair items and also include:
Branch Wiring and Wiring Cables
- Running splices noted. This is when wires are spliced together and left exposed. Splicing should be done inside of junction boxes.
Bathroom Wiring
- Electric receptacles are inadequate in the bathroom. Today's standards require receptacles within 3-feet of each sink and should be located no more than 12 inches below the sink
Kitchen Wiring
- The kitchen appears to be under-wired - modern standards recommended at least two 20-amp circuits for countertop receptacles.
- GFCI protection for the kitchen is incomplete - all countertop receptacle should be GFCI protected for safety.
- HCFV-1 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
Have independent oil company check and replace oil tank as needed.
- I-7 Interior:
Most of the windows in this home are old windows that require maintenance and repair. You need to decide how you want to approach the windows in this home as they are generally older and do not comply with modern standards for safety glass and energy efficiency. Repairs can be made on an as needed basis and efficiency can be added with storm windows and curtains. Existing windows that have character are often worth preserving and restoring, where windows that are in worse condition and have less character may be good candidates for replacement. The windows Below are just a few samples of windows or need a repair replacement. Skylight at kitchen had a blind that could not be operated, making view difficult. The skylight was either dirty, or had a thermal seal leak. Have a contractor check and correct as needed.
- More thermal seal leaks.
- At rear glass slider there are thermal seal leaks, the exterior has no kickboard, a contractor will have to look and repair or replace this entire area.
- Left side casement window has both damage to wood frame and wood frame window and window has thermal seal leak. Window is pulling away from house.
- Water damage to wood sill.
- A-2 Attic:
Mold-like substances were noted on several sheets of Wood boards in the attic. If you are concerned about molds, a mold remediation specialist should be hired to further evaluate this condition and treat or seal the substances as recommended. Please note that mold and mold testing is beyond the scope of this inspection. Given visible conditions at the time of inspection, and the fact that this is a new build, it seems likely this is just from the construction process. While this may not present any issues to the occupant, it could pose a re-sale issue. I recommend consulting with the Mold/mold mediator about options for documenting and / or sealing as recommended.
- Signs of mildew and mold need mold inspector follow recommendations.
- More signs of possible mildew and mold, have mold inspection follow recommendations.
Repairs
- G1-2 Grounds:
The grade of the yard is slopping toward the building - see north side. Standards recommend a quarter inch / foot slope away from the building or better to prevent water draining toward the house. Over time, negative grading, as this is often called, can lead to moisture and even structural problems with the house. Have this repaired as feasible by a qualified contractor. Often, a swale is used to create a low point away from the house into which water can be diverted away from and around the building. There is a hill at rear, we talked of adding and interceptor drain to stop water getting into basement and damaging foundation. We talked of a structural engineer to design system.
- G1-3 Grounds:
There are no gutters . Water is not getting away from the foundation area. All areas at foundation should beget sloped with grass, concrete or asphalt. Remove bushes and vegetation at foundation areas for better water control. I normally do not recommend gutters, but for this house I do.
- G1-4 Grounds:
Do not allow wood seller window frames to have wood ground contact. This will only lead to rotten insect infestation. Left side cellar Windows were either covered with wood or needed replacement.
- G1-5 Grounds:
- G1-6 Grounds:
The riser heights for the exterior entry stairs are not even and are not to modern standards. This is a trip and safety hazard. The height of the tallest riser shall not exceed the smallest riser by more than 3/8th of an inch. Hire a licensed general contractor to further evaluate and repair.
- ESDW-3 Exterior Siding, Doors and Windows:
Soffits/needs need to be repaired replaced as needed. Soffit venting should be considered.
- ESDW-4 Exterior Siding, Doors and Windows:
Rear glass ladder is older and has thermal leaks. Right side metal door is in need of repair or replacement and repair work around trim to make tightfitting.
- ESDW-5 Exterior Siding, Doors and Windows:
Windows are older and wood trim is peeling in some areas need repair
- Peeling paint and rot the sum trim areas of windows
- Older Windows with loose paint, time to update, More siding in need of repair
- DPB3-1 Decks, Porches and Balconies:
- Lumber was not new and I could not tell if it was pressure-treated lumber. Joist hangers were missing at several areas
- Remove bushes at porch area which holds moisture and leads to rot.
- Some new pressure-treated lumber was noted at decking. The porch was not level and had sags. This porch appears to be freestanding, a contractor needs to check for four foot deep footings and proper support. Get permit for all work done to decks recently.
- Rear deck was close to ground and structure was not visible for viewing at all areas. Proper connection to house including lag bolting, flashing, and joist hangers need to be present, to be verified by qualified contractor.
- G4-1 Garage:
- Standalone garage had list to the right. Another structure that would benefit from vinyl encapsulation. Proper preparation for painting and would repair replacement also would be needed.
- Structure had a new roof covering along with a newer leading to at right. Get permits for all work done.
- Do not allow wood ground contact is this only leads to rotten possible insect infestation 6 inches of foundation should always be visible, when possible. Expect some repairs to exterior. Talked of vinyl encapsulation.
- G4-2 Garage:
- Rear window was broken and will need repair or replacement
- Garage wiring will need to be updated as several problems were found including reversed polarity, open ground and no GFI's
- Open hot, wiring problem, see your electrician.
- Unknown if garage had foundation or just a footing. Hydrostatic pressure to garage floor has created lifting cracking and and uneven surface
- Rear window was broken and will need repair or replacement
- Garage wiring will need to be updated as several problems were found including reversed polarity, open ground and no GFI's
- Open hot, wiring problem, see your electrician.
- G4-3 Garage:
- Garage door was manual no auto opener. Garage door did not fit to bottom of floor. Garage floor had hydrostatic water pressure and was cracked and and even in several areas.
- G4-4 Garage:
Garage floor has suffered from hydrostatic water pressure which has resulted in cracks and uneven surfaces. Replace as needed see your Mason.
- SB-1 Structure and Basement:
This home is built on Block foundation. These foundations are common in many parts of the country and, depending on how they are installed, they can perform similar to poured concrete foundations. Unfortunately, brick or Block foundations are not reinforced, which makes them prone to water, frost push and seismic damage. There are new methods of reinforcement and suggest a structural engineer to evaluate. Rear of standup basement block walls had water signs and signs of movement. Talk to a structural engineer. Follow his recommendations.
- Water signs present
- This area was noted at the bulkhead at left rear. There are water signs and block movement.
- This area also at rear bulkhead area with water signs, water leakage and block movement
- SB-2 Structure and Basement:
Minor to moderate settlement was noted at foundation areas during inspection today. Be sure to correct any and all drainage recommendations to prevent further settlement (see Drainage section of this report) and monitor for signs of on-going movement. If conditions get worse, a structural engineer should be consulted for repair advice. The hope in older homes is that soils that were poorly compacted at construction have compacted with the weight of the building and may not continue to move as long as they stay dry.
- SB-3 Structure and Basement:
- This photo taken at bottom of basement stairs. Rot to wood sill area which is to adjacent to exterior rear deck. Rear deck needs to be evaluated that instructionally connected to house .This photo taken at bottom of basement stairs. Rot to wood sill area which is to adjacent to exterior rear deck. Rear deck needs to be evaluated that instructionally connected to house .
- Basement stairs need to be updated for safety including railings, kickboard, and riser and tread spacing. See a qualified contractor
- TI-1 Termite Inspection:
Finished areas prevent view of wood components. Wood sills and joists were probed where accessible. Some areas had insulation which prevented view in probing. Recommend you consult a termite treatment company for protection of your house. I found no damaged wood during inspection, but there is always a risk of concealed damage. I recommend consulting with a termite treatment company to protect your property.
- CS-2 Crawl Space:
Suggest 2' x 2' x 1' concrete footings and Lally columns replace old temporary jacks which are installed upside down.
- EDFW-2 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:
The use of GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) protection is inconsistent with modern minimum standards for safety. GFCI protection is recommended for the electrical receptacles in the following locations: the two dedicated kitchen appliance circuits, all receptacles within 6 feet of a sink, bathrooms, exterior, garage, unfinished basements, laundry and all wet and damp locations. GFCI's protect against electrocution by limiting the duration of an electrical shock. These are an important modern safety feature that have proven to save lives. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and update GFCI protection for improved safety. Examples of observations noted during inspection include: Include two bathrooms, kitchens, exteriors and garage.
- HCFV-2 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
Age of furnace unknown, if over 20 years of age have heat exchanger tested. Get all warranty papers from seller.
- Age unknown, heat exchangers normally last between 18 to 25 years. Expect replacement after that. Heat exchanges should be tested if 20 years or older. Call your oil company.
- No filter present, have your oil company inspect clean as needed.
- I-2 Interior:
Below are just some of the pictures indicating damage and the need to repair or replace some flooring.
- hole in floor sheet goods at shower bathroom floor. This hole goes right through the sheet goods, the subfloor, into the crawlspace below.
- Damage to several floor areas. Photo shows cupping and spaces between wood.
- Damage to sheet goods at kitchen floor
- Staining two wood floors. Some floors will have to be refinished as needed.
- I-3 Interior:
Below is just a small sample of needed repairs and possible signs of mildew and mold. Of course there may be mold behind walls that is not visible to see. A mold inspection, and a mold mitigation will be necessary on this house.
- Staining at back hall.
- Some staining and repairs to ceiling.
- What appears to be mildew/mold, have a mold inspection.
- Peeling ceiling in living room, underneath appears to be black mold, additional investigation needed including a mold inspector. Follow recommendations.
- I-4 Interior:
Plaster repair is needed. Plaster becomes loose when it looses the key that bonds the plaster to the lath. Once this key is lost, more extensive repairs are needed that are beyond cosmetic. Hire a plaster specialist to further evaluate and repair.
- I-5 Interior:
Below are just a sample of doors that have staining, need repair to latch, have staining and need hardware replacement.
- Some doors need repair to hardware, some doors need repair the latch and fit, some doors may have mildew/mold, some doors are missing. Note but possible mold to rear wall.
- Cellar door has damaged veneer .And possible mold
- I-6 Interior:
Repairs to shelving
- Staining, possible mildew and mold
- K-2 Kitchen:
The kitchen has no provisions for ventilation. An exhaust fan that ducts to the exterior is required at least somewhere in the kitchen. Lack of ventilation to the exterior is a potential safety hazard and will be inconvenient with cooking odors. The exhaust fan is not required to be located over the cooktop, but the kitchen needs ventilation somewhere. If the range is gas, it is recommended but not required that the ventilation be installed over the appliance. Hire a qualified contractor to further evaluate this installation and install a cooktop fan and exhaust system to the outdoors.
- Please note that for residences built prior to 1991, ventilation can be a window. Though this is allowed in theory, it is not recommended as many buildings are retrofit over the years to be more air-tight and ventilation to the exterior is universally helpful for moisture control and indoor air quality.
- A-3 Attic:
The attic insulation is rodent-damaged and incomplete. Remove all contaminated insulation and complete repairs to fans, wiring, ventilation.... Once repairs are complete re-insulate to modern standard or to best possible levels. Be sure to seal up all air leakage points during repairs and prior to insulating to modern standard be sure all rodent issues have been resolved and all projects like wiring and bath fans have been completed.
- Signs of mice
- Signs of possible mildew/mold, which may also be in the insulation, have a mold inspector inspect and follow his recommendations.
- Signs of mice. Need an exterminator to check and correct.
Recommended Maintenance Items
- RCG1-1 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:
The NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) recommends an annual inspection of all chimneys, fireplaces, solid fuel-burning appliances, and vents. They also recommend an NFPA 211 Standard, Level II inspection upon sale or transfer of the property. A Level II inspection includes, not only cleaning the interior of the chimney pipe, but also the use of specialized tools and testing procedures such as video cameras, etc. to thoroughly evaluate the serviceability of the entire flue lining and fireplace/chimney system. Level II inspections are not always needed, especially for short simple flues that can be inspected visually after a cleaning. If a chimney cleaning has not been performed over the past 12 months, such an inspection is recommended before the home changes ownership---for fire safety reasons. Implement any repairs as recommended.
- Unknown if chimney has a flue liner, recommended chimney sweep verify conditions and update as needed.
- Wood burning stoves need permits from the town to be present.How
- HCFV-3 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
Annual servicing of oil forced air furnaces is recommended for safe and reliable heat. I could not find recent service records on the furnace. A servicing is recommended if one has not been done in the last year. The furnace was tested during inspection and was operational.
Due Diligences
- P2-2 Plumbing:
Based on visible components, this property appears to have a private on-site septic system. These are specialty systems and are excluded from this inspection. Comments in this report related to this system are made as a courtesy only and are not meant to be a substitute for a full evaluation by a qualified specialist. Generally, septic tanks should be pumped and inspected every 3 years. Depending on the type of system and municipal regulations, inspection and maintenance may be required more frequently, often annually. I recommend:
- Investigating any information about this system's maintenance and repair history
- Reviewing any documentation available for this system
- Learning inspection and maintenance requirements for this system
- Hire a qualified specialist to evaluate, perform maintenance and make repairs as needed
Completed Items
- P2-1 Plumbing:
Water for this home appears to be supplied by a well system. Inspection of the well, water supply and water quality is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend hiring a well specialist to inspect and evaluate the well and well water. Well equipment: the pump and captive storage tank have limited service lives and often require updating on a 20-year schedule. There are other elements of a well system that should be evaluated as well, such as the well production, often tested in a draw down test, water quality and well depth.This is a Dug well and water pressure was so low it would not meet standard 5 gallon per minute testing, because of this testing was not done. Consult a water company.
Notes
- SB-4 Structure and Basement:
Please note that mold, mold testing and indoor air quality are beyond the scope of this inspection. If you are concerned about mold or indoor quality, I recommend additional inspection by a specialist. As a general rule, localized mold problems can often be easily repaired by removing or sealing the localized area that got wet. Best practices to control mold in buildings are to spend limited resources diagnosing and repairing water problems. Where water problems are chronic, mold problems can be more complex and expensive to correct. Where water problems are localized, mold repairs tend to be more limited in scope and less complex. There appears to be some signs of mildew/mold and recommend a mold inspector inspect this house from bottom basement to top attic ridge board. Follow his recommendation.
- CS-1 Crawl Space:
The photos provided here show representative images of this crawl space at the time of inspection.
- This crawlspace picture shows an opening to areas beyond where my camera of flashlight could view. Crawlspace height opening was to limited to enter. Recommend a qualified contractor go into crawlspace areas and inspect and report what could not be seen at this time. We have no knowledge that there is four foot Frost coverage to crawlspace foundation walls. There appeared to be some movement to block foundation wall at right rear wall/, area.
- Block supports were seen. 2' x 2' x 1' concrete footings and Lally columns are recommended for the future. It appeared some mildew and mold were present and need a mold inspector to verify. Follow his recommendations we talked of foam insulating crawlspace area.
- Possible mildew and mold, have tested.
- Block voting
- A-1 Attic:
I did not crawl the crawl space for the attic where there was no ramp or safe way to access the space. Crawling in the V of trusses or on top of framing risks damaging thermal barriers and ceiling finishes and is not a safe way to access an attic. This limited inspection of this space.
đ The Complete Inspection Report
General Comments
Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations
Style of Home: Ranch
Type of Building : Single Family (1 story with Basement)
Approximate Square Footage: 1100
The approximate square footage listed here is listed as a courtesy and is based off of public records and disclosure. An evaluation of square footage of the buildings and property lines is beyond the scope of this inspection.
Approximate Year of Original Construction: 1950's
Unless the wiring in the building has been fully updated, this building likely has wiring that predates the late 1980's. Branch circuit wiring installed in buildings built prior to the late 1980s is typically rated for a maximum temperature of only 60 degrees Celsius. This includes non-metallic sheathed (Romex) wiring, and both BX and AC metal-clad flexible wiring. Knob and tube wiring, typically installed in homes built prior to 1950, may be rated for even lower maximum temperatures. Newer electric fixtures including lighting and fans typically require wiring rated for 90 degrees Celsius. Connecting newer fixtures to older, 60-degree-rated wiring is a potential fire hazard. Repairs for such conditions may involve replacing the last few feet of wiring to newer fixtures with new 90-degree-rated wire, and installing a junction box to join the old and new wiring. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if any such incompatible components are installed. Based on the age of this building, be aware that such components may be present.
In 1978, federal laws were passed to prohibit use of lead and asbestos in building materials. Manufacturers of building materials were allowed to sell existing stocks of materials that were manufactured with lead and asbestos, so even buildings constructed as late as the mid-1980's could possibly contain lead or asbestos. Identification and testing for lead and asbestos and other environmental testing is beyond the scope of this home inspection. If you wish to seek additional information, I recommend contacting an environmental lab or industrial hygienist.
Attending the Inspection: Buyer and Buyer's Agent, Listing Agent
Occupancy: Unoccupied
Animals Present: No
Weather during the inspection: Clear
Approximate temperature during the inspection: Below 45[F]
Ground/Soil surface conditions: Damp, Snow-covered
For the Purposes of This Report, the Front Door Faces: South
This house was vacant / unoccupied at the time of inspection. Vacant and unoccupied houses present unique challenges for home inspection, especially the piping and wiring systems which have not be subject to regular use prior to the inspection. While these systems can be tested during inspection, this one-time test is different than regular use and it is difficult to know how these systems will respond to regular use after the inspection. For example, septic systems may initially function and then fail under regular daily use. Plumbing traps may operate with no signs of leaks and then let go when being actively used for a few days. Shower pans may only leak when someone is standing in the shower and taking a shower. Seals for plumbing fixtures can dry up and leak when not is use. Sewer lines with roots may allow water flow, but then fail when waste and tissue are flushed; it can take a few days for that to backup. Please understand we are trying our best to look for clues of past or existing problems to paint a realistic best-guess as to the reliability of these systems during inspection.
Grounds
General Grounds Photos
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Drainage and Site
Clearance to Grade: Standard
Site Description: Grade Toward Building
The grade of the yard is slopping toward the building - see north side. Standards recommend a quarter inch / foot slope away from the building or better to prevent water draining toward the house. Over time, negative grading, as this is often called, can lead to moisture and even structural problems with the house. Have this repaired as feasible by a qualified contractor. Often, a swale is used to create a low point away from the house into which water can be diverted away from and around the building. There is a hill at rear, we talked of adding and interceptor drain to stop water getting into basement and damaging foundation. We talked of a structural engineer to design system.
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There are no gutters . Water is not getting away from the foundation area. All areas at foundation should beget sloped with grass, concrete or asphalt. Remove bushes and vegetation at foundation areas for better water control. I normally do not recommend gutters, but for this house I do.
Driveways/Walkways/Flatwork
Driveway: None noted
Walkways: None noted
Window, Window Wells and Stairwells
None Noted
Do not allow wood seller window frames to have wood ground contact. This will only lead to rotten insect infestation. Left side cellar Windows were either covered with wood or needed replacement.
Exterior Stairs
Exterior Stairs: Wood
The riser heights for the exterior entry stairs are not even and are not to modern standards. This is a trip and safety hazard. The height of the tallest riser shall not exceed the smallest riser by more than 3/8th of an inch. Hire a licensed general contractor to further evaluate and repair.
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Exterior Siding, Doors and Windows
Siding and Trim
Trim Material: Wood
Siding Material: Vertical board siding
This siding has rot, Cupping, to such a degree that vinyl encapsulation is recommended. Initial repairs as needed.
- There are no gutters and front porch siding is working water
- Rear siding has rotting at bottom base area, again there are no gutters. There should be no wood ground contact.
- Rod to base, there are no gutters we talked better water control, vertical board siding also has cupping
- This area is to rear left,'this area is located to left rear over the bulkhead area, rot and repair needed
- Siding has cupping, and repairs needed
- Picture of left side siding, Cupping and repairs needed.
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The exterior siding and trim needs to be re-painted to preserve and maintain the siding system. Budget for re-painting the exterior in the near term. This is routine maintenance, but I list as a major concern due to upcoming cost. Examples of specific observations noted during inspection include: Siding needs repair to many areas that are rotted, many areas need re-nailing that are cupped, and scraping or stone dust blasting to clean loose paint. Because of the extent of work we recommend limited repairs and vinyl and encapsulation.
Eaves
Wood
Soffits/needs need to be repaired replaced as needed. Soffit venting should be considered.
Exterior Doors
Metal with glass, Metal
Rear glass ladder is older and has thermal leaks. Right side metal door is in need of repair or replacement and repair work around trim to make tightfitting.
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Exterior Window Frames
Wood
Windows are older and wood trim is peeling in some areas need repair
- Peeling paint and rot the sum trim areas of windows
- Older Windows with loose paint, time to update, More siding in need of repair
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Decks, Porches and Balconies
Wood Decks Porches and Balconies
Present
To see a prescriptive guide for residential wood deck construction click this link:
Structure: Non-treated lumber, Front and rear
- Lumber was not new and I could not tell if it was pressure-treated lumber. Joist hangers were missing at several areas
- Remove bushes at porch area which holds moisture and leads to rot.
- Some new pressure-treated lumber was noted at decking. The porch was not level and had sags. This porch appears to be freestanding, a contractor needs to check for four foot deep footings and proper support. Get permit for all work done to decks recently.
- Rear deck was close to ground and structure was not visible for viewing at all areas. Proper connection to house including lag bolting, flashing, and joist hangers need to be present, to be verified by qualified contractor.
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Garage
Garage General
Garage Type: Detached
- Standalone garage had list to the right. Another structure that would benefit from vinyl encapsulation. Proper preparation for painting and would repair replacement also would be needed.
- Structure had a new roof covering along with a newer leading to at right. Get permits for all work done.
- Do not allow wood ground contact is this only leads to rotten possible insect infestation 6 inches of foundation should always be visible, when possible. Expect some repairs to exterior. Talked of vinyl encapsulation.
- Rear window was broken and will need repair or replacement
- Garage wiring will need to be updated as several problems were found including reversed polarity, open ground and no GFI's
- Open hot, wiring problem, see your electrician.
- Unknown if garage had foundation or just a footing. Hydrostatic pressure to garage floor has created lifting cracking and and uneven surface
- Rear window was broken and will need repair or replacement
- Garage wiring will need to be updated as several problems were found including reversed polarity, open ground and no GFI's
- Open hot, wiring problem, see your electrician.
Garage Doors and Automatic Openers
- Garage door was manual no auto opener. Garage door did not fit to bottom of floor. Garage floor had hydrostatic water pressure and was cracked and and even in several areas.
Garage Floor
Garage Slab: Concrete, Large Cracks Noted in Slab Not Foundation
Garage floor has suffered from hydrostatic water pressure which has resulted in cracks and uneven surfaces. Replace as needed see your Mason.
Roof, Chimney and Gutters
Roof Materials
Method of Roof Inspection: Viewed through telescopic camera
Roof Style: Gable
Flashings: Present and Visually Standard
Roof flashings are used to keep a roofing system waterproof where the roofing material starts, stops, changes direction or is penetrated. During inspection, we look for standard flashing techniques that could be considered normal or standard in our region. Damaged, incomplete or non-standard flashings can be a sign of an older or less reliable roofing system and may require repair. Any non-standard flashings noted during inspection will be reported on below if found.
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Roof Covering Materials: Architectural grade composition shingle
Approximate Age of Roof Covering: 10-12 Years
Overlay Roof: Unknown, roof flashing obstructs visible view
Chimneys
Chimney Material: Masonry
Chimney Flue Liners: Not visible
The NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) recommends an annual inspection of all chimneys, fireplaces, solid fuel-burning appliances, and vents. They also recommend an NFPA 211 Standard, Level II inspection upon sale or transfer of the property. A Level II inspection includes, not only cleaning the interior of the chimney pipe, but also the use of specialized tools and testing procedures such as video cameras, etc. to thoroughly evaluate the serviceability of the entire flue lining and fireplace/chimney system. Level II inspections are not always needed, especially for short simple flues that can be inspected visually after a cleaning. If a chimney cleaning has not been performed over the past 12 months, such an inspection is recommended before the home changes ownership---for fire safety reasons. Implement any repairs as recommended.
- Unknown if chimney has a flue liner, recommended chimney sweep verify conditions and update as needed.
- Wood burning stoves need permits from the town to be present.How
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Structure and Basement
Foundation
% of Foundation Not Visible: 0%
Building Configuration: Basement, Crawl space
Foundation Description: Masonry block
Basement floor: Dirt
This home is built on Block foundation. These foundations are common in many parts of the country and, depending on how they are installed, they can perform similar to poured concrete foundations. Unfortunately, brick or Block foundations are not reinforced, which makes them prone to water, frost push and seismic damage. There are new methods of reinforcement and suggest a structural engineer to evaluate. Rear of standup basement block walls had water signs and signs of movement. Talk to a structural engineer. Follow his recommendations.
- Water signs present
- This area was noted at the bulkhead at left rear. There are water signs and block movement.
- This area also at rear bulkhead area with water signs, water leakage and block movement
Minor to moderate settlement was noted at foundation areas during inspection today. Be sure to correct any and all drainage recommendations to prevent further settlement (see Drainage section of this report) and monitor for signs of on-going movement. If conditions get worse, a structural engineer should be consulted for repair advice. The hope in older homes is that soils that were poorly compacted at construction have compacted with the weight of the building and may not continue to move as long as they stay dry.
Floor, Wall and Ceiling Framing
Floor Framing: 2 x 11" this wood has been repurposed, as it has been used before.
Sub-Floor Material: Wood boards
Girders: Field Laminated
Sill/s: Wood
- This photo taken at bottom of basement stairs. Rot to wood sill area which is to adjacent to exterior rear deck. Rear deck needs to be evaluated that instructionally connected to house .This photo taken at bottom of basement stairs. Rot to wood sill area which is to adjacent to exterior rear deck. Rear deck needs to be evaluated that instructionally connected to house .
- Basement stairs need to be updated for safety including railings, kickboard, and riser and tread spacing. See a qualified contractor
Basement Moisture
Present
As a general rule, older basements are prone to seasonal dampness and moisture issues. This is because there were no industry standards to water proof foundations at the time this home was built. Today's basements will likely be sealed on the outside with concrete sealer over the foundation. On top of this a water-proofing fabric is applied which will divert water into a footing drain system at the base of the foundation; old basements usually have none of these water-proofing systems installed. Some old basements do stay dry - typically the result of a good site and good soil drainage around the building. This is impossible to evaluate or predict during a visual home inspection.
- Water was present throughout basement floor. There appeared to be a drain at rear area in front of bulkhead although this was over full. There was an additional drain at front of house which appeared to be taking water, but I do not know where this leads to. Ask seller. We talked of installing exterior interceptor drains and or interior perimeter drain systems. Talk to water contractors and or structural engineer
- Water has led to rotting at bottom of temporary adjustable Jack. Replace as needed.
Please note that mold, mold testing and indoor air quality are beyond the scope of this inspection. If you are concerned about mold or indoor quality, I recommend additional inspection by a specialist. As a general rule, localized mold problems can often be easily repaired by removing or sealing the localized area that got wet. Best practices to control mold in buildings are to spend limited resources diagnosing and repairing water problems. Where water problems are chronic, mold problems can be more complex and expensive to correct. Where water problems are localized, mold repairs tend to be more limited in scope and less complex. There appears to be some signs of mildew/mold and recommend a mold inspector inspect this house from bottom basement to top attic ridge board. Follow his recommendation.
Termite Inspection
Wood Destroying Organisms
Visible Evidence of Active Wood Destroying Insects: None noted, Bruce
Finished areas prevent view of wood components. Wood sills and joists were probed where accessible. Some areas had insulation which prevented view in probing. Recommend you consult a termite treatment company for protection of your house. I found no damaged wood during inspection, but there is always a risk of concealed damage. I recommend consulting with a termite treatment company to protect your property.
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Crawl Space
General Crawl Space
Crawl Space: Present
The photos provided here show representative images of this crawl space at the time of inspection.
- This crawlspace picture shows an opening to areas beyond where my camera of flashlight could view. Crawlspace height opening was to limited to enter. Recommend a qualified contractor go into crawlspace areas and inspect and report what could not be seen at this time. We have no knowledge that there is four foot Frost coverage to crawlspace foundation walls. There appeared to be some movement to block foundation wall at right rear wall/, area.
- Block supports were seen. 2' x 2' x 1' concrete footings and Lally columns are recommended for the future. It appeared some mildew and mold were present and need a mold inspector to verify. Follow his recommendations we talked of foam insulating crawlspace area.
- Possible mildew and mold, have tested.
- Block voting
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Posts and Footings
Non-standard
Suggest 2' x 2' x 1' concrete footings and Lally columns replace old temporary jacks which are installed upside down.
Electric Service
Electrical System Safety Overview
Overall, numerous problems were noted in the wiring system indicating older, incomplete and unreliable wiring practices. I recommend a complete evaluation of the entire electrical system by a qualified electrical contractor. Implement repairs and updates as recommended.
Examples of repairs and improvements may include:
- Updating of older two-prong or two-wire system
- Updating of old and damaged receptacles
- Supporting all loose wiring
- Correcting all receptacles with reverse polarity
- Correcting all open grounds
Electric Service
Service Entrance: Above Ground
Meter Base Amperage: 100
Electric Service Equipment
Main Panel Amperage: 100 amps
Electrical Grounding System
Present - Could Not Confirm
During a home or property inspection, every effort is made to inspect the visible components of the electrical system grounding. The grounding system is critical for safely discharging electrical surges, especially in the case of lightning strikes. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of the grounding system as much of the system is not visible and there are not practical tests one can perform in the way we can test a furnace or a plumbing fixture. However, there are many things that can lead me to recommend further evaluation of the grounding system by a licensed electrical contractor and they will be documented in the observations below if discovered.
Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring
Branch Wiring
Wire Material: Copper
Wiring Method: Non-metallic sheathed cable, Armored flexible cable
Overall, numerous defects and red flags were noted in the wiring system indicating old, unreliable and incomplete wiring practices. I recommend additional inspection and repair of the entire wiring system by a licensed electrical contractor as additional repairs could be needed that are latent or concealed. This should be considered urgent for safety reasons. Examples of observations and defects found during inspection are included in the Electric chapter as repair items and also include:
Branch Wiring and Wiring Cables
- Running splices noted. This is when wires are spliced together and left exposed. Splicing should be done inside of junction boxes.
Bathroom Wiring
- Electric receptacles are inadequate in the bathroom. Today's standards require receptacles within 3-feet of each sink and should be located no more than 12 inches below the sink
Kitchen Wiring
- The kitchen appears to be under-wired - modern standards recommended at least two 20-amp circuits for countertop receptacles.
- GFCI protection for the kitchen is incomplete - all countertop receptacle should be GFCI protected for safety.
Receptacles and Fixtures
The use of GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) protection is inconsistent with modern minimum standards for safety. GFCI protection is recommended for the electrical receptacles in the following locations: the two dedicated kitchen appliance circuits, all receptacles within 6 feet of a sink, bathrooms, exterior, garage, unfinished basements, laundry and all wet and damp locations. GFCI's protect against electrocution by limiting the duration of an electrical shock. These are an important modern safety feature that have proven to save lives. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and update GFCI protection for improved safety. Examples of observations noted during inspection include: Include two bathrooms, kitchens, exteriors and garage.
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Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation
Heating System
Energy Source: Oil
Heating Method: Oil forced air furnace
Age: Could not determine
Have independent oil company check and replace oil tank as needed.
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Age of furnace unknown, if over 20 years of age have heat exchanger tested. Get all warranty papers from seller.
- Age unknown, heat exchangers normally last between 18 to 25 years. Expect replacement after that. Heat exchanges should be tested if 20 years or older. Call your oil company.
- No filter present, have your oil company inspect clean as needed.
Annual servicing of oil forced air furnaces is recommended for safe and reliable heat. I could not find recent service records on the furnace. A servicing is recommended if one has not been done in the last year. The furnace was tested during inspection and was operational.
Solid Fuel Fireplaces
Fireplace Types: Wood stove
Plumbing
Water Service Supply
Pipe Material: Plastic
Water Supply: Private well
Water Pressure: Not sufficient
Water for this home appears to be supplied by a well system. Inspection of the well, water supply and water quality is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend hiring a well specialist to inspect and evaluate the well and well water. Well equipment: the pump and captive storage tank have limited service lives and often require updating on a 20-year schedule. There are other elements of a well system that should be evaluated as well, such as the well production, often tested in a draw down test, water quality and well depth.This is a Dug well and water pressure was so low it would not meet standard 5 gallon per minute testing, because of this testing was not done. Consult a water company.
Distribution Pipe
Supply Pipe Materials: Copper
Copper water supply pipes were installed. Copper pipes installed prior to the late 1980's may be joined with solder that contains lead, which is a known health hazard especially for children. Laws were passed in 1985 prohibiting the use of lead in solder, but prior to that solder normally contained approximately 50% lead. Note that testing for toxic materials such as lead, is beyond the scope of this inspection. Consider having a qualified lab test for lead, and if necessary take steps to reduce or remove lead from the water supply. Various solutions include:
- Flush water taps or faucets. Do not drink water that has been sitting in the plumbing lines for more than 6 hours
- Install appropriate filters at points of use
- Use only cold water for cooking and drinking, as hot water dissolves lead more quickly than cold water
- Treat well water to make it less corrosive
- Have a qualified plumber replace supply pipes and/or plumbing components as necessary
Functional Flow: Poor
Waste Pipe and Discharge
Discharge Type: Septic System - Buyer
Waste and Vent Pipe Materials: PVC
Based on visible components, this property appears to have a private on-site septic system. These are specialty systems and are excluded from this inspection. Comments in this report related to this system are made as a courtesy only and are not meant to be a substitute for a full evaluation by a qualified specialist. Generally, septic tanks should be pumped and inspected every 3 years. Depending on the type of system and municipal regulations, inspection and maintenance may be required more frequently, often annually. I recommend:
- Investigating any information about this system's maintenance and repair history
- Reviewing any documentation available for this system
- Learning inspection and maintenance requirements for this system
- Hire a qualified specialist to evaluate, perform maintenance and make repairs as needed
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Interior
General Interior Photos
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Floors and Floor Materials
Floor Materials: Wood, Plastic sheet goods
Below are just some of the pictures indicating damage and the need to repair or replace some flooring.
- hole in floor sheet goods at shower bathroom floor. This hole goes right through the sheet goods, the subfloor, into the crawlspace below.
- Damage to several floor areas. Photo shows cupping and spaces between wood.
- Damage to sheet goods at kitchen floor
- Staining two wood floors. Some floors will have to be refinished as needed.
Walls, Ceilings, Trim, Hallways and Closets
Wall and Ceiling Materials: Plaster, Wood, Wood paneling
Below is just a small sample of needed repairs and possible signs of mildew and mold. Of course there may be mold behind walls that is not visible to see. A mold inspection, and a mold mitigation will be necessary on this house.
- Staining at back hall.
- Some staining and repairs to ceiling.
- What appears to be mildew/mold, have a mold inspection.
- Peeling ceiling in living room, underneath appears to be black mold, additional investigation needed including a mold inspector. Follow recommendations.
Plaster repair is needed. Plaster becomes loose when it looses the key that bonds the plaster to the lath. Once this key is lost, more extensive repairs are needed that are beyond cosmetic. Hire a plaster specialist to further evaluate and repair.
Interior Doors
Below are just a sample of doors that have staining, need repair to latch, have staining and need hardware replacement.
- Some doors need repair to hardware, some doors need repair the latch and fit, some doors may have mildew/mold, some doors are missing. Note but possible mold to rear wall.
- Cellar door has damaged veneer .And possible mold
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Repairs to shelving
- Staining, possible mildew and mold
Windows
Window Glazing: Double pane
Interior Window Frame: Wood
Window Styles: Double hung
Most of the windows in this home are old windows that require maintenance and repair. You need to decide how you want to approach the windows in this home as they are generally older and do not comply with modern standards for safety glass and energy efficiency. Repairs can be made on an as needed basis and efficiency can be added with storm windows and curtains. Existing windows that have character are often worth preserving and restoring, where windows that are in worse condition and have less character may be good candidates for replacement. The windows Below are just a few samples of windows or need a repair replacement. Skylight at kitchen had a blind that could not be operated, making view difficult. The skylight was either dirty, or had a thermal seal leak. Have a contractor check and correct as needed.
- More thermal seal leaks.
- At rear glass slider there are thermal seal leaks, the exterior has no kickboard, a contractor will have to look and repair or replace this entire area.
- Left side casement window has both damage to wood frame and wood frame window and window has thermal seal leak. Window is pulling away from house.
- Water damage to wood sill.
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Kitchen
General Kitchen Photos
- More possible mildew and mold signs. Again we need a mold inspector to verify and make recommendations.
- Possible mildew/mold on wood shelving
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Sinks and Faucets
Tested
Cabinets and Countertops
Countertop Material: Plastic laminate
Cabinet Material: Wood
Dishwasher
Dishwasher: Not Operated, Dishwasher was rusted at interior and needs replacement.
Ventilation Method
The kitchen has no provisions for ventilation. An exhaust fan that ducts to the exterior is required at least somewhere in the kitchen. Lack of ventilation to the exterior is a potential safety hazard and will be inconvenient with cooking odors. The exhaust fan is not required to be located over the cooktop, but the kitchen needs ventilation somewhere. If the range is gas, it is recommended but not required that the ventilation be installed over the appliance. Hire a qualified contractor to further evaluate this installation and install a cooktop fan and exhaust system to the outdoors.
- Please note that for residences built prior to 1991, ventilation can be a window. Though this is allowed in theory, it is not recommended as many buildings are retrofit over the years to be more air-tight and ventilation to the exterior is universally helpful for moisture control and indoor air quality.
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Ranges, Ovens and Cooktops
Range/ Oven /Cook-tops: Gas Issues (Gas Shut Off Noted), Not tested
Main Bathroom
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
Attic
Attic Access
Climbed ladder, Viewed at access
I did not crawl the crawl space for the attic where there was no ramp or safe way to access the space. Crawling in the V of trusses or on top of framing risks damaging thermal barriers and ceiling finishes and is not a safe way to access an attic. This limited inspection of this space.
Roof Framing and Sheathing
Rafters: 2x6
Sheathing: Boards
Mold-like substances were noted on several sheets of Wood boards in the attic. If you are concerned about molds, a mold remediation specialist should be hired to further evaluate this condition and treat or seal the substances as recommended. Please note that mold and mold testing is beyond the scope of this inspection. Given visible conditions at the time of inspection, and the fact that this is a new build, it seems likely this is just from the construction process. While this may not present any issues to the occupant, it could pose a re-sale issue. I recommend consulting with the Mold/mold mediator about options for documenting and / or sealing as recommended.
- Signs of mildew and mold need mold inspector follow recommendations.
- More signs of possible mildew and mold, have mold inspection follow recommendations.
Attic Insulation
Insulation Type: Fiberglass
The attic insulation is rodent-damaged and incomplete. Remove all contaminated insulation and complete repairs to fans, wiring, ventilation.... Once repairs are complete re-insulate to modern standard or to best possible levels. Be sure to seal up all air leakage points during repairs and prior to insulating to modern standard be sure all rodent issues have been resolved and all projects like wiring and bath fans have been completed.
- Signs of mice
- Signs of possible mildew/mold, which may also be in the insulation, have a mold inspector inspect and follow his recommendations.
- Signs of mice. Need an exterminator to check and correct.
Receipt -- đ The Complete Inspection Report
| Inspection Fee | $495.00 |
| $495.00 | |
| PAID |