General Contractor
How to Read This Report
This is a limited, visual, non-invasive inspection. It is not a warranty, a code inspection, or a technically exhaustive evaluation. See the Scope & Limitations chapter at the end of this report for full details.
Getting the Information to You
This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a quick look at our "Summary Page” and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos and hot links to additional information. This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document, but the best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online, which will allow you to expand your learning about the inspected property.
Chapters and Sections
This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.
Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there may be no narrative observation comments in that section and it may simply say “tested,” or “inspected.”
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
- Note:These are informational comments that aren't deficiencies. They describe how we inspected different components of the house, add detail about the home's systems, and explain any limitations that affected the inspection. They also include contextual photos of the house and photos of components while they were operating.
- Tier 1 - Major Concern:These represent priority items like major safety issues, active issues causing damage to the house, or items of significant expense that are looming in the near future.
- Tier 2 - Repair:These are lower priority deficiencies that may not need immediate attention, but should be addressed in the near/medium term future. These are usually improperly functioning components, deferred maintenance items, occupant safety concerns, or sub-par construction/installation problems.
- Tier 3 - Improvement:These are things that are working but could be better. They are less significant issues like nuisance repairs, minor safety updates, energy efficiency improvements, or potential reliability problems. Often these are improvements that may not have been necessary--or even have existed--when the property being inspected was constructed (e.g. changes in building standards over time.)
- Due Diligence:Observations that may require further investigation and/or clarification that could not be provided during the home inspection.
- Future Project:These are longer term considerations for the house and include things like repairs that may be deferred for some time but should be on the radar for repair or replacement in the future, optional upgrades to the house's function, and potential future hidden costs.
- Monitor:Items that should be watched to see if correction may be needed in the future.
- Maintenance:These are items that should be considered "routine home ownership," such as servicing the furnace, cleaning the gutters or changing the air filters in the furnace. Generally a house costs ~1% of the purchase price per year to maintain.
- Homeowner Info:These are pieces of "good to know" information about the house, essentially an owner's manual. For example, the location of the main water shut-off valve, gas shut-off valve(s), etc.
Summary Page
The Summary Page is a quick, bulleted overview of the observations from this inspection, grouped by category. The Tier 1, Tier 2, and Tier 3 sections list the deficiencies we found. The remaining sections, like Monitor, Due Diligence, Maintenance, and Homeowner Info, are listed for easy reference. This overview is not a substitution for reading the entire inspection report.
General Contractor
Tier 2 - Repairs
- 3.2.1 Exterior - Siding & Trim:
Inadequate clearances were noted between the roof and the siding, see photo(s). A 2 inch air gap is recommended here to keep the siding off the roof and prevent deterioration of the siding. This installation should be accompanied by step flashings that adequately protect the wall and roof juncture from leaks. I recommend evaluation and repair by a qualified contractor.
Contractor:General ContractorRoofer - 10.5.4 Attic - Insulation:
The fiberglass batt insulation was installed with the backing exposed in the attics with doors along the east side of the house, see example photos. The paper backing is supposed to be covered, or it is a fire hazard. I recommend repair by a qualified contractor.
Contractor:General Contractor
Tier 3 - Improvements
- 3.6.3 Exterior - Decks, Porches, & Balconies:
The decking for the wood deck had been installed too close together in places. When decking boards are installed too close together it can trap water and lead to premature deterioration of the decking. Decking boards should have adequate spacing (3/8th inch is standard) to ensure proper drainage and to eliminate standing water that could make the deck slippery or cause premature wood decay. I recommend repair by a qualified contractor.
Contractor:General Contractor - 5.5.1 Common Spaces & Bedrooms - Stairs & Railings:
Stairs were missing a graspable handrail for safety, see photo(s). Modern building standards recommend a round railing 1 and 1/4 inches - 2 inches in diameter. If the railing is not round it must have a finger groove that is 3/4 of an inch down from the tallest point of the rail. The graspable handrail should also be 1.5 inches from the wall. I recommend installation of a graspable handrail by a qualified contractor.
Contractor:General Contractor - 5.5.2 Common Spaces & Bedrooms - Stairs & Railings:
Stairs wider than 44 inches only had a single handrail installed, see photo(s). Modern building standards recommend two graspable (something you can put your hand around, see first photo) handrails for stairs wider than 44 inches. I recommend installation of an additional handrail by a qualified contractor.
Contractor:General Contractor - 5.5.4 Common Spaces & Bedrooms - Stairs & Railings:
Railing balusters were spaced too far apart, see photo(s). Modern building standards recommend gaps between balusters be less than 4 inches. This is a safety improvement for children. I recommend repair by a qualified contractor.
Contractor:General Contractor - 5.6.1 Common Spaces & Bedrooms - Interior Doors:
Door(s) did not latch and stay closed in the following location(s): Attic Access Door in Second Level South Bedroom. I recommend repair by a qualified contractor.
Contractor:General Contractor - 7.6.6 Kitchen - Appliances:
Lack of a proper air gap was noted at dishwasher drain line. In the event of a drain backup, this device prevents waste water from entering the dishwasher. I recommend installation of an air gap by a qualified plumber.
However, an air gap requires a hole through the counter top, which can be quite difficult to create, depending on the counter top material. This dishwasher drain was installed with a "high loop" which is an easier alternative to an air gap. In a high loop, the dishwasher drain hose is attached as high as possible under the kitchen cabinets before flowing into the drain, so any backflowing water must overcome gravity to contaminate the dishwasher. High loops are effective, but not as effective as true air gaps. Many states consider a high loop sufficient, but Washington State does require an air gap.
Contractor:General Contractor - 8.3.1 Laundry / Utility Room - Washer:
No drip pan was installed under the washing machine. When installed in living space, having a drip pan underneath the washing machine (ideally that drains to the exterior) is recommended to prevent water damage from leaks. I recommend installation of a proper drip pan by a qualified contractor.
Contractor:General Contractor - 10.5.5 Attic - Insulation:
There was less attic insulation than current building standards recommend. I recommend addition of more insulation by a qualified contractor. This would be an energy efficiency upgrade for the house.
Contractor:General Contractor - 11.8.4 Structure & Basement - Insulation:
Crawl space insulation was lower than modern building standards recommend. I recommend installation of additional insulation by a qualified contractor until it reaches a minimum R-25.
Contractor:General Contractor - 15.9.2 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces, & Ventilation - Mechanical Ventilation Systems:
The primary bathroom and second level hall bathroom fan ducts were spliced into each other, see photo. This is not ideal as moisture can travel from one duct to the other instead of being exhausted from the house. I recommend installation of a dedicated port for each fan by a qualified contractor.
Contractor:General Contractor




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