The Scope and Purpose of a Home Inspection
Purchasing property involves risk
The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a house by providing a professional opinion about its condition. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we don’t know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend that you attend at least part of the inspection.
A home inspection is not an insurance policy
This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Home warranties can be purchased separately from insuring firms that provide this service.
A home inspection is visual and not destructive
The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing which will limit the scope of the inspection. Where moisture meter testing is indicated in this report a Protimeter Surveymaster was used.
This is not an inspection for code compliance
This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction process structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, and this limits the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are augmented at least every three years for all of the varying disciplines. Municipalities can choose to adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their own timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done.
This is just our opinion
Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are the opinions of the home inspector. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have some differing opinions. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals.
The scope of this inspection
This inspection will include the following systems: exterior, roof, structure, drainage, foundation, attic, interior, plumbing, electrical and heating. The evaluation will be based on limited observations that are primarily visual and non-invasive. This inspection and report are not intended to be technically exhaustive. We follow the InterNACHI Standards of Practice.
Your expectations
The overall goal of a home inspection is to help ensure that your expectations are appropriate with the house you are proposing to buy or sell. To this end we assist with discovery by showing and documenting observations during the home inspection. This should not be mistaken for a technically exhaustive inspection designed to uncover every defect with a building. Such inspections are available but they are generally cost-prohibitive to most homebuyers.
Your participation is requested
Your presence is requested during this inspection. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by a shared visual observation of the conditions of the property.
How to Read This Report
Getting the Information to You
This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a quick look at our "Summary Page” and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos and hot links to additional information.
The best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online, which will allow you to expand your learning about the inspected property. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined – clicking on these will provide you with a link to additional information.
This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document.
Chapters and Sections
This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.
Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there may be no narrative observation comments in that section and it may simply say “tested,” or “inspected.”
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
- Procedure:Description of the procedure I follow while inspecting various components of a house.
- Note:Refers to aside information and/or any comments elaborating on descriptions of systems in the home or limitations to the home inspection. These also include contextual photos of the house and pictures of various components of the house while operating.
- Tier 1 - Major Concern:These represent priority items like major safety issues, active issues causing damage to the house, or items of significant expense that are looming in the near future.
- Tier 2 - Repair:These are lower priority deficiencies that may not need immediate attention, but should be addressed in the near/medium term future. These are usually deferred maintenance items, occupant safety concerns, or sub-par construction/installation problems.
- Tier 3 - Improve:These are things that are working but could be better. These are minor items like nuisance repairs, minor safety updates, energy efficiency improvements, or potential reliability problems. Often these are improvements that may not have been necessary--or even have existed--when the property being inspected was constructed (e.g. changes in building standards over time.)
- Monitor:Items that should be watched to see if correction may be needed in the future.
- Future Project:A repair that may be deferred for some time but should be on the radar for repair or replacement in the future. Also optional upgrades to the house's function.
- Due Diligence:Observations that may require further investigation and/or clarification that could not be provided during the home inspection.
- Recommended Maintenance:These are items that should be considered "routine home ownership," such as servicing the furnace, cleaning the gutters or changing the air filters in the furnace. Generally a house costs ~1% of the purchase price per year to maintain.
- Homeowner Info:These are pieces of "good to know" information about the house. For example, the location of the main water shut-off valve, gas shut-off valve(s), etc.
Summary Page
The Summary Page is designed as a quick-to-read bulleted overview of all the observations noted during inspection. This overview is not a substitution for reading the entire inspection report. The entire report must be read to get a complete understanding of this inspection report as the Summary Page does not include photographs or photo captions, and most of the comments in the report will have photos of what is being discussed. Click on the link next to each comment to jump to the section in the report with the photos and the captions which may provide additional detail on the specific comment.
Summary
Tier 1 - Major Concerns
- E-15 Electrical - Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detector Systems:
There were no visible smoke detectors on the first level. Recommend installing smoke detectors in hallways and bedrooms as significant safety feature for occupants. Each level should have at least one smoke detector. DIY project.
- E-16 Electrical - Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detector Systems:
There were no visible carbon monoxide detectors on the second level. Modern building standards require a carbon monoxide detector in a common area on every floor of any residential dwelling. Recommend installation by homeowner as a DIY project.
Tier 2 - Repairs
- G-6 Grounds - Trees and Vegetation:
Some branches were touching the roof, see photo(s.) When these branches move during wind, they can damage the roofing material. Also these branches provide a path onto the roof and into the attic space for rodents. Recommend evaluation and trimming of branches by a qualified contractor.
- G-8 Grounds - Trees and Vegetation:
Vegetation was touching--or was in close proximity--to the siding, see photo(s.) This can trap moisture against the siding which is a conducive condition for rot, or allow a pathway onto the roof/into the attic for rodents. Recommend pruning all vegetation back to give at least 12 inches of clearance to the siding. DIY repair.
- EDPB-2 Exteriors, Decks, Porches, and Balconies - Siding and Trim:
Inadequate clearances were noted between the roof and the siding, see photo(s.) A 2 inch air gap is recommended here to keep the siding off the roof and prevent deterioration of the siding. This installation should be accompanied by step flashings that adequately protect the wall and roof juncture from leaks. Recommend evaluation and repair by a qualified contractor.
- EDPB-3 Exteriors, Decks, Porches, and Balconies - Exterior Doors:
Daylight was visible through exterior door(s), see photo(s.) Recommend adding weather striping to increase energy efficiency. DIY project.
- B-1 Bathrooms - Toilets:
Toilet(s) in the following location(s) was/were loosely mounted to the floor: First Level Bathroom and Primary Bathroom. This can allow the toilet to rock and slide when used, which damages the wax ring seal and can allow water to seep into the floor cavity. When using a moisture meter, no evidence of a leak was observed, but this should be repaired as a proactive measure. Recommend repair by a qualified plumber.
Note: There are non-wax rings (rubber or foam) that are less likely leak if a toilet is loosely mounted. However, wax rings are the most commonly used type of seal, and without removing the toilet, it is impossible to know which type of seal was used.
- B-3 Bathrooms - Bathtubs / Showers:
The primary bathroom bathtub was slow to drain. Recommend cleaning as a DIY repair. If that is not successful, further repair by a qualified plumber may be needed.
- G1-4 Garage - Garage Door and Automatic Opener:
The garage door auto-reversing pressure sensors did not function properly on either door. The auto-pressure reverse sensor should trigger when the garage door hits something. It should trigger with 10 pounds of force or less. This sensor will immediately stop the door and cause it to reverse to prevent the door from crushing something. Most garage door openers have a way to adjust the sensitivity of this sensor. Recommend adjustment at garage door opener as a DIY repair. If adjustment is not sufficient, or if this opener does not have a way to adjust the sensitivity, recommend repair by a qualified contractor.
- A-3 Attic - Attic Insulation:
The fiberglass batt insulation was installed with the backing exposed in the attics with doors along the east side of the house, see example photos. The paper backing is supposed to be covered or it is a fire hazard. Recommend repair by a qualified contractor.
- A-5 Attic - Miscellaneous:
There was what appeared to be a bird nest in the attic, see photo(s.) Recommend removal and screening of any access points by a qualified contractor.
- P-3 Plumbing - Water Pressure:
Water pressure was high; see photo of a water pressure gauge on an exterior hose spigot. Normal residential water pressure is between 40 and 60 PSI. Anything over 80 PSI is considered excessive. This can be hard on appliances that use water (washing machines, dishwashers, etc) and can overstrain plumbing fittings, increasing the chance of leaks. Recommend installation of a pressure regulator by a qualified plumber, and adjusting it until water pressure is below 80 PSI.
- P-4 Plumbing - Interior Distribution Pipes:
The supply pipe insulation was incomplete in the crawl space, see example photo(s.) All supply lines in unheated spaces should be insulated to protect from freezing conditions that could damage the pipes and to prevent heat loss. DIY repair.
- FSD-9 Fuel Storage and Distribution - Shut-Off Valve Locations:
No gas shut-off valve was observed by the front living room gas fireplace. Modern building standards recommend an accessible gas shut-off valve be installed within 6 feet (though being in the same room is often considered good enough.) Recommend installation of an accessible gas shut-off valve by a qualified plumber.
- HCFV-2 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces, and Ventilation - Furnace:
Recommend inspection and service of furnace by a qualified HVAC contractor as it had been a year or more since the last service. This will help ensure the furnace is operating safely and efficiently.
Tier 3 - Improvements
- EDPB-4 Exteriors, Decks, Porches, and Balconies - Decks, Balconies, and Porches:
The decking for the wood deck had been installed too close together in places. When decking boards are installed too close together it can trap water and lead to premature deterioration of the decking. Decking boards should have adequate spacing (3/8th inch is standard) to ensure proper drainage and to eliminate standing water that could make the deck slippery or cause premature wood decay. Recommend repair by a qualified contractor.
- RCG-1 Roof, Chimney, and Gutters - Chimneys:
No cricket flashing was installed above the north chimney, see photo(s.) This flashing helps divert water around the sides of the chimney so it does not get trapped on the uphill edge. Modern building standards recommended this flashing for any chimney wider than 30 inches. Recommend repair by a qualified roofing contractor.
- CSB-3 Common Spaces and Bedrooms - Stairs and Railings:
Stairs were missing a graspable handrail for safety, see photo(s.) Modern building standards recommend a round railing 1 and 1/4 inches - 2 inches in diameter. If the railing is not round it must have a finger groove that is 3/4 of an inch down from the tallest point of the rail. The graspable handrail should also be 1.5 inches from the wall. Recommend installation of a graspable handrail by a qualified contractor.
- CSB-4 Common Spaces and Bedrooms - Stairs and Railings:
Stairs wider than 44 inches only had a single handrail installed, see photo(s.) Modern building standards recommend two graspable (something you can put your hand around, see first photo) handrails for stairs wider than 44 inches. Recommend installation of an additional handrail by a qualified contractor.
- CSB-5 Common Spaces and Bedrooms - Stairs and Railings:
Modern building standards recommend that open front steps have a gap no larger than 4 inches for child safety. The staircase had gaps larger than this, see photo(s.) Recommend repair by a qualified contractor.
- CSB-6 Common Spaces and Bedrooms - Stairs and Railings:
Railing balusters were spaced too far apart, see photo(s.) Modern building standards recommend gaps between balusters be less than 4 inches. This is a safety improvement for children. Recommend repair by a qualified contractor.
- CSB-7 Common Spaces and Bedrooms - Interior Doors:
Door(s) did not latch and stay closed in the following location(s): Attic Access Door in Second Level South Bedroom. Recommend repair by a qualified contractor.
- CSB-8 Common Spaces and Bedrooms - Windows:
Most of the window(s) were missing screens. Recommend installation of screens as a DIY improvement.
- CSB-9 Common Spaces and Bedrooms - Windows:
The windows in the front living room and dining room were not opening; they appeared to just be painted shut. DIY repair.
- K-3 Kitchen - Appliances:
Lack of a proper air gap was noted at dishwasher drain line. In the event of a drain backup, this device prevents waste water from entering into dishwasher. Recommend installation of an air gap by a qualified plumber.
However, an air gap requires a hole through the counter top, which can be quite difficult to create, depending on the counter top material. This dishwasher drain was installed with a "high loop" which is an easier alternative to an air gap. In a high loop, the dishwasher drain house is attached as high as possible under the kitchen cabinets before flowing into the drain, so any backflowing water must overcome gravity to contaminate the dishwasher. High loops are effective, but not as effective as true air gaps. Many states consider a high loop sufficient, but Washington State does require an air gap.
- LUR-1 Laundry / Utility Room - Washer:
No drip pan was installed under the washing machine. When installed in living space, having a drip pan underneath the washing machine (ideally that drains to the exterior) is recommend to prevent water damage from leaks. Recommend installation of a proper drip pan by a qualified contractor.
- G1-1 Garage - Garage General:
The door between the garage and the living area had disabled self closing hinges. Having a self closing device (usually self closing hinges) are required on doors between the living space and the garage in some municipalities. Regardless of the local building codes, having a door that automatically closes is a good idea to preserve the firewall barrier between the garage and living space. Recommend enabling the self closing hinges. DIY repair.
- G1-3 Garage - Garage Door and Automatic Opener:
Photo eye sensors were too far off the ground. Recommend moving them to between 6 to 12 inches off the ground. DIY repair.
- A-4 Attic - Attic Insulation:
There was less attic insulation than current building standards recommend. Recommend addition of more insulation by a qualified contractor. This would be an energy efficiency upgrade for the house.
- SCSB-4 Structure and Crawl Space / Basement - Insulation:
Crawl space insulation was lower than modern building standards recommend. Recommend installation of additional insulation by a qualified contractor until it reaches a minimum R-25.
- E-2 Electrical - Electrical Panel:
Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) breakers were not observed on all the recommended circuits in the panel. Modern building standards require most living spaces be protected by AFCI breakers which are a fire prevention device. The current version of the National Electric Code states: "All 120-volt, single phase, 15- and 20-ampere branch circuits supplying outlets or devices installed in dwelling unit kitchens, family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, laundry areas, or similar rooms or areas shall be protected." Recommend having a qualified electrician install AFCI breakers where required as a safety improvement.
- E-3 Electrical - Electrical Panel:
No surge protection device was noted in the electrical panel, which started being recommended by modern building standards in 2020. Recommend installation of a surge protector by a qualified electrician.
- E-4 Electrical - Outlets, Switches, and Fixtures:
Non-tamper resistant outlets were observed in the house. Tamper resistant outlets require two prongs to be inserted into the outlet at the same time to energize them. This helps prevents shocks when items are put into outlets by themselves. This is primarily a safety improvement for children. Recommend upgrading all outlets to tamper resistant versions by a qualified electrician.
- E-12 Electrical - Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detector Systems:
Modern building standards require a heat detector in attached garages. This garage did not have one. Recommend adding a heat detector to the garage ceiling as a DIY safety improvement.
- E-13 Electrical - Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detector Systems:
Carbon monoxide detectors installed in the house were the type that are just plugged into a wall outlet. These are easily disabled as a child can simply unplug them. Recommend replacing the plug in detector(s) with battery operated versions as a DIY safety improvement.
- E-14 Electrical - Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detector Systems:
Smoke detectors were not installed in all the bedrooms. According to modern building standards, every bedroom should have a smoke detector installed inside the room. Many older houses only have smoke detectors in the hallways. Recommend adding a smoke detector to each bedroom. DIY project.
- FSD-2 Fuel Storage and Distribution - Gas Meter:
The safety of the main gas supply line could be improved with a seismic detecting gas valve (the most common ones are made by a company called Northridge.) These valves can be installed at the gas meter and will automatically shut off the gas flow in the event of an earthquake. Recommend installation of a seismic detecting gas valve by a qualified plumber.
- FSD-3 Fuel Storage and Distribution - Gas Meter:
The main gas valve at the gas meter is tight enough to require a wrench and cannot be operated by hand alone. Recommend keeping a properly sized wrench at the gas meter in case of an emergency. Wrenches for this purpose can be purchase for less than $10 (like this one.)
- FSD-4 Fuel Storage and Distribution - Fuel Plumbing:
No sediment trap was installed on the gas supply line for the furnace, see photo(s.) Sediment traps help filter out any minerals or rust in the gas supply before it enters the appliance, and can increase the lifespan of the gas burners. Recommend installation of a sediment trap by a qualified plumber.
- HCFV-3 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces, and Ventilation - Furnace:
The safety shut-off switch was taped down, see photo(s.) This switch is intended to make the furnace to shut off when the cover is removed, but when it is taped down, the furnace will continue to run without the cover in place. Recommend removing the tap. DIY repair.
- HCFV-11 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces, and Ventilation - Mechanical Ventilation Systems:
The primary bathroom and second level hall bathroom fan ducts were spliced into each other, see photo. This is not ideal as moisture can travel from one duct to the other instead of being exhausted from the house. Recommend installation of a dedicated port for each fan by a qualified contractor.
Areas to Monitor
- G-1 Grounds - Lot and Drainage:
Lot grading and drainage have a significant impact on the building, simply because of the direct and indirect damage that moisture can have on the foundation. It is very important that surface runoff water be adequately diverted away from the home. Areas of concern, if any, are noted in photos. Recommend monitoring the grounds, especially near the house, during the rainy season. If excess water or pooling is observed during the rainy season, further evaluation by a drainage specialist is recommended.
- G-4 Grounds - Lot and Drainage:
Downspouts were discharging into storm drains. These could be susceptible to restrictions, clogs or backups. Monitor during wet weather and improve or repair as needed. It is important to ensure roof runoff is successfully carried away from the building.
- G-9 Grounds - Miscellaneous:
Rodent traps were observed on the grounds, but no rodent activity was noted. Rodents are common in Western Washington, and in my opinion, having rodent traps on the property is a good idea as a preventative measure. Recommend monitoring for future rodent activity.
- G1-5 Garage - Garage Floor:
Minor hairline shrinkage cracks in slab concrete floors are normal for properties of any age. They should, however, be monitored for expansion, which could be an indication of something more significant.
- SCSB-3 Structure and Crawl Space / Basement - Foundation:
Typical small cracks were noted in the foundation. The purpose of the foundation is to connect the weight of the building to well-compacted soils below the house so that the house does not move or settle. Concrete cracking can indicate poorly compacted soils below the house which could require a repair, but small cracks such as these can also be a sign of routine concrete shrinkage. It is not possible to determine or verify the cause of these cracks during a visual inspection. The easiest way to prevent on-going settlement in buildings is by controlling roof runoff and site drainage to promote dry soils around the foundation; wet soils do not bear weight well. This will also help to prevent crawl space moisture problems. In my experience, small cracks like these are common in concrete foundations of any age. I would monitor these cracks. If continued movement is noted, I would seek additional inspection by a structural engineer or qualified contractor to determine an accurate scope and urgency for repair to ensure a reliable connection between the foundation and well-compacted, weight-bearing soils.
Future Projects
- CSB-2 Common Spaces and Bedrooms - Floors:
Squeaky floors were observed. This is most commonly caused by a loose subfloor, typical from nails working loose over time. It is a nuisance concern, not a significant defect. Fixing this is easy if the flooring is being replaced just by screwing down the subfloor. There are even some products designed to go through the existing flooring to reattach the subfloor (like this) though I do not have experience with them, and do not know if they are effective.
- E-1 Electrical - Branch Wiring:
Unless the wiring in the building has been fully updated, this building likely has wiring that predates the late 1980s. Branch circuit wiring installed in buildings built prior to the late 1980s is typically rated for a maximum temperature of only 60 degrees Celsius. This includes non-metallic sheathed (Romex) wiring and fabric covered wiring. Knob and tube wiring, typically installed in homes built prior to 1950, may be rated for even lower maximum temperatures. Newer electric fixtures including lighting and fans typically require wiring rated for 90 degrees Celsius. Connecting newer fixtures to older, 60-degree-rated wiring is a potential fire hazard. Repairs for such conditions may involve replacing the last few feet of wiring to newer fixtures with new 90-degree-rated wire, and installing a junction box to join the old and new wiring. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if any such incompatible components are installed. Based on the age of this building, be aware that such components may be present.
Due Diligence
- GC-1 General Comments - Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations:
Please note that mold, mold testing, and indoor air quality are beyond the scope of this inspection. That being said, any suspected mold or conducive conditions for mold that I observed will be reported on. If mold or indoor air quality is a particular concern, I recommend additional evaluation and further inspections by a specialist.
- GC-2 General Comments - Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations:
Radon level testing is not included as part of this inspection. While radon is a concern in many areas of the United States, according to the EPA, the Seattle area has low risk for radon levels (see EPA heat map of radon risk.) If radon levels are of specific concern, I recommend contacting a company that provides this service. Note that it takes 48+ hours to accurately measure radon levels.
- GC-4 General Comments - Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations:
In 1978, federal laws were passed to prohibit use of lead and asbestos in building materials. Manufacturers of building materials were allowed to sell existing stocks of materials that were manufactured with lead and asbestos, so even buildings constructed as late as the mid-1980's could possibly contain lead or asbestos. Identification and testing for lead and asbestos and other environmental testing is beyond the scope of this home inspection. Visible materials likely to have asbestos or lead paint contamination (if any) are documented in this report, but more could be hidden behind walls, under flooring, etc. Asbestos materials are considered safe by the EPA if they are encapsulated, which usually means painted over, under other flooring, etc. When doing any remodeling or repairs, it's possible to find asbestos that was not visible during the inspection. If client has any concerns regarding asbestos materials, an asbestos testing lab should be consulted for further review to ensure safety.
- G-7 Grounds - Trees and Vegetation:
I recommend having an arborist evaluate the large trees on the property and prune or remove as recommended. Whenever large trees are located near a house, a higher level of maintenance should be expected to keep trees safe and healthy to reduce the risks of damage to the home and to reduce rodent entry points. With larger trees, pruning is recommended to reduce strain on these trees during high winds. If an arborist has not been out in the last few years, I recommend a new consultation.
- CSB-1 Common Spaces and Bedrooms - Door Bell:
Smart/video doorbells often require action from the seller to transfer ownership.
- K-2 Kitchen - Appliances:
Dishwasher was not tested at time of inspection as it was full of the seller's dishes. Recommend disclosing whether it is working or not.
- G1-2 Garage - Garage Door and Automatic Opener:
The garage door was equipped with an external keypad. Recommend disclosing the code to buyer.
- P-1 Plumbing - Water Meter:
I could not find a water meter. This house seems to be on a public water system, which should have a metering device. Recommend disclosing the location of the water meter.
- P-5 Plumbing - Waste Pipe and Discharge Plumbing:
Based on visible components, this property appeared to have a private on-site septic system. These are specialty systems and are excluded from this inspection. Comments in this report related to this system are made as a courtesy only and are not meant to be a substitute for a full evaluation by a qualified specialist. Generally, septic tanks should be pumped and inspected every 3 years. Depending on the type of system and municipal regulations, inspection and maintenance may be required more frequently, often annually. I recommend:
- Disclosing any information about this system's maintenance and repair history
- Provide any documentation available for this system
- Provide inspection and maintenance requirements for this system
- Hire a qualified specialist to evaluate, perform maintenance and make repairs as needed
- P-7 Plumbing - Water Heater:
Most manufacturers embed a manufacture date in their serial numbers, but this manufacturer did not. Because of this, I could not verify the age of the water heater. That being said, it appeared new. Recommend disclosing the age of the water heater.
- P-8 Plumbing - Irrigation:
An exterior irrigation system was noted for this home. Sprinkler and irrigation systems are beyond the scope of this inspection. My own experience with irrigation systems is that they require annual attention / repair / servicing after every winter. Disclose any information about how to winterize this system as this should be done prior to cold weather. When testing the system, be sure sprinkler heads are adjusted so the system is not watering the side of the house. Hire a specialist to further evaluate this system as desired.
- P-9 Plumbing - Sump Pumps and Drains:
A sump pump system was noted for this building. Recommend disclosing information about this pump system; is it needed to keep the building dry? Some sump pumps are installed as a preventative measure, other systems are critical for keeping a building dry. The importance of this system is impossible to determine during a one-time inspection. If it is determined that the pump is critical to maintain a dry basement or crawl space, I recommend installing back up power systems so the pump will work in a power outage, have a back-up pump and an alarm to alert the occupants in case of a pump failure.
- E-7 Electrical - GFCI Outlets:
Outlets without an obvious reset are not tested for GFCI protection as I may not be able to re-engergize them after they turn off. Recommend testing the outlets in the location(s) listed below for GFCI protection using an outlet tester (like this one.) If the outlet(s) are not GFCI protected, repair by a qualified electrician is recommended.
For this house, outlets were not tested for GFCI protection in the following location(s): Exterior (often reset in the garage), Garage (often reset in the garage) and Crawl Space
Note: GFCI protection has become more extensive over time. The guidelines for GFCI coverage based on the year of construction is in the image below. If the house was built prior to any of these dates, there is a decent chance that coverage is not what it should be, and I may not have been able to accurately test for it.
- E-17 Electrical - Generator Equipment:
This home had a transfer switch for a generator for back-up electric power supply. Generator systems are beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend disclosing information regarding operation and maintenance of this system. Generators need to be run and serviced regularly to ensure reliable operation
- HCFV-7 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces, and Ventilation - Cooling Systems and Heat Pumps:
The air conditioning cooling system and condensate control system could not be tested during inspection. Outdoor temperatures should exceed 65 degrees F for at least 24-hours or the air conditioning equipment can be damaged by testing. Recommend disclosing whether the cooling is working.
- HCFV-8 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces, and Ventilation - Thermostat:
Smart thermostats often require action from the seller to transfer ownership.
Recommended Maintenance
- G-2 Grounds - Lot and Drainage:
Keep 6 to 8 inches of exposed concrete foundation between the siding and the soil below. This will help protect against moisture or pest intrusion into the siding and structure.
- G-3 Grounds - Lot and Drainage:
Make sure to keep all downspouts discharging 5+ feet away from the foundation. Not doing so can cause moisture problems in the structure, or even foundation settling.
- G-5 Grounds - Trees and Vegetation:
When landscaping, keep plants, even at full growth, at least a foot (preferably 18 inches) from house siding and windows. Keep trees away from the foundation and roof. Plants in contact or proximity to home can provide pathways for wood destroying insects, as well as cause rubbing damage to siding, screens, and roofs.
- EDPB-1 Exteriors, Decks, Porches, and Balconies - Siding and Trim:
Maintain all exterior finishes, caulking, and other sealants at any dissimilar material abutments and all penetrations to the walls and roof. This inexpensive task aids in the prevention of moisture intrusion and saves on expensive repairs.
- RCG-2 Roof, Chimney, and Gutters - Gutters and Downspouts:
Keep gutters and drains cleared of organic debris to prevent downspouts from being clogged, which will cause gutters to overflow. Overflow at gutters can lead to water pooling at the foundation, which can lead to rot, pests, and even structural failure eventually.
- B-2 Bathrooms - Bathtubs / Showers:
Ongoing maintenance of the caulk and grout around any shower or tub is important to prevent leaking. If the caulk begins to crack or the grout begins to wear down and get thin, leaks can occur.
- K-1 Kitchen - Ventilation Method:
Kitchen vent filters need regular cleaning to prevent grease buildup which is a potential fire hazard. Most metal filters can be put in the dishwasher for easy cleaning.
- LUR-2 Laundry / Utility Room - Dryer:
Recommend cleaning dryer vent at least annually as lint buildup can be a fire hazard. This is usually a DIY maintenance item, but depending on the length of the dryer vent, special tools may be required. Please note that I cannot verify how clean/dirty the vent is at the time of the inspection, so it might be due for a cleaning.
- A-2 Attic - Attic Access:
I recommend that owner looks around the attic at least twice a year just to become familiar with what's up there, and see potential issues early. Many attic issues are a result from excess water (either roof leaks or excess humidity coming from living space) which can quickly lead to rot, mold, and pest problems. The majority of these issues can be minimized or prevented if they are caught early on.
- SCSB-2 Structure and Crawl Space / Basement - Crawl Space Access:
I recommend that the owner looks around the crawlspace at least twice a year just to become familiar with what's down there, and see potential issues early. Many crawlspace issues are a result from excess water (foundation leaks, plumbing leaks, drainage issues, etc) which can quickly lead to rot, mold, pest problems, and even foundation failure. The majority of these issues can be minimized or prevented if they are caught early on.
- P-6 Plumbing - Water Heater:
This house had hot water provided by a tankless hot water heater. Annual flushing is typically recommended for these types of water heaters to ensure safe and reliable performance. I recommend having this water heater professionally serviced annually as a part of routine scheduled maintenance. With proper maintenance, the life expectancy of a tankless water heater is 20 years.
- P-10 Plumbing - Sump Pumps and Drains:
Sump pumps require annual DIY maintenance (cleaning) at a minimum. I also recommend checking them regularly to make sure they are operating. The sump pit will almost always have water in it, and the pump will not turn on until the water reaches a certain level. There is a float that controls when the pump should kick on, see photo. The operation of the pump can be checked by lifting up the float; when the float is lifted, the pump should turn on. With proper maintenance, a sump pump's life expectancy is approximately 10 years, though this can vary widely depending on how often it is actually running.
- E-11 Electrical - Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detector Systems:
Smoke detectors are reliable for approximately 10 years before needing replacement. Carbon monoxide detectors are reliable for approximately 6 years before needing replacement. Batteries (if applicable) should be replaced in both every six months to ensure reliable performance.
- HCFV-1 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces, and Ventilation - Furnace:
Furnaces should be serviced annually to verify safe and efficient operation. With proper maintenance, the life expectancy of a furnace is 20 years.
- HCFV-4 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces, and Ventilation - Air Filters:
The air filter(s) should be inspected at least monthly and cleaned or replaced as required, typically every 3 months. Dirty filters are the most common cause of inadequate heating or cooling performance. Note the size and airflow direction before removing the already installed filter. There are two types of filters commonly used, either of which can be purchased at any Home Depot type store:
- Washable filters, (constructed of aluminum mesh, foam, or reinforced fibers) these may be cleaned by soaking in mild detergent and rising with water.
- Fiberglass or fabric disposable filters.
- HCFV-6 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces, and Ventilation - Cooling Systems and Heat Pumps:
Recommend that HVAC professional seasonally check the air conditioning unit, and ensure the unit is level. This can be accomplished at the same time as the annual furnace inspection. With proper maintenance, the life expectancy of an air conditioning unit is 20 years.
- HCFV-9 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces, and Ventilation - Gas Fireplaces:
Dust buildup under a gas fireplace can be a potential fire hazard. Recommend regular cleaning of the space below the fireplace to prevent the buildup of dust and dirt.
Homeowner Info
- GC-3 General Comments - Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations:
This is a generic life expectancy chart for many different materials in a house. Please note that many of these products were not present in the inspected house, however this list contains a lot of good information for homeowners to keep on general home maintenance.
- A-1 Attic - Attic Access:
These photos show the location of the attic access hatches.
- SCSB-1 Structure and Crawl Space / Basement - Crawl Space Access:
This is a photo of the crawl space access point.
- P-2 Plumbing - Street Supply:
This photo shows the location of the main water shut-off valve.
- E-5 Electrical - Outlets, Switches, and Fixtures:
Half hot outlets were observed. These are outlets where one of the two plugs at the receptacle is controlled by a switch, and the other one is always on.
- E-6 Electrical - GFCI Outlets:
During an inspection I test all ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) devices that are readily accessible. GFCIs are the electric receptacles with test and reset buttons that you commonly see around water; modern building standards require them in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, exterior outlets, or within 6 feet of a water source (like by a wet bar sink.) GFCIs are important safety devices that limit the duration of electrical shocks and have saved lives.
One GFCI outlet will protect all the outlets installed downstream from it, which can be confusing. I recommend being aware of where reset buttons are located in the house as GFCIs can trip and disable a circuit which can not be re-energized without resetting the button. I avoid testing if a receptacle or circuit is GFCI protected if it is not clear where the reset button is located. This is because reset buttons can be concealed behind stored items, so such a test risks disabling a circuit in the home.
The reset location of any GFCI outlets are I could test are listed below in the comments below.
- E-8 Electrical - GFCI Outlets:
GFCI protected outlets in the bathrooms reset in their respective bathrooms.
- E-9 Electrical - GFCI Outlets:
GFCI protected outlets in the laundry room reset in the laundry room.
- E-10 Electrical - GFCI Outlets:
GFCI protected outlets in the kitchen reset in the kitchen.
- FSD-1 Fuel Storage and Distribution - Gas Meter:
This photo shows the gas service entrance, meter, and main gas shut-off valve (circled.) The second photo is a close-up of the main gas shut-off valve. Rotating the valve to line up the holes will shut off gas flow to the house.
- FSD-5 Fuel Storage and Distribution - Shut-Off Valve Locations:
Gas valves all operate with a handle that moves 1/4 turn to open/close them. If the handle is parallel to the pipe, the valve is open. If the handle is perpendicular to the pipe, the valve is closed.
- FSD-6 Fuel Storage and Distribution - Shut-Off Valve Locations:
This photo shows the gas shut-off valve for the water heater.
- FSD-7 Fuel Storage and Distribution - Shut-Off Valve Locations:
This photo shows the gas shut-off valve for the furnace.
- FSD-8 Fuel Storage and Distribution - Shut-Off Valve Locations:
This photo shows the gas shut-off valve for the gas fireplace(s.)
- FSD-10 Fuel Storage and Distribution - Shut-Off Valve Locations:
This photo shows the gas shut-off valve for the gas oven/cooktop.
- HCFV-5 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces, and Ventilation - Air Filters:
This photo shows the location of the furnace air filter.
- HCFV-10 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces, and Ventilation - Gas Fireplaces:
The back living room fireplace controlled with switch at bottom right. The front living room fireplace controlled with switch at bottom left. See photos.
It looked like both could have a remote control too, but I could not find remotes.
The Full Report
Grounds
Grounds Overview
General Grounds Photos
Lot and Drainage
Driveways / Walkways / Flatwork
Trees and Vegetation
Exterior Stairs
Miscellaneous
Exteriors, Decks, Porches, and Balconies
Exterior Overview
Siding and Trim
Exterior Vent and Exhaust Terminations
Exterior Doors
Exterior Windows Frames
Decks, Balconies, and Porches
Roof, Chimney, and Gutters
Roof System Overview
Method of Roof Inspection
General Roof Photos
Roof Materials
Chimneys
Skylights
Gutters and Downspouts
Common Spaces and Bedrooms
General Interior Photos
Door Bell
Floors
Walls and Ceilings
Stairs and Railings
Interior Doors
Windows
Bathrooms
Bathroom Overview
General Bathroom Photos
Sinks and Cabinets
Toilets
Bathtubs / Showers
Bathroom Ventilation
Kitchen
Kitchen Overview
General Kitchen Photos
Sinks and Faucets
Cabinets and Countertops
Ventilation Method
Appliances
Laundry / Utility Room
Laundry / Utility Room Overview
General Laundry / Utility Room Photos
Washer
Dryer
Ventilation
Cabinets and/or Sinks
Garage
Garage Overview
General Garage Photos
Garage General
Garage Door and Automatic Opener
Garage Floor
Attic
Attic Overview
Attic Access
General Attic Photos
Roof Framing and Sheathing
Attic Insulation
Attic and Roof Cavity Ventilation
Miscellaneous
Structure and Crawl Space / Basement
Structure and Crawl Space Overview
Crawl Space Access
General Crawl Space and/or Unfinished Basement Photos
Foundation
Posts, Beams, and Footings
Vapor Barrier
Crawl Space Ventilation
Insulation
Moisture Conditions
Plumbing
Plumbing Overview
Water Meter
Street Supply
Water Pressure
Interior Distribution Pipes
Waste Pipe and Discharge Plumbing
Water Heater
Water Temperature
Hose Spigots
Irrigation
Sump Pumps and Drains
Electrical
Electrical Overview
Electric Service
Electrical Grounding System
Electrical Bonding System
Branch Wiring
Electrical Panel
Outlets, Switches, and Fixtures
GFCI Outlets
Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detector Systems
Low Voltage Wiring
Generator Equipment
Appliance Disconnects
General Comments
Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations
Type of Building : Detached, Single Family Home, Two Level
Approximate Year of Original Construction: 1984
Approximate Total Square Footage: 2750
Number of Bedrooms: 4
Number of Bathrooms: 2.5
Attending the Inspection: Owner/Client
Occupancy: Occupied
Weather during the inspection: Raining, Cloudy
Approximate Temperature (Fahrenheit): 55
Ground/Soil surface conditions: Wet
For the Purposes of This Report, the House Faces: East
The approximate square footage listed in the report is listed as a courtesy and is based off of public records and disclosure. An evaluation of square footage of the buildings and property lines is beyond the scope of this inspection.
The number of bedrooms identified is pulled from the MLS listing or public records. Any observed non-conforming bedrooms will be identified in this report. The simple requirements for a room to be considered a legal bedroom include:
- A heat source.
- An emergency escape and rescue opening (often referred to as fire egress opening.)
- At least 7 foot tall ceilings for at least half the room.
- Lighting.
- At least two outlets.
Note: A closet is not required for a room to be considered a bedroom by modern building standards. This is a common misconception. NWMLS may have a different definition of what is considered a bedroom.
During this inspection, a thermal imaging camera was used to check walls and ceilings for thermal anomalies and also to check specific appliances for verification of proper function. All thermal images will be immediately followed by a normal picture of the exact same frame. Thermal imaging cameras use the infrared light spectrum to build a picture of the house. Experienced thermogrophers look for clues in these thermal images that could lead us to otherwise concealed water leaks or missing air or thermal barriers. In older homes, incomplete air and thermal barriers are so common, we will only report on items that look significantly deficient and are worthy of correction. This service is included with our home inspection; it is limited and is not a complete thermal mapping of the house. The use of a thermal camera is well beyond the minimum standards for a home inspection, but we offer this service because we know it is valuable and can help us help our clients by improving our inspection services. Relevant thermal images will be included in this report.
This home was occupied at the time of the inspection. Inspections of occupied homes presents some challenges as occupant belongings can obstruct visual inspections and access to parts of the building. I do my best during the inspection to work around belongings to discover as much as possible about the house without moving or damaging personal property, however, the presence of personal items does limit the inspection.
Please note that mold, mold testing, and indoor air quality are beyond the scope of this inspection. That being said, any suspected mold or conducive conditions for mold that I observed will be reported on. If mold or indoor air quality is a particular concern, I recommend additional evaluation and further inspections by a specialist.
Radon level testing is not included as part of this inspection. While radon is a concern in many areas of the United States, according to the EPA, the Seattle area has low risk for radon levels (see EPA heat map of radon risk.) If radon levels are of specific concern, I recommend contacting a company that provides this service. Note that it takes 48+ hours to accurately measure radon levels.
In 1978, federal laws were passed to prohibit use of lead and asbestos in building materials. Manufacturers of building materials were allowed to sell existing stocks of materials that were manufactured with lead and asbestos, so even buildings constructed as late as the mid-1980's could possibly contain lead or asbestos. Identification and testing for lead and asbestos and other environmental testing is beyond the scope of this home inspection. Visible materials likely to have asbestos or lead paint contamination (if any) are documented in this report, but more could be hidden behind walls, under flooring, etc. Asbestos materials are considered safe by the EPA if they are encapsulated, which usually means painted over, under other flooring, etc. When doing any remodeling or repairs, it's possible to find asbestos that was not visible during the inspection. If client has any concerns regarding asbestos materials, an asbestos testing lab should be consulted for further review to ensure safety.
This is a generic life expectancy chart for many different materials in a house. Please note that many of these products were not present in the inspected house, however this list contains a lot of good information for homeowners to keep on general home maintenance.
Grounds
Grounds Overview
This section is about the lot surrounding the property. It describes adjacent entryway walkways, patios, driveways, vegetation, grading, surface drainage, and retaining walls that are likely to adversely affect the building. For multi-unit housing, like condos or townhouses, only the grounds in the vicinity of the inspected unit were examined.
Lot and Drainage
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Site Description: Relatively Level
Downspout Discharge: Below Grade
Siding Clearance to Grade: Standard
While performance of lot drainage and water handling systems may appear serviceable at the time of inspection, predicting drainage performance as conditions constantly change is impossible. Furthermore, items such as leakage in downspout/gutter systems are very difficult to detect during dry weather. Inspection of foundation performance and water handling systems, therefore, is limited to visible conditions and evidence of past problems.
Lot grading and drainage have a significant impact on the building, simply because of the direct and indirect damage that moisture can have on the foundation. It is very important that surface runoff water be adequately diverted away from the home. Areas of concern, if any, are noted in photos. Recommend monitoring the grounds, especially near the house, during the rainy season. If excess water or pooling is observed during the rainy season, further evaluation by a drainage specialist is recommended.
Downspouts were discharging into storm drains. These could be susceptible to restrictions, clogs or backups. Monitor during wet weather and improve or repair as needed. It is important to ensure roof runoff is successfully carried away from the building.
Keep 6 to 8 inches of exposed concrete foundation between the siding and the soil below. This will help protect against moisture or pest intrusion into the siding and structure.
Make sure to keep all downspouts discharging 5+ feet away from the foundation. Not doing so can cause moisture problems in the structure, or even foundation settling.
Driveways / Walkways / Flatwork
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Driveway: Concrete
Walkways: Concrete, Gravel
Trees and Vegetation
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Some branches were touching the roof, see photo(s.) When these branches move during wind, they can damage the roofing material. Also these branches provide a path onto the roof and into the attic space for rodents. Recommend evaluation and trimming of branches by a qualified contractor.
Vegetation was touching--or was in close proximity--to the siding, see photo(s.) This can trap moisture against the siding which is a conducive condition for rot, or allow a pathway onto the roof/into the attic for rodents. Recommend pruning all vegetation back to give at least 12 inches of clearance to the siding. DIY repair.
I recommend having an arborist evaluate the large trees on the property and prune or remove as recommended. Whenever large trees are located near a house, a higher level of maintenance should be expected to keep trees safe and healthy to reduce the risks of damage to the home and to reduce rodent entry points. With larger trees, pruning is recommended to reduce strain on these trees during high winds. If an arborist has not been out in the last few years, I recommend a new consultation.
When landscaping, keep plants, even at full growth, at least a foot (preferably 18 inches) from house siding and windows. Keep trees away from the foundation and roof. Plants in contact or proximity to home can provide pathways for wood destroying insects, as well as cause rubbing damage to siding, screens, and roofs.
Exterior Stairs
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Exteriors, Decks, Porches, and Balconies
Exterior Overview
This section describes the exterior of the structure. It includes the exterior wall coverings, flashing, trim, exterior doors, steps, porches and their associated railings, attached decks, balconies, eaves, soffits, and fascias. The exterior envelope of a house is one of the most important and complicate systems in the structure. Its primary function is to prevent water from entering the house. For multi-unit housing, like condos or townhouses, only the exterior of the inspected unit was examined.
Siding and Trim
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Siding Material: Wood, Brick
Trim Material: Wood
Inadequate clearances were noted between the roof and the siding, see photo(s.) A 2 inch air gap is recommended here to keep the siding off the roof and prevent deterioration of the siding. This installation should be accompanied by step flashings that adequately protect the wall and roof juncture from leaks. Recommend evaluation and repair by a qualified contractor.
Maintain all exterior finishes, caulking, and other sealants at any dissimilar material abutments and all penetrations to the walls and roof. This inexpensive task aids in the prevention of moisture intrusion and saves on expensive repairs.
Exterior Vent and Exhaust Terminations
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Exterior Doors
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Door Types: Solid Core, French Doors, Glass Panel
Daylight was visible through exterior door(s), see photo(s.) Recommend adding weather striping to increase energy efficiency. DIY project.
Exterior Windows Frames
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Materials: Wood
Decks, Balconies, and Porches
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Deck Structure: Not visible
Deck Ledger Board: Not visible
Decking Material: Functional, Inadequate drainage gap
Stairs: Standard
Railing / Guardrail: Standard
Please note that the deck framing inspection was limited. I could not see framing and deck structural components in many places because the underside of the deck was not accessible.
Please note that the deck ledger board (how the deck attaches to the house) inspection was limited. I could not see the full ledger board because the underside of the deck was not accessible.
The decking for the wood deck had been installed too close together in places. When decking boards are installed too close together it can trap water and lead to premature deterioration of the decking. Decking boards should have adequate spacing (3/8th inch is standard) to ensure proper drainage and to eliminate standing water that could make the deck slippery or cause premature wood decay. Recommend repair by a qualified contractor.
Roof, Chimney, and Gutters
Roof System Overview
The roof is one of the major systems in a house as it is one of the primary ways that water is kept away from the structure. Especially in a climate like the Pacific Northwest, the roof condition of any structure is critical. The roofing material, flashing, and any penetrations will be inspected and any deficiencies will be documented here. For multi-unit housing, like condos or townhouses, only the roof above the inspected unit was examined.
Note: Some roofs are not safe to walk on due to slope, access, materials, or weather conditions. In those cases, Washington State's standards of practice require inspectors to observe the roof as best they can from vantage points on the ground.
Method of Roof Inspection
Viewed at Top of Ladder, Drone
Limitations: Not Safe to Walk: Concrete Tile
A drone was used to inspect the roof. The roof was not mounted due to the height and pitch making mounting of the roof dangerous. Using a drone does not provide as complete of an inspection as I could not touch the shingles or see things as clearly, but it is much better than the alternative of using binoculars from the ground. If a more thorough roof inspection is desired, I recommend contacting a roofing contractor who will have the proper safety equipment to mount a roof like this one.
I did not walk on the concrete tile roof. Walking on concrete tiles risks damaging the tiles as they are brittle and subject to physical damage.
Roof Materials
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Roof Covering Materials: Concrete Tiles
Approximate Age of Roof Covering: Unknown
Flashings: Standard
Overlay Roof (Multiple Layers of Roofing): No
Concrete tile roofs have a long life expectancy of 100+ years. It is hard to determine the age of this type of system, but this one appeared to be in good shape overall. It looked to be professionally installed, and no cracked or loose tiles were observed. I suspect it was about 10 years old. The sheathing in the attic was OBS on top of skip sheathing; skip sheathing is exclusively used for shake roofs. I think this house originally had a shake roof, which usually last 25 to 30 years. That would mean the original roof would likely have been replaced sometime around 2010.
Roof flashings are used to keep a roofing system water proof where the roofing material starts, stops, changes direction or is penetrated. During inspection, I look for standard flashing techniques that could be considered normal or standard in our region. Damaged, incomplete or non-standard flashings can be a sign of an older or less reliable roofing system and may require repair. Any non-standard flashings noted during inspection will be reported on below if found.
Chimneys
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Chimney Material: Masonry
Chimney Flue Liners: Present
No cricket flashing was installed above the north chimney, see photo(s.) This flashing helps divert water around the sides of the chimney so it does not get trapped on the uphill edge. Modern building standards recommended this flashing for any chimney wider than 30 inches. Recommend repair by a qualified roofing contractor.
Skylights
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Gutters and Downspouts
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Keep gutters and drains cleared of organic debris to prevent downspouts from being clogged, which will cause gutters to overflow. Overflow at gutters can lead to water pooling at the foundation, which can lead to rot, pests, and even structural failure eventually.
Common Spaces and Bedrooms
Door Bell
Door Bell: Operated normally, Ring brand video doorbell
Smart/video doorbells often require action from the seller to transfer ownership.
Floors
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Floor Slope: No significant slope observed
Some flooring was not accessible/visible due to stored personal items.
Squeaky floors were observed. This is most commonly caused by a loose subfloor, typical from nails working loose over time. It is a nuisance concern, not a significant defect. Fixing this is easy if the flooring is being replaced just by screwing down the subfloor. There are even some products designed to go through the existing flooring to reattach the subfloor (like this) though I do not have experience with them, and do not know if they are effective.
Walls and Ceilings
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Some areas were not accessible/visible due to stored personal items.
Stairs and Railings
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Stairs were missing a graspable handrail for safety, see photo(s.) Modern building standards recommend a round railing 1 and 1/4 inches - 2 inches in diameter. If the railing is not round it must have a finger groove that is 3/4 of an inch down from the tallest point of the rail. The graspable handrail should also be 1.5 inches from the wall. Recommend installation of a graspable handrail by a qualified contractor.
Stairs wider than 44 inches only had a single handrail installed, see photo(s.) Modern building standards recommend two graspable (something you can put your hand around, see first photo) handrails for stairs wider than 44 inches. Recommend installation of an additional handrail by a qualified contractor.
Modern building standards recommend that open front steps have a gap no larger than 4 inches for child safety. The staircase had gaps larger than this, see photo(s.) Recommend repair by a qualified contractor.
Interior Doors
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Door(s) did not latch and stay closed in the following location(s): Attic Access Door in Second Level South Bedroom. Recommend repair by a qualified contractor.
Windows
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Window Glazing: Double Pane
Interior Window Frame: Wood
Window Styles: Sliding, Casement
Any installed window coverings (blinds/drapes) were not systematically tested. Their operation is outside of the scope of a home inspection.
Most of the window(s) were missing screens. Recommend installation of screens as a DIY improvement.
The windows in the front living room and dining room were not opening; they appeared to just be painted shut. DIY repair.
Bathrooms
Bathroom Overview
During the inspection I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for concealed leaks and sounded for loose tile and finishes in shower and tub enclosures. I do not test bathtub overflow drains as this risks damaging finishes around the tub. Monitor tubs while filling and avoid pushing water into the overflow. Even well-installed overflow drains can leak as the gaskets that seal the overflow will dry out over time and may no longer provide a watertight seal. Monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents less stress on plumbing than daily use. Please note that vacant homes present additional risk as it can be difficult to distinguish how the plumbing system will respond to daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
Sinks and Cabinets
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Personal property stored in cabinets limited access/visibility for inspection.
Toilets
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Toilet(s) in the following location(s) was/were loosely mounted to the floor: First Level Bathroom and Primary Bathroom. This can allow the toilet to rock and slide when used, which damages the wax ring seal and can allow water to seep into the floor cavity. When using a moisture meter, no evidence of a leak was observed, but this should be repaired as a proactive measure. Recommend repair by a qualified plumber.
Note: There are non-wax rings (rubber or foam) that are less likely leak if a toilet is loosely mounted. However, wax rings are the most commonly used type of seal, and without removing the toilet, it is impossible to know which type of seal was used.
Bathtubs / Showers
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
The primary bathroom bathtub was slow to drain. Recommend cleaning as a DIY repair. If that is not successful, further repair by a qualified plumber may be needed.
Ongoing maintenance of the caulk and grout around any shower or tub is important to prevent leaking. If the caulk begins to crack or the grout begins to wear down and get thin, leaks can occur.
Bathroom Ventilation
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Kitchen
Kitchen Overview
The kitchen is used for food preparation and often for entertainment. Kitchens typically include a stove, dishwasher, sink and other appliances. Any safety concerns, water leaks, or inoperable appliances will be reported. Testing the effectiveness of appliances is not part of this inspection.
Sinks and Faucets
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Cabinets and Countertops
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Stored personal property limited access/visibility for inspection.
Ventilation Method
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Vent Type: Exterior Vented
Kitchen vent filters need regular cleaning to prevent grease buildup which is a potential fire hazard. Most metal filters can be put in the dishwasher for easy cleaning.
Appliances
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Refrigerator: Operated
Dishwasher: Not operated - Seller Dishes
Dishwasher Air Gap: Just a high loop
Range / Oven / Cook-tops: Gas Cooktop, Electric Oven
Garbage Diposal: Operated
Microwave: Operated
All the installed kitchen appliances were tested during inspection today (exceptions, if any, are noted in this report.) The typical design life of appliances can range from 4-20 years. Some appliances such as an older electric range are simple and tend to last longer than more complex appliances such as dishwashers and refrigerators or modern appliances with circuit boards. Also, usage of appliances varies widely from house to house depending on the occupant's habits. Because of all these factors, it is impossible to predict the useful remaining life of an appliance. Appliances can also fail without any warning. Any operational defects noted will be listed in this report; however, just because an appliance turns on and runs, it does not necessarily mean is it working effectively. I was inspecting for operation of the appliances, not their effectiveness.
There are companies that offer warranties for appliances such as American Home Shield. While I do not endorse or recommend any specific warranty, I know that some home owners have been very happy with this insurance.
Microwave leak and/or efficiency testing is beyond the scope of this inspection.
There was an abandoned Johnson Tee style air gap on the exterior of the house.
Lack of a proper air gap was noted at dishwasher drain line. In the event of a drain backup, this device prevents waste water from entering into dishwasher. Recommend installation of an air gap by a qualified plumber.
However, an air gap requires a hole through the counter top, which can be quite difficult to create, depending on the counter top material. This dishwasher drain was installed with a "high loop" which is an easier alternative to an air gap. In a high loop, the dishwasher drain house is attached as high as possible under the kitchen cabinets before flowing into the drain, so any backflowing water must overcome gravity to contaminate the dishwasher. High loops are effective, but not as effective as true air gaps. Many states consider a high loop sufficient, but Washington State does require an air gap.
Dishwasher was not tested at time of inspection as it was full of the seller's dishes. Recommend disclosing whether it is working or not.
Laundry / Utility Room
Laundry / Utility Room Overview
This section discusses the laundry room in the house. Items inspected include visible plumbing, visible venting, and operation of any installed appliances. Testing the effectiveness of appliances is not practical during an inspection, so I was only testing to see if they would turn on and operate.
General Laundry / Utility Room Photos
Washer
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
No drip pan was installed under the washing machine. When installed in living space, having a drip pan underneath the washing machine (ideally that drains to the exterior) is recommend to prevent water damage from leaks. Recommend installation of a proper drip pan by a qualified contractor.
Dryer
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Power Source: Electric
Vent Type: Vented
Recommend cleaning dryer vent at least annually as lint buildup can be a fire hazard. This is usually a DIY maintenance item, but depending on the length of the dryer vent, special tools may be required. Please note that I cannot verify how clean/dirty the vent is at the time of the inspection, so it might be due for a cleaning.
Ventilation
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Ventilation Method: Exhaust Fan
Cabinets and/or Sinks
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Personal property stored in cabinets limited access/visibility for inspection.
Garage
Garage Overview
This section is about the garage in the house. Inspected items include safety features on garage doors and fire barriers between the living spaces of the house and the garage.
Garage General
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Personal property stored in garage limited access and visibility of all floor, wall, and ceiling surfaces.
The door between the garage and the living area had disabled self closing hinges. Having a self closing device (usually self closing hinges) are required on doors between the living space and the garage in some municipalities. Regardless of the local building codes, having a door that automatically closes is a good idea to preserve the firewall barrier between the garage and living space. Recommend enabling the self closing hinges. DIY repair.
Garage Door and Automatic Opener
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Garage Door Type: Wood
Spring Type: Torsion Springs
Automatic Garage Opener Type: Screw Drive Opener
Photo Eye Sensors (only applicable to garage doors with openers): Present and functioning, Too far off ground
Auto-Reverse Sensor (only applicable to garage doors with openers): Not functioning
The photo eye sensors are sensors that project an infrared beam across the bottom of the garage door. If something breaks the beam while the door is closing, the door should automatically stop closing and reverse to prevent it from crushing something.
The auto-pressure reverse sensor should trigger when the garage door hits something while closing. It should trigger with 10 pounds of force or less. This sensor will immediately stop the door and cause it to reverse to prevent the door from crushing something.
The garage door auto-reversing pressure sensors did not function properly on either door. The auto-pressure reverse sensor should trigger when the garage door hits something. It should trigger with 10 pounds of force or less. This sensor will immediately stop the door and cause it to reverse to prevent the door from crushing something. Most garage door openers have a way to adjust the sensitivity of this sensor. Recommend adjustment at garage door opener as a DIY repair. If adjustment is not sufficient, or if this opener does not have a way to adjust the sensitivity, recommend repair by a qualified contractor.
Garage Floor
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Attic
Attic Overview
This section describes any accessible attic(s.) It describes the levels insulation and ventilation. This is also an area where the structure and electrical wires are often more exposed than in the living space of the house. Any damage, such as organic growth or rodent activity, will be documented below. For multi-unit housing, like condos or townhouses, only the attic above the inspected unit was examined.
Attic Access
Attic Access Location: Second Level South Bedroom Closet , Various Doors on Second Level
Photo of Hatch: Provided
Accessibility: Walked
Full attic access/visibility not possible due to limited clearance in the attic and surfaces blocked by insulation.
I recommend that owner looks around the attic at least twice a year just to become familiar with what's up there, and see potential issues early. Many attic issues are a result from excess water (either roof leaks or excess humidity coming from living space) which can quickly lead to rot, mold, and pest problems. The majority of these issues can be minimized or prevented if they are caught early on.
These photos show the location of the attic access hatches.
General Attic Photos
Roof Framing and Sheathing
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Visible Roof Structure Materials: Wooden Trusses
Visible Roof Sheathing Material: Wooden Skip Sheathing, OSB
Attic Insulation
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Approximate Insulation Depth: 6 to 8 inches
Insulation Type: Blown Fiberglass, Fiberglass Batts
In our climate, modern building standards recommend insulation with an R-value of between 38 and 60 in the attic. Different materials have different R-values, but in general, around 12 to 14 inches of insulation is the minimum recommended in attics.
The R-value of blown fiberglass is around 2.5 per inch of depth.
The R-value of fiberglass batts is around 3.2 per inch.
The fiberglass batt insulation was installed with the backing exposed in the attics with doors along the east side of the house, see example photos. The paper backing is supposed to be covered or it is a fire hazard. Recommend repair by a qualified contractor.
There was less attic insulation than current building standards recommend. Recommend addition of more insulation by a qualified contractor. This would be an energy efficiency upgrade for the house.
Attic and Roof Cavity Ventilation
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Upper (Exhaust) Attic Ventilation: Ridge vents
Lower (Intake) Attic Ventilation: Soffit vents
Attic and roof cavity ventilation is a frequently-misunderstood element of residential construction. All roof cavities are required to have ventilation. This is primarily to reduce moisture levels in the attic, which helps prevent organic growth issues, and keeps the roofing material cooler, which extends its lifespan. The general default standard is 1 to 150 of the attic area and ideally, this comes from at least 60% lower roof cavity ventilation and 40% upper, but this is a wild over-simplifications of the subject. As a good guiding principle the most important elements for healthy attic spaces, which are traditionally insulated and ventilated are:
- Make sure the ceiling between the living space and the attic is airtight
- Ventilate consistently across the whole lower part of the roof cavity with low, intake soffit venting
- Upper roof cavity venting is less important and if over-installed can exacerbate air migration into the attic from the living space.
- Avoid power ventilators which can depressurize the attic and exacerbate air migration from the house into the attic.
For more information, please see here.
Miscellaneous
There was what appeared to be a bird nest in the attic, see photo(s.) Recommend removal and screening of any access points by a qualified contractor.
Structure and Crawl Space / Basement
Structure and Crawl Space Overview
This section is about the structure and crawl space (if applicable.) It describes the foundation, floor, wall, ceiling and roof structures and the method used to inspect any accessible under floor crawl space areas. I inspect and probe the structural components of the home, including the foundation and framing, where deterioration is suspected or where clear indications of possible deterioration exist. Probing is not done when doing so will damage finished surfaces or when no deterioration is visible or presumed to exist. Inspectors are not required to offer an opinion as to the structural adequacy of any structural systems or components or provide architectural services or an engineering or structural analysis of any kind. Despite all efforts, it is impossible for a home inspection to provide any guaranty that the foundation, and the overall structure and structural elements of the building is sound. For multi-unit housing, like condos or townhouses, only the crawl space under the inspected unit was examined.
Crawl Space Access
Access Location: Garage
Method of Inspection: Crawled
Full crawl space access/visibility not possible due to limited clearance, surfaces blocked by insulation, and duct work.
I recommend that the owner looks around the crawlspace at least twice a year just to become familiar with what's down there, and see potential issues early. Many crawlspace issues are a result from excess water (foundation leaks, plumbing leaks, drainage issues, etc) which can quickly lead to rot, mold, pest problems, and even foundation failure. The majority of these issues can be minimized or prevented if they are caught early on.
General Crawl Space and/or Unfinished Basement Photos
Foundation
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Building Configuration: Crawl Space
Foundation Description: Concrete
Evidence of Seismic Protection: Present
Western Washington is in a seismic zone and earthquake resistance is an important consideration in any house. The basic idea behind earthquake retrofitting is to tie all the structural elements of the house together--especially bolting the house to the foundation--which makes each individual component stronger. Many older homes built prior to the mid 1970s were built without being bolted to their foundations. Without this anchorage, an earthquake can move the ground and the foundation right out from under the house. Earthquake resistance techniques continue to improve every year, but most houses from the mid 1970s and later have been constructed with mostly modern techniques.
Signs of seismic protection were noted during inspection. This inspection is not a cohesive analysis of seismic engineering, but I do look for signs of seismic protection.
Typical small cracks were noted in the foundation. The purpose of the foundation is to connect the weight of the building to well-compacted soils below the house so that the house does not move or settle. Concrete cracking can indicate poorly compacted soils below the house which could require a repair, but small cracks such as these can also be a sign of routine concrete shrinkage. It is not possible to determine or verify the cause of these cracks during a visual inspection. The easiest way to prevent on-going settlement in buildings is by controlling roof runoff and site drainage to promote dry soils around the foundation; wet soils do not bear weight well. This will also help to prevent crawl space moisture problems. In my experience, small cracks like these are common in concrete foundations of any age. I would monitor these cracks. If continued movement is noted, I would seek additional inspection by a structural engineer or qualified contractor to determine an accurate scope and urgency for repair to ensure a reliable connection between the foundation and well-compacted, weight-bearing soils.
Posts, Beams, and Footings
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Visible Post Material: Wood
Visible Beam Material: Wood
Visible Footing Material: Poured Concrete
Vapor Barrier
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Vapor Barrier Material: Plastic on Earth
Crawl Space Ventilation
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Ventilation Method: Exterior wall vents
Crawl spaces ventilation is designed to keep humidity levels as low as possible. Crawl spaces are a common location for rot and mold issues, and having airflow through the space helps keep moisture levels low.
Insulation
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Insulation Thickness: 4 to 6 inches
Insulation Type: Fiberglass batts
The sub-floor in this crawl space was covered with insulation in most, if not all, areas. This obstructs visual inspection as most of the framing was not able to be inspected. I did pull back insulation in places to spot check the floor frame. No defects were found.
In our climate, modern building standards recommend insulation with an R-value of at least 25 under the floor. Different materials have different R-values, but in general, that's around 8 inches of insulation.
The R-value of fiberglass batts is around 3.2 per inch.
Crawl space insulation was lower than modern building standards recommend. Recommend installation of additional insulation by a qualified contractor until it reaches a minimum R-25.
Moisture Conditions
No water was visible or present at the time of inspection
Plumbing
Plumbing Overview
This area of the report describes the exposed water plumbing materials, main water shutoff location, water pressure, the water heater, and plumbing fixtures in living spaces.
Water Meter
Location of Water Meter: Unknown
I could not find a water meter. This house seems to be on a public water system, which should have a metering device. Recommend disclosing the location of the water meter.
Street Supply
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Water Supply: Public water
Visible Pipe Material: Copper
Main Water Shut-off Location: Entry Closet
Water Pressure
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Approximate Water Pressure: 85 PSI
Pressure Regulator: None noted
Water pressure was high; see photo of a water pressure gauge on an exterior hose spigot. Normal residential water pressure is between 40 and 60 PSI. Anything over 80 PSI is considered excessive. This can be hard on appliances that use water (washing machines, dishwashers, etc) and can overstrain plumbing fittings, increasing the chance of leaks. Recommend installation of a pressure regulator by a qualified plumber, and adjusting it until water pressure is below 80 PSI.
Interior Distribution Pipes
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Visible Supply Pipe Materials: Copper
Visible Pipe Insulation: Missing in Crawl Space
Angle stops are the shut offs located below plumbing fixtures such as sinks and toilets. These are designed so that water can be shut off locally to a fixture without shutting off the water to the entire house so that localized fixtures can be serviced and repaired or replaced. Home inspectors do NOT test angle stops during inspection as there is a risk of leakage which could cause damage to the home.
Please note that many supply pipes were concealed behind walls are were not visible during the inspection. Determination of the supply piping materials used here is an educated guess based on the materials that were visible coming out of the wall and below fixtures.
The supply pipe insulation was incomplete in the crawl space, see example photo(s.) All supply lines in unheated spaces should be insulated to protect from freezing conditions that could damage the pipes and to prevent heat loss. DIY repair.
Waste Pipe and Discharge Plumbing
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Discharge Type: Septic system
Visible Waste and Vent Pipe Materials: ABS Plastic, PVC
Note that the waste piping system was mostly concealed behind finishes and not visible to inspection.
Note that when the sewage discharge type is listed here, it is listed based on public records and disclosure. It is always possible that the system is not as it is listed; for example, a property could be listed as a public sewer system when in fact it is on a private septic system. This is unlikely, but is possible.
Based on visible components, this property appeared to have a private on-site septic system. These are specialty systems and are excluded from this inspection. Comments in this report related to this system are made as a courtesy only and are not meant to be a substitute for a full evaluation by a qualified specialist. Generally, septic tanks should be pumped and inspected every 3 years. Depending on the type of system and municipal regulations, inspection and maintenance may be required more frequently, often annually. I recommend:
- Disclosing any information about this system's maintenance and repair history
- Provide any documentation available for this system
- Provide inspection and maintenance requirements for this system
- Hire a qualified specialist to evaluate, perform maintenance and make repairs as needed
Water Heater
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Location: Garage
System Type: Tankless
Manufacturer: Bosch
Manufacture Date: Unknown
Energy Source: Gas
Expansion Tank: Present
Temperature Pressure Relief (TPR) Value: Present - Not Tested
Combustion Gas Vent: No Issues Observed
The temperature and pressure relief (TPR) valve is arguably one of the most important safety devices in a house. Should the thermostats fail inside your water heater, the TPRV allows excess pressure to "blow off," which will prevent catastrophic build up of temperature and pressure which can make water heaters explosive. I do not test the "blow off valve" during inspection as there is a risk it could stick open and testing could cause the need for a repair.
Most manufacturers embed a manufacture date in their serial numbers, but this manufacturer did not. Because of this, I could not verify the age of the water heater. That being said, it appeared new. Recommend disclosing the age of the water heater.
This house had hot water provided by a tankless hot water heater. Annual flushing is typically recommended for these types of water heaters to ensure safe and reliable performance. I recommend having this water heater professionally serviced annually as a part of routine scheduled maintenance. With proper maintenance, the life expectancy of a tankless water heater is 20 years.
Water Temperature
Approximate Water Temperature Measured During Inspection (Fahrenheit): 121
Hose Spigots
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Irrigation
Irrigation System: Present
An exterior irrigation system was noted for this home. Sprinkler and irrigation systems are beyond the scope of this inspection. My own experience with irrigation systems is that they require annual attention / repair / servicing after every winter. Disclose any information about how to winterize this system as this should be done prior to cold weather. When testing the system, be sure sprinkler heads are adjusted so the system is not watering the side of the house. Hire a specialist to further evaluate this system as desired.
Sump Pumps and Drains
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Location: Crawl Space by Entrance
A sump pump system was noted for this building. Recommend disclosing information about this pump system; is it needed to keep the building dry? Some sump pumps are installed as a preventative measure, other systems are critical for keeping a building dry. The importance of this system is impossible to determine during a one-time inspection. If it is determined that the pump is critical to maintain a dry basement or crawl space, I recommend installing back up power systems so the pump will work in a power outage, have a back-up pump and an alarm to alert the occupants in case of a pump failure.
Sump pumps require annual DIY maintenance (cleaning) at a minimum. I also recommend checking them regularly to make sure they are operating. The sump pit will almost always have water in it, and the pump will not turn on until the water reaches a certain level. There is a float that controls when the pump should kick on, see photo. The operation of the pump can be checked by lifting up the float; when the float is lifted, the pump should turn on. With proper maintenance, a sump pump's life expectancy is approximately 10 years, though this can vary widely depending on how often it is actually running.
Electrical
Electrical Overview
This section is about the electric system in the house. It includes the amperage rating of the service, the location of the main disconnect, the location of any sub panel(s), the presence of solid conductor aluminum branch circuit wiring, and wiring methods. Inspectors are required to inspect the visible portions of the service drop from the utility to the house, the service entrance conductors, cables and raceways, the service equipment and main disconnects, the service grounding, the interior components of the service panels and sub panels, the conductors, the over-current protection devices (fuses or breakers), ground fault circuit interrupters, and a representative number of installed lighting fixtures, switches, and receptacles.
Electric Service
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Service Entrance Location: North Exterior
Service Entrance Description: Below Ground
Meter Base Rating: CL200 (up to 200 amp service)
Measured Voltage: 240
Electrical Grounding System
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
During a home or property inspection, every effort is made to inspect the visible components of the electrical system grounding. The grounding system is critical for safely discharging electrical surges, especially in the case of lightning strikes. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of the grounding system as much of the system is not visible and there are not practical tests one can perform in the way we can test a furnace or a plumbing fixture. However, there are many things that can lead me to recommend further evaluation of the grounding system by a licensed electrical contractor and they will be documented in the observations below if discovered.
Electrical Bonding System
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Visible Bonding Locations: Bonding Noted on Water Pipes, Bonding Noted on Gas Pipes
During the inspection, I attempt to visually document electrical system bonding. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of system bonding. All metallic systems (metal water pipes and metal gas pipes) in the building are required to be "bonded" (connected) to the building's electrical grounding system. Bonding creates a pathway to shunt static charges (that would otherwise build up on the system) to earth, and to provide a pathway to trip a breaker in the event that these bonded metallic components became energized.
Branch Wiring
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Visible Wire Material: Copper, Multi-strand Copper, Multi-strand Aluminum
Visible Wiring Type: Non-metallic sheathed cable (commonly called Romex. This is modern wiring.)
Unless the wiring in the building has been fully updated, this building likely has wiring that predates the late 1980s. Branch circuit wiring installed in buildings built prior to the late 1980s is typically rated for a maximum temperature of only 60 degrees Celsius. This includes non-metallic sheathed (Romex) wiring and fabric covered wiring. Knob and tube wiring, typically installed in homes built prior to 1950, may be rated for even lower maximum temperatures. Newer electric fixtures including lighting and fans typically require wiring rated for 90 degrees Celsius. Connecting newer fixtures to older, 60-degree-rated wiring is a potential fire hazard. Repairs for such conditions may involve replacing the last few feet of wiring to newer fixtures with new 90-degree-rated wire, and installing a junction box to join the old and new wiring. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if any such incompatible components are installed. Based on the age of this building, be aware that such components may be present.
Electrical Panel
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Main Electric Panel Location: Garage
Main Panel Amperage: 200 amps
Feeder Wire Size: 4/0 multistrand aluminum
Main Electrical Shut-off Location: Top of panel
Panel Manufacturer: GE
Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) breakers were not observed on all the recommended circuits in the panel. Modern building standards require most living spaces be protected by AFCI breakers which are a fire prevention device. The current version of the National Electric Code states: "All 120-volt, single phase, 15- and 20-ampere branch circuits supplying outlets or devices installed in dwelling unit kitchens, family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, laundry areas, or similar rooms or areas shall be protected." Recommend having a qualified electrician install AFCI breakers where required as a safety improvement.
No surge protection device was noted in the electrical panel, which started being recommended by modern building standards in 2020. Recommend installation of a surge protector by a qualified electrician.
Outlets, Switches, and Fixtures
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Inspection Method: Random Testing, Interior Belongings Obstructing Access
Electric Receptacles: Three prong receptacles
Non-tamper resistant outlets were observed in the house. Tamper resistant outlets require two prongs to be inserted into the outlet at the same time to energize them. This helps prevents shocks when items are put into outlets by themselves. This is primarily a safety improvement for children. Recommend upgrading all outlets to tamper resistant versions by a qualified electrician.
Half hot outlets were observed. These are outlets where one of the two plugs at the receptacle is controlled by a switch, and the other one is always on.
GFCI Outlets
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Outlets without an obvious reset are not tested for GFCI protection as I may not be able to re-engergize them after they turn off. Recommend testing the outlets in the location(s) listed below for GFCI protection using an outlet tester (like this one.) If the outlet(s) are not GFCI protected, repair by a qualified electrician is recommended.
For this house, outlets were not tested for GFCI protection in the following location(s): Exterior (often reset in the garage), Garage (often reset in the garage) and Crawl Space
Note: GFCI protection has become more extensive over time. The guidelines for GFCI coverage based on the year of construction is in the image below. If the house was built prior to any of these dates, there is a decent chance that coverage is not what it should be, and I may not have been able to accurately test for it.
During an inspection I test all ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) devices that are readily accessible. GFCIs are the electric receptacles with test and reset buttons that you commonly see around water; modern building standards require them in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, exterior outlets, or within 6 feet of a water source (like by a wet bar sink.) GFCIs are important safety devices that limit the duration of electrical shocks and have saved lives.
One GFCI outlet will protect all the outlets installed downstream from it, which can be confusing. I recommend being aware of where reset buttons are located in the house as GFCIs can trip and disable a circuit which can not be re-energized without resetting the button. I avoid testing if a receptacle or circuit is GFCI protected if it is not clear where the reset button is located. This is because reset buttons can be concealed behind stored items, so such a test risks disabling a circuit in the home.
The reset location of any GFCI outlets are I could test are listed below in the comments below.
GFCI protected outlets in the bathrooms reset in their respective bathrooms.
GFCI protected outlets in the laundry room reset in the laundry room.
GFCI protected outlets in the kitchen reset in the kitchen.
Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detector Systems
Smoke Detector Location(s), Second Level: Hall
Smoke Detector Location(s), First Level: None Observed
Carbon Monoxide Detector Location(s), Second Level: None Observed
Carbon Monoxide Detector Location(s), First Level: Dining Nook
Attached Garage: Heat Detector Missing
Testing of smoke or carbon monoxide detectors is not included in this inspection. Pushing the "Test" button only verifies that there is power at the detector--both for battery and hard wired versions--and does not actually test the operational workings of the detector. To test functionality of a detector, either smoke or carbon monoxide must be presented to the unit, and is outside the scope of this inspection. Because of this, I do not push the test button on smoke detectors or carbon monoxide detectors as it can provide a false sense of security.
Smoke detectors are a major safety component of a house. According to current building standards, every floor of a house should have at least one smoke detector in a common area outside of sleeping rooms, and all bedrooms should have a smoke detector inside the room.
Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death. The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. In addition, Washington State law (WAC 51-51-0315) now requires UL 2034 approved carbon monoxide alarms in all homes and condominiums being sold in Washington State. According to the law, at least one alarm should be installed outside of all sleeping areas (within 15 feet) and at least one on each floor of a residence.
There were no visible smoke detectors on the first level. Recommend installing smoke detectors in hallways and bedrooms as significant safety feature for occupants. Each level should have at least one smoke detector. DIY project.
There were no visible carbon monoxide detectors on the second level. Modern building standards require a carbon monoxide detector in a common area on every floor of any residential dwelling. Recommend installation by homeowner as a DIY project.
Modern building standards require a heat detector in attached garages. This garage did not have one. Recommend adding a heat detector to the garage ceiling as a DIY safety improvement.
Carbon monoxide detectors installed in the house were the type that are just plugged into a wall outlet. These are easily disabled as a child can simply unplug them. Recommend replacing the plug in detector(s) with battery operated versions as a DIY safety improvement.
Smoke detectors were not installed in all the bedrooms. According to modern building standards, every bedroom should have a smoke detector installed inside the room. Many older houses only have smoke detectors in the hallways. Recommend adding a smoke detector to each bedroom. DIY project.
Smoke detectors are reliable for approximately 10 years before needing replacement. Carbon monoxide detectors are reliable for approximately 6 years before needing replacement. Batteries (if applicable) should be replaced in both every six months to ensure reliable performance.
Low Voltage Wiring
Low voltage wiring systems are outside the scope of a home inspection, and were not tested. These include systems like speaker systems, security systems, telephone wires, ethernet wires, cable wires, etc.
Generator Equipment
Present
This home had a transfer switch for a generator for back-up electric power supply. Generator systems are beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend disclosing information regarding operation and maintenance of this system. Generators need to be run and serviced regularly to ensure reliable operation
Fuel Storage and Distribution
Fuel Overview
This section outlines the gas and/or oil source, and supply lines for appliances.
Gas Meter
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Gas Service Entrance and Meter Location: North Exterior
Main Gas Shut-off Valve Location: Left side of meter
Main Gas Shut-off Valve Location Rotation Direction: Quarter Turn Counterclockwise
The safety of the main gas supply line could be improved with a seismic detecting gas valve (the most common ones are made by a company called Northridge.) These valves can be installed at the gas meter and will automatically shut off the gas flow in the event of an earthquake. Recommend installation of a seismic detecting gas valve by a qualified plumber.
The main gas valve at the gas meter is tight enough to require a wrench and cannot be operated by hand alone. Recommend keeping a properly sized wrench at the gas meter in case of an emergency. Wrenches for this purpose can be purchase for less than $10 (like this one.)
Fuel Plumbing
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
No sediment trap was installed on the gas supply line for the furnace, see photo(s.) Sediment traps help filter out any minerals or rust in the gas supply before it enters the appliance, and can increase the lifespan of the gas burners. Recommend installation of a sediment trap by a qualified plumber.
Shut-Off Valve Locations
How To: Include
No gas shut-off valve was observed by the front living room gas fireplace. Modern building standards recommend an accessible gas shut-off valve be installed within 6 feet (though being in the same room is often considered good enough.) Recommend installation of an accessible gas shut-off valve by a qualified plumber.
Gas valves all operate with a handle that moves 1/4 turn to open/close them. If the handle is parallel to the pipe, the valve is open. If the handle is perpendicular to the pipe, the valve is closed.
Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces, and Ventilation
HVAC Overview
The heating, ventilation, and air conditioning and cooling system (often referred to as HVAC) is the climate control system for the structure. The goal of these systems is to keep the occupants at a comfortable level while maintaining indoor air quality and ventilation. The HVAC system is usually powered by electricity and/or natural gas, but can also be powered by other sources such as butane, oil, propane, solar panels, or wood.
Washington State's standards of practice require testing the HVAC equipment using standard equipment (the thermostat) if it's safe to do so. For a more thorough investigation of the system please contact a licensed HVAC contractor.
Furnace
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Location: Garage
Energy Source: Natural gas
Furnace Type: Gas forced air furnace, High Efficiency
Manufacturer: Bryant
Manufacture Date: 2010
Last Service Date: April 2022
This house had a gas forced air furnace. A critical component to all combustion equipment like this is the heat exchanger. This is the welded clam-shell piece of metal inside the furnace that contains the products of combustion so that moisture, carbon monoxide and other products of combustion do not mix with interior air and get safely vented to the exterior. Heat exchangers on modern furnaces have an average life expectancy of 15-20 years. Unfortunately, heat exchangers are buried inside of heating equipment; they are not visible and specifically excluded from a home inspection.
Recommend inspection and service of furnace by a qualified HVAC contractor as it had been a year or more since the last service. This will help ensure the furnace is operating safely and efficiently.
Furnaces should be serviced annually to verify safe and efficient operation. With proper maintenance, the life expectancy of a furnace is 20 years.
Vents and Flues
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Air Filters
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Filtration Systems: Disposable
Filter Location: Above Furnace
Filter Size (approx): 16 x 25 x 4
Air Flow Direction: Down
The air filter(s) should be inspected at least monthly and cleaned or replaced as required, typically every 3 months. Dirty filters are the most common cause of inadequate heating or cooling performance. Note the size and airflow direction before removing the already installed filter. There are two types of filters commonly used, either of which can be purchased at any Home Depot type store:
- Washable filters, (constructed of aluminum mesh, foam, or reinforced fibers) these may be cleaned by soaking in mild detergent and rising with water.
- Fiberglass or fabric disposable filters.
Cooling Systems and Heat Pumps
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Location(s): North Exterior
System Type: Air Conditioning
Manufacturer: Carrier
Source Type: Air Source
Energy Source: Electric
Manufacture Date: 2022
The air conditioning cooling system and condensate control system could not be tested during inspection. Outdoor temperatures should exceed 65 degrees F for at least 24-hours or the air conditioning equipment can be damaged by testing. Recommend disclosing whether the cooling is working.
Recommend that HVAC professional seasonally check the air conditioning unit, and ensure the unit is level. This can be accomplished at the same time as the annual furnace inspection. With proper maintenance, the life expectancy of an air conditioning unit is 20 years.
Heating and Cooling Distribution Systems
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Distribution Method: Forced Air / Ducts
Heat Source in Each Required Room: Present
Thermal images show some functioning ductwork. I use these images just to show the system was generally functioning during inspection. These are representative photos; not every heat register is photographed, but all visible ones were viewed with a thermal camera while the furnace was running. If any did not appear to be operating, there will be a note in this report.
Thermostat
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Location(s): First Level Hall
Thermostat Brand: Nest
Thermostats were not checked for calibration or timed functions.
Smart thermostats often require action from the seller to transfer ownership.
Gas Fireplaces
Inspected, appeared functional and in satisfactory condition at time of inspection other than notes, if any, below.
Location: Front Living Room, Back Living Room
Fireplace Types: Gas Insert
Dust buildup under a gas fireplace can be a potential fire hazard. Recommend regular cleaning of the space below the fireplace to prevent the buildup of dust and dirt.
Mechanical Ventilation Systems
Bath Fan Ducting: Not Visible, Ducted to exterior
Kitchen Fan Ducting: Ducted to exterior
Laundry Room Fan Ducting: Not Visible
Determining proper ventilation to the exterior from ventilation fans can be tricky as exhaust fan ductwork is often concealed behind finishes and fan terminations can be all over the house from the roof to the foundation, presenting difficulties for systematically checking every fan termination. During the inspection, every effort is made to verify proper terminations of fan vents to the exterior, but it is possible to miss something that is concealed behind finished surfaces.
The primary bathroom and second level hall bathroom fan ducts were spliced into each other, see photo. This is not ideal as moisture can travel from one duct to the other instead of being exhausted from the house. Recommend installation of a dedicated port for each fan by a qualified contractor.
Checking Out Procedure
Check Out List
Lights Off:People Still In House
Heating and Cooling Restored to Pre-Inspection Temperatures:Yes
Doors & Windows Locked:People still in house
Appliances Off / Finishing Cycle:Yes
GFCI Outlets Reset:Yes
Receipt -- The Full Report
123 Main Street Seattle, WA 98014
Single-Family Home (Seller: Pre-Listing Inspection) | $625.00 |
Additional Price for properties with Year Built (1960 to 1989) | $50.00 |
$675.00 | |
PAID |
Spotlight Inspection
15833 Mill Creek Blvd
#13345
Mill Creek, Washington 98012
425.200.4166