Unless the wiring in the building has been fully updated, this building likely has wiring that predates the late 1980's. Branch circuit wiring installed in buildings built prior to the late 1980s is typically rated for a maximum temperature of only 60 degrees Celsius. This includes non-metallic sheathed (Romex) wiring, and both BX and AC metal-clad flexible wiring. Knob and tube wiring, typically installed in homes built prior to 1950, may be rated for even lower maximum temperatures. Newer electric fixtures including lighting and fans typically require wiring rated for 90 degrees Celsius. Connecting newer fixtures to older, 60-degree-rated wiring is a potential fire hazard. Repairs for such conditions may involve replacing the last few feet of wiring to newer fixtures with new 90-degree-rated wire, and installing a junction box to join the old and new wiring. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if any such incompatible components are installed. Based on the age of this building, be aware that such components may be present.

In 1978, federal laws were past to prohibit use of lead and asbestos in building materials. Manufacturers of building materials were allowed to sell existing stocks of materials that were manufactured with lead and asbestos, so even buildings constructed as late as the mid-1980's could possibly contain lead or asbestos. Identification and testing for lead and asbestos and other environmental testing is beyond the scope of this home inspection. If you wish to seek additional information, I recommend contacting an environmental lab or industrial hygienist.

Solid conductor aluminum wiring was used in residential construction for 15 and 20-amp circuits in the 1960's through the 1970's. This wiring has proven to be problematic and a fire hazard, primarily due to problems with loose connections and metal fatigue. I looked hard to find any signs of solid conductor aluminum here. No signs were found. There is always a chance that solid conductor aluminum wiring exists and is concealed from view. If this wiring is ever uncovered during subsequent renovation work, I recommend removal and replacement.

This house was vacant / unoccupied at the time of inspection. Vacant and unoccupied houses present unique challenges for home inspection, especially the piping and wiring systems which have not be subject to regular use prior to the inspection. While these systems can be tested during inspection, this one-time test is different than regular use and it is difficult to know how these systems will respond to regular use after the inspection. For example, septic systems may initially function and then fail under regular daily use. Plumbing traps may operate with no signs of leaks and then let go when being actively used for a few days. Shower pans may only leak when someone is standing in the shower and taking a shower. Seals for plumbing fixtures can dry up and leak when not is use. Sewer lines with roots may allow water flow, but then fail when waste and tissue are flushed; it can take a few days for that to backup. Please understand we are trying our best to look for clues of past or existing problems to paint a realistic best-guess as to the reliability of these systems during inspection.

The inspection of the site includes the building perimeter, land grade, and water drainage directly adjacent to the foundation; trees and vegetation that adversely affect the structure; walks, grade steps, driveways, patios, and retaining walls contiguous with the structure.

(1) The inspector will:

(a) Describe the material used for driveways, walkways, patios and other flatwork around the home.

(b) Inspect

(i) For serviceability of the driveways, steps, walkways, patios, flatwork and retaining walls contiguous with the structure.

(ii) For proper grading and drainage slope.

(iii) Vegetation in close proximity to the home.

(c) Describe any deficiencies of these systems or components.

(2) The inspector is not required to:

• Inspect fences, privacy walls or retaining walls that are not contiguous with the structure.

• Report the condition of soil, trees, shrubs or vegetation unless they adversely affect the structure.

• Evaluate hydrological or geological conditions.

• Determine the adequacy of bulkheads, seawalls, breakwalls, and docks.

Here are some general grounds photos:

An inspection of the exterior includes the visible wall coverings, trim, protective coatings and sealants, windows and doors, attached porches, decks, steps, balconies, handrails, guardrails, carports, eaves, soffits, fascias and visible exterior portions of chimneys, per the Washington State standards of Practice.

The inspector is not required to inspect the following items. If any of the below items are mentioned in this report, they have been made as a courtesy only and are not covered under the scope of this inspection.

• Buildings, decks, patios, fences, retaining walls, and other structures detached from the dwelling.
• Safety type glass or the integrity of thermal window seals.
• Flues or verify the presence of flue liners beyond what can be safely and readily seen from the roof or the firebox of a stove or fireplace.

• Test or evaluate the operation of security locks, devices or systems.

• Enter areas beneath decks with less than five feet of clearance from the underside of joists to grade.

• Evaluate the function or condition of shutters, awnings, storm doors, storm windows, screens, and similar accessories.

Manufacturers of fiber cement siding have done a poor job helping inspectors and consumers distinguish their products after installation; these products have few if any distinguishing characteristics. This report will site James Hardie manufacturers installation requirements for reference because they are the most common manufacturer of fiber cement siding and the various manufactures seem to share similar installation guidelines. However, reference of these guidelines in this report does not ensure that the fiber cement siding here is a James Hardie product.

To see a prescriptive guide for residential wood deck construction click this link:

An inspection of the roof includes the roof covering materials; gutters and downspout systems; visible flashings; roof vents; skylights, and any other roof penetrations; and the portions of the chimneys and flues visible from the exterior.

(1) The inspector will:

• Traverse the roof to inspect it.

• Inspect the gutters and downspout systems, visible flashings, soffits and fascias, skylights, and other roof penetrations.

• Report the manner in which the roof is ventilated.

• Describe the type and general condition of roof coverings.

• Report multiple layers of roofing when visible or readily apparent.

• Describe any deficiencies of these systems or components.

(2) The inspector is not required to:

• Traverse a roof where, in the opinion of the inspector, doing so can damage roofing materials or be unsafe. If the roof is not traversed, the method used to inspect the roof must be reported.

• Remove snow, ice, debris or other material that obscures the roof surface or prevents access to the roof.

• Inspect gutter and downspout systems concealed within the structure; related underground drainage piping; and/or antennas, lightning arresters, or similar attachments.

• Operate powered roof ventilators.

• Predict remaining life expectancy of roof coverings.

Roof flashings are used to keep a roofing system water proof where the roofing material starts, stops, changes direction or is penetrated. During inspection, we look for standard flashing techniques that could be considered normal or standard in our region. Damaged, incomplete or non-standard flashings can be a sign of an older or less reliable roofing system and may require repair. Any non-standard flashings noted during inspection will be reported on below if found.

The life expectancy of metal roofing materials can vary from 20–50 years, depending on the method of manufacture, thickness, of the roofing material, the quality of the installation, and the roof design and exposure. Maintenance for metal roofs is often dictated by the manufacturer and recommended maintenance procedures can vary depending on whether the roof material is painted, has zinc all the way through, or whether it is thinner sheet metal with painted-on weather protection. Some roofs only require debris to be cleaned off to prevent water damming. Others have proprietary cleaning methods to prevent damage to coatings and may require touch-up of corrosion to prevent corrosion from causing leaks.

The inspection of attached garages and carports includes their framing, siding, roof, doors, windows, and installed electrical/mechanical systems pertaining to the operation of the home.

(1) The inspector will:

• Inspect the condition and function of the overhead garage doors and associated hardware.

• Test the function of the garage door openers, their auto-reverse systems and secondary entrapment devices (photoelectric and edge sensors) when present.

• Inspect the condition and installation of any pedestrian doors.

• Inspect fire separation between the house and garage when applicable.

• Report as a fire hazard the presence of any ignition source (gas and electric water heaters, electrical receptacles, electronic air cleaners, motors of installed appliances, etc.) that is within eighteen inches of the garage floor.

• Describe any deficiencies of these systems or components.

(2) The inspector is not required to:

• Determine whether or not a solid core pedestrian door that is not labeled is fire rated.

• Verify the functionality of garage door opener remote controls.

• Move vehicles or personal property.

• Operate any equipment unless otherwise addressed in the SOP.

The inspection of the electrical system includes the service drop through the main panel; subpanels including feeders; branch circuits, connected devices, and lighting fixtures.

(1) The inspector will:

(a) Describe in the report the type of primary service, whether overhead or underground, voltage, amperage, over-current protection devices (fuses or breakers) and the type of branch wiring used.

(b) Report

(i) The existence of a connected service-grounding conductor and service-grounding electrode when same can be determined.

(ii) When no connection to a service grounding electrode can be confirmed.

(c) Inspect the main and branch circuit conductors for proper over-current protection and condition by visual observation after removal of the readily accessible main and subelectric panel cover(s).

(d) Report, if present, solid conductor aluminum branch circuits. Include a statement in the report that solid conductor aluminum wiring may be hazardous and a licensed electrician should inspect the system to ensure it's safe.

(e) Verify

(i) The operation of a representative number of accessible switches, receptacles and light fixtures.

(ii) The grounding and polarity of a representative number of receptacles; particularly in close proximity to plumbing fixtures or at the exterior.

(iii) Ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection and arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) protection where required.

(f) Report the location of any inoperative or missing GFCI and/or AFCI devices when they are recommended by industry standards.

(g) Advise clients that homes without ground fault protection should have GFCI devices installed where recommended by industry standards.

(h) Report on any circuit breaker panel or subpanel known within the home inspection profession to have safety concerns.

(i) Describe any deficiencies of these systems or components.

(2) The inspector is not required to:

(a) Insert any tool, probe or testing device into the main or subpanels.

(b) Activate electrical systems or branch circuits that are not energized.

(c) Operate circuit breakers, service disconnects or remove fuses.

(d) Inspect ancillary systems, including but not limited to:

(i) Timers.

(ii) Security systems.

(iii) Low voltage relays.

(iv) Smoke/heat detectors.

(v) Antennas.

(vi) Intercoms.

(vii) Electrical deicing tapes.

(viii) Lawn sprinkler wiring.

(ix) Swimming pool or spa wiring.

(x) Central vacuum systems.

(xi) Electrical equipment that's not readily accessible.

(e) Dismantle any electrical device or control, except for the removal of the deadfront covers from the main service panel and subpanels.

(f) Move any objects, furniture, or appliances to gain access to any electrical component.

(g) Test every switch, receptacle, and fixture.

(h) Remove switch and receptacle cover plates.

(i) Verify the continuity of connected service ground(s).

During a home or property inspection, every effort is made to inspect the visible components of the electrical system grounding. The grounding system is critical for safely discharging electrical surges, especially in the case of lightning strikes. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of the grounding system as much of the system is not visible and there are not practical tests one can perform in the way we can test a furnace or a plumbing fixture.

A UFER ground connection was noted for the electrical grounding system. These are required and standard on newer construction houses. These grounds connect the electrical system to Rebar in the house foundation and make a reliable path to the earth for "earthing" or grounding the electrical system.

The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. In addition, Washington State law (WAC 51-51-0315) now requires UL 2034 approved carbon monoxide alarms in ALL homes and condominiums being sold in Washington State. The location should be: at least one alarm outside of all sleeping areas and one on each floor of the house. Best practices are to have these alarms hardwired with a battery back-up - though requirements are for the installation to meet manufacturer's specifications. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death. Alarms have a useful service life of roughly 6 years, so changing them more frequently than smoke alarms is recommended.

For reliability, fire marshals recommended updating smoke alarms every 10 years and changing batters bi-annually. Modern standards recommend smoke alarms in all bedrooms, in all hallways outside bedrooms and at least one on each floor of the building. The latest data indicate that we should be using photo-electric technology in our smoke alarms for improved fire detection and to reduce problems with false alarms which can lead to disabling of this important safety system. Unfortunately, the alarms have to be removed to determine if they are photo-electric or ionization types. It is surprisingly complex to accurately test a smoke alarm system and determine the reliability, age, and type of sensor technology used, especially as many homes can have half a dozen or more alarms throughout the house. A complete evaluation of smoke alarms is beyond the scope of this inspection. For optimal fire safety, I recommend taking control of these important safety devices and learning about how to service and maintain your smoke alarm system to keep the building occupants safe.

An inspection of the plumbing system includes visible water supply lines; visible waste/soil and vent lines; fixtures and faucets; domestic hot water system and fuel source.

(1) The inspector will:

(a) Describe the visible water supply and distribution piping materials; drain, waste and vent materials; water-heating equipment.

(b) Report

(i) The presence and functionality of sump pumps/waste ejector pumps when visible or confirm the float switch activates the pump when the sump is dry.

(ii) The presence and location of a main water shutoff valve and/or fuel shutoff valve(s), or report that they were not found.

(iii) The presence of the temperature and pressure relief (TPR) valve and associated piping.

(iv) Whether or not the water temperature was tested and state that the generally accepted safe water temperature is one hundred twenty degrees Fahrenheit.

(c) Inspect the condition of accessible and visible water supply pipes, drain/waste plumbing and the domestic hot water system when possible.

(d) Operate fixtures in order to observe functional flow.

(e) Check for functional drainage from fixtures.

(f) Describe any deficiencies of these systems or components in the inspection report.

(2) The inspector is not required to:

(a) Operate any valves, including faucets of freestanding or built-in appliances or fixtures, if the outlet end of the valve or faucet is connected or intended to be connected to an appliance.

(b) Inspect

(i) Any system that is shut down or winterized.

(ii) Any plumbing components not readily accessible.

(iii) Floor drains and exterior drain systems, including but not limited to, exterior stairwell drains and driveway drains.

(iv) Fire sprinkler systems.

(v) Water-conditioning equipment, including softeners and filter systems.

(vi) Private water supply systems.

(vii) Gas supply systems.

(viii) Interior components of exterior pumps or sealed sanitary waste lift systems.

(ix) Ancillary systems or components such as, but not limited to, those related to solar water heating and hot water circulation.

(c) Test

(i) Pressure or temperature/pressure relief valve.

(ii) Shower pans for leaks or use special equipment to test/scan shower or tub surrounds for moisture in surrounding substrate materials.

(d) Determine

(i) The potability of any water supply whether public or private.

(ii) The condition and operation of water wells and related pressure tanks and pumps.

(iii) The quantity of water from on-site water supplies.

(iv) The quality or the condition and operation of on-site sewage disposal systems such as waste ejector pumps, cesspools, septic tanks, drain fields, related underground piping, conduit, cisterns, and related equipment.

(e) Ignite pilot lights.

This shows the location of the water meter at the street side of the house. The meter was not spinning when viewed, indicating that there are likely no leaks in the supply.

This shows the water pressure tested during inspection.

This shows the location of the main water shutoff located in the basement.

The inspection of the heating system includes the fuel source; heating equipment; heating distribution; operating controls; flue pipes, chimneys and venting; auxiliary heating units.

(1) The inspector will:

(a) Describe the type of fuel, heating equipment, and heating distribution systems.

(b) Operate the system using normal readily accessible control devices.

(c) Open readily accessible access panels or covers provided by the manufacturer or installer, if readily detachable.

(d) Inspect

(i) The condition of normally operated controls and components of systems.

(ii) The condition and operation of furnaces, boilers, heat pumps, electrical central heating units and distribution systems.

(iii) Visible flue pipes and related components to ensure functional operation and proper clearance from combustibles.

(iv) Each habitable space in the home to determine whether or not there is a functioning heat source present.

(v) Spaces where fossil fuel burning heating devices are located to ensure there is air for combustion.

(vi) Electric baseboard and in-wall heaters to ensure they are functional.

(e) Report any evidence that indicates the possible presence of an underground storage tank.

(f) Describe any deficiencies of these systems or components.

(2) The inspector is not required to:

(a) Ignite pilot lights.

(b) Operate:

(i) Heating devices or systems that do not respond to normal controls or have been shut down.

(ii) Any heating system when circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or when doing so will damage the equipment.

(c) Inspect or evaluate

(i) Heat exchangers concealed inside furnaces and boilers.

(ii) Any heating equipment that is not readily accessible.

(iii) The interior of chimneys and flues.

(iv) Installed heating system accessories, such as humidifiers, air purifiers, motorized dampers, heat reclaimers; solar heating systems; or concealed distribution systems.

(d) Remove covers or panels that are not readily accessible or removable.

(e) Dismantle any equipment, controls, or gauges except readily identifiable access covers designed to be removed by users.

(f) Evaluate whether the type of material used to insulate pipes, ducts, jackets and boilers is a health hazard.

(g) Determine:

(i) The capacity, adequacy, or efficiency of a heating system.

(ii) Determine adequacy of combustion air.

(h) Evaluate thermostats or controls other than to confirm that they actually turn a system on or off.

Your heating system has disposable air filters installed. These should be changed quarterly or more to ensure proper air flow at the furnace. Be sure to install the filters with the arrows pointing in the same direction as the air flow in the furnace.

No fuel storage devices were found on site during our visual inspection.

This shows the gas shutoff at the meter.

The inspection of the interior includes the walls, ceilings, floors, windows, and doors; steps, stairways, balconies and railings.

(1) The inspector will:

(a) Verify

That steps, handrails, guardrails, stairways and landings are installed wherever necessary and report when they are missing or in need of repair and report when baluster spacing exceeds four inches.

(b) Inspect

(i) The overall general condition of cabinets and countertops.

(ii) Caulking and grout at kitchen and bathroom counters.

(iii) The interior walls, ceilings, and floors for indicators of concealed structural deficiencies, water infiltration or major damage.

(iv) The condition and operation of a representative number of windows and doors.

(c) Comment on the presence or absence of smoke detectors.

(d) Describe any noncosmetic deficiencies of these systems or components.

(2) The inspector is not required to:

(a) Report on cosmetic conditions related to the condition of interior components.

(b) Verify whether all walls, floors, ceilings, doorways, cabinets and window openings are square, straight, level or plumb.

During this inspection, a thermal imaging camera was used to check walls and ceilings for thermal anomalies and also to check specific appliances for verification of proper function. Thermal imaging cameras use the infrared light spectrum to build a picture of the house. Experienced thermogrophers look for clues in these thermal images that could lead us to otherwise concealed water leaks or missing air or thermal barriers. In older homes, incomplete air and thermal barriers are so common, we will only report on items that look significantly deficient and are worthy of correction. This service is included with our home inspection; it is limited and is not a complete thermal mapping of the house. The use of an infrared camera is well beyond the minimum standards for a home inspection, but we offer this service because we know it is valuable and can help us help our clients by improving our inspection services. Relevant thermal images if found will be included in this report.

Here are some general photos of the attic:

The inspection of the insulation and ventilation includes the type and condition of the insulation and ventilation in viewable unfinished attics and subgrade areas as well as the installed mechanical ventilation systems.

(1) The inspector will:

• Inspect the insulation, ventilation and installed mechanical systems in viewable and accessible attics and unfinished subfloor areas.

• Describe the type of insulation in viewable and accessible unconditioned spaces.

• Report missing or inadequate vapor barriers in subfloor crawlspaces with earth floors.

• Report the absence of insulation at the interface between conditioned and unconditioned spaces where visible.

• Report the absence of insulation on heating system ductwork and supply plumbing in unconditioned spaces.

• Describe any deficiencies of these systems or components.

(2) The inspector is not required to:

• Determine the presence, extent, and type of insulation and vapor barriers concealed in the exterior walls.

• Determine the thickness or R-value of insulation above the ceiling, in the walls or below the floors.

Attic and roof cavity ventilation is a frequently-misunderstood element of residential construction. All roof cavities are required to have ventilation. The general default standard is 1 to 150 of the attic area and ideally, this comes from at least 60% lower roof cavity ventilation and 40% upper, but this is a wild over-simplifications of the subject. As a good guiding principle the most important elements for healthy attic spaces, which are traditionally insulated and ventilated are:

1. Make sure the ceiling between the living space and the attic is airtight
2. Ventilate consistently across the whole lower part of the roof cavity with low, intake soffit venting
3. Upper roof cavity venting is less important and if over-installed can exacerbate air migration into the attic from the living space.
4. Avoid power ventilators which can depressurize the attic and exacerbate air migration from the house into the attic.

For more information, please see: Link

Below you will find contact information for contractors, vendors, or other businesses that may be able to help assist you. These referrals may be part of professional associations that Main Inspections is a member of. This in no way should be viewed as an endorsement. Main Inspections does not receive a referral fee or kickback from any referral that is provided. Your due diligence is strongly advised when selecting a contractor or vendor to assist you with repairs. We strongly advise seeking at least three quotes from any contractor when making repairs.