Thank you very much for entrusting me to perform your home inspection. The report is effectively a snapshot of the house, recording the conditions on a given date and time. Home inspectors cannot predict future behavior, and as such, we cannot be responsible for things that occur after the inspection.
How to Navigate the report
On a desktop browser, the left side of the screen is the navigation panel. Selecting any of the displayed text selects that section. You will see larger text "Summary" and "Full Report", explained below. Selecting Summary or Full Report will toggle between those two report. Although all browsers are compatible, the best experience is using Chrome on desktop.
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Throughout the report you may notice bright blue underlined text. These are links to more details either found in the report, or elsewhere on the internet. For example, in the summary section you may see "E-9 EXTERIORS:" By selecting the link (E-9) you will be taken to the 9th observation in the Exterior chapter where further details will be found about it including any photos/videos, notes etc.
Summary
The Summary section is organized by Observation type and presented in order of importance. For example "Red Flags", Hazardous" and "Repairs" are listed first as these are generally the observations that are most note worthy when making real estate decisions. The Summary report is meant as a quick look and not a substitute for reading the entire report.
Full Report
The full report section is organized by Chapters and Sections. When selecting Full Report, the Chapters will appear in the navigation panel. Select the chapter you're looking for. Chapters are logically grouped observations, photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos and hot links to additional information. For example the "Electrical" chapter will present all electrical observations noted, "Plumbing" will show all plumbing observations etc. In this way, it is easier to know which skilled trades to hire, and to provide them with the information they need. I encourage you to read the Full Report in it's entirety and keep it handy for future reference.
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
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Steven Walker, (613) 813-9713 steven@walkerhomeinspection.ca
Summary
Insurance Brief
- O-2 ORIENTATION:
Approximate Year of Construction: 2000-2009
- S1-1 STRUCTURE:
Foundation Type: Basement
- S1-2 STRUCTURE:
Foundation Material: Poured Concrete
- R-1 ROOF:
Roofing Material: Shingles
- R-2 ROOF:
Approximate Age of Roof Covering: New
- RG-1 ROOF (Garage):
Roofing Material: Shingles
- RG-2 ROOF (Garage):
Approximate Age of Roof Covering: 10-20 years
- A-2 ATTIC:
Attic Insulation Material: Unknown (not visible)
- E-2 ELECTRICAL:
Main Panel Amperage: 200 Amp
- E-3 ELECTRICAL:
Main Electrical Panel Type: Breakers
- E-5 ELECTRICAL:
Age of Main Electrical Panel: 10-20 years
- P-4 PLUMBING:
Water Distribution Plumbing: PEX
- P-5 PLUMBING:
Water Distribution Plumbing: Copper
Overall Comments
- O-1 ORIENTATION:
This inspection has been prepared for the seller. Every effort is made on pre-listing inspections to provide the same comprehensive and impartial inspection and report as for a buyer's inspection.
I found this home to generally be in excellent condition considering its age, style and environment. As with all homes however, there are improvements that can be made as well as some repairs and maintenance.
If you are a buyer and you are reading this report, I am happy to provide a complementary phone consult about this report once I have permission from my client to discuss and/or share the report. I can be found online at https://walkerhomeinspection.ca or via phone at (613)-813-9713.
Red Flags
Significant concerns (none noted in this inspection)Hazardous
Hazardous/Safety concerns (none noted in this inspection)Repairs
- S1-4 STRUCTURE:
The foam wall insulation in the basement is exposed. Rigid foam should be covered with 1/2" drywall to improve time to flee in the event of a fire. I recommend installing 1/2" drywall wherever rigid foam is visible within the envelope of the living quarters.
- R-3 ROOF:
One of the roof valleys does not appear to be well trimmed. As this is a new roof I recommend contacting the installer for a re-evaluation and potential correction.
Minor Repairs
- LS-1 LIVING SPACE:
Failing or missing grout in the foyer and living room is noted. Repair this to prevent tiles from becoming loose and physically damaged. Please note that this can be an indication of poor tile preparation below the tile.
- LS-6 LIVING SPACE:
Door adjustment is needed for proper operation of the bi-fold door on the 2nd floor as it binds with the floor
- E-9 ELECTRICAL:
An unprotected light bulb in the 2nd floor knee wall storage is noted. This can be a hazard as the bulb can easily be broken while retrieving belongings and/or moving around. Also note that the fixture is not secured to the wall. I recommend replacing the light fixture or installing a bulb cage and securing the fixture.
- E-10 ELECTRICAL:
A missing cover plate is noted on a basement electrical outlets which should be installed/replaced to protect all access to wiring.
- P-3 PLUMBING:
Corrosion was noted at the main water shut off- this could eventually result in a leak or unreliable performance though no leakage was noted during inspection. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair.
- P-10 PLUMBING:
The discharge tube for the water heater relief valve is installed too high off the ground. Discharge tubes should always terminate by pointing toward the ground to eliminate a scald hazard and should terminate between 6-inches and 12-inches off the ground, though specific requirements can vary by manufacturer and jurisdiction. Ideally, the discharge tube for a relief valve:
- Terminates to an exterior location or above a drain, though this is not always possible
- Slopes to drain to prevent water pooling inside the discharge tube
- Is not made from pipe with an inside diameter less than 3/4 on an inch
- Terminates to a visible location that can be monitored for leaks and discharges
- Does not have a threaded termination point which would prevent accidental capping of this important discharge
- Does not terminate into a drain pan
I recommend having this relief valve discharge tube further investigated and repaired as recommended by a licensed plumber.
Monitor
- B1-6 BUILDING:
The rain barrel that is collecting roof runoff seems to not have an overflow drain however the barrel is angled away from the building and runoff will continuing downhill. Monitor this to ensure overflow continues to run away from the building.
- B1-7 BUILDING:
I was unable to locate a surface termination for the north downspout. Monitor this drain for any water backup (to the downspout) during heavy storms. Ideally find the termination and keep all terminations clear of debris.
- A-3 ATTIC:
Turbine vents must remain vertical to perform correctly. If they begin to tip, they will likely begin to squeak which is disturbing, but more importantly they will eventually stop spinning as the bearings become damaged. When this occurs, water can easily penetrate the attic space. Monitor attic turbines on a regularly basis to ensure they are freely, and quietly spinning.
- P-18 PLUMBING:
A sump pit is in place however there is no pump or drainage piping installed. There is some minimal water at the bottom of the pit however this may be from furnace condensate as this pit is used to discharge the condensate. Given that there are no indications of moisture or water problems in the basement, it is likely that this pit was originally installed in the event ground water was present, however time seems to have proven that no ground water penetration occurs, and therefore no sump pump is required. Monitor this for any changes over time.
Disclosures
- E-4 ELECTRICAL:
Federal Pioneer Electric Stab Lok brand electric panels were noted (Federal Pacific in the USA). This is an obsolete brand of panel using Stab-Lok breakers with a reputation for malfunctioning . Some electricians and many home owners will claim that the panel has, "worked fine to date," but this is anecdotal evidence. Stab-Lok electric breakers are at greater risk of electrical fire and statistically less safe than any new electric panel. See the test results and recalls of these breakers in the images below.
Given that the panel and breakers appear to be in excellent condition, I have classified this observation as "Due Diligence" rather than "Hazard"
References:
- P-1 PLUMBING:
Water for this home is supplied by a well system. Inspection of the well, water supply and water quality is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend hiring a well specialist to inspect and evaluate the well and well water. Well equipment: the pump and captive storage tank have limited service lives and often require updating on a 20-year schedule. There are other elements of a well system that should be evaluated as well, such as the well production, often tested in a draw down test, water quality and well depth. Below are diagrams showing the typical equipment and their operation. If adjusting the overall water pressure, do not exceed 75psi (70 psi preferred) and ensure that the pressure tank is at 2psi lower (when empty) than the cut-in pressure setting.
- P-13 PLUMBING:
The water softeners installed is actually an electromagnetic water softener which requires no salt and works by electronically affecting calcium and magnesium. While this system may be working as advertised in this particular installation, this is an unproven whole home softening system. I recommend having a water quality test performed done by a specialist to ensure the water is being softened as expected. This is usually a free service, and should not be confused with testing for potable (safe) water which is also a free service provided by the Ontario Health Units.
- P-17 PLUMBING:
This property is on a private on-site septic system. These are specialty systems and are excluded from this inspection. Comments in this report related to this system are made as a courtesy only and are not meant to be a substitute for a full evaluation by a qualified specialist. Generally, septic tanks should be pumped and inspected every 3 years. Depending on the type of system and municipal regulations, inspection and maintenance may be required more frequently, often annually. I recommend:
- Disclosing any information about this system's maintenance and repair history
- Provide any documentation available for this system
- Provide inspection and maintenance requirements for this system
- Hire a qualified specialist to evaluate, perform maintenance and make repairs as needed
- H-4 HVAC:
The propane tank(s) are likely leased with a small annual cost.
Maintenance
- B1-5 BUILDING:
Bees / wasps nests were noted in the HRV vents. This can be common, but they can become a real nuisance and even difficult to treat once they become too prolific. Removal of the nests is recommended. Consult with a handyman or qualified pest control operator as needed.
- B1-11 BUILDING:
Shrubs, trees, and planters may add to the appearance and value of a property, but can adversely affect the building. Shrubs and trees too close to a building can hold water against walls, prevent wood components from drying out and provide pests with good access into the house. Tree branches can cause mechanical damage to roof and wall surfaces, leaves can clog gutters and downspouts, and roots can clog drainage pipes and in severe cases, dislodge foundations. Raised flower gardens or planters can cause wet basement problems, especially as a result of heavy watering of flowers during the summer months.
- RG-3 ROOF (Garage):
Tune up repairs are recommended to prolong the reliable and useful service life of this roof. This is an older roof, but there appears to be useful remaining service life. The roofing material on this building is done in a three tab composition shingle. These shingles are often rated as 20 year shingles, though I find in practice, as a roof assembly, 15-18 years is more realistic depending on the quality of the installation, the amount of exposure and the pitch of the roof. The tiles are beginning to deteriorate at the edges and where the tiles are bent at roof direction changes, they have cracked and require replacement. Hire a licensed roofing contractor to further evaluate and repair this roof to ensure reliable roof performance.
- P-14 PLUMBING:
Sediment filters are used to remove fine particles from well water. These are important filters to have upstream of a UV light to ensure the UV light is killing all bacteria. The sediment filter is usually changed at approx. 3-6 months or when brown.
- P-16 PLUMBING:
The hose faucet noted is a "frost free" type which are (arguably) more resistant to bursting in cold weather. These faucets may not need to be turned off on the inside but be sure to disconnect any attached hose before winter freeze otherwise the benefit of this style of faucet may be eliminated as the hose can trap water in the faucet.
- H-6 HVAC:
The heating ductwork is dirty and needs to be cleaned to improve indoor air quality and efficiency of the heating system. It is a good idea that ductwork is professionally cleaned whenever occupancy changes..
- H-9 HVAC:
A WETT inspection is recommended and may be required by your lender and/or insurance company before use of the wood stove. An annual inspection and cleaning of all chimneys, fireplaces, solid fuel-burning appliances, and vents is also recommend. This inspection includes, not only cleaning the interior of the chimney pipe, but also the use of specialized tools and testing procedures such as video cameras, etc. to thoroughly evaluate the serviceability of the entire flue lining and fireplace/chimney system. If a chimney cleaning has not been performed over the past 12 months, such an inspection is recommended before the home changes ownership---for fire safety reasons. Implement any repairs as recommended.
Future Expenses
- P-7 PLUMBING:
The life expectancy of most electric water heaters is 10 to 15 years. This water heater is beyond its normal lifespan and could fail at any time. Be sure to monitor for any leaks, smells or low temperature and be sure to have it serviced annually to extend it's lifespan.
- H-2 HVAC:
You can expect a gas furnace to last anywhere between 15 and 30 years, with many furnaces being replaced around the 17-year mark. Be sure to regularly schedule annual maintenance and consider budgeting for replacement in the coming years.
Improvements
- B1-9 BUILDING:
A guardrail is needed for all decks more than 24-inches above the ground. The railing should be at least 36-inches tall with vertical openings no larger than 4-inches. No guardrail has been installed here and one is required where the deck is more than 24-inches above the ground.
- B1-10 BUILDING:
The openings for the deck guardrail are larger than modern standard of 4-inches. Caution should be used, especially around small children. Improving to modern standard is recommended.
- K1-3 KITCHEN:
A ductless exhaust fan was noted for the cook-top. Installation of a fan that ducts to the exterior is recommended to remove moist air and odors to the exterior. Please note that if you switch to a gas range or cooktop in the future, a fan that vents to the exterior is required. Gas ovens produce carbon monoxide while running and should really have an exhaust vent to the exterior.
- B-1 BATHROOMS:
The toilet (in the 1st Floor and Ensuite) have not been caulked to the floor. Caulking the toilet to the floor is recommended and even required though opinions on this can vary. Best practice is to caulk the toilet to the floor, but leave a gap on the back of the toilet that remains un-caulked so if the toilet leaks, water has an escape route and is quickly observed for repair. The biggest risks of not caulking the toilet to the floor is that the toilet can become loose, and it is difficult to completely clean into the gap and as such is unsanitary. Here is a site that details the process.
- B-2 BATHROOMS:
The 1st floor bathroom ventilation is missing. I recommend adding a dedicated bathroom exhaust fan. This can help reduce indoor relative humidity in the home and help facilitate better indoor air quality and reduce conditions conducive to molds.
- B-3 BATHROOMS:
Ensuite bathroom exhaust is by operable window only. This is likely to be inadequate particularly during winter months when opening the window is unlikely. An improvement is to add a dedicated bathroom exhaust fan. This can help reduce indoor relative humidity in the home and help facilitate better indoor air quality and reduce conditions conducive to molds.
- LS-3 LIVING SPACE:
The interior stairs are missing a graspable handrail for safety. This should be a round railing 1 and 1/4 inches - 2 inches in diameter. If the railing is not round it must have a finger groove that is 3/4 of an inch down from the tallest point of the rail. The graspable handrail should also be 1.5 inches from the wall and have returns into the wall. Have a qualified contractor build suitable railings to reduce the potential for falls.
- LS-4 LIVING SPACE:
A guardrail is needed for the basement stairs to eliminate a safety hazard, especially for children. Railings with openings no larger than 4 inches are recommended for all stairs with three or more stairs (risers). Handrails that have returns into the walls are needed for the length of the stairs. Hire a carpenter to repair and bring guardrail and handrail up to modern standards.
- LS-10 LIVING SPACE:
The carbon monoxide (CO) alarms used on the 1st floor are the type that are plugged into the wall. These are easily disabled as a child can simply unplug them. An improvement would be CO alarms in ceiling-mounted detectors. The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. The location should be: at least one alarm outside of all sleeping areas, one on each floor of the house and one in each room where combustion occurs. Best practices are to have these alarms hardwired with a battery back-up - though requirements are for the installation to meet manufacturer's specifications. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death. Alarms have a useful service life of roughly 6 years, so changing them more frequently than smoke alarms is recommended.
- G1-1 GARAGE:
The garage outlet cover is damaged and needs to be replaced.
- G1-3 GARAGE:
A guardrail is needed for the garage stairs to eliminate a safety hazard, especially for children. Railings with openings no larger than 4 inches are recommended for all stairs with three or more stairs (risers). Handrails that have returns into the walls are needed for the length of the stairs. Hire a carpenter to repair and bring guardrail and handrail up to modern standards.
- G1-4 GARAGE:
The loft doors open without a guardrail.
- G1-5 GARAGE:
To eliminate a condition conducive to wood destroying organisms, remove the wood pile that is stacked up near the building. Remove away from the structure and store in a dry place.
- G1-6 GARAGE:
Incorrect roof framing hangers have been used in the garage roof framing. They are not long enough (they should cover the height of the framing member, and the bearing seat should match the angle of the frame. Consult with a framing specialist for improvements.
- E-8 ELECTRICAL:
Exterior receptacles located on the outside of the building (specifically on the covered west deck) should be GFCI protected and they are not weather protected to current standards. I recommend upgrading the exterior outlet covers to "while in use" styles including those that have older exterior covers.
- P-8 PLUMBING:
Install a foam pad below the water heater to prevent corrosion of the tank and to reduce heat loss to the cold concrete slab. Foam pads may be required for electric water heaters installed in contact with a concrete floor. They are recommended for gas water heater installed on concrete.
- P-9 PLUMBING:
An expansion tank is recommended for the water heater; these are required if the house has a closed plumbing system. Expansion tanks help reduce pressure on the plumbing system by creating a buffer or a place for water to expand into as water swells during thermal expansion. Installation of expansion or pressure tanks is modern installation practice and will be required if a pressure reducing valve has been installed on a public water supply. Consult with a qualified plumber to install.
- P-11 PLUMBING:
Infrared imaging shows that the water at the faucet is 54.7 C (130.4 F) which may be a scalding hazard. To prevent scalding, standards recommend indoor hot water temperatures do not exceed 49 C (120 F). There is some evidence that hot water temperatures in the tank water heater should be greater than 54.5 C (130 F) to prevent Legionaries' disease from developing. A tempering valve at the tank allows the tank temperature to be set as high as 60 C (140 F) to ensure all bacteria is neutralized while providing 49 C (120 F) temperature at the faucets.
- P-15 PLUMBING:
No water bacteria treatment is noted (sediment filter and UV light). Water supply is from a private well. It is a good idea to add a UV light filter to ensure harmful bacteria is removed. Be sure to have the water tested at any Health Unit in Ontario at every change of season.
Cosmetic Repairs
- LS-2 LIVING SPACE:
A cracked tile and chipped tile was noted in the kitchen floor during inspection. Note that spare tiles were found in the basement. These may match and can be used if repaired.
- S1-3 STRUCTURE:
Cracks were noted in the concrete slab floor of the basement. This is pretty typical and often occur during the drying process often due to shrinkage. This is of no concern however if over time these cracks change (wide, lengthen etc.) then a re-evaluation may be necessary.
- G1-2 GARAGE:
Typical cracks were noted in the concrete garage slab. You can fill the cracks with a masonry rated caulking, but no repair is needed at this time; this is a cosmetic defect.
Shutoff Locations
Full Report
BUILDING
Elevations
Siding & Trim
Soffit, Fascia & Eaves
Downspouts & Drainage
Windows
Window wells, Stairwells
Doors
Outlets, Switches, Lights
Front Porch (West)
Balcony (West)
Deck (South)
Deck (North)
Vegetation
KITCHEN
General Kitchen Photos
Cabinets, Countertops
Outlets, Switches, Lights
Sink
Water Filters (Below Sink)
Dishwasher
Refrigerators
Ranges, Ovens and Cooktops
Exhaust/Ventilation
Disposers
Floor
LAUNDRY
General Laundry Pictures
Cabinet, Countertop
Outlets, Switches, Lights
Sink
Washer
Dryer
Ventilation
Floor
BATHROOMS
General Bathroom Photos
Cabinet, Countertop
Outlets, Switches, Lights
Sink
Toilet
Bathtub / Shower
Bathroom Ventilation
Doors
Floor
Misc. Observations
LIVING SPACE
General Interior Photos
Floors
Walls, Ceiling
Wall Insulation
Stairs and Railings
Windows
Doors (Interior)
Doors (Exterior)
Outlets, Switches, Lights
Ceiling Fans
Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm Systems
Rodents
GARAGE
Garage General
Garage Doors and Automatic Openers
Outlets, Switches, Lights
Garage Floor
Interior
Exterior
Structure
PLUMBING
Water Meter
Water Supply
Distribution Pipe
Water Heater
Water Temperature
Water Treatment
Exterior Faucet (Hose Bib)
Waste
Sump Pumps and Drains
ORIENTATION
Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations
Inspection Type: Pre-Listing
Style of Home: Traditional Multi Story
Building Use: Residential Single Family
Approximate Square Footage: 1600
Approximate Year of Original Construction: 2005
Attending the Inspection: Seller's Agent, Seller
Occupancy: Occupied
Animals Present: No
Weather during the inspection: Partly cloudy
Approximate temperature during the inspection: Approx. 20[C]
Ground/Soil surface conditions: Dry
This inspection has been prepared for the seller. Every effort is made on pre-listing inspections to provide the same comprehensive and impartial inspection and report as for a buyer's inspection.
I found this home to generally be in excellent condition considering its age, style and environment. As with all homes however, there are improvements that can be made as well as some repairs and maintenance.
If you are a buyer and you are reading this report, I am happy to provide a complementary phone consult about this report once I have permission from my client to discuss and/or share the report. I can be found online at https://walkerhomeinspection.ca or via phone at (613)-813-9713.
This home was occupied at the time of the inspection. Inspection of occupied homes presents some challenges as occupant belongings can obstruct visual inspection of and access to parts of the building. I do my best during inspection to work around belongings to discover as much as possible about the house without moving or damaging personal property, however, the presence of personal items does limit the inspection.
The approximate square footage listed here is listed as a courtesy and is based off of public records, disclosure or a visual estimation. An evaluation of square footage of the buildings and property lines is beyond the scope of this inspection.
BUILDING
Elevations
For the Purposes of This Report, the Front Door Faces: West
West
 |  |
South
 |  |
East
 |  |
North
 |  |
Siding & Trim
Siding Material: Vinyl
Clearance to Grade: Inspected
Bees / wasps nests were noted in the HRV vents. This can be common, but they can become a real nuisance and even difficult to treat once they become too prolific. Removal of the nests is recommended. Consult with a handyman or qualified pest control operator as needed.
 |  |
Soffit, Fascia & Eaves
Inspected from Ground
Downspouts & Drainage
Downspout Discharge: Below grade
Site Description: Moderate Slope
The rain barrel that is collecting roof runoff seems to not have an overflow drain however the barrel is angled away from the building and runoff will continuing downhill. Monitor this to ensure overflow continues to run away from the building.
Windows
Inspected
Window wells, Stairwells
Window Well: None Noted or Required
Basement Well: None Noted
Doors
Inspected
Outlets, Switches, Lights
Defects or Improvements are noted on the exterior. Refer to the ELECTRICAL chapter for details.
Front Porch (West)
General Pictures: Shown here
These are general pictures
Surface: Wood
A guardrail is needed for all decks more than 24-inches above the ground. The railing should be at least 36-inches tall with vertical openings no larger than 4-inches. No guardrail has been installed here and one is required where the deck is more than 24-inches above the ground.
 |  |
Balcony (West)
General Pictures: Shown here
These are general pictures
 |  |
Surface: Wood
Deck (South)
General Pictures: Shown here
These are general pictures
 |  |
Surface: Wood
Construction: Wood
Guardrail: Inspected
Structure: Wood
Ledger Board: Inspected
Posts, Beams and Footings: Inspected
The openings for the deck guardrail are larger than modern standard of 4-inches. Caution should be used, especially around small children. Improving to modern standard is recommended.
.jpg) |  |  |
Deck (North)
General Pictures: Shown here
These are general pictures
 |  |  |
 |
Surface: Wood, Carpet covered
Construction: Wood
Guardrail: Inspected
Structure: Wood
Ledger Board: Inspected
Posts, Beams and Footings: Inspected
Vegetation
Shrubs, trees, and planters may add to the appearance and value of a property, but can adversely affect the building. Shrubs and trees too close to a building can hold water against walls, prevent wood components from drying out and provide pests with good access into the house. Tree branches can cause mechanical damage to roof and wall surfaces, leaves can clog gutters and downspouts, and roots can clog drainage pipes and in severe cases, dislodge foundations. Raised flower gardens or planters can cause wet basement problems, especially as a result of heavy watering of flowers during the summer months.
GROUNDS
Driveway, Walkway
Driveway: Gravel
Walkways: Grass
Retaining Walls
Retaining Wall Material: Stone
This property is located on the water. This visual inspection does not include an evaluation of soil stability, docks or bulk heads. Zoning and feasibility of the site for development and use are also beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend consulting further with specialists and or local building departments if more information about any of these elements of the site is desired.
Docks and bulkheads can protrude out onto the water and may be underwater at locations that may be critical to their support and safety. Inspections of these locations can require underwater viewing and/or small boat usage to gain proper access, which is not a part of this report or investigation.
These locations may be commented upon in order to bring attention to their condition, but docks and bulkheads are a specialized type of construction that can be tricky to maintain or update. Underwater work, pile driving with barge and crane connections, and sometimes environmentally sensitive work that can be complex to permit may be required. I recommend that any concerns regarding docks, or bulkheads be investigated and inspected by contractors or inspectors that are very familiar with this type of construction.
Fences
None noted
Outbuildings, Trellises, Storage Sheds, Barns
Storage shed, Detached garage
KITCHEN
General Kitchen Photos
Shown here
These are general photos of the kitchen
 |  |
Cabinets, Countertops
Material: Cabinet (Wood laminate), Countertop (Plastic laminate)
Outlets, Switches, Lights
Inspected
Sink
Inspected
Water Filters (Below Sink)
None Noted
Dishwasher
Tested
Refrigerators
Checked
Thermal images show the refrigerator operating during inspection.
Ranges, Ovens and Cooktops
Fuel: Electric
Tested
Thermal images show the cooktop operating during inspection.
 |  |
Exhaust/Ventilation
Tested
Type: Ductless Fan - Electric
A ductless exhaust fan was noted for the cook-top. Installation of a fan that ducts to the exterior is recommended to remove moist air and odors to the exterior. Please note that if you switch to a gas range or cooktop in the future, a fan that vents to the exterior is required. Gas ovens produce carbon monoxide while running and should really have an exhaust vent to the exterior.
Disposers
None Noted
Floor
Floor Materials: Tile
Defects or Improvements are noted in the kitchen. Refer to the LIVING SPACE chapter, Floor section for details.
LAUNDRY
General Laundry Pictures
Shown here
These are general photos of the laundry facility
Cabinet, Countertop
No Countertop noted, No Cabinets noted
Outlets, Switches, Lights
Inspected
Sink
None Noted
Washer
Tested
Dryer
Not tested (clothes in dryer)
Power Source: Electric
Ventilation
Operable window
Floor
Floor Materials: Plastic sheet goods
BATHROOMS
General Bathroom Photos
1st Floor, Ensuite
This is the 1st floor bathroom
 |  |
This is the Ensuite bathroom
 |  |  |
Cabinet, Countertop
Material: Cabinet (Wood - 1st floor), Countertop (Wood - 1st floor)
No Cabinet Noted, No Countertop Noted, (Ensuite)
Outlets, Switches, Lights
Inspected
Sink
Inspected
Toilet
Inspected
The toilet (in the 1st Floor and Ensuite) have not been caulked to the floor. Caulking the toilet to the floor is recommended and even required though opinions on this can vary. Best practice is to caulk the toilet to the floor, but leave a gap on the back of the toilet that remains un-caulked so if the toilet leaks, water has an escape route and is quickly observed for repair. The biggest risks of not caulking the toilet to the floor is that the toilet can become loose, and it is difficult to completely clean into the gap and as such is unsanitary. Here is a site that details the process.
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Bathtub / Shower
Inspected
Bathroom Ventilation
Type: None noted
The 1st floor bathroom ventilation is missing. I recommend adding a dedicated bathroom exhaust fan. This can help reduce indoor relative humidity in the home and help facilitate better indoor air quality and reduce conditions conducive to molds.
Ensuite bathroom exhaust is by operable window only. This is likely to be inadequate particularly during winter months when opening the window is unlikely. An improvement is to add a dedicated bathroom exhaust fan. This can help reduce indoor relative humidity in the home and help facilitate better indoor air quality and reduce conditions conducive to molds.
Doors
Inspected
Floor
Floor Materials: Plastic sheet goods
Misc. Observations
There is no toilet paper dispenser for the ensuite bathroom.
LIVING SPACE
General Interior Photos
1st Floor, 2nd Floor
First Floor Pictures
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Second Floor Pictures
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Floors
Floor Materials: Tile, Wood Laminate
No floor settlement noted
Failing or missing grout in the foyer and living room is noted. Repair this to prevent tiles from becoming loose and physically damaged. Please note that this can be an indication of poor tile preparation below the tile.
A cracked tile and chipped tile was noted in the kitchen floor during inspection. Note that spare tiles were found in the basement. These may match and can be used if repaired.
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Walls, Ceiling
Wall and Ceiling Materials: Drywall
Wall Insulation
Wall Insulation: Not Visible
Stairs and Railings
Inspected
The interior stairs are missing a graspable handrail for safety. This should be a round railing 1 and 1/4 inches - 2 inches in diameter. If the railing is not round it must have a finger groove that is 3/4 of an inch down from the tallest point of the rail. The graspable handrail should also be 1.5 inches from the wall and have returns into the wall. Have a qualified contractor build suitable railings to reduce the potential for falls.
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A guardrail is needed for the basement stairs to eliminate a safety hazard, especially for children. Railings with openings no larger than 4 inches are recommended for all stairs with three or more stairs (risers). Handrails that have returns into the walls are needed for the length of the stairs. Hire a carpenter to repair and bring guardrail and handrail up to modern standards.
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Windows
Window Glazing: Double pane
Windows are double pane.
Approximate Age: <20 years
The average lifespan of residential windows is 15 to 30 years if well maintained.
I try to determine the age of most windows by looking for a date stamp in the window frame. When this is not possible or a date stamp does not exist, any comment about window age is purely based on visible observation to be confirmed by a window specialist as desired.
Doors (Interior)
Inspected
Door adjustment is needed for proper operation of the bi-fold door on the 2nd floor as it binds with the floor
Doors (Exterior)
Inspected
Outlets, Switches, Lights
Defects or Improvements are noted with outlets/switches. Refer to the ELECTRICAL chapter for details.
Ceiling Fans
Inspected
Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm Systems
CO/Smoke Alarms Noted:On 2nd FloorIn Basement
CO Alarm Missing or Old: 1st Floor
The carbon monoxide (CO) alarms used on the 1st floor are the type that are plugged into the wall. These are easily disabled as a child can simply unplug them. An improvement would be CO alarms in ceiling-mounted detectors. The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. The location should be: at least one alarm outside of all sleeping areas, one on each floor of the house and one in each room where combustion occurs. Best practices are to have these alarms hardwired with a battery back-up - though requirements are for the installation to meet manufacturer's specifications. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death. Alarms have a useful service life of roughly 6 years, so changing them more frequently than smoke alarms is recommended.
Rodents
None Noted
STRUCTURE
Foundation
% of Foundation Not Visible: 90%
Foundation Type: Basement
Foundation Material: Poured concrete
Basement/Crawlspace
Shown here
General Basement/Crawlspace Photos
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Cracks were noted in the concrete slab floor of the basement. This is pretty typical and often occur during the drying process often due to shrinkage. This is of no concern however if over time these cracks change (wide, lengthen etc.) then a re-evaluation may be necessary.
Framing
Floor Framing: TJI (Engineered Joist)
TJI stands for Truss Joist I-Joist. The engineered wood I-joist can be used for joists or trusses, are stronger and lighter than dimensional lumber of similar widths, and can span greater distances. The truss-joists are engineered to resist twisting and warping, and won't shrink like dimensional lumber.
Sub-Floor Material: OSB
OSB is a widely used, versatile engineered wood panel made using waterproof heat-cured adhesives and rectangularly shaped wood strands that are arranged in cross-oriented layers. It is similar in strength and performance as plywood, resisting deflection, warping and distortion. Compared to plywood, OSB is heavier and swells more when wet, especially at panel edges, retaining water longer than plywood.
Wall Framing: Not visible
Wall Sheathing: Not visible
Ceiling Framing: Not visible
Insulation
Insulation Type: Rigid foam
Approximate R-Value: R-7.5
The foam wall insulation in the basement is exposed. Rigid foam should be covered with 1/2" drywall to improve time to flee in the event of a fire. I recommend installing 1/2" drywall wherever rigid foam is visible within the envelope of the living quarters.
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Moisture
None Noted
Rodents & Birds
None Noted
ROOF
Roof Covering
Roof Covering Materials: Architectural grade composition shingle
This type of roofing can replicate the appearance of slate or tile roofing, while remaining closer in cost to more common asphalt or wood shingle materials. The usual life expectancy is 25-30 years.
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Method of Roof Inspection: Viewed with camera from ground
Roof Style: Gable
Flashings: Inspected
Approximate Age of Roof Covering: New
One of the roof valleys does not appear to be well trimmed. As this is a new roof I recommend contacting the installer for a re-evaluation and potential correction.
Gutters
Type: Seamless Aluminum
Chimney
Inspected
Chimney shown here
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Chimney Material: Metal
GARAGE
Garage General
Interior Garage Pictures: Shown here
These are general photos of the garage interior
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Exterior Garage Pictures: Shown Here
These are general photos of the garage exterior
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Garage Doors and Automatic Openers
Garage Door Type: Metal Clad over Wood
Garage Door Opener: Inspected
Garage Occupant Door: Inspected
Outlets, Switches, Lights
Inspected
The garage outlet cover is damaged and needs to be replaced.
Garage Floor
Typical cracks were noted in the concrete garage slab. You can fill the cracks with a masonry rated caulking, but no repair is needed at this time; this is a cosmetic defect.
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Interior
Walls: Wood Sheathing
A guardrail is needed for the garage stairs to eliminate a safety hazard, especially for children. Railings with openings no larger than 4 inches are recommended for all stairs with three or more stairs (risers). Handrails that have returns into the walls are needed for the length of the stairs. Hire a carpenter to repair and bring guardrail and handrail up to modern standards.
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The loft doors open without a guardrail.
Exterior
To eliminate a condition conducive to wood destroying organisms, remove the wood pile that is stacked up near the building. Remove away from the structure and store in a dry place.
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Structure
Incorrect roof framing hangers have been used in the garage roof framing. They are not long enough (they should cover the height of the framing member, and the bearing seat should match the angle of the frame. Consult with a framing specialist for improvements.
ROOF (Garage)
Roof Covering
Roof Covering Materials: Three-tab composition shingle
3-tab shingle (or '25 year shingles') is the most basic and least costly asphalt roofing option for slopped residential roofs. A typical 3-tab asphalt roof will last anywhere from 10 to 20 years, depending on the environment and slope of the roof.
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Method of Roof Inspection: Viewed with camera from ground
Roof Style: Gable
Flashings: Inspected
Approximate Age of Roof Covering: 10-20 Years
Tune up repairs are recommended to prolong the reliable and useful service life of this roof. This is an older roof, but there appears to be useful remaining service life. The roofing material on this building is done in a three tab composition shingle. These shingles are often rated as 20 year shingles, though I find in practice, as a roof assembly, 15-18 years is more realistic depending on the quality of the installation, the amount of exposure and the pitch of the roof. The tiles are beginning to deteriorate at the edges and where the tiles are bent at roof direction changes, they have cracked and require replacement. Hire a licensed roofing contractor to further evaluate and repair this roof to ensure reliable roof performance.
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Gutters
Type: Aluminum
ATTIC
Access
Access Method: No access. Vaulted Ceiling Everywhere
Note that this house has a vaulted ceiling configuration - there is no attic space and no access to inspect roof framing, thermal barriers or fans exhaust ductwork in the vaulted parts of the house.
Roof Framing and Sheathing
Rafters: Not visible
Sheathing: Not visible
Attic Insulation
Insulation Type: Unknown
Attic Ventilation
Type: Soffit vents, Roof Vents with Turbine
All roof cavities are required to have ventilation. Although there are variations depending on ventilation types, the general default standard is 1 sq. ft of ventilation to 150 sq. ft. (1:150) of the attic area and ideally, this comes from at least 60% lower roof cavity ventilation and 40% upper or alternatively 1:300 where 50% to 80% of the required ventilation is located in the upper portion of the attic.
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Turbine vents must remain vertical to perform correctly. If they begin to tip, they will likely begin to squeak which is disturbing, but more importantly they will eventually stop spinning as the bearings become damaged. When this occurs, water can easily penetrate the attic space. Monitor attic turbines on a regularly basis to ensure they are freely, and quietly spinning.
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ELECTRICAL
Electric Service
Service Entrance/Drop: Below Ground
Main Panel
Electrical Shutoff
Main Electric Panel Location: Basement
This shows the the main electrical panel
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Main Panel Amperage: 200 amps
Type: Breakers
Panel Manufacturer: Federal Pioneer Electric
Approximate Panel Age: 10-20 years
Federal Pioneer Electric Stab Lok brand electric panels were noted (Federal Pacific in the USA). This is an obsolete brand of panel using Stab-Lok breakers with a reputation for malfunctioning . Some electricians and many home owners will claim that the panel has, "worked fine to date," but this is anecdotal evidence. Stab-Lok electric breakers are at greater risk of electrical fire and statistically less safe than any new electric panel. See the test results and recalls of these breakers in the images below.
Given that the panel and breakers appear to be in excellent condition, I have classified this observation as "Due Diligence" rather than "Hazard"
References:
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Sub Panel
Sub Panel Location: Garage
These are general photos of the electrical subpanel
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Sub Panel Amperage: 100 amps
Sub Panel Manufacturer: Federal Pacific Electric
Branch Wiring
Wire Material: Copper
Wiring Type: Non-metallic sheathed cable
Outlets, Switches, Lights
Outlet Types: 3 Prong (grounded)
Limitations: Random Testing
Exterior receptacles located on the outside of the building (specifically on the covered west deck) should be GFCI protected and they are not weather protected to current standards. I recommend upgrading the exterior outlet covers to "while in use" styles including those that have older exterior covers.
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An unprotected light bulb in the 2nd floor knee wall storage is noted. This can be a hazard as the bulb can easily be broken while retrieving belongings and/or moving around. Also note that the fixture is not secured to the wall. I recommend replacing the light fixture or installing a bulb cage and securing the fixture.
A missing cover plate is noted on a basement electrical outlets which should be installed/replaced to protect all access to wiring.
PLUMBING
Water Meter
Not Applicable
Water Supply
Pipe Material: Plastic
Water Supply: Private well
Water Pressure: Average
Water for this home is supplied by a well system. Inspection of the well, water supply and water quality is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend hiring a well specialist to inspect and evaluate the well and well water. Well equipment: the pump and captive storage tank have limited service lives and often require updating on a 20-year schedule. There are other elements of a well system that should be evaluated as well, such as the well production, often tested in a draw down test, water quality and well depth. Below are diagrams showing the typical equipment and their operation. If adjusting the overall water pressure, do not exceed 75psi (70 psi preferred) and ensure that the pressure tank is at 2psi lower (when empty) than the cut-in pressure setting.
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Corrosion was noted at the main water shut off- this could eventually result in a leak or unreliable performance though no leakage was noted during inspection. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair.
Distribution Pipe
Supply Pipe Materials: PEX, Copper
This building has PEX tubing used for supply piping. Crimp ring connections on PEX pipe have very specific installation guidelines and most of these connections will not be visible at the time of inspection (just like any other type of pipe fitting). It is beyond the scope of this inspection to evaluate a significant number of these connections.. Any leaking noted at fittings should result in more careful inspection of all of the plumbing system by a licensed plumber that is experienced in the installation of these types of connections
Copper pipes have been in use residentially since approximately 1950.
Functional Flow: Average
Water Heater
System Type: Tank
These are general photos of the water heater
Manufacturer: John Wood
Size: 180-189 Litres
Year of Manufacture: 2005
Energy Source: Electricity
Pad: None Noted - Required
Drain Pan: Not Needed
Temperature Pressure Relief Value: Terminates Too High
The life expectancy of most electric water heaters is 10 to 15 years. This water heater is beyond its normal lifespan and could fail at any time. Be sure to monitor for any leaks, smells or low temperature and be sure to have it serviced annually to extend it's lifespan.
Install a foam pad below the water heater to prevent corrosion of the tank and to reduce heat loss to the cold concrete slab. Foam pads may be required for electric water heaters installed in contact with a concrete floor. They are recommended for gas water heater installed on concrete.
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An expansion tank is recommended for the water heater; these are required if the house has a closed plumbing system. Expansion tanks help reduce pressure on the plumbing system by creating a buffer or a place for water to expand into as water swells during thermal expansion. Installation of expansion or pressure tanks is modern installation practice and will be required if a pressure reducing valve has been installed on a public water supply. Consult with a qualified plumber to install.
The discharge tube for the water heater relief valve is installed too high off the ground. Discharge tubes should always terminate by pointing toward the ground to eliminate a scald hazard and should terminate between 6-inches and 12-inches off the ground, though specific requirements can vary by manufacturer and jurisdiction. Ideally, the discharge tube for a relief valve:
- Terminates to an exterior location or above a drain, though this is not always possible
- Slopes to drain to prevent water pooling inside the discharge tube
- Is not made from pipe with an inside diameter less than 3/4 on an inch
- Terminates to a visible location that can be monitored for leaks and discharges
- Does not have a threaded termination point which would prevent accidental capping of this important discharge
- Does not terminate into a drain pan
I recommend having this relief valve discharge tube further investigated and repaired as recommended by a licensed plumber.
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Water Temperature
Water Temp
Infrared imaging shows that the water at the faucet is 54.7 C (130.4 F) which may be a scalding hazard. To prevent scalding, standards recommend indoor hot water temperatures do not exceed 49 C (120 F). There is some evidence that hot water temperatures in the tank water heater should be greater than 54.5 C (130 F) to prevent Legionaries' disease from developing. A tempering valve at the tank allows the tank temperature to be set as high as 60 C (140 F) to ensure all bacteria is neutralized while providing 49 C (120 F) temperature at the faucets.
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Water Treatment
Water SoftenerSediment Filter
Water treatment equipment is out of scope for this inspection. I recommend servicing of this equipment as necessary and testing the water as required by a licensed plumber and/or water treatment specialist.
The water softeners installed is actually an electromagnetic water softener which requires no salt and works by electronically affecting calcium and magnesium. While this system may be working as advertised in this particular installation, this is an unproven whole home softening system. I recommend having a water quality test performed done by a specialist to ensure the water is being softened as expected. This is usually a free service, and should not be confused with testing for potable (safe) water which is also a free service provided by the Ontario Health Units.
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Sediment filters are used to remove fine particles from well water. These are important filters to have upstream of a UV light to ensure the UV light is killing all bacteria. The sediment filter is usually changed at approx. 3-6 months or when brown.
No water bacteria treatment is noted (sediment filter and UV light). Water supply is from a private well. It is a good idea to add a UV light filter to ensure harmful bacteria is removed. Be sure to have the water tested at any Health Unit in Ontario at every change of season.
Exterior Faucet (Hose Bib)
Style: Frost-free
The hose faucet noted is a "frost free" type which are (arguably) more resistant to bursting in cold weather. These faucets may not need to be turned off on the inside but be sure to disconnect any attached hose before winter freeze otherwise the benefit of this style of faucet may be eliminated as the hose can trap water in the faucet.
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Waste
Discharge Type: Septic System - Seller
Waste and Vent Pipe Materials: ABS plastic
Location of Sewer Cleanout: Basement
This shows the location of the sewer cleanout found during inspection - basement. 📸
This property is on a private on-site septic system. These are specialty systems and are excluded from this inspection. Comments in this report related to this system are made as a courtesy only and are not meant to be a substitute for a full evaluation by a qualified specialist. Generally, septic tanks should be pumped and inspected every 3 years. Depending on the type of system and municipal regulations, inspection and maintenance may be required more frequently, often annually. I recommend:
- Disclosing any information about this system's maintenance and repair history
- Provide any documentation available for this system
- Provide inspection and maintenance requirements for this system
- Hire a qualified specialist to evaluate, perform maintenance and make repairs as needed
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Sump Pumps and Drains
Sump Pump:None noted
Floor Drain:None noted
A sump pit is in place however there is no pump or drainage piping installed. There is some minimal water at the bottom of the pit however this may be from furnace condensate as this pit is used to discharge the condensate. Given that there are no indications of moisture or water problems in the basement, it is likely that this pit was originally installed in the event ground water was present, however time seems to have proven that no ground water penetration occurs, and therefore no sump pump is required. Monitor this for any changes over time.
HVAC
Heating
Thermostat Location: Hallway
Primary Heating Method: Propane forced air furnace
This shows the heating equipment
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Energy Source: Propane
Manufacturer: ICP (International Comfort Products)
Efficiency: High
All high-efficiency furnaces are of condensing type and utilize a second heat exchanger to capture the extra heat from the condensed exhaust gases. The secondary heat exchanger pre-heats the incoming cool air, which significantly reduces fuel consumption.
Filter Size: 16 X 24 X 1''
Filter State: Clean
This is the air filter
Capacity: 70-80,000 btu's
Year of Manufacture: 2007
This house has a propane forced air furnace. A critical component to all combustion equipment is the heat exchanger. This is the welded clam-shell piece of metal inside the furnace that contains the products of combustion so that moisture, carbon monoxide and other products of combustion do not mix with interior air and get safely vented to the exterior. Heat exchangers on modern furnaces have an average life expectancy of 15-20 years. Unfortunately, heat exchangers are concealed inside of heating equipment; they are not visible and specifically excluded from a home inspection.
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You can expect a gas furnace to last anywhere between 15 and 30 years, with many furnaces being replaced around the 17-year mark. Be sure to regularly schedule annual maintenance and consider budgeting for replacement in the coming years.
Heating Exhaust
Inspected
AC/Heat Pump
None Noted
Ventilation
Whole Home Ventilation: None Noted, HRV
Here is some information about a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) A few facts:
- New homes built since 1977 are more airtight, which helps save energy but can make the inside air stale.
- An HRV is a controlled ventilation system that helps reduce high humidity, pollutants and odours by replacing stale air with fresh warm air.
- The ideal relative humidity for health and comfort is somewhere between 30-50% humidity which is a compromised range to reduce mold (at the low end) and static electricity (at the high end), and improve human comfort (in the middle).
- I advise that (except in specific applications) automatic humidifiers, dehumidifiers and HRV systems are set to 40% humidity levels year round, in winter, set the humidistat just low enough to prevent condensation on windows. Do not shut off or unplug your HRV. This can result in high humidity levels, which can lead to mould and mildew growth and unhealthy living conditions.
- HRV's generally last around 10-15 years before replacement may be necessary
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Ventilation for an HRV unit has been roughed in, including controls in some locations in the home.
Propane Storage
Storage Type: Above ground tank
Propane Tank Size: 2x 545 Litres
Propane Tank Location: South side of house
Propane Shutoff Location: At tank
The propane tank(s) are likely leased with a small annual cost.
Oil Storage
None Noted
Fuel Piping
Inspected
Distribution
Heat Source in Each Room: Incomplete
Distribution Method: Forced Air / Ducts
Clean Ducts
The heating ductwork is dirty and needs to be cleaned to improve indoor air quality and efficiency of the heating system. It is a good idea that ductwork is professionally cleaned whenever occupancy changes..
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Furnace duct work heating is not installed on the 2nd floor. The loft bedroom gets its heat by convective action from the 1st floor, and the ensuite bathroom has electric in-floor heating.
Solid Fuel Fireplaces
Fireplace Types: Wood stove
A solid fuel fireplace is noted. Inspection or WETT certification of the fireplace and/or chimney is not in the scope of this home inspection. Any comments or photos provided are for your awareness only and should not be construed as advice or professional certification.
A WETT inspection is recommended and may be required by your lender and/or insurance company before use of the wood stove. An annual inspection and cleaning of all chimneys, fireplaces, solid fuel-burning appliances, and vents is also recommend. This inspection includes, not only cleaning the interior of the chimney pipe, but also the use of specialized tools and testing procedures such as video cameras, etc. to thoroughly evaluate the serviceability of the entire flue lining and fireplace/chimney system. If a chimney cleaning has not been performed over the past 12 months, such an inspection is recommended before the home changes ownership---for fire safety reasons. Implement any repairs as recommended.
Additional Heat Sources
Description: Radiant Floor - Include IR Images
Thermal images show the radiant floor pads or electric floor heaters, working during inspection.
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Optional Extras
Central Vacuum
The central vacuum system was not tested during inspection. These systems are beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend disclosing to a home buyer any additional information:
- Is this system functioning?
- Are there recommended maintenance or servicing tips for keeping the system clean and functioning?
- Some of these system have a filter that requires cleaning and others require replacing a bag.
Documents
Contractors and Contacts
Contact List
Many of these contractors I have contracted either personally to me and/or in business however I have no affiliation with any, nor do I receive any compensation for their entry on this list or guarantee their work. This list is provided for your convenience only
ASBESTOS/MOLD TESTING & ABATEMENT
Mold Buster | Belleville, Kingston | (888) 605-0816 | https://www.bustmold.com/
First Response | Ottawa, Kingston | (613) 702-6701 | https://www.firstresponsecleaning.ca/
Paracel Laboraties | Ottawa, Kingston | (800) 749-1947 | https://www.paracellabs.com/home
ELECTRICAL
Terry Shortt Electrical Services |Trenton | (613) 394-6359 | http://www.shorttelectric.ca/
Roberts Electric Ltd | Cobourg | (905) 372-4421 | http://www.bgrobertselectric.ca/
Bertoia Electric | Kingston | (613) 634-9450| https://www.bertoiaelectric.com/
Briden Electrical Services | Belleville| (613) 922-0743 | https://bridenelectric.ca/
ENGINEERING / FOUNDATION REPAIR
Elliot Tee | Napanee | (613) 483-4125
Three Hills Engineering |Belleville | (613) 902-0036 | http://www.threehillsengineering.com/
LANDSCAPING
The Tree Medic | Cobourg | (905) 396-6632 | http://www.thetreemedic.ca/
MASONRY
Holmes Custom Masonry | Trenton | (613) 920-1616 | https://www.holmescustommasonry.com/
RENOVATION, CARPENTRY AND PAINT
Bread & Hammer | Belleville | (613) 214-9040 | https://www.breadandhammer.com/
Alair | Belleville | (613) 707-1793 | https://www.alairhomes.ca/belleville/home-renovations/
Slabinski Carpentry | Cobourg | (905) 269-7307 | https://www.facebook.com/slabinskicarpentry/
ROOFING
Robert Miller Construction (Amish) | Sterling | Call John Davies (613) 395-5546
Advanced Roofing | Belleville | (613) 243-1083 | http://advancedroofingquinte.com/
Salama roofing inc. | Trenton | (647) 528-0361 | https://salamaroofinginc.business.site/
Moffatt Bros. Roofing Ltd. | Cobourg | (905) 373-0071 | https://moffattbrosroofing.ca/
WATER (WELL, SEPTIC, PLUMBING)
Storing Septic (septic inspection only) | Tamworth | (613) 379-2192
MacLellan Water Treatment and Pumps (well inspection only) | Odessa | (613) 777-9121 | https://www.mwater.ca/
QLogic Water Solutions (well & water inspection) | Trenton | (613) 922-7474 | https://qlogicwatersolutions.com/
A1 Plumbing Services (well & septic inspection) | Frankford | (613) 398-0599 | https://a1plumbingquinte.com/
D.Koets Plumbing & Heating (plumbing only) | Brighton | (613) 392-9820 | https://www.koetsplumbing.com/
Reids Plumbing (plumbing only) | Belleville | (613) 968-9344 | https://reids-plumbing-heating-and-air-conditioning.business.site/
Stadtke Plumbing & Heating Ltd. (plumbing only) | Cobourg | (905) 377-9214 | http://www.stadtkeplumbingheating.com/
WATERPROOFING/BASEMENT LEAK
Upper Canada Water Proofing | Quinte West | (613) 392-1485 | https://www.uppercanadawaterproofing.ca/
Signed Contracts
Walker Home Inspection
(613) 813-9713
https://walkerhomeinspection.ca
Inspector: Steven Walker
steven@walkerhomeinspection.ca
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