🚩DESCRIPTION--SOME SAFETY ASPECTS

• SETTING THE STAGE::

  RECALLS: Whether it is heating & cooling equipment, or kitchen & laundry appliances, there will be data plates recorded in this report. I recommend, for safety, you take a few minutes and use that data plate information to see if there have been any recalls of such appliances. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to do any kind of recall check. Most recalls can be found on the Consumer Products Safety Commission website and they also have a recall notices program that you can sign up for that will help keep you up to date on any future recalls of your appliances. CPSC Recalls.

  🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence

• SETTING THE STAGE::

  GENERAL RECOMMENDATIONS: When repairs are made on the home, I recommend that I be called back to verify that corrections have been satisfactorily made. A minimum assessment of 💲250.00 will be charged for each Work Order Evaluation Inspection that is requested and performed. Additional charges will accrue for anything in writing, beyond an email response, and for evaluations at more than 20 miles travel time--these costs to be agreed upon at the time of the request for further evaluation. REMEDIAL WORK – For any element or condition requiring attention, quotes should be obtained prior to closing from qualified specialists or contractors to determine actual repair/replacement costs. Any cost estimates provided, whether oral or written, represent only an approximation of possible costs. Also, any cost estimates do not reflect all possible remedial needs or costs for the property; latent concerns or consequential damage may exist. If the need for remedial work develops or is uncovered after the inspection, contact Charles Buell Inspections, Inc. to arrange an inspection to assess conditions prior to performing any repairs.

  • IF THERE ARE ITEMS WITHIN THIS REPORT THAT REQUIRE RE-INSPECTION, YOU ARE ENCOURAGED TO HAVE ME COMMUNICATE DIRECTLY WITH THOSE HIRED TO MAKE THE CORRECTIONS TO ENSURE THAT REPAIRS ARE PROPERLY MADE AND THE RECOMMENDATIONS ARE UNDERSTOOD.
  • Any suggestions of how something might be corrected is done as a courtesy and is based on my experience. It should not be construed to mean these suggestions are the only way to make repairs, the best way to make repairs, or even the wholly correct way to make repairs. Other factors not seen at the time of inspection can result in other requirements etc. The qualified parties hired to make the repairs should be relied upon for their solutions as they will be the ones liable for them and should be in the best position to determine the best course of action.

  There are many things that can be done to improve safety and living conditions within any home. While many of these issues come to light in the course of the Standard Home Inspection there are likely to be other things that can be done to improve the home. Additional information can be found at: Center for Healthy Living

  🔍 Due Diligence

• SETTING THE STAGE::

  Inspection/testing of the electrical system can be very difficult. It should be anticipated that not all defects will be discovered and that some defects may actually not be defects at all. Tools used to verify proper wiring and function can vary wildly in reliability/consistency. The kinds of tools used to confidently analyze the system and its function cannot typically be done in the context of a Standard Home Inspection. I look for indications of issues, based on the age of the home, types of wiring systems used etc, as well as personal experience and by testing with a variety of tools. Issues identified, will be further discussed with recommendations in the electrical section below.

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁‍🗨 Monitor (ongoing) 🔍 Due Diligence

• SETTING THE STAGE::

  📝:During the inspection, I am looking for obvious, and not so obvious, clues as to problems with components or systems. At times, a repair can be as expensive as replacement and sometimes additional problems or damage are found when work begins. In fact, a defect in one system or component can cause a related problem at another location that was not apparent at the time of the inspection. It is recommended that you obtain -- at a minimum -- estimates from specialists for service/repairs or replacement/upgrades of any components or systems that may be potentially costly, dangerous, or complex to fix or replace--in a time frame consistent with proper due diligence.

  • If repairs are completed in an acceptable time frame, you will minimize chances of any unexpected surprises after closing. In performing one's due diligence, it is important the client not only follow through on the recommendations I make in this report but any other concerns that may arise when called for repairs.
  • This report should never be taken as an end in itself, but merely part of the ""process"" of due diligence. It is in no way meant to interfere with the decisions you must make in to move forward with the transaction, it is merely what I consider best advice.
  • While on-site, all professional repair persons should be asked to further evaluate the condition of the system, structural components, or device that he or she is working on. Often one problem will lead to another related issue which can require further repairs or replacement. If remodeling is done, where walls and ceilings are opened, wallpaper removed, homeowners may find some concealed issues that will also have to be addressed during the remodel. Because the home inspector is a generalist, this policy further protects the client.

  🔍 Due Diligence

• SETTING THE STAGE::

  All construction work performed under these specifications must meet standard, good construction practices as to quality of workmanship and materials. Pest control measures must be performed by state licensed applicators in conformance with all current federal, state and local laws. A fee of 💲250.00 will be charged for each Work Order Evaluation Inspection or consultation that I am requested to do. Additional charges will accrue for anything in writing beyond an email response and for evaluations at more than 20 miles travel-- these costs to be agreed upon at the time of the request.

  📝 Informational note

• ⛺GROUNDS:

  Proper function of tight-line drains (drains that the downspouts connect to) is beyond the scope of this inspection.  I recommend that proper function be both determined and maintained.  If drains are present and accessible, one method to verify function is to run a hose into them for a prolonged time and see whether water backs up out of the drain.  While some can be inspected by remote camera, most sewer scoping companies do not scope these drains.

  CORRUGATED DRAINS:

  • Corrugated drain pipe has been used for at least some of the sub-surface roof water drains. This product is prone to failure as it is susceptible to crushing and clogging. Monitor these drains after heavy rains and keep your gutters clean to prolong the service life of this pipe. Clogged and overflowing pipes would indicate a need for replacement.

  🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁‍🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence

• ⛺GROUNDS:

  All vegetation should be routinely maintained and not allowed to contact the home siding and other components. This is considered routine maintenance that any home owner should be vigilant about to prevent physical damage to the building, lower the risk of water intrusion to the building lower the risk of vermin entering the home and to lower the risk of wood destroying organisms affecting the home.

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁‍🗨 Monitor (ongoing) 🔍 Due Diligence

• 🚘GARAGE:
  

  The Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act of 1990 mandated that automatic residential garage door operators manufactured on or after January 1, 1991 conform to the entrapment protection requirements (reversing mechanisms) of the 1988 version of UL 325. You should be able to lift the door smoothly and with little resistance. It should stay open around three or four feet above the floor. If it does not, it is out of adjustment. Have it adjusted by a qualified service person. Be aware the overhead door security mechanism is extremely vulnerable to to being tampered with by unauthorized persons. There are ways to protect against this tampering. There are guards that can be installed and even a simple zip tie around the manual release can help. Transparent glass in the door also makes unauthorized entry easier and covering them or having them replaced with translucent glass can help.

  1. Garage Shield
  2. How to get in your garage in 7 seconds

  ---------------------------------------------------

  Manufacturers installation instructions require that garage door opener buttons be located more than 60" above the floor to prevent use by small children.

  IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS (UL & CPSC)

  WARNING-To reduce the risk of severe injury or death:

  1. READ AND FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS.
  2. NEVER LET CHILDREN OPERATE OR PLAY WITH THE DOOR CONTROLS. Keep remote control away from children.
  3. Always keep the moving door in sight and away from people, pets and objects until it is completely closed. NO ONE SHOULD CROSS THE PATH OF A MOVING DOOR.
  4. TEST THE DOOR OPERATOR MONTHLY. The garage door MUST reverse on contact with a 1-1/2 inch high object (or a piece of two-by-four lumber laid flat) on the floor. If the door doesn't stop and reverse after contact with the object, disconnect the operator and use the door manually until the operator is replaced or repaired by a qualified technician.
  5. When possible. USE THE EMERGENCY RELEASE ONLY WHEN THE DOOR IS CLOSED. Use caution when using this release with the door open. Weak or broken springs are capable of increasing the rate of door closure and increasing the risk of severe injury or death.
  6. KEEP GARAGE DOORS PROPERLY BALANCED. See owner's manual. An improperly balanced door increases the risk of severe injury or death. Have a qualified service person make repairs to cables, spring assemblies and other hardware.

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁‍🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note

  

  This is from Genie, but most have similar instructions

  

  This is from Genie, but most have similar instructions

• 🚪EXTERIOR DOORS:

  The "Security" of any home is never absolute. At the time of inspection I assess the "basic functionality" of door and window locking mechanisms. No assessment of the individual or overall effectiveness of security is implied. Glass, frames, locks and other elements can be prone to "tampering" and are "limiting factors" of locking mechanisms/systems. All security devices and systems must be balanced against the ease of escape in the event of emergency. Concerns about the home's overall security system should be addressed by a licensed home security company. This information will not be repeated for other exterior doors but does apply to them as well.

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (annual) 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note

• 🪟 WINDOWS:

  Window coverings and blinds are not inspected for function at the time of inspection except in the process of testing windows for function. I recommend that you test these blinds as desired.

  Draw strings and slatted type coverings can be a strangulation hazard for small children. I recommend considering some of the newer types of blinds that are less dangerous to small children. For more information regarding the safety hazards of blinds, see the Consumer Product Safety Commission website at: Window Blind Safety Information

  1.  Move all cribs, beds, furniture and toys away from windows and window cords, preferably to another wall.
  2. Keep all window cords out of the reach of children. Make sure that tasseled pull cords are short, and that continuous-loop cords are permanently anchored to the floor or wall.
  3. To prevent inner-cord hazards, lock cords into position when lowering horizontal coverings or shades.
  4. Repair window coverings, corded shades and draperies manufactured before 2001 with retrofit cord-repair devices, or replace them with today's safer products.
  5. Consider installing cordless window coverings in children's bedrooms and play areas.

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁‍🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence

• 🚿PLUMBING:

  Outside faucets go by many names: sill-cocks, hose bibbs, bibcock, wall hydrants etc. I will refer to them as "outside faucets." The outside faucets listed below may not include all the faucets present on the property. Evaluation of other faucets located should be further evaluated in the context of other plumbing work done at the building. Outside faucets are typically tested as to basic function (turn off and on) and tested under back pressure with a pressure gauge. Above Information not repeated in relation to other outside faucets.

  🔧 Maintenance (annual) 👁‍🗨 Monitor during use 🔍 Due Diligence

• 🚿PLUMBING:

  Stating the home is on a public sewage system is based on listing information, other public resources and lack of obvious observable indications of an on site sewage disposal system. It is possible that I may not be able to determine which type of disposal system is present with 100% certainty. It is it is not likely, sufficient water will be used during the course of the inspection that would duplicate actual use of the drainage systems of the home under all scenarios. Plugged drains are quite common in homes and the interior condition of drains can not typically be determined or predicted. I recommend you utilize all resources available to verify the type of system, to your satisfaction.

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁‍🗨 Monitor (ongoing) 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note

• 🚿PLUMBING:

  Regardless what is recorded and documented below, determining the types of plumbing drain pipes in the building can only be determined fully by taking walls apart, something not done in a Standard Home Inspection. Types of materials can usually be determined by what is visible in exposed areas. Any conclusions made should NOT be seen as absolute and merely the best opinion of the inspector. There may also be a mix of different kinds of materials.

  I test plumbing fixtures throughout the home by operating stoppers or flushing mechanisms and observe the flow of water out of the fixture after it is filled. I make no determination as to whether drainage is, or will be, sufficient. This approach is true of all points of water use throughout the home and will not be repeated elsewhere except as pertains to any issues with those sinks, tubs, showers toilets etc. Floor drains are typically not tested, and verification of their function is advised.

  OLDER DRAINS:

  • Proper function and life expectancy of the main sewer drains is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend that if there are concerns about the function of the main sewer drain that it be evaluated by a licensed plumber with a Spectra-Scope. It is not likely in the course of the standard home inspection that large enough quantities of water will be drained to determine the adequacy of the drains. Proper function of house drain to the city sewer is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend that proper function be both determined and maintained. The best method to verify function is to have them inspected with a remote camera device.

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁‍🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence

• 🚿PLUMBING:

  Assurances are warranted that floor drains are functional. I do not test them but I do recommend that they be tested for function by building owner/handy-person running a hose in them for a prolonged time or having them professionally scoped by a qualified plumber. The traps in these drains sometimes dry-out allowing sewer gases and vermin into the home. As a part of routine maintenance I recommend making sure drain trap has water in it and is properly covered.

  TRAP PRIMERS:

  • Trap primers are necessary to keep water in the trap as over time they can dry-out and allow sewer gases to enter the building.
  • There are also trap seal products for drains without trap primers.

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁‍🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence

• 🚿PLUMBING:

  A pressure relief valve (PRV) is required on all water heaters to discharge any excessive pressure within the unit. A discharge pipe should be attached to the valve and directed to a safe location away from body contact. Newer installations must be directed to the building exterior or to an approved indoor drain receptor. Most manufacturers suggest that homeowners test these valve at least once a year by lifting the lever to ensure the valve discharges properly. The picture to the right shows a typical PRV. They may also be found on the side of the heater on some models. I do not test these valves due to the possibility that they may leak after testing. A leaking or inoperative PRV should be replaced immediately by a licensed plumber.

  Most codes defer to manufacturer instructions and I favor those recommendations. The yellow tag on the valve states clearly the termination should be 6" above the floor which is more consistent with the UPC code requirements of between 6" and 24" of the floor. The picture below shows a typical PR Valve. I do not test these valves due to the possibility that they may leak after testing. A leaking or inoperative PR Valve should be replaced immediately by a licensed plumber.

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁‍🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note

  

  
• 🚿PLUMBING:

  Yard/Lawn irrigation systems are not included in a Standard Home Inspection. These systems can be inspected at an additional cost, but are otherwise excluded. Typically I do check to make sure back-blow valves are in place and will note implications of observed defects in relation to components that are covered by this inspection. For more information about back-flow valves see: Backflow Valve Information, Backflow Preventers. I recommend obtaining all pertinent information about operation and maintenance of the lawn irrigation system.

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁‍🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note

• ⚡ELECTRICAL:

  🛑 GENERAL ELECTRICAL SAFETY WARNING: Even if the electricity has been turned off at the main disconnect, sections of the electrical system prior to the main breaker are still energized and can be lethal if contacted. I recommend that all changes/corrections made to the electrical system be performed by a licensed electrical contractor.

  UNDERGROUND SERVICE:

  • The electrical service is the set of wires that run from the street or power pole to the main breaker panel or fuse box. In this building the service runs underground. Evaluation of the underground portion of these systems is limited to the portions that show above ground.

  🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence

• ⚡ELECTRICAL:

  Voltage surges can be a costly example of the power interference that occurs in Buildings every day. This momentary rise in voltage can start inside or outside a Building and damage sensitive electronic equipment such as computer, Building entertainment center, treadmills, and all the other --often expensive -- equipment found in most Buildings today.

  Conventional surge protectors in the home cannot protect against large surges from lightning and it is still considered best practice to unplug expensive appliances during a lightning storm.

  Whole Building surge arresters should be installed at the Building's electrical service panel by professional, licensed electrical contractors. There are dozens of different makes, models and styles of surge protectors on the market, which vary greatly in both price and quality. The type and size of the service panel, how full the panel is, as well as the investment in appliances and electronic devices that need to be protected all play a role in determining which surge protector should be installed. Your service professional, after inspecting the Building and service panel, will make the recommendation as to the appropriate product to be installed.

  🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence

• ⚡ELECTRICAL:

  Throughout the home there are missing/not functional light bulbs. When the bulbs are installed/replaced, if the fixture still does not function, further evaluation/repairs by a licensed electrical contractor is recommended.

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁‍🗨 Monitor monthly ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence

• ⚡ELECTRICAL:

  Currently all 120-volt, single phase, 15- and 20-ampere branch circuits supplying outlets installed in dwelling unit family rooms, dining rooms, kitchens, laundries, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, or similar rooms or areas are required to be AFCI protected per current standards.  The home appeared to be wired to current requirements, however not every outlet was checked.

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁‍🗨 Monitor monthly ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence

• ⚡ELECTRICAL:

  Currently all 125-volt & 250-volt, single-phase, 15 and 20-ampere receptacles installed in the following locations shall have ground-fault circuit interrupter protection: bathrooms, garages, detached non-habitable buildings, outdoors, crawl spaces, unfinished or finished basements, kitchen countertop receptacles, within 6 feet of all sinks, boathouses, within 6 feet of a tub or shower, laundry areas, dishwasher branch circuit, crawl space lighting outlets. Some GFCI protection was noted

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁‍🗨 Monitor monthly ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence

• ⚡ELECTRICAL:

  At the time of inspection Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors are not tested. I recommend that prior to move-in, that all Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors be tested and have their batteries replaced. It is recommended that Carbon Monoxide detectors that are older than 10 years should be replaced by a licensed electrical contractor if they are hard-wired; and replaced by the building owner/handy-person if they are battery operated. These devices are currently required, according to Washington State Law to be maintained by the tenant/homeowner according to the manufacturer's recommendations/instructions and are required in all homes.

  1. For optimum safety, Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors are required in the immediate vicinity of bedrooms and on each floor level of the home and inside of any sleeping room if there is a gas appliance in the room. "Immediate vicinity" is not defined but most manufacturers recommend they be installed between 5 and 20 feet of sleeping rooms. Alarm/detectors must be maintained free of dust and debris which can interfere with operation. They should be installed per manufacturer's instructions . While it is primarily fuel burning appliances the produce carbon monoxide, CO is also produced from electric appliances like toasters and ranges (especially ovens on self clean cycle).
  2. Please be aware that residential Carbon Monoxide detectors are cumulative and are designed to not sound with low levels of carbon monoxide. Some people are more susceptible than others to low levels of carbon monoxide and I consider it prudent to familiarize yourself with the symptoms/warning signs of Carbon Monoxide. Detectors that meet the UL-2034 requirements for detectors installed in residential construction are not allowed to sound at continuous CO levels up to 30 ppm, 70 ppm for 4 hours, 150 ppm for up to 50 minutes and 400 ppm for up to 15 minutes. CARBON MONOXIDE
  3. A good low level, UL-2034, 10 year alarm is made by Defender.
  4. Combination type alarms can be problematic even while meeting "legal requirements" for installation. Carbon Monoxide detectors in conjunction with Ionization type smoke detectors is problematic due to the poor ion technology (see links under smoke alarms previous to this section). The devices also can have different life spans. For best protection, combination type alarms should not be used, even though this is a standard recommendation of manufacturers. The International Association of Fire Fighters (IAFF) specifically recommends against installing combination alarms. Combination type alarms are required to be UL-217 and UL-2034 listed. 

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁‍🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence

• ⚡ELECTRICAL:

  At the time of inspection smoke alarms are not tested. I recommend that prior to move-in, that all smoke alarms be tested according to manufacturer's recommendations and that their batteries be replaced. It is recommended that smoke alarms that are older than 5-7 years should be replaced by a licensed electrical contractor if they are hard-wired; and replaced by the building owner/handy-person if they are battery operated.

  1. For optimum safety, hard-wired smoke alarms with backup batteries are recommended. At least one smoke alarm should be installed on each floor of the building. Alarms must be maintained free of dust and debris which can interfere with operation.
  2. Smoke alarm technology is evolving and current wisdom is recommending that only Photoelectric smoke alarms be installed in the building due to the nuisance tripping and other human factors involved with misuse and maintenance associated with Ionization type smoke alarms. It is not possible in the context of the building inspection to determine why types of alarms are installed in the building. You are encouraged to install and maintain any type of alarm in the building and you are encouraged to upgrade alarms to photoelectric type alarms. See the following link for a discussion of Ionization vs. Photoelectric Alarms: Photo-Electric Smoke Alarms and Silent Alarms; Deadly Differences.
  3. After June 30, 2021 all smoke alarms will be required to meet the 9th (the 8th was never adopted) edition of UL 217. These alarms are designed to reduce issues with previous versions and will be more responsive to multiple kinds of fire scenarios as well as address nuisance tripping issues of previous versions.
  4. In anticipation of the adoption of the 8th edition of UL 217, Kidde produced a dual sensor alarm that is purported to meet those standards, but given those standards were never adopted, they may or may not be an improvement over just stand alone photo-electric type alarms.

  SMOKE ALARM Maintenance

  1. Clean regularly. Dust and debris will interfere with normal operation.
  2. Replace batteries at least once a year---or better yet install 10-yr type batteries.
  3. Schedule regular maintenance and tests. The Consumer Products Safety Commission recommends checking these alarms every Spring & Fall time change. Tests should be performed according to manufacturer's instructions.
  4. It is not usually possible in the context of a building inspection to determine whether smoke alarms are Ionization type or photoelectric type.
  5. Installation Recommendations from the National Fire Protection Association

  🛑 SAFETY 👁‍🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence

• 🔥HEATING / ❄️COOLING:

  Ductwork Interiors: It is typically not possible to evaluate the interior of ductwork as to condition or the presence of detrimental materials or other conditions. Hidden conditions can include evidence of rodent and/or other vermin activity, dust/debris, water, vegetation, tobacco smoke etc. Is Duct Cleaning Really Necessary? Modern standards call for ductwork in unconditioned spaces to be insulated and all connections sealed with mastic or approved tapes. Sections are required to be properly mechanically fastened (typically with screws, but some are self locking type). Ducts are also required to meet air leakage test requirements. Much of this cannot be determined in the course of a home inspection. Sealing ductwork is one of the most cost effective energy improvements one can do to a home. In this home, the ducwork is installed between the floor levels of the home making the system potentially more efficient than systems that run ductwork in crawl spaces and attics.

  SUSPECTED ASBESTOS:

  • For further information contact the EPA and Puget Sound Clean Air Commission links listed below: EPA Asbestos Information
  • Puget Sound Clean Air, Asbestos Information

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁‍🗨 Monitor annually 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence

• 🖼️INTERIORS:

  Homes constructed prior to 1978 most likely contain paints with some lead. These paints are not considered a problem as long as the paint does not become "friable" or air-borne. Keeping walls and woodwork well painted can minimize exposure to the lead paints. It is recommended that old painted wood be removed and properly disposed of as opposed to sanding and stripping of the woodwork. For additional information contact the EPA at: Lead Information

  I can have the home tested for lead based paints for an additional fee. Regardless the date, there is no guarantee houses after this date do not have lead.

  LEAD TESTING PROTOCOLS:

  • As of April 22, 2010, new Lead Safety protocols became effective, and any work done on houses built prior to 1978 are required to have paint tested for the presence of lead whenever remodeling or painting that would result in the paint becoming airborne. Testing and removal of lead based paint must meet strict abatement protocols and work must be performed by qualified persons with Lead Abatement certification and training. There are procedures to allow for homeowners to perform this work themselves but they too must follow the safety guidelines. For additional information see the link to the EPA's website: LEAD Safety Protocols

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence

• 🖼️INTERIORS:

  Asbestos products were commonly used in buildings until around 1986 (give or take a few years) and their presence should be assumed in homes prior to that time period. Common building materials that sometimes contain asbestos are "popcorn" textured ceilings, acoustic tiles, linoleum or vinyl (which might have another surface them), siding, vermiculite insulation, heat duct insulation/tape, heating pipe insulation and paints. Asbestos products are not usually considered to be a problem as long as they are in sound condition and not friable.  However, if remodeling is done, a strict safety protocol must be adhered to. There is no way to guarantee that ANY house is completely free of asbestos--even post 1986. 

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence

• 🧺Laundry:

  Dryer exhaust ducts should be independent of all other systems, should convey the moisture to the outdoors, should terminate on the outside of the building in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions and should be equipped with a back-draft damper. 

  1. Exhaust ducts (from the Laundry Room wall to the point of termination at the exterior) should be constructed of rigid metal ducts, having smooth interior surfaces with joints running in the direction of air flow. Screens should not be installed at the duct termination. Exhaust ducts should not be connected with sheet-metal screws or any means which extend into the duct more than 1/8". (Screens and screws can trap lint.)
  2.  Every dryer should have a screen filter to help keep dryer lint from entering the vent pipe itself. This filter must be maintained clean at all times and clogging this screen will result in increased drying time as well be a fire hazard. It is recommended the filter be cleaned between every use of the dryer. Some fabric softeners, sheet or liquid types, also clog these screens and air flow is reduced even when the screen "looks" clean. Avoiding these products is recommended and using more natural alternatives is a possibility.
  3. The short piece of duct that connects the dryer to the pipe that runs to the exterior of the building is called the dryer transition duct or connector. This connector is required to be UL-2158A listed and be constructed of smooth wall metal, corrugated metal, or foil types that are UL-2158A listed. Dryer manufacturers do not recommend foil type connectors, and most “common” foil type air connectors do not meet the required standard. Under extreme heat (during field testing) aluminum ducts of all kinds do poorly as connectors (even when UL-2158A listed), but the common foil types perform much worse and should never be used as transition duct. All of these types of transition ducts are extremely vulnerable to mechanical damage, which results in either leaks or restriction of air flow. There is one foil type dryer transition duct, that exceeds UL-2158A standard that holds up much better under extreme heat than either smooth wall metal or corrugated metal and is the one I recommend as best practice. DryerFlex™ type of transition connector typically cannot be purchased from your local big-box stores and is sold by duct cleaning and maintenance companies--or can be ordered on line.
  4. Regardless of code or UL listing, the National Fire Prevention Association (NFPA) recommends only rigid metal or corrugated metal transition duct be used. NFPA Dryer Safety Tips
  5. Given dryers are one of the most common causes of household fires, I consider it prudent to use the best transition duct possible and to keep the vent system and dryer itself as free of lint build-up as possible. 🛑 Annual professional cleaning is recommended 🛑.

  🛑 SAFETY 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁‍🗨 Monitor monthly 🔍 Due Diligence

• 🧺Laundry:

  Hoses, on washing machines are under constant pressure and are at risk of spontaneous rupture.  Some hose manufacturers even print expiration dates on the hoses as to when they should be replaced by. Consider upgrading these hoses to newer stainless steel jacketed type with flood-stop devices; monitor existing hoses frequently and replace them by their expiration date--replacement is typically recommended every 5 years regardless the type.

  🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance (as needed) 👁‍🗨 Monitor monthly 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence 📝 Informational note