The Scope and Purpose of a Home Inspection
Purchasing property involves risk
The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a structure by providing a professional opinion about the overall condition of the structure. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we don’t know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend that you attend the inspection.
A home inspection is not an insurance policy
This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Home warranties can be purchased separately from insuring firms that provide this service.
A home inspection is visual and not destructive
The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing which will limit the scope of the inspection.
This is not an inspection for code compliance
This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction process structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, and this limits the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are augmented at least every three years for all of the varying disciplines. Municipalities can choose to adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their own timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done.
This is just our opinion
Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are the opinions of the home inspector. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have some differing opinions. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals.
The scope of this inspection
This inspection will include the following systems: exterior, roof, structure, drainage, foundation, attic, interior, plumbing, electrical and heating. The evaluation will be based on limited observations that are primarily visual and non-invasive. This inspection and report are not intended to be technically exhaustive.
For more about the scope of a home inspection see: ASHI National Standards at http://www.homeinspector.org/Standards-of-Practice or Washington State Home Inspection Standards at http://app.leg.wa.gov/RCW/default.aspx?cite=18.280.030
Your expectations
The overall goal of a home inspection is to help ensure that your expectations are appropriate with the house you are proposing to buy. To this end we assist with discovery by showing and documenting observations during the home inspection. This should not be mistaken for a technically exhaustive inspection designed to uncover every defect with a building. Such inspections are available but they are generally cost-prohibitive to most homebuyers.
Your participation is requested
Your presence is requested during this inspection. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by a shared visual observation of the conditions of the property.
How to Read This Report
Getting the Information to You
This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a quick look at our "Summary Page” and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos and hot links to additional information.
The best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online, which will allow you to expand your learning about your house. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined – clicking on these will provide you with a link to additional information.
This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document.
Chapters and Sections
This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.
Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there may be no narrative observation comments in that section and it may simply say “tested,” or “inspected.”
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
- Major Concern:Repair items that may cost significant money to correct now or in the near future, or items that require immediate attention to prevent additional damage or eliminate safety hazards.
- Repair:Repair and maintenance items noted during inspection. Please note that some repair items can be expensive to correct such as re-finishing hardwood floors, but are considered simply repair items due to their cosmetic nature.
- Improve:Observations that are not necessarily defects, but which could be improved for safety, efficiency, or reliability reasons.
- Monitor:Items that should be watched to see if correction may be needed in the future.
- Due Diligence:Observation such as a buried oil tank that may require further investigation to determine the severity and / or urgency of repair.
- Future Project:A repair that may be deferred for some time but should be on the radar for repair or replacement in the near future.
- Efficiency:Denotes observations that are needed to make the home more energy efficient as well as to bring the home up to modern insulation standards. This category typically includes windows and insulation. Other items, such as lighting and appliances, are not inspected for their energy status.
- Completed:Items that were initially an issue but have since been completed.
- Note:Refers to aside information and /or any comments elaborating on descriptions of systems in the home or limitations to the home inspection.
- Description:Detailed description of various aspects of the property noted during the inspection.
Summary Page
The Summary Page is designed as a bulleted overview of all the observations noted during inspection. This helpful overview is not a substitution for reading the entire inspection report. The entire report must be read to get a complete understanding of this inspection report as the Summary Page does not include photographs or photo captions.
Summary
Major Concerns
- E-9 Electrical:
Reverse polarity was noted at the electrical receptacle. This is when the hot and the neutral have been wired backwards. This is a safety issue that should be corrected by a licensed electrician. Typical throughout structure. Recommend hiring licensed electrician to correct issues.
- E-13 Electrical:
None of the tested smoke alarms were working at the time of the inspection. Recommend replacing batteries and retesting.
- P-8 Plumbing:
Leaky waste plumbing was noted. This requires immediate repair. Hire a licensed plumbing contractor to further evaluate and repair these pipes.
- CS-5 Crawl Space:
The footing is not adequately bearing the post in the crawl space. This has weakened the structure of the home. Hire a licensed general contractor or structural engineer to further evaluate and repair. Post is set upon wood that is deteriorating due to moisture issues in crawlspace.
- CS-6 Crawl Space:
Waste line is leaking onto beam causing water damage to beam and possible weakening of footing and structural support.
- CS-8 Crawl Space:
Moderate water was noted in the crawl space. This condition may change seasonally, or with rain intensity. Moisture in crawl spaces can lead to interior molds, structural settlement and wood destroying organisms. Hire a drainage specialist or qualified contractor to further evaluate and correct this condition. Also see the Drainage section of this report for observations regarding exterior drainage repairs that are needed. Active water leak needs to be addressed immediately to avoid more damage to crawlspace.
Repairs
- G-4 Grounds:
All trees, branches and vegetation should be pruned at least six feet away from the building to eliminate a condition conducive to wood destroying organisms and a path for rodent entry - see east side trees especially. Typical throughout structure.
- G-5 Grounds:
Localized damage was noted to the fencing - see west side. Implement carpentry repairs as needed.
- EG-2 Exterior/Garage:
Siding is blistering due to close contact of vegetation.
- EG-3 Exterior/Garage:
Ghosting(build up of moisture) and damage under eaves due to water intrusion. Recommend cleaning ghosting
- EG-5 Exterior/Garage:
Eave coverings are in disrepair and are detaching from structure. Recommend reinstalling or removing. Typical throughout structure.
- EG-10 Exterior/Garage:
Pavers are loose and could present a tripping/falling hazard.
- EG-11 Exterior/Garage:
A rain cap and spark arrestor is recommended for the chimney flue to prevent water damage inside the flue, to reduce risks of bird and inspect entry into the flue and to reduce risks from sparks exiting the flue. Extensive water damage to chase and siding.
- EG-12 Exterior/Garage:
Localized wood damage and decay was noted on this wood chimney chase. Hire a carpenter to correct this damage, as the extent of damage can not be determined by visual inspection. Remove and replace damaged wood and re-paint as needed. There is a risk of concealed water damage here as this chimney is very exposed.
- RA-2 Roof/Attic:
Caulking around base of service entrance needs to be replaced to avoid water intrusion.
- RA-3 Roof/Attic:
Skylight needs to be assessed to licensed contractor. Leak is noted in attic around supportive structure of skylight.
- RA-4 Roof/Attic:
The gutters are clogged with organic debris and require cleaning and an all-around tune-up as multiple places were noted where gutters and downspouts are leaking and not sloped to drain. Clean the gutters and implement tune-up repairs to ensure they are unobstructed, well fastened, leak free and sloped to drain.
- RA-9 Roof/Attic:
All ventilation from bathrooms are venting into attic. Recommend hiring licensed contractor to correct ventilation to exterior of structure.
- E-5 Electrical:
The open electrical junction boxes need to be covered for improved safety - see attic. This is as simple as installing a cover plate over the box to protect the wiring. Sometimes, an extension ring is needed if finishes are covering the box. Repair as needed for improved safety. Typical throughout structure.
- E-6 Electrical:
The open electrical splice in the attic needs to be contained inside of a listed junction box. It is not recommended to splice onto wiring without use of a listed junction box. This is a sign of amateur wiring work which could indicate additional wiring defects that are latent and concealed. Have this further evaluated and repaired as recommended by a licensed electrician. Typical throughout structure.
- E-7 Electrical:
The GFCI protected receptacles on the exterior did not respond to normal testing and may be defective - they did not re-set indicating it is wired in series with another GFCI or it is defective. Have these receptacles repaired or replaced as needed. Typical throughout structure.
- E-8 Electrical:
The use of GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) protection is inconsistent with modern minimum standards for safety - see kitchen countertops. GFCI protection is recommended for the electrical receptacles in the following locations: the two dedicated kitchen appliance circuits, all receptacles within 6 feet of a sink, bathrooms, exterior, garage, unfinished basements, laundry and all wet and damp locations. GFCI's protect against electrocution by limiting the duration of an electrical shock. These are an important modern safety feature that have proven to save lives. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and update GFCI protection for improved safety.
- E-10 Electrical:
Many of the cover plates for electrical switches and receptacles were off at the time of inspection. This is considered a hazard. Recommend installing cover plates to avoid injury. Typical throughout structure.
- E-12 Electrical:
The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death. For more information, consult the Consumer Product Safety Commission at 1-800-638-2772 (C.P.S.C.) Modern standards in many states now recommend one CO alarm outside of all bedrooms and at least 1 per floor of the house.
- P-4 Plumbing:
The supply pipe insulation and support of copper pipes in the crawl space is inadequate. Be sure all supply lines in unheated spaces have been adequately insulated to protect from freezing conditions that could damage the pipes and to prevent heat loss.
- P-12 Plumbing:
The leaky hose bib requires repair - it leaked from the vacuum breaker on the top when the faucet was turned on.
- I-3 Interior:
Evidence of minor rodent entry into the attic and crawl space was discovered. It appeared to be old, but this is difficult to verify during a one-time inspection. I recommend inquiring with the seller regarding any history of rodent problems and/or treatment. A trapping and baiting program should be implemented to determine if these conditions are old. If rodents are trapped, additional exclusion and prevention work is needed: prune trees off the house, seal all openings to the exterior and implement a plan to rodent proof the house.
- K-3 Kitchen:
Kitchen vent ducted into attic. recommend hiring licensed professional to remediate the issue in order to avoid ghosting in attic. Ghosting is a build up of moisture causing discoloration and possible WDOs(wood destroying organisms).
- FB-3 Family Bathroom:
Caulking and regrouting is needed between the shower surround and the floor in the bathroom to prevent water from damaging the floor.
- MB-1 Master Bathroom:
The bathtub stopper appears to be broken - I could not get it to function properly. Repair or replace as needed.
- CS-2 Crawl Space:
Repair the wood rot at the crawl space access door - use pressure treated lumber for repairs.
- CS-3 Crawl Space:
The vapor barrier is done in old clear plastic. This has proven inadequate to control crawl space moisture. 6 mil black plastic is recommended to replace the old and inadequate vapor barrier.
Improves
- EG-8 Exterior/Garage:
Caulking is beginning to deteriorate around windows. Recommend re-caulking as needed. Typical throughout structure.
- E-2 Electrical:
The electric service drop is missing a proper drip loop. Install a drip loop for the electric service entrance conductors to ensure the water does not run into the master from the conductors.
- P-1 Plumbing:
Water pressure noted at 80psi. Normal range is between 40psi to 70psi. Extra psi can be an extra strain on a plumbing system.
- P-9 Plumbing:
The water heater temperature was set too low at the time of inspection - just 95 degrees F. The range of 120-125 degrees F is the generally recommended temperature. Adjust water heater temperature as needed. For best practice, set water temperature at the water heater to 130 degrees F and use a tempering valve to set water temp back to a safe 120 for domestic use. This high tank temperature will reduce risks of Legionella developing in the tank.
- K-1 Kitchen:
The kitchen sink is corroded and requires replacement in future.
Monitors
- P-11 Plumbing:
This water heater is likely close to the end of its useful service life. The average life of these water heaters is statistically 8-12 years though in practice, they can vary widely between 8-20 years depending on water quality and maintenance schedule such as frequency of flushing the tank and replacing sacrificial anodes. Budget to replace this water heater at any time. Water was hot at the time of inspection.
- SB-1 Structure and Basement:
Typical small cracks were noted in the foundation. No repair appears needed at this time. Minor settlement and shrinkage cracks are common in poured concrete and do not require repair as long as they do not continue to grow. The best way to prevent on-going settlement is by controlling roof runoff and site drainage to promote dry soils around the foundation; wet soils do not bear weight well. This will also help to prevent basement or crawl space moisture problems.
Due Diligences
- P-3 Plumbing:
No main water shut off was found inside the house. There is typically a shut off at the meter in the street, but this can be a time-consuming and difficult shut-off to access in an emergency. Inquire with the seller for the location of the main water shut as it may be concealed behind finishes or stored items. If no readily accessible shut off exists, hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and install.
- P-5 Plumbing:
Based on visible components, this property appears to have a private on-site septic system. These are specialty systems and are excluded from this inspection. Comments in this report related to this system are made as a courtesy only and are not meant to be a substitute for a full evaluation by a qualified specialist. Generally, septic tanks should be pumped and inspected every 3 years. Depending on the type of system and municipal regulations, inspection and maintenance may be required more frequently, often annually. I recommend:
- Investigating any information about this system's maintenance and repair history
- Reviewing any documentation available for this system
- Learning inspection and maintenance requirements for this system
- Hire a qualified specialist to evaluate, perform maintenance and make repairs as needed
- I-2 Interior:
The ceiling in some rooms of this house contains popcorn texture. This product may contain asbestos as many of these products contained asbestos prior to 1978. After 1978, remaining stocks of material containing asbestos were sold and as the product was slowly phased out. Asbestos testing is beyond the scope of this inspection. The health risks posed by this substance are minimal unless the texture becomes friable or air borne. If you wish to remove the popcorn texture or have remodel plans that could involve cutting or removing this sheetrock, asbestos testing is recommended. Consult with an environmental lab for more information on asbestos testing. One option is always to sheetrock over this texture if you wish to have a different ceiling finish.
Notes
- RA-1 Roof/Attic:
The roofing material on this building is a recently installed architectural grade shingle. These are often rated as 15-20 year shingles. In practice, as a roof assembly, I find these last closer to 18-23 years depending on the quality of the installation, the steepness of the roof and the amount of exposure. The installation appears neat and professional. Disclose any warranty information for this roof. Many professional roofing companies will offer limited workmanship warranties.
- P-13 Plumbing:
The hoses bibs need be winterized to prevent freezing in cold weather. I recommend doing this seasonally to prevent freezing. Typical throughout structure.
General Comments
Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations
Style of Home: Rambler
Type of Building : Residential Single Family (1 story)
Approximate Square Footage: 1920
Approximate Year of Original Construction: 1978
Unless the wiring in the building has been fully updated, this building likely has wiring that predates the late 1980's. Branch circuit wiring installed in buildings built prior to the late 1980s is typically rated for a maximum temperature of only 60 degrees Celsius. This includes non-metallic sheathed (Romex) wiring, and both BX and AC metal-clad flexible wiring. Knob and tube wiring, typically installed in homes built prior to 1950, may be rated for even lower maximum temperatures. Newer electric fixtures including lighting and fans typically require wiring rated for 90 degrees Celsius. Connecting newer fixtures to older, 60-degree-rated wiring is a potential fire hazard. Repairs for such conditions may involve replacing the last few feet of wiring to newer fixtures with new 90-degree-rated wire, and installing a junction box to join the old and new wiring. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if any such incompatible components are installed. Based on the age of this building, be aware that such components may be present.
In 1978, federal laws were past to prohibit use of lead and asbestos in building materials. Manufacturers of building materials were allowed to sell existing stocks of materials that were manufactured with lead and asbestos, so even buildings constructed as late as the mid-1980's could possibly contain lead or asbestos. Identification and testing for lead and asbestos and other environmental testing is beyond the scope of this home inspection. If you wish to seek additional information, I recommend contacting an environmental lab or industrial hygienist.
Attending the Inspection: Buyer
Occupancy: Occupied
Animals Present: Yes
Weather during the inspection: Cloudy, Light Rain
Approximate temperature during the inspection: Over 65[F]
Ground/Soil surface conditions: Damp
For the Purposes of This Report, the Front Door Faces: South
Grounds
Drainage and Lot Location
Clearance to Grade: Standard
Downspout Discharge: Below grade
Site Description: Flat
 |
Driveways/Walkways/Flatwork
Driveway: Concrete
Walkways: Concrete, Pavers
 |  |
Window and Stairwells
Present
 |
Grounds, Trees and Vegetation
Trees/Vegetation too near building: Yes
All trees, branches and vegetation should be pruned at least six feet away from the building to eliminate a condition conducive to wood destroying organisms and a path for rodent entry - see east side trees especially. Typical throughout structure.
 |  |
 |
Fences
Present
Localized damage was noted to the fencing - see west side. Implement carpentry repairs as needed.
 |
Exterior/Garage
Siding and Trim
Trim Material: Wood
Siding Material: Cedar shingles, Wood
 |
Siding is blistering due to close contact of vegetation.
 |  |
Eaves
Open rafters
Ghosting(build up of moisture) and damage under eaves due to water intrusion. Recommend cleaning ghosting
 |
 |
Eave coverings are in disrepair and are detaching from structure. Recommend reinstalling or removing. Typical throughout structure.
 |
Exterior Doors
Solid core
 |  |
Exterior Window Frames
Vinyl
.jpg) |
Caulking is beginning to deteriorate around windows. Recommend re-caulking as needed. Typical throughout structure.
 |
Decks, Balconies and Porches
Present
To see a prescriptive guide for residential wood deck construction click this link:
 |  |
Deck Structure: Pavers
Pavers are loose and could present a tripping/falling hazard.
 |
Chimneys
Present
Chimney Material: Metal
A rain cap and spark arrestor is recommended for the chimney flue to prevent water damage inside the flue, to reduce risks of bird and inspect entry into the flue and to reduce risks from sparks exiting the flue. Extensive water damage to chase and siding.
 |
Localized wood damage and decay was noted on this wood chimney chase. Hire a carpenter to correct this damage, as the extent of damage can not be determined by visual inspection. Remove and replace damaged wood and re-paint as needed. There is a risk of concealed water damage here as this chimney is very exposed.
 |  |
Garage
None noted
Roof/Attic
Roof Materials
Method of Roof Inspection: Walked on roof
Roof Style: Hip
Roof Materials: Three-tab composition shingle
Approximate Age of Roof: 4-6 Years
The roofing material on this building is a recently installed architectural grade shingle. These are often rated as 15-20 year shingles. In practice, as a roof assembly, I find these last closer to 18-23 years depending on the quality of the installation, the steepness of the roof and the amount of exposure. The installation appears neat and professional. Disclose any warranty information for this roof. Many professional roofing companies will offer limited workmanship warranties.
 |
Caulking around base of service entrance needs to be replaced to avoid water intrusion.
 |
Skylights
Skylight needs to be assessed to licensed contractor. Leak is noted in attic around supportive structure of skylight.
 |
Gutters and Downspouts
The gutters are clogged with organic debris and require cleaning and an all-around tune-up as multiple places were noted where gutters and downspouts are leaking and not sloped to drain. Clean the gutters and implement tune-up repairs to ensure they are unobstructed, well fastened, leak free and sloped to drain.
 |  |
 |
.jpg) |
Attic Access
Walked
Roof Framing and Sheathing
Rafters: 2x4, Truss, Hand Cut
Sheathing: Plywood
Attic Insulation
Insulation Type: Fiberglass
Approximate Insulation R-Value on Attic Floor: 11
 |
Attic and Roof Cavity Ventilation
Attic Ventilation Method: Ridge vents
 |
All ventilation from bathrooms are venting into attic. Recommend hiring licensed contractor to correct ventilation to exterior of structure.
 |
Electrical
Electric Service Voltage Tested
Service Voltage: 120/240
Electric Service
Service Entrance: Above Ground
Meter Base Amperage: 200
 |
The electric service drop is missing a proper drip loop. Install a drip loop for the electric service entrance conductors to ensure the water does not run into the master from the conductors.
 |
Service Equipment
Service Entrance (SE) conductor Size: Aluminum, 4/0, 200 amps
Main Panel Amperage: 200 amps
Electric Service Amperage: 200 amps
Main Electric Panel Location: Dining Room
Panel Manufacturer: Square D
 |  |
Branch Wiring
Wire Material: Copper
Wiring Method: Non-metallic sheathed cable
 |
The open electrical junction boxes need to be covered for improved safety - see attic. This is as simple as installing a cover plate over the box to protect the wiring. Sometimes, an extension ring is needed if finishes are covering the box. Repair as needed for improved safety. Typical throughout structure.
 |
The open electrical splice in the attic needs to be contained inside of a listed junction box. It is not recommended to splice onto wiring without use of a listed junction box. This is a sign of amateur wiring work which could indicate additional wiring defects that are latent and concealed. Have this further evaluated and repaired as recommended by a licensed electrician. Typical throughout structure.
 |  |
Receptacles and Fixtures
Inspection Method: Random Testing
Electric Receptacles: Three wire receptacles
The GFCI protected receptacles on the exterior did not respond to normal testing and may be defective - they did not re-set indicating it is wired in series with another GFCI or it is defective. Have these receptacles repaired or replaced as needed. Typical throughout structure.
 |
The use of GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) protection is inconsistent with modern minimum standards for safety - see kitchen countertops. GFCI protection is recommended for the electrical receptacles in the following locations: the two dedicated kitchen appliance circuits, all receptacles within 6 feet of a sink, bathrooms, exterior, garage, unfinished basements, laundry and all wet and damp locations. GFCI's protect against electrocution by limiting the duration of an electrical shock. These are an important modern safety feature that have proven to save lives. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and update GFCI protection for improved safety.
 (1).png)
-700x500 (4) (1).jpg)
Reverse polarity was noted at the electrical receptacle. This is when the hot and the neutral have been wired backwards. This is a safety issue that should be corrected by a licensed electrician. Typical throughout structure. Recommend hiring licensed electrician to correct issues.
 |  |
 |
Many of the cover plates for electrical switches and receptacles were off at the time of inspection. This is considered a hazard. Recommend installing cover plates to avoid injury. Typical throughout structure.
 |
Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm Systems
CO Alarms Noted:
On Main FloorOn 2nd FloorIn BasementOn 3rd FloorIn Bonus Room
CO Alarms: None Noted
The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. In addition, Washington State law (WAC 51-51-0315) now requires UL 2034 approved carbon monoxide alarms in ALL homes and condominiums being sold in Washington State. The location should be: at least one alarm outside of all sleeping areas and one on each floor of the house. Best practices are to have these alarms hardwired with a battery back-up - though requirements are for the installation to meet manufacturer's specifications. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death. Alarms have a useful service life of roughly 6 years, so changing them more frequently than smoke alarms is recommended.
Smoke Alarms Noted:
On Main FloorOn 2nd FloorIn BasementOn 3rd FloorIn All BedroomsIn Bonus Room
The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death. For more information, consult the Consumer Product Safety Commission at 1-800-638-2772 (C.P.S.C.) Modern standards in many states now recommend one CO alarm outside of all bedrooms and at least 1 per floor of the house.
None of the tested smoke alarms were working at the time of the inspection. Recommend replacing batteries and retesting.
 |
Electrical Grounding System
Present - Could Not Confirm
Electrical Bonding System
Present - Could Not Confirm
Plumbing
Water Pressure Tested During Inspection
Water pressure noted at 80psi. Normal range is between 40psi to 70psi. Extra psi can be an extra strain on a plumbing system.
 |
Water Service Supply
Pipe Material: Copper
Water Supply: Public water
Water Pressure: 80 PSI
Main Water Shut-off Location: Not Found - House
No main water shut off was found inside the house. There is typically a shut off at the meter in the street, but this can be a time-consuming and difficult shut-off to access in an emergency. Inquire with the seller for the location of the main water shut as it may be concealed behind finishes or stored items. If no readily accessible shut off exists, hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and install.
Distribution Pipe
Pipe Insulation: Missing in Crawl Space
The supply pipe insulation and support of copper pipes in the crawl space is inadequate. Be sure all supply lines in unheated spaces have been adequately insulated to protect from freezing conditions that could damage the pipes and to prevent heat loss.
 |  |
 |
Waste Pipe and Discharge
Discharge Type: Septic system
Waste and Vent Pipe Materials: ABS plastic
Location of Sewer Cleanout: Side Yard
This shows the location of the sewer cleanout found during inspection - east side of house.
Based on visible components, this property appears to have a private on-site septic system. These are specialty systems and are excluded from this inspection. Comments in this report related to this system are made as a courtesy only and are not meant to be a substitute for a full evaluation by a qualified specialist. Generally, septic tanks should be pumped and inspected every 3 years. Depending on the type of system and municipal regulations, inspection and maintenance may be required more frequently, often annually. I recommend:
- Investigating any information about this system's maintenance and repair history
- Reviewing any documentation available for this system
- Learning inspection and maintenance requirements for this system
- Hire a qualified specialist to evaluate, perform maintenance and make repairs as needed
 |
Leaky waste plumbing was noted. This requires immediate repair. Hire a licensed plumbing contractor to further evaluate and repair these pipes.
 |  |
Water Heater
System Type: Tank
Manufacturer: Lockinvar
Water Temperature: 110 Degrees F
Size: 47 gal
Age: 2007
Energy Source: Gas
Temperature Pressure Relief Value: Present - Not Tested
The temperature and pressure relief valve is arguably one of the most important safety devices in your house. Should the thermostats fail inside your water heater, this allows excess pressure to "blow off," which will prevent catastrophic build up of temperature and pressure which can make water heaters explosive. I do not test the "blow off valve" during inspection as there is a risk it could stick open and testing could cause the need for a repair. It is recommended that these be inspected annually; I would at least ask for a plumber to test the device every time I had a plumber out for any other job.
.jpg)
 |
Straps : Present
The water heater temperature was set too low at the time of inspection - just 95 degrees F. The range of 120-125 degrees F is the generally recommended temperature. Adjust water heater temperature as needed. For best practice, set water temperature at the water heater to 130 degrees F and use a tempering valve to set water temp back to a safe 120 for domestic use. This high tank temperature will reduce risks of Legionella developing in the tank.
 (1).jpg) |  |
This water heater is likely close to the end of its useful service life. The average life of these water heaters is statistically 8-12 years though in practice, they can vary widely between 8-20 years depending on water quality and maintenance schedule such as frequency of flushing the tank and replacing sacrificial anodes. Budget to replace this water heater at any time. Water was hot at the time of inspection.
 |  |
Exterior Hose Bibs
The leaky hose bib requires repair - it leaked from the vacuum breaker on the top when the faucet was turned on.
 |
The hoses bibs need be winterized to prevent freezing in cold weather. I recommend doing this seasonally to prevent freezing. Typical throughout structure.
Laundry and Additional Plumbing
Dryer
Power Source: Electric
Exhaust Duct: Ducted to Exterior
 |
Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation
Heating System
Energy Source: Natural gas
Heating Method: Gas forced air furnace
This house has a gas forced air furnace. A critical component to all combustion equipment like this is the heat exchanger. This is the welded clam-shell piece of metal inside the furnace that contains the products of combustion so that moisture, carbon monoxide and other products of combustion do not mix with interior air and get safely vented to the exterior. Heat exchangers on modern furnaces have an average life expectancy of 15-20 years. Unfortunately, heat exchangers are buried inside of heating equipment; they are not visible and specifically excluded from a home inspection. The risk of continuing to user older combustion, forced-air equipment is you could get a crack and the heat exchanger and never be aware of it. Cracked heat exchangers can pose a safety hazard and while heat exchangers can be replaced, typically, the repair involves furnace replacement.
 (1) (1) (1) (1) (1) (1) (1).PNG)
Manufacturer: Lennox
Capacity: 60,000 btu's
Age: 2011
.jpg) |
Air Filters
Filtration Systems: Disposable
Your heating system has disposable air filters installed. These should be changed quarterly or more to ensure proper air flow at the furnace. Be sure to install the filters with the arrows pointing in the same direction as the air flow in the furnace.
 |
Heating and Cooling Distribution Systems
Heat Source in Each Room: Present
Distribution Method: Forced Air / Ducts
 |
Solid Fuel Fireplaces
Fireplace Types: Prefabricated metal firebox
The wood burning fireplace has a flue damper up inside. This is designed to keep cold air out of the house when the fireplace is not in use. Be sure to keep the flue damper closed during the heating season when the fireplace is not in use to prevent heat loss.
 (3).PNG) |
Fuel Storage and Distribution
Gas Meter
Present
Gas Shutoff Location: West side of structure
Gas Pipe Materials: Steel and flex pipe
 |
Structure and Basement
Foundation
% of Foundation Not Visible: 100%
Evidence of Seismic Protection: Present
Building Configuration: Crawl space
Foundation Description: Poured concrete
Typical small cracks were noted in the foundation. No repair appears needed at this time. Minor settlement and shrinkage cracks are common in poured concrete and do not require repair as long as they do not continue to grow. The best way to prevent on-going settlement is by controlling roof runoff and site drainage to promote dry soils around the foundation; wet soils do not bear weight well. This will also help to prevent basement or crawl space moisture problems.
 |  |
Floor, Wall and Ceiling Framing
Wall Framing: Not visible
Wall Sheathing: Not visible
Floor Framing: 2x8
Sub-Floor Material: Plywood
 |  |
Interior
Floors and Floor Materials
Floor Materials: Carpet, Tile
 |  |
Walls, Ceilings, Trim and Closets
Wall and Ceiling Materials: Drywall
The ceiling in some rooms of this house contains popcorn texture. This product may contain asbestos as many of these products contained asbestos prior to 1978. After 1978, remaining stocks of material containing asbestos were sold and as the product was slowly phased out. Asbestos testing is beyond the scope of this inspection. The health risks posed by this substance are minimal unless the texture becomes friable or air borne. If you wish to remove the popcorn texture or have remodel plans that could involve cutting or removing this sheetrock, asbestos testing is recommended. Consult with an environmental lab for more information on asbestos testing. One option is always to sheetrock over this texture if you wish to have a different ceiling finish.
 |
Wall Insulation and Air Bypass
Wall Insulation: Not Visible
Stairs and Railings
Standard
Interior Doors
Solid Core
Pests and Rodents
Present
Evidence of minor rodent entry into the attic and crawl space was discovered. It appeared to be old, but this is difficult to verify during a one-time inspection. I recommend inquiring with the seller regarding any history of rodent problems and/or treatment. A trapping and baiting program should be implemented to determine if these conditions are old. If rodents are trapped, additional exclusion and prevention work is needed: prune trees off the house, seal all openings to the exterior and implement a plan to rodent proof the house.
Kitchen
Sinks and Faucets
Tested
The kitchen sink is corroded and requires replacement in future.
 |
Cabinets and Countertops
Countertop Material: Granite
Cabinet Material: Wood
 |
Ventilation Method
Kitchen vent ducted into attic. recommend hiring licensed professional to remediate the issue in order to avoid ghosting in attic. Ghosting is a build up of moisture causing discoloration and possible WDOs(wood destroying organisms).
 |
Appliances
Refrigerator: Operating
Dishwasher: Not operated
Range/ Oven /Cook-tops: Electric
 |  |
 |
General Kitchen Condition
Standard
Powder Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
Family Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
 |
Toilet
Tested
 |
Bathtub / Shower
Caulking and regrouting is needed between the shower surround and the floor in the bathroom to prevent water from damaging the floor.
 |
Bathroom Ventilation
Type: Bath fan
General Bath Condition
Standard
Master Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
The bathtub stopper appears to be broken - I could not get it to function properly. Repair or replace as needed.
 |
General Bath Condition
Standard
Crawl Space
Crawl Space Access
Method of Inspection: Crawled
During inspection of the crawl space, every effort is made to inspect the entire space. Visual inspection of crawl spaces is difficult and limited as access is often restricted by pipes, ducts and sub-floor insulation as well as limited clearances.
 |
Repair the wood rot at the crawl space access door - use pressure treated lumber for repairs.
 |
Vapor Barrier
Vapor Barrier Material: Old Clear Plastic
The vapor barrier is done in old clear plastic. This has proven inadequate to control crawl space moisture. 6 mil black plastic is recommended to replace the old and inadequate vapor barrier.
 |
Crawl Space Ventilation
Ventilation Method: Exterior wall vents
Posts and Footings
Standard
.jpg) |
The footing is not adequately bearing the post in the crawl space. This has weakened the structure of the home. Hire a licensed general contractor or structural engineer to further evaluate and repair. Post is set upon wood that is deteriorating due to moisture issues in crawlspace.
 |
Waste line is leaking onto beam causing water damage to beam and possible weakening of footing and structural support.
.jpg) |
Insulation
Insulation Type: None noted
Approximate R-Value: None noted
 |
Moisture Conditions
Present
Moderate water was noted in the crawl space. This condition may change seasonally, or with rain intensity. Moisture in crawl spaces can lead to interior molds, structural settlement and wood destroying organisms. Hire a drainage specialist or qualified contractor to further evaluate and correct this condition. Also see the Drainage section of this report for observations regarding exterior drainage repairs that are needed. Active water leak needs to be addressed immediately to avoid more damage to crawlspace.
 |
Checking Out Procedure
Check Out List
Oven:Off
Lights:OffClient and Realtor Still In House
Heating and Cooling:Restored to Pre-inspection temperatures
Appliances:Off / finishing cycle
Invoice -- Residential Inspection
Kenmore, WA
| Inspection with digital report | $425.00 |
| $425.00 | |
| DUE |
Signed Contracts
.jpg)
Welcome Home Inspections LLC
360-764-3299
welcomehomeinspectionswa@gmail.com
http://welcomehomeinspectionswa.com
Inspected by Eric Heide
WA State Home Inspector #: 2299