The Scope and Purpose of a Home Inspection
Purchasing property involves risk
The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a structure by providing a professional opinion about the overall condition of the structure. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we don’t know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend that you attend the inspection.
A home inspection is not an insurance policy
This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Home warranties can be purchased separately from insuring firms that provide this service.
A home inspection is visual and not destructive
The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing which will limit the scope of the inspection.
This is not an inspection for code compliance
This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction process structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, and this limits the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are augmented at least every three years for all of the varying disciplines. Municipalities can choose to adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their own timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done.
This is just our opinion
Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are the opinions of the home inspector. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have some differing opinions. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals.
The scope of this inspection
This inspection will include the following systems: exterior, roof, structure, drainage, foundation, attic, interior, plumbing, electrical and heating. The evaluation will be based on limited observations that are primarily visual and non-invasive. This inspection and report are not intended to be technically exhaustive.For more about the scope of a home inspection see: ASHI National Standards at http://www.homeinspector.org/Standards-of-Practice or Washington State Home Inspection Standards at http://app.leg.wa.gov/RCW/default.aspx?cite=18.280.030
Your expectations
The overall goal of a home inspection is to help ensure that your expectations are appropriate with the house you are proposing to buy. To this end we assist with discovery by showing and documenting observations during the home inspection. This should not be mistaken for a technically exhaustive inspection designed to uncover every defect with a building. Such inspections are available but they are generally cost-prohibitive to most homebuyers.
Your participation is requested
Your presence is requested during this inspection. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by a shared visual observation of the conditions of the property.
How to Read This Report
Getting the Information to You
This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a quick look at our "Summary Page” and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, videos and hot links to additional information.
The best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online. This will allow all you to expand your learning about your house. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined – clicking on these will provide you with a link to additional information.
This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document.
Chapters and Sections
This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.
Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there may be no narrative observation comments in that section.
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
- Major Concern:Repair items that may cost significant money to correct now or in the near future, or items that require immediate attention to prevent additional damage or eliminate safety hazards.
- Repair:Repair and maintenance items noted during inspection. Please note that some repair items can be expensive to correct such as re-finishing hardwood floors, but are considered simply repair items due to their cosmetic nature.
- Improve:Observations that are not necessarily defects, but which could be improved for safety, efficiency, or reliability reasons.
- Monitor:Items that should be watched to see if correction may be needed in the future.
- Due Diligence:Observation such as a buried oil tank that may require further investigation to determine the severity and / or urgency of repair.
- Future Project:A repair that may be deferred for some time but should be on the radar for repair or replacement in the near future.
- Efficiency:Denotes observations that are needed to make the home more energy efficient as well as to bring the home up to modern insulation standards. This category typically includes windows and insulation. Other items, such as lighting and appliances, are not inspected for their energy status.
- Completed:Items that were initially an issue but have since been completed.
- Note:Refers to aside information and /or any comments elaborating on descriptions of systems in the home or limitations to the home inspection.
Summary Page
The Summary Page is designed as a bulleted overview of all the observations noted during inspection. This helpful overview is not a substitution for reading the entire inspection report. The entire report must be read to get a complete understanding of this inspection report as the Summary Page does not include photographs or photo captions.
Moisture Meter Testing
Where moisture meter testing is indicated in this report a Protimiter Survey Master Dual Function was used.
Summary
Major Concerns
- (EG-4) Exterior/Garage:
This house has three decking systems: west, south and east. The east deck is the newest and in pretty good condition with just one or two boards that seem to need replacement. The two older systems: to the south and the west require repairs, some of which are structural: see posts to west deck. I was unable to fully inspect the frames here, due to limited access, but their visible condition suggests that a game plan is needed to repair / update these two systems. I recommend additional inspection and repair of these decks / porches by a qualified general contractor. Examples of observations noted during inspection include:
- Carpenter ant exit holes noted - west deck - could be concealed damage here.
- Wood decay in fascia of west deck where in concrete contact - entry steps.
- South deck: poorly flashed to the house and exposed OSB sheathing below the doors.
- South deck: no flashing between decking and siding - could cause wood decay
- Arrow points to the spot where flashings are missing and OSB is exposed.
- A few damaged boards were noted at the east deck.
- Signs of settlement - NW corner of west deck
- I would expect the need to replace the rotting posts system for the west deck.
- Rotted posts - see posts in soil contact - west deck.
- (RA-1) Roof/Attic:
The roofing material on this building appears to be an older dimensional or architectural grade shingle. These are often rated as 30-year shingles. In practice, as a roof assembly, I find these last closer to 18-22 years depending on the quality of the installation, the steepness of the roof and the amount of exposure. The installation is old and mostly original to the house, except for the addition. It is showing signs that roof replacement will be needed soon. It looks as though repairs have been made to prolong the useful life of the roof: see new ridge caps. It is impossible to predict when the roof will need replacement but I would expect in the next 3-5 years. Examples of specific observations noted during inspection include:
- Install diverter shingles at exposed fascia to protect this wood - maybe just wait for the next roof to do this.
- This roof installation predates the requirements for drip edge flashing - not worth repairing at this time.
- Shingles are starting to loose their bond and are loosing granulation
- The ridge caps have been replaced.
- Clean organic debris from valleys to facilitate a reliable drainage path.
- Staples have been used rather than nails - these are less reliable fasteners and no longer allowed.
Repairs
- (PWDO-1) Pests and Wood Destroying Organisms:
Moderate rodent damage was noted in the crawl space below the house. This may be old - it did not look fresh. Implement a plan to eliminate all rodent entry points, set and monitor traps and remediate all contamination. Rodent issues in crawl spaces are common. Regular baiting and trapping is recommended to ensure exclusion work is successful and to monitor these spaces. Once you know that they have been successful excluded, clean or replace contaminated building materials such as sub-floor insulation as needed.
- (G-2) Grounds:
The poured concrete walkway in the front yard has buckled or settled creating a trip hazard. This flatwork requires repair for a safe and proper walking surface. Often concrete slabs can be leveled with slab jacking but this is old concrete and may need to be replaced. High spots can sometimes be ground down to eliminate a trip hazard - obviously this will not level the walkway.
- (G-3) Grounds:
All trees, branches and vegetation should be pruned at least six feet away from the building to eliminate a condition conducive to wood destroying organisms and a path for rodent entry.
- (G-4) Grounds:
To eliminate a condition conducive to wood destroying organisms, remove the wood pile that is stacked up near the building - south side of the garage. Remove away from the structure and store in a dry place.
- (EG-1) Exterior/Garage:
Inadequate kick-out flashings were noted between the roof and wall junctures. These are important to divert water away from the siding and onto the roof to prevent water from running behind the siding. Hire a qualified contractor familiar with siding installation to further evaluate and repair. The time to do this is during the next re-roof.
- (EG-3) Exterior/Garage:
Multiple lost seals were noted in the exterior door glazing - see south French doors. A lost seal is when the glass becomes cloudy from condensation. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a glazing specialist and repair all door glazing with lost seals.
- (EG-6) Exterior/Garage:
The overhead garage door does not reverse under resistance to closing. Adjustment of the sensitivity is recommended for improved safety. This typically involves adjusting a small plastic screw on the opener.
- (EG-7) Exterior/Garage:
Replace the missing cord for the safety latch on the overhead garage door. This is important to be able to open the door in case of a power outage.
- (RA-3) Roof/Attic:
The gutters are clogged with organic debris and require cleaning to ensure proper control of roof runoff. Clean the gutters and ensure they are unobstructed, leak free and properly sloped to drain.
- (RA-4) Roof/Attic:
The weather strip for the attic access hatch is not seated properly and the hatch is leaking air. This should be better air sealed to prevent heat migration into the attic.
- (E-2) Electrical:
The wiring to the sub-panel in the garage requires repair. This is a modern 4-wire feed. The neutrals should be on a floating bus bar and should be separated from the equipment grounds to eliminate stray voltage. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and repair this condition.
- (E-3) Electrical:
The non-metallic sheathed cable is poorly supported and requires staples or hangers for additional support and strain relief - see crawl space. This type of wiring should be supported every 4 feet and within 2 feet of junction boxes.
- (E-4) Electrical:
Secure the open cover for the conduit on the north side of the garage to protect this wiring from physical damage.
- (E-5) Electrical:
The missing cover plates should be installed to cover all access to wiring at switches and receptacles - see dining room. Please note that extension rings may be needed as the reveal between the outlets and switches and the wall finishes is not even.
- (E-6) Electrical:
The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. In addition, Washington State law (WAC 51-51-0315) now requires UL 2034 approved carbon monoxide alarms in all homes and condominiums being sold in Washington State. Location should be: at least one alarm outside of all sleeping areas and one on each floor of the house. Best practices are to have these alarms hardwired with a battery back-up - though requirements are for the installation to meet manufacturer's specifications. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death.
- (P-2) Plumbing:
The supply pipe insulation is incomplete in the crawl space. Be sure all supply lines in unheated spaces have been adequately insulated to protect from freezing conditions that could damage the pipes and to prevent heat loss.
- (P-5) Plumbing:
This house has a sump pump system installed. This is on a GFCI protected breaker, which is recommended by electrical code, but risks accidental trips which could disable the pump. The crawl space was dry at the time of inspection and the system seems to be working. I recommend disclosing any additional information about this system. If it is needed to keep this space dry, additional battery back-up can be added.
- (HCF-2) Heating, Cooling and Fireplaces:
Annual servicing of central heating equipment is recommended for safe and reliable heat. Records indicate that this furnace has not been serviced in the last year. The furnace was tested during inspection and was operational. Hire a licensed heating contractor to service and further evaluate the furnace. Examples of specific observations noted and testing procedures done during inspection include:
- The blower fan seems loud - listen to video.
- The filter seems to be installed backwards
- The blower fan looks dirty.
- The door was slightly loose which will allow crawl space air to enter the house.
- (HCF-3) Heating, Cooling and Fireplaces:
The Duro Dyne mechanical ventilation timer was not set at the time of inspection - this appeared to be operating when tested but should be programmed to come on at least two hours / day or more, depending on occupant behavior. The goal of this fan is to provide fresh air for the house and to control relative humidity. During winter months try and keep relative humidity below 50%. Hire a licensed heating contractor to repair and program during servicing to ensure the system is performing as intended
- (HCF-6) Heating, Cooling and Fireplaces:
The back wall of the firebox inside the fireplace is damaged. These are ceramic inserts and you may be able to get a replacement part. Repair as recommended by a qualified chimney sweep.
- (I-2) Interior:
Complete the closet door project in the bonus room above the garage.
- (I-3) Interior:
The kitchen fan duct was noted to be uninsulated in the crawl space. This can contribute to seasonal condensation. Insulation on this vent is recommended.
- (PB-1) Powder Bathroom:
Complete repairs to the power bathroom toilet - these were happening at the time of inspection.
- (FB-1) Family Bathroom:
Slow drains were noted at the bathroom sinks indicating that the drains are likely obstructed. Have these drains further evaluated and repaired needed by a plumbing contractor - seems like most of the drains need a cleaning.
- (FB-3) Family Bathroom:
The toilet water storage tank lid is cracked. Replace as desired.
- (MB-1) Master Bathroom:
The tile and grout should be cleaned and sealed with grout sealer to prevent water damage to the tile - see especially inside shower surrounds - master bath. This should be a routine procedure with tile unless epoxy grout was used. If this is not done in epoxy grout plan on annual cleaning and sealing tile grout inside the shower surrounds to prolong the useful life of the tile. Prior to sealing, replace any failing caulking at inside corners. The sanded caulking works well and can be selected to match existing grout.
- (MB-2) Master Bathroom:
The master bathtub drain is slow and appears to be obstructed. Hire a plumber to further evaluate this drain line and repair for adequate drainage.
- (CS-1) Crawl Space:
The crawl space access hatch should be insulated and weather stripped to prevent heat loss and air leakage.
- (CS-2) Crawl Space:
The sub-floor insulation in the crawl space is incomplete and requires repair - see also some moderate rodent damage. Be sure the entire sub-floor is insulated. When making repairs it is best to seal any noticeable air leaks between the crawl space and the living space. Check all penetrations through the floor.
Improves
- (EG-2) Exterior/Garage:
During the next roof replacement, a fascia detail could be added to the rafter tails for a stronger frame on which to mount gutters.
- (P-6) Plumbing:
A moisture alarm with water shut-off features is recommended under the washing machine to protect against accidental leaks in the supply hoses. Pans can be effective when there is a drain, but even these will not protect against a burst supply connector. A moisture alarm with automatic shut-off will. Watts is a brand I have seen installed: http://www.watts.com/pages/learnAbout/intelliflow.asp?catId
- (P-7) Plumbing:
Foil or Mylar transition duct was noted in use to connect the dryer to the rigid vent. This product is not recommended as it has proven to be unreliable and a potential fire hazard. A corrugated metal flex duct is recommended.
Monitors
- (PWDO-2) Pests and Wood Destroying Organisms:
Carpenter ant exit holes were noted in some of the wood on the west deck. No live ants were found during inspection but carpenter ant activity is both seasonal and nocturnal so they can be difficult to find during inspection. Monitor these areas as chemical treatment may be needed and please see all WDO observations in this report that outline organic control methods to eliminate conducive conditions. If large black ants are noted, please consult with a pest control operator. As always, this condition could conceal hidden damage. This could be revealed during any repairs to the deck post and footing system.
- (G-1) Grounds:
Corrugated storm drain pipe appears to be used for at least some of the sub-surface storm drains. This product is prone to failure as it is susceptible to crushing and clogging. Monitor these drains after heavy rains and keep your gutters clean to prolong the service life of this pipe. Clogged and overflowing pipes would indicate a need for replacement.
- (EG-5) Exterior/Garage:
The wood chimney chase is exposed to the weather. Expect the need for regular paint and caulk maintenance here.
- (I-1) Interior:
The floors are not level in the living room area - see a slight dip towards the center of the house. I also noted a repaired crack on the beam / wall juncture near the fireplace / electric panel. No fresh cracks were noted. I can't find anything to correct at this time. Monitor for any signs of on-going movement.
- (K-1) Kitchen:
Kitchen sink disposers are not recommended on septic systems. Refrain from using except for the items that get away from you.
- (FB-2) Family Bathroom:
The waste plumbing below the family bathroom sink has a scaling build-up that indicates prior leaks. No leakage was found at the time of inspection. Monitor and repair as needed.
Due Diligences
- (RA-2) Roof/Attic:
This building has a low-slope roof pitch that is covered in a composition shingle - see breezeway. This is a tricky installation which should be installed with double underlayment or a membrane below the shingles to prevent water from seeping back under the shingles and causing leaks. The installation of the membrane or paper below the singles is not visible and cannot be inspected. No signs of prior leaks were noted during inspection. The installation seems to be performing well to date.
- (RA-5) Roof/Attic:
Stains and discoloration were noted on the roof decking material when viewed from the attic. This indicates the attic has experienced prior condensation problems during the cold weather months. Generally, the way to prevent seasonal condensation in an attic involves a 4-pronged approach:
1. Air seal the ceiling as is feasible to slow air migration from the interior into the attic.
2. Be sure all bath and kitchen fans in the attic are well-sealed and venting to the exterior.
3. Keep indoor relative humidity below 55% during cold-weather months
4. Make sure the roof cavity / attic spaces are correctly ventilated.
The staining on the plywood was mild at the time of inspection. On my first visit, the stains were combined with active dampness. I believe this was due to the cold freezing fog on the morning on my first inspection, as even the truss cords were damp. I returned on 3/14/19 and the attic was dry. Options for handling this include:
- Implement air sealing work and keep indoor relative humidity below 55% and monitor during cold weather to make sure the space is staying dry and take corrective action only if needed. This is the most logical and cost-effective solution.
- Have this further investigated by a roofing contractor. This is recommended during the next re-roof, but not be effective at this time.
- Have it further investigated by a mold remediation or building performance contractor. This is recommended if the problem persists or worsens.
It is difficult to gauge during a one time inspection the degree to which this is an older or intermittent problem. In this case it could be older from when the house had drainage problems below the house. This makes it difficult to make an accurate recommendation for corrective action as it can take time to determine a practical scope and urgency for repair. For more information about roof condensation problems, please see the attached hot link above.
- (E-1) Electrical:
An inadequate working clearance was noted for the electric load center - see how the cabinet blocks access to the panel. A 30 inch wide and 36 inch deep unobstructed working clearance is recommended for improved safety. In addition, this panel seems over-full. I could not read the full listing on the panel, but it looks like it is rated fro 20 breakers - there seem to be more than that will all of the tandem breakers. This could be an issue when adding onto the wiring system, such as if a new owner wanted to add a heat pump. Consult with a licensed electrician to further evaluate this condition and relocate the panel or improve access as needed and investigate the feasibility of expansion this panel.
- (P-1) Plumbing:
No main water shut off was found inside the house - I bet it is in the closet with the water heater below the stairs that is full at the moment. There is typically a shut off at the meter in the street, but this can be a time-consuming and difficult shut-off to access in an emergency. Disclose the location of the main water shut as it may be concealed behind finishes or stored items. If no readily accessible shut off exists, hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and install.
- (FSD-2) Fuel Storage and Distribution:
The 2009 edition of NFPA 54, National Fuel Gas Code, includes new requirements for bonding CSST gas piping systems to the grounding conductor of the building's electrical system, to reduce the possibility of damage by lightning strikes by reducing the electrical potential between metallic objects and building systems, including gas distribution. I did not see bonding on the gas pipe during inspection. I could have missed this somewhere, but I did not see it. I recommend having this checked during other electrical repairs to be sure the gas piping is correctly bonded.
Efficiencies
- (RA-6) Roof/Attic:
The attic insulation could be improved to modern standards - this is from a code cycle or two ago. Modern standards recommend R-49 on the floor and R-21 on walls. R-value is the measure of resistance to heat loss; the higher the R-value the better the insulation. During insulation repairs it is best practices to implement any air seal-up repairs to seal air leakage. Also, be sure you have completed any wiring or other projects that are needed in the attic. Then, hire an insulation contractor to improve thermal barriers.
- (HCF-1) Heating, Cooling and Fireplaces:
Consider upgrading the heating system by installing a heat pump - this system will be 2-4 times more efficient than the electric forced air furnace depending on the type you install. You will also have the benefit of cooling.
Notes
- (P-3) Plumbing:
Based on visible components, this property appears to have a private on-site septic system. These are specialty systems and are excluded from this inspection. Comments in this report related to this system are made as a courtesy only and are not meant to be a substitute for a full evaluation by a qualified specialist. Generally, septic tanks should be pumped and inspected every 3 years. Depending on the type of system and municipal regulations, inspection and maintenance may be required more frequently, often annually. I recommend:
- Disclosing any information about this system's maintenance and repair history
- Provide any documentation available for this system
- Provide inspection and maintenance requirements for this system
- Hire a qualified specialist evaluate, perform maintenance and make repairs as needed
- (P-4) Plumbing:
The water heater listing plate was not visible, but it looks as though this tank was updated in the last few years.
- (HCF-4) Heating, Cooling and Fireplaces:
Thermal images show approximate temperatures at heating and cooling registers. I use these images just to show the system was generally functioning during inspection. I did note some odd differences in temperature between rooms - the master bedroom seemed especially hot compared to other rooms.
- (HCF-5) Heating, Cooling and Fireplaces:
Thermal images show the radiant floor pad working in the master bathroom.
- (FSD-1) Fuel Storage and Distribution:
The house has a small propane tank that looks as though it must be filled by hand. This is allowed, but some people find it less convenient than delivery. For propane delivery service, you typically have 120 gallon tanks or larger. Consult with a propane supply as desired.
- (K-2) Kitchen:
The oven was tested in bake mode and was working at the time of inspection.
- (PB-2) Powder Bathroom:
During inspection today I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for concealed leaks and sounded for loose tile and finishes in shower and tub enclosures. I do not test bathtub overflow drains as this risks damaging finishes around the tub. Monitor tubs while filling and avoid pushing water into the overflow. Even well-installed overflow drains can leak as the gaskets that seal the overflow will dry out over time and may no longer provide a watertight seal. Monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents less stress on plumbing than daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
General Comments
Building Characteristics / Conditions
Type of Building Single Family (2-story)
Approximate Year of Original Construction 1997
Attending the Inspection Seller
Occupancy Occupied
Animals Present Yes
Weather during the inspection Cloudy
Approximate temperature during the inspection Below 40[F]
Ground/Soil surface conditions Damp
House Orientation For the purposes of this report the front door faces west
Pests and Wood Destroying Organisms
Pests and Rodents
Present
Moderate rodent damage was noted in the crawl space below the house. This may be old - it did not look fresh. Implement a plan to eliminate all rodent entry points, set and monitor traps and remediate all contamination. Rodent issues in crawl spaces are common. Regular baiting and trapping is recommended to ensure exclusion work is successful and to monitor these spaces. Once you know that they have been successful excluded, clean or replace contaminated building materials such as sub-floor insulation as needed.
Wood Destroying Organisms
Visible Evidence of Active Wood Destroying Insects None noted
Visible Evidence of Inactive Wood Destroying Insects None noted
Visible Evidence of Active Wood Decay and Fungi Present
Visible Evidence of Damage from Wood Destroying Organisms Present
Visible Evidence of Conditions Conducive to Wood Destroying Organisms Present
Carpenter ant exit holes were noted in some of the wood on the west deck. No live ants were found during inspection but carpenter ant activity is both seasonal and nocturnal so they can be difficult to find during inspection. Monitor these areas as chemical treatment may be needed and please see all WDO observations in this report that outline organic control methods to eliminate conducive conditions. If large black ants are noted, please consult with a pest control operator. As always, this condition could conceal hidden damage. This could be revealed during any repairs to the deck post and footing system.
Grounds
Drainage and Lot Location
Clearance to Grade Standard
Downspout Discharge Below grade
Lot Description Flat
Corrugated storm drain pipe appears to be used for at least some of the sub-surface storm drains. This product is prone to failure as it is susceptible to crushing and clogging. Monitor these drains after heavy rains and keep your gutters clean to prolong the service life of this pipe. Clogged and overflowing pipes would indicate a need for replacement.
Driveways/Walkways/Flatwork
Driveway Gravel
Walkways Concrete
Patios Flagstone
The poured concrete walkway in the front yard has buckled or settled creating a trip hazard. This flatwork requires repair for a safe and proper walking surface. Often concrete slabs can be leveled with slab jacking but this is old concrete and may need to be replaced. High spots can sometimes be ground down to eliminate a trip hazard - obviously this will not level the walkway.
Window and Stairwells
None Noted
Grounds, Trees and Vegetation
Trees/Vegetation too near building Yes
All trees, branches and vegetation should be pruned at least six feet away from the building to eliminate a condition conducive to wood destroying organisms and a path for rodent entry.
To eliminate a condition conducive to wood destroying organisms, remove the wood pile that is stacked up near the building - south side of the garage. Remove away from the structure and store in a dry place.
Retaining Walls
None noted
Exterior Stairs
Standard
Fences
None noted
Carport, Outbuildings and Other
None noted
Exterior/Garage
Siding and Trim
Trim Material Wood
Siding Material Cedar shingles
Inadequate kick-out flashings were noted between the roof and wall junctures. These are important to divert water away from the siding and onto the roof to prevent water from running behind the siding. Hire a qualified contractor familiar with siding installation to further evaluate and repair. The time to do this is during the next re-roof.
Eaves
Open rafters
Exterior Doors
Solid core, Glass panel doors
During the next roof replacement, a fascia detail could be added to the rafter tails for a stronger frame on which to mount gutters.
Multiple lost seals were noted in the exterior door glazing - see south French doors. A lost seal is when the glass becomes cloudy from condensation. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a glazing specialist and repair all door glazing with lost seals.
Exterior Window Frames
Vinyl
Decks and Balconies
Present
Deck Structure Not visible
Deck Ledger Board Not visible
Guardrail None needed
Decking Material Softwood
This house has three decking systems: west, south and east. The east deck is the newest and in pretty good condition with just one or two boards that seem to need replacement. The two older systems: to the south and the west require repairs, some of which are structural: see posts to west deck. I was unable to fully inspect the frames here, due to limited access, but their visible condition suggests that a game plan is needed to repair / update these two systems. I recommend additional inspection and repair of these decks / porches by a qualified general contractor. Examples of observations noted during inspection include:
- Carpenter ant exit holes noted - west deck - could be concealed damage here.
- Wood decay in fascia of west deck where in concrete contact - entry steps.
- South deck: poorly flashed to the house and exposed OSB sheathing below the doors.
- South deck: no flashing between decking and siding - could cause wood decay
- Arrow points to the spot where flashings are missing and OSB is exposed.
- A few damaged boards were noted at the east deck.
- Signs of settlement - NW corner of west deck
- I would expect the need to replace the rotting posts system for the west deck.
- Rotted posts - see posts in soil contact - west deck.
Porches
Present
Chimneys
Present
Chimney Material Metal below siding
Chimney Flue Liners Not visible
The wood chimney chase is exposed to the weather. Expect the need for regular paint and caulk maintenance here.
Garage
Attached
Automatic Garage Opener Present
Garage Door Type Wood
The overhead garage door does not reverse under resistance to closing. Adjustment of the sensitivity is recommended for improved safety. This typically involves adjusting a small plastic screw on the opener.
Roof/Attic
Roof Materials
Method of Roof Inspection Walked on roof
Roof Style Gable, Low slope
Roof Materials Architectural grade composition shingle
Approximate Age of Roof Mostly 1997 with newer at breezeway addition
The roofing material on this building appears to be an older dimensional or architectural grade shingle. These are often rated as 30-year shingles. In practice, as a roof assembly, I find these last closer to 18-22 years depending on the quality of the installation, the steepness of the roof and the amount of exposure. The installation is old and mostly original to the house, except for the addition. It is showing signs that roof replacement will be needed soon. It looks as though repairs have been made to prolong the useful life of the roof: see new ridge caps. It is impossible to predict when the roof will need replacement but I would expect in the next 3-5 years. Examples of specific observations noted during inspection include:
- Install diverter shingles at exposed fascia to protect this wood - maybe just wait for the next roof to do this.
- This roof installation predates the requirements for drip edge flashing - not worth repairing at this time.
- Shingles are starting to loose their bond and are loosing granulation
- The ridge caps have been replaced.
- Clean organic debris from valleys to facilitate a reliable drainage path.
- Staples have been used rather than nails - these are less reliable fasteners and no longer allowed.
This building has a low-slope roof pitch that is covered in a composition shingle - see breezeway. This is a tricky installation which should be installed with double underlayment or a membrane below the shingles to prevent water from seeping back under the shingles and causing leaks. The installation of the membrane or paper below the singles is not visible and cannot be inspected. No signs of prior leaks were noted during inspection. The installation seems to be performing well to date.
Skylights
Insulated curb style
Gutters and Downspouts
Seamless Aluminum
The gutters are clogged with organic debris and require cleaning to ensure proper control of roof runoff. Clean the gutters and ensure they are unobstructed, leak free and properly sloped to drain.
Attic Access
Crawled partial
The weather strip for the attic access hatch is not seated properly and the hatch is leaking air. This should be better air sealed to prevent heat migration into the attic.
Roof Framing and Sheathing
Rafters Truss
Sheathing Plywood
Stains and discoloration were noted on the roof decking material when viewed from the attic. This indicates the attic has experienced prior condensation problems during the cold weather months. Generally, the way to prevent seasonal condensation in an attic involves a 4-pronged approach:
1. Air seal the ceiling as is feasible to slow air migration from the interior into the attic.
2. Be sure all bath and kitchen fans in the attic are well-sealed and venting to the exterior.
3. Keep indoor relative humidity below 55% during cold-weather months
4. Make sure the roof cavity / attic spaces are correctly ventilated.
The staining on the plywood was mild at the time of inspection. On my first visit, the stains were combined with active dampness. I believe this was due to the cold freezing fog on the morning on my first inspection, as even the truss cords were damp. I returned on 3/14/19 and the attic was dry. Options for handling this include:
- Implement air sealing work and keep indoor relative humidity below 55% and monitor during cold weather to make sure the space is staying dry and take corrective action only if needed. This is the most logical and cost-effective solution.
- Have this further investigated by a roofing contractor. This is recommended during the next re-roof, but not be effective at this time.
- Have it further investigated by a mold remediation or building performance contractor. This is recommended if the problem persists or worsens.
It is difficult to gauge during a one time inspection the degree to which this is an older or intermittent problem. In this case it could be older from when the house had drainage problems below the house. This makes it difficult to make an accurate recommendation for corrective action as it can take time to determine a practical scope and urgency for repair. For more information about roof condensation problems, please see the attached hot link above.
Attic Insulation
Insulation Type Fiberglass
Approximate Insulation R-Value on Attic Floor 30
The attic insulation could be improved to modern standards - this is from a code cycle or two ago. Modern standards recommend R-49 on the floor and R-21 on walls. R-value is the measure of resistance to heat loss; the higher the R-value the better the insulation. During insulation repairs it is best practices to implement any air seal-up repairs to seal air leakage. Also, be sure you have completed any wiring or other projects that are needed in the attic. Then, hire an insulation contractor to improve thermal barriers.
Attic and Roof Cavity Ventilation
Attic Ventilation Method Roof jack vents, Soffit vents
Electrical
Service Equipment
Volts 120/240
Service Drop Underground
Meter Base Amperage 200
Service Entrance (SE) conductor Size Aluminum, 4/0, 200 amps
Main Panel Amperage 200 amps
Electric Service Amperage 200 amps
Main Electric Panel Location Living Room
An inadequate working clearance was noted for the electric load center - see how the cabinet blocks access to the panel. A 30 inch wide and 36 inch deep unobstructed working clearance is recommended for improved safety. In addition, this panel seems over-full. I could not read the full listing on the panel, but it looks like it is rated fro 20 breakers - there seem to be more than that will all of the tandem breakers. This could be an issue when adding onto the wiring system, such as if a new owner wanted to add a heat pump. Consult with a licensed electrician to further evaluate this condition and relocate the panel or improve access as needed and investigate the feasibility of expansion this panel.
Sub Panels
Sub-panel
Sub-panel Main Conductor Copper, #10, 30 amps
Sub--Panel Amperage 30
Sub-Panel Location Garage
The wiring to the sub-panel in the garage requires repair. This is a modern 4-wire feed. The neutrals should be on a floating bus bar and should be separated from the equipment grounds to eliminate stray voltage. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and repair this condition.
Branch Wiring
Wire Material Copper and Multi-strand Aluminum
Wiring Method Non-metallic sheathed cable
The non-metallic sheathed cable is poorly supported and requires staples or hangers for additional support and strain relief - see crawl space. This type of wiring should be supported every 4 feet and within 2 feet of junction boxes.
Secure the open cover for the conduit on the north side of the garage to protect this wiring from physical damage.
Receptacles and Fixtures
Inspection Method Random Testing
Electric Receptacles Three wire receptacles
The missing cover plates should be installed to cover all access to wiring at switches and receptacles - see dining room. Please note that extension rings may be needed as the reveal between the outlets and switches and the wall finishes is not even.
Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detection Systems
Present
The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. In addition, Washington State law (WAC 51-51-0315) now requires UL 2034 approved carbon monoxide alarms in all homes and condominiums being sold in Washington State. Location should be: at least one alarm outside of all sleeping areas and one on each floor of the house. Best practices are to have these alarms hardwired with a battery back-up - though requirements are for the installation to meet manufacturer's specifications. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death.
Grounding Electrode / Conductor
Could Not Confirm
Plumbing
Water Service Supply
Pipe Material Copper
Well or Public Supply Public water
Pressure Reducing Valve None noted
No main water shut off was found inside the house - I bet it is in the closet with the water heater below the stairs that is full at the moment. There is typically a shut off at the meter in the street, but this can be a time-consuming and difficult shut-off to access in an emergency. Disclose the location of the main water shut as it may be concealed behind finishes or stored items. If no readily accessible shut off exists, hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and install.
Distribution Pipe
Pipe Insulation Present
Supply Pipe Materials Copper, Not visible
Functional Flow Average
The supply pipe insulation is incomplete in the crawl space. Be sure all supply lines in unheated spaces have been adequately insulated to protect from freezing conditions that could damage the pipes and to prevent heat loss.
Waste Pipe and Discharge
Discharge Type Septic system
Waste and Vent Pipe Materials ABS plastic
Based on visible components, this property appears to have a private on-site septic system. These are specialty systems and are excluded from this inspection. Comments in this report related to this system are made as a courtesy only and are not meant to be a substitute for a full evaluation by a qualified specialist. Generally, septic tanks should be pumped and inspected every 3 years. Depending on the type of system and municipal regulations, inspection and maintenance may be required more frequently, often annually. I recommend:
- Disclosing any information about this system's maintenance and repair history
- Provide any documentation available for this system
- Provide inspection and maintenance requirements for this system
- Hire a qualified specialist evaluate, perform maintenance and make repairs as needed
Water Heater
System Type Tank
Manufacturer Bradford-White
Size Not Visible
Age Not Visible
Energy Source Electricity
Temperature Pressure Relief Value Present - Not Tested
The water heater listing plate was not visible, but it looks as though this tank was updated in the last few years.
Exterior Hose Bibs
Operating
Additional Sinks
None noted
Sewage Ejector Pumps
None noted
Sump Pumps and Drains
Floor Drain None noted
Sump Pumps Present
This house has a sump pump system installed. This is on a GFCI protected breaker, which is recommended by electrical code, but risks accidental trips which could disable the pump. The crawl space was dry at the time of inspection and the system seems to be working. I recommend disclosing any additional information about this system. If it is needed to keep this space dry, additional battery back-up can be added.
Washer
Tested
A moisture alarm with water shut-off features is recommended under the washing machine to protect against accidental leaks in the supply hoses. Pans can be effective when there is a drain, but even these will not protect against a burst supply connector. A moisture alarm with automatic shut-off will. Watts is a brand I have seen installed: http://www.watts.com/pages/learnAbout/intelliflow.asp?catId
Dryer
Tested
Power Source Electric
Duct to Exterior Ducted
Foil or Mylar transition duct was noted in use to connect the dryer to the rigid vent. This product is not recommended as it has proven to be unreliable and a potential fire hazard. A corrugated metal flex duct is recommended.
Additional Plumbing
None noted
Heating, Cooling and Fireplaces
Heating System
Energy Source Electricity
Heating Method Forced air furnace
Manufacturer Rheem
Last Service Record None
Filtration System Disposable
Consider upgrading the heating system by installing a heat pump - this system will be 2-4 times more efficient than the electric forced air furnace depending on the type you install. You will also have the benefit of cooling.
Annual servicing of central heating equipment is recommended for safe and reliable heat. Records indicate that this furnace has not been serviced in the last year. The furnace was tested during inspection and was operational. Hire a licensed heating contractor to service and further evaluate the furnace. Examples of specific observations noted and testing procedures done during inspection include:
- The blower fan seems loud - listen to video.
- The filter seems to be installed backwards
- The blower fan looks dirty.
- The door was slightly loose which will allow crawl space air to enter the house.
The Duro Dyne mechanical ventilation timer was not set at the time of inspection - this appeared to be operating when tested but should be programmed to come on at least two hours / day or more, depending on occupant behavior. The goal of this fan is to provide fresh air for the house and to control relative humidity. During winter months try and keep relative humidity below 50%. Hire a licensed heating contractor to repair and program during servicing to ensure the system is performing as intended
Cooling Systems / Heat Pumps
None Noted
Heating / Cooling Distribution Systems
Heat Source in Each Room Present
Distribution Method Ductwork
Thermal images show approximate temperatures at heating and cooling registers. I use these images just to show the system was generally functioning during inspection. I did note some odd differences in temperature between rooms - the master bedroom seemed especially hot compared to other rooms.
Additional Heat Sources
Present
Description Radiant floor, Wall mounted forced air heaters
Gas Fireplaces
None noted
Solid Fuel Fireplaces
Present
Fireplace Types Prefabricated metal firebox
Fuel Storage and Distribution
Oil Storage
None noted
Propane Storage
Present
Storage Type Above ground tank
Propane Tank Size 5 gal
Propane Tank Location South side
Propane Shutoff Location At tank
The house has a small propane tank that looks as though it must be filled by hand. This is allowed, but some people find it less convenient than delivery. For propane delivery service, you typically have 120 gallon tanks or larger. Consult with a propane supply as desired.
Gas Meter
None noted
Gas, Propane and Oil Piping
The 2009 edition of NFPA 54, National Fuel Gas Code, includes new requirements for bonding CSST gas piping systems to the grounding conductor of the building's electrical system, to reduce the possibility of damage by lightning strikes by reducing the electrical potential between metallic objects and building systems, including gas distribution. I did not see bonding on the gas pipe during inspection. I could have missed this somewhere, but I did not see it. I recommend having this checked during other electrical repairs to be sure the gas piping is correctly bonded.
Structure and Basement
Foundation
Foundation Description Poured concrete
Floor, Wall and Ceiling Framing
Wall Framing Not visible
Wall Insulation Not visible
Wall Sheathing Not visible
Interior
Floors
Floor Materials Carpet, Hardwood, Tile
Floor Settlement Minor
The floors are not level in the living room area - see a slight dip towards the center of the house. I also noted a repaired crack on the beam / wall juncture near the fireplace / electric panel. No fresh cracks were noted. I can't find anything to correct at this time. Monitor for any signs of on-going movement.
Walls, Ceilings, Trim and Closets
Wall and Ceiling Materials Drywall
Stairs and Railings
Standard
Interior Doors
Solid Core
Windows
Window Glazing Double pane
Interior Window Frame Vinyl
Window Styles Single hung, Fixed pane
Mechanical Ventilation
Bath Fan Ducting Ducted to exterior, Ductwork not visible
Kitchen Fan Ducting Ducted to exterior
Kitchen
Sinks and Faucets
Tested
Cabinets and Countertops
Countertop Material Tile
Cabinet Material Wood, Wood laminate
Ventilation Method
Fan ducted to exterior
Appliances
Refrigerator Operating
Dishwasher Operated
Range/ Oven /Cook-tops Gas and electric
Disposer Operated
Kitchen sink disposers are not recommended on septic systems. Refrain from using except for the items that get away from you.
General Kitchen Condition
Standard
Powder Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Complete repairs to the power bathroom toilet - these were happening at the time of inspection.
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
None noted
Bathroom Ventilation
Type Bath fan
General Bath Condition
Standard
During inspection today I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for concealed leaks and sounded for loose tile and finishes in shower and tub enclosures. I do not test bathtub overflow drains as this risks damaging finishes around the tub. Monitor tubs while filling and avoid pushing water into the overflow. Even well-installed overflow drains can leak as the gaskets that seal the overflow will dry out over time and may no longer provide a watertight seal. Monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents less stress on plumbing than daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
Family Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Slow drains were noted at the bathroom sinks indicating that the drains are likely obstructed. Have these drains further evaluated and repaired needed by a plumbing contractor - seems like most of the drains need a cleaning.
The waste plumbing below the family bathroom sink has a scaling build-up that indicates prior leaks. No leakage was found at the time of inspection. Monitor and repair as needed.
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
Bathroom Ventilation
Type Fan and window
General Bath Condition
Standard
Master Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
The tile and grout should be cleaned and sealed with grout sealer to prevent water damage to the tile - see especially inside shower surrounds - master bath. This should be a routine procedure with tile unless epoxy grout was used. If this is not done in epoxy grout plan on annual cleaning and sealing tile grout inside the shower surrounds to prolong the useful life of the tile. Prior to sealing, replace any failing caulking at inside corners. The sanded caulking works well and can be selected to match existing grout.
The master bathtub drain is slow and appears to be obstructed. Hire a plumber to further evaluate this drain line and repair for adequate drainage.
Bathroom Ventilation
Type Fan and window
General Bath Condition
Standard
Crawl Space
Crawl Space Access
Method of Inspection Crawled
The crawl space access hatch should be insulated and weather stripped to prevent heat loss and air leakage.
Vapor Barrier
Vapor Barrier Material Plastic on earth
Crawl Space Ventilation
Ventilation Method Exterior wall vents
Posts and Footings
Standard
Insulation
Insulation Type Fiberglass
Approximate R-Value R-19
The sub-floor insulation in the crawl space is incomplete and requires repair - see also some moderate rodent damage. Be sure the entire sub-floor is insulated. When making repairs it is best to seal any noticeable air leaks between the crawl space and the living space. Check all penetrations through the floor.
Moisture Conditions
Some signs
Invoice -- Residential Inspection
Inspection with digital report | $695.00 |
$695.00 |
Orca Inspection Services LLC
C/O Dylan Chalk
5761 NE Tolo Rd
Bainbridge Island, WA , WA 98110
(206) 713-5715