The Scope and Purpose of a Home Inspection
Purchasing property involves risk
The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a structure by providing a professional opinion about the overall condition of the structure. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we don’t know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend that you attend the inspection.
A home inspection is not an insurance policy
This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Home warranties can be purchased separately from insuring firms that provide this service.
A home inspection is visual and not destructive
The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing which will limit the scope of the inspection.
This is not an inspection for code compliance
This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction process structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, and this limits the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are augmented at least every three years for all of the varying disciplines. Municipalities can choose to adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their own timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done.
This is just our opinion
Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are the opinions of the home inspector. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have some differing opinions. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals.
The scope of this inspection
This inspection will include the following systems: exterior, roof, structure, drainage, foundation, attic, interior, plumbing, electrical and heating. The evaluation will be based on limited observations that are primarily visual and non-invasive. This inspection and report are not intended to be technically exhaustive.
Your expectations
The overall goal of a home inspection is to help ensure that your expectations are appropriate with the house you are proposing to buy. To this end we assist with discovery by showing and documenting observations during the home inspection. This should not be mistaken for a technically exhaustive inspection designed to uncover every defect with a building. Such inspections are available but they are generally cost-prohibitive to most homebuyers.
Your participation is requested
Your presence is requested during this inspection. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by a shared visual observation of the conditions of the property.
How to Read This Report
Getting the Information to You
This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a quick look at our "Summary Page” and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos and hot links to additional information.
The best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online, which will allow you to expand your learning about your house. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined – clicking on these will provide you with a link to additional information.
This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document.
Chapters and Sections
This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.
Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there may be no narrative observation comments in that section and it may simply say “tested,” or “inspected.”
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
- Major Concern:Repair items that may cost significant money to correct now or in the near future, or items that require immediate attention to prevent additional damage or eliminate safety hazards.
- Repair:Repair and maintenance items noted during inspection. Please note that some repair items can be expensive to correct such as re-finishing hardwood floors, but are considered simply repair items due to their cosmetic nature.
- Recommended Maintenance:These are repair items that should be considered "routine home ownership items," such as servicing the furnace, cleaning the gutters or changing the air filters in the furnace.
- Improve:Observations that are not necessarily defects, but which could be improved for safety, efficiency, or reliability reasons.
- Monitor:Items that should be watched to see if correction may be needed in the future.
- Due Diligence:Observation such as a buried oil tank that may require further investigation to determine the severity and / or urgency of repair.
- Future Project:A repair that may be deferred for some time but should be on the radar for repair or replacement in the near future.
- Efficiency:Denotes observations that are needed to make the home more energy efficient as well as to bring the home up to modern insulation standards. This category typically includes windows and insulation. Other items, such as lighting and appliances, are not inspected for their energy status.
- Completed:Items that were initially an issue but have since been completed.
- Note:Refers to aside information and /or any comments elaborating on descriptions of systems in the home or limitations to the home inspection.
- Description:Detailed description of various aspects of the property noted during the inspection.
Pest Inspection
All items with the bug logo (
) are part of a structural pest inspection. If your inspector included a structural pest inspection as a part of the scope of your home inspection, you can distinguish pest inspection items by this logo. You can also go to the pest inspection summary page to see a summary of the items that are part of a pest inspection.
Summary Page
The Summary Page is designed as a bulleted overview of all the observations noted during inspection. This helpful overview is not a substitution for reading the entire inspection report. The entire report must be read to get a complete understanding of this inspection report as the Summary Page does not include photographs or photo captions.
Moisture Meter Testing
Where moisture meter testing is indicated in this report aFlir MR 40 or Electrophysics CT-100 was used.
Summary
Repairs
- RPWDO-1 Rodents, Pests and Wood Destroying Organisms:
Mild to moderate rodent contamination was noted in the crawlspace, attic, and main garage in the form of rodent feces. Hire a rodent control specialist to eliminate and seal all openings and set and monitor traps. Once all rodents have been sealed out all contaminated insulation and construction materials should be remediated. On-going baiting and trapping as well as control of vegetation and elimination of food sources on the exterior of the home are often needed to prevent rodent problems / infestations. Keeping all trees pruned 6 feet off the house is recommended.
- RPWDO-3 Rodents, Pests and Wood Destroying Organisms:
An active bees nest or wasp nest was noted in the attic. Treatment and removal is recommended.
- G-1 Grounds:
Mortar is failing in the flagstone and/or tile patio. Recommend further evaluation and repair or replace as needed.
- RA-3 Roof/Attic:
This wood shake roof is into the 2nd half of its useful service life. It is common to do roof tune ups with older shake roofs to prolong their useful service life. Tune ups are typically done until roughly 10% of the shakes are in failure. Once this point is reached, it is usually more cost effective to replace the roof. The roof here still has useful remaining life - probably about 5-10 years. I would expect the need to do on-going tune-up work as this is common with older cedar shake roofs. At the time of inspection I noted a few tune-up items that are not urgent, but should be on the radar:
- Multiple shakes popping up.
- RA-7 Roof/Attic:
The insulated glass units for the bonus room skylights (2) have failed, meaning there is visible moisture and condensation trapped between the panes of glass. Though this does not significantly impact the performance (other than a reduced thermal efficiency effect of the glass unit), it is primarily a cosmetic defect, the cloudiness cannot be cleaned. This will require glass replacement to correct. Hire a glass replacement company to further evaluate the skylights and replace all glazing with lost seals.
- RA-11 Roof/Attic:
One of the downspouts on the gutter system is missing and requires immediate replacement to insure proper control of roof runoff and prevent water damage to the home.
- EG-3 Exterior/Garage:
Several areas of soffit vent screen were noted to be loose, missing and in need to repair to prevent bird and rodent entry.
- EG-4 Exterior/Garage:
The exterior south side doors are not latching well and require adjustment so they close properly. Recommend tune up and regular oil maintenance.
- EG-6 Exterior/Garage:
The main overhead garage door failed to close when testing and requires repair. The door appears to be binding with the automatic opener and the door is not closing consistently. Have this door serviced and repaired as recommended by a qualified garage door specialist.
- E-4 Electrical:
The main electric panel in the west garage, had a could of wires that are not terminated, and had not wire nuts to protect them. Recommend a licensed electrician further evaluate and repair (e.g. cap off wires and secure).
- E-5 Electrical:
While on site have a licensed electrician evaluate the electrical sub panel. There appeared to be a AFCI circuit that was over fused. The MBR AFCI circuit appeared to be drawing more current than what a 15amp circuit should be drawing. Basically, this means that whatever is connected on this circuit (appliances, in floor heat, etc.) is near or above the 15amp circuit breaker and wiring capabilities (#14 gauge).
- E-6 Electrical:
Panel screws are missing to the sub electric panel. Replace the missing screws with the short and blunt screws only.
- E-7 Electrical:
The use of GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) protection is inconsistent with modern minimum standards for safety - see laundry outlets. GFCI protection is recommended for the electrical receptacles in the following locations: the two dedicated kitchen appliance circuits, all receptacles within 6 feet of a sink, bathrooms, exterior, garage, unfinished basements, laundry and all wet and damp locations. GFCI's protect against electrocution by limiting the duration of an electrical shock. These are an important modern safety feature that have proven to save lives. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and update GFCI protection for improved safety.
- E-8 Electrical:
The missing cover plates to electric receptacles and switches should be installed to cover all access to wiring at switches and receptacles.
- E-9 Electrical:
The GFCI protected receptacle in the bonus room wet bar did not respond to testing and may be defective - it did not trip when tested. Have this receptacle repaired or replaced as needed.
- E-11 Electrical:
Multiple inoperative lights were noted: This is likely due to bulbs being burned out, but could be due to an inoperative fixture, circuit or switch. Replace bulbs or repair lights as needed.
- E-15 Electrical:
The ceiling fan in the bonus room appeared to not work. Remote was not present. Recommend asking sellers about how to operate the ceiling fan. And repair or replace as necessary.
- E-17 Electrical:
The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death. For more information, consult the Consumer Product Safety Commission at 1-800-638-2772 (C.P.S.C.) Modern standards in many states now recommend one CO alarm outside of all bedrooms and at least 1 per floor of the house.
- P-4 Plumbing:
The supply pipe insulation is incomplete in the crawl space. Be sure all supply lines in unheated spaces have been adequately insulated to protect from freezing conditions that could damage the pipes and to prevent heat loss.
- P-8 Plumbing:
The sewer scope condition had the following findings:
Main Line Condition:
- Areas viewable appeared serviceable. Line was holding waste and toilet paper on first scope, grease build up on camera lens prevented me from being able to get a clear view of the line condition.
- The second scope, which is the video attached, no visible defects were noted, other than the section of SDR 35 clean out stub, having a bend in it, which will not effect the sewer line condition.
Recommendations:
- Proper clean-outs should be provided / added. A clean out outside of foundation is advisable, as was unable to scope from the foundation to the clean out by the property line.
- The main sewer line/pipe should be cleaned of scale / hydro-jetted and all sections of sewer line re-inspected with a camera before the inspection objection deadline, Real Estate contract deadline date; please consult with your Real Estate Professional / Realtor.
Limitiations:
- A clean out outside of foundation is advisable, as was unable to scope from the foundation to the clean out by the property line.
- The camera could not advance past 82 feet and was not able to reach city tap/ pump, the sewer scope / inspection is limited to areas viewed.
To view the video's click here: https://youtu.be/MFkF5eETiSw
- P-9 Plumbing:
An active leak was found at the water heater. This Water Heater needs to be replaced as soon as possible to prevent damage to the home. Hire a licensed plumber to replace this water heater as soon as possible.
- P-11 Plumbing:
The discharge tube relief valve for the Water Heater appears to be leaking, a small drip leak was noted. Sometimes this can be fixed by blowing off the discharge tube but this is risky as it can get stuck open and necessitate replacement - as such I do not try and repair this during inspection. Have this leaking TPR valve repaired as needed by a licensed plumber.
- P-12 Plumbing:
This water heater is likely close to the end of its useful service life. The average life of these water heaters is 8-12 years. Budget to replace this water heater at any time. The hot water was operating at the time of inspection.
- LAP-5 Laundry and Additional Plumbing:
The dryer exhaust duct termination at the exterior of the building is covered with a screen. This is a safety hazard that could block lint and cause a fire. Replace this vent cover with a cover that has a baffle.
- LAP-7 Laundry and Additional Plumbing:
Foil dryer exhaust duct was noted in use to connect the dryer to the rigid vent. This product is not recommended as it has proven to be unreliable and a potential fire hazard. A corrugated metal flex duct is recommended.
- LAP-10 Laundry and Additional Plumbing:
Water storage tank was missing at time of the inspection. Recommend installing, and testing prior to closing.
- HCFV-1 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
Annual servicing is recommended for safe and reliable performance from this water heating radiant floor system. Records indicate that this boiler has not been serviced in the last year. The boiler was tested during inspection and was operational. Hire a licensed heating contractor to service and further evaluate the boiler. Examples of observations noted during inspection include:
- Active leak noted at water heater system.
- Appears to be the original unit from 2005, which is near or at end of its useful life
- The taco controller is rusting.
- P-Trap dirty for condensate, needs cleaning
- HCFV-2 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
The hot water heating system here appears to be set up as an open loop system - this means you have one hot water heating appliance serving both the heating system and domestic hot water supply and that the same water is shared between these two systems. It is important that there be a timer to flush the heating pipes daily in an open loop system to prevent stagnant water from building up in the heating pipes that could be flushed into the domestic water supply. This can be potentially problematic if the pump stops performing as there is a danger of Legionella developing in the pipes - this is the bacteria that causes Legionnaires' disease. There is also evidence that open loop systems can be more corrosive and problematic than closed loop systems. During servicing of this heating system, I recommend consulting with a qualified heating contractor about options and potential costs to turn this system into a closed loop system.
- HCFV-10 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
The outdoor gas fireplace was shut off at the time of inspection. I do not like to light these when they are shut off as I do not know why they were shut off and there could be a safety reason. I recommend having this gas fireplace cleaned and serviced by a qualified contractor and made operable as needed.
- I-1 Interior:
Repair the failing mortar / grout in the tile floor to prevent tiles from becoming loose and physically damaged. Please note that this can be an indication of poor tile preparation below the tile.
- I-2 Interior:
Baseboard trim in the pantry appears to have been damaged, this is cosmetic but probably needs to be repaired for proper finish.
- I-4 Interior:
The window is not latching correctly and requires repair or adjustment so the window operates smoothly and latches.
- K-9 Kitchen:
Water was noted to be backing up out of the air gap when the main dishwasher was draining. This is not the intended function of this device and it could cause water damage on the countertop and around the sink. Hire a licensed plumber to repair ASAP to prevent water damage.
- MFPB-1 Main Floor Powder Bathroom:
A slow drain was noted at the powder bathroom vessel sink indicating that the drain maybe obstructed, or there is a venting issue. Have these drains further evaluated and repaired by a plumbing contractor.
- CS-2 Crawl Space:
The crawl space access hatch does not look rodent proof. Rebuilding is recommended to eliminate a rodent entry point. A nice way to seal the opening is to build a frame of pressure treated wood that fits snugly into the opening in the foundation and then cover this with 1/4 wire mesh.
- CS-6 Crawl Space:
The sub-floor insulation in the crawl space has been damaged by rodents - this was pretty minor, just a few loose and damaged bits. Remove all rodent contaminated insulation and re-insulate. This work should be done in conjunction with other rodent remediation measures. Once clean-up is complete, I would set and monitor some traps to see if additional exclusion work is needed.
Recommended Maintenance Items
- G-2 Grounds:
All trees, branches and vegetation should be pruned at least six inches away from the building to eliminate a condition conducive to wood destroying organisms and a path for rodent entry.
- RA-2 Roof/Attic:
Clean organic debris from the roof to ensure unrestricted paths for roof drainage. This is routine maintenance that should be part of a regular maintenance schedule.
- RA-9 Roof/Attic:
The downspouts on this house have clean-out filters; be sure to keep these filters / screens clean.
- P-15 Plumbing:
This building has hot water provided by a tankless Water Heater. Annual flushing is typically recommended for these types of water heaters to insure safe and reliable performance. I recommend having this water heater professionally serviced annually as a part of routine scheduled maintenance.
- LAP-4 Laundry and Additional Plumbing:
The dryer ducts are dirty and needs to be cleaned for improved safety. This is important regular maintenance to eliminate a potential fire hazard.
- HCFV-4 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
The vegetation around the air conditioner compressor should be pruned away to allow adequate air flow to the system.
- I-5 Interior:
In many of the casement window there appeared to be bugs nests. No visible damage was noted, but it appears that this may be a quarterly maintenance task.
- UB-1 Upstairs Bathroom:
The tile and grout should be cleaned and sealed with grout sealer to prevent water damage to the tile - see especially inside shower surrounds. This should be a routine procedure with tile unless epoxy grout was used. If this is not done in epoxy grout plan on cleaning and sealing tile grout inside the shower surround annually to prolong the useful life of the tile.
- UB-2 Upstairs Bathroom:
Maintenance is needed to protect the tile shower surrounds. The tile and grout in the bathroom shower surrounds should be cleaned and sealed with grout sealer to prevent water damage to the tile. This is important regular maintenance to insure reliable service life from your tile installation. All loose and failing caulking and grout should be repaired. For inside corners, sanded caulking is recommended. This caulking can be purchased to match the tile grout and will expand and contract and resist cracking. Please note that tile is difficult to inspect visually. The reliability of a tile installation depends on what the tile is mounted on and what it is mounted with: none of this is visible to inspection.
- MB1-1 Master Bathroom:
The tile and grout should be cleaned and sealed with grout sealer to prevent water damage to the tile - see especially inside shower surrounds. This should be a routine procedure with tile unless epoxy grout was used. If this is not done in epoxy grout plan on cleaning and sealing tile grout inside the shower surround annually to prolong the useful life of the tile.
- MB1-2 Master Bathroom:
Maintenance is needed to protect the tile shower surrounds. The tile and grout in the bathroom shower surrounds should be cleaned and sealed with grout sealer to prevent water damage to the tile. This is important regular maintenance to insure reliable service life from your tile installation. All loose and failing caulking and grout should be repaired. For inside corners, sanded caulking is recommended. This caulking can be purchased to match the tile grout and will expand and contract and resist cracking. Please note that tile is difficult to inspect visually. The reliability of a tile installation depends on what the tile is mounted on and what it is mounted with: none of this is visible to inspection.
- GB-1 Guest Bathroom:
The tile and grout should be cleaned and sealed with grout sealer to prevent water damage to the tile - see especially inside shower surrounds. This should be a routine procedure with tile unless epoxy grout was used. If this is not done in epoxy grout plan on cleaning and sealing tile grout inside the shower surround annually to prolong the useful life of the tile.
- GB-2 Guest Bathroom:
Maintenance is needed to protect the tile shower surrounds. The tile and grout in the bathroom shower surrounds should be cleaned and sealed with grout sealer to prevent water damage to the tile. This is important regular maintenance to insure reliable service life from your tile installation. All loose and failing caulking and grout should be repaired. For inside corners, sanded caulking is recommended. This caulking can be purchased to match the tile grout and will expand and contract and resist cracking. Please note that tile is difficult to inspect visually. The reliability of a tile installation depends on what the tile is mounted on and what it is mounted with: none of this is visible to inspection.
- CS-5 Crawl Space:
Crawl space vents are currently blocked by organic debris in places. Remove leaves and soils from the crawl space vents to insure the vents remain unobstructed to allow proper ventilation of the crawl space.
Improves
- RA-4 Roof/Attic:
Kickout flashings are missing at all roof to wall junction. Kick out flashings divert rain water down into gutter, as compared to down the siding, for example during wind driven rain. Recommend repair.
- RA-6 Roof/Attic:
I recommend having a cricket flashing installed for the chimneys to divert water around the chimney. The current installation is vulnerable to leaks as the entire roof drains toward the chimney. Please note that modern standards require chimney cricket flashings when the chimney is at the bottom of a roof and more than 30 inches wide.
- RA-8 Roof/Attic:
Several of the downspouts on the upper gutter system are terminating onto the lower roof. This is industry standard practice but it will prematurely deteriorate the roofing shingles in these locations. I recommend extending the downspouts into lower gutters to better protect the roof.
- EG-5 Exterior/Garage:
An older model garage door opener was noted with no laser eyes in use as a safety feature. These are less safe than modern openers which will reverse when the laser beam is broken. This safety feature is especially important for children and pets. Updating the garage door opener is recommended for improved safety.
- LAP-2 Laundry and Additional Plumbing:
For improved reliability, update the old water supply connectors to the washing machine. These are old and should be regularly swapped out to prevent accidental leaks from bursting hoses. Consider improving the reliability of this water supply by installing a flood safe hose system.
Monitors
- GC-3 General Comments:
This home has been vacant and/or unoccupied. An unoccupied home, when fixtures and facilities are seldom in use, a small or concealed plumbing leak might not be readily apparent. Since the inspector runs a limited amount of water, clients moving into an unoccupied property are encouraged to run significant quantities of water and to be lookout for subtle problems. If/as necessary, consult with a licensed plumber. In instances where plumbing issues are referenced in a report, I advise clients to arrange for a professional assessment of fixtures and plumbing systems.
- RPWDO-4 Rodents, Pests and Wood Destroying Organisms:
This house is set in a wooded area. Monitor during warm weather for carpenter ants - they would be very common here as this is their habitat. If you see large black ants, contact a pest control operator for treatment advice. Carpenter ants are both seasonal and nocturnal so they can be difficult to find during a home inspection. The organic way to control carpenter ants is to eliminate conducive conditions. These are conditions that could lead to wet wood. Try and eliminate all wood / soil contact; be sure gutters and downspouts are performing well and keep vegetation cut back away from the house.
- RA-10 Roof/Attic:
The gutter system on this building is done with a cap / gutter guard system to prevent clogging. This cap can get blocked up with organic debris and needs to be cleaned periodically. This system often works well during light rains but gutter and roof cleaning is still needed and during heavy rains these cap systems can allow water to shed right off the gutter.
- EG-2 Exterior/Garage:
No head flashings were provided for some of the mounting blocks; these are designed to prevent water from running behind the mounting blocks and are generally more reliable than caulking. This will be difficult to repair at this time. Monitor and repair as needed.
- P-13 Plumbing:
This water heater is likely close to the end of its useful service lives. The average life of these water heaters can vary widely between 8-20 years depending on water quality and maintenance schedule such as frequency of flushing system. Budget to replace this water heater at any time. Water was hot at the time of inspection.
- K-10 Kitchen:
Water was noted to have leaking at the kitchen disposal in the past, noted by rust stains. No water was noted at time of inspection. Recommend monitoring, and and repair or replace when needed by a licensed plumber.
- CS-7 Crawl Space:
The crawl space was dry at the time of inspection. It is always a good idea to monitor crawl spaces to see how they perform regarding drainage.
Due Diligences
- GC-2 General Comments:
The home inspection is only part of the process that purchasers participate in when buying a property. Clients should study Form 17 sellers disclosure statement and as applicable, follow up on the information therein. Sellers, an exception being some bank owned properties, estates, etc. are obligated to disclose known deficiencies with the building or the lot. Those deficiencies may not be observable at the time of the inspection; for example, signs of past moisture, flooding or matters involving pests. --Sometimes it can be difficult to differentiate between kit buildings, modular homes and other factory assembled structures-- Due diligence on part of the clients includes studying of the Form 17, verifying listing information and data that is available form the Whatcom County Assessor's Office.
- GC-5 General Comments:
Based on the inspection industry's definition of a recommended water test for "functional drainage" in a plumbing system, the plumbing drain pipes, appear operational at this time. However, only a video-scan of the interior of drainpipes and drain lines can fully confirm their actual condition. When the house is vacant, the plumbing system is older, there are prior known drain problems, or there are large trees on the grounds, it would be prudent to have the drain lines "video-scanned" prior to closing.
- RPWDO-2 Rodents, Pests and Wood Destroying Organisms:
Rodent bait stations were noted around the exterior today. This is evidence of prior rodent problems. I recommend inquiring with the seller to see the extent and scope of prior rodent control work.
- RA-5 Roof/Attic:
The NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) recommends an annual inspection of all chimneys, fireplaces, solid fuel-burning appliances, and vents. They also recommend an NFPA 211 Standard, Level II inspection upon sale or transfer of the property. A Level II inspection includes, not only cleaning the interior of the chimney pipe, but also the use of specialized tools and testing procedures such as video cameras, etc. to thoroughly evaluate the serviceability of the entire flue lining and fireplace/chimney system. If one has not been performed over the past 12 months, such an inspection is recommended before home changes ownership---for fire safety reasons.
- E-18 Electrical:
Inquire with the seller for any additional information about the low voltage lighting system. These are beyond the scope of this inspection but I noted a transformer at the exterior: what are these for?
- P-6 Plumbing:
A PVC pipe was noted in the crawlspace with a p-trap and appeared to be terminating into an opening in the slab. Recommend asking seller what this drain pipe services?
- P-7 Plumbing:
An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. Due to the age and location of the building, a sewer scope is recommended to further evaluate the sewer line.
- LAP-8 Laundry and Additional Plumbing:
An exterior irrigation system was noted for this home. Sprinkler systems are beyond the scope of this inspection. My own experience with irrigation systems is that they require annual attention / repair / servicing after every winter. Inquire with the seller for any information about how to winterize this system as this should be done prior to cold weather. When testing the system, be sure sprinkler heads are adjusted so the system is not watering the side of the house. Hire a specialist to further evaluate this system as desired.
- LAP-11 Laundry and Additional Plumbing:
A water feature was noted for the property. Recommend asking seller about this installation. The feature appearer winterized. Recommend having made operable prior to closing.
- HCFV-6 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
I did not get a reliable or accurate test of the heated floors today - observations were incomplete. Thermostats were turn up as soon as we came into the house, but some areas were still not showing a temperature change by the end of the inspection. It was unclear why some of the zones did not seem to come on: this could be related to how we manipulated the thermostats today or perhaps they needed more time. Some of these systems can be slow to respond to requests from the thermostat. I recommend a servicing of the boiler and distribution system just to verify the system is performing as intended.
- HCFV-9 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
The outdoor heaters were not tested during the inspection. Recommend asking sellers for information about how to use; and repair if needed, make operable prior to closing.
- K-6 Kitchen:
No ice was noted in the wet bar ice maker. I was unable to see if there is any plumbing to this appliance. Inquire with the seller for additional information and repair / make operable as needed.
- K-7 Kitchen:
The bonus room wine fridge and refrigerator were off or not working at time of inspection. Inquire with the seller for additional information and repair / make operable as needed.
- K-8 Kitchen:
The built in coffee machine was off at the time of inspection, and is excluded from the inspection. Recommend Inquire with the seller for additional information and repair / make operable as needed.
- CS-4 Crawl Space:
The crawl space is employing a fan system to ventilate the crawl space. Inquire with the seller for any operating instructions? In this case I noted a humidity thermostats, I suspect this may be the control for the fan.
Future Projects
- HCFV-3 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
The air condition system and associate condensate control system could not be tested during inspection. Outdoor temperatures must exceed 65 degrees or the air conditioning equipment can be damaged by testing. I recommended having this system serviced and inspected prior to the next cooling season.
Efficiencies
- RA-16 Roof/Attic:
The attic insulation could be improved to modern standards, which recommend R-49 on the floor and R-21 on walls. R-value is the measure of resistance to heat loss; the higher the R-value the better the insulation. During insulation repairs it is best practices to implement any air seal-up repairs to seal air leakage. Also, be sure you have completed any wiring or other projects that are needed in the attic. Then, hire an insulation contractor to improve thermal barriers.
- P-5 Plumbing:
I noted that the water heating system has a circulation pump. This appeared to be operating at the time of inspection. For improved efficiency these are often put on timers so the pump can be timed to go off at night and in the middle of the day. I did not see a timer set up for this pump.
Notes
- GC-1 General Comments:
This house was vacant / unoccupied at the time of inspection. Vacant and unoccupied houses present unique challenges for home inspection, especially the piping and wiring systems which have not be subject to regular use prior to the inspection. While these systems can be tested during inspection, this one-time test is quite different than regular use and it is difficult to know how these systems will respond to regular use after the inspection. For example, septic systems may initially function and then fail under regular daily use. Plumbing traps may operate with no signs of leaks and then let go when being actively used for a few days. Shower pans may only leak when someone is standing in the shower and taking a shower. Seals for plumbing fixtures can dry up and leak when not is use. Sewer lines with roots may allow water flow, but then fail when waste and tissue are flushed; it can take a few days for that to backup. Please understand we are trying our best to look for clues of past or existing problems to paint a realistic best-guess as to the reliability of these systems during inspection.
- GC-4 General Comments:
Prior to closing, I recommend you verify the operation of all appliances that are being included with the house. Additionally, you might consider an appliance warranty program, to protect from unforeseen costs of repairing aging appliances.
- RA-1 Roof/Attic:
Please note that the roof could not be fully inspected due to slippery and unsafe conditions on the steep cedar shake roof. The roof is too steep to walk safely with pine needle debris on roof. Thus this limited my ability to fully inspect the roof.
- RA-12 Roof/Attic:
There is no ramp or safe way to access the attic space. Crawling through insulation and on top of framing risks damaging thermal barriers and ceiling finishes and is not a safe way to access an attic. This limited inspection of this space.
- RA-13 Roof/Attic:
Note that this house is all most all vaulted ceiling - thus there is no attic space and no access to inspect roof framing, thermal barriers or fans exhaust ductwork for most of the house.
- RA-14 Roof/Attic:
I inspected the attic space today and no red flags were noted regarding prior moisture build-up or relative humidity. Venting appeared unrestricted where visible. Wood has a nice bright color indicating no prior moisture problems with relative humidity or heat migration into the attic.
- RA-15 Roof/Attic:
I was unable to preform a visual inspection of attic insulation levels today as the ceiling here is mostly vaulted ceiling. This limited the inspection.
- EG-7 Exterior/Garage:
Extensive storage in the garage inhibited the view of most of the garage and limited visual inspection of this space.
- E-3 Electrical:
Electrical Main disconnect noted in west garage, this could be for the east garage? Recommend asking seller?
- E-10 Electrical:
Please note that the GFCI reset button for exterior patio outlets is the north outlet.
- E-12 Electrical:
Please note that the GFCI reset button for exterior outlets is in the garage.
- E-13 Electrical:
Please note that the GFCI reset button for kitchen outlets is in the pantry, and back splash.
- E-14 Electrical:
Please note that the GFCI reset button for bathrooms is in the guest bathroom.
- E-16 Electrical:
Please note that there is a GFCI reset button for some unknown electrical in the east upstairs bedroom closet. Recommend asking seller about.
- E-19 Electrical:
A "smart box" low-voltage wiring panel and a smart house wiring was noted. This is designed to house the low voltage CATV and phone wires, and control lighting and other appliances (e.g. fireplaces). Home owners will often use these to create in house networks for internet and communication devices and may locate internet routers here. Inspection of low voltage wiring and communication wiring is beyond the scope of this inspection. Inquire with the seller for any additional information.
- P-14 Plumbing:
In 2015, the federal government updated minimum standards for the energy efficiency of water heaters. This article will help you understand how this could impact your next water heater purchase. https://getscribeware.com/blog/federal-government-changed-next-water-heater/
- LAP-1 Laundry and Additional Plumbing:
A moisture alarm with water shut-off features is recommended under the washing machine to protect against accidental leaks in the supply hoses. Pans can be effective when there is a drain, but even these will not protect against a burst supply connector. A moisture alarm with automatic shut-off will. Watts is a brand I have seen installed: http://www.watts.com/pages/learnAbout/intelliflow.asp?catId=
There are also some new technologies available that can monitor and protect our whole house from leaks and indoor humidity problems: See http://www.wallyhome.com/ as an example of such a device.
- LAP-3 Laundry and Additional Plumbing:
Basic rules of thumb for dryer vent installation: The vent must terminate outdoors; it should be no more than 25 feet. For every 90 degree turn subtract 5 feet and for every 45 degree bend subtract 2.5 feet. Use only smooth-wall metal vent in 4 inch pipe diameter only. Do not use plastic pipe and plastic flex pipe. If a flexible connector is needed at the dryer use a short amount of corrugated metal pipe. Flex and corrugated pipes should never be used in concealed spaces such as through walls or in crawl spaces. Insulate dryer duct in unconditioned spaces to prevent condensation that could facilitate lint build-up inside the pipe. Do not use screws to connect pipe as these can trap lint - secure duct with foil tape as needed. Be sure duct is sleeved properly so that it will not trap lint.
- LAP-9 Laundry and Additional Plumbing:
A water filtration system was noted in the house - see by the water shut off. Evaluation of this system and water quality is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend inquiring with the seller for any maintenance, warranty or installer information that pertains to this system. If the system has not been serviced recently, have the filter system serviced and filters cleaned or replaced as a part of the recommended maintenance schedule.
- HCFV-5 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
I was unable to test the heating distribution during inspection today. This limited the scope of this inspection. One the heating system is operational, I recommend verify that the distribution system is functioning as intended.
- HCFV-7 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
Thermal images show the radiant floor system operating during inspection.
- HCFV-8 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
This house has a timer for a whole house fan. This timer is designed to make a fan come on periodically to exhaust interior air, facilitate air changes and help keep the indoor relative humidity in check. As a general rule, keep relative humidity below 55% in cold weather to reduce chances for condensation.
- SB-1 Structure and Basement:
Signs of seismic protection noted during inspection. This inspection is not a cohesive analysis of seismic engineering, but I do look for signs of seismic protection.
- I-3 Interior:
During inspection today I inspected the headers and sills around all windows where accessible. I spot checked around windows using a moisture meter. No water stains, signs of leakage or elevated readings were found. This is good. It is always a good practice to monitor any exposed windows, especially those with south and west exposures to check for leaks during heavy wind-driven rains.
- I-6 Interior:
This is a modern energy efficient house. These types of houses require mechanical ventilation to help reduce indoor relative humidity, especially during winter months. Inquire with the builder to explain and set the house ventilation system. The goal is to keep indoor relative humidity below 55% in winter months.
- K-5 Kitchen:
The Insta-Hot hot water fixture in the kitchen was operational during inspection
- K-11 Kitchen:
This home has quality appliances which can be expensive to service. You may want to look into some of the available appliance warranty programs.
- MFPB-2 Main Floor Powder Bathroom:
During inspection today I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms and sinks. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for hidden leaks. I also sounded for loose tile and laminate in shower and tub enclosures. I felt for loose waste pipe below sinks and where accessible and checked for leaks below sinks. I do not test over-flow drains as this is beyond the scope of a home inspection. It is always best practice to monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents significantly less stress on plumbing than daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
- MB1-3 Master Bathroom:
During inspection today I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms and sinks. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for hidden leaks. I also sounded for loose tile and laminate in shower and tub enclosures. I felt for loose waste pipe below sinks and where accessible and checked for leaks below sinks. I do not test over-flow drains as this is beyond the scope of a home inspection. It is always best practice to monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents significantly less stress on plumbing than daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
- CS-3 Crawl Space:
During inspection today I was able to crawl the entire crawl space. The sub-floor has been insulated so I pulled insulation back in places to inspect the sub-floor, rim joist and floor frame. Please note that most of the framing was concealed from view by insulation.
General Comments
Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations
Style of Home: Ranch
Type of Building : Single Family (2-story)
Approximate Square Footage: 4675
Approximate Year of Original Construction: 2006
Attending the Inspection: Buyer and Buyer's Agent, Listing Agent
Occupancy: Unoccupied
Animals Present: No
Weather during the inspection: Cloudy, Clear
Approximate temperature during the inspection: Below 65[F]
Ground/Soil surface conditions: Dry
For the Purposes of This Report, the Front Door Faces: North
This house was vacant / unoccupied at the time of inspection. Vacant and unoccupied houses present unique challenges for home inspection, especially the piping and wiring systems which have not be subject to regular use prior to the inspection. While these systems can be tested during inspection, this one-time test is quite different than regular use and it is difficult to know how these systems will respond to regular use after the inspection. For example, septic systems may initially function and then fail under regular daily use. Plumbing traps may operate with no signs of leaks and then let go when being actively used for a few days. Shower pans may only leak when someone is standing in the shower and taking a shower. Seals for plumbing fixtures can dry up and leak when not is use. Sewer lines with roots may allow water flow, but then fail when waste and tissue are flushed; it can take a few days for that to backup. Please understand we are trying our best to look for clues of past or existing problems to paint a realistic best-guess as to the reliability of these systems during inspection.
The home inspection is only part of the process that purchasers participate in when buying a property. Clients should study Form 17 sellers disclosure statement and as applicable, follow up on the information therein. Sellers, an exception being some bank owned properties, estates, etc. are obligated to disclose known deficiencies with the building or the lot. Those deficiencies may not be observable at the time of the inspection; for example, signs of past moisture, flooding or matters involving pests. --Sometimes it can be difficult to differentiate between kit buildings, modular homes and other factory assembled structures-- Due diligence on part of the clients includes studying of the Form 17, verifying listing information and data that is available form the Whatcom County Assessor's Office.
This home has been vacant and/or unoccupied. An unoccupied home, when fixtures and facilities are seldom in use, a small or concealed plumbing leak might not be readily apparent. Since the inspector runs a limited amount of water, clients moving into an unoccupied property are encouraged to run significant quantities of water and to be lookout for subtle problems. If/as necessary, consult with a licensed plumber. In instances where plumbing issues are referenced in a report, I advise clients to arrange for a professional assessment of fixtures and plumbing systems.
Prior to closing, I recommend you verify the operation of all appliances that are being included with the house. Additionally, you might consider an appliance warranty program, to protect from unforeseen costs of repairing aging appliances.
Based on the inspection industry's definition of a recommended water test for "functional drainage" in a plumbing system, the plumbing drain pipes, appear operational at this time. However, only a video-scan of the interior of drainpipes and drain lines can fully confirm their actual condition. When the house is vacant, the plumbing system is older, there are prior known drain problems, or there are large trees on the grounds, it would be prudent to have the drain lines "video-scanned" prior to closing.
Rodents, Pests and Wood Destroying Organisms
Rodents
Present
Mild to moderate rodent contamination was noted in the crawlspace, attic, and main garage in the form of rodent feces. Hire a rodent control specialist to eliminate and seal all openings and set and monitor traps. Once all rodents have been sealed out all contaminated insulation and construction materials should be remediated. On-going baiting and trapping as well as control of vegetation and elimination of food sources on the exterior of the home are often needed to prevent rodent problems / infestations. Keeping all trees pruned 6 feet off the house is recommended.
Rodent bait stations were noted around the exterior today. This is evidence of prior rodent problems. I recommend inquiring with the seller to see the extent and scope of prior rodent control work.
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Other Pests
Wasps / Bee's (In Attic - Active)
An active bees nest or wasp nest was noted in the attic. Treatment and removal is recommended.
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Wood Destroying Organisms
Visible Evidence of Active Wood Destroying Insects: None noted
Visible Evidence of Inactive Wood Destroying Insects: None noted
Visible Evidence of Damage from Wood Destroying Insects: None noted
Visible Evidence of Active Wood Decay and Fungi: None noted
Visible Evidence of Conditions Conducive to Wood Destroying Organisms: Present, See WDO observations in this report
This house is set in a wooded area. Monitor during warm weather for carpenter ants - they would be very common here as this is their habitat. If you see large black ants, contact a pest control operator for treatment advice. Carpenter ants are both seasonal and nocturnal so they can be difficult to find during a home inspection. The organic way to control carpenter ants is to eliminate conducive conditions. These are conditions that could lead to wet wood. Try and eliminate all wood / soil contact; be sure gutters and downspouts are performing well and keep vegetation cut back away from the house.
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Grounds
Drainage and Lot Location
Clearance to Grade: Standard
Downspout Discharge: Below grade
Site Description: Flat
Driveways/Walkways/Flatwork
Driveway: Concrete, Pavers
Walkways: Flagstone, Concrete, Pavers
Patios: Concrete, Flagstone, Tile
Mortar is failing in the flagstone and/or tile patio. Recommend further evaluation and repair or replace as needed.
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Window and Stairwells
None Noted
Grounds, Trees and Vegetation
Trees/Vegetation too near building: Yes
All trees, branches and vegetation should be pruned at least six inches away from the building to eliminate a condition conducive to wood destroying organisms and a path for rodent entry.
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Retaining Walls
Retaining Wall Material: Stone
Exterior Stairs
Standard
Fences
None noted
Carports and Outbuildings
None noted
Roof/Attic
Roof Materials
Method of Roof Inspection: Walked on roof, Viewed at top of ladder, Could not view - too tall and steep
Roof Style: Gable
Flashings: Present and Visually Standard
Roof Covering Materials: Wood shake
Approximate Age of Roof Covering: 14-16 Years
Overlay Roof: No
Please note that the roof could not be fully inspected due to slippery and unsafe conditions on the steep cedar shake roof. The roof is too steep to walk safely with pine needle debris on roof. Thus this limited my ability to fully inspect the roof.
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Clean organic debris from the roof to ensure unrestricted paths for roof drainage. This is routine maintenance that should be part of a regular maintenance schedule.
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This wood shake roof is into the 2nd half of its useful service life. It is common to do roof tune ups with older shake roofs to prolong their useful service life. Tune ups are typically done until roughly 10% of the shakes are in failure. Once this point is reached, it is usually more cost effective to replace the roof. The roof here still has useful remaining life - probably about 5-10 years. I would expect the need to do on-going tune-up work as this is common with older cedar shake roofs. At the time of inspection I noted a few tune-up items that are not urgent, but should be on the radar:
- Multiple shakes popping up.
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Kickout flashings are missing at all roof to wall junction. Kick out flashings divert rain water down into gutter, as compared to down the siding, for example during wind driven rain. Recommend repair.
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Chimneys
Present
Chimney Material: Masonry
Chimney Flue Liners: Not visible
The NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) recommends an annual inspection of all chimneys, fireplaces, solid fuel-burning appliances, and vents. They also recommend an NFPA 211 Standard, Level II inspection upon sale or transfer of the property. A Level II inspection includes, not only cleaning the interior of the chimney pipe, but also the use of specialized tools and testing procedures such as video cameras, etc. to thoroughly evaluate the serviceability of the entire flue lining and fireplace/chimney system. If one has not been performed over the past 12 months, such an inspection is recommended before home changes ownership---for fire safety reasons.
I recommend having a cricket flashing installed for the chimneys to divert water around the chimney. The current installation is vulnerable to leaks as the entire roof drains toward the chimney. Please note that modern standards require chimney cricket flashings when the chimney is at the bottom of a roof and more than 30 inches wide.
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Skylights
Insulated curb style
The insulated glass units for the bonus room skylights (2) have failed, meaning there is visible moisture and condensation trapped between the panes of glass. Though this does not significantly impact the performance (other than a reduced thermal efficiency effect of the glass unit), it is primarily a cosmetic defect, the cloudiness cannot be cleaned. This will require glass replacement to correct. Hire a glass replacement company to further evaluate the skylights and replace all glazing with lost seals.
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Gutters and Downspouts
Gutter and Downspout Materials: Seamless Aluminum
Several of the downspouts on the upper gutter system are terminating onto the lower roof. This is industry standard practice but it will prematurely deteriorate the roofing shingles in these locations. I recommend extending the downspouts into lower gutters to better protect the roof.
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The downspouts on this house have clean-out filters; be sure to keep these filters / screens clean.
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The gutter system on this building is done with a cap / gutter guard system to prevent clogging. This cap can get blocked up with organic debris and needs to be cleaned periodically. This system often works well during light rains but gutter and roof cleaning is still needed and during heavy rains these cap systems can allow water to shed right off the gutter.
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One of the downspouts on the gutter system is missing and requires immediate replacement to insure proper control of roof runoff and prevent water damage to the home.
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Attic Access
Viewed at access, No access. Vaulted ceiling
There is no ramp or safe way to access the attic space. Crawling through insulation and on top of framing risks damaging thermal barriers and ceiling finishes and is not a safe way to access an attic. This limited inspection of this space.
Note that this house is all most all vaulted ceiling - thus there is no attic space and no access to inspect roof framing, thermal barriers or fans exhaust ductwork for most of the house.
Roof Framing and Sheathing
Rafters: 2x6, Not visible
Sheathing: Plywood, Not visible
I inspected the attic space today and no red flags were noted regarding prior moisture build-up or relative humidity. Venting appeared unrestricted where visible. Wood has a nice bright color indicating no prior moisture problems with relative humidity or heat migration into the attic.
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Attic Insulation
Insulation Type: Fiberglass
Approximate Insulation R-Value on Attic Floor: 38
Approximate Insulation R-Value on Attic Ceiling: Not visible - vaulted ceiling
Approximate Insulation R-Value on Attic Walls: Not visible
I was unable to preform a visual inspection of attic insulation levels today as the ceiling here is mostly vaulted ceiling. This limited the inspection.
The attic insulation could be improved to modern standards, which recommend R-49 on the floor and R-21 on walls. R-value is the measure of resistance to heat loss; the higher the R-value the better the insulation. During insulation repairs it is best practices to implement any air seal-up repairs to seal air leakage. Also, be sure you have completed any wiring or other projects that are needed in the attic. Then, hire an insulation contractor to improve thermal barriers.
Attic and Roof Cavity Ventilation
Attic Ventilation Method: Soffit vents, Gable vents, Ridge vents
Attic and roof cavity ventilation is a frequently-misunderstood element of residential construction. All roof cavities are required to have ventilation. The general default standard is 1 to 150 of the attic area and ideally, this comes from at least 60% lower roof cavity ventilation and 40% upper, but this is a wild over-simplifications of the subject. As a good guiding principle the most important elements for healthy attic spaces, which are traditionally insulated and ventilated are:
- Make sure the ceiling between the living space and the attic is airtight
- Ventilate consistently across the whole lower part of the roof cavity with low, intake soffit venting
- Upper roof cavity venting is less important and if over-installed can exacerbate air migration into the attic from the living space.
- Avoid power ventilators which can depressurize the attic and exacerbate air migration from the house into the attic.
For more information, please see: Link
Exterior/Garage
Exterior Elevations
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Siding and Trim
Trim Material: Wood
Siding Material: Cedar shingles, Stone
No head flashings were provided for some of the mounting blocks; these are designed to prevent water from running behind the mounting blocks and are generally more reliable than caulking. This will be difficult to repair at this time. Monitor and repair as needed.
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Eaves
Bead board
Several areas of soffit vent screen were noted to be loose, missing and in need to repair to prevent bird and rodent entry.
Exterior Doors
Solid core, French doors
The exterior south side doors are not latching well and require adjustment so they close properly. Recommend tune up and regular oil maintenance.
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Exterior Window Frames
Wood, Fiberglass
Garage
Attached
Automatic Garage Opener: Present, Laser Eyes (None Noted - Old Opener)
Garage Door Type: Wood
Garage Slab: Concrete
An older model garage door opener was noted with no laser eyes in use as a safety feature. These are less safe than modern openers which will reverse when the laser beam is broken. This safety feature is especially important for children and pets. Updating the garage door opener is recommended for improved safety.
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The main overhead garage door failed to close when testing and requires repair. The door appears to be binding with the automatic opener and the door is not closing consistently. Have this door serviced and repaired as recommended by a qualified garage door specialist.
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Extensive storage in the garage inhibited the view of most of the garage and limited visual inspection of this space.
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Electrical
Electric Service Permits Found
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Electric Service Voltage Tested
Service Voltage: 120/240
I tested the voltage at the electric panel today. It tested in a normal range of 235-245 volts. Most residential construction is listed as 120/240 volts and it is normal for some slight fluctuation.
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Electric Service
Service Entrance: Below Ground
Meter Base Amperage: 200
Service Equipment
Service Entrance (SE) conductor Size: Aluminum, 4/0, 200 amps
Main Panel Amperage: 200 amps
Electric Service Amperage: 200 amps
Main Electric Panel Location: Garage
Panel Manufacturer: Cutler Hammer
Electrical Main disconnect noted in west garage, this could be for the east garage? Recommend asking seller?
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The main electric panel in the west garage, had a could of wires that are not terminated, and had not wire nuts to protect them. Recommend a licensed electrician further evaluate and repair (e.g. cap off wires and secure).
Sub Panels
Service Conductor Size: Aluminum, 4/0, 200 amps
Sub Panel Amperage: 225 amps
Sub Panel Location: Garage
Sub Panel Manufacturer: Cutler Hammer
While on site have a licensed electrician evaluate the electrical sub panel. There appeared to be a AFCI circuit that was over fused. The MBR AFCI circuit appeared to be drawing more current than what a 15amp circuit should be drawing. Basically, this means that whatever is connected on this circuit (appliances, in floor heat, etc.) is near or above the 15amp circuit breaker and wiring capabilities (#14 gauge).
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Panel screws are missing to the sub electric panel. Replace the missing screws with the short and blunt screws only.
Branch Wiring
Wire Material: Copper
Wiring Method: Non-metallic sheathed cable
Receptacles and Fixtures
Inspection Method: Random Testing
Electric Receptacles: Three wire receptacles
The use of GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) protection is inconsistent with modern minimum standards for safety - see laundry outlets. GFCI protection is recommended for the electrical receptacles in the following locations: the two dedicated kitchen appliance circuits, all receptacles within 6 feet of a sink, bathrooms, exterior, garage, unfinished basements, laundry and all wet and damp locations. GFCI's protect against electrocution by limiting the duration of an electrical shock. These are an important modern safety feature that have proven to save lives. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and update GFCI protection for improved safety.
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The missing cover plates to electric receptacles and switches should be installed to cover all access to wiring at switches and receptacles.
The GFCI protected receptacle in the bonus room wet bar did not respond to testing and may be defective - it did not trip when tested. Have this receptacle repaired or replaced as needed.
Please note that the GFCI reset button for exterior patio outlets is the north outlet.
Multiple inoperative lights were noted: This is likely due to bulbs being burned out, but could be due to an inoperative fixture, circuit or switch. Replace bulbs or repair lights as needed.
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Please note that the GFCI reset button for exterior outlets is in the garage.
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Please note that the GFCI reset button for kitchen outlets is in the pantry, and back splash.
Please note that the GFCI reset button for bathrooms is in the guest bathroom.
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The ceiling fan in the bonus room appeared to not work. Remote was not present. Recommend asking sellers about how to operate the ceiling fan. And repair or replace as necessary.
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Please note that there is a GFCI reset button for some unknown electrical in the east upstairs bedroom closet. Recommend asking seller about.
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Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm Systems
CO Alarms Noted:
Outside all Sleeping AreasOn Main FloorOn 2nd FloorIn BasementOn 3rd FloorIn Bonus Room
CO Alarms: None Noted
The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. In addition, Washington State law (WAC 51-51-0315) now requires UL 2034 approved carbon monoxide alarms in ALL homes and condominiums being sold in Washington State. The location should be: at least one alarm outside of all sleeping areas and one on each floor of the house. Best practices are to have these alarms hardwired with a battery back-up - though requirements are for the installation to meet manufacturer's specifications. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death. Alarms have a useful service life of roughly 6 years, so changing them more frequently than smoke alarms is recommended.
Smoke Alarms Noted:On Main FloorOn 2nd FloorIn BasementOn 3rd FloorIn All BedroomsIn Bonus Room
Smoke Alarms: Present
During the home inspection, I try and test a representative sample of the smoke alarms by using the test button on the alarms. This is NOT an accurate test of the sensor just a test to see if the unit is powered. For reliability, fire marshals recommended updating smoke alarms every 10 years and changing batters bi-annually. The latest data indicate that we should be using photo-electric technology in our smoke alarms for improved fire detection and to reduce problems with false alarms which can lead to disabling of this important safety system. Unfortunately, the alarms have to be removed to determine if they are photo-electric or ionization types. It is surprisingly complex to accurately test a smoke alarm system and determine the reliability, age, and type of sensor technology used, especially as many homes can have half a dozen or more alarms throughout the house. A complete evaluation of smoke alarms is beyond the scope of this inspection. For optimal fire safety, I recommend taking control of these important safety devices and learning about how to service and maintain your smoke alarm system to keep the building occupants safe. For more information, please read this link.For more information, please read this link.
The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death. For more information, consult the Consumer Product Safety Commission at 1-800-638-2772 (C.P.S.C.) Modern standards in many states now recommend one CO alarm outside of all bedrooms and at least 1 per floor of the house.
Electrical Grounding System
Present - Could Not Confirm
During a visual inspection, every effort is made to inspect the visible components of the electrical system grounding. The grounding system is critical for safely discharging electrical surges, especially in the case of lightning strikes. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of the grounding system as much of the system is not visible and there are not practical tests one can perform in the way we can test a furnace or a plumbing fixture. However, there are many things that can lead me to recommend further evaluation of the grounding system by a licensed electrical contractor and they will be documented in the observations below if discovered.
Electrical Bonding System
Present - Could Not Confirm
During the inspection, I attempt to visually document electrical system bonding. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of system bonding. All metallic systems in the building are required to be "bonded" (connected) to the the building's electrical grounding system. Bonding creates a pathway to shunt static charges (that would otherwise build up on the system) to earth, and to provide a pathway to trip a breaker in the event that these bonded metallic components became energized. There are many things that can lead me to recommend further evaluation by a licensed electrical contractor and they will be documented in the observations below.
Low Voltage Wiring
Inquire with the seller for any additional information about the low voltage lighting system. These are beyond the scope of this inspection but I noted a transformer at the exterior: what are these for?
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A "smart box" low-voltage wiring panel and a smart house wiring was noted. This is designed to house the low voltage CATV and phone wires, and control lighting and other appliances (e.g. fireplaces). Home owners will often use these to create in house networks for internet and communication devices and may locate internet routers here. Inspection of low voltage wiring and communication wiring is beyond the scope of this inspection. Inquire with the seller for any additional information.
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Plumbing
Water Meter
This shows the location of the water meter at the street side of the house.
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Water Pressure Tested During Inspection
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Location of Main Water Shut Off
This shows the location of the main water shutoff located in the garage. And one in the crawlspace.
Water Service Supply
Pipe Material: Copper
Water Supply: Public water
Water Pressure: 65 PSI, 70 PSI, 50 PSI, 55 PSI
Pressure Reducing Valve: Present
This house has a pressure reducing valve to control high water pressure in the street.
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Main Water Shut-off Location: Crawl space, Garage
Distribution Pipe
Pipe Insulation: Present, Missing in Crawl Space, Be Sure to Winterize Exterior Plumbing
Supply Pipe Materials: Copper, PEX
Functional Flow: Average
Circulation Pump: Present, No Timer
Angle Stops Testing Note
Angle stops are the shut offs located below plumbing fixture such as sinks and toilets. These are designed so that water can be shut off locally to a fixture without shutting off the water to the entire house so that localized fixtures can be serviced and repaired or replaced. Home inspectors do NOT test angle stops during inspection as there is a risk of leakage.
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The supply pipe insulation is incomplete in the crawl space. Be sure all supply lines in unheated spaces have been adequately insulated to protect from freezing conditions that could damage the pipes and to prevent heat loss.
I noted that the water heating system has a circulation pump. This appeared to be operating at the time of inspection. For improved efficiency these are often put on timers so the pump can be timed to go off at night and in the middle of the day. I did not see a timer set up for this pump.
Waste Pipe and Discharge
Discharge Type: Public sewer
Please note that when the sewage discharge type is listed here, it is listed based on public records and disclosure. It is always possible that the system is not as it is listed; for example, a property could be listed as a public sewer system when in fact it is on a private septic system. This is unlikely, but is another reason why we recommend further evaluation of all sewage discharge systems.
Waste and Vent Pipe Materials: ABS plastic, PVC
Location of Sewer Cleanout: Crawl Space, Side Yard
This shows the location of the sewer cleanout found during inspection - crawlspace and west side of house.
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A PVC pipe was noted in the crawlspace with a p-trap and appeared to be terminating into an opening in the slab. Recommend asking seller what this drain pipe services?
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An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. Due to the age and location of the building, a sewer scope is recommended to further evaluate the sewer line.
Lateral Sewer Line Inspection
Sewer Line Material(s):SDR 35SDR 21/26PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride)ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)ConcreteClay (Vitrified Clay Pipe)Cast IronAsbestos Cement / TransiteFibrous Conduit Pipe / OrangeburgGalvanizedCopperLeadStainless SteelHDPE (High Density Polyethylene)Thin Walled PVC (Genova)CIPP (Cured In Place Pipe)
The sewer scope condition had the following findings:
Main Line Condition:
- Areas viewable appeared serviceable. Line was holding waste and toilet paper on first scope, grease build up on camera lens prevented me from being able to get a clear view of the line condition.
- The second scope, which is the video attached, no visible defects were noted, other than the section of SDR 35 clean out stub, having a bend in it, which will not effect the sewer line condition.
Recommendations:
- Proper clean-outs should be provided / added. A clean out outside of foundation is advisable, as was unable to scope from the foundation to the clean out by the property line.
- The main sewer line/pipe should be cleaned of scale / hydro-jetted and all sections of sewer line re-inspected with a camera before the inspection objection deadline, Real Estate contract deadline date; please consult with your Real Estate Professional / Realtor.
Limitiations:
- A clean out outside of foundation is advisable, as was unable to scope from the foundation to the clean out by the property line.
- The camera could not advance past 82 feet and was not able to reach city tap/ pump, the sewer scope / inspection is limited to areas viewed.
To view the video's click here: https://youtu.be/MFkF5eETiSw
Water Heater
System Type: Boiler/Tank combo-system
Manufacturer: Buderus
Water Temperature: 116 Degrees F, 123 Degrees F
Size: 106 MBTU
Age: 2005
Temperature Pressure Relief Value: Leaking
Straps : Present
An active leak was found at the water heater. This Water Heater needs to be replaced as soon as possible to prevent damage to the home. Hire a licensed plumber to replace this water heater as soon as possible.
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This thermal image shows approximate water temperature at the time of inspection.
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The discharge tube relief valve for the Water Heater appears to be leaking, a small drip leak was noted. Sometimes this can be fixed by blowing off the discharge tube but this is risky as it can get stuck open and necessitate replacement - as such I do not try and repair this during inspection. Have this leaking TPR valve repaired as needed by a licensed plumber.
This water heater is likely close to the end of its useful service life. The average life of these water heaters is 8-12 years. Budget to replace this water heater at any time. The hot water was operating at the time of inspection.
This water heater is likely close to the end of its useful service lives. The average life of these water heaters can vary widely between 8-20 years depending on water quality and maintenance schedule such as frequency of flushing system. Budget to replace this water heater at any time. Water was hot at the time of inspection.
In 2015, the federal government updated minimum standards for the energy efficiency of water heaters. This article will help you understand how this could impact your next water heater purchase. https://getscribeware.com/blog/federal-government-changed-next-water-heater/
This building has hot water provided by a tankless Water Heater. Annual flushing is typically recommended for these types of water heaters to insure safe and reliable performance. I recommend having this water heater professionally serviced annually as a part of routine scheduled maintenance.
Exterior Hose Bibs
Operating
Additional Sinks
Tested
Laundry and Additional Plumbing
Washer
Tested
A moisture alarm with water shut-off features is recommended under the washing machine to protect against accidental leaks in the supply hoses. Pans can be effective when there is a drain, but even these will not protect against a burst supply connector. A moisture alarm with automatic shut-off will. Watts is a brand I have seen installed: http://www.watts.com/pages/learnAbout/intelliflow.asp?catId=
There are also some new technologies available that can monitor and protect our whole house from leaks and indoor humidity problems: See http://www.wallyhome.com/ as an example of such a device.
For improved reliability, update the old water supply connectors to the washing machine. These are old and should be regularly swapped out to prevent accidental leaks from bursting hoses. Consider improving the reliability of this water supply by installing a flood safe hose system.
Dryer
Tested
Power Source: Gas
Exhaust Duct: Ducted to Exterior
Basic rules of thumb for dryer vent installation: The vent must terminate outdoors; it should be no more than 25 feet. For every 90 degree turn subtract 5 feet and for every 45 degree bend subtract 2.5 feet. Use only smooth-wall metal vent in 4 inch pipe diameter only. Do not use plastic pipe and plastic flex pipe. If a flexible connector is needed at the dryer use a short amount of corrugated metal pipe. Flex and corrugated pipes should never be used in concealed spaces such as through walls or in crawl spaces. Insulate dryer duct in unconditioned spaces to prevent condensation that could facilitate lint build-up inside the pipe. Do not use screws to connect pipe as these can trap lint - secure duct with foil tape as needed. Be sure duct is sleeved properly so that it will not trap lint.
The dryer ducts are dirty and needs to be cleaned for improved safety. This is important regular maintenance to eliminate a potential fire hazard.
The dryer exhaust duct termination at the exterior of the building is covered with a screen. This is a safety hazard that could block lint and cause a fire. Replace this vent cover with a cover that has a baffle.
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Thermal image shows the dryer was tested and operating at the time of inspection.
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Foil dryer exhaust duct was noted in use to connect the dryer to the rigid vent. This product is not recommended as it has proven to be unreliable and a potential fire hazard. A corrugated metal flex duct is recommended.
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Laundry Sinks
Tested
Sump Pumps and Drains
Floor Drain: None noted
Sump Pumps: None noted
Irrigation
An exterior irrigation system was noted for this home. Sprinkler systems are beyond the scope of this inspection. My own experience with irrigation systems is that they require annual attention / repair / servicing after every winter. Inquire with the seller for any information about how to winterize this system as this should be done prior to cold weather. When testing the system, be sure sprinkler heads are adjusted so the system is not watering the side of the house. Hire a specialist to further evaluate this system as desired.
Water Filters
A water filtration system was noted in the house - see by the water shut off. Evaluation of this system and water quality is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend inquiring with the seller for any maintenance, warranty or installer information that pertains to this system. If the system has not been serviced recently, have the filter system serviced and filters cleaned or replaced as a part of the recommended maintenance schedule.
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Water storage tank was missing at time of the inspection. Recommend installing, and testing prior to closing.
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Water Features
A water feature was noted for the property. Recommend asking seller about this installation. The feature appearer winterized. Recommend having made operable prior to closing.
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Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation
Heating System
Energy Source: Natural gas
Heating Method: Water heater hot water system
Manufacturer: Buderus
Capacity: 106,000
Age: 2005
Last Service Record: Service Records and Listing Plate Pics, Recent Service Records Noted
These photos show the most recent service records on the heating system as well as the listing plate.
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This photo shows the most recent service records found on the heating equipment during inspection.
Annual servicing is recommended for safe and reliable performance from this water heating radiant floor system. Records indicate that this boiler has not been serviced in the last year. The boiler was tested during inspection and was operational. Hire a licensed heating contractor to service and further evaluate the boiler. Examples of observations noted during inspection include:
- Active leak noted at water heater system.
- Appears to be the original unit from 2005, which is near or at end of its useful life
- The taco controller is rusting.
- P-Trap dirty for condensate, needs cleaning
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The hot water heating system here appears to be set up as an open loop system - this means you have one hot water heating appliance serving both the heating system and domestic hot water supply and that the same water is shared between these two systems. It is important that there be a timer to flush the heating pipes daily in an open loop system to prevent stagnant water from building up in the heating pipes that could be flushed into the domestic water supply. This can be potentially problematic if the pump stops performing as there is a danger of Legionella developing in the pipes - this is the bacteria that causes Legionnaires' disease. There is also evidence that open loop systems can be more corrosive and problematic than closed loop systems. During servicing of this heating system, I recommend consulting with a qualified heating contractor about options and potential costs to turn this system into a closed loop system.
Air Filters
Filtration Systems: Disposable
Your heating system has disposable air filters installed. These should be changed quarterly or more to ensure proper air flow at the furnace. Be sure to install the filters with the arrows pointing in the same direction as the air flow in the furnace.
Cooling Systems and Heat Pumps
Manufacturer: Carrier
System Type: Air Source
Size: 2 Tons
Energy Source: Electric
Age: 2006, 2007
The air condition system and associate condensate control system could not be tested during inspection. Outdoor temperatures must exceed 65 degrees or the air conditioning equipment can be damaged by testing. I recommended having this system serviced and inspected prior to the next cooling season.
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The vegetation around the air conditioner compressor should be pruned away to allow adequate air flow to the system.
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Heating and Cooling Distribution Systems
Heat Source in Each Room: Present, Incomplete
Distribution Method: Floor Convection
I was unable to test the heating distribution during inspection today. This limited the scope of this inspection. One the heating system is operational, I recommend verify that the distribution system is functioning as intended.
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I did not get a reliable or accurate test of the heated floors today - observations were incomplete. Thermostats were turn up as soon as we came into the house, but some areas were still not showing a temperature change by the end of the inspection. It was unclear why some of the zones did not seem to come on: this could be related to how we manipulated the thermostats today or perhaps they needed more time. Some of these systems can be slow to respond to requests from the thermostat. I recommend a servicing of the boiler and distribution system just to verify the system is performing as intended.
Thermal images show the radiant floor system operating during inspection.
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Mechanical Ventilation Systems
Bath Fan Ducting: Ducted to exterior
Kitchen Fan Ducting: Ducted to exterior
Whole House Fans, Ventilation and HRVs: Landry / House Fan Timer (Noted)
This house has a timer for a whole house fan. This timer is designed to make a fan come on periodically to exhaust interior air, facilitate air changes and help keep the indoor relative humidity in check. As a general rule, keep relative humidity below 55% in cold weather to reduce chances for condensation.
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Additional Heat Sources
Description: Radiant ceiling
The outdoor heaters were not tested during the inspection. Recommend asking sellers for information about how to use; and repair if needed, make operable prior to closing.
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Gas Fireplaces
Fireplace Types: Direct vent gas log fireplace, Direct vent - decorative log set
The outdoor gas fireplace was shut off at the time of inspection. I do not like to light these when they are shut off as I do not know why they were shut off and there could be a safety reason. I recommend having this gas fireplace cleaned and serviced by a qualified contractor and made operable as needed.
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Fuel Storage and Distribution
Gas Meter
Present
Gas Shutoff Location: East side of structure
Gas Pipe Materials: Steel and flex pipe
Structure and Basement
Foundation
% of Foundation Not Visible: 30%
Evidence of Seismic Protection: Present
Building Configuration: Crawl space, Slab on grade (garage slab)
Foundation Description: Poured concrete
Signs of seismic protection noted during inspection. This inspection is not a cohesive analysis of seismic engineering, but I do look for signs of seismic protection.
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Floor, Wall and Ceiling Framing
Wall Framing: Not visible
Wall Sheathing: Not visible
Floor Framing: Wood I-Joists
Sub-Floor Material: Plywood
Ceiling Framing: Not visible
Interior
Floors and Floor Materials
Floor Materials: Hardwood, Tile, Stone
Floor Settlement: None noted
Repair the failing mortar / grout in the tile floor to prevent tiles from becoming loose and physically damaged. Please note that this can be an indication of poor tile preparation below the tile.
Walls, Ceilings, Trim and Closets
Wall and Ceiling Materials: Drywall
Baseboard trim in the pantry appears to have been damaged, this is cosmetic but probably needs to be repaired for proper finish.
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Wall Insulation and Air Bypass
Wall Insulation: Not Visible
Stairs and Railings
Standard
Interior Doors
Solid Core
Windows
Window Glazing: Double pane
Interior Window Frame: Wood, Fiberglass
Window Styles: Casement, Awning, Fixed pane
During inspection today I inspected the headers and sills around all windows where accessible. I spot checked around windows using a moisture meter. No water stains, signs of leakage or elevated readings were found. This is good. It is always a good practice to monitor any exposed windows, especially those with south and west exposures to check for leaks during heavy wind-driven rains.
The window is not latching correctly and requires repair or adjustment so the window operates smoothly and latches.
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In many of the casement window there appeared to be bugs nests. No visible damage was noted, but it appears that this may be a quarterly maintenance task.
Indoor Air Quality
This is a modern energy efficient house. These types of houses require mechanical ventilation to help reduce indoor relative humidity, especially during winter months. Inquire with the builder to explain and set the house ventilation system. The goal is to keep indoor relative humidity below 55% in winter months.
Kitchen
Sinks and Faucets
Tested
Cabinets and Countertops
Countertop Material: Slab Surface, Granite
Cabinet Material: Wood
Ventilation Method
Fan Ducted to Exterior
Appliances
Refrigerator: Operating
Dishwasher: Operated
Dishwasher Air Gap: Present
Range/ Oven /Cook-tops: Gas
Disposer: Operated
Except for the microwave, and coffee maker, kitchen appliances were tested during inspection today. The typical design life of appliances can range from 4-20 years. Some appliances such as an older electric range are simple and tend to last longer than more complex appliances such as dishwashers and refrigerators or modern appliances with circuit boards. It is impossible to predict the useful remaining life of an appliance. I ran appliances during inspection. Any defects noted will be listed in this report. There are companies that offer warranties for appliances such as AHS Home Shield. While I do not endorse or recommend any specific warranty. I know that some home owners have been very happy with this insurance. For your convenience, I have attached a link to a web site of one such warranty product. LINK
Ovens and warming drawer were tested in bake mode and were working at the time of inspection.
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Thermal images show the freezer and refrigerator, and wine fridge working during inspection.
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Thermal images show the cooktop was tested and working during inspection.
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The Insta-Hot hot water fixture in the kitchen was operational during inspection
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No ice was noted in the wet bar ice maker. I was unable to see if there is any plumbing to this appliance. Inquire with the seller for additional information and repair / make operable as needed.
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The bonus room wine fridge and refrigerator were off or not working at time of inspection. Inquire with the seller for additional information and repair / make operable as needed.
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The built in coffee machine was off at the time of inspection, and is excluded from the inspection. Recommend Inquire with the seller for additional information and repair / make operable as needed.
Water was noted to be backing up out of the air gap when the main dishwasher was draining. This is not the intended function of this device and it could cause water damage on the countertop and around the sink. Hire a licensed plumber to repair ASAP to prevent water damage.
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Water was noted to have leaking at the kitchen disposal in the past, noted by rust stains. No water was noted at time of inspection. Recommend monitoring, and and repair or replace when needed by a licensed plumber.
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General Kitchen Condition
Standard
This home has quality appliances which can be expensive to service. You may want to look into some of the available appliance warranty programs.
Main Floor Powder Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
A slow drain was noted at the powder bathroom vessel sink indicating that the drain maybe obstructed, or there is a venting issue. Have these drains further evaluated and repaired by a plumbing contractor.
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Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
None noted
Bathroom Ventilation
Type: Bath fan, Operable window
General Bath Condition
Standard
During inspection today I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms and sinks. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for hidden leaks. I also sounded for loose tile and laminate in shower and tub enclosures. I felt for loose waste pipe below sinks and where accessible and checked for leaks below sinks. I do not test over-flow drains as this is beyond the scope of a home inspection. It is always best practice to monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents significantly less stress on plumbing than daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
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Upstairs Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
The tile and grout should be cleaned and sealed with grout sealer to prevent water damage to the tile - see especially inside shower surrounds. This should be a routine procedure with tile unless epoxy grout was used. If this is not done in epoxy grout plan on cleaning and sealing tile grout inside the shower surround annually to prolong the useful life of the tile.
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Maintenance is needed to protect the tile shower surrounds. The tile and grout in the bathroom shower surrounds should be cleaned and sealed with grout sealer to prevent water damage to the tile. This is important regular maintenance to insure reliable service life from your tile installation. All loose and failing caulking and grout should be repaired. For inside corners, sanded caulking is recommended. This caulking can be purchased to match the tile grout and will expand and contract and resist cracking. Please note that tile is difficult to inspect visually. The reliability of a tile installation depends on what the tile is mounted on and what it is mounted with: none of this is visible to inspection.
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Bathroom Ventilation
Type: Bath fan
General Bath Condition
Standard
Master Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
The tile and grout should be cleaned and sealed with grout sealer to prevent water damage to the tile - see especially inside shower surrounds. This should be a routine procedure with tile unless epoxy grout was used. If this is not done in epoxy grout plan on cleaning and sealing tile grout inside the shower surround annually to prolong the useful life of the tile.
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Maintenance is needed to protect the tile shower surrounds. The tile and grout in the bathroom shower surrounds should be cleaned and sealed with grout sealer to prevent water damage to the tile. This is important regular maintenance to insure reliable service life from your tile installation. All loose and failing caulking and grout should be repaired. For inside corners, sanded caulking is recommended. This caulking can be purchased to match the tile grout and will expand and contract and resist cracking. Please note that tile is difficult to inspect visually. The reliability of a tile installation depends on what the tile is mounted on and what it is mounted with: none of this is visible to inspection.
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Bathroom Ventilation
Type: Bath fan, Operable window
General Bath Condition
Standard
During inspection today I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms and sinks. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for hidden leaks. I also sounded for loose tile and laminate in shower and tub enclosures. I felt for loose waste pipe below sinks and where accessible and checked for leaks below sinks. I do not test over-flow drains as this is beyond the scope of a home inspection. It is always best practice to monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents significantly less stress on plumbing than daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
Guest Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
The tile and grout should be cleaned and sealed with grout sealer to prevent water damage to the tile - see especially inside shower surrounds. This should be a routine procedure with tile unless epoxy grout was used. If this is not done in epoxy grout plan on cleaning and sealing tile grout inside the shower surround annually to prolong the useful life of the tile.
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Maintenance is needed to protect the tile shower surrounds. The tile and grout in the bathroom shower surrounds should be cleaned and sealed with grout sealer to prevent water damage to the tile. This is important regular maintenance to insure reliable service life from your tile installation. All loose and failing caulking and grout should be repaired. For inside corners, sanded caulking is recommended. This caulking can be purchased to match the tile grout and will expand and contract and resist cracking. Please note that tile is difficult to inspect visually. The reliability of a tile installation depends on what the tile is mounted on and what it is mounted with: none of this is visible to inspection.
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Bathroom Ventilation
Type: Bath fan
General Bath Condition
Standard
Crawl Space
General Crawl Space Photos
The photos provided here show representative images of this crawl space at the time of inspection.
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Crawl Space Access
Method of Inspection: Crawled
During inspection of the crawl space, every effort is made to inspect behind sub-floor insulation and crawl the entire space. Visual inspection of crawl spaces is difficult as inspection is often restricted by pipes, ducts and sub-floor insulation as well as limited clearances.
The crawl space access hatch does not look rodent proof. Rebuilding is recommended to eliminate a rodent entry point. A nice way to seal the opening is to build a frame of pressure treated wood that fits snugly into the opening in the foundation and then cover this with 1/4 wire mesh.
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During inspection today I was able to crawl the entire crawl space. The sub-floor has been insulated so I pulled insulation back in places to inspect the sub-floor, rim joist and floor frame. Please note that most of the framing was concealed from view by insulation.
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Vapor Barrier
Vapor Barrier Material: Concrete
Crawl Space Ventilation
Ventilation Method: Exterior wall vents, Ventilation Fan Noted
The crawl space is employing a fan system to ventilate the crawl space. Inquire with the seller for any operating instructions? In this case I noted a humidity thermostats, I suspect this may be the control for the fan.
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Crawl space vents are currently blocked by organic debris in places. Remove leaves and soils from the crawl space vents to insure the vents remain unobstructed to allow proper ventilation of the crawl space.
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Posts and Footings
Standard
Insulation
Insulation Type: Fiberglass
Approximate R-Value: R-24
The sub-floor insulation in the crawl space has been damaged by rodents - this was pretty minor, just a few loose and damaged bits. Remove all rodent contaminated insulation and re-insulate. This work should be done in conjunction with other rodent remediation measures. Once clean-up is complete, I would set and monitor some traps to see if additional exclusion work is needed.
Moisture Conditions
No water was visible or present at the time of inspection
The crawl space was dry at the time of inspection. It is always a good idea to monitor crawl spaces to see how they perform regarding drainage.
Checking Out Procedure
Check Out List
Oven:Off
Lights:OffClient and Realtor Still In HouseClient Still in HouseRealtor Still in House
Heating and Cooling:Restored to Pre-inspection temperatures
Appliances:Off / finishing cycle
Receipt -- Residential
8602 Great Horned Owl Lane Blaine, WA 98230
| Home and Pest Inspection, with digital report | $1735.00 |
| Sewer Scope | $199.00 |
| Infrared Thermal Scan | $200.00 |
| $2134.00 | |
| PAID |
Habitat Home Inspections
C/O Brian Mattioli
1522 Madison Ave.
Blaine, WA 98230
360-366-8142
Signed Contracts
Habitat Home Inspections
360-366-8142
brian.mattioli@gmail.com
www.habitathomeinspections.com
Inspected by Brian Mattioli
WA State Pest License #: 94716
WA State Home Inspector License #: 1914
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