The Scope and Purpose of a Home Inspection
Purchasing property involves risk
The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a structure by providing a professional opinion about the overall condition of the structure. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we don’t know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend that you attend the inspection.
A home inspection is not an insurance policy
This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Home warranties can be purchased separately from insuring firms that provide this service.
A home inspection is visual and not destructive
The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing which will limit the scope of the inspection.
This is not an inspection for code compliance
This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction process structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, and this limits the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are augmented at least every three years for all of the varying disciplines. Municipalities can choose to adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their own timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done.
This is just our opinion
Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are the opinions of the home inspector. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have some differing opinions. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals.
The scope of this inspection
This inspection will include the following systems: exterior, roof, structure, drainage, foundation, attic, interior, plumbing, electrical and heating. The evaluation will be based on limited observations that are primarily visual and non-invasive. This inspection and report are not intended to be technically exhaustive.
Your expectations
The overall goal of a home inspection is to help ensure that your expectations are appropriate with the house you are proposing to buy. To this end we assist with discovery by showing and documenting observations during the home inspection. This should not be mistaken for a technically exhaustive inspection designed to uncover every defect with a building. Such inspections are available but they are generally cost-prohibitive to most homebuyers.
Your participation is requested
Your presence is requested during this inspection. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by a shared visual observation of the conditions of the property.
How to Read This Report
Getting the Information to You
This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a quick look at our "Summary Page” and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos and hot links to additional information.
The best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online, which will allow you to expand your learning about your house. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined – clicking on these will provide you with a link to additional information.
This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document.
Chapters and Sections
This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.
Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there may be no narrative observation comments in that section and it may simply say “tested,” or “inspected.”
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
- Major Concern:Repair items that may cost significant money to correct now or in the near future, or items that require immediate attention to prevent additional damage or eliminate safety hazards.
- Repair:Repair and maintenance items noted during inspection. Please note that some repair items can be expensive to correct such as re-finishing hardwood floors, but are considered simply repair items due to their cosmetic nature.
- Recommended Maintenance:These are repair items that should be considered "routine home ownership items," such as servicing the furnace, cleaning the gutters or changing the air filters in the furnace.
- Due Diligence:Observation such as a buried oil tank that may require further investigation to determine the severity and / or urgency of repair.
- Note:Refers to aside information and /or any comments elaborating on descriptions of systems in the home or limitations to the home inspection.
- Description:Detailed description of various aspects of the property noted during the inspection.
Summary Page
The Summary Page is designed as a bulleted overview of all the observations noted during inspection. This helpful overview is not a substitution for reading the entire inspection report. The entire report must be read to get a complete understanding of this inspection report as the Summary Page does not include photographs or photo captions.
Summary
Major Concerns
- P2-2 Plumbing:
Leaky waste plumbing was noted. This requires immediate repair. Hire a licensed plumbing contractor to further evaluate and repair these pipes.
Repairs
- G2-2 Garage:
The auto-close hinges on the garage door have been disabled. This safety device is recommended to ensure the door is closed to keep pollutants and even fire from spreading into the house. Repair as needed.
- RCG-3 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:
The metal chimney cap does not appear to be sloped to drain. This can facilitate corrosion in the cap and leakage in the chimney. Have this cap further evaluated and repaired or replaced by a licensed chimney sweep.
- EDFW-1 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:
The GFCI protected receptacle in the powder bathroom did not respond to testing and may be defective - it did not trip when tested. Have this receptacle repaired or replaced as needed.
- EDFW-2 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:
An inoperative receptacle was noted. This may be on a switched or GFCI protected circuit, but no switch or GFCI was found during inspection. Have the receptacle further evaluated and repaired by a licensed electrician. Living Room
- EDFW-3 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:
Carbon monoxide alarms were found and noted during inspection, but they have not been located adequately. The default safety standard is 1 / floor and 1 outside of all sleeping areas. Be sure to install and check these important safety devices regularly with the test button to ensure they are operational.
- EDFW-4 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:
Modern standards recommend smoke alarms in all bedrooms, in all hallways outside bedrooms and at least one on each floor of the building. At the time of inspection smoke alarms were incomplete in the bedrooms.
- HCFV-2 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
The B-vent flue for the furnace is corroded above the roofline and requires replacement. Have this further evaluated and repaired as recommended by a qualified heating contractor. Please note that the correct cap design can help prevent corrosion of the top of the vent pipe.
- A-3 Attic:
Trails noted through the attic insulation indicate rodent activity, this doesn't appear to be active as there were no droppings noted. Have this further evaluated by a qualified pest control service.
- A-5 Attic:
The exhaust ductwork for the bathroom fans is disconnected in the attic and requires repair to ensure fan exhaust is properly venting to the exterior. Having exhaust fans venting into the attic can cause lead to seasonal condensation and moisture controls problems and could damage the attic building materials. Repair to ensure proper discharge of air to the exterior and be sure exhaust ductwork is insulated to R-8 or better to reduce risks of seasonal condensation.
- A-6 Attic:
Replace the missing soffit vent screens using 1/4 inch wire mesh for screening. This is important to keep birds and inspects out of the attic space. Examples
- CS3-3 Crawl Space:
The current vapor barrier in the crawl space is rodent-damaged. Replace vapor barrier. Use 6 mil black plastic to cover all exposed earth.
- CS3-4 Crawl Space:
Some of the heating distribution ductwork in the crawl space was noted to be rodent damaged. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a qualified contractor. The ductwork should be insulated to R-8 or better.
Recommended Maintenance Items
- G-2 Grounds:
All trees, branches and vegetation should be pruned at least six feet away from the building to eliminate a condition conducive to wood destroying organisms and a path for rodent entry Examples
- HCFV-3 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
The dirty air filter for the forced air furnace should be replaced. Plan on replacing air filters every 2-3 months during the heating season.
- K-2 Kitchen:
Caulking is needed behind the kitchen sink at the backsplash to prevent water damage.
- FB5-2 Family Bathroom:
The backsplash behind the family bathroom sink is not adequately sealed to the countertop and could allow water to get behind the countertop. Seal with caulking.
- FB5-3 Family Bathroom:
The stopper to the family bathroom sink is disconnected - adjust / repair stopper as needed.
Due Diligences
- P2-1 Plumbing:
No water meter was found. This house seems to be on a public water system, which should have a metering device. Inquire with the seller or the utility as needed to locate the water meter.
Notes
- GC-2 General Comments:
The report has been procured by the seller and is provided for informational and disclosure purposes only. It is not intended to constituent a warranty, either expressed or implied about the condition of the property.
- RCG-2 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:
The roofing material on this building is a presidential grade shingle. These are often rated as 40-50 year shingles. In practice, as a roof assembly, I find these last closer to 35-40 years depending on the quality of the installation, the steepness of the roof and the amount of exposure. The installation appears neat and professional. Disclose any warranty information for this roof. Many professional roofing companies will offer limited workmanship warranties. Please note that roofs are not a shingle. they are an assembly and they require regular cleaning and maintenance to keep them performing reliably.
- HCFV-5 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
This house has a timer for a whole house fan - see laundry room. This timer is designed to make a fan come on periodically to exhaust interior air, facilitate air changes and help keep the indoor relative humidity in check - for more information see: this LINK. As a general rule, keep relative humidity around 50% in cold weather to reduce chances for condensation.
- HCFV-6 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
Thermal images show the radiant floor pads working in the bathrooms.
- I-2 Interior:
During inspection today I inspected the headers and sills around all windows where accessible. I spot checked around windows using a moisture meter. No water stains, signs of leakage or elevated readings were found. This is good. It is always a good practice to monitor any exposed windows, especially those with south and west exposures to check for leaks during heavy wind-driven rains.
- K-4 Kitchen:
Cooktop and oven working at time of inspection
- LF-2 Laundry Facilities:
Laundry fan working at the time of inspection
- MB1-2 Main Bathroom:
I tested the bath fans today and they appeared to be working as intended.
- MB1-3 Main Bathroom:
During inspection today I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for concealed leaks and sounded for loose tile and finishes in shower and tub enclosures. I do not test bathtub overflow drains as this risks damaging finishes around the tub. Monitor tubs while filling and avoid pushing water into the overflow. Even well-installed overflow drains can leak as the gaskets that seal the overflow will dry out over time and may no longer provide a watertight seal. Monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents less stress on plumbing than daily use. Please note that vacant homes present additional risk as it can be difficult to distinguish how the plumbing system will respond to daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
- FB5-4 Family Bathroom:
I tested the bath fans today and they appeared to be working as intended.
- FB5-5 Family Bathroom:
During inspection today I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for concealed leaks and sounded for loose tile and finishes in shower and tub enclosures. I do not test bathtub overflow drains as this risks damaging finishes around the tub. Monitor tubs while filling and avoid pushing water into the overflow. Even well-installed overflow drains can leak as the gaskets that seal the overflow will dry out over time and may no longer provide a watertight seal. Monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents less stress on plumbing than daily use. Please note that vacant homes present additional risk as it can be difficult to distinguish how the plumbing system will respond to daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
- PB3-2 Powder Bathroom:
I tested the bath fans today and they appeared to be working as intended.
- PB3-3 Powder Bathroom:
During inspection today I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for concealed leaks and sounded for loose tile and finishes in shower and tub enclosures. I do not test bathtub overflow drains as this risks damaging finishes around the tub. Monitor tubs while filling and avoid pushing water into the overflow. Even well-installed overflow drains can leak as the gaskets that seal the overflow will dry out over time and may no longer provide a watertight seal. Monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents less stress on plumbing than daily use. Please note that vacant homes present additional risk as it can be difficult to distinguish how the plumbing system will respond to daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
- A-2 Attic:
I inspected the attic space today and no red flags were noted regarding prior moisture build-up or relative humidity. Venting appeared unrestricted where visible. Wood has a nice bright color indicating no prior moisture problems with relative humidity or heat migration into the attic.
- A-4 Attic:
The accessible exhaust fan vents in the attic were noted to be correctly terminating to the exterior where visible.
- CS3-1 Crawl Space:
The photos provided here show representative images of this crawl space at the time of inspection.
- CS3-2 Crawl Space:
During inspection today I was able to crawl the entire crawl space. The sub-floor has been insulated so I pulled insulation back in places to inspect the sub-floor, rim joist and floor frame. Please note that most of the framing was concealed from view by insulation.
- CS3-5 Crawl Space:
The crawl space was dry at the time of inspection.
The Full Report
General Comments
Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations
Type of Building : Single Family (2-story)
Approximate Square Footage: 2100
The approximate square footage listed here is listed as a courtesy and is based off of public records and disclosure. An evaluation of square footage of the buildings and property lines is beyond the scope of this inspection.
Approximate Year of Original Construction: 1992
Attending the Inspection: Seller and Listing Agent
Occupancy: Unoccupied
Animals Present: No
Weather during the inspection: Clear
Approximate temperature during the inspection: Over 70[F]
Ground/Soil surface conditions: Dry
For the Purposes of This Report, the Front Door Faces: South
The report has been procured by the seller and is provided for informational and disclosure purposes only. It is not intended to constituent a warranty, either expressed or implied about the condition of the property.
This inspection has been prepared for the seller. Every effort is made on pre-listing inspections to provide the same comprehensive inspection and report as for a buyer's inspection. If you are a buyer and you are reading this report, I am happy to provide a complementary phone consult about this report once I have permission from my client to discuss the report. If repairs have been made, and re-inspection services are requested, I recommend contacting me directly about scheduling a re-inspection of the property. Please note that if you are under contract to purchase the house, Washington state requires that I provide a complete home inspection and report; I am not allowed to provide a verbal consolation.
This house was vacant / unoccupied at the time of inspection. Vacant and unoccupied houses present unique challenges for home inspection, especially the piping and wiring systems which have not be subject to regular use prior to the inspection. While these systems can be tested during inspection, this one-time test is different than regular use and it is difficult to know how these systems will respond to regular use after the inspection. For example, septic systems may initially function and then fail under regular daily use. Plumbing traps may operate with no signs of leaks and then let go when being actively used for a few days. Shower pans may only leak when someone is standing in the shower and taking a shower. Seals for plumbing fixtures can dry up and leak when not is use. Sewer lines with roots may allow water flow, but then fail when waste and tissue are flushed; it can take a few days for that to backup. Please understand we are trying our best to look for clues of past or existing problems to paint a realistic best-guess as to the reliability of these systems during inspection.
Grounds
Drainage and Site
Clearance to Grade: Standard
Downspout Discharge: Below grade
Site Description: Flat
Driveways/Walkways/Flatwork
Driveway: Concrete
Walkways: Pavers, Concrete
Patios: Pavers
Window and Stairwells
None Noted
Grounds, Trees and Vegetation
Trees/Vegetation too near building: Yes - Prune Vegetation off House
Exterior Stairs
Exterior Stairs: Standard
Fences
Exterior Fencing: Present
Outbuildings, Trellises, Storage Sheds, Barns
None noted
Exterior Siding, Doors and Windows
Siding and Trim
Trim Material: Wood
Siding Material: Wood
Eaves
Open rafters
Exterior Doors
Solid core, Sliding glass
Exterior Window Frames
Vinyl
Decks, Porches and Balconies
Decks, Porches and Balconies
None noted
Fuel Storage and Distribution
Oil Storage
None noted
Propane Storage
None noted
Garage
Garage Doors and Automatic Openers
Overhead Garage Door Type: Metal
Automatic Garage Opener: Present
Garage Occupant Door: Solid Wood, Hinges Disabled
Garage Floor
Garage Slab: Concrete
Roof, Chimney and Gutters
Roof Materials
Method of Roof Inspection: Walked on roof
Roof Style: Gable, Hip
Flashings: Present and Visually Standard
Roof flashings are used to keep a roofing system water proof where the roofing material starts, stops, changes direction or is penetrated. During inspection, we look for standard flashing techniques that could be considered normal or standard in our region. Damaged, incomplete or non-standard flashings can be a sign of an older or less reliable roofing system and may require repair. Any non-standard flashings noted during inspection will be reported on below if found.
Roof Covering Materials: Presidential grade shingle
Approximate Age of Roof Covering: 6-8 Years
Overlay Roof: No
The roofing material on this building is a presidential grade shingle. These are often rated as 40-50 year shingles. In practice, as a roof assembly, I find these last closer to 35-40 years depending on the quality of the installation, the steepness of the roof and the amount of exposure. The installation appears neat and professional. Disclose any warranty information for this roof. Many professional roofing companies will offer limited workmanship warranties. Please note that roofs are not a shingle. they are an assembly and they require regular cleaning and maintenance to keep them performing reliably.
Chimneys
Present
Chimney Material: Metal below siding
Chimney Flue Liners: Present
Skylights
Insulated curb style
Gutters and Downspouts
Gutter and Downspout Materials: Aluminum
Electric Service
Electric Service Voltage Tested
Service Voltage: 120/240
Electric Service Equipment
Service Entrance (SE) conductor Size: Aluminum, 4/0, 200 amps
Main Panel Amperage: 200 amps
Electric Service Amperage: 200 amps
Main Electric Panel Location: Garage
Panel Manufacturer: GE
Electrical Grounding System
Grounding Rod Noted
Ground rod connections were noted at the exterior. The ground rods looked to be fully driven and connections looked standard,
Electrical Bonding System
Inter-bonding Terminal Noted
Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring
Branch Wiring
Wire Material: Copper
Wiring Method: Non-metallic sheathed cable
Receptacles and Fixtures
Inspection Method: Tested All Accessible
Electric Receptacles: Three wire receptacles
The GFCI protected receptacle in the powder bathroom did not respond to testing and may be defective - it did not trip when tested. Have this receptacle repaired or replaced as needed.
Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm Systems
CO Alarms: Not Enough
The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. In addition, Washington State law (WAC 51-51-0315) now requires UL 2034 approved carbon monoxide alarms in ALL homes and condominiums being sold in Washington State. The location should be: at least one alarm outside of all sleeping areas and one on each floor of the house. Best practices are to have these alarms hardwired with a battery back-up - though requirements are for the installation to meet manufacturer's specifications. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death. Alarms have a useful service life of roughly 6 years, so changing them more frequently than smoke alarms is recommended.
Smoke Alarms: None In Bedrooms
During the home inspection, I try and test a representative sample of the smoke alarms by using the test button on the alarms. This is NOT an accurate test of the sensor just a test to see if the unit is powered. For reliability, fire marshals recommended updating smoke alarms every 10 years and changing batters bi-annually. The latest data indicate that we should be using photo-electric technology in our smoke alarms for improved fire detection and to reduce problems with false alarms which can lead to disabling of this important safety system. Unfortunately, the alarms have to be removed to determine if they are photo-electric or ionization types. It is surprisingly complex to accurately test a smoke alarm system and determine the reliability, age, and type of sensor technology used, especially as many homes can have half a dozen or more alarms throughout the house. A complete evaluation of smoke alarms is beyond the scope of this inspection. For optimal fire safety, I recommend taking control of these important safety devices and learning about how to service and maintain your smoke alarm system to keep the building occupants safe. For more information, please read this link. For more information, please read this link.
Carbon monoxide alarms were found and noted during inspection, but they have not been located adequately. The default safety standard is 1 / floor and 1 outside of all sleeping areas. Be sure to install and check these important safety devices regularly with the test button to ensure they are operational.
Modern standards recommend smoke alarms in all bedrooms, in all hallways outside bedrooms and at least one on each floor of the building. At the time of inspection smoke alarms were incomplete in the bedrooms.
Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation
Heating System
Energy Source: Natural gas
Heating Method: Gas forced air furnace
Manufacturer: Bryant
Age: 2012
Last Service Record: None
Vents and Flues
The B-vent flue for the furnace is corroded above the roofline and requires replacement. Have this further evaluated and repaired as recommended by a qualified heating contractor. Please note that the correct cap design can help prevent corrosion of the top of the vent pipe.
Air Filters
Filtration Systems: Disposable
Your heating system has disposable air filters installed. These should be changed quarterly or more to ensure proper air flow at the furnace. Be sure to install the filters with the arrows pointing in the same direction as the air flow in the furnace.
Cooling Systems and Heat Pumps
Air Conditioning / Heat Pump: None Noted
Heating and Cooling Distribution Systems
Heat Source in Each Room: Present
Distribution Method: Forced Air / Ducts
Mechanical Ventilation Systems
Bath Fan Ducting: Ducted to exterior
Kitchen Fan Ducting: Ducted to exterior
Whole House Fans, Ventilation and HRVs: Landry / House Fan Timer (Noted)
This house has a timer for a whole house fan - see laundry room. This timer is designed to make a fan come on periodically to exhaust interior air, facilitate air changes and help keep the indoor relative humidity in check - for more information see: this LINK. As a general rule, keep relative humidity around 50% in cold weather to reduce chances for condensation.
Additional Heat Sources
Description: Radiant Floor - Include IR Images
Plumbing
Water Meter
Not Found - Inquire With Seller
No water meter was found. This house seems to be on a public water system, which should have a metering device. Inquire with the seller or the utility as needed to locate the water meter.
Water Service Supply
Pipe Material: Copper
Water Supply: Public water
Water Pressure: Water Pressure Tested, 65 PSI
Pressure Reducing Valve: None noted
Distribution Pipe
Pipe Insulation: Present
Supply Pipe Materials: Copper
Functional Flow: Average
Circulation Pump: None Noted
Waste Pipe and Discharge
Discharge Type: Public Sewer - Buyer
Waste and Vent Pipe Materials: ABS plastic
Water Heater
Manufacturer: Rheem
System Type: Tank
Size: 50 gal
Age: 2016
Energy Source: Gas
Straps : Present
Pad: None Needed
Drain Pan: Not Needed
Expansion Tank: Present
Temperature Pressure Relief Value: Present - Not Tested
A temperature and pressure relief valve (TPRV) is required on all water heaters to discharge any excessive pressure within the tank. A discharge pipe should be attached to the valve and directed to a safe location away from body contact. Newer installations must be directed to the building exterior or to an approved indoor drain receptor. Most manufacturers suggest that homeowners test these valves at least once a year by lifting the lever to ensure the valve discharges properly and also recommend inspection of these safety devices every three years. The picture here shows a typical TPRV. They may also be found on the side of the heater on some models. I do not test these valves due to the possibility that they may leak after testing. A leaking or inoperative TPRV should be replaced immediately by a licensed plumber.
Due to inconsistencies between both UPC and IPC Plumbing codes, and water heater manufacturer's instructions, and TPRV manufacturer instructions, it is not actually possible to install the drain from the Water Heater TPRV "properly." There are conflicts with distance of termination to the floor/ground, types of pipes approved, and diameters of pipes approved. Additional confusion is added when jurisdictional inspectors approve installations/materials specifically not allowed by both codes and manufacturers. My recommendations will vary depending on the installation and will be included in the applicable narratives below.
Most codes defer to manufacturer instructions and I favor those recommendations. The yellow tag on the valve states clearly the termination should be 6" above the floor which is more consistent with the UPC code requirements.
Water Temperature
Exterior Hose Bibs
Operating
Additional Sinks
Tested
Additional Plumbing
Sump Pumps and Drains
Floor Drain: None noted
Sump Pumps: None noted
Interior
Floors and Floor Materials
Floor Materials: Carpet, Tile, Hardwood, Plastic laminate
Floor Settlement: None noted
Walls, Ceilings, Trim, Hallways and Closets
Wall and Ceiling Materials: Drywall
Wall Insulation and Air Bypass
Wall Insulation: Not Visible
Stairs and Railings
Standard
Interior Doors
Interior Doors: Hollow Core
Windows
Window Glazing: Double pane
Interior Window Frame: Vinyl
Window Brands Noted: Milgard
During inspection today I inspected the headers and sills around all windows where accessible. I spot checked around windows using a moisture meter. No water stains, signs of leakage or elevated readings were found. This is good. It is always a good practice to monitor any exposed windows, especially those with south and west exposures to check for leaks during heavy wind-driven rains.
Kitchen
Sinks and Faucets
Tested
Cabinets and Countertops
Countertop Material: Slab Surface
Cabinet Material: Wood laminate
Disposers
Disposer: Operated
Dishwasher
Dishwasher: Operated
Dishwasher Air Gap: Just a high loop
Ranges, Ovens and Cooktops
Range/ Oven /Cook-tops: Gas
Refrigerators
Refrigerator: Operating
General Kitchen Condition
Standard
Laundry Facilities
Dryer
Tested
Power Source: Electric
Exhaust Duct: Ducted to Exterior
Laundry Sinks
None noted
Main Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
Bathroom Ventilation
Type: Bath fan
General Bath Condition
Standard
During inspection today I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for concealed leaks and sounded for loose tile and finishes in shower and tub enclosures. I do not test bathtub overflow drains as this risks damaging finishes around the tub. Monitor tubs while filling and avoid pushing water into the overflow. Even well-installed overflow drains can leak as the gaskets that seal the overflow will dry out over time and may no longer provide a watertight seal. Monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents less stress on plumbing than daily use. Please note that vacant homes present additional risk as it can be difficult to distinguish how the plumbing system will respond to daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
Family Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
The backsplash behind the family bathroom sink is not adequately sealed to the countertop and could allow water to get behind the countertop. Seal with caulking.
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
Bathroom Ventilation
Type: Bath fan
General Bath Condition
Standard
During inspection today I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for concealed leaks and sounded for loose tile and finishes in shower and tub enclosures. I do not test bathtub overflow drains as this risks damaging finishes around the tub. Monitor tubs while filling and avoid pushing water into the overflow. Even well-installed overflow drains can leak as the gaskets that seal the overflow will dry out over time and may no longer provide a watertight seal. Monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents less stress on plumbing than daily use. Please note that vacant homes present additional risk as it can be difficult to distinguish how the plumbing system will respond to daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
Powder Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
None noted
Bathroom Ventilation
Type: Bath fan
General Bath Condition
Standard
During inspection today I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for concealed leaks and sounded for loose tile and finishes in shower and tub enclosures. I do not test bathtub overflow drains as this risks damaging finishes around the tub. Monitor tubs while filling and avoid pushing water into the overflow. Even well-installed overflow drains can leak as the gaskets that seal the overflow will dry out over time and may no longer provide a watertight seal. Monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents less stress on plumbing than daily use. Please note that vacant homes present additional risk as it can be difficult to distinguish how the plumbing system will respond to daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
Attic
Roof Framing and Sheathing
Rafters: Truss
Sheathing: Plywood
Attic Insulation
Insulation Type: Fiberglass
Attic Fan Exhaust Vents
The exhaust ductwork for the bathroom fans is disconnected in the attic and requires repair to ensure fan exhaust is properly venting to the exterior. Having exhaust fans venting into the attic can cause lead to seasonal condensation and moisture controls problems and could damage the attic building materials. Repair to ensure proper discharge of air to the exterior and be sure exhaust ductwork is insulated to R-8 or better to reduce risks of seasonal condensation.
Attic and Roof Cavity Ventilation
Attic Ventilation Method: Soffit vents, Ridge vents, Gable vents
Attic and roof cavity ventilation is a frequently-misunderstood element of residential construction. All roof cavities are required to have ventilation. The general default standard is 1 to 150 of the attic area and ideally, this comes from at least 60% lower roof cavity ventilation and 40% upper, but this is a wild over-simplifications of the subject. As a good guiding principle the most important elements for healthy attic spaces, which are traditionally insulated and ventilated are:
- Make sure the ceiling between the living space and the attic is airtight
- Ventilate consistently across the whole lower part of the roof cavity with low, intake soffit venting
- Upper roof cavity venting is less important and if over-installed can exacerbate air migration into the attic from the living space.
- Avoid power ventilators which can depressurize the attic and exacerbate air migration from the house into the attic.
For more information, please see: Link
Crawl Space
General Crawl Space
Crawl Space Access
Method of Inspection: Crawled
During inspection of the crawl space, every effort is made to inspect the entire space. Visual inspection of crawl spaces is difficult and limited as access is often restricted by pipes, ducts and sub-floor insulation as well as limited clearances.
During inspection today I was able to crawl the entire crawl space. The sub-floor has been insulated so I pulled insulation back in places to inspect the sub-floor, rim joist and floor frame. Please note that most of the framing was concealed from view by insulation.
Vapor Barrier
Vapor Barrier Material: Plastic on earth, Old and Rodent Damaged
Crawl Space Ventilation
Ventilation Method: Exterior wall vents
Posts and Footings
Standard
Insulation
Insulation Type: Fiberglass
Moisture Conditions
No water was visible or present at the time of inspection
The crawl space was dry at the time of inspection.
Structure and Basement
Foundation
% of Foundation Not Visible: 20%
Evidence of Seismic Protection: Present
Signs of seismic protection noted during inspection. This inspection is not a cohesive analysis of seismic engineering, but I do look for signs of seismic protection.
Building Configuration: Crawl space
Foundation Description: Poured concrete
Floor, Wall and Ceiling Framing
Wall Framing: Not visible
Wall Sheathing: Not visible
Floor Framing: Partly visible
Sub-Floor Material: Glimpsed through insulation
Ceiling Framing: Bottom cord of truss
Basement
None
Basement Moisture
Not applicable
Checking Out Procedure
Check Out List
Oven:Off
Lights:Client and Realtor Still In House
Heating and Cooling:Restored to Pre-inspection temperatures
Appliances:Off / finishing cycle
Receipt -- The Full Report
Sample
Inspection Fee | $500.00 |
$500.00 | |
PAID |