Repairs

• GD-1 Grounds and Drainage:

  Improved drainage is needed along the upper edge of the retaining wall between the back patio and hillside. It does not appear to be adequate provisions to remove for enough water and there are apparent corresponding signs of settlement to the masonry wall and paving. Have this corrected by a qualified general or drainage contractor.

• GD-7 Grounds and Drainage:

  The fencing along the top of the retaining wall at at the back of the property here is suffering from localized areas of wood rot. The fence is also shorter than current standards for safety (42"). At a minimum, rotten wood should be replaced. It is recommended that the entirety of the fence be upgraded for improved safety. The masonry wall in the back yard can likely be simply extended.

• RGC-1 Roof, Gutters, and Chimney:

  Many locations were seen where nails were improperly placed on shingles and shingles are also placed too far apart. These are potential sources of water entry and should be further evaluated by a qualified roofing contractor. It may be possible to make repairs but be aware that these are installation defects which would require roof replacement in order to correct.

• RGC-2 Roof, Gutters, and Chimney:

  Roof jack flashings are improperly integrated with the shingle surface which leaves them prone to water entry. These flashings should be installed in accordance with the attached illustration in order to properly shed water off the surface. Present installation is dependent on patching material which will require frequent maintenance to remain waterproof.

• RGC-3 Roof, Gutters, and Chimney:

  Recommend removal or capping off of unused vent piping. These vents are open to the finished basement and will allow water and pest entry. Be aware that these are Transite pipe which likely contain asbestos and will need to be handled by an appropriate remediation specialist if removed or disturbed.

• RGC-4 Roof, Gutters, and Chimney:

  Vent / flashing metal is rusted and corroded and unreliable. Recommend that as a solution in the short term that these be cleaned and painted to provide additional serviceable life. Have these replaced during the next roof replacement.

• RGC-7 Roof, Gutters, and Chimney:

  One of the beams has been cut through to allow for the installation of a recessed light. Have this repaired by a qualified contractor to ensure reliable performance of the roof framing. In addition to supporting the interior finishes, the ceiling framing also serves to provide tension between the exterior walls.

• RGC-8 Roof, Gutters, and Chimney:

  The attic and roof cavity ventilation looks to be inadequate. Standards recommend open ventilation levels in a ratio of 1 to 150 of the attic area. Proper attic ventilation is important for the roofing materials to perform as intended and to reduce chances for condensation problems and heat build-up in the attic. This is a common condition on older buildings that did not originally have composition roofs. As this building is made tighter and better insulated, and air-sealed for energy efficiency, it is important to improve roof cavity ventilation as well. Consult with a qualified general or roofing contractor about adding dormer or ridge vents for upper roof ventilation as needed.

• ED-1 Exterior and Decks:

  Any objects which pass through the siding should be caulked or otherwise sealed to prevent water entry into the wall interior

• ED-3 Exterior and Decks:

  The main entry door rubs against its frame. Trimming or adjustment needed for ease of use and to prevent damage to the finishes.

• ED-5 Exterior and Decks:

  The deck surface is showing signs of age and localized decay. It is recommended that any damaged wood be further evaluated by a pest control professional and that any recommended repairs be completed as soon as possible for safety reasons. Also, secure any loose boards as needed to avoid a trip hazard.

• G-1 Garage:

  The insulation in the garage is installed upside down. The vapor barrier should be removed to prevent trapping moisture which can result in structural damage to the framing. The paper facing is also not treated for fire resistance and poses a hazard.

• G-3 Garage:

  The laser eye safety mechanism for the overhead garage door has been set too high - this sensor should be no more than 6 inches off of the floor to perform as intended and prevent entrapment. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a garage door specialist.

• G-4 Garage:

  The overhead garage door does not reverse under resistance to closing. Adjustment of the sensitivity by a qualified installer is recommended for improved safety. This typically involves adjusting a small plastic screw on the opener.

• E-1 Electrical:

  This panel does not have AFCI (arc fault circuit interrupt) type breakers installed. These have been a requirement for circuits feeding sleeping areas since 2005 and more recently, for most all interior non dedicated circuits. This panel appears to have been recently installed (with a manufacture date of 2005) and these types of breakers should be present. Have this corrected by a qualified electrician

• E-2 Electrical:

  There is damaged wiring in this panel where a connection is made to a circuit breaker. This should be repaired by a qualified electrician. Strands cut off like this reduce the effective wire gauge and can lead to an overheated situation.

• E-4 Electrical:

  The wiring to the sub-panel requires repair. The neutrals should be on a floating bus bar and should be separated from the equipment grounds. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and repair this condition.

• E-5 Electrical:

  Corrosion was noted on one circuit inside the sub electric panel. This risks poor connections and should be further evaluated and repaired as recommended by a licensed electrician.

• E-7 Electrical:

  There is improper wiring installed near the main electrical panel. This is an extension cord which should not be used as permanent wiring, has been left exposed and prone to damage, and the underground conduit which it is run through is open to the weather and will allow water entry. Have this improved by a qualified electrician.

• E-8 Electrical:

  The open electrical junction boxes need to be covered for improved safety - see attic, crawl space, and basement ceiling. This is as simple as installing a cover plate over the box to protect the wiring. Sometimes, an extension ring is needed if finishes are covering the box. Repair as needed for improved safety.

• E-9 Electrical:

  The non-metallic sheathed cable is poorly supported and requires staples or hangers for additional support and strain relief - see attic. This type of wiring should be supported every 4 feet and within 2 feet of junction boxes.

• E-11 Electrical:

  Many of the receptacles tested as having open grounds. This is a common condition in older buildings (prior to 1962) where three prong receptacles have been installed on an older two wire system. This creates a safety hazard as appliances that rely on an equipment ground to discharge a fault can be plugged into ungrounded circuits. It is recommended that the older wiring present be updated to modern standards. Have a qualified electrician conduct further evaluation at this time.

• E-12 Electrical:

  The exterior lights have broken or missing globes or covers - have an electrician repair or replace these old light fixtures.

• E-13 Electrical:

  There is a light switch outside, that appears to be rated for interior use only. Have an electrician replace with a proper exterior rated electrical switch.

• E-14 Electrical:

  The missing cover plates to electric receptacles, switches and junction boxes should be installed at this time to prevent entry.

• E-20 Electrical:

  Have the electrical bonding system checked by a licensed electrician. Adequate bonding could not be verified at the main water pipe or the pipes by the water heater. This is an important safety feature to ensure safe control of stray voltage on metal systems in the house.

• P-1 Plumbing:

  The static water pressure in the home tested above 80 PSI, the maximum allowed. High water pressure can put undue stress on the supply plumbing system and make it less reliable and vulnerable to leaks. A pressure reducing valve was noted in the home. This valve should be further evaluated and adjusted or repaired as needed so that water pressure inside the home is 80 PSI or less.

• P-2 Plumbing:

  The galvanized steel supply pipe in this home looks to be at the end of its useful and reliable service life. Poor functional flow and multiple corrosion and leak points were noted. Hire a licensed plumbing contractor to further evaluate and replace this supply pipe.

• P-3 Plumbing:

  Corrosion was seen on water piping in the crawlspace at the front of the house. This copper pipe appears to pass through a galvanized pipe or sleeve. Steel piping reacts with copper resulting in rapid deterioration. Have this repaired as recommended by a qualified plumbing contractor.

• P-5 Plumbing:

  The discharge tube for the water heater temperature and pressure relief valve is missing and requires repair to eliminate a scald hazard. This is an important safety feature. Should the TPRV need to discharge, scalding water and steam would come out. This water and steam needs to be directed away from people. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair. The discharge piping for the valve is required to terminate at the exterior and pointing downward within 6 inches of ground level

• P-6 Plumbing:

  The condensate drain tube from this water heater is draining into the crawlspace. This needs to be extended to an approved location, such as the exterior, to avoid structural damage or deterioration. Have this corrected by a qualified plumbing contractor.

• LF-2 Laundry Facilities:

  Foil or Mylar transition duct was noted in use to connect the dryer to the rigid vent. This product is not recommended as it has proven to be unreliable and a potential fire hazard. A corrugated metal flex duct is recommended.

• AP-1 Additional Plumbing:

  The sprinkler valves are installed too close to grade. These valves are intended to be installed a certain height above the earth, generally 12", to ensure proper operation of the built-in backflow prevention devices. Failure of a backflow device can result in contamination of potable water with irrigation water which does carry some health risks. Recommend correction by a qualified plumbing or landscape contractor.

• FD-1 Fuel and Distribution:

  The gas meter pressure regulator is too close to the furnace vent. It must be at least 3 feet away. Consult with your gas provider for an approved repair. This typically involves using an extension on the breather tube. Another solution would be to relocate the vent pipe for the furnace.

• FD-2 Fuel and Distribution:

  Replacement of older style gas valves is recommended for reliability. There should also be a cap on any unused gas valves to ensure against leaks in the event of valve failure.

• HC4-1 Heating and Cooling:

  There is evidence of a condensate leak which requires further investigation by a qualified HVAC technician. This condition could indicate internal corrosion or damage which may require repair.

• HC4-2 Heating and Cooling:

  Gaps are present around the air return plenum which need to be better sealed. These will draw air in from the crawlspace and circulate it through the house.

• HC4-5 Heating and Cooling:

  The insulation wrap around the refrigerant lines should be replaced. Damage is present which can result in condensate buildup which may then drip onto the structure beneath. At exterior locations, poor insulation will reduce overall efficiency of the system. Currently, 2 inch insulation is used to help maximize efficiency.

• HC4-6 Heating and Cooling:

  Some of the ductwork sags more than allowable. Improved support needed by a qualified HVAC technician

• FSF-1 Foundation and Structural Framing:

  Efflorescence was seen on portions of the concrete footing indicating water saturation. This is typically the result of lack of ground slope away from the building and / or rain gutter downspout discharge too close to the foundation.

• CS-2 Crawl Space:

  Damp soil was seen beneath the structure in the crawlspace. This is likely related to conditions discussed elsewhere regarding adjacent grade. This should be further evaluated by a drainage specialist who can advise regarding the best means of improvement to prevent ongoing issues with water entry and potential corresponding damage to the structure.

• I-1 Interior:

  Stains were seen on the interior wall finish in the basement in the area shown here. This appears to be related to a plumbing leak from the bathroom above and is further discussed later in this report. Repair finishes following correction of the leak.

• I-5 Interior:

  The sash springs that help the sash windows remain in the open position are damaged on several windows. These need to be replaced for proper operation of the windows.

• I-6 Interior:

  Many of the wood windows are painted shut and are not performing as intended. Recommend cutting open all stuck windows and completing repairs to ensure reliable window performance.

• I-7 Interior:

  The window glass near the bathtubs should be safety glass according to current building standards. Updating this glazing is recommended.

• I-10 Interior:

  Areas of apparent organic growth were noted on the interior of the basement storage cabinets at the back of the house. This should be further evaluated by a qualified environmental agency to determine the extent of repairs needed as well as cost. Be aware that health risks are associated with the presence of certain types of organic growth and that additional concealed damage could be present.

• K-2 Kitchen:

  There is a leak where the kitchen sink faucet mounts to the plumbing within the wall. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a qualified plumbing contractor at this time. This condition risks damage to the finishes beneath and there is evidence of water entry to the cabinetry below

• K-3 Kitchen:

  The kitchen sink faucet aerator is missing and should be installed.

• K-4 Kitchen:

  Rust was seen on the flanges for the sink drain and disposer. Have a plumber replace parts as needed to ensure against leaks

• UB-2 Upstairs Bathroom:

  The bathtub drain is leaking and requires immediate repair by a licensed plumber to prevent further water damage to the building.

• UB-4 Upstairs Bathroom:

  This exhaust fan is improperly venting into the attic. Have this extended to the exterior and terminate with use of a back draft damper. This repair may need to be coordinated with both a general and roofing contractor.

• DB-2 Downstairs Bathroom:

  There is a leak where the angle shut off valve attaches to the plumbing coming from the wall which is in need of repair at this time by a qualified plumbing contractor. This would be a good opportunity to replace this older galvanized pipe.

• DB-3 Downstairs Bathroom:

  The P-trap below the second downstairs bathroom sink is corroded. Although not currently leaking replacement is recommended now for improved reliability.

• DB-4 Downstairs Bathroom:

  The escutcheons around the faucets are loose and should be sealed against the shower enclosure to prevent water seepage into the wall.