When repairs are made on the home, I recommend that I be called back to verify that corrections have been satisfactorily made. A minimum assessment of $250.00 will be charged for each Work Order Evaluation Inspection that is requested that I conduct. Additional charges will accrue for anything in writing, beyond an email response, and for evaluations at more than 20 miles travel time--these costs to be agreed upon at the time of the request for further evaluation. REMEDIAL WORK – For any element or condition requiring attention, quotes should be obtained prior to closing from qualified specialists or contractors to determine actual repair/replacement costs.  Any cost estimates provided, whether oral or written, represent only an approximation of possible costs.  Also, any cost estimates do not reflect all possible remedial needs or costs for the property; latent concerns or consequential damage may exist.  If the need for remedial work develops or is uncovered after the inspection, contact Charles Buell Inspections, Inc. to arrange an inspection to assess conditions prior to performing any repairs.

• IF THERE ARE ITEMS WITHIN THIS REPORT THAT REQUIRE RE-INSPECTION, YOU ARE ENCOURAGED TO HAVE ME COMMUNICATE DIRECTLY WITH THOSE HIRED TO MAKE THE CORRECTIONS TO ENSURE THAT REPAIRS ARE PROPERLY MADE.

• There are many things that can be done to improve safety and living conditions within any home. While many of these issues come to light in the course of the Standard Home Inspection there are likely to be other things that can be done to improve the home. Additional information can be found at: Center for Healthy Living

All construction work performed under these specifications must meet standard, good construction practices as to quality of workmanship and materials. Pest control measures must be performed by state licensed applicators in conformance with all current federal, state and local laws. A fee of $250.00 will be charged for each re-inspection (and agreed upon additional costs will apply to re-inspections more than 10 miles travel).

Many elements of the Standard Home Inspection have been excluded from this inspection and deferred to the Condo Association. The buyer should be aware that these excluded elements can potentially impact the inspected home. Any comments in the inspection report regarding these excluded elements, are to help inform the buyer as to the potential for problems in these areas and warrant assurances from the Condo Association as to responsibility for maintenance/remediation of these concerns.

• Consideration must be given to the possibility that defects found in this Condo unit may also exist in other Condo units in the building as well. Repairs to the defects in this unit are not going to be made in the other units and communication with the Condo Association is warranted depending on the nature/severity of the defect.

• Every Condo Association has different covenants and rules. While the components that I have "deferred" to the Condo Association are fairly common they do not necessarily describe the covenants and rules of this Unit. Verification with the Condo Association is recommended. Any component that I have excluded that you later find I should have included, I am happy to come back and re-inspect.

There was some storage and belongings in the unit that limited inspection. The chances that hidden defects will be found when the units are emptied is possible. For a more complete opinion of the overall condition of the building I recommend further evaluation of the units when the units are vacated.

There is a some deferred maintenance and cosmetic defects all around the exterior of the building.  No attempt is made to identify all of these issues but will be mentioned in relation to more serious concerns throughout the report and most are deferred to the Condo Association.

This report does not include evaluation of any soils or geological conditions/concerns. Construction on certain soils, particularly expansive clays, fill soils, hillside and waterfront areas, necessitate special design consideration. Evaluation of these factors, or the need for them, is beyond the scope of this inspection. Pertinent information should be obtained from local officials and/or a qualified specialists, particularly if any concerns are detected or if the building is in a detrimental soils area.

To maintain proper drainage away from the structure, soil adjacent to the foundation should slope at least 1 inch per foot for five feet away from the building. Paved areas should slope at least 1/4 inch per foot. Control of surface drainage is critical to keeping basements and crawl spaces dry. A clearance of 6 inches should be maintained from the soil to the bottom of wood siding or trim on the building, unless the material is pressure treated wood or other material approved for ground contact. Swales around buildings can help manage water and reduce its impact on the building.

Buildings on moderate slopes with areas of steep slope can have water related issues that can not be adequately predicted or observed in a Standard Home Inspection. Vigilant monitoring of the sub-surface spaces (and the grading around the building) is recommended.  Water intrusions/conditions should be evaluated/repaired by a licensed drainage installation company that utilizes the services of a licensed geo-technical engineer.

Asphalt paving should be maintained and cracks sealed as necessary to discourage water entry to the underlying sub-grade which provides the principal support for this type of flexible pavement.

Settlement, water under-mining or heaving caused by expansive soils, tree roots and frost are other conditions associated with asphalt driveways. Repair is not generally necessary unless a trip hazard exists, in which case replacement/repairs to the asphalt is generally required.

Fences around the property are generally excluded from the Standard Home Inspection. However, some information is provided as a courtesy and points of connection to the home itself are inspected. Fences can represent safety issues when they become damaged, derelict or otherwise compromised. Wood decay/rot is common. It also typically cannot be determined who actually owns the fence and communication with neighbors is often necessary to accomplish repairs and/or replacement. Specific evaluation of the fences on the property may be warranted.

A Standard Home Inspection does not include evaluation of elements such as site lighting, irrigation systems, barbecues, sheds, outbuildings, fencing, privacy walls, planters, water features, landscaping retaining structures, retaining walls, and/or recreational elements on the site. Evaluation of these elements, if present, may be warranted, any comments made or made as a courtesy, whether done verbally or included in the written report.

Proper handrails on stairs can promote safe use of the stairs and prevent falls that can result in serious injury or even death. Handrails are required to meet very specific guidelines on all stairs with 4 risers or more. In some cases they are prudent on stairs with fewer risers. The handrail is required to be graspable as defined by building standards. There are three basic types and the following info applies to the handrail(s) at this location:

While these manual release handles are required on doors, some installations are problematic with car racks and other items frequently installed on the roofs of vehicles.

You should be able to lift the door smoothly and with little resistance. It should stay open around three or four feet above the floor. If it does not, it is out of adjustment. Have it adjusted by a qualified service person.

Manufacturers installation instructions require that garage door opener buttons be located more than 60" above the floor to prevent use by small children.

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS (UL & CPSC)
WARNING-To reduce the risk of severe injury or death:

1. READ AND FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS.
2. NEVER LET CHILDREN OPERATE OR PLAY WITH THE DOOR CONTROLS. Keep remote control away from children.
3. Always keep the moving door in sight and away from people, pets and objects until it is completely closed. NO ONE SHOULD CROSS THE PATH OF A MOVING DOOR.
4. TEST THE DOOR OPERATOR MONTHLY. The garage door MUST reverse on contact with a 1-1/2 inch high object (or a piece of two-by-four lumber laid flat) on the floor. If the door doesn't stop and reverse after contact with the object, disconnect the operator and use the door manually until the operator is replaced or repaired by a qualified technician.
5. When possible. USE THE EMERGENCY RELEASE ONLY WHEN THE DOOR IS CLOSED. Use caution when using this release with the door open. Weak or broken springs are capable of increasing the rate of door closure and increasing the risk of severe injury or death.
6. KEEP GARAGE DOORS PROPERLY BALANCED. See owner's manual. An improperly balanced door increases the risk of severe injury or death. Have a qualified service person make repairs to cables, spring assemblies and other hardware.

For additional information on proper maintenance and testing of garage doors see: Overhead Door DASMA Testing Protocols and the attached inspection checklists.

Finish surfaces and/or insulation can conceal missing fire-blocking. When the basement space is fully finished off and/or insulated, evaluation of fire-blocking deficiencies is not usually possible.

• Requirements for fire-blocking and draft-stopping in buildings has changed over the years and varied from jurisdiction to jurisdiction. In general more modern requirements call for "blocking" the spread of fire from lower level spaces to upper level spaces. Some structures also have requirements for installation of protection against the flow of fire horizontally. To achieve this there are specific requirements as to sealing/blocking of spaces around pipes, ducts, chimneys, wiring, framing, laundry chutes, chases etc.

• It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if all fire-blocking and/or draft-stopping is in place, but where it is "obviously" missing I attempt to identify the condition/location and recommend appropriate repairs for improved fire safety.

In addition to the obvious fact that finished surfaces may restrict structural evaluations, it should be noted that no evaluations are made regarding local permits or approvals for such work or use. Compliance regarding egress, escape & rescue, plumbing, heating or electric requirements should be determined by contacting local building officials.

This is a steep roof and maintenance should be performed by qualified roof maintenance professionals taking proper safety precautions.

If the inspection was restricted to viewing from the ground and/or was affected by weather conditions or other limitations, a roofer’s assessment would be advisable, particularly if the roofing is old or age is unknown.

Many criteria are used to "guestimate" the age of the roof. Listing information, age of home, assessor information, google map drive-by pictures, disclosure statements, deterioration or lack thereof of pipe flashings, exposure, roof type and color, and experience are all used to make this judgment--it is NOT absolute and should not be taken as such.

Finish surfaces and/or insulation can conceal missing fire-blocking. When the basement space is fully finished off and/or insulated, evaluation of fire-blocking deficiencies is not usually possible.

• Requirements for fire-blocking and draft-stopping in homes has changed over the years and varied from jurisdiction to jurisdiction. In general more modern requirements call for "blocking" the spread of fire from lower level spaces to upper level spaces. Some structures also have requirements for installation of protection against the flow of fire horizontally. To achieve this there are specific requirements as to sealing/blocking of spaces around pipes, ducts, chimneys, wiring, framing, laundry chutes, chases etc.

• It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if all fire-blocking and/or draft-stopping is in place, but where it is "obviously" missing I attempt to identify the condition/location and recommend appropriate repairs for improved fire safety.

Even-if/Unless it was raining at the time of inspection, it is not always possible to determine if gutters leak/overflow. Monitoring the gutters for leaks when it is raining is recommended. Leaking/overflowing gutters should be repaired to prevent damage to roof/fascia structures.
Properly functioning gutters, downspouts, and splash blocks or drain piping are critical to protect the foundation from moisture intrusion. Gutters should be cleaned as needed and leaky joints sealed.

It was common practice in older homes to install short sections of pipe next to the foundation as a place to terminate the downspouts at. These pipes were not actually connected to underground pipes and drainage was provided by the installation of gravel at the end of the pipe or sometimes just relied on the natural ability of the ground to absorb the water. These types of drains are rarely "functional" and overflowing of this short section of pipe is common.

This report provides an opinion of the general condition of the roof system based on a visual inspection of representative areas. The inspector does not offer an opinion or warranty as to whether the roof leaks or is subject to future leakage.

• Leaks not showing up at the time of inspection is not unusual. Water stains on ceilings, walls, and soffits that tested dry at the time of inspection may very well test elevated for moisture under other conditions or at another time.
  
• Specific notation of leakage or stains does not preclude additional areas of leakage and/or hidden damage. Monitor attic for any changes; ongoing or questionable situations should be assessed and corrected. Leakage can lead to Mold or Mold-like/Fungal Growth.

• It is very common for there to be multiple layers of different kinds of insulation in the attic. It is possible for hidden layers to be discovered especially when the attics could not be inspected.

GENERAL ELECTRICAL SAFETY WARNING: Even if the electricity has been turned off at the main disconnect, sections of the electrical system prior to the main breaker are still charged with electricity and can be lethal if contacted. I recommend that all changes/corrections made to the electrical system be performed by a licensed electrical contractor.

The electrical service is the set of wires that run from the street or power pole to the main breaker panel or fuse box. In this home the service runs underground. Evaluation of the underground portion of these systems is limited to the portions that show above ground.

Most electrical connection lugs have very specific requirements as to torqueing. Loose connections are a primary mode of failure of electrical connections potentially leading to arcing and fires. It is beyond the scope of the inspection to verify proper torqueing of connections and it is recommended that proper torqueing of connections be verified by the licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs/improvements at the home.

When the ground system is not checked at the time of inspection, I recommend it be checked by the licensed electrical contractor when they are at the home for other electrical repairs/installation

There are numerous considerations related to the bonding of flexible gas piping systems. Regardless of whether it is "black" or "yellow" CSST, they both require bonding. Black CSST has a built-in bonding mesh that allows it to be bonded per the same requirements of bonding of rigid gas piping systems. Yellow CSST has "special" requirements for bonding and it is often improperly bonded. This particular system appears to be bonded per current requirements. This is merely informational as no Yellow CSST was noted at the time of inspection.

Remote Distribution Panels (Sub-panels) are other electrical panels in the home/building that do not contain the  service wiring.  Distribution Panels may be found in larger homes for improved accessibility and/or convenience, in detached buildings such as garages, or in situations where there is a need for additional circuits after another distribution panel is full. This panel may be right next to other panels or in other buildings on the property. 

Tandem breakers (or duplex breakers) (also called, mini-breakers, peanut breakers, half-height breakers, twin breakers, slim breakers, piggy-back breakers etc) are breakers that are designed to provide two circuits in place of a typical single breaker. Most panel legends specifically state where these breakers can be installed, whether or not they are allowed at all, and how many are allowed. It is typically beyond the scope of the inspection to determine appropriateness of some installations.

• Changes to the electrical system may require elimination of tandem breakers where the circuits are required to have AFCI protection.

For proper access to the panel there should be an area 30" wide and 3' deep in front of the panel (clear all the way to the floor. A minimum of 6'-6" of headroom in front of the panel is recommended and the top of the panel should be at least 5-1/2' above the floor.

Current standards require "lock-out" devices on appliances that are "hard-wired" back to the electrical panel disconnect (unless the appliance is in the line of sight of the electrical panel). This is for the safety of persons servicing the appliances.

Voltage surges can be a costly example of the power interference that occurs in Buildings every day.  This momentary rise in voltage can start inside or outside a Building and damage sensitive electronic equipment such as computer, Building entertainment center, treadmills, and all the other --often expensive -- equipment found in most Buildings today.

• Conventional surge protectors in the home cannot protect against large surges from lightning and it is still considered best practice to unplug expensive appliances during a lightning storm.

• Whole Building surge arresters should be installed at the Building's electrical service panel by professional, licensed electrical contractors. There are dozens of different makes, models and styles of surge arresters on the market, which vary greatly in both price and quality. The type and size of the service panel, how full the panel is, as well as the investment in appliances and electronic devices that need to be protected all play a role in determining which surge arrester should be installed.  Your service professional, after inspecting the Building and service panel, will make the recommendation as to the appropriate product to be installed.

There are several multi-wire circuits in the home.  Multi wire circuits are wires that "share" a neutral conductor back to the Service panel.  When this is done care must be taken to ensure that the two hot conductors end up on separate bus bars at the Service panel.  It is also critical with these multi-wire circuits that the neutral be continuous by any devices it needs to be attached to throughout the circuits. The circuits in this panel appear to be properly wired in that respect.

• For more information on Multi-Wire circuits please see the following link: Multi-Wire Circuits.

In multi-wire branch circuits, the continuity of a grounded conductor cannot depend on device connections such as lamp-holders, receptacles, etc---where the removal of such devices would interrupt continuity.

It is very common in some areas for the voltage to be higher than 120 volts on the house circuits. (1-4 volts higher) When this occurs light bulbs rated at 120 volts do not last as long. I recommend installing bulbs rated for 130 volts. While these bulbs aren't as readily available they will last longer (they can be found at electrical supply stores).

• This condition is not considered problematic with LED type bulbs as they supposedly handle wider voltage ranges.

As of July 1st, 2014, any receptacle replaced in a home must be provided with AFCI protection when the receptacle is being replaced in circuits that require AFCI protection (See AFCI section of this report below). This can be accomplished at the receptacle itself, at a point downstream of the receptacle or at the panel where the circuit originates. Whenever possible protecting the entire circuit is considered best practice.

• In the context of any electrical panel replacement, the installation of AFCI breakers on all circuits that currently require AFCI protection is considered best practice.

Lights that are switched from multiple locations (like 3-way and 4-way switches) can sometimes be wired improperly so that if one of the switches is in the wrong position the lights will not work from the other location.  This miswiring of switches is often not found during the course of a Standard Home Inspection due to not testing the circuit with all possible combination of options.  When this condition is discovered, repairs are usually quite simple when performed by a licensed electrician.

Can lights, whether modern air-tight type cans or older non-insulation contact cans, can be a major contributor to heat loss and air movement into roof structures.  This is difficult to determine during the course of a home inspection but if moisture issues are apparent or become apparent in the roof structure, these lights should be considered one possible cause of the issue.  Blower door tests can be performed to determine how well sealed can lights are.

Porcelain bulb holders pose a risk of fire from stored items and are subject to mechanical damage. I recommend as an upgrade, replacement of these bulb holders with fixtures approved for closet installation and or not so subject to mechanical damage.

Ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) can help prevent electrocution inside and outside the home. GFCIs are an effective means of protecting against electrical shock, however, they must be tested regularly -- UL recommends once a month -- to verify they are working properly.

1. Plug a nightlight (with an "ON/OFF" switch) or other product (such as a lamp or 3-bulb circuit tester) into the GFCI receptacle and turn the product "ON."
2. Push the "Test" button located on the GFCI receptacle. The nightlight (or other product) or circuit should go "OFF."
3. Push the "Reset" button. The light or circuit should go "ON" again.
4. Circuit breaker type GFCI devices are checked by pushing the test button on the breaker.

Modern GFCI receptacles and breakers have "self-testing" capabilities but hey still should be tested manually per manufacturer's instructions.

It cannot always be easily determined if there are two appliance circuits present and the presence of two GFCI devices is not always an indication of two separate circuits.

According to the NEC (National Electric Code): "Older homes are statistically more vulnerable to electrical fires. Extra protection for older homes is provided by the gradual replacement, over time, of non-AFCI-protected receptacles with new AFCI-protected ones."

At the time of inspection Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors are not tested.  I recommend that prior to move-in, that all Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors be tested and have their batteries replaced.  It is recommended that Carbon Monoxide detectors that are older than 5 years should be replaced by a licensed electrical contractor if they are hard-wired; and replaced by the homeowner/handy-person if they are battery operated.  These devices are currently required, according to Washington State Law to be maintained by the tenant/homeowner according to the manufacturer's recommendations/instructions and are required in all homes.

• For optimum safety, Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors are required in the immediate vicinity of bedrooms and on each floor level of the home and inside of any sleeping room if there is a gas appliance in the room.  "Immediate vicinity" is not defined but most manufacturers recommend they be installed between 5 and 20 feet of sleeping rooms.  Alarm/detectors must be maintained free of dust and debris which can interfere with operation.  They should be installed per manufacturer's instructions .  While it is primarily fuel burning appliances the produce carbon monoxide, CO is also produced from electric appliances like toasters and ranges (especially ovens on self clean cycle).

• Please be aware that residential Carbon Monoxide detectors are cumulative and are designed to not sound with low levels of carbon monoxide.  Some people are more susceptible than others to low levels of carbon monoxide and I consider it prudent to familiarize yourself with the symptoms/warning signs of Carbon Monoxide.  Detectors that meet the UL-2034 requirements for detectors installed in residential construction are not allowed to sound at continuous CO levels up to 30 ppm, 70 ppm for 4 hours, 150 ppm for up to 50 minutes and 400 ppm for up to 15 minutes. CARBON MONOXIDE

• Combination type alarms can be problematic even while meeting "legal requirements" for installation.  Carbon Monoxide detectors in conjunction with Ionization type smoke detectors is problematic due to the poor ion technology (see links under smoke alarms previous to this section).  The devices also can have different life spans.  For best protection, combination type alarms should not be used, even though this is a standard recommendation of manufacturers.  The International Association of Fire Fighters (IAFF) specifically recommends against installing combination alarms.  Combination type alarms are required to be UL-217 and UL-2034 listed. 

At the time of inspection smoke alarms are not tested.  I recommend that prior to move-in, that all smoke alarms be tested according to manufacturer's recommendations and that their batteries be replaced.  It is recommended that smoke alarms that are older than 5-7 years should be replaced by a licensed electrical contractor if they are hard-wired; and replaced by the homeowner/handy-person if they are battery operated.

• For optimum safety, hard-wired smoke alarms with backup batteries are recommended in each bedroom, and hallways outside of bedrooms.  At least one smoke alarm should be installed on each floor of the home. Alarms must be maintained free of dust and debris which can interfere with operation.

• Smoke alarm technology is evolving and current wisdom is going in the direction of recommending that only Photoelectric smoke alarms be installed in the home due to the nuisance tripping and other human factors involved with misuse and maintenance associated with Ionization type smoke alarms.  It is not possible in the context of the home inspection to determine why types of alarms are installed in the home.  You are encouraged to install and maintain any type of alarm in the home and you are encouraged to upgrade alarms to photoelectric type alarms. See the following link for a discussion of Ionization vs. Photoelectric Alarms: Photo-Electric Smoke Alarms and Silent Alarms; Deadly Differences.

SMOKE ALARM Maintenance

• Clean regularly. Dust and debris will interfere with normal operation.
• Replace batteries at least once a year---or better yet install 10yr type batteries.
• Schedule regular maintenance and tests. The Consumer Products Safety Commission recommends checking these alarms every Spring & Fall time change. Tests should be performed according to manufacturer's instructions.

• It is not usually possible in the context of a home inspection to determine whether smoke alarms are Ionization type or photoelectric type

• Low voltage wiring systems, including timers and sensors, are not part of this inspection.

• Security and alarm systems are not within the scope of this inspection.

• Evaluation of auxiliary, low voltage, electric or electronic equipment (e.g., TV, doorbell, computer, cable, lightning protection, surge protection, low voltage lighting, intercoms, site lighting, etc.,) is not performed as part of a standard home inspection.
  
• Unless otherwise noted no determination is made as to whether any electrical component has the proper UL Listing. Permanently installed light fixtures made in other countries sometimes do not have the proper UL Listing indicated on them.

Functional flow at individual fixture locations will not be further discussed at individual fixture locations. However there is some possibility that cleaning fixture valves, screens and interior components could improve flow--at least temporarily.

No assessment of the proper function of backflow valves can be made during a standard home inspection. These valves must be inspected and tested once a year in most jurisdictions. I recommend that this valve be tested by a qualified back flow valve testing company as required.

Back Flow valves are recommended and required in some jurisdictions when lawn sprinkler systems are installed. These valves require yearly testing and maintenance and are typically located at the water meter.

• No assessment of the proper function of backflow valves can be made during a standard home inspection. These valves must be inspected and tested once a year in most jurisdictions. I recommend that this valve be tested by a qualified back flow valve testing company as required.

No assessment of the proper function of backflow valves can be made during a standard home inspection. These valves must be inspected and tested once a year in most jurisdictions. I recommend that this valve be tested by a qualified back flow valve testing company as required.

• Back Flow valves are required when fire-suppression systems are installed. These valves require yearly testing and maintenance and are typically located inside the home.

It is it is not likely, sufficient water will be used during the course of the inspection that would duplicate actual use of the drainage systems of the home under all scenarios. Plugged drains are quite common in homes and the interior condition of drains can not typically be determined or predicted.

The gas meter is typically the property of the local utility. All concerns regarding the meter should be directed to the gas utility.

• Where the gas pipe comes out of the ground to the meter there is often a Yellow (usually) Tracer wire. This wire is not supposed to be connected to anything and is only there to assist anyone trying to locate the underground plastic pipe out to the street.

Under certain conditions, hydrogen gas may be produced in a hot water system that has not been used for two weeks or more. HYDROGEN GAS IS EXPLOSIVE. If the hot water system has not been used for two weeks or more, turn on all hot water faucets and let the water flow from each for several minutes. This will release any accumulated hydrogen gas. As the gas is flammable, do not smoke or use an open flame during this time. It is a good idea to keep this in mind when getting home from vacation /traveling.

Leaking water heaters can be very costly, causing extensive property damage. Installation of a WAGS (Water and Gas Shut-off) Valve can minimize damage. These valves can be installed on any kind of water heater and require a pan under the heater and can even be used on water heaters that have pans with drains. For more information please see the following link: WAGS VALVE

A sediment trap is located as close to the appliance as possible and is designed to filter out any small amounts of debris in the pipes that might be in the gas-stream that could clog the valves of the appliance. It is required to be located house side of the gas shut-off for the appliance.

It is not always possible to assess at the time of inspection whether there is adequate combustion air provided. It is my intent to report on conditions indicative of the lack of combustion air.

• A combustion type water heater must have an adequate source of combustion air for the fuel to burn properly. An inadequate air supply may cause incomplete combustion and can produce carbon monoxide.

A temperature and pressure relief (TPR) valve is required on all water heaters to discharge any excessive pressure within the tank.  A discharge pipe should be attached to the TPR valve and directed to a safe location away from body contact.  Newer installations must be directed to the building exterior or to an approved indoor drain receptor.  Most manufacturers suggest that homeowners test the TPR valve at least once a year by lifting the lever to ensure the valve discharges properly.  The picture to the right shows a typical top-of-tank type TPR Valve.  They may also be found on the side of the heater on some models.  I do not test these valves due to the possibility that they may leak after testing.  A leaking or inoperative TPR Valve should be replaced immediately by a licensed plumber.

Water Heaters located on finished floors should have trays to prevent damage from flooding. When possible it is also recommended that the tray have a drain to the exterior to prevent overflow of the tray. High water alarms can be installed to monitor trays without drains.

Expansion tanks are required to be "charged" with air to match the building water pressure or the to the requirements of the heating system to function properly. In the course of a Standard Home Inspection no determination is possible as to whether the tank is properly charged or functional at all. Have the licensed plumber verify proper charging and operation of the tank when they are at the home for other reasons. Information about Thermal Expansion

Having plenty of hot water is not just a convenience, it is considered a necessity in modern homes. However, there are competing concerns related to having plenty of hot water. On the one hand we want to prevent scalding. On the other hand it is a good idea to keep water hot enough to prevent water-borne bacteria from flourishing. It is actually quite complicated to accomplish both goals with storage-tank type water heaters.

• This is further complicated by Washington State Home Inspector Standards of practice that require us to report when the tested water temperature is above 120 degrees Fahrenheit (including a statement that the generally accepted safe temperature is 120 degrees Fahrenheit). Another complication is that some dishwashers do not have integral water heaters and prefer much hotter water coming to it from the primary water heater.
  
• This information however only address one of the safety concerns--and can actually make the other concern worse. Temperature below 120 degrees Fahrenheit is considered ideal for the growth of harmful bacteria inside the tank--such as Legionella. Keeping the tank temperature between 135 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit can greatly reduce the risk of growing bacteria in the tank but is not a guarantee. For example, Legionella Bacteria can survive extreme hot water and chemical treatment by forming a parasitic relationship with amoebae that are not affected by these treatments. While rare, it is still considered prudent, given the current state of knowledge, to maintain the tank water temperature between 135 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit to at least provide some degree of protection.
  
• While "generally-healthy-people" are fairly resistant to infection, some patient populations (organ transplants, diabetes, cancers, kidney disease etc), immunocompromised persons, heavy smokers, heavy drinkers, the elderly and infants can be expected to have higher death rates or incidence of more severe illness if the bacteria is present in sufficient numbers. Some authorities assert that an increase in incidence can be expected with an increased focus on conserving energy (lowering the thermostat on the water heater). The science around all of this is ongoing and new information should be anticipated.

But what about scalding?

Preventing scalding requires a multifaceted approach.

1. We must resort to good sense: • Never leave a child or the infirm alone while drawing water in a bathtub, and check the water temperature before putting your child or the infirm in the tub. • Test the water temperature before bathing or showering. • Turn the cold water on first, then add hot water until the temperature is comfortable. • Teach children to turn the cold water on first, and the hot water off first.
2. Provide a mechanical means (Thermostatic mixing valve) of lowering the temperature to below 120 degrees Fahrenheit at either the points of use or at the water heater itself to protect the whole house. Because these devices can fail, we must always keep #1 in mind.

For additional information on this issue please check out the links below:

• Legionella: Health Advisory
• Legionella
• Legionnaires' Disease

Thermostatic mixing valves:

• Thermostatic mixing valves located at the water heater are designed to reduce hot water temperatures in the tank to levels considered safe at points of use (sinks tubs etc). They can be adjusted and should be periodically checked to verify function. These valves are desirable so that tank temperatures can be maintained high enough to limit bacteria growth inside the water heater while at the same time providing water a safe temperatures where desired.

Yard/Lawn irrigation systems are not included in a Standard Home Inspection. These systems can be inspected at an additional cost, but are otherwise excluded. Typically I do check to make sure back-blow valves are in place and will note implications of observed defects in relation to components that are covered by this inspection. For more information about back-flow valves see: Backflow Valve Information, Backflow Preventers

• I recommend obtaining all pertinent information about operation and maintenance of the lawn irrigation system.

Fire suppression systems are not included in a Standard Home Inspection. These systems can be inspected at an additional cost, but are otherwise excluded. Typically I do check to make sure back-blow valves are in place and will note implications of observed defects in relation to components that are covered by this inspection (such as broken sprinkler heads and obvious leaking).

• It is recommended that suppression systems be tested according to the manufacturer's testing recommendations.

• Make sure you obtain all necessary information regarding proper maintenance of the fire suppression system.

I recommend obtaining all pertinent information about operation and maintenance of the fire suppression system.

The life expectancy of a mid efficiency gas furnace is approximately 20 to 25 years. This figure can vary widely depending on many factors. All such furnaces from this time period should be considered past there useful life and should be replaced for safety and efficiency reasons.

• The “heart” of a furnace is a metal chamber referred to as a heat exchanger. All or most areas of the heat exchanger are not readily accessible or visible to a home inspector. Therefore, assessment of a furnace is limited to external and operational conditions. The older the unit, the greater the probability of failure. A thorough inspection by a qualified HVAC contractor is advised for a full evaluation of heat exchanger conditions, particularly when the unit is beyond its expected useful life.

It is not always possible to assess at the time of inspection whether there is adequate combustion air provided. It is my intent to report on conditions indicative of the lack of combustion air.

A combustion type furnace must have an adequate source of combustion air for the fuel to burn properly. An inadequate air supply may cause incomplete combustion and can produce carbon monoxide. This unit appeared to have adequate combustion/dilution air.

The inspection of a ducted heating system is primarily focused on whether heat is being delivered to the various locations throughout the home.  Register temperatures will be taken by infrared camera to find significant differences in temperatures delivered but it must be kept in mind these measurements are "relative" and not exact due to the way infrared sees surface temperature.  Temperatures will be skewed by the type of register surface, the distance from the surface as well as velocity of air at the register.  While measuring air temperature with a thermometer would be a more accurate way to test the temperature, this takes considerably more time and would not typically result in significant improvement of the information designed to verify heat is being delivered to the locations.  This also does not provide any indication as to how the system will function when it is really cold out, unless it happened to be very cold at the time of inspection.  It also cannot therefor determine whether the system is too small or too big.  All of these questions are best directed to a licensed HVAC contractor in the context of your due diligence.

Ductwork Interiors: It is typically not possible to evaluate the interior of ductwork as to condition or the presence of detrimental materials or other conditions. Hidden conditions can include evidence of rodent and/or other vermin activity, dust/debris, water, vegetation, tobacco smoke etc.

Is Duct Cleaning Really Necessary?

Heating ducts can accumulate dust over time. Under most conditions, where filters are properly maintained, cleaning of ductwork is discouraged. Properly cleaning ductwork is more complicated than merely hiring a duct cleaning contractor and having the ducts "cleaned." Standard cleaning protocols can result in introducing more dirt particles into the indoor environment than would occur had the ducts been left alone. There is significant evidence to support the idea that the dust inside ductwork actually acts as a filter itself to promote clean air in the home. Obviously if the ductwork becomes contaminated with toxic chemicals, or have been flooded etc will need to be cleaned and/or possibly be replaced. Ductwork must be adequately protected from dust during remodeling activities and if this is not done the ductwork will likely require cleaning and/or replacement. For more information on the pros and cons of duct cleaning please see: Is Duct Cleaning Really Necessary?

Whole-house air exchangers for cool climates helps reduce excess moisture problems -- like condensation on windows -- that contribute to Mold/Fungal Growth. This is especially true of HRV's that also filter the air as well.  It’s the same principle as using your bathroom exhaust fan to remove moisture created by running the shower. For more information see the following link: Home Ventilation

Many homes built since the early 90's have windows with air inlet vents that allow controlled entry of fresh air into the home usually in conjunction with mechanical ventilation fans on timers. These opening clog with lint/debris overtime and must be periodically cleaned/maintained.

While determining the presence of "Safety Glazing" in the home is beyond the Standards of Practice, I endeavor to identify safety glazing when possible to improve safety. In this report Safety Glazing is generically used to refer to any of the types of safety glazing including "Laminated Safety Glass", "Tempered Safety Glass" etc. The requirements for safety glazing in homes has changed over the years and varies from jurisdiction to jurisdiction. Questions of the appropriateness or lack of safety glazing in this home should be addressed to the local building department.

No determination is made as to whether the unit owner is responsible for the Unit's windows or whether they are the responsibility of the Condo Association.

The "Security" of any home is never absolute. At the time of inspection I assess the "basic functionality" of door and window locking mechanisms. No assessment of the individual or overall effectiveness of security is implied. Glass, frames, locks and other elements can be prone to "tampering" and are "limiting factors" of locking mechanisms/systems. All security devices and systems must be balanced against the ease of escape in the event of emergency. Concerns about the home's overall security system should be addressed by a licensed home security company.

Ghosting from air leakage at weather-stripping around the door is consistent with door not closing tightly against the weather-stripping and is indicative of a place of air leakage when the house is under negative and/or positive pressure.

For proper function of the furnace there must be sufficient air flow for the air entering at the heat registers to be able to flow to the furnace air return. When carpeting, etc. interfere with this flow, I recommend that homeowner/handyperson cut off the bottom of the door to allow for a minimum of 3/4".

The items listed below were present at the time of inspection. These items can conceal damage to walls/floors. Concealed defects are not within the scope of the home inspection. Some of these conditions may only become apparent in the course of remodeling or other more invasive investigations. Carpeting, Area Rugs, Furnishings, Built-in Cabinets, Appliances, Storage Items, Curtains/Blinds, Mirrors, etc.

All houses are potentially subject to indoor air quality concerns due to numerous factors such as improper venting systems, out-gassing from construction materials, etc. Air quality can also be adversely affected by the growth of molds, fungi and other microorganisms – most are the result of adverse moisture conditions. A home inspection does not include assessment of potential health or environmental contaminants or allergens. If leakage occurs or detrimental moisture conditions exist or develop the possibility of potentially harmful contaminants exists and therefore should be immediately addressed. For air quality evaluations, a qualified testing firm should be contacted.

All combustion appliances require air for proper combustion. Homes with inadequate means of introducing air for these combustion appliances are at risk of the build-up of harmful combustion by-products and back-drafting of the exhaust from these systems. Other mechanical exhaust fans can also compete for intake air and complicate the problem. Assurances are warranted that there is adequate sources of makeup air for both combustion appliances and exhaust fans.

Generally, throughout the home (including bathrooms, kitchen, laundry etc) the floors have some mechanical damage and wear consistent with age and use. Concerns that warrant additional mention, if any, will be described in more detail in the flooring section of the individual rooms below.

Generally, throughout the home (including bathrooms, kitchen, laundry etc) the walls and ceilings have some drywall tape joints, and some painting/repair/touch up noted typical of most drywall installations. Concerns that warrant additional mention, if any, will be described in more detail in the walls & ceiling sections of the individual rooms below or in the narrative portion of the report.

Possible gas line leaks or defects should be corrected immediately. Each gas appliance should have a gas shut off located in the same room/area as the unit.

Require bedroom windows that are used to meet secondary escape and rescue requirements, meet certain size parameters. Not only are they required to be a "minimum" of 24" high and a "minimum" of 20" wide, these minimum dimensions will vary depending on how tall or wide the window opening is as well as whether the window is at grade or at upper levels of the home. There must also be a minimum of 5 sq ft of "net opening" for windows at grade (5.7 sq ft at higher floor levels). The bottom of the window opening must also not be more than 44" above the floor as well. Upgrading older windows to meet current standards is recommended--especially when replacing the windows.

Some cracks in wall and ceiling finishes can result from normal building settlement or drywall shrinkage. "Nail popping" is common in most homes with drywall. These types of flaws can generally be easily patched--and tend to re-appear over time. While the inspector may comment on such flaws, cosmetic issues are not the focus of the inspection.

Acrylic, fiberglass and other resin-based pre-fab bathtub units are subject to damage with normal use or improper maintenance. Surfaces may become scratched, discolored and/or difficult to clean. Cracks can also develop. These may not be readily visible; and may open up depending on shower usage. Check periodically for damage and resultant leakage.

When applicable (not installed on concrete) floors around toilets are checked with a moisture meter.

The typical test to see if a fan in pulling air from the room is done by placing a tissue on the fan grille when it is running. If it will not hold the tissue under test the unit is not functioning properly and further evaluation and repairs is recommended. A second method of testing involves seeing if during operation of the fan enough negative pressure is created for their to be air movement under the closed bathroom door. This can also be tested with tissue paper. These are both very limited types of tests.

Acrylic, fiberglass and other resin-based pre-fab bathtub units are subject to damage with normal use or improper maintenance. Surfaces may become scratched, discolored and/or difficult to clean. Cracks can also develop. These may not be readily visible; and may open up depending on shower usage. Check periodically for damage and resultant leakage.

When applicable (not installed on concrete) floors around toilets are checked with a moisture meter.

The typical test to see if a fan in pulling air from the room is done by placing a tissue on the fan grille when it is running. If it will not hold the tissue under test the unit is not functioning properly and further evaluation and repairs is recommended. A second method of testing involves seeing if during operation of the fan enough negative pressure is created for their to be air movement under the closed bathroom door. This can also be tested with tissue paper. These are both very limited types of tests.

Ranges are only inspected as to basic function---do they turn off and on. How well the perform is not possible in the context of a standard home inspection. Each users experience can be different. Ranges often have issues with noting being level/plumb, oven lights, door gaskets, scorching around gaskets, broken door glass, inadequate/broken door springs, missing shelves/racks, loose/broken door and/or drawer pulls, non-functional indicator lights, non-functional timers, mechanical damage etc. Some of these things may be discussed in the Narrative portion of this report.

Jurisdictions vary on what is considered "accessible" regarding the gas shut-off for the range.  I do not consider the shut-off being behind the range as being accessible and recommend re-location of the shut-off to an adjacent cabinet for ease of access.  I recommend verifying that the shut-off is currently installed in an "approved" location.  If it is, I still recommend a more accessible installation as an upgrade.  If it is not, I recommend proper repairs by qualified plumber.

Maintaining proper temperatures inside of refrigerators/freezers can be difficult.  Obtaining thermometers to place in refrigerators and freezers to continually monitor interior temperatures is recommended for food safety.  When the temperature of the refrigerator compartment is above 38 degrees F, the setting should be lowered for the safe keeping of food. When the temperature of the freezer compartment is above 5 degrees F, the setting should be lowered for the safe keeping of food.

Evidence of past leaks under kitchen sinks is common. While I endeavor to verify current leaks at the time of inspection sometimes leaks are incidental or due to specific uses not duplicated at the time of inspection. Monitoring of moisture conditions under sinks should be a normal part of routine home maintenance.

• Appliances are not moved during the inspection.
  
• Dishes and other kitchen storage items can limit inspection of cabinets and countertops. These areas should be reviewed during a final walk-through.
  
• Oven self-cleaning operation, timers, and thermostat accuracy are not tested.
  
• Refrigerators, freezers, water dispensers, and ice makers are not tested.

Dryer exhaust ducts should be independent of all other systems, should convey the moisture to the outdoors, should terminate on the outside of the building in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions and should be equipped with a back-draft damper. 

• Exhaust ducts (from the Laundry Room wall to the point of termination at the exterior) should be constructed of rigid metal ducts, having smooth interior surfaces with joints running in the direction of air flow. Screens should not be installed at the duct termination. Exhaust ducts should not be connected with sheet-metal screws or any means which extend into the duct. (Screens and screws can trap lint.)

•  Every dryer should have a screen filter to help keep dryer lint from entering the vent pipe itself.  This filter must be maintained clean at all times and clogging this screen will result in increased drying time as well be a fire hazard.  Some fabric softeners, sheet or liquid types, also clog these screens and air flow is reduced even when the screen "looks" clean.  Avoiding these products is recommended and using more natural alternatives is a possibility.

• The short piece of duct that connects the dryer to the pipe that runs to the exterior of the building is called the dryer transition duct or connector.  This connector is required to be UL-2158A listed and be constructed of smooth wall metal, corrugated metal, or foil types that are UL-2158A listed.  Dryer manufacturers do not recommend foil type connectors, and most “common” foil type air connectors do not meet the required standard.  Under extreme heat (during field testing) aluminum ducts of all kinds do poorly as connectors (even when UL-2158A listed), but the common foil types perform much worse and should never be used as transition duct.  All of these types of transition ducts are extremely vulnerable to mechanical damage, which results in either leaks or restriction of air flow.  There is one foil type dryer transition duct, that exceeds UL-2158A standard that holds up much better under extreme heat than either smooth wall metal or corrugated metal and is the one I recommend as best practice.  DryerFlex™ type of transition connector typically cannot be purchased from your local big-box stores and is sold by duct cleaning and maintenance companies--or can be ordered on line.

• Regardless of code or UL listing, he National Fire Prevention Association (NFPA) recommend only rigid metal or corrugated metal transition duct be used. NFPA Dryer Safety Tips

• Given dryers are one of the most common causes of household fires, I consider it prudent to use the best transition duct possible and to keep the vent system and dryer itself as free of lint build-up as possible.  Annual professional cleaning is recommended.

Dryer vent pipe requirements for any particular brand of dryer cannot usually be determined during a typical home inspection. All dryer manufacturers have maximum lengths of runs and those lengths can be greatly reduced by whether the vent pipe is vertical or horizontal, how many elbows the run has and even the type of termination cap. All new or replacement installations should verify that any piping already in place meets the requirements of the specific dryer manufacturer and modified as deemed necessary by the appliance installer per manufacturer's installation instructions.

Washing machine drain lines can be difficult (if not impossible) to fully assess in the context of a Standard Home Inspection.  Back-ups and clogging of these drains is very common.  Sometimes the drain only backs up after two or three loads and appears to drain satisfactorily with  only occasional loads of laundry.  Monitoring of these drains while using the washer is encouraged until a realistic level of confidence about the drains functionality can be determined.  Water coming out of the drain indicated poor drainage and should be further evaluated by a qualified plumber.

Evidence of past leaks under laundry sinks is common. While I endeavor to verify current leaks at the time of inspection sometimes leaks are incidental or due to specific uses not duplicated at the time of inspection. Monitoring of moisture conditions under sinks should be a normal part of routine home maintenance.

• Appliances are not moved during the inspection.

In accordance with the provisions of the Revised Code of Washington (RAW) 15.58.450, this report relates to a single sale, transfer, exchange, or refinance and is not transferable to and may not be relied upon by parties involved in any subsequent sale, transfer, exchange, or refinance of the same property.

• The findings listed within this report are determined by the inspector based on a visual inspection conducted in accordance with Washington Administrative Code (WAC) 16-228-2005 through 2045 and are subject to the limitations within this report, the standards listed below, and as modified by any and all associated reports attached.
  
• This inspector endeavors to perform their services in a professional manner consistent with the care and skill ordinarily exercised by structural pest inspection professionals. This inspector will re-perform any services not meeting this standard without additional compensation.
  
• For every inspection a "site-plan" diagram is prepared detailing the locations of Wood Destroying Organism issues. WAC 16-228-2045 requires that a diagram be prepared for WDO Inspection Reports. A copy is available upon request.

Condominiums, due to the multiple-ownership of the structure, represent special problems associated with the inspection and reporting of Wood Destroying Organisms. While I endeavor to inspect the unit involved with the purchase for Wood Destroying Organisms and Conducive Conditions, many typically inspected areas must be excluded due to lack of access or that the areas are the responsibility of the Condo Association. Because problems in these areas may ultimately affect you either financially or physically, I recommend asking the Condo Association what maintenance plans are in place for the routine inspection of common areas and the overall building structure--including all crawl spaces and attics.

Specific locations of Wood Destroying Organisms and Conducive Conditions are more completely described in the report component where the organisms and/or deterioration and or conducive condition was observed. This section gives more detailed information on the life cycles/habits of the various organisms and their recommended treatment/remediation.

Wood Decay Fungi (wood rot), are filamentous organisms which begin as microscopic spores that land on the surface of wood, and germinate to produce thin strand like cells called hyphae. Hyphae grow through the wood and secrete enzymes which degrade and weaken the wood. Decay requires: (1)adequate moisture, (2)ambient temperature (32º to 110º), (3) oxygen, (4) a food source. Wood moisture levels above 20-30% are considered conducive to wood fungal rot. Damaged wood typically will need to be replaced. Ultimately the source of moisture must be eliminated even if all of the fungal organism cannot be eliminated.

Conducive Conditions in buildings with no crawl spaces consists of any materials on the property that can provide food or habitat for wood destroying organisms. These materials can consist of plumbing leaks, form boards left in place, storage items, roots and other vegetation etc.

Many Wood Destroying Organisms have dormant periods and can operate unseen behind walls and insulation. While I attempt to identify rot and insect infestation whenever I can, there can never be any guarantee that there are no infestations of any kind in the home just because infestations were not seen at the time of inspection. Maintaining the home free of Wood Destroying Organisms is an ongoing process that requires vigilance and immediate attention when discovered.

• Interiors of walls and finished floors/ceilings/roofs can not be "directly" inspected for Wood Destroying Organisms.
• No treatment of Wood Destroying Organisms is provided as part of a Standard Home Inspection.