In the course of the inspection I am looking for obvious, and not so obvious, clues as to problems with components or systems. At times, a repair can be as expensive as replacement and sometimes additional problems or damage are found when work begins. In fact, a defect in one system or component can cause a related problem at another location that was not apparent at the time of the inspection. It is recommended that you obtain, at a minimum, estimates from specialists for service/repairs or replacement/upgrades of any components or systems that may be potentially costly, dangerous or complex to fix or replace--in a time frame consistent with proper due diligence. If repairs are completed prior to closing, you will minimize the chances of any unexpected surprises after closing. In performing one's due diligence, it is important the client not only follow through on the recommendations I make in this report but any other concerns that may arise in the course of called for repairs. This report should never be taken as an end in itself, but merely part of the "process" of due diligence. It is in no way meant to interfere with the decisions you must make in order to move forward with the transaction, it is merely what I consider best advice.

While on-site, all professional repair people should be asked to further evaluate the condition of the system, structural components or device that he or she is working on. Often one problem will lead to another related issue which can require further repairs or replacement. If remodeling is done, where walls and ceilings are opened, wallpaper removed, homeowners may find some concealed issues that will also have to be addressed during the remodel. Because the home inspector is a generalist performing non-invasive evaluation, it is not possible to inspect entire systems within a home; this policy of having further evaluation further protects the client.

• 🔍 Due Diligence

1. For any element or condition requiring attention, quotes should be obtained prior to closing from qualified specialists or contractors to determine actual repair/replacement costs. Any cost estimates provided, whether oral or written, represent only an approximation of possible costs. Also, any cost estimates do not reflect all possible remedial needs or costs for the property; latent concerns or consequential damage may exist.
2. If there are items within this report that require re-inspection, you are encouraged to have me communicate directly with those hired to make the corrections to ensure that recommendations are understood.
3. Any suggestions of how something might be corrected is done as a courtesy and is based on my experience. It should not be construed to mean these suggestions are the only way to make repairs, the best way to make repairs, or even the wholly correct way to make repairs. Other factors not seen at the time of inspection can result in other requirements, etc. The qualified parties hired to make the repairs should be relied upon for their solutions as they will be the ones liable for them and should be in the best position to determine the best course of action. There are many things that can be done to improve safety and living conditions within any home. While many of these issues come to light in the course of the standard home inspection there are likely to be other things that can be done to improve the home. Additional information can be found at: Center for Healthy Living

• 🔍 Due Diligence

In the report there may be instances where specific building codes, other standards and manufacturer's instructions may be referenced. This in no way should be construed to mean this inspection is a code compliance inspection or that all manufacturer's instructions are known or checked. These instances are only provided as a courtesy in assisting with specific instances. There may be other exceptions to these examples that are also applicable and a full evaluation by the appropriate trade is recommended.

• 🔍 Due Diligence

For more information regarding codes and permits in your area or if you have future building projects planned, consult with your local municipality first.

• City of Columbus Building and Zoning
• Franklin County Building Permits
• Delaware County Department of Building Safety
• Union County Building Department
• Licking County Building Code Department
• Fairfield County Building Department
• Pickaway County Building Department
• Knox County Engineers Office
• Marion County Engineers Office
• 🔍 Due Diligence 📌 Informational

In the event that required repairs or planned projects require digging the ground soil, it is necessary to dial 8-1-1 beforehand in order to have buried services marked for avoidance. For more information, visit here.

• 🔺 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence

Determining the location of property boundary lines is beyond the scope of a Standard Home Inspection and can typically only be determined by a licensed surveyor.

• 🔍 Due Diligence

During this inspection, a thermal imaging camera was used superficially to check walls and ceilings for thermal anomalies and also to check specific appliances for verification of some degree of function. Thermal imaging cameras use the infrared light spectrum to build a picture of the house based on surface temperatures. Experienced thermographers look for clues in these thermal images that could lead us to find concealed water leaks or missing air or thermal barriers. In older homes, incomplete air and thermal barriers are so common, we will only report on items that look significantly deficient and are worthy of correction. In modern construction if could result in finding areas of missing insulation, weather-stripping and other deficiencies the builder would still be responsible for. This limited service is included in the inspection and should not be construed to be a complete thermal mapping of the house. The use of an infrared camera is well beyond the minimum standards for a home inspection, but I offer this service because I know it can provide valuable information that cannot be gained in other ways. Relevant thermal images will be included in the report. Even though sometimes the images will have what looks like specific temperatures displayed, the pictures should ONLY be seen as being "qualitative" and not "quantitative." (In other words the numbers do not mean anything and should not be interpreted that way.)

• 📌 Informational

The Standard Home Inspection does not attempt to identify whether the type of mold or what looks like mold seen on the premises are of types considered to have adverse health affects. Concerns regarding the toxicity of mold is deferred to qualified Industrial hygienists who should be contacted regarding any concerns that you might have about mold found on the property. Please see the information below regarding mold from the EPA.

Ten Things You Should Know About Mold (from the EPA):

1. Potential health effects and symptoms associated with mold exposures include allergic reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints.
2. There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.
3. If mold is a problem in your home or school, you must clean up the mold and eliminate sources of moisture.
4. Fix the source of the water problem or leak to prevent mold growth.
5. Reduce indoor humidity (to 30-60% ) to decrease mold growth by: venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating sources to the outside; using air conditioners and de-humidifiers; increasing ventilation; and using exhaust fans whenever cooking, dish-washing, and cleaning.
6. Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth.
7. Clean mold off hard surfaces with water and detergent, and dry completely. Absorbent materials such as ceiling tiles, that are moldy, may need to be replaced.
8. Prevent condensation: Reduce the potential for condensation on cold surfaces (i.e., windows, piping, exterior walls, roof, or floors) by adding insulation.
9. In areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem, do not install carpeting (i.e., by drinking fountains, by classroom sinks, or on concrete floors with leaks or frequent condensation).
10. Molds can be found almost anywhere; they can grow on virtually any substance, providing moisture is present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods.

Mold information from the EPA and MOLD,

The following link is a guide from the EPA, as provided by The Ohio State University: A Brief Guide.

• 🔺 Safety 🍃 Energy Efficiency and/or IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence

Radon is a colorless and odorless gas that comes from the soil. The gas can accumulate in the air we breathe. Exposure to radon over a long period of time can lead to lung cancer. More Information About Radon

• 🔺 Safety 🍃 Energy Efficiency and/or IAQ 📌 Informational

The approximate square footage listed here is listed as a courtesy and is based off of public records and disclosure. An evaluation of square footage of the buildings and property lines is beyond the scope of this inspection.

• 🔍 Due Diligence

As this is a newer construction building, there is a chance that building plans, permits, drainage plans, construction records, a list of sub-contractors and warranty information may be available. I recommend trying to obtain and keep this information for your records and for future re-sale. Because this is a new home build inspection, things are subject to change by the builder and some things may not be finished to the standard requested. Consult with the builder if there are concerns about, plan changes, cosmetics or quality of materials, etc.

• 🔍 Due Diligence

This home was occupied at the time of the inspection. Inspection of occupied homes presents some challenges as occupant belongings can obstruct visual inspection of and access to parts of the building. We do our best during inspection to work around belongings to discover as much as possible about the house without moving or damaging personal property, however, the presence of personal items does limit the inspection.

• 📌 Informational

This report does not include evaluation of any soils or geological conditions/concerns. Construction on certain soils, particularly expansive clays, fill soils, hillside and waterfront areas, necessitate special design consideration. Evaluation of these factors, or the need for them, is beyond the scope of this inspection. Pertinent information should be obtained from local officials and/or a qualified specialists, particularly if any concerns are detected or if the home is in a detrimental soils area.

• 🔍 Due Diligence

Sometimes the surface around the home appears to slope properly but fill has been added on top of surfaces that actually slope toward the foundation. While this cannot be observed at the time of an inspection, moisture conditions in the interior of the basement may be related to this type of improper drainage. Underlying soils below the finish surface (grass etc) should slope properly away from the home and be relatively impermeable.

• 🔍 Due Diligence

Properties that border bodies of water can come with governmental/jurisdictional restrictions that control use of these areas. I recommend that you familiarize yourself with any such regulations related to this property.

• 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence

This property resides within or near a wooded area. It is typical to have decaying organic debris like leaves, tree limbs, brush, etc. accumulate. Keeping this debris cleared away from the immediate area of the home is recommended. The decaying wood in particular is a source of food and habitat for wood destroying organisms.

• 🔧 Maintenance 👁‍🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDI

Properties often have easements and/or covenants associated with them. This is outside the scope of this inspection and therefore excluded.. I recommend discussing any such concerns with the homeowner. Typical concerns include, but are not limited to: utility easements, height restrictions, maintenance of underground drainage, etc. No determination is made as to whether this property is part of a homeowner association.

• 🔍 Due Diligence

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All vegetation should be routinely maintained so as not to allow contact with the structure. This is considered routine maintenance that any building owner should be vigilant about to prevent physical damage to the building, lower the risk of water intrusion to the building, lower the risk of rodents entering the building and to lower the risk of wood destroying insects affecting the building.

• 🔍 Due Diligence 🔧 Maintenance

Inspection of any existing buried drainlines are outside the scope of this home inspection. Tightline drains(which downspouts connect to), and/or footing drains(typically connected to storm drains or sump pumps) are closed systems requiring camera scopes to inspect. I recommend having a qualified professional evaluate and make repairs if necessary.

• 🔍 Due Diligence

The point of termination for the tight-line drains was not determined. I recommend verification that it is properly terminated and if not, that it be terminated to an approved locations. I recommend evaluation/repairs as deemed necessary by a qualified party.

• 🔍 Due Diligence

Walkways on the property can have liability concerns pertinent to the homeowner. Maintenance of these walkways is important and defects such as trip hazards and the presence of snow/ice can lead to increased liability if persons are injured.

•  Maintenance 👁‍🗨 Monitor🔍 Due Diligence

A Standard Home Inspection does not include evaluation of elements such as site lighting, irrigation systems, barbecues, sheds, outbuildings, fencing, privacy walls, planters, ponds, landscaping retaining structures, retaining walls, spas and/or recreational elements on the site, unless otherwise stated in writing. Comments made are a courtesy, whether done verbally or included in the written report.

• 🔍 Due Diligence

HardiePlank Siding

HardiePlank siding is a fiber-cement type siding that consists of fibrous materials with a cement component and silica sand/fibers that are compressed together with interior resins that have an embossed outside textured or smooth appearance. HardiePlank contains no asbestos, fiberglass or formaldehyde. This material is a relatively newly engineered product. It has no long term track record to match the 30 year warranty that comes with it, but it has received good reviews in the trades regarding it's stability and durability if properly applied and maintained. It has also become a very popular siding alternative to wood siding due to its durability, price and low maintenance characteristics.

There are some specific requirements for installation and protection. HardiePlank can be blind-nailed or face nailed at the builders discretion but is recommended to be face nailed in high wind areas. HardiePlank cannot be blind nailed with 24" oc framing. Nails should be corrosion resistant and caulked, and double nailed if a penetration of the siding skin occurs while nailing. Butt ends of material should be in moderate contact with minimal gapping and are currently not recommended to be caulked. Previously, up until Oct 2008, the butt joints were recommended to be either butted together or gapped a maximum of 1/8” and caulked. Currently the joints should have “joint flashing” behind, which can consist of a number of different materials such as Mylar, felt, metal or strip/gap backing. At this time Hardie does not specify what the joint backing material requirements are. All window, door and trim connections should be caulked as with standard building practice. It can be hand nailed or compressor nailed, but staples should not be used. Full installation instructions are noted with a link below.

Penetrations such as hose bibs and holes 1 1⁄2” or larger, such as dryer vents, furnace vents, electrical and light fixture boxes should have a flashed block of trim around point of penetration. Smaller piping does not require blocking but should be well caulked.

HardiePlank and HardiePanel need to be kept painted. This is a fiber cement material that is porous and will absorb moisture if not kept sealed, which can cause flaking, mold and deterioration. Any caulking, primer or paint used is required to be 100% latex acrylic material. HardiePlank should not be stained.

There have been numerous difficulties with different types of applied products that are engineered, such as Louisiana-Pacific siding, Masonite Omni-Board, pressboard panel type siding as opposed to natural materials such as cedar siding. HardiePlank siding, having limited long term history, is difficult to comment on in regard to its expected life span and aging characteristics, but has been faring very well in comparison.

HardiePlank siding does have a “30-Year Limited Transferable Warranty”, but "transferable", as stated in the fine print of this materials contract, includes transference only from the original material buyer, meaning the builder, to the first purchaser and then to the second purchaser. Subsequent buyers/owners are not covered by this warranty. Calling this a 30-year transferable warranty seems optimistic since upon sale of the structure to a third buyer and beyond, there is no warranty protection. Few structures are owned for 30 years by just two individuals.

Further information:

James Hardie Building Products at 1-800-426-4051 - www.jameshardie.com

HardiePlank installation instructions http://www.jameshardie.com/d2w/installation/hardieplank-hz10-us-en.pdf

Hardie Best Practices https://www.jameshardiepros.com/Install-and-Tech-Docs/BrowseTechDocs?doctype=Best%20Practice%20Guide

To see a prescriptive guide for residential wood deck construction click this link. For general deck maintenance tips, visit this link.

• 🔧 Maintenance 👁‍🗨 Monitor

This house is built on a concrete block foundation, often referred to in the trades as Concrete Masonry Unit (CMU). These foundations are common in many parts of the country and, depending on how they are installed, they can perform similar to poured concrete foundations. Some, especially older, CMU foundations are not reinforced, which makes them prone to seismic damage or movement. Reinforcement is impossible to verify during inspection. Once they are complete, these foundations are difficult to retrofit and it should be assumed that this foundation is not up to modern seismic standards. These foundations are also difficult to water proof as they are porous and not as resistant to water as a poured concrete foundation.

• 🔍 Due Diligence 📌 Informational

It is outside the scope of a Standard Home Inspection to determine the load capabilities of structural systems.  When heavy objects are to be located within the home (like pianos, waterbeds, etc) care must be taken, and determinations made as to the load capabilities of the floors where heavy objects are to be located. It is also beyond the scope of a Home Inspection to determine load-bearing walls. Comments made written or verbally by the inspector are as a convenience and must not be construed as a guarantee in any way. If you wish to determine load-bearing walls or other structural considerations, I urge you to consult with a qualified structural engineer.

• 🔍 Due Diligence 📌 Informational

Many criteria are used to "guesstimate" the age of the roof. Listing information, age of home, auditor information, google map drive-by pictures, disclosure statements, deterioration or lack thereof, of pipe flashings, exposure, date stamps on pipe flashings, roof type and color, and experience. One or more of these indicators are used to make this judgment--it is NOT absolute and should not be taken as such.

• 🔍 Due Diligence 📌 Informational

Roof flashings are used to keep a roofing system water proof where the roofing material starts, stops, changes direction or is penetrated. During inspection, we look for standard flashing techniques that could be considered normal or standard in our region. Damaged, incomplete or non-standard flashings can be a sign of an older or less reliable roofing system and may require repair. Any non-standard flashings noted during inspection will be reported on below if found.

It is not always possible to determine if gutters leak/overflow, even it is raining during the home inspection. Monitoring the gutters for leaks when it is raining is recommended. Leaking/overflowing gutters should be repaired to prevent damage to roof/fascia structures. Properly functioning gutters, downspouts, and splash blocks or drain piping are critical to protect the foundation from moisture intrusion. Gutters should be cleaned as needed and leaky joints sealed.

• 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence 🐞 WDI 👁‍🗨 Monitor

A Note on Ventilation: Determining adequacy of vaulted ceiling ventilation is beyond the scope of the Standard Home Inspection. Determination of venting can be indicated by the presence of roof, ridge and soffit vents, but no determination can be made as to the effectiveness of such systems. Hidden damage in vaulted ceilings due to leaks and condensation from poor venting warrant regular monitoring of spaces below these roof systems. All signs of staining should be checked for active moisture by moisture meter.

• 🔍 Due Diligence 👁‍🗨 Monitor

A Note on Insulation: Determination of insulation is limited to those areas visible during the inspection. The insulation in exterior walls, vaulted ceilings, and inaccessible portions of attics can not be readily assessed. In addition, vapor barriers in finished areas are beyond the scope of a home inspection. Modern standards recommended a minimum of R-30 in vaulted ceilings. During the next re-roofing, I recommend consulting with an insulation contractor to further evaluate this configuration and make repairs if recommended.

• 🔍 Due Diligence

A Note on Construction: Often times vaulted ceiling structural components are obscured by fixed surfaces such as drywall. For this reason, evaluation of these areas are limited and can not be adequately assessed. It is excluded from the inspection and this report.

• 🔍 Due Diligence

Attic and roof cavity ventilation is a frequently-misunderstood element of residential construction. All roof cavities are required to have ventilation. The general default standard is 1 to 150 of the attic area and ideally, this comes from at least 60% lower roof cavity ventilation and 40% upper, but this is a wild over-simplifications of the subject. As a good guiding principle the most important elements for healthy attic spaces, which are traditionally insulated and ventilated are:

1. Make sure the ceiling between the living space and the attic is airtight
2. Ventilate consistently across the whole lower part of the roof cavity with low, intake soffit venting
3. Upper roof cavity venting is less important and if over-installed can exacerbate air migration into the attic from the living space.
4. Avoid power ventilators which can depressurize the attic and exacerbate air migration from the house into the attic.

For more information, please see: Link

There is no ramp or safe way to access the attic space. Crawling through insulation and on top of framing risks damaging thermal barriers and ceiling finishes and is not a safe way to access an attic. This limited inspection of this space.

This report provides an opinion of the general condition of the roof system based on a visual inspection of representative areas. The inspector does not offer a guarantee as to whether the roof leaks or is subject to future leakage. If it is dry, has been dry for a long time, or is not the rainy season the possibility of leaks not showing up at the time of inspection is not unusual. Water stains on ceilings, walls, and soffits that tested dry at the time of inspection may test elevated for moisture under other conditions or at another time. Specific notation of leakage or stains does not preclude additional areas of leakage and/or hidden damage. Monitor attic for any changes; ongoing or questionable situations should be assessed and corrected. Leakage can lead to organic growth(mold-like substances). Due to typical design/accessibility constraints (insulation, storage, etc.), evaluation of attic areas, including structural components, is usually limited. Any specifically noted limitations/obstructions are intended to highlight these limitations beyond the norm. A complete check of the attic should be made when non-permanent limitations are resolved.

• 🔧 Maintenance 👁‍🗨 Monitor🔍 Due Diligence

The gas fireplace operated.

It is impossible for a home inspection to determine with any degree of certainty whether the flue is free of defects. In accordance with recommendations made by the National Fire Prevention Association (NFPA) to have all chimneys inspected before buying a home, you should have a Level II inspection of the chimney flue. The typical fireplace inspection by a home inspector is not a Level II inspection.

• 🔺 Safety 🔧 Maintenance🔍 Due Diligence

Some gas line sections were not accessible or were obscured and therefore not able to be evaluated for leaks or other concerns. These areas are excluded from this report.

• 🔺 Safety 🔧Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence

This house has a gas forced air furnace. A critical component to all combustion equipment is the heat exchanger. This is the welded clam-shell piece of metal inside the furnace that contains the products of combustion so that moisture, carbon monoxide and other products of combustion do not mix with interior air and get safely vented to the exterior. Heat exchangers on modern furnaces have an average life expectancy of 15-20 years. Unfortunately, heat exchangers are concealed inside of heating equipment; they are not visible and specifically excluded from a home inspection.

This shows the data plate from the furnace

Furnace efficiencies are reflected in percentages called AFUE—annual fuel utilization efficiency. AFUE measures a furnace’s efficiency in converting fuel to energy. This is calculated by dividing the unit's energy output by its energy input. A modern standard efficiency furnace provides 80% annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE). In this type of furnace, 20% of the energy produced by natural gas is expelled as exhaust. High efficiency furnaces offer 90% or more AFUE. These days, 95% AFUE is a common rating among new gas-powered furnaces.

• 🍃 Energy Efficiency and/or IAQ 📌 Informational

The following list is a minimum set of requirements to be expected of heat pump or air conditioning servicing. I provide these as a courtesy to show they types of check-ups that should be expected from a professional servicing.

• Check compressor efficiency
• Check refrigerant level
• Clean the condenser coil
• Change or clean air filters
• Inspect contactors and wiring
• Inspect drive-sheaves, pulleys and belts
• Check and adjust for proper air flow
• Clean the blower motor as needed
• Lubricate all motors and shaft bearings
• Check, calibrate and program the thermostats and be sure the thermostat has adequate batteries as needed
• Check unit smoke detector, clean filter if applicable
• Check safety disconnect, laser-temp -- check across contacts

This shows the data plate from the exterior compressor.

The heating and cooling system is controlled with a Nest thermostat. These are digital and wifi-based thermostats. I recommend inquiring with the seller about access to this thermostat so that controls and user account access can be changed for the new owner. For information about setting up and operating this thermostat, visit here.

• 🔍 Due Diligence 📌 Informational

The heating and cooling system has disposable air filters installed. These should be checked monthly; 1" filters can last 1-3 months generally, while larger filters generally can go 3-6 months before needing changed to ensure proper air flow to the furnace. Be sure to install the filters with the arrows pointing in the same direction as the air flow towards the blower compartment. Air filters have a MERV rating that corresponds to the filter's effectiveness in filtration. I recommend you consider your and/or other occupants' needs, allergies, pets, etc. when choosing which MERV rating best fits your system's air filter.

• 🔺 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence 👁‍🗨 Monitor🍃 Energy Efficiency and/or IAQ

Filter Location

The estimated filter size listed here is only an approximation based on one or more of the following: service records(if present), owner's manual(if present), current installed filter, etc. This estimate is by no means a guarantee. Be certain to consult with the homeowners and/or manufacturer for proper filter size. For more information about furnace filters, visit here.

• 🔍 Due Diligence 🍃 Energy Efficiency and/or IAQ

The heating and cooling is evaluated for basic function only. This inspection is not technically exhaustive. The inspection of ducts is naturally limited to observable areas, thus large areas of ducts cannot be seen. Floor registers are often covered or obscured by furniture or stored items, and such areas are therefore excluded from evaluation and the inspection report. Window air conditioners and portable heating and cooling systems are not included in the scope of a standard home inspection. Thermostat functionality is not tested, other than to determine operation of the HVAC units.

• 🔍 Due Diligence 📌 Informational

The electrical service is the set of wires that run from the street or power pole to the main breaker panel or fuse box. In this building the service runs underground. Evaluation of the underground portion of these systems is limited to the portions that show above ground.

• 🔺 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence

Amperage is determined by a variety of factors, including the panel label, wire size and service disconnect size. Voltages are more difficult to report, as there can be normal fluctuations of voltages of plus or minus a few volts. Electrical service voltages supplied to buildings can fluctuate a few volts between legs but anything more than 10 volts should probably be further evaluated by a qualified electrician. 120/240 volts is the "nominal" voltage supplied to this building.

• 🔍 Due Diligence

Photo of Legend

No surge protection was noted at the electrical equipment today. Voltage surges can be a costly example of the power interference that occurs in Buildings every day. This momentary rise in voltage can start inside or outside a Building and damage sensitive electronic equipment such as computer, Building entertainment center, treadmills, and all the other --often expensive -- equipment found in most Buildings today.

• Conventional surge protectors in the home cannot protect against large surges from lightning and it is still considered best practice to unplug expensive appliances during a lightning storm.
• Whole Building surge arresters should be installed at the Building's electrical service panel by professional, licensed electrical contractors. There are dozens of different makes, models and styles of surge protectors on the market, which vary greatly in both price and quality. The type and size of the service panel, how full the panel is, as well as the investment in appliances and electronic devices that need to be protected all play a role in determining which surge protector should be installed. Your service professional, after inspecting the Building and service panel, will make the recommendation as to the appropriate product to be installed.
• Please note that the 2020 edition of the National Electrical Code requires type 1 or type 2 surge protection on new or renovated houses. Though not adopted yet this code change reflects the growing complexity of electric appliances in our houses and the growing risk of damage to electrical equipment due to internal or external electrical surges
• For more information. visit here.
• 🔺 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence

During a home or property inspection, every effort is made to inspect the visible components of the electrical system grounding and bonding.

• The grounding system is critical for safely discharging electrical surges, especially in the case of lightning strikes. Electrical system grounding creates a pathway to shunt static charges (that would otherwise build up on the metallic systems in the building) to earth, and to provide a pathway to trip a breaker in the event that these bonded metallic components became energized.
• All metallic systems in the building are required to be "bonded" (connected) to the the building's electrical grounding system. Bonding creates a pathway to shunt static charges (that would otherwise build up on the metallic systems in the building) to earth, and to provide a pathway to trip a breaker in the event that these bonded metallic components became energized
• There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of the grounding or bonding system as much of the system is not visible and there are not practical tests one can perform in the way we can test a furnace or a plumbing fixture. However, there are many things that can lead me to recommend further evaluation of the grounding system by a licensed electrical contractor and they will be documented in the observations below if discovered.
• 🔺 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence

A UFER ground connection was noted for the electrical grounding system. These are required and standard on newer construction houses. These grounds connect the electrical system to Rebar in the house foundation and make a reliable path to the earth for "earthing" or grounding the electrical system.

The 2009 edition of NFPA 54, National Fuel Gas Code, includes new requirements for bonding CSST gas piping systems to the grounding conductor of the building's electrical system, to reduce the possibility of damage by lightning strikes or electrical surges by reducing the electrical potential between metallic objects and building systems, including gas distribution. Regardless of whether it is "black" or "yellow" CSST, they both require bonding. Black CSST has a built-in bonding mesh that allows it to be bonded per the same requirements of bonding of rigid gas piping systems. Yellow CSST has "special" requirements for bonding and it is often improperly bonded or not bonded at all. This particular system appears to be bonded per current requirements.

• 🔺 Safety 📌 Informational

Current regulations require an “Inter-system Bonding Terminal” to be installed as a place for the low voltage utilities to run their ground wires to. It will be attached to a #6 minimum copper ground wire run to the location from the service equipment. Such a terminal was found during inspection.

• 🔺 Safety 📌 Informational

Every effort is made to test each electric receptacle in the building, however stored items may obscure or prevent testing in some areas; such areas are excluded from this report. At minimum, a representative sample of the receptacles in the building will be tested, according to InterNACHI's Standards of Practice.

• 🔍 Due Diligence

Replacing defective electrical receptacles periodically is a typical maintenance item of home ownership. In the course of your home ownership, here are a few considerations if you find yourself in need of replacing or adding electric receptacles to the house. All such repairs and additions should be performed by a qualified electrician.

• Any receptacle replaced in a home must be provided with AFCI protection when the receptacle is being replaced in circuits that require AFCI protection. This can be accomplished at the receptacle itself, at a point downstream of the receptacle or at the panel where the circuit originates. Whenever possible protecting the entire circuit is considered best practice, utilizing an AFCI circuit breaker in the electric panel(s). For more information, visit here.
• Any receptacle that is replaced in a home is required to be replaced with a Tamper Resistant Type Receptacle. There are a few exceptions to this requirement. For more information, visit here.
• Any receptacle that is replaced in a damp or wet location is required to be replaced with a Weather Resistant Type Receptacle. For more information, visit here.
• 🔺 Safety 🔧Maintenance ➕Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence

The National Electrical Code (NEC) is revised every three years and outlines the minimum requirements for safe electrical installation. Many older homes may not have an adequate electrical system to meet the electrical demands of today. If you're renovating your home, make sure to have the following electrical safety devices installed to maintain an electrically safe home.

GFCI Information: A ground fault is a conducting connection (whether intentional or accidental) between any electric conductor and any conducting material that is grounded or that may become grounded. Electricity always wants to find a path to the ground. In a ground fault, electricity has found a path to ground, but it is a path the electricity was never intended to be on, such as through a person’s body. The function of the GFCI is to protect people from the deadly effects of electric shock that could occur if parts of an electrical appliance or tool become energized due to a ground fault.

• Currently all 125-volt & 250-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed in the following locations shall have ground-fault circuit interrupter protection: bathrooms, garages, detached non-habitable buildings, outdoors, crawl spaces, unfinished or finished basements, kitchen countertop receptacles, within 6 feet of all sinks, boathouses, within 6 feet of a tub or shower, laundry areas, dishwasher branch circuit, crawl space lighting outlets. Also exterior HVAC appliances operating under 60 amps require GFCI protection. According to the NEC (National Electric Code): "Older homes are statistically more vulnerable to shocks related to ungrounded circuits. Extra protection for older homes is provided by replacement of ungrounded wiring and installation of GFCI protection.

AFCI Information: An arc fault is an unintended arc created by current flowing through an unplanned path. Arcing creates high intensity heating at the point of the arc resulting in burning particles that may easily ignite surrounding material, such as wood framing or insulation. The function of the AFCI is to protect the branch circuit wiring from dangerous arcing faults that could initiate an electrical fire.

• Currently all 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed in the following locations shall have Arc-fault circuit-interrupter protection: kitchens, family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, laundry areas, or similar rooms or areas.

Newer homes are likely to already have at least some GFCI and AFCI protection. I recommend upgrading GFCI and AFCI devices for better protection, especially in cases where the home is older and likely does not meet modern standards, and maintaining current devices in newer homes in the event such devices need replaced.

• 🔺 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁‍🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade🔍 Due Diligence

Lights that are switched from multiple locations (like 3-way and 4-way switches) can sometimes be wired improperly so that if one of the switches is in the wrong position the lights will not work from the other location. This miswiring of switches is often not found during the course of a Standard Home Inspection due to not testing the circuit with all possible combination of options. When this condition is discovered, repairs are usually quite simple when performed by a qualified electrician.

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The types of light bulbs installed in a home can have economic and physiological impact; consider reading the following information before purchasing new light bulbs.

• Information on light bulb energy efficiency
• Information regarding lighting quality
• Information about the physiological effects of lighting
• 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade🍃 Energy Efficiency and/or IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence 📌 Informational

Can lights, whether modern air-tight type cans or older non-insulation contact cans, can be a major contributor to heat loss and air movement into roof structures. This is difficult to determine during the course of a home inspection but if moisture issues are apparent or become apparent in the roof structure, these lights should be considered one possible cause of the issue. Blower door tests can be performed to determine how well sealed can lights are. Having a qualified professional properly seal and insulate these areas if generally a good consideration.

• 🔧 Maintenance 🍃 Energy Efficiency and/or IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence

At the time of inspection smoke alarms are not tested. I recommend that prior to move-in, that all smoke alarms be tested according to manufacturer's recommendations and that their batteries be replaced. It is recommended that smoke alarms that are older than 5-7 years should be replaced by a qualified electrician if they are hard-wired; and replaced by the building owner/handy-person if they are battery operated.

• For optimum safety, hard-wired smoke alarms with backup batteries are recommended. Batteries should replaced at least once per year, I highly recommend replacing with 10yr batteries. At least one smoke alarm should be installed on each floor of the building. Alarms must be maintained free of dust and debris which can interfere with operation. Schedule regular maintenance and tests. The Consumer Products Safety Commission recommends checking these alarms every Spring & Fall time change. Tests should be performed according to manufacturer's instructions.
• Smoke alarm technology is evolving and current wisdom is going in the direction of recommending that only Photoelectric smoke alarms be installed in the building due to the nuisance tripping and other human factors involved with misuse and maintenance associated with Ionization type smoke alarms. It is not possible in the context of the building inspection to determine why types of alarms are installed in the building. You are encouraged to install and maintain any type of alarm in the building and you are encouraged to upgrade alarms to photoelectric type alarms. See the following link for a discussion of Ionization vs. Photoelectric Alarms: Photo-Electric Smoke Alarms
• After June 30, 2021 all smoke alarms will be required to meet the 9th (the 8th was never adopted) edition of UL 217. These alarms are designed to reduce issues with previous versions and will be more responsive to multiple kinds of fire scenarios as well as address nuisance tripping issues of previous versions.
• In anticipation of the adoption of the 8th edition of UL 217, Kidde produced a dual sensor alarm that is purported to meet those standards, but given those standards were never adopted, they may or may not be an improvement over just stand alone photo-electric type alarms.
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During the home inspection, I try and test a representative sample of the smoke alarms by using the test button on the alarms. This is NOT an accurate test of the sensor just a test to see if the unit is powered. For reliability, fire marshals recommended updating smoke alarms every 10 years and changing batteries bi-annually. The latest data indicate that we should be using photoelectric technology in our smoke alarms for improved fire detection and to reduce problems with false alarms which can lead to disabling of this important safety system. Unfortunately, the alarms have to be removed to determine if they are photo-electric or ionization types. It is surprisingly complex to accurately test a smoke alarm system and determine the reliability, age, and type of sensor technology used, especially as many homes can have half a dozen or more alarms throughout the house. A complete evaluation of smoke alarms is beyond the scope of this inspection. For optimal fire safety, I recommend taking control of these important safety devices and learning about how to service and maintain your smoke alarm system to keep the building occupants safe. For more information, please read this link. For more information, please read this link.

At the time of inspection Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors are not tested. Carbon monoxide poisoning is the second most common cause of non-medicinal poisonings death. I recommend that prior to move-in, that all Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors be tested and have their batteries replaced. It is recommended that Carbon Monoxide detectors that are older than 5 years should be replaced by a qualified electrician if they are hard-wired; and replaced by the homeowner/handy-person if they are battery operated. These devices are currently required to be maintained by the tenant/homeowner according to the manufacturer's recommendations/instructions and are required in all new homes containing fossil-fuel burning appliance.

• For optimum safety, Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors are required in the immediate vicinity of bedrooms and on each floor level of the home and inside of any sleeping room if there is a gas appliance in the room. "Immediate vicinity" is not defined but most manufacturers recommend they be installed between 5 and 20 feet of sleeping rooms. Alarm/detectors must be maintained free of dust and debris which can interfere with operation. They should be installed per manufacturer's instructions. While it is primarily fuel burning appliances the produce carbon monoxide, CO is also produced from electric appliances like toasters and ranges (especially ovens on self clean cycle).
• Please be aware that residential Carbon Monoxide detectors are cumulative and are designed to not sound with low levels of carbon monoxide. Some people are more susceptible than others to low levels of carbon monoxide and I consider it prudent to familiarize yourself with the symptoms/warning signs of Carbon Monoxide. Detectors that meet the UL-2034 requirements for detectors installed in residential construction are not allowed to sound at continuous CO levels up to 30 ppm, 70 ppm for 4 hours, 150 ppm for up to 50 minutes and 400 ppm for up to 15 minutes.
• Combination type alarms can be problematic even while meeting "legal requirements" for installation. Carbon Monoxide detectors in conjunction with Ionization type smoke detectors is problematic due to the poor ion technology (see links under smoke alarms previous to this section). The devices also can have different life spans. For best protection, combination type alarms should not be used, even though this is a standard recommendation of manufacturers. The International Association of Fire Fighters (IAFF) specifically recommends against installing combination alarms. Combination type alarms are required to be UL-217 and UL-2034 listed.
• 🔺 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence

A Ring doorbell was installed at this property. These are excluded from evaluation, other than to test for basic functionality (i.e. whether the device chimes or not). These are wifi-based thermostats, typically accompanied by a smart phone app. I recommend inquiring with the seller about access to this device and its app so that controls and user account access can be changed for the new owner. For information about setting up and operating this device, visit here.

• 🔍 Due Diligence 📌 Informational

GENERAL ELECTRICAL SAFETY WARNING: Even if the electricity has been turned off at the main disconnect, sections of the electrical system prior to the main breaker are still charged with electricity and can be lethal if contacted. All changes made to the electrical system should be performed by a qualified electrician.

• 🔺 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence

The following items are not included in this inspection: generator systems, surge suppressors, inaccessible or concealed wiring; underground utilities and systems; low voltage lighting or lighting on timers or sensors. Note that the inspector does not determine the adequacy of grounding or bonding, does not determine if this system has an adequate capacity for the client's specific needs, nor determine if this system has any reserve capacity for additions or expansion. The inspector does not operate circuit breakers as part of the inspection, install or change light bulbs, nor determine the operability of every wall switch or outlet. Inspectors do not remove outlet covers and are unable to determine the type of wiring inside walls or in concealed spaces. Electrical components such as wiring, outlets, wall switches, fixtures, etc. are often obscured by furniture and/or stored items and therefore unable to be tested. These areas are excluded from this report. Any comments made regarding these items are as a courtesy only.

Note: National safety standards require electrical panels to be weatherproof, readily accessible, and have a minimum of thirty-six inches of clear space in front of them for service. Also, they should have a main disconnect, and each circuit within the panel should be clearly labeled. Industry standards only require us to test a representative number of accessible switches, receptacles, and light fixtures. However, we attempt to test every one that is unobstructed, but if a residence is furnished we will obviously not be able to test each one.

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This shows the water pressure tested during inspection. Generally, "normal water pressure," should be between 30-80 PSI, though pressures near or below 30 can result in poor functional flow to fixtures. Water pressures in excess of 80 PSI risk damaging supply piping components and should be controlled with a pressure reducing valve.

This shows the location of the main water shut off located in the basement

Every building has the potential for catastrophic plumbing leaks. In the event one occurs when you are not home or unable to shut the water off quickly, "auto-shut off" devices exist now to assist in preventing major damages due to water leaks. For more information and some recommendations, visit here.

• ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence

This building has PEX tubing used for supply piping. Crimp ring connections on PEX pipe have very specific installation guidelines and most of these connections will not be visible at the time of inspection (just like any other type of pipe fitting). It is beyond the scope of this inspection to evaluate a significant number of these connections.. Any leaking noted at fittings should result in more careful inspection of all of the plumbing system by a licensed plumber that is experienced in the installation of these types of connections

It is it is not likely that sufficient water will be used during the course of the inspection that would duplicate actual use of the drainage systems of the home under all scenarios. Clogged drains are quite common in homes and the interior condition of drains can not typically be determined or predicted. An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. A sewer scope inspection is recommended for any home purchase, especially for older homes, to further evaluate the sewer line and the below ground connections between the house and the municipal sewer line. Sewer scopes are done using video cameras and can reveal the materials, condition and reliability of the sewer line.

• 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence

I test plumbing fixtures throughout the home by operating stoppers or flushing mechanisms and observe the flow of water out of the fixture after it is filled. I make no determination as to whether drainage is, or will be, sufficient. This approach is true of all points of water use throughout the home and will not be repeated elsewhere except as pertains to any issues with those sinks, tubs, showers toilets etc. Floor drains are typically not tested, and verification of their function is advised. This can be done by homeowner/handyperson running a hose in them for a prolonged time or having them professionally scoped by a qualified plumber. The traps in these drains sometimes dry-out allowing sewer gases and vermin into the home. As a part of routine maintenance I recommend making sure drain trap has water in it and is properly covered.

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Under certain conditions, hydrogen gas may be produced in a hot water system that has not been used for two weeks or more. HYDROGEN GAS IS EXPLOSIVE. If the hot water system has not been used for two weeks or more, turn on all hot water faucets and let the water flow from each for several minutes. This will release any accumulated hydrogen gas. As the gas is flammable, do not smoke or use an open flame during this time. It is a good idea to keep this in mind when getting home from vacation /traveling. For more information, visit here.

• 🔺 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁‍🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence

This shows the data plate for this water heater.

A temperature and pressure relief valve (TPRV) is required on all water heaters to discharge any excessive pressure within the tank. A discharge pipe should be attached to the valve and directed to a safe location away from body contact. Newer installations must be directed to the building exterior or to an approved indoor drain receptor. Most manufacturers suggest that homeowners test these valves at least once a year by lifting the lever to ensure the valve discharges properly and also recommend inspection of these safety devices every three years. The picture here shows a typical TPRV. They may also be found on the side of the heater on some models. I do not test these valves due to the possibility that they may leak after testing. A leaking or inoperative TPRV should be replaced immediately by a licensed plumber.

Due to inconsistencies between both UPC and IPC Plumbing codes, and water heater manufacturer's instructions, and TPRV manufacturer instructions, it is not actually possible to install the drain from the Water Heater TPRV "properly." There are conflicts with distance of termination to the floor/ground, types of pipes approved, and diameters of pipes approved. Additional confusion is added when jurisdictional inspectors approve installations/materials specifically not allowed by both codes and manufacturers. My recommendations will vary depending on the installation and will be included in the applicable narratives below.

Most codes defer to manufacturer instructions and I favor those recommendations. The yellow tag on the valve states clearly the termination should be 6" above the floor which is more consistent with the UPC code requirements.

There are competing concerns related to having plenty of hot water. On the one hand we want to prevent scalding. On the other hand it is a good idea to keep water hot enough to prevent water-borne bacteria from flourishing. It is actually quite complicated to accomplish both goals with storage-tank type water heaters.

• Addressing one of the safety concerns can actually make the other concern worse. Temperature below 120 degrees Fahrenheit is considered ideal for the growth of harmful bacteria inside the tank--such as Legionella. Keeping the tank temperature between 135 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit can greatly reduce the risk of growing bacteria in the tank but is not a guarantee. For example, Legionella Bacteria can survive extreme hot water and chemical treatment by forming a parasitic relationship with amoebae that are not affected by these treatments. While rare, it is still considered prudent, given the current state of knowledge, to maintain the tank water temperature between 135 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit to at least provide some degree of protection.
• While "generally-healthy-people" are fairly resistant to infection, some patient populations (organ transplants, diabetes, cancers, kidney disease etc), immunocompromised persons, heavy smokers, heavy drinkers, the elderly and infants can be expected to have higher death rates or incidence of more severe illness if the bacteria is present in sufficient numbers. Some authorities assert that an increase in incidence can be expected with an increased focus on conserving energy (lowering the thermostat on the water heater). The science around all of this is ongoing and new information should be anticipated.

Preventing scalding requires a multifaceted approach.

1. We must resort to good sense: • Never leave a child or the infirm alone while drawing water in a bathtub, and check the water temperature before putting your child or the infirm in the tub. • Test the water temperature before bathing or showering. • Turn the cold water on first, then add hot water until the temperature is comfortable. • Teach children to turn the cold water on first, and the hot water off first.
2. Provide a mechanical means (Thermostatic mixing valve) of lowering the temperature to below 120 degrees Fahrenheit at either the points of use or at the water heater itself to protect the whole house. Because these devices can fail, we must always keep #1 in mind.

For additional information on this issue please check out the links below:

• Legionella: Health Advisory
• Legionella
• Legionnaires' Disease

Thermostatic mixing valves:

• Thermostatic mixing valves located at the water heater are designed to reduce hot water temperatures in the tank to levels considered safe at points of use (sinks tubs etc). They can be adjusted and should be periodically checked to verify function. These valves are desirable so that tank temperatures can be maintained high enough to limit bacteria growth inside the water heater while at the same time providing water a safe temperatures where desired.
• 🔺 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence

This building has a sump pump installed. Sump pumps are generally installed as a means of collecting and discharging ground water that is entering a building's crawl space or basement. These are difficult systems to inspect during a one-time inspection as much depends on how critical the sump system is for keeping the space dry. Some systems are installed as prophylactic measures to provide a back-up in case of other drainage failures. Other systems can be critical to keeping a space dry. It is important when buying or selling a home to learn more about or provide more information about sump systems so owners can plan accordingly. During inspection we make an effort to see if the pump is working and evaluate the overall quality of the installation. There are additional measures to prevent water from accumulating in the event of equipment failure or power outage:

1. Install a back-up battery in case of a power outage
2. Water-powered back-up systems are a newer system that utilizes public water pressure, if available.
3. Have a back up pump in case of pump failure
4. Install a high water alarm to warn occupants of a failing sump system.

During inspection of the crawl space, every effort is made to inspect the entire space. Visual inspection of crawl spaces is difficult and limited as access is often restricted by pipes, ducts and sub-floor insulation as well as limited clearances.

Though kitchen appliances are generally beyond the scope of a home inspection, I did run the dishwasher as a courtesy. The appliance seemed to be performing normally. No signs of leakage or water damage were visible. It is always wise to monitor the dishwasher after moving in as testing during inspection is different than regular use.

This kitchen has an induction cooktop. These are unique cooking systems and are very energy efficient. The following is a short post from Wikipedia about induction cooktops.

Induction cooking uses induction heating to directly heat a cooking vessel, as opposed to using heat transfer from electrical coils or burning gas as with a traditional cooking stove. For nearly all models of induction cooktop, a cooking vessel must be made of a ferromagnetic metal, or placed on an interface disk which enables non-induction cookware to be used on induction cooking surfaces.

In an induction cooker, a coil of copper wire is placed underneath the cooking pot. An alternating electric current flows through the coil, which produces an oscillating magnetic field. This field induces an electric current in the pot. Current flowing in the metal pot produces resistive heating which heats the food. While the current is large, it is produced by a low voltage.

An induction cooker is faster and more energy-efficient than a traditional electric cooking surface. It allows instant control of cooking energy similar to gas burners. Other cooking methods use flames or red-hot heating elements; induction heating heats only the pot. Because the surface of the cook top is heated only by contact with the vessel, the possibility of burn injury is significantly less than with other methods. The induction effect does not directly heat the air around the vessel, resulting in further energy efficiencies. Cooling air is blown through the electronics but emerges only a little warmer than ambient temperature.

The magnetic properties of a steel vessel concentrate the induced current in a thin layer near its surface, which makes the heating effect stronger. In non-magnetic materials like aluminum, the magnetic field penetrates too far, and the induced current encounters little resistance in the metal.[1] At least one high-frequency "all metal" cooker is available, that works with lower efficiency on non-magnetic metal cookware.

Before closing, I recommend you consult with the current owners to obtain the following, if available:

• Samples, swatches or records of paint and/or colors used on the premises.
• Records of major improvement /repairs for: HVAC system(s), roofing repairs or replacements, electrical and plumbing work
• Owners manuals for all major appliances, thermostats, garage door opener(s), etc.
• Obtain keys, combination lock combos, garage door remotes, etc. (this is often done at closing)
• 🔍 Due Diligence