The Scope and Purpose of a Home Inspection
Purchasing property involves risk
The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a structure by providing a professional opinion about the overall condition of the structure. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we don’t know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend that you attend the inspection.
A home inspection is not an insurance policy
This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Home warranties can be purchased separately from insuring firms that provide this service.
A home inspection is visual and not destructive
The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing which will limit the scope of the inspection.
This is not an inspection for code compliance
This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction process structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, and this limits the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are augmented at least every three years for all of the varying disciplines. Municipalities can choose to adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their own timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done.
This is just our opinion
Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are the opinions of the home inspector. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have some differing opinions. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals.
The scope of this inspection
This inspection will include the following systems: exterior, roof, structure, drainage, foundation, attic, interior, plumbing, electrical and heating. The evaluation will be based on limited observations that are primarily visual and non-invasive. This inspection and report are not intended to be technically exhaustive.
Your expectations
The overall goal of a home inspection is to help ensure that your expectations are appropriate with the house you are proposing to buy. To this end we assist with discovery by showing and documenting observations during the home inspection. This should not be mistaken for a technically exhaustive inspection designed to uncover every defect with a building. Such inspections are available but they are generally cost-prohibitive to most homebuyers.
Your participation is requested
Your presence is requested during this inspection. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by a shared visual observation of the conditions of the property.
How to Read This Report
Getting the Information to You
This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a quick look at our "Summary Page” and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos and hot links to additional information.
The best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online, which will allow you to expand your learning about your house. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined – clicking on these will provide you with a link to additional information.
This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document.
Chapters and Sections
This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.
Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there may be no narrative observation comments in that section and it may simply say “tested,” or “inspected.”
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
- Major Concern:Repair items that may cost significant money to correct now or in the near future, or items that require immediate attention to prevent additional damage or eliminate safety hazards.
- Repair:Repair and maintenance items noted during inspection. Please note that some repair items can be expensive to correct such as re-finishing hardwood floors, but are considered simply repair items due to their cosmetic nature.
- Improve:Observations that are not necessarily defects, but which could be improved for safety, efficiency, or reliability reasons.
- Monitor:Items that should be watched to see if correction may be needed in the future.
- Due Diligence:Observation such as a buried oil tank that may require further investigation to determine the severity and / or urgency of repair.
- Future Project:A repair that may be deferred for some time but should be on the radar for repair or replacement in the near future.
- Efficiency:Denotes observations that are needed to make the home more energy efficient as well as to bring the home up to modern insulation standards. This category typically includes windows and insulation. Other items, such as lighting and appliances, are not inspected for their energy status.
- Completed:Items that were initially an issue but have since been completed.
- Note:Refers to aside information and /or any comments elaborating on descriptions of systems in the home or limitations to the home inspection.
- Description:Detailed description of various aspects of the property noted during the inspection.
Summary Page
The Summary Page is designed as a bulleted overview of all the observations noted during inspection. This helpful overview is not a substitution for reading the entire inspection report. The entire report must be read to get a complete understanding of this inspection report as the Summary Page does not include photographs or photo captions.
Moisture Meter Testing
Where moisture meter testing is indicated in this report aMoisture Encounter Plus was used.
Summary
Repairs
- G-1 Grounds:
Downspouts are discharging adjacent to the foundation. This can cause foundation settlement or basement / crawl space moisture problems. Make sure all downspouts discharge into a proper tight-line system that diverts water at least 5 feet away from the foundation.
- G-2 Grounds:
There are area's around the home's exterior, where the soil is sloped back towards the foundation. I recommend having these area's re-graded to help water flow away from the foundation.
- G-3 Grounds:
The concrete surfaces around the home's exterior, had settlement cracks that were severe in certain areas. I recommend having a concrete contractor assess, and repair or replace sections of the home's concrete exterior surfaces.
- G-4 Grounds:
All trees, branches and vegetation should be pruned at least six feet away from the building to eliminate a condition conducive to wood destroying organisms and a path for rodent entry.
- EG-1 Exterior/Garage:
The access door, leading to the crawl space has some water damage, and dry rot. I recommend having this access door replaced.
- EG-2 Exterior/Garage:
Organic growth was noted on the masonry chimney. This can be bad for the chimney and trap water in the masonry and hasten deterioration of brick and mortar. Consult with a qualified mason about options for cleaning and sealing the chimney and repairing failing mortar as needed.
- EG-3 Exterior/Garage:
A rain cap and spark arrestor is recommended for the chimney flue to prevent water damage inside the flue, to reduce risks of bird and inspect entry into the flue and to reduce risks from sparks exiting the flue.
- EG-4 Exterior/Garage:
The concrete chimney cap has some cracks and requires repair to prevent water from entering and damaging the chimney. Hire a mason to further evaluate and repair the masonry chimney cap.
- EG-5 Exterior/Garage:
The NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) recommends an annual inspection of all chimneys, fireplaces, solid fuel-burning appliances, and vents. They also recommend an NFPA 211 Standard, Level II inspection upon sale or transfer of the property. A Level II inspection includes, not only cleaning the interior of the chimney pipe, but also the use of specialized tools and testing procedures such as video cameras, etc. to thoroughly evaluate the serviceability of the entire flue lining and fireplace/chimney system. If one has not been performed over the past 12 months, such an inspection is recommended before home changes ownership---for fire safety reasons. Implement any repairs as recommended. There were some vertical cracks in some of the masonry units that were visible on the back side of the fireplace, from within the garage. These cracks would warranty this level 2 inspection.
- RA-1 Roof/Attic:
There is some moss growth, on the home's roofing materials. I recommend chemically treating the moss, then having the died back remains removed. I do not recommend pressure washing of any roofing materials.
- RA-2 Roof/Attic:
The majority of the plumbing vent gaskets, on the home's roof are cracked and in need of replacement. I recommend having a roofing contractor replace the home's plumbing vent boots.
- RA-3 Roof/Attic:
There are some galvanized metal strips attached to the roof, that need to be removed. It was common practice to install these strips to deter moss growth on roofs, but they have been replaced with chemical systems. I recommend having these galvanized metal strips removed.
- RA-4 Roof/Attic:
There is a damaged section of gutter material on the rear of the home, that appear to have been from a tree branch strike. I recommend having this section either repaired, or replaced by a gutter contractor.
- RA-6 Roof/Attic:
There is some discoloration, and dry rot in the sheathing materials around the penetration for the chimney in the attic space. I recommend having a roofing contractor assess, repair, and replace any damage caused by this issue.
- E-1 Electrical:
There was no permit or inspection sticker found, for the home's main electrical panel from the municipalities electrical inspector. I recommend either having the documentation for this panel to be produced, or have the panel inspected and signed off by the municipalities electrical inspector.
- E-2 Electrical:
There is a missing face panel screw, on the home's main electrical panel. I recommend having this screw replaced.
- E-3 Electrical:
There were two electrical outlets in the home, that read to have open grounds when tested. One was in the front left bedroom, and the other in the family room to the right of the gas fireplace. I recommend having an electrical contractor assess, and repair this issue.
- E-4 Electrical:
The door bell, on the rear of the home near the door to the laundry room did not work when tested. I recommend having this issue repaired.
- P-1 Plumbing:
The home's water meter, is located in the front yard to the left of the driveway.
- P-3 Plumbing:
The home's main water shut off, is located in the water meter pit to the left of the driveway.
- P-4 Plumbing:
The supply pipe insulation is incomplete in the crawl space. Be sure all supply lines in unheated spaces have been adequately insulated to protect from freezing conditions that could damage the pipes and to prevent heat loss.
- P-9 Plumbing:
The water heater temperature was set too low at the time of inspection - just 95 degrees F. The range of 120-125 degrees F is the generally recommended temperature. Adjust water heater temperature as needed. For best practice, set water temperature at the water heater to 130 degrees F and use a tempering valve to set water temp back to a safe 120 for domestic use. This high tank temperature will reduce risks of Legionella developing in the tank.
- P-11 Plumbing:
The home has two water heaters. There is an electric 50 gallon unit in the main bathroom, along with a gas fired water heater in the garage that is a 40 gallon unit. Both of the water heaters were manufactured in 2006.
- HCFV-2 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
Annual servicing of the gas forced air furnace is recommended for safe and reliable heat. I could not find recent service records on the furnace. The furnace was tested during inspection and was operational. The design life of these forced air furnaces is 15-20 years. I recommend having it serviced and keeping it on an annual service schedule until updated.
- HCFV-3 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
The heating distribution ductwork in the crawl space was noted to be poorly insulated and should be repaired to improve the efficiency of the heating system. Use duct mastic to seal all air-leaks and insulate ductwork to R-8 or better.
- I-1 Interior:
The glass doors, in the family bathroom where not attached to the lower guide rail. I recommend having a general contractor assess, and repair this issue.
- I-2 Interior:
There were no noted screens on any of the home's windows, or sliding glass doors. I recommend having screens installed on the home's windows, and sliding glass door.
- I-3 Interior:
The home's windows, have had a double window glazing added to it. This is an older system, that could develop moisture between the panes at some point. I recommend monitoring the home's windows for signs of moisture, and having them repaired as needed by a window contractor.
- I-4 Interior:
Moderate rodent damage was noted in the crawl space below the house. Implement a plan to eliminate all rodent entry points, set and monitor traps and remediate all contamination. Rodent issues in attics and crawl spaces are common. Regular baiting and trapping is recommended to ensure exclusion work is successful and to monitor these spaces.
- K-1 Kitchen:
The cabinet underneath the kitchen sink, has active water damage. I was unable to determine the source of the leak, but the damage to the interior of the cabinet was enough for it to be rebuilt. I recommend having a general contractor assess, and repair or rebuild the cabinet beneath the kitchen sink. I also recommend having a plumbing contractor assess, and repair the issue causing the water damage in this cabinet.
- K-2 Kitchen:
The home's dishwasher, had a damaged heating coil. When tested the unit backed up water through the air gap on top on the sink, and was not completely run. I recommend either having the home's dishwasher repaired, or replaced by an appliance contractor.
- K-3 Kitchen:
The dishwasher air gap, vented water into the kitchen sink basin when tested. I recommend having the air gaps drain lines cleaned out by a plumbing contractor.
- K-4 Kitchen:
There was no anti-tip bracket installed on the home's oven/cook top. I recommend having this issue repaired.
- PB1-1 Powder Bathroom:
There was no cabinet, in the bathroom located next to the laundry room.
- FB-1 Family Bathroom:
The sink basin, in the family bathroom was slow to drain when tested. I recommend having a plumbing contractor assess, and repair this issue.
- CS-1 Crawl Space:
There is active rodent activity in the home's crawl space. This activity has damaged the vapor barrier, and insulation that covers the duct work for the heater. I recommend having a pest control contractor assess, and treat the home's crawl space for rodent activity. I recommend having an HVAC contractor assess, and repair the insulation on the duct work in the crawl space. I also recommend having the crawl space cleaned of rodent droppings, and vapor barrier replaced by a crawl space cleaning contractor.
- CS-3 Crawl Space:
The current vapor barrier in the crawl space is rodent-damaged. Replace vapor barrier. Use 6 mil black plastic to cover all exposed earth.
- CS-4 Crawl Space:
There is debris, covering some of the foundation vents. I recommend having the debris cleared, so the crawl space will vent as designed.
Monitors
- P-10 Plumbing:
This water heater is likely close to the end of its useful service life. The average life of these water heaters is statistically 8-12 years though in practice, they can vary widely between 8-20 years depending on water quality and maintenance schedule such as frequency of flushing the tank and replacing sacrificial anodes. Budget to replace this water heater at any time. Water was hot at the time of inspection.
Due Diligences
- P-7 Plumbing:
An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. Due to the age and location of the building, a sewer scope is recommended to further evaluate the sewer line and the below ground connections between the house and the municipal sewer line. Sewer scopes are done using video cameras and can reveal the materials, condition and reliability of the sewer line.
Future Projects
- P-5 Plumbing:
Budget to replace the remaining galvanized steel supply pipe at some point in the near term and definitely during any remodel work to kitchens, laundry or bathrooms. The average life of this pipe can vary widely, but tends to be between 40-60 years. As this pipe gets old and corrodes, the insides of the pipe fill with rust, causing restrictions in the pipe. This can be tolerated for some time, but eventually the functional flow becomes so diminished that pipe replacement is necessary. At the time of inspection, functional flow was adequate and no active leaks were found. This condition could change or worsen at any time.
- P-6 Plumbing:
Budget to replace the remaining galvanized steel supply pipe at some point in the near term and definitely during any remodel work to kitchens, laundry or bathrooms. Most of the pipe was not visible to inspection so I could not adequately determine the % of steel pipe. The average life of this pipe can vary widely, but tends to be between 40-60 years. As this pipe gets old and corrodes, the insides of the pipe fill with rust, causing restrictions in the pipe. This can be tolerated for some time, but eventually the functional flow becomes so diminished that pipe replacement is necessary. At the time of inspection, functional flow was adequate and no visible active leaks were found. This condition could change or worsen at any time.
Notes
- GC-4 General Comments:
This house was vacant / unoccupied at the time of inspection. Vacant and unoccupied houses present unique challenges for home inspection, especially the piping and wiring systems which have not be subject to regular use prior to the inspection. While these systems can be tested during inspection, this one-time test is quite different than regular use and it is difficult to know how these systems will respond to regular use after the inspection. For example, septic systems may initially function and then fail under regular daily use. Plumbing traps may operate with no signs of leaks and then let go when being actively used for a few days. Shower pans may only leak when someone is standing in the shower and taking a shower. Seals for plumbing fixtures can dry up and leak when not is use. Sewer lines with roots may allow water flow, but then fail when waste and tissue are flushed; it can take a few days for that to backup. Please understand we are trying our best to look for clues of past or existing problems to paint a realistic best-guess as to the reliability of these systems during inspection.
- RA-5 Roof/Attic:
I did not crawl the crawl space for the attic where there was no ramp or safe way to access the space. Crawling in the V of trusses or on top of framing risks damaging thermal barriers and ceiling finishes and is not a safe way to access an attic. This limited inspection of this space.
- LAP-1 Laundry and Additional Plumbing:
Apparently, the washer and dryer appliances are not included in this sale.
- LAP-2 Laundry and Additional Plumbing:
The clothes dryer is apparently not included with the sale of the house. I recommend verifying this and budget accordingly.
General Comments
Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations
Style of Home: Contemporary
Type of Building : Residential Single Family (1 story)
Approximate Square Footage: 1550
Approximate Year of Original Construction: 1964
This building likely has wiring that predates the late 1980's. Branch circuit wiring installed in buildings built prior to the late 1980s is typically rated for a maximum temperature of only 60 degrees Celsius. This includes non-metallic sheathed (Romex) wiring, and both BX and AC metal-clad flexible wiring. Knob and tube wiring, typically installed in homes built prior to 1950, may be rated for even lower maximum temperatures. Newer electric fixtures including lighting and fans typically require wiring rated for 90 degrees Celsius. Connecting newer fixtures to older, 60-degree-rated wiring is a potential fire hazard. Repairs for such conditions may involve replacing the last few feet of wiring to newer fixtures with new 90-degree-rated wire, and installing a junction box to join the old and new wiring. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if any such incompatible components are installed. Based on the age of this building, be aware that such components may be present.
In 1978, federal laws were past to prohibit use of lead and asbestos in building materials. Manufacturers of building materials were allowed to sell existing stocks of materials that were manufactured with lead and asbestos, so even buildings constructed as late as the mid-1980's could possibly contain lead or asbestos. Identification and testing for lead and asbestos and other environmental testing is beyond the scope of this home inspection. If you wish to seek additional information, I recommend contacting an environmental lab or industrial hygienist.
Solid conductor aluminum wiring was used in residential construction for 15 and 20-amp circuits in the 1960's through the 1970's. This wiring has proven to be problematic and a fire hazard, primarily due to problems with loose connections and metal fatigue. I looked hard to find any signs of solid conductor aluminum here. No signs were found. There is always a chance that solid conductor aluminum wiring exists and is concealed from view. If this wiring is ever uncovered during subsequent renovation work, I recommend removal and replacement.
Attending the Inspection: Buyer's Agent
Occupancy: Unoccupied
Animals Present: No
Weather during the inspection: Clear
Approximate temperature during the inspection: Below 65[F]
Ground/Soil surface conditions: Dry
For the Purposes of This Report, the Front Door Faces: East
This house was vacant / unoccupied at the time of inspection. Vacant and unoccupied houses present unique challenges for home inspection, especially the piping and wiring systems which have not be subject to regular use prior to the inspection. While these systems can be tested during inspection, this one-time test is quite different than regular use and it is difficult to know how these systems will respond to regular use after the inspection. For example, septic systems may initially function and then fail under regular daily use. Plumbing traps may operate with no signs of leaks and then let go when being actively used for a few days. Shower pans may only leak when someone is standing in the shower and taking a shower. Seals for plumbing fixtures can dry up and leak when not is use. Sewer lines with roots may allow water flow, but then fail when waste and tissue are flushed; it can take a few days for that to backup. Please understand we are trying our best to look for clues of past or existing problems to paint a realistic best-guess as to the reliability of these systems during inspection.
Grounds
Drainage and Lot Location
Clearance to Grade: Standard
Downspout Discharge: Above grade, Next to Foundation
Site Description: Flat
Downspouts are discharging adjacent to the foundation. This can cause foundation settlement or basement / crawl space moisture problems. Make sure all downspouts discharge into a proper tight-line system that diverts water at least 5 feet away from the foundation.
There are area's around the home's exterior, where the soil is sloped back towards the foundation. I recommend having these area's re-graded to help water flow away from the foundation.
Driveways/Walkways/Flatwork
Driveway: Concrete
Walkways: Concrete
Patios: Concrete
The concrete surfaces around the home's exterior, had settlement cracks that were severe in certain areas. I recommend having a concrete contractor assess, and repair or replace sections of the home's concrete exterior surfaces.
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Window and Stairwells
None Noted
Grounds, Trees and Vegetation
Trees/Vegetation too near building: Yes
All trees, branches and vegetation should be pruned at least six feet away from the building to eliminate a condition conducive to wood destroying organisms and a path for rodent entry.
Fences
Partial fencing noted
Carports and Outbuildings
None noted
Exterior/Garage
Siding and Trim
Trim Material: Wood
Siding Material: Wood
Eaves
Plywood
Exterior Doors
Solid core
The access door, leading to the crawl space has some water damage, and dry rot. I recommend having this access door replaced.
Exterior Window Frames
Metal
Decks, Balconies and Porches
None noted
Chimneys
Present
Chimney Material: Masonry
Chimney Flue Liners: Present
Organic growth was noted on the masonry chimney. This can be bad for the chimney and trap water in the masonry and hasten deterioration of brick and mortar. Consult with a qualified mason about options for cleaning and sealing the chimney and repairing failing mortar as needed.
A rain cap and spark arrestor is recommended for the chimney flue to prevent water damage inside the flue, to reduce risks of bird and inspect entry into the flue and to reduce risks from sparks exiting the flue.
The concrete chimney cap has some cracks and requires repair to prevent water from entering and damaging the chimney. Hire a mason to further evaluate and repair the masonry chimney cap.
The NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) recommends an annual inspection of all chimneys, fireplaces, solid fuel-burning appliances, and vents. They also recommend an NFPA 211 Standard, Level II inspection upon sale or transfer of the property. A Level II inspection includes, not only cleaning the interior of the chimney pipe, but also the use of specialized tools and testing procedures such as video cameras, etc. to thoroughly evaluate the serviceability of the entire flue lining and fireplace/chimney system. If one has not been performed over the past 12 months, such an inspection is recommended before home changes ownership---for fire safety reasons. Implement any repairs as recommended. There were some vertical cracks in some of the masonry units that were visible on the back side of the fireplace, from within the garage. These cracks would warranty this level 2 inspection.
Garage
Attached
Automatic Garage Opener: Present
Garage Door Type: Wood
Roof/Attic
Roof Materials
Method of Roof Inspection: Walked on roof
Roof Style: Gable, Hip
Roof Materials: Architectural grade composition shingle
Approximate Age of Roof: 10-12 Years
Overlay Roof: No
There is some moss growth, on the home's roofing materials. I recommend chemically treating the moss, then having the died back remains removed. I do not recommend pressure washing of any roofing materials.
The majority of the plumbing vent gaskets, on the home's roof are cracked and in need of replacement. I recommend having a roofing contractor replace the home's plumbing vent boots.
There are some galvanized metal strips attached to the roof, that need to be removed. It was common practice to install these strips to deter moss growth on roofs, but they have been replaced with chemical systems. I recommend having these galvanized metal strips removed.
Skylights
None noted
Gutters and Downspouts
Gutter and Downspout Materials: Aluminum
There is a damaged section of gutter material on the rear of the home, that appear to have been from a tree branch strike. I recommend having this section either repaired, or replaced by a gutter contractor.
Attic Access
Crawled partial
I did not crawl the crawl space for the attic where there was no ramp or safe way to access the space. Crawling in the V of trusses or on top of framing risks damaging thermal barriers and ceiling finishes and is not a safe way to access an attic. This limited inspection of this space.
Roof Framing and Sheathing
Rafters: 2x6
Sheathing: Plywood
There is some discoloration, and dry rot in the sheathing materials around the penetration for the chimney in the attic space. I recommend having a roofing contractor assess, repair, and replace any damage caused by this issue.
Attic Insulation
Insulation Type: Fiberglass, Not visible
Approximate Insulation R-Value on Attic Floor: 30
Approximate Insulation R-Value on Attic Ceiling: 0
Approximate Insulation R-Value on Attic Walls: Not needed
Attic and Roof Cavity Ventilation
Attic Ventilation Method: Soffit vents
Attic and roof cavity ventilation is a frequently-misunderstood element of residential construction. All roof cavities are required to have ventilation. The general default standard is 1 to 150 of the attic area and ideally, this comes from at least 60% lower roof cavity ventilation and 40% upper, but this is a wild over-simplifications of the subject. As a good guiding principle the most important elements for healthy attic spaces, which are traditionally insulated and ventilated are:
- Make sure the ceiling between the living space and the attic is airtight
- Ventilate consistently across the whole lower part of the roof cavity with low, intake soffit venting
- Upper roof cavity venting is less important and if over-installed can exacerbate air migration into the attic from the living space.
- Avoid power ventilators which can depressurize the attic and exacerbate air migration from the house into the attic.
For more information, please see: Link
Electrical
Electric Service Permits Found
There was no permit or inspection sticker found, for the home's main electrical panel from the municipalities electrical inspector. I recommend either having the documentation for this panel to be produced, or have the panel inspected and signed off by the municipalities electrical inspector.
Electric Service Voltage Tested
Service Voltage: 120/240
Electric Service
Service Entrance: Above Ground
Meter Base Amperage: 150
Service Equipment
Service Entrance (SE) conductor Size: Copper, #2, 125 amps
Main Panel Amperage: 125 amps
Electric Service Amperage: 125 amps
Main Electric Panel Location: Garage
Panel Manufacturer: Bryant
There is a missing face panel screw, on the home's main electrical panel. I recommend having this screw replaced.
Branch Wiring
Wire Material: Copper
Wiring Method: Non-metallic sheathed cable
Receptacles and Fixtures
Inspection Method: Random Testing
There were two electrical outlets in the home, that read to have open grounds when tested. One was in the front left bedroom, and the other in the family room to the right of the gas fireplace. I recommend having an electrical contractor assess, and repair this issue.
The door bell, on the rear of the home near the door to the laundry room did not work when tested. I recommend having this issue repaired.
Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm Systems
CO Alarms Noted:
On Main Floor
On 2nd FloorIn BasementOn 3rd FloorIn Bonus Room
Smoke Alarms Noted:On Main FloorOn 2nd FloorIn BasementOn 3rd FloorIn All BedroomsIn Bonus Room
Electrical Grounding System
Present - Could Not Confirm
Electrical Bonding System
Present - Could Not Confirm
Plumbing
Water Meter
The home's water meter, is located in the front yard to the left of the driveway.
Water Pressure Tested During Inspection
This shows the water pressure tested during inspection.
Location of Main Water Shut Off
The home's main water shut off, is located in the water meter pit to the left of the driveway.
Water Service Supply
Pipe Material: Unknown
Water Supply: Public water
Water Pressure: 50 PSI
Pressure Reducing Valve: None noted
Main Water Shut-off Location: Meter
Distribution Pipe
Pipe Insulation: Missing in Crawl Space
Supply Pipe Materials: Galvanized steel
Functional Flow: Average
Circulation Pump: None Noted
The supply pipe insulation is incomplete in the crawl space. Be sure all supply lines in unheated spaces have been adequately insulated to protect from freezing conditions that could damage the pipes and to prevent heat loss.
Budget to replace the remaining galvanized steel supply pipe at some point in the near term and definitely during any remodel work to kitchens, laundry or bathrooms. The average life of this pipe can vary widely, but tends to be between 40-60 years. As this pipe gets old and corrodes, the insides of the pipe fill with rust, causing restrictions in the pipe. This can be tolerated for some time, but eventually the functional flow becomes so diminished that pipe replacement is necessary. At the time of inspection, functional flow was adequate and no active leaks were found. This condition could change or worsen at any time.
Budget to replace the remaining galvanized steel supply pipe at some point in the near term and definitely during any remodel work to kitchens, laundry or bathrooms. Most of the pipe was not visible to inspection so I could not adequately determine the % of steel pipe. The average life of this pipe can vary widely, but tends to be between 40-60 years. As this pipe gets old and corrodes, the insides of the pipe fill with rust, causing restrictions in the pipe. This can be tolerated for some time, but eventually the functional flow becomes so diminished that pipe replacement is necessary. At the time of inspection, functional flow was adequate and no visible active leaks were found. This condition could change or worsen at any time.
Waste Pipe and Discharge
Discharge Type: Public sewer
Waste and Vent Pipe Materials: ABS plastic, Galvanized steel
Location of Sewer Cleanout: Not Found
This shows the location of the sewer cleanout found during inspection - east side of house.
An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. Due to the age and location of the building, a sewer scope is recommended to further evaluate the sewer line and the below ground connections between the house and the municipal sewer line. Sewer scopes are done using video cameras and can reveal the materials, condition and reliability of the sewer line.
Water Heater
System Type: Tank
Manufacturer: Bradford-White
Water Temperature: 100 Degrees F
Size: 50 gal, 40 gal
Age: 2006
Energy Source: Electricity, Gas
Straps : Present
The water heater temperature was set too low at the time of inspection - just 95 degrees F. The range of 120-125 degrees F is the generally recommended temperature. Adjust water heater temperature as needed. For best practice, set water temperature at the water heater to 130 degrees F and use a tempering valve to set water temp back to a safe 120 for domestic use. This high tank temperature will reduce risks of Legionella developing in the tank.
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This water heater is likely close to the end of its useful service life. The average life of these water heaters is statistically 8-12 years though in practice, they can vary widely between 8-20 years depending on water quality and maintenance schedule such as frequency of flushing the tank and replacing sacrificial anodes. Budget to replace this water heater at any time. Water was hot at the time of inspection.
The home has two water heaters. There is an electric 50 gallon unit in the main bathroom, along with a gas fired water heater in the garage that is a 40 gallon unit. Both of the water heaters were manufactured in 2006.
Exterior Hose Bibs
Operating
Additional Sinks
Tested
Laundry and Additional Plumbing
Washer
Not included
Apparently, the washer and dryer appliances are not included in this sale.
Dryer
Not included
Power Source: Electric
Exhaust Duct: Ducted to Exterior
The clothes dryer is apparently not included with the sale of the house. I recommend verifying this and budget accordingly.
Laundry Sinks
Tested
Sump Pumps and Drains
Floor Drain: None noted
Sump Pumps: None noted
Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation
Heating System
Energy Source: Natural gas
Heating Method: Gas forced air furnace
This house has a gas forced air furnace. The key to all combustion equipment like this is the heat exchanger. This is the welded clam-shell piece of metal inside the furnace that contains the products of combustion so that moisture, carbon monoxide and other products of combustion do not mix with interior air and get safely vented to the exterior. Heat exchangers on modern furnaces have an average life expectancy of 15-20 years. Unfortunately, heat exchangers are buried inside of heating equipment; they are not visible and specifically excluded from a home inspection. The risk of continuing to user older combustion, forced-air equipment is you could get a crack and the heat exchanger and never be aware of it. Be sure you have operable carbon monoxide alarms inside the house and consider updating these forced air furnaces on a roughly 20-year schedule.
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Manufacturer: Ameristar
Age: 2017
Last Service Record: None
Annual servicing of the gas forced air furnace is recommended for safe and reliable heat. I could not find recent service records on the furnace. The furnace was tested during inspection and was operational. The design life of these forced air furnaces is 15-20 years. I recommend having it serviced and keeping it on an annual service schedule until updated.
Air Filters
Filtration Systems: None found
Heating and Cooling Distribution Systems
Heat Source in Each Room: Present
Distribution Method: Forced Air / Ducts
The heating distribution ductwork in the crawl space was noted to be poorly insulated and should be repaired to improve the efficiency of the heating system. Use duct mastic to seal all air-leaks and insulate ductwork to R-8 or better.
Mechanical Ventilation Systems
Bath Fan Ducting: Ducted to exterior
Kitchen Fan Ducting: Ducted to exterior
Gas Fireplaces
Fireplace Types: Direct vent gas log fireplace
Fuel Storage and Distribution
Gas Meter
Present
Gas Shutoff Location: Side of structure
Gas Pipe Materials: Steel and flex pipe
Structure and Basement
Foundation
% of Foundation Not Visible: 100%
Evidence of Seismic Protection: Present
Building Configuration: Crawl space
Foundation Description: Poured concrete
Floor, Wall and Ceiling Framing
Wall Framing: Not visible
Wall Sheathing: Not visible
Floor Framing: Car decking and girders
Sub-Floor Material: Car decking
Ceiling Framing: 2x4
Interior
Floors and Floor Materials
Floor Materials: Carpet, Plastic laminate, Stone, Hardwood
Floor Settlement: None noted
Walls, Ceilings, Trim and Closets
Wall and Ceiling Materials: Drywall
Wall Insulation and Air Bypass
Wall Insulation: Not Visible
Stairs and Railings
Standard
Interior Doors
Solid Core
The glass doors, in the family bathroom where not attached to the lower guide rail. I recommend having a general contractor assess, and repair this issue.
Windows
Window Glazing: Double pane
Interior Window Frame: Metal
Window Styles: Awning
There were no noted screens on any of the home's windows, or sliding glass doors. I recommend having screens installed on the home's windows, and sliding glass door.
The home's windows, have had a double window glazing added to it. This is an older system, that could develop moisture between the panes at some point. I recommend monitoring the home's windows for signs of moisture, and having them repaired as needed by a window contractor.
Pests and Rodents
Present
Moderate rodent damage was noted in the crawl space below the house. Implement a plan to eliminate all rodent entry points, set and monitor traps and remediate all contamination. Rodent issues in attics and crawl spaces are common. Regular baiting and trapping is recommended to ensure exclusion work is successful and to monitor these spaces.
Kitchen
Sinks and Faucets
Tested
Cabinets and Countertops
Countertop Material: Tile
Cabinet Material: Wood
The cabinet underneath the kitchen sink, has active water damage. I was unable to determine the source of the leak, but the damage to the interior of the cabinet was enough for it to be rebuilt. I recommend having a general contractor assess, and repair or rebuild the cabinet beneath the kitchen sink. I also recommend having a plumbing contractor assess, and repair the issue causing the water damage in this cabinet.
Ventilation Method
Fan Ducted to Exterior
Appliances
Refrigerator: Operating
Dishwasher: Operated
Dishwasher Air Gap: Present
Range/ Oven /Cook-tops: Electric
Disposer: None noted
The home's dishwasher, had a damaged heating coil. When tested the unit backed up water through the air gap on top on the sink, and was not completely run. I recommend either having the home's dishwasher repaired, or replaced by an appliance contractor.
The dishwasher air gap, vented water into the kitchen sink basin when tested. I recommend having the air gaps drain lines cleaned out by a plumbing contractor.
There was no anti-tip bracket installed on the home's oven/cook top. I recommend having this issue repaired.
General Kitchen Condition
Standard
Powder Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
None noted, Tested
There was no cabinet, in the bathroom located next to the laundry room.
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
None noted
Bathroom Ventilation
Type: None noted
General Bath Condition
Standard
Family Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
The sink basin, in the family bathroom was slow to drain when tested. I recommend having a plumbing contractor assess, and repair this issue.
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
Bathroom Ventilation
Type: Bath fan
General Bath Condition
Standard
Crawl Space
General Crawl Space Photos
There is active rodent activity in the home's crawl space. This activity has damaged the vapor barrier, and insulation that covers the duct work for the heater. I recommend having a pest control contractor assess, and treat the home's crawl space for rodent activity. I recommend having an HVAC contractor assess, and repair the insulation on the duct work in the crawl space. I also recommend having the crawl space cleaned of rodent droppings, and vapor barrier replaced by a crawl space cleaning contractor.
Crawl Space Access
Method of Inspection: Crawled
During inspection of the crawl space, every effort is made to inspect behind sub-floor insulation and crawl the entire space. Visual inspection of crawl spaces is difficult as inspection is often restricted by pipes, ducts and sub-floor insulation as well as limited clearances.
Vapor Barrier
Vapor Barrier Material: Old and Rodent Damaged
The current vapor barrier in the crawl space is rodent-damaged. Replace vapor barrier. Use 6 mil black plastic to cover all exposed earth.
Crawl Space Ventilation
Ventilation Method: Exterior wall vents
There is debris, covering some of the foundation vents. I recommend having the debris cleared, so the crawl space will vent as designed.
Posts and Footings
Standard
Insulation
Insulation Type: None noted
Approximate R-Value: None noted
Moisture Conditions
None Noted
Checking Out Procedure
Check Out List
Oven:Off
Lights:OffClient and Realtor Still In House
Heating and Cooling:Restored to Pre-inspection temperatures
Appliances:Off / finishing cycle
Receipt -- Residential Inspection
Somewhere fancy Lakewood, WA 98498
| Inspection with digital report | $500.00 |
| $500.00 | |
| PAID |
South Sound Inspection
C/O Robert Jones
4227 South Meridian
Suite C #290Puyallup, WA 98373
253-820-9650
Signed Contracts
South Sound Inspection
253-820-9650
robjones@southsoundinspection.com
http://www.southsoundinspection.com
Inspected by Robert Jones
WA State Home Inspector #: 256