The Scope and Purpose of a Home Inspection
Purchasing property involves risk
The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a structure by providing a professional opinion about the overall condition of the structure. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we don’t know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend that you attend the inspection.
A home inspection is not an insurance policy
This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Home warranties can be purchased separately from insuring firms that provide this service.
A home inspection is visual and not destructive
The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing which will limit the scope of the inspection.
This is not an inspection for code compliance
This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction process structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, and this limits the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are augmented at least every three years for all of the varying disciplines. Municipalities can choose to adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their own timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done.
This is just our opinion
Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are the opinions of the home inspector. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have some differing opinions. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals.
The scope of this inspection
This inspection will include the following systems: exterior, roof, structure, drainage, foundation, attic, interior, plumbing, electrical and heating. The evaluation will be based on limited observations that are primarily visual and non-invasive. This inspection and report are not intended to be technically exhaustive.
Your expectations
The overall goal of a home inspection is to help ensure that your expectations are appropriate with the house you are proposing to buy. To this end we assist with discovery by showing and documenting observations during the home inspection. This should not be mistaken for a technically exhaustive inspection designed to uncover every defect with a building. Such inspections are available but they are generally cost-prohibitive to most homebuyers.
Your participation is requested
Your presence is requested during this inspection. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by a shared visual observation of the conditions of the property.
How to Read This Report
Getting the Information to You
This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a quick look at our "Summary Page” and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos and hot links to additional information.
The best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online, which will allow you to expand your learning about your house. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined – clicking on these will provide you with a link to additional information.
This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document.
Chapters and Sections
This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.
Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there may be no narrative observation comments in that section and it may simply say “tested,” or “inspected.”
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
- Major Concern:Repair items that may cost significant money to correct now or in the near future, or items that require immediate attention to prevent additional damage or eliminate safety hazards.
- Repair:Repair and maintenance items noted during inspection. Please note that some repair items can be expensive to correct such as re-finishing hardwood floors, but are considered simply repair items due to their cosmetic nature.
- Recommended Maintenance:These are repair items that should be considered "routine home ownership items," such as servicing the furnace, cleaning the gutters or changing the air filters in the furnace.
- Improve:Observations that are not necessarily defects, but which could be improved for safety, efficiency, or reliability reasons.
- Monitor:Items that should be watched to see if correction may be needed in the future.
- Due Diligence:Observation such as a buried oil tank that may require further investigation to determine the severity and / or urgency of repair.
- Future Project:A repair that may be deferred for some time but should be on the radar for repair or replacement in the near future.
- Efficiency:Denotes observations that are needed to make the home more energy efficient as well as to bring the home up to modern insulation standards. This category typically includes windows and insulation. Other items, such as lighting and appliances, are not inspected for their energy status.
- Completed:Items that were initially an issue but have since been completed.
- Note:Refers to aside information and /or any comments elaborating on descriptions of systems in the home or limitations to the home inspection.
- Description:Detailed description of various aspects of the property noted during the inspection.
Pest Inspection
All items with the bug logo (
) are part of a structural pest inspection. If your inspector included a structural pest inspection as a part of the scope of your home inspection, you can distinguish pest inspection items by this logo. You can also go to the pest inspection summary page to see a summary of the items that are part of a pest inspection.
Summary Page
The Summary Page is designed as a bulleted overview of all the observations noted during inspection. This helpful overview is not a substitution for reading the entire inspection report. The entire report must be read to get a complete understanding of this inspection report as the Summary Page does not include photographs or photo captions.
Summary
Major Concerns
- GR-1 Garage Roof:
The roofing material on this garage is done in a three tab composition shingle. These shingles are often rated as 25 year shingles, though in practice, as a roof assembly, 15-18 years is more realistic depending on the amount of exposure and the pitch of the roof. The roof looks to be done as an overlay, meaning there are additional layers of shingles below the existing layer. In general, overlays are prone to less predictable service life. They often suffer from inadequate nailing and inadequate flashings due to installation procedures. This can lead to premature leaks, nail pops, wind damage and failure. Overlay roofs also tend to break down more quickly as well due to heat build-up. One rule of thumb is to cut the useful service life of the shingle in half when installed as an overlay. During inspection today, multiple defects and red flags were found. Numerous defects and red flags were noted on this installation. I recommend additional inspection of this roof by a qualified roofing contractor. Implement repairs or replacement as recommended to ensure reliable performance. Specific examples of red flags noted today include:
- Roof is in excess of the allowable number of coverings
- Roof lacks required interlayment between successive layers.
- Flashings are loose and of poor installation
- EG-12 Exterior/Garage:
The deck ledger board has not been bolted to the home in accordance with standards. This risks deck failure as the ledger attachment to the house can pull free. I recommend installing an attachment system that conforms to recommended minimum standards in the American Wood Council Prescriptive Wood Residential Deck Construction Guide. See starting on page 14 of this guide.
- EG-15 Exterior/Garage:
Cracking in both the floor slab and walls are indication of settlement of the structure. Both walls and floor have been recently refinished which could be concealing more serious damage. It is recommended that these conditions be further evaluated by a qualified contractor to determine what improvements can be achieved as well as cost.
- HCFV-4 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
The air conditioning system appears to be over capacity considering the square footage of this home. This can result in poor and improper operation as excess cooling capacity results in the system "short cycling" which refers to a condition where, due to excessively cold temperatures produced, it operates for short periods of time and very often. It will not properly remove moisture from the interior air as needed and frequent starts and stops will drastically shorten the lifespan of the compressor. Sizing an air conditioner properly to a structure requires specific engineering and it is recommended that it be verified that this was completed. If not available, a qualified HVAC contractor should be contacted to conduct further evaluation at this time.
- CS-4 Crawl Space:
Moderate water was noted in the crawl space. This condition may change seasonally, or with rain intensity. Moisture in crawl spaces can lead to interior water damage, structural settlement and wood destroying organisms. Hire a drainage specialist or qualified contractor to further evaluate and correct this condition. Also see the Drainage section of this report for observations regarding exterior drainage repairs that may be recommended.
Water in the third photo shown is likely due to broken irrigation piping which passes from the front of the house to the back through the crawlspace .
Repairs
- G-1 Grounds:
Eliminate wood /soil contact to reduce the chances for rot and pest damage and repair any hidden rot as needed - see west side. Generally, a 6-inch clearance between soils and wood is recommended. This is often not realistic on older homes, but repairs should be made to get as much clearance as is possible and all contact with the soils should be eliminated.
- G-2 Grounds:
Portions of the walkway flatwork around the home are settling creating trip hazards - see front walkway and back patio. Hire a qualified general contractor to further investigate and repair to eliminate all trip hazards and ensure a reliable walking surface.
- G-3 Grounds:
The riser heights for the exterior front stairs are not even and are not to modern standards. This is a trip and safety hazard. The height of the tallest riser shall not exceed the smallest riser by more than 3/8th of an inch. Hire a licensed general contractor to further evaluate and repair.
- G-4 Grounds:
The entry stairs are also missing a graspable handrail for safety. This should be a round railing 1 and 1/4 inches - 2 inches in diameter. If the railing is not round it must have a finger groove that is 3/4 of an inch down from the tallest point of the rail. The graspable handrail should also be 1.5 inches from the wall. 2x material is not considered a graspable handrail. Have a qualified contractor build suitable railings to reduce the potential for falls.
- RA-2 Roof/Attic:
Incorrect flashing at plumbing vents. Cracked mastic present which could be related to poor support of plumbing pipes in the attic. Repair needed at this time and frequent maintenance may be needed.
Installation of a taller roof jack flashing would likely provide a more secure and maintenance free installation. This can be completed by a qualified roofing contractor.
- RA-5 Roof/Attic:
Debris is present throughout the attic, mostly related to previous work on the roof. This material should be cleaned from the entire space as it may damage insulation over time and can promote pest activity.
- RA-7 Roof/Attic:
Damage was noted on roof framing visible in the attic which should be further evaluated by a pest control professional. Their inspection is more invasive and will be able to determine the extent of damage and any needed repair or replacement.
- RA-8 Roof/Attic:
The insulation in the attic appears to be blocking the soffit and gable end ventilation - This could reduce attic ventilation and lead to seasonal condensation problems and shortened lifespan of the roofing materials. I recommend removing insulation and installing cardboard baffles to allow air flow from soffit vents into attic spaces and roof cavities to ensure reliable performance from the roofing system.
- GR-3 Garage Roof:
No attic access was found during inspection. This means the attic framing, sheathing, ventilation, insulation, wiring, fan terminations could not be inspected. I recommend installing an access and having the attic re-inspected. Standards recommend an access opening of 30 inches x 22 inches when there is greater than 30 sq/ft of attic space.
- EG-1 Exterior/Garage:
Holes were noted in the siding system of both the house and garage that require sealing to prevent water and air infiltration and potential paths for insect or rodent entry. Seal and paint as needed to block these openings.
- EG-2 Exterior/Garage:
Many of the door and windows were installed without the use of flashings. Metal flashing which is properly integrated with the siding is an important waterproofing feature and improper or missing installation can result in water damage to both visible and hidden locations within the walls. Although evidence of water damage was not seen, it may be present and improvements are recommended by a qualified siding installer to provide a long lasting installation.
- EG-3 Exterior/Garage:
Localized paint failure was noted at the exterior see especially where exposed to the weather. Implement localized painting as needed.
Portions of siding and trim were not primed and painted which will leave them prone to water damage and deterioration.
- EG-5 Exterior/Garage:
The rafters around the roof need to be cleaned and painted and repaired of any localized wood decay if discovered. Some of this damage seen could be related to insect activity and should be evaluated by a pest control professional.
- EG-7 Exterior/Garage:
Some of the doors rub against their jambs and should be trimmed for ease of use.
- EG-8 Exterior/Garage:
Strike plate is missing on back exit door. Install for added security and to prevent the door latch from damaging the finish.
- EG-9 Exterior/Garage:
Some of the wood sash windows have been repaired and replaced in areas. Most are functional however one located in the back bedroom is smaller than the window opening and falls free when operating. Repair needed as this can result in damage or injury due to breaking glass. Window can likely be widened, or larger parting bead be installed, by a qualified carpenter.
- EG-13 Exterior/Garage:
The deck surface was installed without gaps between the boards. A gap is needed to allow for expansion and contraction with seasonal changes and also to prevent water from being trapped between boards which will, over time, result in water damage and a shortened lifespan of the materials.
- EG-14 Exterior/Garage:
The framing on this deck is not of a material which is naturally resistant to rot and has not been painted or treated. Ideally exterior carpentry would be of a material such as redwood or pressure treated lumber. At a minimum, it is recommended that any of this type of wood present be painted or treated to help ensure a longer lasting installation. Note that this will involve removal of the deck surface .
- EG-16 Exterior/Garage:
The garage slab and surrounding paving are not sloped to drain. This could allow water to get trapped in the garage or wall interior. Typically, garage slabs are sloped to drain out the front door. There is not much that can be done about this at this time short of removing and re-pouring the slab. This will not be cost effective unless use of this space demands it.
- E-2 Electrical:
This panel lacks AFCI circuit breakers at required locations. These are a more advanced type of circuit breaker and have been required to be installed on certain circuits in homes since 2005. More recently, most all interior circuits have required AFCI protection. Client is advised to have a qualified electrician conduct further evaluation and install these types of breakers where needed and it is suggested that research be done to verify that this panel upgrade was made with approval from the local building department.
- E-3 Electrical:
The open electrical junction boxes need to be covered for improved safety - see attic. This is as simple as installing a cover plate over the box to protect the wiring. Sometimes, an extension ring is needed if finishes are covering the box. Repair as needed for improved safety.
- E-4 Electrical:
Surface run non-metallic sheathed cable was noted at the exterior of the house. The cable is subject to physical damage and should be protected. Have this wiring installed within conduit or protected otherwise as recommended by a qualified electrician.
- E-6 Electrical:
GFCI protected receptacles are not installed at all locations required. See laundry room here. Have a qualified electrician install as these are a presently required safety feature.
- E-9 Electrical:
Smoke detectors and carbon monoxide alarms are not operated as a part of a home inspection. They are only noted as to their presence in appropriate locations. These are generally tested by a retro-fitter as a part of the real estate transfer process and any questions regarding these devices will likely be discussed in their report.
- P-2 Plumbing:
When static water pressure exceeds 80 PSI, a pressure reducing valve is recommended to prevent accidental damage to the plumbing system. A pressure regulator is present however water pressure is too high - it measured at roughly 83 psi in the front hose bib. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair high water pressure as needed. This is likely as simple as adjustment of the installed regulator.
- P-6 Plumbing:
ABS piping was not properly assembled at some locations and will be prone to failure and leaks. Pipes not fully inserted into fitting hubs are weak connections which will likely break with use of the system. Have a qualified plumbing contractor conduct further evaluation and repair where needed.
- P-7 Plumbing:
The waste pipe has inadequate support. ABS and PVC type plastic pipe should be should be supported every 4 feet and where piping attaches to fixture traps. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair. This is an important repair to preform ASAP as the sagging pipes could collapse and fail. Repair will not be expensive but should be done right away.
- P-8 Plumbing:
ABS piping is supported by metal straps at some locations which is not allowable by industry standards. Metal straps can damage this plastic pipe over time resulting in leaks. Have a qualified plumbing contractor replace where needed.
- HCFV-2 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
The heating equipment does not have an adequate floor / ramp for servicing and accessing the equipment. The front of the heating equipment must have a 30 inch clearance so the appliance can be serviced safely and the catwalk accessing the furnace should be 24 inches wide. Improve / repair access to this furnace for improved safety in servicing the furnace.
- HCFV-3 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:
A hole is present in the blower compartment on the furnace cabinet. This should be sealed to prevent air from the attic from being drawn into the home.
- SB-1 Structure and Basement:
Minor to moderate cracks were noted in the poured concrete foundation. The purpose of the foundation is to connect the weight of the building to well-compacted soils below the house so that the house does not move or settle. Concrete cracking can indicate poorly compacted soils below the house which could require a repair, but small cracks can also be a sign of routine concrete shrinkage. It is not possible to determine or verify the cause of these cracks during a visual inspection. I recommend additional inspection of this structure by a qualified foundation contractor or structural engineer to determine the cost and urgency of repairs to prevent on-going settlement. The hope on older buildings is that poorly compacted soils below the foundation are now compacted by the weight of the building and no additional movement will occur. One of the better ways to prevent on-going settlement in buildings is to keep the soils around the house as dry as possible. Additional inspection by a specialist is needed to determine if repairs are needed to prevent additional movement or not. Please note that the scope and urgency of repairs for conditions like this can differ between contractors and you may want to seek more than one additional opinion.
- CS-2 Crawl Space:
The screens for the crawl space vents are missing in areas and could allow animal entry. Use 1/4 inch wire mesh screen and be sure all openings are well sealed to prevent rodent entry. Do not apply multiple layers of screen as this will restrict air flow.
- CS-3 Crawl Space:
Many of the footings for the posts that are picking up floor frame beams are not adequately lifting the wood above grade. As a result many of the posts are below grade and vulnerable to wood destroying organisms. This should be repaired to ensure reliable performance from these posts and to eliminate a condition conducive to wood destroying organisms. Hire a qualified general contractor to further investigate and repair.
- I-3 Interior:
The door to the north bedroom and one of the bathrooms is not latching and requires adjustment so the doors latch closed.
- I-4 Interior:
Visible water staining was seen on the interior side of one of the windows. This is indication of a need for exterior waterproofing and refinishing. These repairs should be scheduled soon to prevent more serious damage from occurring.
- I-5 Interior:
Many of the windows are painted shut and are not performing as intended. Recommend cutting open all stuck windows and implementing repairs to sash weights as needed to ensure reliable window performance.
- MB1-2 Master Bathroom:
Use caulking to seal between the backsplash and sink behind the master bath sink / countertop. Also where countertop meets splash wall.
- MB1-3 Master Bathroom:
The faucet to the master bathroom sink is loose and requires repair.
- MB1-4 Master Bathroom:
Low water flow was observed from this shower head. In a recently remodeled home, this is often due to one of two possible reasons. Often debris is present in the valve or shower head or the valve is improperly installed. Have a qualified plumber correct.
- HB-2 Hall Bathroom:
Caulking is needed where shower wall tile meets vinyl window framing. It is unlikely that shower waterproofing extends to the exterior of the house and gaps present at this location can result in water damage to the wall interior. This should be expected to be a maintenance item and periodic replacement of caulking will be needed.
Improves
- RA-4 Roof/Attic:
Roof systems lacks gutters and downspouts. Although not mandatory, it is highly recommended that these be installed to better manage runoff water. Lack of gutters generally results in water splashing back against the house which damages the surface over time. It also can cause over-saturation of the soil adjacent to the foundation leading to possible damage and structural settlement requiring costly repairs.
- GR-2 Garage Roof:
Roof systems lacks gutters and downspouts. Although not mandatory, it is highly recommended that these be installed to better manage runoff water. Lack of gutters generally results in water splashing back against the house which damages the surface over time. It also can cause over-saturation of the soil adjacent to the foundation leading to possible damage and structural settlement requiring costly repairs.
- EG-4 Exterior/Garage:
Some of the penetrations in the siding do not have adequate mounting blocks. For penetrations in the building envelope such as hose bibs and holes 1½ inch diameter or larger, such as dryer vents, a block shall be installed around the point of penetration. Blocking should be a minimum 3 in.. radius greater than the radius of the penetration. To install a block around an existing penetration, it may be necessary to cut the block into two pieces. In this case, weather-cut the trim to fit it into place. Install flashing over the top of the trim block. Penetrations through a building envelope are made to accommodate needs such as hose bibs, dryer and furnace vents, electrical conduit, etc. It is important to restore the weather-resistant barrier of the home after cutting a hole for the penetration.
- EG-6 Exterior/Garage:
The door glazing did not appear to be safety glass. No logo or tempered bug was visible. All glazing greater than 3 inches in exterior doors should be safety glass. Updating with tempered or laminated glass is recommended for improved safety.
Monitors
- EG-10 Exterior/Garage:
Many of the wood windows in this home are exposed to the weather and will require regular painting and sealing maintenance to preserve the windows and prevent decay. The windows were in satisfactory condition at the time of this inspection. OI checked the windows for wood decay and damaged during inspection.
Due Diligences
- RA-3 Roof/Attic:
The roofing material on this building appears to be a recently installed dimensional or architectural grade shingle. These are often rated as 30-year shingles. In practice, as a roof assembly, I find these last closer to 18-22 years depending on the quality of the installation, the steepness of the roof and the amount of exposure. The installation appears neat and professional. Inquire with the HOA about any warranty information for this roof. Many professional roofing companies will offer limited workmanship warranties.
- P-5 Plumbing:
It was not apparent or disclosed, if this house is on a public sewer connection or on a private on-site septic system. I recommend inquiring with the seller for additional inspection and have the system inspected or video-scoped as desired to ensure reliable performance from this important system. Please note that evaluation of sewer and septic connections are beyond the scope of this home inspection.
- LAP-1 Laundry and Additional Plumbing:
An exterior irrigation system was noted for this home. Sprinkler systems are beyond the scope of this inspection. When testing the system, be sure sprinkler heads are adjusted so the system is not watering the side of the house. Hire a specialist to further evaluate this system as desired.
- G1-1 Gas:
Gas meter may be undersized considering the recent HVAC upgrades as well as installation of a tankless water heater. Recommend that this be further evaluated by the supplying utility company as they can provide a larger meter if required.
- SB-2 Structure and Basement:
Portions of the concrete footing have been faced over with a layer of concrete. When this is done, there is typically damage beneath and the new facing will not add any significant amount of strength. This should be further evaluated by a foundation specialist to determine what degree of improvements may be needed as well as cost.
- SB-3 Structure and Basement:
Evidence of structural modification to the building was noted. Inquire with the seller if permits were obtained for this work and / or engineering was done. No red flags to indicate failure were noted at the time of inspection, however, some of the framing may be concealed from view and an evaluation of structural adequacy is beyond the scope of this inspection.
- I-1 Interior:
Settlement was noted in the floor frame system during inspection today. I could not find red flags to indicate recent movement but with the recent remodel work it is possible that prior conditions have been concealed. Inquire with the seller regarding any history of structural settlement. The hope on older buildings like this is that poorly compacted soils have now compacted with the weight of the building and wood has now dried out and shrunk and settlement will have stopped. This is impossible to predict during a one time visual inspection. Additional inspection by a qualified general contractor or structural engineer is needed to determine a scope and urgency for repair.
Notes
- RA-6 Roof/Attic:
I did not crawl the crawl space for the attic where there was no ramp or safe way to access the space. Crawling in the V of trusses or on top of framing risks damaging thermal barriers and ceiling finishes and is not a safe way to access an attic. Most all of the area was however visible from accessible locations.
- I-2 Interior:
The interior of this home was recently repainted. Defects such as cracking and staining on walls provides clues to other conditions which may be still be present however are not evident at this time.
- MB1-5 Master Bathroom:
During inspection today, all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms were operated. Bathtub overflow drains are not tested as this risks damaging finishes around the tub. Monitor tubs while filling and avoid pushing water into the overflow. Even well-installed overflow drains can leak as the gaskets that seal the overflow will dry out over time and may no longer provide a watertight seal. Adequacy of shower waterproofing must also be disclaimed except where visible in accessible crawlspaces. Monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents less stress on plumbing than daily use. Please note that vacant homes present additional risk as it can be difficult to distinguish how the plumbing system will respond to daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
General Comments
Building Characteristics, Conditions and Limitations
Style of Home: Bungalow
Type of Building : Residential Single Family (1 story)
Approximate Square Footage: 1000
The approximate square footage listed here is listed as a courtesy and is based off of public records and disclosure. An evaluation of square footage of the buildings and property lines is beyond the scope of this inspection.
Approximate Year of Original Construction: 1930's
Unless the wiring in the building has been fully updated, this building likely has wiring that predates the late 1980's. Branch circuit wiring installed in buildings built prior to the late 1980s is typically rated for a maximum temperature of only 60 degrees Celsius. This includes non-metallic sheathed (Romex) wiring, and both BX and AC metal-clad flexible wiring. Knob and tube wiring, typically installed in homes built prior to 1950, may be rated for even lower maximum temperatures. Newer electric fixtures including lighting and fans typically require wiring rated for 90 degrees Celsius. Connecting newer fixtures to older, 60-degree-rated wiring is a potential fire hazard. Repairs for such conditions may involve replacing the last few feet of wiring to newer fixtures with new 90-degree-rated wire, and installing a junction box to join the old and new wiring. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if any such incompatible components are installed. Based on the age of this building, be aware that such components may be present.
In 1978, federal laws were past to prohibit use of lead and asbestos in building materials. Manufacturers of building materials were allowed to sell existing stocks of materials that were manufactured with lead and asbestos, so even buildings constructed as late as the mid-1980's could possibly contain lead or asbestos. Identification and testing for lead and asbestos and other environmental testing is beyond the scope of this home inspection. If you wish to seek additional information, I recommend contacting an environmental lab or industrial hygienist.
Attending the Inspection: Buyer and Buyer's Agent
Occupancy: Unoccupied, but staged with furniture
Weather during the inspection: Clear
Approximate temperature during the inspection: 60s
Ground/Soil surface conditions: Damp
For the Purposes of This Report, the Front Door Faces: South
This house was vacant / unoccupied at the time of inspection. Vacant and unoccupied houses present unique challenges for home inspection, especially the piping and wiring systems which have not be subject to regular use prior to the inspection. While these systems can be tested during inspection, this one-time test is different than regular use and it is difficult to know how these systems will respond to regular use after the inspection. For example, septic systems may initially function and then fail under regular daily use. Plumbing traps may operate with no signs of leaks and then let go when being actively used for a few days. Shower pans may only leak when someone is standing in the shower and taking a shower. Seals for plumbing fixtures can dry up and leak when not is use. Sewer lines with roots may allow water flow, but then fail when waste and tissue are flushed; it can take a few days for that to backup. Please understand we are trying our best to look for clues of past or existing problems to paint a realistic best-guess as to the reliability of these systems during inspection.
Grounds
Drainage and Lot Location
Clearance to Grade: Siding Too Close to Soils - Repair
Eliminate wood /soil contact to reduce the chances for rot and pest damage and repair any hidden rot as needed - see west side. Generally, a 6-inch clearance between soils and wood is recommended. This is often not realistic on older homes, but repairs should be made to get as much clearance as is possible and all contact with the soils should be eliminated.
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Driveways/Walkways/Flatwork
Driveway: Concrete
Walkways: Concrete
Patios: Concrete
Portions of the walkway flatwork around the home are settling creating trip hazards - see front walkway and back patio. Hire a qualified general contractor to further investigate and repair to eliminate all trip hazards and ensure a reliable walking surface.
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Exterior Stairs
The riser heights for the exterior front stairs are not even and are not to modern standards. This is a trip and safety hazard. The height of the tallest riser shall not exceed the smallest riser by more than 3/8th of an inch. Hire a licensed general contractor to further evaluate and repair.
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The entry stairs are also missing a graspable handrail for safety. This should be a round railing 1 and 1/4 inches - 2 inches in diameter. If the railing is not round it must have a finger groove that is 3/4 of an inch down from the tallest point of the rail. The graspable handrail should also be 1.5 inches from the wall. 2x material is not considered a graspable handrail. Have a qualified contractor build suitable railings to reduce the potential for falls.
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Fences
Present
Roof/Attic
Overview
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Roof Materials
Method of Roof Inspection: Walked on roof
Roof Style: Gable, Low slope
Approximate Age and Remaining Lifespan: New- 10+ years remaining
Incorrect flashing at plumbing vents. Cracked mastic present which could be related to poor support of plumbing pipes in the attic. Repair needed at this time and frequent maintenance may be needed.
Installation of a taller roof jack flashing would likely provide a more secure and maintenance free installation. This can be completed by a qualified roofing contractor.
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The roofing material on this building appears to be a recently installed dimensional or architectural grade shingle. These are often rated as 30-year shingles. In practice, as a roof assembly, I find these last closer to 18-22 years depending on the quality of the installation, the steepness of the roof and the amount of exposure. The installation appears neat and professional. Inquire with the HOA about any warranty information for this roof. Many professional roofing companies will offer limited workmanship warranties.
Gutters and Downspouts
Gutter and Downspout Materials: None
Roof systems lacks gutters and downspouts. Although not mandatory, it is highly recommended that these be installed to better manage runoff water. Lack of gutters generally results in water splashing back against the house which damages the surface over time. It also can cause over-saturation of the soil adjacent to the foundation leading to possible damage and structural settlement requiring costly repairs.
Attic Access
Crawled partial
Debris is present throughout the attic, mostly related to previous work on the roof. This material should be cleaned from the entire space as it may damage insulation over time and can promote pest activity.
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I did not crawl the crawl space for the attic where there was no ramp or safe way to access the space. Crawling in the V of trusses or on top of framing risks damaging thermal barriers and ceiling finishes and is not a safe way to access an attic. Most all of the area was however visible from accessible locations.
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Roof Framing and Sheathing
Rafters: 2x4
Sheathing: OSB
Damage was noted on roof framing visible in the attic which should be further evaluated by a pest control professional. Their inspection is more invasive and will be able to determine the extent of damage and any needed repair or replacement.
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Attic Insulation
Insulation Type: Fiberglass
Attic and Roof Cavity Ventilation
Attic Ventilation Method: Gable vents, Soffit vents
Attic and roof cavity ventilation is a frequently-misunderstood element of residential construction. All roof cavities are required to have ventilation. The general default standard is 1 sq. ft. to 150 sq. ft. of the attic area and ideally, this comes from at least 60% lower roof cavity ventilation and 40% upper. As a good guiding principle the most important elements for healthy attic spaces, which are traditionally insulated and ventilated are:
- Make sure the ceiling between the living space and the attic is airtight
- Ventilate consistently across the whole lower part of the roof cavity with low, intake soffit venting
- Upper roof cavity venting is less important and if over-installed can exacerbate air migration into the attic from the living space.
- Avoid power ventilators which can depressurize the attic and exacerbate air migration from the house into the attic.
For more information, please see: Link
The insulation in the attic appears to be blocking the soffit and gable end ventilation - This could reduce attic ventilation and lead to seasonal condensation problems and shortened lifespan of the roofing materials. I recommend removing insulation and installing cardboard baffles to allow air flow from soffit vents into attic spaces and roof cavities to ensure reliable performance from the roofing system.
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Garage Roof
Roof Materials
Method of Roof Inspection: Viewed at top of ladder
Roof Style: Gable
Roof Covering Materials: Three-tab composition shingle
Approximate Age and Remaining Lifespan: Newer however of poor and improper installation
Overlay Roof: Yes - Red Flags Noted
The roofing material on this garage is done in a three tab composition shingle. These shingles are often rated as 25 year shingles, though in practice, as a roof assembly, 15-18 years is more realistic depending on the amount of exposure and the pitch of the roof. The roof looks to be done as an overlay, meaning there are additional layers of shingles below the existing layer. In general, overlays are prone to less predictable service life. They often suffer from inadequate nailing and inadequate flashings due to installation procedures. This can lead to premature leaks, nail pops, wind damage and failure. Overlay roofs also tend to break down more quickly as well due to heat build-up. One rule of thumb is to cut the useful service life of the shingle in half when installed as an overlay. During inspection today, multiple defects and red flags were found. Numerous defects and red flags were noted on this installation. I recommend additional inspection of this roof by a qualified roofing contractor. Implement repairs or replacement as recommended to ensure reliable performance. Specific examples of red flags noted today include:
- Roof is in excess of the allowable number of coverings
- Roof lacks required interlayment between successive layers.
- Flashings are loose and of poor installation
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Gutters and Downspouts
Gutter and Downspout Materials: None
Roof systems lacks gutters and downspouts. Although not mandatory, it is highly recommended that these be installed to better manage runoff water. Lack of gutters generally results in water splashing back against the house which damages the surface over time. It also can cause over-saturation of the soil adjacent to the foundation leading to possible damage and structural settlement requiring costly repairs.
Attic Access
No access
No attic access was found during inspection. This means the attic framing, sheathing, ventilation, insulation, wiring, fan terminations could not be inspected. I recommend installing an access and having the attic re-inspected. Standards recommend an access opening of 30 inches x 22 inches when there is greater than 30 sq/ft of attic space.
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Exterior/Garage
Siding and Trim
Trim Material: Wood, Fiber cement
Siding Material: Wood
Holes were noted in the siding system of both the house and garage that require sealing to prevent water and air infiltration and potential paths for insect or rodent entry. Seal and paint as needed to block these openings.
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Many of the door and windows were installed without the use of flashings. Metal flashing which is properly integrated with the siding is an important waterproofing feature and improper or missing installation can result in water damage to both visible and hidden locations within the walls. Although evidence of water damage was not seen, it may be present and improvements are recommended by a qualified siding installer to provide a long lasting installation.
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Localized paint failure was noted at the exterior see especially where exposed to the weather. Implement localized painting as needed.
Portions of siding and trim were not primed and painted which will leave them prone to water damage and deterioration.
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Some of the penetrations in the siding do not have adequate mounting blocks. For penetrations in the building envelope such as hose bibs and holes 1½ inch diameter or larger, such as dryer vents, a block shall be installed around the point of penetration. Blocking should be a minimum 3 in.. radius greater than the radius of the penetration. To install a block around an existing penetration, it may be necessary to cut the block into two pieces. In this case, weather-cut the trim to fit it into place. Install flashing over the top of the trim block. Penetrations through a building envelope are made to accommodate needs such as hose bibs, dryer and furnace vents, electrical conduit, etc. It is important to restore the weather-resistant barrier of the home after cutting a hole for the penetration.
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Eaves
The rafters around the roof need to be cleaned and painted and repaired of any localized wood decay if discovered. Some of this damage seen could be related to insect activity and should be evaluated by a pest control professional.
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Exterior Doors
Solid core
The door glazing did not appear to be safety glass. No logo or tempered bug was visible. All glazing greater than 3 inches in exterior doors should be safety glass. Updating with tempered or laminated glass is recommended for improved safety.
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Some of the doors rub against their jambs and should be trimmed for ease of use.
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Strike plate is missing on back exit door. Install for added security and to prevent the door latch from damaging the finish.
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Exterior Window Frames
Wood
Some of the wood sash windows have been repaired and replaced in areas. Most are functional however one located in the back bedroom is smaller than the window opening and falls free when operating. Repair needed as this can result in damage or injury due to breaking glass. Window can likely be widened, or larger parting bead be installed, by a qualified carpenter.
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Many of the wood windows in this home are exposed to the weather and will require regular painting and sealing maintenance to preserve the windows and prevent decay. The windows were in satisfactory condition at the time of this inspection. OI checked the windows for wood decay and damaged during inspection.
Decks, Balconies and Porches
Present
To see a prescriptive guide for residential wood deck construction click this link:
Deck Structure: Non-treated lumber
Deck Ledger Board: Non-standard
Guardrail: Standard
The deck ledger board has not been bolted to the home in accordance with standards. This risks deck failure as the ledger attachment to the house can pull free. I recommend installing an attachment system that conforms to recommended minimum standards in the American Wood Council Prescriptive Wood Residential Deck Construction Guide. See starting on page 14 of this guide.
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The deck surface was installed without gaps between the boards. A gap is needed to allow for expansion and contraction with seasonal changes and also to prevent water from being trapped between boards which will, over time, result in water damage and a shortened lifespan of the materials.
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The framing on this deck is not of a material which is naturally resistant to rot and has not been painted or treated. Ideally exterior carpentry would be of a material such as redwood or pressure treated lumber. At a minimum, it is recommended that any of this type of wood present be painted or treated to help ensure a longer lasting installation. Note that this will involve removal of the deck surface .
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Garage
Detached
Garage Slab: Large Cracks Noted in Slab Not Foundation
Cracking in both the floor slab and walls are indication of settlement of the structure. Both walls and floor have been recently refinished which could be concealing more serious damage. It is recommended that these conditions be further evaluated by a qualified contractor to determine what improvements can be achieved as well as cost.
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The garage slab and surrounding paving are not sloped to drain. This could allow water to get trapped in the garage or wall interior. Typically, garage slabs are sloped to drain out the front door. There is not much that can be done about this at this time short of removing and re-pouring the slab. This will not be cost effective unless use of this space demands it.
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Electrical
Meter located at back right corner.
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Electric Service Voltage Tested
Service Voltage: 120/240
Electric Service
Service Entrance: Above Ground
Meter Base Amperage: 200
Service Equipment
Main Panel Amperage: 200 amps
This panel lacks AFCI circuit breakers at required locations. These are a more advanced type of circuit breaker and have been required to be installed on certain circuits in homes since 2005. More recently, most all interior circuits have required AFCI protection. Client is advised to have a qualified electrician conduct further evaluation and install these types of breakers where needed and it is suggested that research be done to verify that this panel upgrade was made with approval from the local building department.
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Branch Wiring
Wire Material: Copper, Multi-strand Copper, Wiring is mostly concealed and evaluation is limited to visible and accessible portions of the structure such as the attic and crawlspace.
Wiring Method: Non-metallic sheathed cable
The open electrical junction boxes need to be covered for improved safety - see attic. This is as simple as installing a cover plate over the box to protect the wiring. Sometimes, an extension ring is needed if finishes are covering the box. Repair as needed for improved safety.
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Surface run non-metallic sheathed cable was noted at the exterior of the house. The cable is subject to physical damage and should be protected. Have this wiring installed within conduit or protected otherwise as recommended by a qualified electrician.
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Receptacles and Fixtures
Inspection Method: Representative Testing
Electric Receptacles: Three wire receptacles
A representative sampling of receptacles were tested. Those checked showed as being properly wired.
GFCI protected receptacles are not installed at all locations required. See laundry room here. Have a qualified electrician install as these are a presently required safety feature.
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Lighting and Switches
Inspection Method: Representative Testing
A representative sampling of light fixtures were operated. Those tested were functional.
Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm Systems
CO Alarms Noted:
Outside all Sleeping AreasOn Main Floor
On 2nd FloorIn BasementOn 3rd FloorIn Bonus Room
Smoke Alarms Noted:On Main FloorOn 2nd FloorIn BasementOn 3rd FloorIn All BedroomsIn Bonus Room
Smoke detectors and carbon monoxide alarms are not operated as a part of a home inspection. They are only noted as to their presence in appropriate locations. These are generally tested by a retro-fitter as a part of the real estate transfer process and any questions regarding these devices will likely be discussed in their report.
Electrical Grounding System
Present - Could Not Confirm
During a home or property inspection, every effort is made to inspect the visible components of the electrical system grounding. The grounding system is critical for safely discharging electrical surges, especially in the case of lightning strikes. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of the grounding system as much of the system is not visible and there are not practical tests one can perform in the way we can test a furnace or a plumbing fixture. However, there are many things that can lead me to recommend further evaluation of the grounding system by a licensed electrical contractor and they will be documented in the observations below if discovered.
Electrical Bonding System
Bonding Noted By Water Heater, Bonding Noted on Water Pipes
Bonding connections were noted on the water pipes and gas pip at the water heater.
Plumbing
Water Service Supply
Pipe Material: Copper, Most all of the supply line from the meter to the house is beneath ground and not able to be seen. There were no evidence of defects noted however inspector cannot fully comment on areas which are not able to be seen.
Water Supply: Public water
Pressure Reducing Valve: Present
This house has a pressure reducing valve to control high water pressure in the street.
When static water pressure exceeds 80 PSI, a pressure reducing valve is recommended to prevent accidental damage to the plumbing system. A pressure regulator is present however water pressure is too high - it measured at roughly 83 psi in the front hose bib. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair high water pressure as needed. This is likely as simple as adjustment of the installed regulator.
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Distribution Pipe
Limitations: Evaluation of the plumbing system is limited to visible portions. Inspector cannot comment on areas hidden from view such as beneath ground or concealed within the structure.
Supply Pipe Materials: Copper
Functional Flow: Average
Angle Stops Testing Note
Angle stops are the shut offs located below plumbing fixtures such as sinks and toilets. These are designed so that water can be shut off locally to a fixture without shutting off the water to the entire house so that localized fixtures can be serviced and repaired or replaced. Home inspectors do NOT test angle stops during inspection as there is a risk of leakage which could cause damage to the home.
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Waste Pipe and Discharge
Discharge Type: Unknown, Comments on waste piping are limited to visible locations such as accessible portions of a crawlspace, attic, and at individual fixtures within the dwelling.
Waste and Vent Pipe Materials: ABS plastic
It was not apparent or disclosed, if this house is on a public sewer connection or on a private on-site septic system. I recommend inquiring with the seller for additional inspection and have the system inspected or video-scoped as desired to ensure reliable performance from this important system. Please note that evaluation of sewer and septic connections are beyond the scope of this home inspection.
ABS piping was not properly assembled at some locations and will be prone to failure and leaks. Pipes not fully inserted into fitting hubs are weak connections which will likely break with use of the system. Have a qualified plumbing contractor conduct further evaluation and repair where needed.
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The waste pipe has inadequate support. ABS and PVC type plastic pipe should be should be supported every 4 feet and where piping attaches to fixture traps. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair. This is an important repair to preform ASAP as the sagging pipes could collapse and fail. Repair will not be expensive but should be done right away.
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ABS piping is supported by metal straps at some locations which is not allowable by industry standards. Metal straps can damage this plastic pipe over time resulting in leaks. Have a qualified plumbing contractor replace where needed.
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Cleanouts located in walkway at right side yard and near sidewalk in front yard.
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Water Heaters
System Type: Tankless
Age: 2018
Energy Source: Gas
Temperature Pressure Relief Value: Present - Not Tested
The temperature and pressure relief valve is arguably one of the most important safety devices in your house. Should the thermostats fail inside your water heater, the TPRV allows excess pressure to "blow off," which will prevent catastrophic build up of temperature and pressure which can make water heaters explosive. I do not test the "blow off valve" during inspection as there is a risk it could stick open and testing could cause the need for a repair. Manufacturers of these relief valves recommend that these be tested annually. You need to decide for yourself if this is the type of annual testing you wish to perform.
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Bracing : Present
Located at the right side exterior.
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Exterior Hose Bibs
Operational based on representative sampling.
Laundry and Additional Plumbing
Laundry Hookups
Laundry appliances are not included as a part of this inspection as they are not considered to be permanently installed. Comments here are only made in relation to location and utility connections.
Irrigation
An exterior irrigation system was noted for this home. Sprinkler systems are beyond the scope of this inspection. When testing the system, be sure sprinkler heads are adjusted so the system is not watering the side of the house. Hire a specialist to further evaluate this system as desired.
Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation
Heating Element
Energy Source: Natural gas
Heating Method: Gas forced air furnace
This house has a gas forced air furnace. A critical component to all combustion equipment like this is the heat exchanger. This is the welded clam-shell piece of metal inside the furnace that contains the products of combustion so that moisture, carbon monoxide and other products of combustion do not mix with interior air and get safely vented to the exterior. Heat exchangers on modern furnaces have an average life expectancy of 15-20 years. Unfortunately, heat exchangers are buried inside of heating equipment; they are not visible and specifically excluded from a home inspection.
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Manufacturer: Carrier
Capacity: 80,000 btu's
Age: New
The heating equipment does not have an adequate floor / ramp for servicing and accessing the equipment. The front of the heating equipment must have a 30 inch clearance so the appliance can be serviced safely and the catwalk accessing the furnace should be 24 inches wide. Improve / repair access to this furnace for improved safety in servicing the furnace.
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A hole is present in the blower compartment on the furnace cabinet. This should be sealed to prevent air from the attic from being drawn into the home.
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Cooling
Manufacturer: Carrier
System Type: Split system
Size: 4 Tons
Energy Source: Electric
Age: New
The air conditioning system appears to be over capacity considering the square footage of this home. This can result in poor and improper operation as excess cooling capacity results in the system "short cycling" which refers to a condition where, due to excessively cold temperatures produced, it operates for short periods of time and very often. It will not properly remove moisture from the interior air as needed and frequent starts and stops will drastically shorten the lifespan of the compressor. Sizing an air conditioner properly to a structure requires specific engineering and it is recommended that it be verified that this was completed. If not available, a qualified HVAC contractor should be contacted to conduct further evaluation at this time.
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Air Filters
Filtration Systems: Disposable
Your heating and cooling system has disposable air filters installed. These should be changed quarterly or more to ensure proper air flow at the furnace. Be sure to install the filters with the arrows pointing in the same direction as the air flow in the furnace.
Heating and Cooling Distribution Systems
Heat Source in Each Room: Present, Visibility of ductwork is limited to accessible portions of any attic and crawlspace present. Concealed areas cannot be commented on however airflow appears sufficient and no significant defects are assumed.
Distribution Method: Forced Air / Ducts
Mechanical Ventilation Systems
Bath Fan Ducting: Ducted to exterior
Kitchen Fan Ducting: Ducted to exterior
Gas
Gas Meter
Present, Located beneath dwelling, An automatic seismic shutoff valve is installed.
Gas meter may be undersized considering the recent HVAC upgrades as well as installation of a tankless water heater. Recommend that this be further evaluated by the supplying utility company as they can provide a larger meter if required.
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Gas, Propane and Oil Piping
Gas Piping Materials Noted: Steel
Structure and Basement
Foundation
% of Foundation Not Visible: 20%
Evidence of Seismic Protection: None Found
Building Configuration: Crawl space
Foundation Description: Poured concrete
Minor to moderate cracks were noted in the poured concrete foundation. The purpose of the foundation is to connect the weight of the building to well-compacted soils below the house so that the house does not move or settle. Concrete cracking can indicate poorly compacted soils below the house which could require a repair, but small cracks can also be a sign of routine concrete shrinkage. It is not possible to determine or verify the cause of these cracks during a visual inspection. I recommend additional inspection of this structure by a qualified foundation contractor or structural engineer to determine the cost and urgency of repairs to prevent on-going settlement. The hope on older buildings is that poorly compacted soils below the foundation are now compacted by the weight of the building and no additional movement will occur. One of the better ways to prevent on-going settlement in buildings is to keep the soils around the house as dry as possible. Additional inspection by a specialist is needed to determine if repairs are needed to prevent additional movement or not. Please note that the scope and urgency of repairs for conditions like this can differ between contractors and you may want to seek more than one additional opinion.
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Portions of the concrete footing have been faced over with a layer of concrete. When this is done, there is typically damage beneath and the new facing will not add any significant amount of strength. This should be further evaluated by a foundation specialist to determine what degree of improvements may be needed as well as cost.
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Floor, Wall and Ceiling Framing
Wall Framing: Not visible
Wall Sheathing: Not visible
Floor Framing: Visible
Sub-Floor Material: Diagonal boards, typically 1x6
Ceiling Framing: Partly visible
Evidence of structural modification to the building was noted. Inquire with the seller if permits were obtained for this work and / or engineering was done. No red flags to indicate failure were noted at the time of inspection, however, some of the framing may be concealed from view and an evaluation of structural adequacy is beyond the scope of this inspection.
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Crawl Space
Crawl Space Access
Method of Inspection: Crawled
During inspection of the crawl space, every effort is made to inspect the entire space. Visual inspection of crawl spaces is difficult and limited as access is often restricted by pipes, ducts and sub-floor insulation as well as limited clearances.
Crawl Space Ventilation
Ventilation Method: Exterior wall vents
The screens for the crawl space vents are missing in areas and could allow animal entry. Use 1/4 inch wire mesh screen and be sure all openings are well sealed to prevent rodent entry. Do not apply multiple layers of screen as this will restrict air flow.
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Posts and Footings
Many of the footings for the posts that are picking up floor frame beams are not adequately lifting the wood above grade. As a result many of the posts are below grade and vulnerable to wood destroying organisms. This should be repaired to ensure reliable performance from these posts and to eliminate a condition conducive to wood destroying organisms. Hire a qualified general contractor to further investigate and repair.
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Moisture Conditions
Significant water noted during inspection
Moderate water was noted in the crawl space. This condition may change seasonally, or with rain intensity. Moisture in crawl spaces can lead to interior water damage, structural settlement and wood destroying organisms. Hire a drainage specialist or qualified contractor to further evaluate and correct this condition. Also see the Drainage section of this report for observations regarding exterior drainage repairs that may be recommended.
Water in the third photo shown is likely due to broken irrigation piping which passes from the front of the house to the back through the crawlspace .
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Interior
Floors and Floor Materials
Floor Materials: Hardwood, Carpet
Floor Settlement: Minor (No Red Flags - Recent Remodel)
Settlement was noted in the floor frame system during inspection today. I could not find red flags to indicate recent movement but with the recent remodel work it is possible that prior conditions have been concealed. Inquire with the seller regarding any history of structural settlement. The hope on older buildings like this is that poorly compacted soils have now compacted with the weight of the building and wood has now dried out and shrunk and settlement will have stopped. This is impossible to predict during a one time visual inspection. Additional inspection by a qualified general contractor or structural engineer is needed to determine a scope and urgency for repair.
Walls, Ceilings, Trim and Closets
Wall and Ceiling Materials: Plaster
The interior of this home was recently repainted. Defects such as cracking and staining on walls provides clues to other conditions which may be still be present however are not evident at this time.
Wall Insulation and Air Bypass
Wall Insulation: Not Visible
Interior Doors
The door to the north bedroom and one of the bathrooms is not latching and requires adjustment so the doors latch closed.
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Windows
Window Glazing: Single pane
Interior Window Frame: Wood
Window Styles: Single hung
Visible water staining was seen on the interior side of one of the windows. This is indication of a need for exterior waterproofing and refinishing. These repairs should be scheduled soon to prevent more serious damage from occurring.
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Many of the windows are painted shut and are not performing as intended. Recommend cutting open all stuck windows and implementing repairs to sash weights as needed to ensure reliable window performance.
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Kitchen
Overview
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Sinks and Faucets
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Cabinets and Countertops
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Appliances
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General Kitchen Condition
Standard
Master Bathroom
Oveview
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Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Use caulking to seal between the backsplash and sink behind the master bath sink / countertop. Also where countertop meets splash wall.
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The faucet to the master bathroom sink is loose and requires repair.
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Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Tested, Shower pans here and in any other bathrooms are not flood tested as a part of this inspection.
Low water flow was observed from this shower head. In a recently remodeled home, this is often due to one of two possible reasons. Often debris is present in the valve or shower head or the valve is improperly installed. Have a qualified plumber correct.
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Bathroom Ventilation
Type: Fan and window
General Bath Condition
Standard
During inspection today, all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms were operated. Bathtub overflow drains are not tested as this risks damaging finishes around the tub. Monitor tubs while filling and avoid pushing water into the overflow. Even well-installed overflow drains can leak as the gaskets that seal the overflow will dry out over time and may no longer provide a watertight seal. Adequacy of shower waterproofing must also be disclaimed except where visible in accessible crawlspaces. Monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents less stress on plumbing than daily use. Please note that vacant homes present additional risk as it can be difficult to distinguish how the plumbing system will respond to daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
Hall Bathroom
Overview
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Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
Caulking is needed where shower wall tile meets vinyl window framing. It is unlikely that shower waterproofing extends to the exterior of the house and gaps present at this location can result in water damage to the wall interior. This should be expected to be a maintenance item and periodic replacement of caulking will be needed.
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Bathroom Ventilation
Type: Fan and window
General Bath Condition
Standard
Checking Out Procedure
Check Out List
Oven:Off
Lights:OffClient and Realtor Still In HouseClient Still in HouseRealtor Still in House
Heating and Cooling:Restored to Pre-inspection temperatures
Appliances:Off / finishing cycle
Invoice -- Residential
Highland Park
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Signed Contracts
Diligence Inspections
Inspected by Ryan Horton
