Repairs

• G-2 Grounds:

  Downspouts are discharging adjacent to the foundation. This can cause foundation settlement or basement moisture problems. Recommend installation of downspout extensions or subterranean drainage to divert water away from the structure.

• G-3 Grounds:

  The grade of the yard is slopping toward the building - see north side. Standards recommend a quarter inch / foot slope away from the building or better. Recommend improvements to help ensure against water saturation against the foundation which can result in structural settlement as well as other problems.

• G-6 Grounds:

  Mortar joints between bricks on south walkway are deteriorated. Recommend repair at this time to prevent more serious damage from occurring. Continued movement can also result in an unstable or uneven surface which may be a trip hazard.

• G-8 Grounds:

  Gate with access to back yard is not able to be locked. Post has moved as it is attached to a masonry wall which has suffered some degree of settlement. Due to the presence of the water feature, it is recommended that this repair be made as soon as possible to help avoid the possibility of a drowning hazard.

• RA-3 Roof/Attic:

  The roof on this building is done using a clay tile roofing system that appears to require repair in areas and tune-up work in others. These are very durable tiles that can last for nearly 100 years but often maintenance and on-going tune-ups are needed to get such a long service life and much depends on how the roof was installed. Hire a licensed roofing contractor who specializes in tile roofs to further evaluate and repair / tune up this roof as recommended. Please note, I did not walk on this portion of the roof as this risks damaging roofing tiles - this limited inspection to visible locations from accessible portions of rolled composition roof and additional defects may be present which were not visible.

• RA-4 Roof/Attic:

  Patching visible on areas of rolled composition roofing is indication of past problems with water entry. Be aware that these will likely be in need of frequent maintenance and are more likely to leak again in the future. Recommend a more permanent repair be completed by a qualified roofing contractor.

• RA-5 Roof/Attic:

  Roof flashings are used to keep a roofing system water proof where the roofing material starts, stops, changes direction or is penetrated. During inspection, we look for standard flashing techniques that could be considered normal or standard in our region. Damaged, incomplete or non-standard flashings can be a sign of an older or less reliable roofing system and may require repair. Several instances of non standard flashing installation are noted beneath.

  1. Flashing would ideally have an additional layer of rolled composition roofing installed over the top. Present installation is dependent on brushed on mastic which will not provide a reliable long lasting installation.
  2. Flashing beneath air conditioning condenser platform is of non standard installation and the weight of the condenser may damage the roof surface.
  3. Counter flashing at roof to wall connections is not integrated with the siding material and will require frequent maintenance to remain water tight. Improvements recommended otherwise frequent maintenance will be needed.
• RA-6 Roof/Attic:

  Roof to wall connections between garage and main structure lack proper flashing and are of improper installation. Have a qualified roofing contractor conduct further evaluation and correct as needed.

  Cracked and displaced clay tile noted along front of structure. Repairs needed to prevent water entry and damage.

• RA-8 Roof/Attic:

  A rain cap and spark arrestor is recommended for the chimney flue to prevent water damage inside the flue, to reduce risks of bird and inspect entry into the flue and to reduce risks from sparks exiting the flue.

• RA-10 Roof/Attic:

  I recommend having a cricket flashing installed for this chimney to divert water around the chimney. The current installation is vulnerable to leaks as the entire roof drains toward the chimney. Please note that modern standards require chimney cricket flashings when the chimney is at the bottom of a roof and more than 30 inches wide.

• RA-12 Roof/Attic:

  One of the downspouts over the back patio from the upstairs balcony is missing and requires immediate replacement to insure proper control of roof runoff and prevent water damage to the home.

• EG-1 Exterior/Garage:

  Localized repairs are needed to the exterior trim. This is important for the siding system to perform as intended. Hire a qualified contactor to further evaluate and repair the exterior trim here.

  Some of this damage should also be evaluated by a pest control professional. Their inspection would determine the extent of repairs needed as well as cost.

• EG-2 Exterior/Garage:

  Localized paint failure was noted at the exterior and paint is missing in areas. Implement localized painting as needed.

• EG-3 Exterior/Garage:

  Localized siding repairs are needed to the exterior. Hire a licensed general contractor to further evaluate and repair all damaged siding as needed. Examples of observations noted during inspection include:

  1. Gaps where stucco meets framing,
  2. holes in siding which will allow water entry.
• EG-4 Exterior/Garage:

  Loose railing noted at back patio which can allow water entry to wall interior. Re secure and waterproof fastening point as needed.

• EG-8 Exterior/Garage:

  The dead bolt for the exterior door from the kitchen to the deck is opened with a key rather than a thumb-toggle. This can inhibit easy fire egress. Switch this deadbolt with a thumb-toggle dead bolt for improved safety and fire egress. This is required for the main egress door, but recommended for all doors.

• E-3 Electrical:

  Inadequate labeling of the electrical sub-panel circuit breakers was noted during inspection - I can no longer read most of the labels. This should be corrected for improved safety.

• E-6 Electrical:

  Inadequate labeling of the electrical sub-panel circuit breakers was noted during inspection. This should be corrected for improved safety.

• E-7 Electrical:

  The wiring to the sub-panel requires repair. This is a modern 4-wire feed. The neutrals should be on a floating bus bar and should be separated from the equipment grounds to eliminate stray voltage. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and repair this condition.

• E-8 Electrical:

  Hire a licensed electrician to correct the double lugged conductors in the electric panel - this is when two conductors share the same lug- see neutral bars. Double lugged conductors risk poorly protected conductors that are more vulnerable to arcing and overheating. This requires additional evaluation by an electrician.

• E-11 Electrical:

  The open electrical junction boxes need to be covered for improved safety - see attic. Also noted as missing are bushing clamps on some of the light fixtures. Have a qualified electrician go through the system and make the needed repairs.

• E-12 Electrical:

  The non-metallic sheathed cable is poorly supported and requires staples or hangers for additional support and strain relief - see attic. This type of wiring should be supported every 4 feet and within 2 feet of junction boxes.

• E-13 Electrical:

  Surface run non-metallic sheathed cable was noted at the exterior of the house. The cable is subject to physical damage and should be protected within conduit.

• E-15 Electrical:

  Hire a licensed electrician to eliminate all open grounds in both house and garage. This is a common condition in older buildings (prior to 1962) where three prong receptacles have been installed on an older two wire system. This creates a safety hazard as it is false advertising; appliances that rely on an equipment ground to discharge a fault can be plugged into ungrounded circuits. This disables the important safety feature of an equipment ground. Proper repair can include:

  • Running an equipment grounding conductor or a new three-wire circuit
  • Filling the third prong of the receptacle or restoring a two-prong receptacle or
  • Installing GFCI protection for this circuit and labeling the open ground receptacles

  If GFCI protection is used, the outlets on this circuit should be labeled so it is clear they are protected. Examples of locations where open grounds were found include:

• E-17 Electrical:

  No electric receptacle was found in the kitchen island. An electric receptacle is required in this location.

• P-4 Plumbing:

  A leak was noted at the main water shut off. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair.

• P-7 Plumbing:

  Dielectric fittings should be used where galvanized steel pipes meet copper pipes - see for example below in the crawlspace. Install proper unions to prevent electrolysis and leaks.

• P-9 Plumbing:

  Low water flow noted from some interior fixtures and older galvanized piping was seen coming from the wall in the second floor hall bathroom as well as downstairs powder room. Further evidence that this older material is at the end of its serviceable life.

• P-11 Plumbing:

  The waste pipe venting system is not correctly terminated above the roof line. Proper venting is important for the waste piping system to drain properly and reliably. Plumbing vents should be located at least:

  • 6 inches above the roof
  • 12 in. horizontally from adjacent vertical surfaces
  • 7 ft. above roof used as deck
  • 7 ft. above roof if within 10 ft. horizontally of a roof deck
  • 3 Feet (UPC) above openings within 10 ft. of the vent termination

  Repair as recommended by a licensed plumbing contractor.

• P-14 Plumbing:

  Waste pipe venting was terminating in the attic. This is a safety hazard that can allow sewer gas and moisture to accumulate in the attic. This vent needs to be run through the roof to the exterior. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair and note that repairs will need to be coordinated with a roofing contractor to ensure transition through the roof is correctly flashed to prevent leaks.

• P-18 Plumbing:

  The discharge tube relief valve for the water heater was leaking. Sometimes this can be fixed by blowing off the discharge tube but this is risky as it can get stuck open and necessitate replacement. Blowing off the discharge tube is not done during a home inspection as this risks damaging this safety device. There could be other more critical safety reasons that this is leaking. Have this temperature and pressure relief valve further evaluated and repaired as recommended by a licensed plumbing contractor.

• P-19 Plumbing:

  Inquire with the seller to make sure a flue liner was run for inside the chimney for the gas water heaters. I did not see one sticking out the cap of the masonry chimney. Please note that a liner is required for gas appliances vented into masonry chimneys when three sides of the chimney are exposed to the weather. This is because they can be cold in winter and allow products of combustion to condense inside the chimney. This can damage older masonry chimneys. If there is no additional information, have this further evaluated by a qualified plumbing contractor and repaired as recommended.

• LAP-4 Laundry and Additional Plumbing:

  The clothes dryer is exhausting out of the roof. This is not a desirable installation as it can be difficult to access the exhaust duct for cleaning and inspection. Dryer lint is flammable and a fire hazard when it accumulates. If the exhaust duct has not been cleaned and inspected in the last year, I recommend a routine servicing to ensure safe and reliable performance. When exhaust ducts pass through unconditioned spaces, such as attics, the ducts should be insulated.

• LAP-6 Laundry and Additional Plumbing:

  Pump is not connected to a GFCI protected circuit as required by current standards. Improvements needed to ensure safe operation of the system.

• HCFV-5 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

  The heating system does not have an adequate working clearance. A 30" working clearance and solid platform is needed in front of this furnace.

• HCFV-6 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

  Exhaust and intake vent piping are too close together and the exhaust pipe may be too close to the exterior grade to function properly. Exhaust piping also does not appear to meet minimum required clearance from an operable window which allows for the possibility of carbon monoxide entering the dwelling. Have a qualified HVAC technician further evaluate to determine the best means of correction.

• HCFV-9 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

  Interior evaporator coil lacks a necessary P trap on the condensate line. A p trap is needed to prevent fumes or stagnant water downstream from entering the interior of the system.

• HCFV-11 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

  The insulation for the refrigerant lines for the AC is damaged and requires repair. This should be done to ensure reliable and efficient performance from this unit. Damage within the building such as shown here can also result in condensate buildup which will drip onto the structure beneath and will likely result in eventual water damage.

• HCFV-12 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

  The ductwork for the bathroom fans is disconnected in the attic and requires repair to ensure proper performance. This can cause condensation during cold weather and could damage the attic building materials. Repair to ensure proper discharge of air to the exterior and be sure ductwork is insulated to R-8 or better to reduce risks of seasonal condensation.

• HCFV-14 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

  Missing mortar and loose brick was noted in the master bedroom fireplace firebox. This can make the fireplace unsafe for fires. Hire a mason or chimney sweep to further evaluate this condition and repair as needed to ensure safe and reliable performance from the fireplace. Firebox repairs need to be made using firebrick and proper refractory mortars designed for high temperatures.

• FSD-3 Fuel Storage and Distribution:

  The CSST gas pipe in the attic space is poorly supported. This pipe typically requires support or hangers every 4′ for 3/8″ pipe, every 6′ for 1/2″, and every 8′ for anything larger, though this specification is manufacturer specific. There are also specific brackets required where CSST transitions to rigid gas pipe or appliance connectors. Have this pipe further evaluated and properly supported to meet manufactures' specifications.

• FSD-4 Fuel Storage and Distribution:

  CSST jacket may be trimmed too far back from connectors at some visible locations. Recommend further evaluation by a qualified installer.

• FSD-5 Fuel Storage and Distribution:

  Improper sediment trap configuration (upside down) was found for the gas pipe at the gas furnace in the attic. Sediment traps are designed to prevent fouling of gas equipment by allowing sediment to fall out of the gas supply. Have this further evaluated and repaired as recommended by a qualified plumber. Sediment traps are required at all automatically controlled gas appliances.

• SB-3 Structure and Basement:

  Deterioration noted to older cast concrete piers and evidence of settlement was noted on some. Piers are out of level and shims have been placed between the masonry and framing connected. Recommend further evaluation by a foundation specialist to determine what degree of repair or replacement may be needed as well as cost.

• I-2 Interior:

  Cupping hardwood floors were noted adjacent to the downstairs powder room. This indicates likely prior leakage. Wood is sound but cupped. This could be difficult to repair cosmetically without re-finishing all the floors. Consult with a hardwood flooring specialist to further evaluate and repair as desired. At the moment this appears to be a cosmetic defect.

• I-3 Interior:

  Water stains or damage were noted on the ceiling in the upper and lower hallway. Inquire with the seller for any history of prior leakage to get a better sense if repairs may be needed to prevent another leak. Many water leaks are intermittent or related to specific weather conditions or occupant behavior; it is impossible for us to distinguish these conditions during a one-time inspection or to know if repairs could be needed to prevent future leaks. Repair damaged finishes and paint as needed for a proper cosmetic appearance and implement additional repairs as needed to prevent future leaks.

• I-4 Interior:

  Fairly routine light plaster cracks were noted in walls and ceilings. This is characteristic of old plaster walls and does not require repair unless the keys that bond the plaster to the lath fail. Light surface cracking can be repaired prior to painting as desired. When larger problems develop with how the plaster is bonding to the lath, more extensive repairs can be needed.

• I-6 Interior:

  Several door openings are showing signs of structural settlement in the home. See the Structure section of this report for more information regarding the structure.

• I-7 Interior:

  Several broken window panes were noted in various rooms. This requires glazing replacement to repair.

• I-8 Interior:

  One of the windows is not able to be latched in the closed and locked position. Frame appears to have excessive paint preventing full closure.

• I-9 Interior:

  Many of the built in pull down windows screens are damaged and inoperable. Repair of these, if their use is desired, may be invasive and costly.

• K-2 Kitchen:

  Refrigerator door face rubs against cabinetry and needs adjustment to prevent damage to the finishes.

• K-3 Kitchen:

  Loose fasteners noted on some of the cabinetry. Secure as needed.

• MB1-2 Master Bathroom:

  Overall poor installation of drain piping noted beneath sink. Issues were noted such as:

  • Leakage noted from connection to basin.
  • S trap configuration which is not in accordance with industry standards.
  • Improper use of corrugated material. Only smooth walled pipe is allowable.
  • Fittings used not intended for drainage applications. Only permitted for venting.
• MB1-3 Master Bathroom:

  The backsplash behind the master bathroom sink is not adequately sealed to the countertop and could allow water to get behind the countertop. Also noted was poor caulking where sink meets countertop. Seal with caulking.

• MB1-4 Master Bathroom:

  The loose toilet in the master bath needs to be reset and the wax ring and flange should be replaced to prevent hidden plumbing leaks. This is a simple job unless the bolts that fasten the toilet also require repair. Sometimes, loose toilets can even be shimmed for a tight and proper seal by qualified plumbers and sometimes simply caulking can help. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair.

• MB1-5 Master Bathroom:

  Use sanded caulking that matches grout to seal up cracking inside corners at tile.

• MB1-6 Master Bathroom:

  The mixing valve in the bath shower / tub is installed so that hot and cold are backwards. This can lead to confusion when turning on and off the water and should be repaired.

  It was also noted that the valve will not be able to be easily operated without standing in the stream of water. Consider improvements.

• SUB-2 Second Upstairs Bathroom:

  Use caulking to seal between the backsplash and sink behind the family bath sink / countertop.

• SUB-3 Second Upstairs Bathroom:

  Corrugated waste pipe was used to drain the sinks in the Jack and Jill bathroom. This in an unlisted plumbing product. Use smooth wall pipe only. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair as needed.

• SUB-4 Second Upstairs Bathroom:

  Low water flow noted from the shower head. Could be due to an obstruction in a filter screen or valve internal. Common with new construction and remodel. Have a qualified plumber correct.

• PB-2 Powder Bathroom:

  Low water flow observed from the hot water side of the faucet. Could be related to the presence of older galvanized piping further discussed in the Plumbing section of this report.

• CS-2 Crawl Space:

  Crawl space vents are currently blocked in places at the exterior. Implement repairs as needed to ensure vents are unobstructed. Use 1/4 inch wire mesh screen to seal as needed. Avoid multiple layers of screen and louvered vents as these restrict air flow. If needed, use cardboard baffles to keep sub-floor insulation away from the vents.