Repairs

• G-1 Grounds:

  Eliminate wood /soil contact to reduce the chances for rot and pest damage and repair any hidden rot as needed - see north side. Generally, a 6-inch clearance between soils and wood is recommended. This is often not realistic on older homes, but repairs should be made to get as much clearance as is possible and all contact with the soils should be eliminated.

• G-2 Grounds:

  The grade of the yard is slopping toward the building - see southwest corner. Standards recommend a quarter inch / foot slope away from the building or better to prevent water draining toward the house. Over time, negative grading, as this is often called, can lead to moisture and even structural problems with the house. Have this repaired as feasible by a qualified contractor. Often, a swale is used to create a low point away from the house into which water can be diverted away from and around the building.

• G-5 Grounds:

  Localized areas of rot and loose and damaged fencing was noted. This is characteristic of older fencing. Implement repairs to the fencing as needed until updating. The urgency of this project is subjective and depends how much the new occupant wants to have a fence and what they want it for.

• ED1-3 Exteriors and Decks:

  Rot was noted in the barge rafter of the small storage shed on the south side. Repair as needed.

• ED1-4 Exteriors and Decks:

  Bees / wasps nests were noted on the eaves around the house and require removal to ensure safety to occupants and to be sure they do not set up large nests that could damage the house.

• ED1-6 Exteriors and Decks:

  The wood decking and railing system on this deck is getting old and localized wood decay was noted in the decking and railing system. Roughly 5-10% of the wood is rotting and requires replacement in the near term. Temporary repairs can be made by replacing the worst boards, re-setting loose fasteners and cleaning and re-staining the wood but this deck needs to be re-decked in the near term. Hire a qualified general contractor to further evaluate and repair / replace damaged decking.

• ED1-7 Exteriors and Decks:

  The deck ledger board has been installed over the siding. This is not a recommended installation as this important structural board has less purchase into framing making the deck more vulnerable to collapse. This is also a more difficult installation to flash and can allow water to get trapped between the deck and the siding causing rot and a conducive pest condition. This can be difficult to correct at this point. Consult with a qualified general contractor about options for repair.

• ED1-8 Exteriors and Decks:

  The ledger board at the addition is cracked. This could impact the performance of the ledger. Repair as recommended by a qualified general contractor.

• FSD-1 Fuel Storage and Distribution:

  The gas meter pressure regulator is too close to the appliance vent. It must be at least 3 feet away. Consult with your gas provider for an approved repair. This typically involves using an extension on the breather tube.

• G2-1 Garage:

  Multiple unprotected openings were found in the garage wall fire separation. This should be repaired to complete the fire separation. Standards recommend complete sheetrock walls and ceilings between the garage and all habitable space. Use type C or type X sheetrock as needed to complete large openings in the fire separation and seal up all small gaps in the walls with fire stop caulking or drywall mud as needed.

• G2-3 Garage:

  The overhead garage doors do not reverse under resistance to closing - see the two older openers. Adjustment of the sensitivity is recommended for improved safety. An adjustment setting can often be found as a plastic screw on the opener - I recommend consulting with the owners' manual or looking up the manual on-line as needed.

• G2-4 Garage:

  No safety wire / containment cabling was noted running inside the overhead garage door springs. This is a modern standard to prevent a broken spring from becoming a projectile. Install a wire inside these springs for improved safety.

• G2-5 Garage:

  The garage slab has a staining pattern on it that could indicate seasonal moisture / dampness. This is usually not a major concern in a garage as this is outdoor space but could limit the uses of this space. High moisture content in a garage slab could make it difficult to store cardboard on the floor for example, or finish this space, or could even lead to condensation problems on the overhead door. You can use concrete sealers to better seal the concrete and slow water wicking through to the surface. It is common on garage slabs to prepare them with less vigorous water proofing techniques as they are outside the thermal envelope.

• RCG2-2 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:

  Redirect flashings are needed to divert water around the masonry chimney at the north side - see how water has been running down the side of the chimney.

• RCG2-5 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:

  Organic growth was noted on the masonry chimney. This can be bad for the chimney and trap water in the masonry and hasten deterioration of brick and mortar. Consult with a qualified mason about options for cleaning and sealing the chimney and repairing failing mortar or sealing any cracks as needed.

• RCG2-6 Roof, Chimney and Gutters:

  A loose / missing brick was noted at the south masonry chimney - repair as needed.

• ES1-2 Electric Service:

  The electric panel cover could not be removed and the wiring could not be inspected. I recommend removal of the peg board covering the dead front cover. Then, have the wiring inside the panel further evaluated and repaired if recommended by a licensed electrical contractor.

• EDFW1-1 Electric Distribution and Finish Wiring:

  The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death. For more information, consult the Consumer Product Safety Commission at 1-800-638-2772 (C.P.S.C.) Modern standards in many states now recommend one CO alarm outside of all bedrooms and at least 1 per floor of the house.

• HCFV-2 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

  The ductwork in the crawl space is leaky and should be sealed to improve indoor air quality and improve the efficiency and distribution of the heating system. Use duct mastic to seal all leaks and be sure all ducts are insulated to R-8 or better when passing through unconditioned spaces. One great tool for this is a duct blaster. This can be used to measure leakage and make repairs.

• HCFV-4 Heating, Cooling, Fireplaces and Ventilation:

  The kitchen fan was noted to be ducting into the crawl space - see duct leaks. This could contribute to condensation and mold problems. Repair all fans to be ducting to the exterior of the house and insulate to R-8 or better.

• P-1 Plumbing:

  The supply pipe insulation is incomplete in the crawl space. Be sure all supply lines in unheated spaces have been adequately insulated to protect from freezing conditions that could damage the pipes and to prevent heat loss.

• P-3 Plumbing:

  The discharge tube for the water heater temperature and pressure relief valve is incorrectly installed. The drain should slope to drain to prevent water pooling inside the discharge tube - this has not been done and water collecting inside the discharge could corrode and disable this important safety feature. Ideally, the discharge tube for a relief valve:

  • Terminates to an exterior location or above a drain, though this is not always possible
  • Slopes to drain to prevent water pooling inside the discharge tube
  • Is not made from pipe with an inside diameter less than 3/4 on an inch
  • Terminates to a visible location that can be monitored for leaks and discharges
  • Does not have a threaded termination point which would prevent accidental capping of this important discharge
  • Does not terminate into a drain pan

  I recommend having this relief valve discharge tube further investigated and repaired as recommended by a licensed plumber.

• I-1 Interior:

  A hump in the floor was noted in the 2nd floor near the family bathroom. his may be in the carpet pad? have this further investigated and repaired as is feasible during other renovation work. I did not see signs of cracking or settlement.

• I-3 Interior:

  Water stains were noted on the ceiling in the garage and also on some of the trim work in the living room. These stains were tested with a moisture meter during inspection and tested dry at the time of inspection. Inquire with the seller for any history of prior leakage to get a better sense if repairs may be needed to prevent another leak. Many water leaks are intermittent or related to specific weather conditions or occupant behavior; it is impossible for us to distinguish these conditions during a one-time inspection or to know if repairs could be needed to prevent future leaks. Repair damaged finishes and paint as needed for a proper cosmetic appearance and implement additional repairs as needed to prevent future leaks.

• I-4 Interior:

  Several panes of glass were presenting with a cloudy appearance which could indicate a lost or failed seal. I recommend cleaning the glass. If cloudiness persists and cannot be cleaned, I recommend having the window glass further evaluated by a glass replacement specialist. Replace all glazing with lost seals as needed. A lost seal is a common term for when there is permanent cloudiness between the panes of glass or between the "insulated glass units," IGU's. This is a cosmetic defect that does not impact the short term performance of the window.

• I-5 Interior:

  A cracked pane of glass was noted in the family bathroom. This requires glazing replacement to repair.

• I-6 Interior:

  Localized paint failure was noted on some of the windows inside. Re-paint as needed.

• K-2 Kitchen:

  The downdraft fan controls on the kitchen fan are working poorly. I was able to get the fan to come on, but it was difficult and the control is almost broken. This is an old electric cooktop. Updating is recommended and will likely be needed soon.

• K-3 Kitchen:

  The dishwasher has likely not been run for a while. This can dry out the dishwasher seals and lead to leaks. Leaks were found during inspection indicating repairs or updates may be needed. Have this appliance serviced and repaired as needed.

• K-4 Kitchen:

  The kitchen sink disposer was tested and not working (inoperative) during inspection. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a licensed plumber. Please note the appliance sounds to be bound up and water is not draining properly. I would consider simply removing this appliance and repairing the drain as needed.

• FB1-2 Family Bathroom:

  A slow drain was noted at the bar sink indicating that the drain may be obstructed. Repair as needed so the drain keeps up with the fixture supply. This typically involves cleaning out the trap.

• FB1-3 Family Bathroom:

  High moisture meter readings were taken around the family bathroom toilet, indicating there is likely leakage and possibly concealed water damage. I also noted water stains around the toilet. It is difficult to determine the extent of the needed repair at this time. Repairs can be simple or more complex depending on the moisture source and the condition of materials below the toilet. Further investigation is required to determine an accurate scope of repair. Hire a licensed plumbing contractor to further evaluate and repair the toilet and the finish floor and sub-floor as needed.

• FB1-5 Family Bathroom:

  The sheet goods flooring in the family bathroom is stained around the toilet indicating prior leaks. This was tested and was dry at the time of inspection. This will require replacement of this finish floor to repair and this could conceal hidden water damage. Hire a qualified contractor to repair.

• MB1-2 Main Bathroom:

  The master bathroom toilet was fussy to operate. The handle had to be held down for some time to get the unit to flush properly. Repair, adjust or replace the toilet as needed for reliable performance.

• MB1-3 Main Bathroom:

  Water damaged finishes were noted around the shower in the master bath. This is often caused by occupant behavior. Keep the door closed and well-sealed during showering. Make efforts to keep this area dry and make cosmetic repairs as needed.

• A-1 Attic:

  The attic stair pulldown was noted to be old and unreliable - see missing nuts and loose screws and how the ladder seems to need a lock to stay closed. This unit should be further evaluated by a qualified contractor and repaired or replaced for safety reasons.

• CS3-1 Crawl Space:

  The crawl space access door has fallen off its hinges. Repair as needed so the door opens and closes properly.

• CS3-2 Crawl Space:

  The plastic vapor barrier in the crawl space is incomplete under the addition. Use 6 mil black plastic to cover all exposed earth. This helps to reduce humidity and eliminate conducive pest conditions in the crawl space. Adjust the current vapor barrier or add more plastic as needed.

• CS3-3 Crawl Space:

  Crawl space vents are currently blocked in places - see southeast side. Implement repairs as needed to ensure vents are unobstructed. Use 1/4 inch wire mesh screen to seal as needed. Avoid multiple layers of screen and louvered vents as these restrict air flow. If needed, use cardboard baffles to keep sub-floor insulation away from the vents.

• RPWDO-1 Rodents, Pests and Wood Destroying Organisms:

  Moderate rodent contamination was noted in the crawl space below the house and in the attic above the house. Hire a rodent control specialist or crawl space clean-up company to eliminate and seal all openings and set and monitor traps. Once all rodents have been sealed out all contaminated insulation and construction materials should be removed and replaced. On-going baiting and trapping as well as control of vegetation and elimination of food sources on the exterior of the home are often needed to prevent rodent problems / infestations. Keeping all trees pruned 6 feet off the house is recommended.

• RPWDO-2 Rodents, Pests and Wood Destroying Organisms:

  Wood and cellulose debris was noted in the crawl space. This can encourage wood destroying organisms. Removal of all cellulose debris from the crawl space is recommended to eliminate conditions conducive to wood destroying organisms. This should include all wood as well as the old cardboard form material around the footings.