The Scope and Purpose of a Home Inspection
Purchasing property involves risk
The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a structure by providing a professional opinion about the overall condition of the structure. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we don’t know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend that you attend the inspection.
A home inspection is not an insurance policy
This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Home warranties can be purchased separately from insuring firms that provide this service.
A home inspection is visual and not destructive
The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing which will limit the scope of the inspection.
This is not an inspection for code compliance
This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction process structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, and this limits the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are augmented at least every three years for all of the varying disciplines. Municipalities can choose to adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their own timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done.
This is just our opinion
Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are the opinions of the home inspector. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have some differing opinions. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals.
The scope of this inspection
This inspection will include the following systems: exterior, roof, structure, drainage, foundation, attic, interior, plumbing, electrical and heating. The evaluation will be based on limited observations that are primarily visual and non-invasive. This inspection and report are not intended to be technically exhaustive.For more about the scope of a home inspection see: ASHI National Standards at http://www.aareihome.com/standards.pdf or Washington State Home Inspection Standards at http://app.leg.wa.gov/RCW/default.aspx?cite=18.280.030
Your expectations
The overall goal of a home inspection is to help ensure that your expectations are appropriate with the house you are proposing to buy. To this end we assist with discovery by showing and documenting observations during the home inspection. This should not be mistaken for a technically exhaustive inspection designed to uncover every defect with a building. Such inspections are available but they are generally cost-prohibitive to most homebuyers.
Your participation is requested
Your presence is requested during this inspection. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by a shared visual observation of the conditions of the property.
How to Read This Report
Getting the Information to You
This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a “Quick Look” at our summary page and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, videos and hot links to additional information.
The best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online. This will allow all you to expand your learning about your house. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined – clicking on these will provide you with a link to additional information.
This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document.
Chapters and Sections
This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.
Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there may be no narrative observation comments in that section.
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
- Major Concern:Repair items that may cost significant money to correct now or in the near future, or items that require immediate attention to prevent additional damage or eliminate safety hazards.
- RepairRepair and maintenance items noted during inspection. Please note that some repair items can be expensive to correct such as re-finishing hardwood floors, but are considered simply repair items due to their cosmetic nature.
- ImproveObservations that are not necessarily defects, but which could be improved for safety, efficiency, or reliability reasons.
- MonitorItems that should be watched to see if correction may be needed in the future.
- Due DiligenceObservation such as a buried oil tank that may require further investigation to determine the severity and / or urgency of repair.
- Future ProjectA repair that may be deferred for some time but should be on the radar for repair or replacement in the near future.
- EfficiencyDenotes observations that are needed to make the home more energy efficient as well as to bring the home up to modern insulation standards. This category typically includes windows and insulation. Other items, such as lighting and appliances, are not inspected for their energy status.
- Notes and LimitationsRefers to aside information and /or any comments elaborating on descriptions of systems in the home or limitations to the home inspection.
- WDODenotes the presence of wood destroying organisms or conditions conducive to wood destroying organisms. Conducive conditions include but are not limited to, inadequate clearances, earth/wood contact, cellulose debris, inadequate ventilation, and excessive moisture. All observations with WDO are relevant to a WA State pest inspection.
Wood Destroying
This report includes a structural pest inspection embedded within the report. All observations in this report that begin with WDO are a part of a WA State Pest Inspection. Orca Inspection Services LLC employs Dylan Chalk, Licensed Structural Pest Inspector # 65540. Please note that most WDO observations are related to high moisture conditions that could be conducive to mold-like substances. Orca Inspection Services LLC is not a mold specialist and recommends consulting with an industrial hygienist or other mold remediation expert if concerned about mold or indoor air quality. Pest Inspection Standards in WA State - WAC 16-228-2045 - REQUIRES THAT A DIAGRAM / DRAWING BE PREPARED FOR WOOD DESTROYING ORGANISM (WDO) REPORTS. IF THE PHOTOS AND DESCRIPTIONS IN THIS REPORT ARE INADEQUATE, A DRAWING IS AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST.
Further Evaluation
Whenever further evaluation of a system or component is recommended or whenever due diligence is recommended, this further evaluation or investigation should be done by at least one licensed professional and qualified contractor prior to closing as there is a chance of hidden costs or problems associated with the system or component in question.
Summary Page
The Summary Page is designed as a bulleted overview of all the observations noted during inspection. This helpful overview is not a substitution for reading the entire inspection report. The entire report must be read to get a complete understanding of this inspection report as the Summary Page does not include photographs or photo captions.
Moisture Meter Testing
Where moisture meter testing is indicated in this report a Protimiter Survey Master Dual Function was used.
Quick Look
Major Concerns
- (HCF-2) Heating, Cooling and Fireplaces:
Some parts of the metal vent for the furnace are not properly screwed. A minimum of four screws should be used to secure the vent pipe at each connection point. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a qualified heating contractor to insure reliable performance. I list as a major concern as there is a risk of carbon monoxide of this condition gets worse. This should be a simple repair.
Repairs
- (E-3) Electrical:
Openings were noted inside the electric panel. These should be covered to seal up the panel inside the wall.
- (E-5) Electrical:
The missing cover plates should be installed to cover all access to wiring at switches and receptacles. Please note that extension rings may be needed as the reveal between the outlets and switches and the wall finishes is not even. Lots of missing cover plates were noted in the garage and a few in the kitchen.
- (E-6) Electrical:
Install the missing can light trims - see one missing in master bedroom.
- (E-7) Electrical:
The use of GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) protection is inconsistent with modern minimum standards for safety - see kitchen and garage. GFCI protection is recommended for the electrical receptacles in the following locations: all kitchen countertops, bathrooms, exterior, garage, unfinished basement, laundry and all wet and damp locations. GFCI's protect against electrocution by limiting the duration of an electrical shock. These are an important modern safety feature. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and update this home's system for improved safety.
- (HCF-1) Heating, Cooling and Fireplaces:
Annual servicing is recommended for safe and reliable heat. Records indicate that this furnace has not been serviced in the last year. I also noted a few repair items: see vent observations below as well as some mild drips from the exhaust fan system. Also, the LED indicator light is on. Implement cleaning and repairs as recommended to insure reliable performance.
- (HCF-3) Heating, Cooling and Fireplaces:
Inadequate clearance to combustible materials was noted for the furnace vent. This is a latent fire hazard that should be further evaluated and repaired by a licensed heating contractor as soon as possible. General clearance requirements are 1-inch for insulated B-vent and the sheetrock should have a metal flange around it to seal up to complete the fire separation.
- (HCF-4) Heating, Cooling and Fireplaces:
The B-vent for the furnace is corroded above the roofline. Replacement does not seem urgent. No holes were noted in the vent. Have this further evaluated and repaired as recommended by a qualified heating contractor.
- (HCF-5) Heating, Cooling and Fireplaces:
Cracked brick were noted in the back wall of the fireplace firebox in the lower fireplace. This can make the fireplace unsafe for fires, but was pretty minor at the time of inspection. Hire a mason or chimney sweep to further evaluate this condition and repair as needed to insure safe and reliable performance from the fireplace. Firebox repairs need to be made using firebrick and proper refractory mortars designed for high temperatures.
- (P-2) Plumbing:
Testing of the plumbing system today, I noted the water was too hot - 134 degrees F. This is a scald hazard. To prevent scalding, standards recommend indoor hot water temperatures do not exceed 125 degrees. There is some evidence that hot water temperatures should be greater than 130 degrees to prevent Legionaries' disease from developing in the water heater. If this is a concern, you can heat the water in the tank to 140 degrees F and have a tempering valve installed at the hot water tank. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a licensed plumber or simply turn down the temperature as desired to eliminate a scald hazard.
- (P-4) Plumbing:
The loose hose bib should be secured to the siding to prevent accidental damage to the plumbing during operation.
- (P-6) Plumbing:
The dryer vent appears to be crushed behind the dryer and may not be performing as intended. See www.dryerbox.com. These types of in-set vent connections can prevent this problem. Have this further investigated and repaired by a qualified contractor to insure the dryer is venting as intended.
- (LB-1) Lower Bathroom:
The toilet seat in this bathroom is loose and requires adjustment or replacement for reliable performance.
- (LB-2) Lower Bathroom:
No toilet paper holder was noted for this lower bathroom. Install as desired.
- (K-1) Kitchen:
The kitchen sink faucet is leaking and needs to be repaired or replaced. You can make it stop leaking by pushing the handle to one side but long term this is not satisfactory.
- (K-2) Kitchen:
Tune-up repairs are needed to the kitchen cabinets - a few loose hinges and doors were noted as well as some worn finish in some places. Repair as desired.
- (K-3) Kitchen:
The exhaust vent for the kitchen cooktop fan is incomplete. Repair to insure air is exhausted out of the building. Use rigid vent pipe only, not corrugated.
- (I-2) Interior:
The ends of the hand rail should return into the wall to prevent clothing or accessories from catching on the end of the railing and creating a trip hazard.
- (I-3) Interior:
The interior stairs have non-standard riser heights - see 8 inch tall top step. This is a trip hazard. The tallest riser should not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8ths of an inch. This may not be cost-effective to correct. Consult with a general contractor about improving the safety of these stairs.
- (I-4) Interior:
The loose guardrail and newel post needs to be secured for improved safety. This is an important safety item. The railing should be stiff enough to stop a falling adult. Hire a licensed general contractor to further evaluate and repair.
- (I-5) Interior:
Install the missing pull handle for the lower floor bi-fold closet door off the garage - I also noted another missing in the master bedroom closet. Also, secure the disconnected track slide.
- (I-7) Interior:
The old floor tiles in the home may contain asbestos. Asbestos testing is beyond the scope of this inspection. If removal of these tiles is desired, they should be tested prior to removing. Once asbestos becomes friable or air borne it becomes a safety hazard. As long as these tiles are not disturbed or are encapsulated, they should not pose a health risk, but they could pose a future disposal liability. In general, this building is older than 1978, so I would expect there to be lead and asbestos present that should be identified and remediated by a specialist prior to any renovation work.
- (RA-2) Roof/Attic:
Where fasteners are exposed on the roof, these should be sealed with roofing sealant.
- (RA-5) Roof/Attic:
The attic access hatch requires insulation and weather stripping to prevent heat loss and heat migration into the attic. There is some fiberglass insulation but it is falling off the hatch.
- (EG-1) Exterior/Garage:
I did not find weep holes at the base of the exterior brick siding. Weep holes are designed to provide dry-potential for the wall assembly. Weep holes are typically located every 4-6 feet at the base of the wall assembly. This should be further investigated by a qualified mason and repaired as recommended to insure reliable performance from this wall assembly. Weep holes are important to give the wall assembly dry potential and to prevent pressure differences between the front and the back side of the brick.
- (EG-2) Exterior/Garage:
One piece of exposed building wrap was noted at the east side gable wall on the new fiber cement shingles. Use a metal flashing as needed to cover exposed building wrap and insure a weather proof installation.
- (EG-3) Exterior/Garage:
Complete the trim around the door between the garage and the house and use the appropriate foam to seal up air gaps for improved efficiency.
- (EG-4) Exterior/Garage:
Repair / adjust the back French doors, these are not opening and seem to be stuck at the moment.
- (EG-5) Exterior/Garage:
The 4x4 deck railing posts are notched - this weakens the railing system and is not recommended.
- (EG-6) Exterior/Garage:
Settlement was noted in the deck. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a qualified contractor.
- (EG-8) Exterior/Garage:
Spalling brick was noted on the chimney. If this condition continues un-checked, it can cause structural failure of the brick / masonry. Hire a licensed mason to further evaluate this condition and repair. Also noted some failing mortar and the cracked chimney.
- (EG-10) Exterior/Garage:
The auto-close hinges on the garage door have not been installed. This safety device is recommend ed to insure the door is closed to keep pollutants and even fire from spreading into the house.
- (EG-14) Exterior/Garage:
The overhead garage doors do not reverse under resistance to closing. Adjustment of the sensitivity is recommended for improved safety. An adjustment setting can often be found as a plastic screw on the opener - I recommend consulting with the owners' manual or looking up the manual on-line as needed.
Improves
- (E-1) Electrical:
AFCI (arc fault protection) is now required on all branch circuits supplying outlets or devices installed in residential dwelling unit kitchens, family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, laundry areas, and similar rooms and areas. The goal of this protection is to reduce risks of electrical fires. Consult with a licensed electrician about improving circuit protection as desired. The time to do this is during the next panel replacement.
- (E-2) Electrical:
This home has an old split bus electric panel. No significant red flags were noted during inspection but this is an older panel. In general this is an obsolete load center and the breakers are old and will be increasingly unreliable due to age. Updating this service equipment is recommended in the near term for improved reliability. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and update as recommended.
- (E-4) Electrical:
This building is under-wired by modern standards - see far side of electric range where there is no receptacle. If renovating this kitchen, update to modern standards.
- (P-5) Plumbing:
Older hose bibs were noted on this building. Updating the hose bibs is recommended. Modern hose bibs are typically "frost free," which are (arguably) more resistant to bursting in cold weather. They also have important vacuum breakers installed which can prevent water from your hoses backing into your water supply system. In the meantime, be sure to winterize your hose bibs during cold weather to prevent from freezing and consider adding a vacuum breaker to the end of the hose bib. The following video shows a vacuum breaker. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1vu_YMPPM2M
- (EG-9) Exterior/Garage:
A bollard is needed in the garage to protect the furnace and water heater from physical damage from cars. This is a safety hazard that should be corrected as soon as possible. Hire a qualified contractor to repair.
- (EG-13) Exterior/Garage:
An older model garage door opener was noted with no laser eyes in use as a safety feature - see south side door. These are less safe than modern openers which will reverse when the laser beam is broken. This safety feature is especially important for children and pets. Updating the garage door opener is recommended for improved safety.
- (G-2) Grounds:
The exterior front and side stairs are missing a graspable handrail for safety. This should be a round railing 1 and 1/4 inches - 2 inches in diameter. If the railing is not round it must have a finger groove that is 3/4 of an inch down from the tallest point of the rail. The graspable handrail should also be 1.5 inches from the wall. 2x material is not considered a graspable handrail. Have a qualified contractor build suitable railings to reduce the potential for falls.
Monitors
- (RA-3) Roof/Attic:
This home is employing an advanced gutter guard system. This can help to slow organic build-up in the gutters but during heavy rains I have noticed that water can shoot over the tops of the gutters. Also, these gutters can be complex to clean when they do get clogged with organic debris.
- (EG-11) Exterior/Garage:
A curb has been used at the entrance to the garage. These are often employed where water entry has been a problem in the past. No signs of water damage or water entry were noted. This could inhibit drainage out of the garage.
Due Diligences
- (P-1) Plumbing:
An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. Due to the age and location of the building, a sewer scope is recommended to further evaluate the sewer line and the below ground connection between the house and the municipal sewer line.
- (I-1) Interior:
The old 9x9 floor tiles in the home may contain asbestos. Asbestos testing is beyond the scope of this inspection. If removal of these tiles is desired, they should be tested prior to removing. Once asbestos becomes friable or air borne it becomes a safety hazard. As long as these tiles are not disturbed or are encapsulated, they should not pose a health risk, but they could pose a future disposal liability.
- (G-1) Grounds:
An arborist should be hired to further evaluate the large trees on the property and prune or remove as recommended. Whenever large trees are located near a house a higher level of maintenance should be expected to keep trees safe and healthy and to eliminate the risks of damage to the home or building materials and to eliminate rodent entry points. If you have had this done recently, disclose any receipts.
Efficiencies
- (RA-7) Roof/Attic:
The attic insulation should be improved to modern standards or as close as possible for improved energy efficiency - insulation is done to an older standard of R-38 so it could be improved. Modern standards recommend R-49 on the floor and R-21 on walls. R-value is the measure of resistance to heat loss; the higher the R-value the better the insulation. During insulation repairs it is best practices to implement any air seal-up repairs to seal air leakage. Also, be sure you have completed any wiring or other projects that are needed in the attic. Then, hire an insulation contractor to improve thermal barriers.
Notes
- (SB-1) Structure and Basement:
During inspection today I pulled back several corners of carpet in the basement checking for signs of moisture. No red flags were found. This indicates the basement has been performing as intended.
- (P-3) Plumbing:
The water heater has been updated recently. 2017.
- (P-7) Plumbing:
Apparently, the old irrigation system has been disabled.
- (MB-1) Master Bathroom:
During inspection today I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for concealed leaks. I also sounded for loose finishes in shower and tub enclosures. I felt for loose waste pipe below sinks and where accessible and checked for leaks below sinks. I do not test bathtub overflow drains during inspection as this risks damaging finishes around the tub. I did not see any signs of previous leaks relating to the overflow during inspection today. I recommend monitoring tubs while filling and avoid pushing water into the overflow. Even well-installed overflow drains can leak as the gaskets that seal the overflow will dry out over time and may no longer provide a watertight seal. Monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents significantly less stress on plumbing than daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
- (MB-2) Master Bathroom:
In general, the bathrooms here have been updated.
- (I-6) Interior:
Looks like all the windows here have been updated except in the garage .
- (RA-1) Roof/Attic:
This roof covering is done in an architectural grade composition shingle. The roof looks to be professionally installed based on visual observations: rows are straight and neat, terminations are even and flashings look normal. Disclose any information about the installer or any warranty information.
- (RA-4) Roof/Attic:
I did not crawl the crawl space for the attic where there was no ramp or safe way to access the space. Crawling in the V of trusses or on top of framing risks damaging thermal barriers and ceiling finishes and is not a safe way to access an attic. This limited inspection of this space.
- (RA-6) Roof/Attic:
I inspected the attic space today and no red flags were noted regarding prior moisture build-up or relative humidity. Venting appeared unrestricted. Wood has a nice bright color indicating no prior moisture problems with relative humidity. The skylight chamber is well-insulated.
- (EG-7) Exterior/Garage:
To see a prescriptive guide for residential wood deck construction see this link: https://getscribeware.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/AWC-DCA62012-DeckGuide-1405.pdf
- (EG-12) Exterior/Garage:
Containment cables have been added to the garage door springs for safety - this is an excellent safety improvement.
Structure and Basement
Foundation
% of Foundation Not Visible 80%
Evidence of Seismic Protection Not visible
Building Configuration Basement
Foundation Description Poured concrete
Floor, Wall and Ceiling Framing
Wall Framing Not visible
Wall Insulation Not visible
Wall Sheathing Not visible
Floor Framing Not visible
Sub-Floor Material Not visible
Ceiling Framing Not visible, Bottom cord of truss
Basement
Full
Basement Moisture
None noted
During inspection today I pulled back several corners of carpet in the basement checking for signs of moisture. No red flags were found. This indicates the basement has been performing as intended.
Pests and Wood Destroying Organisms
Pests and Rodents
None noted
Wood Destroying Organisms
Visible Evidence of Active Wood Destroying Insects None noted
Visible Evidence of Inactive Wood Destroying Insects None noted
Visible Evidence of Active Wood Decay and Fungi None noted
Visible Evidence of Damage from Wood Destroying Organisms None noted
Visible Evidence of Conditions Conducive to Wood Destroying Organisms Present
Electrical
Service Equipment
Volts 120/240
Service Drop Underground
Meter Base Amperage 125
Service Entrance (SE) conductor Size Aluminum, 1/0, 125 amps
Main Panel Amperage 125 amps
Electric Service Amperage 125 amps
Main Electric Panel Location Garage
AFCI (arc fault protection) is now required on all branch circuits supplying outlets or devices installed in residential dwelling unit kitchens, family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, laundry areas, and similar rooms and areas. The goal of this protection is to reduce risks of electrical fires. Consult with a licensed electrician about improving circuit protection as desired. The time to do this is during the next panel replacement.
This home has an old split bus electric panel. No significant red flags were noted during inspection but this is an older panel. In general this is an obsolete load center and the breakers are old and will be increasingly unreliable due to age. Updating this service equipment is recommended in the near term for improved reliability. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and update as recommended.
Openings were noted inside the electric panel. These should be covered to seal up the panel inside the wall.
Branch Wiring
Wire Material Copper and Multi-strand Aluminum
Wiring Method Non-metallic sheathed cable
This building is under-wired by modern standards - see far side of electric range where there is no receptacle. If renovating this kitchen, update to modern standards.
Receptacles and Fixtures
Inspection Method Random Testing
Outlets Three wire outlets
The missing cover plates should be installed to cover all access to wiring at switches and receptacles. Please note that extension rings may be needed as the reveal between the outlets and switches and the wall finishes is not even. Lots of missing cover plates were noted in the garage and a few in the kitchen.
Install the missing can light trims - see one missing in master bedroom.
The use of GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) protection is inconsistent with modern minimum standards for safety - see kitchen and garage. GFCI protection is recommended for the electrical receptacles in the following locations: all kitchen countertops, bathrooms, exterior, garage, unfinished basement, laundry and all wet and damp locations. GFCI's protect against electrocution by limiting the duration of an electrical shock. These are an important modern safety feature. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and update this home's system for improved safety.
Smoke and CO Alarm Systems
Present
Grounding Electrode / Conductor
Could Not Confirm
Fuel Storage and Distribution
Oil Storage
None noted
Propane Storage
None noted
Gas Meter
Present
Gas Shutoff Location South side of structure
Gas Pipe Materials Steel and flex pipe
Heating, Cooling and Fireplaces
Heating System
Energy Source Natural gas
Heating Method Forced air furnace
Manufacturer Payne
Capacity 88 mbtu
Age 2010
Last Service Record Paragon @ 425-252-1807
Filtration System Disposable
Annual servicing is recommended for safe and reliable heat. Records indicate that this furnace has not been serviced in the last year. I also noted a few repair items: see vent observations below as well as some mild drips from the exhaust fan system. Also, the LED indicator light is on. Implement cleaning and repairs as recommended to insure reliable performance.
Some parts of the metal vent for the furnace are not properly screwed. A minimum of four screws should be used to secure the vent pipe at each connection point. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a qualified heating contractor to insure reliable performance. I list as a major concern as there is a risk of carbon monoxide of this condition gets worse. This should be a simple repair.
Inadequate clearance to combustible materials was noted for the furnace vent. This is a latent fire hazard that should be further evaluated and repaired by a licensed heating contractor as soon as possible. General clearance requirements are 1-inch for insulated B-vent and the sheetrock should have a metal flange around it to seal up to complete the fire separation.
The B-vent for the furnace is corroded above the roofline. Replacement does not seem urgent. No holes were noted in the vent. Have this further evaluated and repaired as recommended by a qualified heating contractor.
Cooling Systems / Heat Pumps
None Noted
Heating / Cooling Distribution Systems
Heat Source in Each Room Present
Distribution Method Ductwork
Additional Heat Sources
None noted
Gas Fireplaces
None noted
Solid Fuel Fireplaces
Present
Fireplace Types Masonry firebox, Masonry firebox
Cracked brick were noted in the back wall of the fireplace firebox in the lower fireplace. This can make the fireplace unsafe for fires, but was pretty minor at the time of inspection. Hire a mason or chimney sweep to further evaluate this condition and repair as needed to insure safe and reliable performance from the fireplace. Firebox repairs need to be made using firebrick and proper refractory mortars designed for high temperatures.
Plumbing
Water Service Supply
Pipe Material Unknown
Well or Public Supply Public
Water Pressure 75 PSI
Pressure Reducing Valve None noted
Main Water Shut-off Location Basement
Distribution Pipe
Pipe Insulation Present
Supply Pipe Materials Copper
Functional Flow Average
Waste Pipe and Discharge
Discharge Type Public sewer
Waste and Vent Pipe Materials ABS plastic
An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. Due to the age and location of the building, a sewer scope is recommended to further evaluate the sewer line and the below ground connection between the house and the municipal sewer line.
Water Heater
System Type Tank
Manufacturer Bradford-White
Water Temperature 134 degrees F
Size 50 gal
Age 2017
Energy Source Electricity
Temperature Pressure Relief Value Present - Not Tested
Testing of the plumbing system today, I noted the water was too hot - 134 degrees F. This is a scald hazard. To prevent scalding, standards recommend indoor hot water temperatures do not exceed 125 degrees. There is some evidence that hot water temperatures should be greater than 130 degrees to prevent Legionaries' disease from developing in the water heater. If this is a concern, you can heat the water in the tank to 140 degrees F and have a tempering valve installed at the hot water tank. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a licensed plumber or simply turn down the temperature as desired to eliminate a scald hazard.
The water heater has been updated recently. 2017.
Exterior Hose Bibs
Operating
The loose hose bib should be secured to the siding to prevent accidental damage to the plumbing during operation.
Older hose bibs were noted on this building. Updating the hose bibs is recommended. Modern hose bibs are typically "frost free," which are (arguably) more resistant to bursting in cold weather. They also have important vacuum breakers installed which can prevent water from your hoses backing into your water supply system. In the meantime, be sure to winterize your hose bibs during cold weather to prevent from freezing and consider adding a vacuum breaker to the end of the hose bib. The following video shows a vacuum breaker. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1vu_YMPPM2M
Additional Sinks
Tested
Sewage Ejector Pumps
None noted
Sump Pumps and Drains
Floor Drain None noted
Sump Pumps None noted
Washer
Tested
Dryer
Tested
Power Source Electric
Duct to Exterior Ducted
The dryer vent appears to be crushed behind the dryer and may not be performing as intended. See www.dryerbox.com. These types of in-set vent connections can prevent this problem. Have this further investigated and repaired by a qualified contractor to insure the dryer is venting as intended.
Additional Plumbing
None noted
Apparently, the old irrigation system has been disabled.
Lower Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
The toilet seat in this bathroom is loose and requires adjustment or replacement for reliable performance.
No toilet paper holder was noted for this lower bathroom. Install as desired.
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
Bathroom Ventilation
Type Bath fan
General Bath Condition
Standard
Family Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
Bathroom Ventilation
Type Bath fan
General Bath Condition
Standard
Master Bathroom
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
Bathroom Ventilation
Type Fan and window
General Bath Condition
Standard
During inspection today I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for concealed leaks. I also sounded for loose finishes in shower and tub enclosures. I felt for loose waste pipe below sinks and where accessible and checked for leaks below sinks. I do not test bathtub overflow drains during inspection as this risks damaging finishes around the tub. I did not see any signs of previous leaks relating to the overflow during inspection today. I recommend monitoring tubs while filling and avoid pushing water into the overflow. Even well-installed overflow drains can leak as the gaskets that seal the overflow will dry out over time and may no longer provide a watertight seal. Monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents significantly less stress on plumbing than daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.
In general, the bathrooms here have been updated.
Kitchen
Sinks and Faucets
Tested
The kitchen sink faucet is leaking and needs to be repaired or replaced. You can make it stop leaking by pushing the handle to one side but long term this is not satisfactory.
Cabinets and Countertops
Countertop Material Tile, Wood
Cabinet Material Wood laminate
Tune-up repairs are needed to the kitchen cabinets - a few loose hinges and doors were noted as well as some worn finish in some places. Repair as desired.
Ventilation Method
Ductless fan
The exhaust vent for the kitchen cooktop fan is incomplete. Repair to insure air is exhausted out of the building. Use rigid vent pipe only, not corrugated.
Appliances
Refrigerator Operating
Dishwasher Operated
Dishwasher Air Gap None noted
Range/ Oven /Cook-tops Electric
Disposer Operated
General Kitchen Condition
Standard
Interior
Floors
Floor Materials Hardwood, Wood Laminate, Tile
Floor Settlement None noted
The old 9x9 floor tiles in the home may contain asbestos. Asbestos testing is beyond the scope of this inspection. If removal of these tiles is desired, they should be tested prior to removing. Once asbestos becomes friable or air borne it becomes a safety hazard. As long as these tiles are not disturbed or are encapsulated, they should not pose a health risk, but they could pose a future disposal liability.
Walls, Ceilings and Closets
Wall and Ceiling Materials Drywall
Stairs and Railings
Non-standard
The ends of the hand rail should return into the wall to prevent clothing or accessories from catching on the end of the railing and creating a trip hazard.
The interior stairs have non-standard riser heights - see 8 inch tall top step. This is a trip hazard. The tallest riser should not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8ths of an inch. This may not be cost-effective to correct. Consult with a general contractor about improving the safety of these stairs.
The loose guardrail and newel post needs to be secured for improved safety. This is an important safety item. The railing should be stiff enough to stop a falling adult. Hire a licensed general contractor to further evaluate and repair.
Interior Doors
Solid Core
Install the missing pull handle for the lower floor bi-fold closet door off the garage - I also noted another missing in the master bedroom closet. Also, secure the disconnected track slide.
Windows
Window Glazing Double pane
Interior Window Frame Vinyl
Window Styles Sliding, Fixed pane
Looks like all the windows here have been updated except in the garage .
Mechanical Ventilation
Bath Fan Ducting Ductwork not visible
Kitchen Fan Ducting Ductwork not visible
Indoor Air Quality
The old floor tiles in the home may contain asbestos. Asbestos testing is beyond the scope of this inspection. If removal of these tiles is desired, they should be tested prior to removing. Once asbestos becomes friable or air borne it becomes a safety hazard. As long as these tiles are not disturbed or are encapsulated, they should not pose a health risk, but they could pose a future disposal liability. In general, this building is older than 1978, so I would expect there to be lead and asbestos present that should be identified and remediated by a specialist prior to any renovation work.
Roof/Attic
Roof Materials
Method of Roof Inspection Walked on roof
Roof Style Gable
Roof Materials Architectural grade composition shingle
Approximate Age of Roof Newer
This roof covering is done in an architectural grade composition shingle. The roof looks to be professionally installed based on visual observations: rows are straight and neat, terminations are even and flashings look normal. Disclose any information about the installer or any warranty information.
Where fasteners are exposed on the roof, these should be sealed with roofing sealant.
Skylights
Insulated curb style
Gutters and Downspouts
Seamless Aluminum
This home is employing an advanced gutter guard system. This can help to slow organic build-up in the gutters but during heavy rains I have noticed that water can shoot over the tops of the gutters. Also, these gutters can be complex to clean when they do get clogged with organic debris.
Attic Access
Viewed at access
I did not crawl the crawl space for the attic where there was no ramp or safe way to access the space. Crawling in the V of trusses or on top of framing risks damaging thermal barriers and ceiling finishes and is not a safe way to access an attic. This limited inspection of this space.
The attic access hatch requires insulation and weather stripping to prevent heat loss and heat migration into the attic. There is some fiberglass insulation but it is falling off the hatch.
Roof Framing and Sheathing
Rafters Truss
Sheathing OSB, Skip sheathing
I inspected the attic space today and no red flags were noted regarding prior moisture build-up or relative humidity. Venting appeared unrestricted. Wood has a nice bright color indicating no prior moisture problems with relative humidity. The skylight chamber is well-insulated.
Attic Insulation
Insulation Type Cellulose, Silva wool
Approximate Insulation R-Value on Attic Floor 38
The attic insulation should be improved to modern standards or as close as possible for improved energy efficiency - insulation is done to an older standard of R-38 so it could be improved. Modern standards recommend R-49 on the floor and R-21 on walls. R-value is the measure of resistance to heat loss; the higher the R-value the better the insulation. During insulation repairs it is best practices to implement any air seal-up repairs to seal air leakage. Also, be sure you have completed any wiring or other projects that are needed in the attic. Then, hire an insulation contractor to improve thermal barriers.
Attic and Roof Cavity Ventilation
Attic Ventilation Method Soffit vents, Roof jack vents
Exterior/Garage
Siding and Trim
Trim Material Wood
Siding Material Fiber-cement, Brick, Beveled cedar
I did not find weep holes at the base of the exterior brick siding. Weep holes are designed to provide dry-potential for the wall assembly. Weep holes are typically located every 4-6 feet at the base of the wall assembly. This should be further investigated by a qualified mason and repaired as recommended to insure reliable performance from this wall assembly. Weep holes are important to give the wall assembly dry potential and to prevent pressure differences between the front and the back side of the brick.
One piece of exposed building wrap was noted at the east side gable wall on the new fiber cement shingles. Use a metal flashing as needed to cover exposed building wrap and insure a weather proof installation.
Eaves
Open rafters
Exterior Doors
Solid core
Complete the trim around the door between the garage and the house and use the appropriate foam to seal up air gaps for improved efficiency.
Repair / adjust the back French doors, these are not opening and seem to be stuck at the moment.
Exterior Window Frames
Vinyl
Decks and Balconies
Present
Deck Structure Ground contact treated lumber
Deck Ledger Board Standard
Guardrail Non-standard
Decking Material Softwood
The 4x4 deck railing posts are notched - this weakens the railing system and is not recommended.
Settlement was noted in the deck. Have this further evaluated and repaired by a qualified contractor.
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To see a prescriptive guide for residential wood deck construction see this link: https://getscribeware.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/AWC-DCA62012-DeckGuide-1405.pdf
Porches
Present
Chimneys
Present
Chimney Material Masonry
Chimney Flue Liners Present
Spalling brick was noted on the chimney. If this condition continues un-checked, it can cause structural failure of the brick / masonry. Hire a licensed mason to further evaluate this condition and repair. Also noted some failing mortar and the cracked chimney.
Garage
Attached
Automatic Garage Opener Present
Garage Door Type Metal
A bollard is needed in the garage to protect the furnace and water heater from physical damage from cars. This is a safety hazard that should be corrected as soon as possible. Hire a qualified contractor to repair.
The auto-close hinges on the garage door have not been installed. This safety device is recommend ed to insure the door is closed to keep pollutants and even fire from spreading into the house.
A curb has been used at the entrance to the garage. These are often employed where water entry has been a problem in the past. No signs of water damage or water entry were noted. This could inhibit drainage out of the garage.
Containment cables have been added to the garage door springs for safety - this is an excellent safety improvement.
An older model garage door opener was noted with no laser eyes in use as a safety feature - see south side door. These are less safe than modern openers which will reverse when the laser beam is broken. This safety feature is especially important for children and pets. Updating the garage door opener is recommended for improved safety.
The overhead garage doors do not reverse under resistance to closing. Adjustment of the sensitivity is recommended for improved safety. An adjustment setting can often be found as a plastic screw on the opener - I recommend consulting with the owners' manual or looking up the manual on-line as needed.
Grounds
Drainage and Lot Location
Clearance to Grade Standard
Downspout Discharge Below grade
Lot Description Moderate slope
Driveways/Walkways/Flatwork
Driveway Asphalt
Walkways Concrete
Patios Pavers
Window and Stairwells
None Noted
Grounds, Trees and Vegetation
Trees/Vegetation too near building No
An arborist should be hired to further evaluate the large trees on the property and prune or remove as recommended. Whenever large trees are located near a house a higher level of maintenance should be expected to keep trees safe and healthy and to eliminate the risks of damage to the home or building materials and to eliminate rodent entry points. If you have had this done recently, disclose any receipts.
Retaining Walls
Present
Retaining Wall Material Stone, Block
Exterior Stairs
Standard
The exterior front and side stairs are missing a graspable handrail for safety. This should be a round railing 1 and 1/4 inches - 2 inches in diameter. If the railing is not round it must have a finger groove that is 3/4 of an inch down from the tallest point of the rail. The graspable handrail should also be 1.5 inches from the wall. 2x material is not considered a graspable handrail. Have a qualified contractor build suitable railings to reduce the potential for falls.
Fences
None noted
Carport, Outbuildings and Other
None noted
Receipt -- Single Family Inspection
| Inspection with digital report | $595.00 |
| $595.00 | |
| PAID |
Orca Inspection Services LLC
C/O Dylan Chalk
5761 NE Tolo Rd
Bainbridge Island, WA , WA 98110
(206) 713-5715
Orca Inspection Services LLC
Phone: (206) 713-5715
orcainspect@gmail.com
http://www.orcainspect.com
Inspected by Dylan Chalk
WA State Pest License #: 65540
WA State Home Inspector #: 365
