Overview
Overall, this 4-plex is in need of some substantial repairs and updates for safety and reliability. Please see the attached list of repairs in this report. I suspect most of the value here is in the land as repairs needed to the building will require a significant investment to make the units safe and reliable for occupants.
The Scope and Purpose of a Home Inspection
Purchasing property involves risk
The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a structure by providing a professional opinion about the overall condition of the structure. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we don’t know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend that you attend the inspection.
A home inspection is not an insurance policy
This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Home warranties can be purchased separately from insuring firms that provide this service.
A home inspection is visual and not destructive
The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing which will limit the scope of the inspection.
This is not an inspection for code compliance
This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction process structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, and this limits the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are augmented at least every three years for all of the varying disciplines. Municipalities can choose to adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their own timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done.
This is just our opinion
Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are the opinions of the home inspector. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have some differing opinions. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals.
The scope of this inspection
This inspection will include the following systems: exterior, roof, structure, drainage, foundation, attic, interior, plumbing, electrical and heating. The evaluation will be based on limited observations that are primarily visual and non-invasive. This inspection and report are not intended to be technically exhaustive.For more about the scope of a home inspection see: ASHI National Standards at http://www.aareihome.com/standards.pdf or Washington State Home Inspection Standards at http://app.leg.wa.gov/RCW/default.aspx?cite=18.280.030
Your expectations
The overall goal of a home inspection is to help insure that your expectations are appropriate with the house you are proposing to buy. To this end we assist with discovery by showing and documenting observations during the home inspection. This should not be mistaken for a technically exhaustive inspection designed to uncover every defect with a building. Such inspections are available but they are generally cost-prohibitive to most homebuyers.
Your participation is requested
Your presence is requested during this inspection. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by a shared visual observation of the conditions of the property.
How to Read This Report
Getting the Information to You
This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a “Quick Look” at our summary page and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, videos and hot links to additional information.
The best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online. This will allow all you to expand your learning about your house. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined – clicking on these will provide you with a link to additional information.
This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document.
Chapters and Sections
This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.
Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there may be no narrative observation comments in that section.
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
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Major Concern:Repair items that may cost significant money to correct now or in the near future, or items that require immediate attention to prevent additional damage or eliminate safety hazards.
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RepairRepair and maintenance items noted during inspection. Please note that some repair items can be expensive to correct such as re-finishing hardwood floors, but are considered simply repair items due to their cosmetic nature.
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ImproveObservations that are not necessarily defects, but which could be improved for safety, efficiency, or reliability reasons.
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MonitorItems that should be watched to see if correction may be needed in the future.
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Due DiligenceObservation such as a buried oil tank that may require further investigation to determine the severity and / or urgency of repair.
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Future ProjectA repair that may be deferred for some time but should be on the radar for repair or replacement in the near future.
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EfficiencyDenotes observations that are needed to make the home more energy efficient as well as to bring the home up to modern insulation standards. This category typically includes windows and insulation. Other items, such as lighting and appliances, are not inspected for their energy status.
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Notes and LimitationsRefers to aside information and /or any comments elaborating on descriptions of systems in the home or limitations to the home inspection.
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WDODenotes the presence of wood destroying organisms or conditions conducive to wood destroying organisms. Conducive conditions include but are not limited to, inadequate clearances, earth/wood contact, cellulose debris, inadequate ventilation, and excessive moisture. All observations with WDO are relevant to a WA State pest inspection.
Wood Destroying
This report includes a structural pest inspection embedded within the report. All observations in this report that begin with WDO are a part of a WA State Pest Inspection. Orca Inspection Services LLC employs Dylan Chalk, Licensed Structural Pest Inspector # 65540. Please note that most WDO observations are related to high moisture conditions that could be conducive to mold-like substances. Orca Inspection Services LLC is not a mold specialist and recommends consulting with an industrial hygienist or other mold remediation expert if concerned about mold or indoor air quality. Pest Inspection Standards in WA State - WAC 16-228-2045 - REQUIRES THAT A DIAGRAM / DRAWING BE PREPARED FOR WOOD DESTROYING ORGANISM (WDO) REPORTS. IF THE PHOTOS AND DESCRIPTIONS IN THIS REPORT ARE INADEQUATE, A DRAWING IS AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST.
Further Evaluation
Whenever further evaluation of a system or component is recommended or whenever due diligence is recommended, this further evaluation or investigation should be done by at least one licensed professional and qualified contractor prior to closing as there is a chance of hidden costs or problems associated with the system or component in question.
Summary Page
The Summary Page is designed as a bulleted overview of all the observations noted during inspection. This helpful overview is not a substitution for reading the entire inspection report. The entire report must be read to get a complete understanding of this inspection report as the Summary Page does not include photographs or photo captions.
Moisture Meter Testing
Where moisture meter testing is indicated in this report a Protimiter Survey Master Dual Function was used.
Quick Look
Major Concerns
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(PWDO-1) Pests and Wood Destroying Organisms:
(PWDO-1) Major Concern: Extensive rodent contamination and damage was noted in the crawl space. Hire a rodent control specialist to further evaluate and implement repairs as recommended to exclude rodents and remediate damage and contamination. Repairs should include sealing all openings, setting and monitoring traps and remediating all contamination. Once rodent contamination has been cleaned, be sure to check wiring for physical damage as rodents can chew wiring which can create unsafe conditions.
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(CS-7) Crawl Space:
(CS-7) Major Concern (WDO): Moderate water was noted in the crawl space. This condition may change seasonally, or with rain intensity. Moisture is bad for crawl spaces and can lead to interior molds, structural settlement and wood destroying organisms. Hire a drainage specialist or qualified contractor to further evaluate and correct this condition. Also see the Drainage section of this report for observations regarding exterior drainage repairs that are needed.
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(E-1) Electrical:
(E-1) Major Concern: A Zinsco brand electric panel was noted - actually 5 different panels were noted: 1 100 amp panel for each unit as well as 1 @ 70 amps for the house. These are an old, obsolete brand of panel with a reputation for failing and malfunctioning breakers as well as a unique bus bar configuration with a reputation for loose connections that can lead to arcing an fires. These panels are considered a latent fire hazard. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and replace this panel. A few specific observations noted during inspection include:
- Electrical service here has 5 meters
- Arcing noted on main bus bar of house panel
- Voltage was measured at 120/240 - showing 244.8 here.
- Openings were noted in this panel that need to be sealed - house panel.
- White-insulated conductors used as hots are not correctly identified.
- Long screws have been used to attach the dead front cover. This is a safety hazard.
- Wiring has not been correctly run into the panel through a concentric knockout.
- Double tapped breakers noted - one one tap / breaker unless it is an approved breaker, which these are not.
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(I-2) Interior:
(I-2) Major Concern (WDO): High relative humidity was noted inside the building during inspection today. Any time a building has consistently high relative humidity conditions are conducive to molds and wood destroying organisms. Mold-like substances were noted in virtually every unit today. The condition is likely chronic from the drainage situation as well as old construction and no proper air barrier between the crawl space and the house. To repair, the crawl space needs to be dried out and an air barrier installed in the sub-floor. Indoor bath fans can also be added and employed where needed to facilitate air changes and dry out the home. I recommend consulting with an indoor air quality specialist or a qualified contractor about options for repair and remediation of all mold-like substances and control of indoor relative humidity. Examples of some observations during inspection include:
- Condensation noted on most windows
- Sweating at the toilet tank
- Molds and condensation at an exterior door
- Molds on the sheetrock in a bathroom
- Note the black stains on the sub-floor insulation which indicate air leakage through the sub-floor.
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(RA-1) Roof/Attic:
(RA-1) Major Concern (WDO): The roofing material on this building appears to be a single ply roof membrane, it looks roughly 10-15 years old. These are often rated as 20-50 years roofs; service life depends on the thickness of the membrane as well as the quality of the installation. This installation is holing loads of water and there is evidence of active roof leakage - see infrared images of thermal anomalies as well as moisture meter readings in the ceiling of unit #4. I recommend additional inspection of this roof by a qualified roofing contractor. Repair or replace this roof as recommended to insure reliable performance and repair all water damaged materials inside as needed. Examples of red flags and defects found during inspection include:
- Lots of organic debris and ponding on the roof
- Water stains near 5the entry door in #4
- Water stains above the entry door in #4
- Looks as though water leaked into this light at some point #4
- High moisture meter readings in kitchen. #4
- Signs of white fungal rot visible through east side soffit vent.
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(EG-1) Exterior/Garage:
(EG-1) Major Concern (WDO): The exterior siding needs to be re-painted in the near term - see especially the exposed gable ends.
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(G-6) Grounds:
(G-6) Major Concern: Corrosion was noted on the metal stairs. In places this is progressed. Difficult to predict when this will become a structural hazard,. I recommend additional inspection of the metal stairs by a qualified contractor. Repair or replace the stairs as recommended.
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(G-9) Grounds:
(G-9) Major Concern (WDO): The SW corner of the entry deck is rotting and requires immediate water damage repair to insure safe performance from this deck. I would consider removing this odd enclosed storage space.
Repairs
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(SB-2) Structure and Basement:
(SB-2) Repair (WDO): This foundation has old wooden form ties between the footing and the foundation stem wall. These are now rotting and could allow an opening for water or rodents. I recommend removing all old wooden foundation cleats and sealing with hydraulic cement as needed.
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(CS-1) Crawl Space:
(CS-1) Repair (WDO): Repair the wood rot at the crawl space access door - use pressure treated lumber for repairs.
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(CS-2) Crawl Space:
(CS-2) Repair: The crawl space access hatch does not look rodent proof. Rebuilding is recommended to eliminate a rodent entry point. A nice way to seal the opening is to build a frame of pressure treated wood that fits snugly into the opening in the foundation and then cover this with 1/4 wire mesh.
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(CS-3) Crawl Space:
(CS-3) Repair: The current vapor barrier in the crawl space is rodent-damaged. Replace vapor barrier. Use 6 mil black plastic to cover all exposed earth.
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(CS-4) Crawl Space:
(CS-4) Repair (WDO): Crawl space vents are currently blocked by insulation - NE corner. Use cardboard baffles that mount onto the floor joists to pull insulation away from the vents and allow proper ventilation. Seal up vents with 1/4 inch wire mesh to prevent rodent entry.
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(CS-5) Crawl Space:
(CS-5) Repair (WDO): A rodent entry point was noted at the damaged crawl space vent screen - SE corner. There are seems to be some rotted wood here. Repair the screen and wood around the vent as needed.
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(E-3) Electrical:
(E-3) Repair: Surface run non-metallic sheathed cable was noted for every bath fan. This wiring is subject to physical damage and needs to be re-run inside a wall or protected by a raceway or armory. Also, note in unit #2 the exposed wires that were not properly run into the fan fixture.
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(E-5) Electrical:
(E-5) Repair: Surface run non-metallic sheathed cable was noted to the kitchen fan in #3. This wiring is subject to physical damage and needs to be re-run inside a wall or protected by a raceway or armory.
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(E-6) Electrical:
(E-6) Repair: The use of GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) protection is inconsistent with modern minimum standards for safety - see kitchen countertops especially. GFCI protection is recommended for the electrical receptacles in the following locations: all kitchen countertops, bathrooms, exterior, garage, unfinished basement, laundry and all wet and damp locations. GFCI's protect against electrocution by limiting the duration of an electrical shock. These are an important modern safety feature. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and update this home's system for improved safety.
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(E-7) Electrical:
(E-7) Repair: The GFCI protected receptacle in bath #2 did not respond to testing and may be defective - it did not trip when tested. Have this receptacle repaired or replaced as needed.
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(E-8) Electrical:
(E-8) Repair: Reverse polarity was noted at the electrical receptacle in the kitchen of #1. This is when the hot and the neutral have been wired backwards. This is a safety issue that should be corrected by a licensed electrician.
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(E-9) Electrical:
(E-9) Repair: I recommend having the smoke and carbon monoxide alarm system serviced and checked. I saw some missing smoke alarms and disabled CO alarms.
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(E-10) Electrical:
(E-10) Repair: Have the electrical bonding and grounding system checked by a licensed electrician. Adequate bonding could not be verified at the main water or the water heater and I found no ground rod outside. This is an important safety feature to prevent electrocutions and insure proper discharge of surges.
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(HCF-1) Heating, Cooling and Fireplaces:
(HCF-1) Repair: Some of the baseboard heaters in this building have electric receptacles located above the electric heater - see #2. This is not to modern electrical standards and is a latent fire hazard as electric cords can dangle over the heaters and lead to overheating. The most cost-effective way to correct this configuration is to re-locate or alter the type of heater. Often baseboard heaters are replaced with wall-mounted forced air heaters. Consult with a qualified heating contractor or electrician to further evaluate and repair.
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(HCF-2) Heating, Cooling and Fireplaces:
(HCF-2) Repair: The heating system in #4 seems to require repair. I only found one heater working in the bathroom. The unit was cold. There was a plug in heater in the bedroom. Due to all the stuff in the house, I could have missed a baseboard heater? Repair heat in this unit so all heaters are operating.
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(HCF-3) Heating, Cooling and Fireplaces:
(HCF-3) Repair: The electric wall mounted forced air heater was not responding to normal operating controls and appears to be defective / inoperative - bath #3. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and repair or replace this heater. I would also be sure all bathroom heaters are GFCI protected as these are in damp locations.
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(P-2) Plumbing:
(P-2) Repair: The Polybutylene (PB, gray plastic) supply hoses and angle stops noted below several sinks are an unreliable plumbing product with a reputation for failing fittings - see below kitchen sink in #3. Updating to copper or braided steel supply hoses and new angle stops is recommended. These are common to find in 1990's era buildings. Consult with a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair.
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(P-5) Plumbing:
(P-5) Repair: Install listed seismic straps to support the water heaters in the event of an earthquake; none were noted during inspection on any of the water heaters. Two straps should be located on each water heater: one on upper 1/3rd of tank and one at the lower 1/3rd.
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(P-7) Plumbing:
(P-7) Repair: The discharge tubes for the water heater relief valves are inadequate only one of the water heaters has a proper discharge tube. Discharge tubes should always terminate by pointing toward the ground to eliminate a scald hazard and should be between 6" and 18" off the ground. Ideally, the discharge tube terminates to an exterior or unfinished location or above a drain, though this is not always possible. The drain should also slope to drain to prevent water pooling inside the discharge tube.
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(P-9) Plumbing:
(P-9) Repair: The hose bib at the east side is poorly mounted to the siding. This could cause leaks in the siding around the hose bib and could allow the hose bib to become loose during operation. Hose bibs should be securely mounted to blocks that are lead into the siding and which are properly flashed or caulked.
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(P-11) Plumbing:
(P-11) Repair: The exterior dryer exhaust duct cover is missing a baffle. This vent cover needs to be repaired or replaced so that a baffle covers the opening when the dryer is not in use. Please note that a screened cover is not recommended for dryer exhaust duct terminations as this can trap lint.
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(P-12) Plumbing:
(P-12) Repair: Plastic dryer transition duct was noted in use to connect the dryer to the rigid vent. This product is not recommended as it has proven to be unreliable and a potential fire hazard. Improvement to a corrugated metal flex duct is recommended.
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(B1(1)-1) Bathroom #1:
(B1(1)-1) Repair: The stopper to the bathroom sink is missing - install proper stopper system.
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(B2(1)-1) Bathroom #2:
(B2(1)-1) Repair: The bathroom toilet in #2 needs to be reset and the wax ring and flange should be inspected and replaced as needed to prevent hidden plumbing leaks. High moisture meter readings were taken around the toilet, indicating there is a possibly of hidden water damage. It is difficult to determine the extent of needed repairs without further investigation. The toilet appears to be well mounted as it is not very loose on the floor. Repairs can be as simple as replacing a wax ring and caulking or more complex if repair of the bolts, sub-floor, waste line or flange are needed. This could also relate to shower leakage or occupant behavior. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair as needed.
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(B3(1)-1) Bathroom #3:
(B3(1)-1) Repair: The plastic sink in the bathroom #3 is cracked and should be replaced for reliable performance.
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(B3(1)-2) Bathroom #3:
(B3(1)-2) Repair: A slow drain was noted at the bathroom sink #3 indicating that an obstruction may exist or the venting is inadequate. I did note some gurgling / bubbling during draining, a red flag that can indicate inadequate venting. Have this drain further evaluated and repaired by a plumbing contractor.
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(B3(1)-3) Bathroom #3:
(B3(1)-3) Repair: The bathtub / shower drain in #3 is slow and appears to be obstructed. Hire a plumber to further evaluate this drain line and repair for adequate drainage.
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(B4-1) Bathroom #4:
(B4-1) Repair: The bath fan in the bath is dirty - #4. Cleaning is recommended to insure reliable performance.
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(B4-2) Bathroom #4:
(B4-2) Repair (WDO): Water damaged finishes were noted around the bath tub in bath #4 - see also high moisture meter readings. This is often caused by occupant behavior. Keep shower curtains closed and well-sealed during showering and bathing. Use of plastic diverters can help to prevent water leaking around the tub. Make efforts to keep this area dry and make cosmetic repairs as needed.
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(K-1) Kitchen:
(K-1) Repair: Corrugated waste pipe was used to drain the kitchen sink in #1 and #4. This in an unlisted plumbing product. Use smooth wall pipe only. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair as needed.
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(K-2) Kitchen:
(K-2) Repair: The kitchen sink faucet is leaking and needs to be repaired or replaced - #1.
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(K-5) Kitchen:
(K-5) Repair: Repair the damaged storage drawer below the electric range in #2.
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(K-6) Kitchen:
(K-6) Repair: Several burners are not working in the range in #3 and #1. Repair or update these ranges as needed so all burners are operational.
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(K-7) Kitchen:
(K-7) Repair: An anti-tip device is needed to prevent this range from tipping during operation of the oven door - see #3 and #1. This is a small clip that secured the back adjustable feet of the range to the floor.
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(I-1) Interior:
(I-1) Repair: A cracked tile was noted in the floor during inspection - see entry of unit #4. Have cracked tile replaced by a tile specialist.
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(I-4) Interior:
(I-4) Repair (WDO): This building has no provisions for mechanical ventilation - I did not find a 24 hour timer for a fan anywhere - perhaps I missed one? Installing a bath or laundry fan on a 24 hour timer is recommended to insure mechanical air changes. This can help keep relative humidity in check. As a general rule, keep relative humidity below 55% in cold weather to reduce chances for condensation. You can monitor relative humidity with inexpensive temperature and relative humidity gauges - I use one made by Acurite. For a nice fan system I recommend looking at Panasonic Whisper Green fans - these do not rely on a timer and run continuously to facilitate air changes. http://www.panasonic.com/business/building-products/ventilation-systems/products/whisper-green.asp
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(I-5) Interior:
(I-5) Repair: All of the fan ductwork is poorly run. I would update all bath fans with quality fans that provide reliable ventilation.
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(RA-2) Roof/Attic:
(RA-2) Repair (WDO): Repair all of the loose / poorly secured downspouts - see failing downspout at SW corner. Many of the downspouts are not well secured to the home and are vulnerable to disconnecting. This could lead to water damage. Tune up all downspouts to insure they are reliably secured.
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(EG-3) Exterior/Garage:
(EG-3) Repair (WDO): Mildew was noted to be growing on the wood outside on the eaves where the roof overhangs the building. This is from condensation and though typical, excessive mildew can be indicative of a wet lot or moisture coming off the ground around the building. When re-painting use chemicals such as bleach to kill the mildew and re-paint using mildew resistant paints. Always try and keep soils around the building as dry as possible by controlling roof and site drainage.
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(EG-4) Exterior/Garage:
(EG-4) Repair: The exterior back deck doors to both upstairs units are not closing or closing well and seem to need adjustment or updating.
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(EG-7) Exterior/Garage:
(EG-7) Repair (WDO): The water proofing for the deck is in poor condition and requires replacement. Hire a qualified general contractor familiar with deck water proofing to further evaluate this condition and repair as recommended during other deck repairs.
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(G-1) Grounds:
(G-1) Repair (WDO): Downspouts are discharging adjacent to the foundation - west side. This can cause foundation settlement or crawl space moisture problems. Make sure all downspouts discharge into a proper tight-line system or at least 5 feet away from the foundation.
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(G-2) Grounds:
(G-2) Repair: The driveway flatwork is being damaged by tree roots - see south side. This has created an un-level surface that can be a trip hazard. Repair can be complicated as the tree grows. Repair as desired and is cost effective and use caution on this walking surface.
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(G-3) Grounds:
(G-3) Repair (WDO): All trees, branches and vegetation should be pruned at least six feet away from the house to eliminate conducive pest conditions and rodent entry points. Please note that trees hanging over this house may originate on the neighbor's property. This could present some complications in tree pruning though a general precedent is that you are allowed to prune to the property line.
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(G-4) Grounds:
(G-4) Repair: The exterior front stairs are missing a graspable handrail for safety. This should be a round railing 1 and 1/4 inches - 2 inches in diameter. If the railing is not round it must have a finger groove that is 3/4 of an inch down from the tallest point of the rail. The graspable handrail should also be 1.5 inches from the wall. 2x material is not considered a graspable handrail. Have a qualified contractor build suitable railings to reduce the potential for falls.
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(G-5) Grounds:
(G-5) Repair: The guardrail system for the front stairs is inadequate and not done to modern safety standards. All stairs greater than three steps should have a guardrail with openings no larger than 4 inches - railing should be 36 inches high. Hire a licensed general contractor to further evaluate and repair.
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(G-7) Grounds:
(G-7) Repair (WDO): The deck railings require localized sanding and filling and painting - see where moss is growing out of the wood.
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(G-8) Grounds:
(G-8) Repair (WDO): The base of one of the deck posts near the laundry is rotted and requires repair as a part of other exterior carpentry and stairs repairs.
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(G-10) Grounds:
(G-10) Repair (WDO): Localized areas of rot and loose and damaged fencing was noted - see east side. This is characteristic of older fencing. Updating the fence is recommended to repair the fence and eliminate a condition conducive to wood destroying organisms.
Improves
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(SB-3) Structure and Basement:
(SB-3) Improve: As always with older homes steps can be taken to improve the seismic stability of this home. Improvements include bolting the home to the foundation, adding sheer panels to pony walls and installing positive connections between posts and beams. Consult with a licensed general contractor or company specializing in seismic retrofits to further evaluate and improve the structure.
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(CS-6) Crawl Space:
(CS-6) Improve: No positive connections were noted connecting the posts to the footings in the frame of the house. This is a standard practice in older construction, but makes the home more susceptible to seismic damage. Positive connections are recommended. Hire a general contractor to further evaluate and repair.
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(E-2) Electrical:
(E-2) Improve: AFCI (arc fault protection) is now required on all branch circuits supplying outlets or devices installed in residential dwelling unit kitchens, family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, laundry areas, and similar rooms and areas. The goal of this protection is to reduce risks of electrical fires. Consult with a licensed electrician about improving circuit protection as desired.
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(E-4) Electrical:
(E-4) Improve: This building is under-wired by modern standards, which means the wiring system may not respond well to modern electrical demands. This can present safety issues as it tends to encourage overloading of circuits and use of power strips and extension cords. This can also be inconvenient (lots of two prong receptacles). I recommend hiring a licensed electrician to further evaluate the wiring in this building and add circuits as needed for improved safety, reliability and convenience. Consider adding more circuits for the kitchen, office and media areas as well as additional lighting. Examples of some of the guidelines for minimum wiring standards in modern houses include:
- No point along a wall in habitable rooms should be more than 6-feet from an electric receptacle
- No point along kitchen countertops should be more than 2-feet from an electric receptacle
- Two 20-amp circuits for the kitchen receptacles
- One 20-amp circuit for the laundry receptacles
- One 20-amp circuit for the bathroom receptacles
- One separate, individual branch circuit for central heating equipment
- An electric receptacle should be provided for the exterior of the house at both the front and the back of the house
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(P-6) Plumbing:
(P-6) Improve: An expansion tank is recommended for the water heaters. This helps reduce pressure on the plumbing system when the pipes and water expand from heating. Installation of expansion or pressure tanks is modern installation practice and will be required if you install a pressure reducing valve. Consult with a qualified plumber to install.
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(K-3) Kitchen:
(K-3) Improve (WDO): A ductless exhaust fan was noted for the cook-top. Installation of a fan that ducts to the exterior is recommended to remove moist air to the exterior. Please note that if you switch to a gas range or cooktop in the future, a fan that ducts to the exterior is required.
Monitors
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(P-4) Plumbing:
(P-4) Monitor: Much of the waste plumbing used in this building is old. While no leaks were noted at the time of inspection, updating and on-going repairs should be expected. Old metal pipes are subject to internal corrosion which can cause problems at any time. During any renovations to the home be sure to have this old piping evaluated and updated as recommended by a licensed plumber. As a general rule the old cast iron pipe often lasts a very long time - even as much as 100 years, galvanized waste pipe can have a shorter useful service life - sometime 50 years.
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(EG-2) Exterior/Garage:
(EG-2) Monitor (WDO): Inadequate head flashings were noted - see window trim. These are important to divert water around wood trim and to prevent water from running behind the siding. No signs of leakage were found at the time of inspection. Monitor as a repair could become needed.
Due Diligences
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(SB-1) Structure and Basement:
(SB-1) Due Diligence: Parts of the foundation footing system are undermined and require improved support so that the foundation has adequate bearing onto well-compacted soils - see especially by crawl space access. This often involves digging away loose soils until firm compacted soils are reached and filling voids with concrete. Additional inspection and evaluation is needed by a qualified foundation contractor to determine a scope and urgency of repair. In general, there are a number of cracks in the foundation that are likely related to the footings being relatively shallow and on poorly compacted soils. The urgency of repair here will also relate to your long term plans for this building.
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(P-3) Plumbing:
(P-3) Due Diligence: An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. Due to the age and location of the building, a sewer scope is recommended to further evaluate the sewer line.
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(K-4) Kitchen:
(K-4) Due Diligence: Several of the electric ranges are installed right next to the wall. 6-inch clearances are recommended to prevent overheating of wall finishes, though this is usually not required by the manufacturer. Each manufacturer will have different clearance requirements, but they are often 0 for electric ranges. I would verify proper installation form the owners manual.
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(EG-5) Exterior/Garage:
(EG-5) Due Diligence: Older fire-damaged wood was noted for parts of the back deck. A few of the deck jousts have been sistered here, where another joist is added along side the other joist. This is not executed to modern prescriptive deck construction standards. Have this further investigated by a qualified contractor during other deck repairs and repair as recommended.
Future Projects
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(P-1) Plumbing:
(P-1) Future Project: Budget to replace the remaining galvanized steel supply pipe at some point in the near term and definitely during any remodel work to kitchens, laundry or bathrooms. Roughly 50% of the supply plumbing in this home appears to be galvanized steel - this is just a guess based on what is visible. The average life of this pipe can vary widely, but tends to be between 40-60 years. As this pipe gets old and corrodes, the insides of the pipe fill with rust, causing restrictions in the pipe. This can be tolerated for some time, but eventually the functional flow becomes so diminished that pipe replacement is necessary. At the time of inspection, functional flow was adequate and no active leaks were found. This condition could change or worsen at any time.
Notes
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(P-8) Plumbing:
(P-8) Note: This shows the listing plate from the water heater in #2.
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(P-10) Plumbing:
(P-10) Note: This building has a coin-operated washer and dryer system. These are beyond the scope of this inspection. I did hear from one tenant that the laundry facilities are not working well and may require repair.
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(I-3) Interior:
(I-3) Note: Please note that mold, mold testing and indoor air quality are beyond the scope of this inspection. If you are concerned about mold or indoor quality, I recommend additional inspection by a specialist. As a general rule, best practices to control mold in buildings are to spend limited resources diagnosing and repairing water problems. Where water problems are chronic, mold problems can be more complex and expensive to correct. Where water problems are localized, mold repairs tend to be more limited in scope and less complex to repair / mitigate.
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(EG-6) Exterior/Garage:
(EG-6) Note: To see a prescriptive guide for residential wood deck construction see this link: https://getscribeware.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/AWC-DCA62012-DeckGuide-1405.pdf
Structure and Basement
Foundation
% of Foundation Not Visible 30%
Evidence of Seismic Protection None noted
Building Configuration Crawl space
Foundation Description Poured concrete
(SB-1) Due Diligence: Parts of the foundation footing system are undermined and require improved support so that the foundation has adequate bearing onto well-compacted soils - see especially by crawl space access. This often involves digging away loose soils until firm compacted soils are reached and filling voids with concrete. Additional inspection and evaluation is needed by a qualified foundation contractor to determine a scope and urgency of repair. In general, there are a number of cracks in the foundation that are likely related to the footings being relatively shallow and on poorly compacted soils. The urgency of repair here will also relate to your long term plans for this building.
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Crack at west side |
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(SB-2) Repair (WDO): This foundation has old wooden form ties between the footing and the foundation stem wall. These are now rotting and could allow an opening for water or rodents. I recommend removing all old wooden foundation cleats and sealing with hydraulic cement as needed.
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Floor, Wall and Ceiling Framing
Wall Framing Not visible, 2x4
Wall Insulation Not visible
Wall Sheathing Not visible
Floor Framing Partly visible, 2x10
Sub-Floor Material Not visible, Shiplap
Ceiling Framing Not visible
(SB-3) Improve: As always with older homes steps can be taken to improve the seismic stability of this home. Improvements include bolting the home to the foundation, adding sheer panels to pony walls and installing positive connections between posts and beams. Consult with a licensed general contractor or company specializing in seismic retrofits to further evaluate and improve the structure.
Basement
None
Pests and Wood Destroying Organisms
Pests and Rodents
Present
(PWDO-1) Major Concern: Extensive rodent contamination and damage was noted in the crawl space. Hire a rodent control specialist to further evaluate and implement repairs as recommended to exclude rodents and remediate damage and contamination. Repairs should include sealing all openings, setting and monitoring traps and remediating all contamination. Once rodent contamination has been cleaned, be sure to check wiring for physical damage as rodents can chew wiring which can create unsafe conditions.
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Wood Destroying Organisms
Visible Evidence of Active Wood Destroying Insects None noted
Visible Evidence of Inactive Wood Destroying Insects None noted
Visible Evidence of Active Wood Decay and Fungi Present
Visible Evidence of Damage from Wood Destroying Organisms None noted
Visible Evidence of Conditions Conducive to Wood Destroying Organisms Present
Crawl Space
Crawl Space Access
Method of Inspection Crawled
(CS-1) Repair (WDO): Repair the wood rot at the crawl space access door - use pressure treated lumber for repairs.
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(CS-2) Repair: The crawl space access hatch does not look rodent proof. Rebuilding is recommended to eliminate a rodent entry point. A nice way to seal the opening is to build a frame of pressure treated wood that fits snugly into the opening in the foundation and then cover this with 1/4 wire mesh.
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Vapor Barrier
Vapor Barrier Material Plastic
(CS-3) Repair: The current vapor barrier in the crawl space is rodent-damaged. Replace vapor barrier. Use 6 mil black plastic to cover all exposed earth.
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Crawl Space Ventilation
Ventilation Method Exterior wall vents
(CS-4) Repair (WDO): Crawl space vents are currently blocked by insulation - NE corner. Use cardboard baffles that mount onto the floor joists to pull insulation away from the vents and allow proper ventilation. Seal up vents with 1/4 inch wire mesh to prevent rodent entry.
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(CS-5) Repair (WDO): A rodent entry point was noted at the damaged crawl space vent screen - SE corner. There are seems to be some rotted wood here. Repair the screen and wood around the vent as needed.
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Posts and Footings
Non-standard
(CS-6) Improve: No positive connections were noted connecting the posts to the footings in the frame of the house. This is a standard practice in older construction, but makes the home more susceptible to seismic damage. Positive connections are recommended. Hire a general contractor to further evaluate and repair.
Insulation
Insulation Type Fiberglass
Approximate R-Value R-19
Moisture Conditions
Present
(CS-7) Major Concern (WDO): Moderate water was noted in the crawl space. This condition may change seasonally, or with rain intensity. Moisture is bad for crawl spaces and can lead to interior molds, structural settlement and wood destroying organisms. Hire a drainage specialist or qualified contractor to further evaluate and correct this condition. Also see the Drainage section of this report for observations regarding exterior drainage repairs that are needed.
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Electrical
Service Equipment
Volts 120/240
Service Drop Underground
Meter Base Amperage 5 @ 125 amps
Service Entrance (SE) conductor Size 5 @ 1/0 Aluminum 125 amps
Main Panel Amperage 4 @ 100 amps, 1 @ 70 amps
Main Electric Panel Location Utility room
(E-1) Major Concern: A Zinsco brand electric panel was noted - actually 5 different panels were noted: 1 100 amp panel for each unit as well as 1 @ 70 amps for the house. These are an old, obsolete brand of panel with a reputation for failing and malfunctioning breakers as well as a unique bus bar configuration with a reputation for loose connections that can lead to arcing an fires. These panels are considered a latent fire hazard. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and replace this panel. A few specific observations noted during inspection include:
- Electrical service here has 5 meters
- Arcing noted on main bus bar of house panel
- Voltage was measured at 120/240 - showing 244.8 here.
- Openings were noted in this panel that need to be sealed - house panel.
- White-insulated conductors used as hots are not correctly identified.
- Long screws have been used to attach the dead front cover. This is a safety hazard.
- Wiring has not been correctly run into the panel through a concentric knockout.
- Double tapped breakers noted - one one tap / breaker unless it is an approved breaker, which these are not.
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Electrical service here has 5 meters |
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Arcing noted on main bus bar of house panel |
Voltage was measured at 120/240 - showing 244.8 here. |
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Openings were noted in this panel that need to be sealed - house panel. |
White-insulated conductors used as hots are not correctly identified. |
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Long screws have been used to attach the dead front cover. This is a safety hazard. |
Wiring has not been correctly run into the panel through a concentric knockout. |
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Double tapped breakers noted - one one tap / breaker unless it is an approved breaker, which these are not. |
(E-2) Improve: AFCI (arc fault protection) is now required on all branch circuits supplying outlets or devices installed in residential dwelling unit kitchens, family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, laundry areas, and similar rooms and areas. The goal of this protection is to reduce risks of electrical fires. Consult with a licensed electrician about improving circuit protection as desired.
Sub Panels
None noted
Branch Wiring
Wire Material Copper and Multi-strand Aluminum
Wiring Method Non-metallic sheathed cable
(E-3) Repair: Surface run non-metallic sheathed cable was noted for every bath fan. This wiring is subject to physical damage and needs to be re-run inside a wall or protected by a raceway or armory. Also, note in unit #2 the exposed wires that were not properly run into the fan fixture.
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(E-4) Improve: This building is under-wired by modern standards, which means the wiring system may not respond well to modern electrical demands. This can present safety issues as it tends to encourage overloading of circuits and use of power strips and extension cords. This can also be inconvenient (lots of two prong receptacles). I recommend hiring a licensed electrician to further evaluate the wiring in this building and add circuits as needed for improved safety, reliability and convenience. Consider adding more circuits for the kitchen, office and media areas as well as additional lighting. Examples of some of the guidelines for minimum wiring standards in modern houses include:
- No point along a wall in habitable rooms should be more than 6-feet from an electric receptacle
- No point along kitchen countertops should be more than 2-feet from an electric receptacle
- Two 20-amp circuits for the kitchen receptacles
- One 20-amp circuit for the laundry receptacles
- One 20-amp circuit for the bathroom receptacles
- One separate, individual branch circuit for central heating equipment
- An electric receptacle should be provided for the exterior of the house at both the front and the back of the house
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Some receptacles seem to have been taken out |
(E-5) Repair: Surface run non-metallic sheathed cable was noted to the kitchen fan in #3. This wiring is subject to physical damage and needs to be re-run inside a wall or protected by a raceway or armory.
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Receptacles and Fixtures
Inspection Method Random Testing
Outlets Three wire outlets
(E-6) Repair: The use of GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) protection is inconsistent with modern minimum standards for safety - see kitchen countertops especially. GFCI protection is recommended for the electrical receptacles in the following locations: all kitchen countertops, bathrooms, exterior, garage, unfinished basement, laundry and all wet and damp locations. GFCI's protect against electrocution by limiting the duration of an electrical shock. These are an important modern safety feature. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and update this home's system for improved safety.
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(E-7) Repair: The GFCI protected receptacle in bath #2 did not respond to testing and may be defective - it did not trip when tested. Have this receptacle repaired or replaced as needed.
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(E-8) Repair: Reverse polarity was noted at the electrical receptacle in the kitchen of #1. This is when the hot and the neutral have been wired backwards. This is a safety issue that should be corrected by a licensed electrician.
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Smoke and CO Alarm Systems
Non-standard
(E-9) Repair: I recommend having the smoke and carbon monoxide alarm system serviced and checked. I saw some missing smoke alarms and disabled CO alarms.
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Grounding Electrode / Conductor
Could Not Confirm
(E-10) Repair: Have the electrical bonding and grounding system checked by a licensed electrician. Adequate bonding could not be verified at the main water or the water heater and I found no ground rod outside. This is an important safety feature to prevent electrocutions and insure proper discharge of surges.
Fuel Storage and Distribution
Oil Storage
None noted
Propane Storage
None noted
Gas Meter
None noted
Heating, Cooling and Fireplaces
Heating System
Energy Source Electricity
Heating Method Electric unitary heaters
Manufacturer Mish mash of different Brands
(HCF-1) Repair: Some of the baseboard heaters in this building have electric receptacles located above the electric heater - see #2. This is not to modern electrical standards and is a latent fire hazard as electric cords can dangle over the heaters and lead to overheating. The most cost-effective way to correct this configuration is to re-locate or alter the type of heater. Often baseboard heaters are replaced with wall-mounted forced air heaters. Consult with a qualified heating contractor or electrician to further evaluate and repair.
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(HCF-2) Repair: The heating system in #4 seems to require repair. I only found one heater working in the bathroom. The unit was cold. There was a plug in heater in the bedroom. Due to all the stuff in the house, I could have missed a baseboard heater? Repair heat in this unit so all heaters are operating.
(HCF-3) Repair: The electric wall mounted forced air heater was not responding to normal operating controls and appears to be defective / inoperative - bath #3. Hire a licensed electrician to further evaluate and repair or replace this heater. I would also be sure all bathroom heaters are GFCI protected as these are in damp locations.
Cooling Systems / Heat Pumps
None Noted
Heating / Cooling Distribution Systems
Heat Source in Each Room Incomplete
Distribution Method Unitary heaters
Additional Heat Sources
None noted
Gas Fireplaces
None noted
Solid Fuel Fireplaces
None noted
Plumbing
Water Service Supply
Well or Public Supply Public
Water Pressure 70 PSI
Distribution Pipe
Pipe Insulation Present
Supply Pipe Materials Galvanized steel, Copper
Functional Flow Average
(P-1) Future Project: Budget to replace the remaining galvanized steel supply pipe at some point in the near term and definitely during any remodel work to kitchens, laundry or bathrooms. Roughly 50% of the supply plumbing in this home appears to be galvanized steel - this is just a guess based on what is visible. The average life of this pipe can vary widely, but tends to be between 40-60 years. As this pipe gets old and corrodes, the insides of the pipe fill with rust, causing restrictions in the pipe. This can be tolerated for some time, but eventually the functional flow becomes so diminished that pipe replacement is necessary. At the time of inspection, functional flow was adequate and no active leaks were found. This condition could change or worsen at any time.
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Looks like steel pipe still running to sinks and toilets where visible. |
Steel pipe in laundry |
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Copper pipe to water heaters |
Old steel pipe to the toilet in #4 |
(P-2) Repair: The Polybutylene (PB, gray plastic) supply hoses and angle stops noted below several sinks are an unreliable plumbing product with a reputation for failing fittings - see below kitchen sink in #3. Updating to copper or braided steel supply hoses and new angle stops is recommended. These are common to find in 1990's era buildings. Consult with a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair.
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Waste Pipe and Discharge
Discharge Type Public sewer
Waste and Vent Pipe Materials ABS plastic, Copper
(P-3) Due Diligence: An evaluation of the sewer line below the ground is beyond the scope of this inspection. Due to the age and location of the building, a sewer scope is recommended to further evaluate the sewer line.
(P-4) Monitor: Much of the waste plumbing used in this building is old. While no leaks were noted at the time of inspection, updating and on-going repairs should be expected. Old metal pipes are subject to internal corrosion which can cause problems at any time. During any renovations to the home be sure to have this old piping evaluated and updated as recommended by a licensed plumber. As a general rule the old cast iron pipe often lasts a very long time - even as much as 100 years, galvanized waste pipe can have a shorter useful service life - sometime 50 years.
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Water Heater #1
System Type Tank
Manufacturer GE
Size 50 gal
Age 2011
Energy Source Electricity
Temperature Pressure Relief Value Present - Not Tested
(P-5) Repair: Install listed seismic straps to support the water heaters in the event of an earthquake; none were noted during inspection on any of the water heaters. Two straps should be located on each water heater: one on upper 1/3rd of tank and one at the lower 1/3rd.
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(P-6) Improve: An expansion tank is recommended for the water heaters. This helps reduce pressure on the plumbing system when the pipes and water expand from heating. Installation of expansion or pressure tanks is modern installation practice and will be required if you install a pressure reducing valve. Consult with a qualified plumber to install.
(P-7) Repair: The discharge tubes for the water heater relief valves are inadequate only one of the water heaters has a proper discharge tube. Discharge tubes should always terminate by pointing toward the ground to eliminate a scald hazard and should be between 6" and 18" off the ground. Ideally, the discharge tube terminates to an exterior or unfinished location or above a drain, though this is not always possible. The drain should also slope to drain to prevent water pooling inside the discharge tube.
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Water Heater #2
System Type Tank
Manufacturer GE
Size 40 gal
Age 2007
Energy Source Electricity
Temperature Pressure Relief Value Present - Not Tested
Temperature 120 Degrees F
(P-8) Note: This shows the listing plate from the water heater in #2.
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Water Heater #3
System Type Tank
Manufacturer GE
Size 50 gal
Age 2012
Energy Source Electricity
Temperature Pressure Relief Value Present - Not Tested
Water Heater #4
System Type Tank
Manufacturer GE
Size 50 gal
Age 2008
Energy Source Electricity
Temperature Pressure Relief Value Present - Not Tested
Exterior Hose Bibs
Operating
(P-9) Repair: The hose bib at the east side is poorly mounted to the siding. This could cause leaks in the siding around the hose bib and could allow the hose bib to become loose during operation. Hose bibs should be securely mounted to blocks that are lead into the siding and which are properly flashed or caulked.
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Additional Sinks
None noted
Sewage Ejector Pumps
None noted
Sump Pumps and Drains
Floor Drain None noted
Sump Pumps None noted
Washer
Not tested
(P-10) Note: This building has a coin-operated washer and dryer system. These are beyond the scope of this inspection. I did hear from one tenant that the laundry facilities are not working well and may require repair.
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Dryer
Not tested
Power Source Electric
Duct to Exterior Ducted
(P-11) Repair: The exterior dryer exhaust duct cover is missing a baffle. This vent cover needs to be repaired or replaced so that a baffle covers the opening when the dryer is not in use. Please note that a screened cover is not recommended for dryer exhaust duct terminations as this can trap lint.
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(P-12) Repair: Plastic dryer transition duct was noted in use to connect the dryer to the rigid vent. This product is not recommended as it has proven to be unreliable and a potential fire hazard. Improvement to a corrugated metal flex duct is recommended.
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Additional Plumbing
None noted
Bathroom #1
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
(B1(1)-1) Repair: The stopper to the bathroom sink is missing - install proper stopper system.
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Toilet
Tested
General Bath Condition
Standard
Bathroom #2
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
(B2(1)-1) Repair: The bathroom toilet in #2 needs to be reset and the wax ring and flange should be inspected and replaced as needed to prevent hidden plumbing leaks. High moisture meter readings were taken around the toilet, indicating there is a possibly of hidden water damage. It is difficult to determine the extent of needed repairs without further investigation. The toilet appears to be well mounted as it is not very loose on the floor. Repairs can be as simple as replacing a wax ring and caulking or more complex if repair of the bolts, sub-floor, waste line or flange are needed. This could also relate to shower leakage or occupant behavior. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair as needed.
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General Bath Condition
Standard
Bathroom #3
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
(B3(1)-1) Repair: The plastic sink in the bathroom #3 is cracked and should be replaced for reliable performance.
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(B3(1)-2) Repair: A slow drain was noted at the bathroom sink #3 indicating that an obstruction may exist or the venting is inadequate. I did note some gurgling / bubbling during draining, a red flag that can indicate inadequate venting. Have this drain further evaluated and repaired by a plumbing contractor.
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
(B3(1)-3) Repair: The bathtub / shower drain in #3 is slow and appears to be obstructed. Hire a plumber to further evaluate this drain line and repair for adequate drainage.
Bathroom Ventilation
Type Fan and window
General Bath Condition
Standard
Bathroom #4
Sinks and Cabinets
Tested
Toilet
Tested
Bathtub / Shower
Tested
Bathroom Ventilation
Type Fan and window
(B4-1) Repair: The bath fan in the bath is dirty - #4. Cleaning is recommended to insure reliable performance.
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General Bath Condition
Standard
(B4-2) Repair (WDO): Water damaged finishes were noted around the bath tub in bath #4 - see also high moisture meter readings. This is often caused by occupant behavior. Keep shower curtains closed and well-sealed during showering and bathing. Use of plastic diverters can help to prevent water leaking around the tub. Make efforts to keep this area dry and make cosmetic repairs as needed.
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Kitchen
Sinks and Faucets
Tested
(K-1) Repair: Corrugated waste pipe was used to drain the kitchen sink in #1 and #4. This in an unlisted plumbing product. Use smooth wall pipe only. Hire a licensed plumber to further evaluate and repair as needed.
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(K-2) Repair: The kitchen sink faucet is leaking and needs to be repaired or replaced - #1.
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Cabinets and Countertops
Countertop Material Tile, Plastic laminate
Cabinet Material Wood laminate
Ventilation Method
None noted, Ductless fan
(K-3) Improve (WDO): A ductless exhaust fan was noted for the cook-top. Installation of a fan that ducts to the exterior is recommended to remove moist air to the exterior. Please note that if you switch to a gas range or cooktop in the future, a fan that ducts to the exterior is required.
Appliances
Refrigerator Operating
Range/ Oven /Cook-tops Electric
(K-4) Due Diligence: Several of the electric ranges are installed right next to the wall. 6-inch clearances are recommended to prevent overheating of wall finishes, though this is usually not required by the manufacturer. Each manufacturer will have different clearance requirements, but they are often 0 for electric ranges. I would verify proper installation form the owners manual.
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This shows unit #2 |
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(K-5) Repair: Repair the damaged storage drawer below the electric range in #2.
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(K-6) Repair: Several burners are not working in the range in #3 and #1. Repair or update these ranges as needed so all burners are operational.
(K-7) Repair: An anti-tip device is needed to prevent this range from tipping during operation of the oven door - see #3 and #1. This is a small clip that secured the back adjustable feet of the range to the floor.
General Kitchen Condition
Standard
Interior
Floors
Floor Materials Plastic sheet goods, Wood Laminate, Carpet, Tile
Floor Settlement Moderate
(I-1) Repair: A cracked tile was noted in the floor during inspection - see entry of unit #4. Have cracked tile replaced by a tile specialist.
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Walls, Ceilings and Closets
Wall and Ceiling Materials Drywall
(I-2) Major Concern (WDO): High relative humidity was noted inside the building during inspection today. Any time a building has consistently high relative humidity conditions are conducive to molds and wood destroying organisms. Mold-like substances were noted in virtually every unit today. The condition is likely chronic from the drainage situation as well as old construction and no proper air barrier between the crawl space and the house. To repair, the crawl space needs to be dried out and an air barrier installed in the sub-floor. Indoor bath fans can also be added and employed where needed to facilitate air changes and dry out the home. I recommend consulting with an indoor air quality specialist or a qualified contractor about options for repair and remediation of all mold-like substances and control of indoor relative humidity. Examples of some observations during inspection include:
- Condensation noted on most windows
- Sweating at the toilet tank
- Molds and condensation at an exterior door
- Molds on the sheetrock in a bathroom
- Note the black stains on the sub-floor insulation which indicate air leakage through the sub-floor.
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Condensation noted on most windows |
Sweating at the toilet tank |
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Molds and condensation at an exterior door |
Molds on the sheetrock in a bathroom |
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Note the black stains on the sub-floor insulation which indicate air leakage through the sub-floor. |
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(I-3) Note: Please note that mold, mold testing and indoor air quality are beyond the scope of this inspection. If you are concerned about mold or indoor quality, I recommend additional inspection by a specialist. As a general rule, best practices to control mold in buildings are to spend limited resources diagnosing and repairing water problems. Where water problems are chronic, mold problems can be more complex and expensive to correct. Where water problems are localized, mold repairs tend to be more limited in scope and less complex to repair / mitigate.
Stairs and Railings
None
Interior Doors
Hollow Core
Windows
Window Glazing Double pane
Interior Window Frame Vinyl
Window Styles Sliding
Mechanical Ventilation
(I-4) Repair (WDO): This building has no provisions for mechanical ventilation - I did not find a 24 hour timer for a fan anywhere - perhaps I missed one? Installing a bath or laundry fan on a 24 hour timer is recommended to insure mechanical air changes. This can help keep relative humidity in check. As a general rule, keep relative humidity below 55% in cold weather to reduce chances for condensation. You can monitor relative humidity with inexpensive temperature and relative humidity gauges - I use one made by Acurite. For a nice fan system I recommend looking at Panasonic Whisper Green fans - these do not rely on a timer and run continuously to facilitate air changes. http://www.panasonic.com/business/building-products/ventilation-systems/products/whisper-green.asp
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Condensation and molds noted around windows in basically every unit. |
(I-5) Repair: All of the fan ductwork is poorly run. I would update all bath fans with quality fans that provide reliable ventilation.
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Roof/Attic
Roof Materials
Method of Roof Inspection Walked on roof
Roof Style Low slope
Roof Materials Single Ply
Approximate Age of Roof 10-15 Years
(RA-1) Major Concern (WDO): The roofing material on this building appears to be a single ply roof membrane, it looks roughly 10-15 years old. These are often rated as 20-50 years roofs; service life depends on the thickness of the membrane as well as the quality of the installation. This installation is holing loads of water and there is evidence of active roof leakage - see infrared images of thermal anomalies as well as moisture meter readings in the ceiling of unit #4. I recommend additional inspection of this roof by a qualified roofing contractor. Repair or replace this roof as recommended to insure reliable performance and repair all water damaged materials inside as needed. Examples of red flags and defects found during inspection include:
- Lots of organic debris and ponding on the roof
- Water stains near 5the entry door in #4
- Water stains above the entry door in #4
- Looks as though water leaked into this light at some point #4
- High moisture meter readings in kitchen. #4
- Signs of white fungal rot visible through east side soffit vent.
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I tested these anomalies with a moisture meter and found high readings. |
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Lots of organic debris and ponding on the roof |
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Water stains near 5the entry door in #4 |
Water stains above the entry door in #4 |
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Looks as though water leaked into this light at some point #4 |
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High moisture meter readings in kitchen. #4 |
Mold staining at the eaves could be from leaks or condensation - difficult to tell for sure. |
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High moisture meter readings in the eaves in places |
Signs of white fungal rot visible through east side soffit vent. |
Skylights
None noted
Gutters and Downspouts
Internal scupper drains
(RA-2) Repair (WDO): Repair all of the loose / poorly secured downspouts - see failing downspout at SW corner. Many of the downspouts are not well secured to the home and are vulnerable to disconnecting. This could lead to water damage. Tune up all downspouts to insure they are reliably secured.
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Attic Access
No access. Vaulted ceiling
Roof Framing and Sheathing
Rafters Not visible
Sheathing Not visible
Attic Insulation
Insulation Type No access - vaulted ceiling
Attic and Roof Cavity Ventilation
Attic Ventilation Method Soffit vents
Exterior/Garage
Siding and Trim
Trim Material Wood
Siding Material Beveled cedar
(EG-1) Major Concern (WDO): The exterior siding needs to be re-painted in the near term - see especially the exposed gable ends.
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(EG-2) Monitor (WDO): Inadequate head flashings were noted - see window trim. These are important to divert water around wood trim and to prevent water from running behind the siding. No signs of leakage were found at the time of inspection. Monitor as a repair could become needed.
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Example of a head flashing |
Eaves
Open rafters
(EG-3) Repair (WDO): Mildew was noted to be growing on the wood outside on the eaves where the roof overhangs the building. This is from condensation and though typical, excessive mildew can be indicative of a wet lot or moisture coming off the ground around the building. When re-painting use chemicals such as bleach to kill the mildew and re-paint using mildew resistant paints. Always try and keep soils around the building as dry as possible by controlling roof and site drainage.
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Exterior Doors
Hollow core
(EG-4) Repair: The exterior back deck doors to both upstairs units are not closing or closing well and seem to need adjustment or updating.
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Exterior Window Frames
Vinyl
Decks and Balconies
Present
Deck Structure Non-treated lumber
Deck Ledger Board Non-standard
Guardrail Non-standard
Decking Material Elastomeric over plywood
(EG-5) Due Diligence: Older fire-damaged wood was noted for parts of the back deck. A few of the deck jousts have been sistered here, where another joist is added along side the other joist. This is not executed to modern prescriptive deck construction standards. Have this further investigated by a qualified contractor during other deck repairs and repair as recommended.
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(EG-6) Note: To see a prescriptive guide for residential wood deck construction see this link: https://getscribeware.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/AWC-DCA62012-DeckGuide-1405.pdf
(EG-7) Repair (WDO): The water proofing for the deck is in poor condition and requires replacement. Hire a qualified general contractor familiar with deck water proofing to further evaluate this condition and repair as recommended during other deck repairs.
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Porches
None noted
Chimneys
None noted
Garage
None noted
Grounds
Drainage and Lot Location
Clearance to Grade Standard
Downspout Discharge Above and below grade
Lot Description Flat
(G-1) Repair (WDO): Downspouts are discharging adjacent to the foundation - west side. This can cause foundation settlement or crawl space moisture problems. Make sure all downspouts discharge into a proper tight-line system or at least 5 feet away from the foundation.
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Driveways/Walkways/Flatwork
Driveway Asphalt
Walkways Concrete
Patios Concrete
(G-2) Repair: The driveway flatwork is being damaged by tree roots - see south side. This has created an un-level surface that can be a trip hazard. Repair can be complicated as the tree grows. Repair as desired and is cost effective and use caution on this walking surface.
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Window and Stairwells
None Noted
Grounds, Trees and Vegetation
Trees/Vegetation too near building Yes
(G-3) Repair (WDO): All trees, branches and vegetation should be pruned at least six feet away from the house to eliminate conducive pest conditions and rodent entry points. Please note that trees hanging over this house may originate on the neighbor's property. This could present some complications in tree pruning though a general precedent is that you are allowed to prune to the property line.
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Retaining Walls
None noted
Exterior Stairs
Non-standard
(G-4) Repair: The exterior front stairs are missing a graspable handrail for safety. This should be a round railing 1 and 1/4 inches - 2 inches in diameter. If the railing is not round it must have a finger groove that is 3/4 of an inch down from the tallest point of the rail. The graspable handrail should also be 1.5 inches from the wall. 2x material is not considered a graspable handrail. Have a qualified contractor build suitable railings to reduce the potential for falls.
(G-5) Repair: The guardrail system for the front stairs is inadequate and not done to modern safety standards. All stairs greater than three steps should have a guardrail with openings no larger than 4 inches - railing should be 36 inches high. Hire a licensed general contractor to further evaluate and repair.
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More than 4 inches between stairs and guardrail |
The openings between stairs exceed 4 inches |
(G-6) Major Concern: Corrosion was noted on the metal stairs. In places this is progressed. Difficult to predict when this will become a structural hazard,. I recommend additional inspection of the metal stairs by a qualified contractor. Repair or replace the stairs as recommended.
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(G-7) Repair (WDO): The deck railings require localized sanding and filling and painting - see where moss is growing out of the wood.
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(G-8) Repair (WDO): The base of one of the deck posts near the laundry is rotted and requires repair as a part of other exterior carpentry and stairs repairs.
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(G-9) Major Concern (WDO): The SW corner of the entry deck is rotting and requires immediate water damage repair to insure safe performance from this deck. I would consider removing this odd enclosed storage space.
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Rot in plywood |
Fences
Partial fencing noted
(G-10) Repair (WDO): Localized areas of rot and loose and damaged fencing was noted - see east side. This is characteristic of older fencing. Updating the fence is recommended to repair the fence and eliminate a condition conducive to wood destroying organisms.
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Receipt -- Four-Plex Inspection
Inspection with digital report | $950.00 |
$950.00 |
Orca Inspection Services LLC
C/O Dylan Chalk
5761 NE Tolo Rd
Bainbridge Island, WA , WA 98110
(206) 713-5715