DEFICIENCIES

• G-2 Grounds:

  It appeared that stormwater was pooling against the residence as a result of the level and slope of the landscaping on the south side. I could not see a stormwater drain. There are none shown on the drawings either. As a preventive measure drainage and/or grading conditions at these areas should be improved upon to prevent this condition from occurring.

  • This area probably becomes a pond when it rains until the stormwater drains away.
  • A definite area where the water had been pooling. Note the sewage inspection eye!
  • The water must collect and flow in here!
  • The shelf the dry stack feature was founded on had no slope away from the wall. I hope waterproofing was done between the dry stack feature and the back wall! Moisture intrusion was noted inside the domestic quarters.
  • Another view of the shelf.
  • A definite area where the water had been pooling. Note the moisture damage on the wall!
  • Note the moisture damage on the wall!
• G-8 Grounds:

  There was foliage growing against the walls of the patio on the north side of the residence that should be removed or trimmed back to help prevent moisture intrusion into the plastered walls. Trees and shrubbery will retain water and cast shade on the walls preventing the drying out of the walls. This allows the walls to become saturated with moisture. In addition, the root systems may leach moisture from under the residence and cause of damage as a result of subsidence to the foundations and/or the structure.

• G-9 Grounds:

  The top of the plastered and painted yard and boundary walls were not waterproofed. Normally the tops of free standing walls should have a capping or be waterproofed with a waterproofing system to prevent moisture penetration into the walls. With plastered walls the plasterwork on top of the walls often cracks allowing the passage of water into the walls. I would recommend that the top of the walls be waterproofed to prevent efflorescence and further moisture damage to the walls. An acrylic waterproofing system is normally used.

• G-10 Grounds:

  The control joints provided vertically along the walls were not ruled all the way through the plasterwork onto the brickwork as required. Ruling the joint onto the brick backing allows the thermal movement in the structure to crack in the joint in the brickwork and not around the shallow formed joint in the plasterwork. As the joints have not been sealed, I suggest this repair work to the joints are done. All control joints in the wall wall should be sealed to prevent moisture intrusion into the walls and moisture damage. Other defects are also noted below. Read about joints in walls.

• R-2 Roof:

  Clean organic debris from the roof to insure unrestricted paths for roof drainage. This is routine maintenance that should be part of a regular maintenance schedule.

  • Debris and leaves on the roof which can cause the roof to leak. All debris and leaves should be removed from the roofs and the trees should be cut back.
  • More debris and leaves on the roof which can cause the roof to leak.
  • The trees should be cut back from the roof or removed completely. Roof will leak at the side laps if the flow of rainwater is interrupted.
  • A closer look at some of the roof sheeting revealed sealed fasteners and washers. This is normally done when the fasteners and washers start to corrode and the rubber gaskets deteriorate causing the roof to leak.
  • A close up of the problem that trees cause.
• R-4 Roof:

  There was probably no chimney crown installed on top of the chimney. Crowns are a cement and sand topping sloped to away to the sides of the chimney to prevent prevent moisture intrusion into the metal chimney cap or brickwork and possible damage to the chimney walls and fireplace. This had facilitated corrosion of the cap and possibly leakage inside the chimney. Have this chimney top and cap further evaluated and repaired.

• R-5 Roof:

  Repair all of the loose/poorly secured downpipes. Many of the downpipes were not properly secured to the walls and were vulnerable to disconnecting and damage should they fall. This could lead to water damage on the walls. Check and repair all downpipes to insure they are reliably secured.

  • The downpipe was not secured to the wall at all. it was hanging from the gutter.
  • Midway up the downpipe the gutter bracket had pulled loose.
  • The bracket had separated from the downpipe.
  • A long length of downpipe without a bracket.
• R-6 Roof:

  The gutters and hopper boxes were clogged with organic debris and required cleaning and an all-around repairs as multiple places were noted where gutters and downpipes were leaking and not sloped to drain. Clean the gutters and implement tune-up repairs to insure they are unobstructed, well fastened, leak free and sloped to drain.

  • This gutter will overflow onto the walls and elements of the roof trusses.
  • Water, leaves and dust will build up a layer of muck allowing water to pool in the gutters.
  • Blocked hopper boxes will spill water onto the wall and cause moisture intrusion at the box against the wall.
  • Leaking gutter and downpipe joints from deteriorating sealants.
  • Downpipe shoes allow the rainwater to be jetted away from the walls. Note the stained wall.
  • Leaking at gutter joint.
  • Crack at the fascia board against the wall.
  • Sealant on gutter?
  • It appeared this gutter had been painted with a waterproofing compound. The gutters in this area must have leaked at some stage.
• R-8 Roof:

  The trap door in the main en-suite bathroom was damaged. The trap door should be repaired.

• SB-3 Structure and Basement:

  Externally cracks and crack repairs were noticeable on the exterior walls. Considering the size of the house, the structure has performed very well. None of the cracks appeared to be structurally significant. Cracks less than 5 mm width are regarded as minor cracks. The cracks and repairs should be monitored for further movement. If they continue to show further widening, I would suggest you consult a structural engineer. In any event, cracks allow moisture intrusion into the structure and should always be sealed.

  • Horizontal crack at the main bedroom balcony.
  • Crack at the gym window.
  • Repaired cracks between the study and gym that have cracked again.
  • Patched crack on the study wall next to the window.

  • Cracks at the double volume covered porch. These appear to be moisture related and were probably only plaster cracks. Note the stains on the corbelling.

  • Double volume porch at the main bedroom balcony side. Again, the cracking appeared to be moisture related.
  • Crack at the covered patio and balcony above. The top cracks were moisture related.
  • Crack on the north side of the covered patio.
  • Yard wall at Domestic quarters. This was the only crack that appeared to be around 5 mm.
• EG-2 Exterior/Garage:

  Minor plaster cracks were visible in many places on the external walls. Most were less than 0.5 mm that can be attributed to thermal movement of the walls on the house. These cracks had no structural significance. A coat of paint would seal these. All cracks will allow moisture intrusion into the structure and should always be sealed. Find out what the manufacturer's colour code is from the seller. Always keep a pot of paint and a long ladder available to seal these cracks. Read how to feather a new coat of paint onto an old coat of paint.

  • Fine cracking in the plasterwork surround of a window. Note the paint pushing off the wall. That's what happens when water gets in the crack.
  • fine plaster cracks in plasterwork should be sealed.
  • Bubbling paintwork where fine cracks will start to appear. Here the moisture in the wall may have been caused by moisture entering cracked paintwork higher up or lower down.
  • The paint either bubbles and then it cracks or the plaster cracks and the pain bubbles. Which ever way it occurs it needs to be sealed to prevent further damage.
  • These are all plaster cracks that have not been properly sealed and then painted. This is a problem with preparation before painting.
• EG-3 Exterior/Garage:

  There was noticeable moisture damage on the plastered and painted finish of the external walls of the residence that will require repair. The moisture intrusion was evidenced by the presence of rising damp, manifesting as moisture damaged plasterwork and the bubbling and flaking of the paint finish in the lower portions of the walls. Normally rising damp will not rise more than 1 metre above the DPC. Repairing the areas of hollow, loose or damaged plasterwork will require the removing of the bubbling paintwork, hollow and deteriorated plasterwork. The remedial plasterwork below the floor level should incorporating a salt inhibitor and a waterproof additive. If plasterwork above floor level is repaired, make sure that the plasterwork is jointed horizontally through to the brickwork at the DPC (damp proof course) level to prevent rising damp bridging the DPC into the superstructure above.

  • Rising damp from the pooling of water in this area.
  • The front entrance had rising damp as well.
  • The southwest corner of the residence had bubbling and flaking paintwork.
  • The stair and threshold of the scullery was moisture damaged. Note the hole next to the step and the rising damp in the wall.
  • The other side of the step and threshold. the plasterwork on the riser of the step had been repaired previously.
  • Rising damp in the wall of the scullery and domestic quarters. Note the white powder called efflorescence in places which is deposited when the moisture in the wall evaporates.
  • A reading on setting 1 of 41% - normal "dry" walls are between 8% to 9%.
  • High but not as bad as the previous measurement.
  • The stair and threshold of the domestic quarters step was moisture damaged.
  • Rising damp of the south side of the domestic quarters.
  • Rising damp in the same area of the domestic quarters near the yard wall.
• EG-4 Exterior/Garage:

  There appeared to be have been rising damp on external face of the plastered and painted walls at east and west side the residence that will need to be monitored. This was evidenced by the patched, re-plastered and painted sections on the lower portions of walls above the paving or ground level.

  • Patching on the east side.
  • The whole lower section appeared to have been patched here on the east side.
  • On the west side there was a clear difference in the shade of paint.
  • The northwest corner of the residence. Note the patched paintwork.
  • A big patch on the west side.
• EG-5 Exterior/Garage:

  Balconies are often water traps because the tops of walls are not waterproofed and the waterproofing under the tiles is not properly sealed into the spout. Other problems are listed below.

  • Crack between wall and column. The wall was not bonded into the column.
  • Slab level of the balcony can be seen here because of the moisture intrusion through the crack between the column and wall.
  • An area which will allow moisture into the wall.
  • These places must be sealed to prevent moisture intrusion into the walls.
  • On the ends of the balconies it appeared that the plastered brick wall was built up after the column had been built without properly bonding into the column resulting in the crack you see here.
  • Sealing was required here.
  • The sealing was missing here. It was neatly sealed around the balustrade stanchion.
  • Sealed on top but not here!
• EG-6 Exterior/Garage:

  The dry stack feature wall on the east wall of the domestic quarters finished very close to the ground level of the feature garden. The shelf that supported the dry stack wall was not sloped to dispel water away. Moisture control with exterior dry stack walls is very important. If the back wall and shelf of support wall has not been properly waterproofed, moisture intrusion into the building can be expected. During the inspection of the domestic quarters moisture intrusion was observed. A solution for the moisture intrusion is difficult to suggest. You can try sealing the a few of the bottom rows of dry stack stones with a clear silicon and wait to see if it works. It it doesn't I suggest you remove the stones, waterproof as required and have the wall rebuilt.

• EG-12 Exterior/Garage:

  The scullery door frame was damaged at the striker plate. The timber frame should be properly repaired with a timber section by an qualified carpenter/joiner and a striker plate fitted.

• EG-13 Exterior/Garage:

  A sliding/folding door in the covered patio was difficult to operate and was hooking on the bottom of the door frame. One of the sliding mechanisms was faulty. The mechanism will need replacement and door will require adjustment to open and close properly.

• EG-14 Exterior/Garage:

  The door stop on the sliding door was missing. The stop should be installed to prevent the sliding door banging against the sliding door frame.

• EG-15 Exterior/Garage:

  The door handle was loose on the exterior door of bedroom 3 and required adjustment/repair.

• EG-17 Exterior/Garage:

  I noted that the sealant on some windows had failed and may be susceptible to leakage. I suggest that you have all windows checked and sealed all around the window frames especially at the window sills to prevent moisture intrusion at the windows.

• EG-18 Exterior/Garage:

  There was a gap at the top of the window sash and window frame in the gym when it was closed. The window sash will require adjustment or replacement.

• EG-20 Exterior/Garage:

  Gaps between the tiling and the residence's walls. This will allow moisture intrusion into the surface bed and the filling below. This may eventually cause subsidence of the concrete slab and tiling and also rising damp. The gaps should be sealed up.

• EG-21 Exterior/Garage:

  No expansion joints have been provided in the external floor tile work on the open verandah. Changes in the ambient temperature of the environment in which the tiles have been installed can lead to failure of the bond between the tiles and the levelling screed. During the course of a regular day, significant variation in temperatures experienced by the tiles will cause thermal expansion. It does not take much movement to cause a failure in the tile or joints. Externally, the size of any one area of tiles should not exceed 8 metres in any one direction. Expansion joints should also be provided at the perimeter of tiled floors to isolated the tiled area from adjoining hard surfaces and between the tiles and walls. I recommend you have a tiler install expansion joints in your external north facing tiled floors. Areas of the tile jointing on the tiled verandah floor was missing or cracked and required cleaning out and re-jointing.

• EG-23 Exterior/Garage:

  Gaps between the tiling and the residence's walls. This will allow moisture intrusion into the surface bed and the filling below. This may eventually cause subsidence of the concrete slab and tiling and also rising damp. The gaps should be sealed up.

  • Gaps between the floor tiles and column. Note the bubbling paintwork on the column.
  • Gaps between the floor tiles and column. Note the patched plaster and paintwork on the column.
  • Gaps between the floor tiles and the column. Note the new paintwork on the wall.
  • Gaps between the floor tiles and the residence. Note the bubbling paintwork in the wall.
• EG-24 Exterior/Garage:

  One of the main issues that water pooling on your tile flooring is that it can make it loosen up over time. That’s because the adhesive that’s holding your tiles into position will slowly be deteriorated by the presence of excess moisture. One of the first things that you should do is make sure that water isn’t allowed to pool on top of your tiles for very long. Water that has found its way underneath ceramic tiles after a leak can do damage to the sub-floor and the tile itself. Water left to stand underneath ceramic tiles will eventually compromise the structure of the tile itself, causing it to crack or break. Rainwater was pooling on the balcony floor tiling. The planters that were allowed to stand on the tiling retain water that will seep into the tiles and substructure. They should be provided with drainage plates or lifted off the tiling on pot stands.

  • Water pooling on paving will eventually loosen the tiles.
  • Water pooling on the tiles. Note the rising damp.
  • Drainage saucer required to prevent moisture intrusion.
  • The tiles were badly stained at and under the flower pots.
  • Soil deposited on the tiles and water retained by pot will caused damage to the tiling.
  • Water standing at the rainwater spout because the spout was partially blocked. Note the cracked tile.
  • An attempt to seal the joint between the tile and tile skirting. An obvious place where the water has been pooling. Rather have the water swept away after each rainstorm.
  • Tile joints should be checked regularly and re-grouted if the existing grout is failing.
• EG-25 Exterior/Garage:

  The balcony parapet dwarf walls should be properly waterproofed. Tiles and tile joints are nor waterproof. Rainwater will eventually cause the tiles to loosen.

• EG-26 Exterior/Garage:

  Rainwater was leaking past the garage doors into the garage. The threshold was not stepped down slightly or sloped sufficiently at the doors to prevent water from leaking under and at the sides of the door.

• I-2 Interior:

  The cracking in the tiles was not structurally significant but rather an indication of poor tile preparation below the tile.

  • An area at the column between the dining room and lounge where water collected after mopping. Note the cracked tile.
  • The cracking extended through along from the column to the lounge.
  • A fine crack like this is normally in a area where the tile adhesive and tiling was faulty and aggravated by moisture.
• I-3 Interior:

  Damage to laminate flooring in the main bedroom. The damage appeared to originate from the "hers"side of the bathroom. This could have been from a leak at one of the basins or a water supply line leaking in the wall. Inquire from the seller as to whether a repair was done in this area.

• I-6 Interior:

  There were a few areas where damp was found internally in the residence. These were mostly due to external factors:

  • Moisture intrusion at the front door sidelight.
  • The dwarf wall between the entrance hall and the dining room was moisture stained. The wall was probably not waterproofed to prevent moisture from the compacted filling leaching through the wall.
  • Damp area in the transition between the entrance hall and the dining room.
  • The moisture reading on the moisture meter on setting 1 was 18.7%. The moisture content of a normal wall is between 8% to 9%.
  • Moisture damage at the skirting at door on the west side of the lounge.
  • Moisture staining was observed on the wall behind the green board on the garage wall more or less where the guest shower is. Other areas of the wall could not be checked because of the lack of access. Goods were stored against the walls. The moisture reading there was 14.9%.
  • Dining room window. Eternally there was the rising damp.
  • North side window in the covered porch. The covered porch area was a damp problem!
  • The window at the gym had moisture intrusion.
  • Moisture staining on the wall paper.
  • A whole area of the wall paper had come loose.
  • Moisture staining on the wall paper. Note the joint in the wall paper.
  • Damp on the east wall of the domestic quarters. More than likely as a result of the dry stack wall.
  • Skirting and wall damage in the domestic bathroom wall against the storeroom.
  • Moisture damage to the wallpaper at the cornice in the main bedroom.
  • Wallpaper was de-bonding at the joint in the wall paper in the main bedroom.
  • There were a couple of these stain marks along the north wall of the main bedroom. Probably as a result of gutters blocked and running over!
• I-8 Interior:

  There was moisture damage evidenced by nail pops and indentations and slight deviations on the ceilings and cracks at cornices of the residence. The seller's disclosure should be consulted to see if the cause of the moisture damage was noted and what possible repairs were made. The defects to the ceilings appeared to have occurred from a geyser leak or burst at some stage. Some of the damage may also have resulted from blocked gutters and downpipes. The damage was not serious but unsightly. Sealing ,patching and painting would resolve most of the defects.

  • Ceiling of the double volume covered porch.
  • Wavy ceiling in the domestic quarters.
  • Ceiling crack in the gym.
  • cracked cornice in the gym.
  • Hole in the ground floor ceiling at the chimney cover plate of the stove heater.
  • Ceiling defect in the corner of the column in the covered patio.
  • crack between ceiling boards on the 1st floor.
  • Crack between the ceiling and cornice on the 1st floor.
  • Cracked cornice at the trap door in the passage.
  • Nail pop indicating minor moisture damage.
  • Defective ceiling patch in the bedroom 3.
  • A perfect example of a nail-pops on a section of ceiling.
• I-13 Interior:

  The guest bedroom door was warped in the frame. The door closed and opened properly with some effort. The door may need to be refitted.

• S-1 Scullery:

  The scullery sink was poorly sealed to the counter top. This could allow water to penetrate under the sink and eventually damage the counter top and cabinet beneath. Have this properly sealed to insure the sink is adequately mounted and sealed.

• S-3 Scullery:

  The side panel between the fridges was moisture damaged. The bottom of the panel should be sanded down and painted to prevent further damage.

• S-4 Scullery:

  The sink disposer was not tested. Inquire from the seller whether it is operational or requires repair or replacement.

• DK-3 Domestic Kitchen:

  The bottom shelf of the sink cabinet was moisture damaged and stained. The damage could be as a result of a leaking trap and lack of a proper seal between the sink counter and wall. The sink was filled and allowed to drain. No leaks were observed at the time of the inspection.

• DB3-2 Domestic Bathroom:

  The basin should be sealed against the wall to prevent moisture intrusion into the wall and floor.

• DB3-6 Domestic Bathroom:

  The bathroom was in a reasonable condition with some wear and cosmetic damage that is commensurate with the age of the residence.

• GWC2-2 Guest W.C.:

  The basin should be sealed against the wall to prevent moisture intrusion into the wall and floor.

• GWC2-5 Guest W.C.:

  The shower head in the bathroom was facing the door to enter the shower. Use caution when showering as it is easy to have lots of water leak during shower though the door. The skirting at the door appeared to be moisture damaged.

• GWC2-6 Guest W.C.:

  The bathroom was in a fair condition with some wear and cosmetic damage that is commensurate with the age of the residence.

• GB5-2 Guest Bathroom:

  The basin should be sealed against the wall and counter top to prevent moisture intrusion into the wall, floor and counter.

• GB5-6 Guest Bathroom:

  The bathroom was in a good condition with some slight wear and cosmetic damage that is commensurate with the age of the residence. There was some plaster cracking above the toilet and basin.

• B3EB-2 Bedroom 3 En-suite Bathroom:

  The basin should be sealed against the counter top to prevent moisture intrusion into the counter top and cabinet.

• B3EB-5 Bedroom 3 En-suite Bathroom:

  The side panel of the shower door enclosure was loose and not operational. The doors and enclosure will need to be serviced or repaired.

• B3EB-6 Bedroom 3 En-suite Bathroom:

  The bath splashback was cracked away from the wall. The splashback will need to be repaired to prevent potential or further water intrusion into the wall and the area below the bath.

• B3EB-7 Bedroom 3 En-suite Bathroom:

  The bathroom was in a fair condition with some wear and cosmetic damage that is commensurate with the age of the residence.

• B4EB-2 Bedroom 4 En-suite Bathroom:

  The basin should be sealed against the wall and counter top to prevent moisture intrusion into the wall, counter top and cabinet.

• B4EB-7 Bedroom 4 En-suite Bathroom:

  The bathroom was in a fair condition with some wear and cosmetic damage that is commensurate with the age of the residence.

• MB1-3 Master Bathroom:

  A basin pop-up plug in the "hers" basin was missing a seal. The basin plug seal will have to be replaced or the plug replaced.

• MB1-4 Master Bathroom:

  The basins should be sealed against the counter top to prevent moisture intrusion into the counter top and cabinet.

• E-1 Electrical:

  Openings were noted in the dead front cover to the electric panel. This is unsafe as it does not adequately protect the energized area of the electric panel. Cover all open knock-outs with approved panel block out covers.

• E-2 Electrical:

  Inadequate labeling of the main electrical panel circuit breakers was noted during inspection. The labelling of lower section of the main panel was untidy and confusing All the labelling should be corrected for improved safety.

• E-4 Electrical:

  Openings were noted in the dead front cover to the electric panel in the domestic quarters. This is unsafe as it does not adequately protect the energized area of the electric panel. Cover all open knock-outs with approved panel block out covers.

• E-10 Electrical:

  The lead to a security component or light through the wall across the paving on the west side of the residence was an incorrect installation and should be corrected by a suitable qualified registered electrician.

• P-3 Plumbing:

  A drip pipe was not fitted to any of the pressure regulators. The drip pipe should discharge directly into a gulley or waste pipe as required. Water from the regulators were dripping close to the walls of the residence. If the regulator is working properly a certain amount of water is discharged from the drip of the pressure regulator during the course of normal operation. This discharge should be directed away from the foundation of the residence.

  • The drip on the pressure regulator on the east side of the residence was not directly over the drip cup and was spilling over into the wall structure. The wall was damp and there may be moisture intrusion into the garage. The regulator should be re-positioned and the door to the regulator box repaired or replaced.
  • Drip pipe spilling water onto the paving. Note the damp wall!
  • A drip pipe on the west side near to the swimming pump enclosure.
  • A pressure control valve near the kitchen gulley. The drip pipe can be extended to discharge in the gulley.
• P-5 Plumbing:

  There was one uncovered inspection eye/rodding eye in the driveway at the south side of the residence that will need to be fitted with a cover to prevent leaves, debris and stormwater entering the sewer system.

• P-6 Plumbing:

  A waste pipe on the west side of the residence was disconnected at the elbow and will need to be repaired. The pipe should be secured to the wall with brackets at 1.8 m centres.

• P-7 Plumbing:

  It appeared that a pipe was placed through the exterior wall and abandoned (?). The pipe should be blocked up to prevent the possibility of moisture intrusion.

• P-13 Plumbing:

  The geyser above the ceiling of the main bathroom en-suite was equipped with a geyser tray that includes a PVC overflow line, but I could not ascertain whether it was discharging to the outside of the building or not. The overflow line should be routed to an approved discharge location outside the building.

• P-17 Plumbing:

  The steel sink in the covered patio was corroded and may soon require replacement. It was not leaking at the time of inspection, but the sink is unreliable and could fail at any time.

• P-18 Plumbing:

  The hinges on the sink cabinet and the storage under the gas braai were corroded and will require replacement. One hinge on the sink cabinet was broken.

• PS-3 Pools and Spas:

  Inadequate labeling of the sub electrical panel circuit breakers was noted during inspection. This should be corrected for improved safety.

• PS-4 Pools and Spas:

  The pool surround was manufactured concrete surround. The surround appeared to be in a reasonable condition.