The approximate square footage listed here is listed as a courtesy and is based off of public records and disclosure. An evaluation of square footage of the buildings and property lines is beyond the scope of this inspection.

Solid conductor aluminum wiring was used in residential construction for 15 and 20-amp circuits in the 1960's through the 1970's. This wiring has proven to be problematic and a fire hazard, primarily due to problems with loose connections and metal fatigue. I looked hard to find any signs of solid conductor aluminum here. No signs were found. There is always a chance that solid conductor aluminum wiring exists and is concealed from view. If this wiring is ever uncovered during subsequent renovation work, I recommend removal and replacement.

This section is about the lot surrounding the property. It describes adjacent entryway walkways, patios, driveways, vegetation, grading, surface drainage, and retaining walls that are likely to adversely affect the building.   

Detached outbuildings are not included in the scope of a standard home inspection; this inspection is limited to the house only. However, a cursory check of any installed and visible plumbing and electrical systems is performed. Any defects with these systems can be found in the Electrical and Plumbing sections of this report.

This section describes the exterior of the structure. It includes the exterior wall coverings, flashing, trim, exterior doors, steps, porches and their associated railings, attached decks, balconies, eaves, soffits, and fascias. The exterior envelope of a house is one of the most important and complicate systems in the structure. Its primary function is to prevent water from entering the house.

To see a prescriptive guide for residential wood deck construction click this link:

The roof is one of the major systems in a house as it is one of the primary ways that water is kept away from the structure. Especially in a climate like the Pacific Northwest, the roof condition of any structure is critical. The roofing material, flashing, and any penetrations will be inspected and any deficiencies will be documented here.

Note: Some roofs are not safe to walk on due to slope, access, materials, or weather conditions. In those cases, Washington State's standards of practice require inspectors to observe the roof as best they can from vantage points on the ground.

These are photos of the roof taken to add context.

Roof flashings are used to keep a roofing system water proof where the roofing material starts, stops, changes direction or is penetrated. During inspection, we look for standard flashing techniques that could be considered normal or standard in our region. Damaged, incomplete or non-standard flashings can be a sign of an older or less reliable roofing system and may require repair. Any non-standard flashings noted during inspection will be reported on below if found.

These are photos of the chimney and any accessible flues.

The Interior Areas section covers areas of the house that are not considered bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, garages, or areas covered elsewhere in the report. Interior areas usually consist of bedrooms, hallways, foyers, living rooms, dining rooms, and other open areas. Within these areas a visual inspection is conducted for visible damage and safety improvements.

These are photos of the interior at the time of the inspection.

During inspection today I operated all plumbing fixtures in bathrooms. I ran a moisture meter around toilets and tile shower enclosures to check for concealed leaks and sounded for loose tile and finishes in shower and tub enclosures. I do not test bathtub overflow drains as this risks damaging finishes around the tub. Monitor tubs while filling and avoid pushing water into the overflow. Even well-installed overflow drains can leak as the gaskets that seal the overflow will dry out over time and may no longer provide a watertight seal. Monitor plumbing after moving into a new home as testing during inspection presents less stress on plumbing than daily use. Please note that vacant homes present additional risk as it can be difficult to distinguish how the plumbing system will respond to daily use. Any defects uncovered during inspection are listed in this report.

These are photos of the bathroom(s) at the time of the inspection.

The kitchen is used for food preparation and often for entertainment. Kitchens typically include a stove, dishwasher, sink and other appliances. Any safety concerns, water leaks, or inoperable appliances will be reported. Testing the effectiveness of appliances is not part of this inspection.   

These are photos of the kitchen at the time of the inspection.

All the installed kitchen appliances were tested during inspection today (any exceptions will be noted below.) The typical design life of appliances can range from 4-20 years. Some appliances such as an older electric range are simple and tend to last longer than more complex appliances such as dishwashers and refrigerators or modern appliances with circuit boards. Also, usage of appliances varies widely from house to house depending on the occupant's habits. Because of all these factors, it is impossible to predict the useful remaining life of an appliance. Any operational defects noted will be listed in this report; however, just because an appliance turns on and runs, it does not necessarily mean is it working effectively. I was inspecting for operation of the appliances, not their effectiveness.

There are companies that offer warranties for appliances such as American Home Shield. While I do not endorse or recommend any specific warranty. I know that some home owners have been very happy with this insurance.

This section is about the lot surrounding the property. It describes adjacent entryway walkways, patios, driveways, vegetation, grading, surface drainage, and retaining walls that are likely to adversely affect the building.   

These are photos of the Laundry / Utility Room at the time of the inspection.

This section describes any accessible attic(s.) It describes the levels insulation and ventilation. This is also an area where the structure and electrical wires are often more exposed than in the living space of the house. Any damage, such as organic growth or rodent activity, will be documented below.

This photo shows the location of the attic access hatches. Both hatches accessed the same attic space, just from opposite ends of the house.

In our climate, modern building standards recommend an R-value of between 38 and 60. Different materials have different levels of R-values, but in general, around 10 - 14 inches of insulation is recommended.

Attic and roof cavity ventilation is a frequently-misunderstood element of residential construction. All roof cavities are required to have ventilation. This is primarily to reduce moisture levels in the attic, which helps prevent organic growth issues, and keeps the roofing material cooler, which extends its lifespan. The general default standard is 1 to 150 of the attic area and ideally, this comes from at least 60% lower roof cavity ventilation and 40% upper, but this is a wild over-simplifications of the subject. As a good guiding principle the most important elements for healthy attic spaces, which are traditionally insulated and ventilated are:

1. Make sure the ceiling between the living space and the attic is airtight
2. Ventilate consistently across the whole lower part of the roof cavity with low, intake soffit venting
3. Upper roof cavity venting is less important and if over-installed can exacerbate air migration into the attic from the living space.
4. Avoid power ventilators which can depressurize the attic and exacerbate air migration from the house into the attic.

For more information, please see: Link

This section is about the structure and crawl space (if applicable.) It describes the foundation, floor, wall, ceiling and roof structures and the method used to inspect any accessible under floor crawl space areas. I inspect and probe the structural components of the home, including the foundation and framing, where deterioration is suspected or where clear indications of possible deterioration exist. Probing is not done when doing so will damage finished surfaces or when no deterioration is visible or presumed to exist. Inspectors are not required to offer an opinion as to the structural adequacy of any structural systems or components or provide architectural services or an engineering or structural analysis of any kind. Despite all efforts, it is impossible for a home inspection to provide any guaranty that the foundation, and the overall structure and structural elements of the building is sound.   

This is a photo of the crawl space access point.

During inspection of the crawl space, every effort is made to inspect the entire space. Visual inspection of crawl spaces is difficult and limited as access is often restricted by pipes, ducts and sub-floor insulation as well as limited clearances.

Seattle is in a seismic zone and earthquake resistance is an important consideration in any house. The basic idea behind earthquake retrofitting is to tie all the structural elements of the house together--especially bolting the house to the foundation--which makes each individual component stronger. Many older homes built prior to the mid 1970s were built without being bolted to their foundations. Without this anchorage, an earthquake can move the ground and the foundation right out from under the house. Earthquake resistance techniques continue to improve every year, but most houses from the mid 1970s and later have been constructed with mostly modern techniques.

Crawl spaces ventilation is designed to keep humidity levels as low as possible. Crawl spaces are a common location for rot and mold issues, and having airflow through the space helps keep moisture levels low.

This area of the report describes the exposed water plumbing materials, main water shutoff location, water pressure, the water heater, and plumbing fixtures in living spaces.

This image shows a pressure gauge on an exterior hose spigot.

This house has a pressure reducing valve to control high water pressure in the street.

Angle stops are the shut offs located below plumbing fixtures such as sinks and toilets. These are designed so that water can be shut off locally to a fixture without shutting off the water to the entire house so that localized fixtures can be serviced and repaired or replaced. Home inspectors do NOT test angle stops during inspection as there is a risk of leakage which could cause damage to the home.

Please note that when the sewage discharge type is listed here, it is listed based on public records and disclosure. It is always possible that the system is not as it is listed; for example, a property could be listed as a public sewer system when in fact it is on a private septic system. This is unlikely, but is another reason why we recommend further evaluation of all sewage discharge systems.

This shows the data plate on the water heater.

The temperature and pressure relief valve is arguably one of the most important safety devices in your house. Should the thermostats fail inside your water heater, the TPRV allows excess pressure to "blow off," which will prevent catastrophic build up of temperature and pressure which can make water heaters explosive. I do not test the "blow off valve" during inspection as there is a risk it could stick open and testing could cause the need for a repair. Manufacturers of these relief valves recommend that these be tested annually. You need to decide for yourself if this is the type of annual testing you wish to perform.

This water heater appears to be using F.V.I.R technology. Prior to 2003 most gas water heaters had an open combustion system which made them a potential ignition source in places like garages where gasoline vapors could ignite. Starting in 2003, residential water heaters began using “F.V.I.R.” (Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant) technology. This means that the combustion chamber is now sealed. In order to light the water heater, you must use the pilot mechanism and you can no longer use a match, like the old pilot lights. Effective July 1, 2003, all water heater manufacturers are required to build their 30,40 & 50 gallon atmospheric vent water heaters to new government standards. The American National Standards Institution (ANSI) have established these new standards to prevent accidental or unintended ignition of flammable vapors, such as those emitted by gasoline. By July 1, 2005, the ANSI Z21.10.1a-2002 standard will apply to virtually all gas fired residential water heaters with BTU ratings of 75,000 and below.

This section is about the electric system in the house. It includes the amperage rating of the service, the location of the main disconnect, the location of any sub panel(s), the presence of solid conductor aluminum branch circuit wiring, and wiring methods. Inspectors are required to inspect the visible portions of the service drop from the utility to the house, the service entrance conductors, cables and raceways, the service equipment and main disconnects, the service grounding, the interior components of the service panels and sub panels, the conductors, the over-current protection devices (fuses or breakers), ground fault circuit interrupters, and a representative number of installed lighting fixtures, switches, and receptacles.   

This is a photo of the electrical service entrance, meter, and any visible service wires.

Ground rod connections were noted at the exterior. The ground rods looked to be fully driven and connections looked standard,

During the inspection, I attempt to visually document electrical system bonding. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of system bonding. All metallic systems in the building are required to be "bonded" (connected) to the the building's electrical grounding system. Bonding creates a pathway to shunt static charges (that would otherwise build up on the system) to earth, and to provide a pathway to trip a breaker in the event that these bonded metallic components became energized. There are many things that can lead me to recommend further evaluation of this system by a licensed electrical contractor and they will be documented as repair items in the observations below if discovered.

Photos of the electrical panel are provided for context. The main electrical shut-off breaker is highlighted (if the panel is equipped with one.)

Testing of smoke or carbon monoxide detectors is not included in this inspection. Pushing the "Test" button only verifies that there is power at the detector--both for battery and hard wired versions--and does not actually test the operational workings of the detector. To test functionality of a detector, either smoke or carbon monoxide must be presented to the unit, and is outside the scope of this inspection. Because of this, I do not push the test button on smoke detectors or carbon monoxide detectors as it can provide a false sense of security.

Smoke detectors are a major safety component of a house. According to current building standards, every floor of a house should have at least one smoke detector in a common area outside of sleeping rooms, and all bedrooms should have a smoke detector inside the room.   

The installation of carbon monoxide alarms is recommended for all homes that have fuel burning appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens and cook-tops, gas fireplaces and wood stoves. In addition, Washington State law (WAC 51-51-0315) now requires UL 2034 approved carbon monoxide alarms in ALL homes and condominiums being sold in Washington State. The location should be: at least one alarm outside of all sleeping areas and one on each floor of the house. Best practices are to have these alarms hardwired with a battery back-up - though requirements are for the installation to meet manufacturer's specifications. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can cause sickness, nausea and even death. Alarms have a useful service life of roughly 6 years, so changing them more frequently than smoke alarms is recommended.

These photos show emergency electrical shut-offs for equipment with local shut-offs installed.

This section outlines the gas and/or oil source, and supply lines for appliances.   

The heating, ventilation, and air conditioning and cooling system (often referred to as HVAC) is the climate control system for the structure. The goal of these systems is to keep the occupants at a comfortable level while maintaining indoor air quality and ventilation. The HVAC system is usually powered by electricity and natural gas, but can also be powered by other sources such as butane, oil, propane, solar panels, or wood.

Washington State's standards of practice require testing the HVAC equipment using standard equipment (the thermostat) if it's safe to do so. For a more thorough investigation of the system please contact a licensed HVAC service person.

Photos of the furnace were provided for context.

This house had a gas forced air furnace. A critical component to all combustion equipment like this is the heat exchanger. This is the welded clam-shell piece of metal inside the furnace that contains the products of combustion so that moisture, carbon monoxide and other products of combustion do not mix with interior air and get safely vented to the exterior. Heat exchangers on modern furnaces have an average life expectancy of 15-20 years. Unfortunately, heat exchangers are buried inside of heating equipment; they are not visible and specifically excluded from a home inspection.

This shows the data plate on the furnace.

Your heating system has disposable air filters installed. These should be changed quarterly or more to ensure proper air flow at the furnace. Be sure to install the filters with the arrows pointing in the same direction as the air flow in the furnace.

This photo shows the location of the furnace filter.

This is a photo of the air conditioner.

This shows the data plate from the exterior compressor.