The Scope and Purpose of a Home Inspection
Purchasing property involves risk
The purpose of a home inspection is to help reduce the risk associated with the purchase of a structure by providing a professional opinion about the overall condition of the structure. A home inspection is a limited visual inspection and it cannot eliminate this risk. Some homes present more risks than others. We cannot control this, but we try to help educate you about what we don’t know during the inspection process. This is more difficult to convey in a report and one of many reasons why we recommend that you attend the inspection.
Occasional typographical errors and other minor errors and omissions will occur in the report. I apologize in advance for these. If any of these typos make the report unclear, confusing or incomplete, please contact me immediately for clarification/correction.
A home inspection is not an insurance policy
This report does not substitute for or serve as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Home warranties can be purchased separately from insuring firms that provide this service.
A home inspection is visual and not destructive
The descriptions and observations in this report are based on a visual inspection of the structure. We inspect the aspects of the structure that can be viewed without dismantling, damaging or disfiguring the structure and without moving furniture and interior furnishings. Areas that are concealed, hidden or inaccessible to view are not covered by this inspection. Some systems cannot be tested during this inspection as testing risks damaging the building. For example, overflow drains on bathtubs are generally not tested because if they were found to be leaking, they could damage the finishes below. Our procedures involve non-invasive investigation and non-destructive testing which will limit the scope of the inspection.
This is not an inspection for code compliance
This inspection and report are not intended for city / local code compliance. During the construction process structures are inspected for code compliance by municipal inspectors. Framing is open at this time and conditions can be fully viewed. Framing is not open during inspections of finished homes, and this limits the inspection. All houses fall out of code compliance shortly after they are built, as the codes continually change. National codes are augmented at least every three years for all of the varying disciplines. Municipalities can choose to adopt and phase in sections of the codes on their own timetables. There are generally no requirements to bring older homes into compliance unless substantial renovation is being done.
Environmental/Mold Exclusions
The reported or actual health effects of many potentially harmful, toxic or environmentally hazardous elements that may be found in building materials or in the air, soil, water in and/or around any house are varied, and, in some cases controversial. A home inspection does not include the detection, identification or analysis of any such elements or related concerns such as, but not limited to, mold, allergens, legal/illegal drugs and other biological contaminants, radon, , bed bugs, cockroaches, fleas, lice, formaldehyde, asbestos, lead, electromagnetic fields, carbon monoxide, insecticides, Chinese drywall, refrigerants and fuel oils. Furthermore, no evaluations are performed to determine the effectiveness or appropriateness of any method or system (e.g., water filter, radon mitigation, etc.), designed to prevent or remove any hazardous or unwanted materials or elements. An environmental health specialist should be contacted for evaluation of any potential health or environmental concerns. The noting of the presence of materials commonly considered to contain asbestos, formaldehyde, lead, mold etc in the inspection report, should not be construed to mean the inspector is inspecting for these things but instead should be seen as a "heads-up" regarding these materials and further evaluation by qualified professional may be warranted.
This is just our opinion and just for you
The contents of this report are for the sole use of the client named above and no other person or party may rely on this report for any reason or purpose whatsoever without the prior written consent of the inspector who authored the report. Any person or party who chooses to rely on this report for any reason or purpose whatsoever without the express written consent of the inspector does so at their own risk and by doing so without the prior written consent of the inspector waives any claim of error or deficiency in this report.
Construction techniques and standards vary. There is no one way to build a house or install a system in a house. The observations in this report are the opinions of the home inspector. Other inspectors and contractors are likely to have some differing opinions. You are welcome to seek opinions from other professionals.
The scope of this inspection
The inspection and report are intended to provide the client with information regarding the condition of the systems and components of the property as observed at the time of the inspection. The inspector examines the readily accessible systems and components using normal operating controls. The inspection is not technically exhaustive and will not identify concealed conditions or latent defects. Any comments offered by the INSPECTOR that could be construed as over or beyond the standards of practice or the language of this contract, are offered as a professional courtesy. Refer to the Washington State, Standards of Practice and/or Pre-Inspection Agreement for additional information regarding the scope and limitations of the inspection. The Standards of Practice are linked below and describe the "minimum" standards a Licensed Washington State Home Inspector must adhere to:
http://www.buellinspections.com/wa-state-standards-of-practice/
All homes are likely to have some faults which may range from cosmetic defects to major safety hazards. Not all defects will be found. While some minor deficiencies may be mentioned, the emphasis of this report is to inform the buyer of the property condition by detecting deficiencies or circumstances that may affect the structural integrity of the building and its components and its safe use as a residence.
You are encouraged to obtain competitive estimates for major repair needs. Safety and health issues should be addressed promptly. It is recommended that all corrective work, other than routine maintenance activities, be performed by qualified licensed contractors.
It is beyond the scope of the Standard Home Inspection to identify components within the home that may have been part of a "manufacturer's recall". Mention of specific recalls within this report must not be construed to mean that all such items have been identified, or that such identification is part of a Standard Home Inspection. When possible, appliance Model Numbers and Serial Numbers are included in the report and can be used to check for recall related issues. If you have any question about specific appliances, information can be found at the CPSC (Consumer Products Safety Commission) website: http://www.cpsc.gov, or http://search.cpsc.gov/query.html or contact the manufacturer directly.
It is recommended that you obtain as much history as is available concerning this property. This historical information may include copies of any seller's disclosures, previous inspection or engineering reports, reports performed for or by relocation companies, municipal inspection departments, lenders, insurers and appraisers. You should attempt to determine whether repairs, renovation, remodeling, additions or other such activities have taken place at this property, and this report will attempt to identify such items when possible.
Ranges, Dish Washers, and Refrigerators (and the like) are typically tested for basic function (Do they turn on). No assertions are made as to how well they function. Microwave ovens, clothes washers/dryers are not operated.
Throughout this report, comments will be made as to the presence or absence of components or parts of components. This must not be construed to mean that these components or parts of components exist (or don't exist) in concealed areas or behind finished surfaces. For example: if foundation bolting was seen in one area, it does not mean that the bolting exists (or doesn't exist) in areas that are concealed. Also if an item was noted as "not being visible," that should not be construed to mean that none of whatever was "not visible" does not exist on the premises---it just means none was noted at the time of inspection and should be seen as a "heads-up" that the concern or condition might be present but hidden, or that the conditions that would allow its presence to be known was not replicated at the time of inspection.
Many of the non-narrative observations/documentation detailed in the report that are related to more "cosmetic" issues should not be construed as "all inclusive" but should instead be seen in as "suggestive" or a "guideline" of conditions that may exist elsewhere in the home. It is not the focus of the report to comment extensively on cosmetic issues, but I do make note of them at times to help complete the "snap-shot" of the home at the time of inspection. For example, "nail-pops" seen in one room are likely to be seen (and should be anticipated) in other rooms even though I may not have noted them in the report.
Throughout the report I may make recommendations as to possible repairs. These recommendations are not intended to be substitutes or construed to be more appropriate than the recommendations of the professionals making the repairs. Conflicts in recommendations should be resolved prior to repairs being made.
Who should make repairs and what should their qualifications be?
Workman qualifications: In the text of the report, in some instances, I recommend that work be done by a "qualified" person or "qualified" parties. I consider qualified parties, in licensed trades, to be those individuals who hold the necessary licenses to legally work in their profession -- licensed electricians, licensed pest control applicators, licensed plumbers, licensed HVAC professionals, licensed engineers, licensed general contractors, etc. In instances where a task may not, typically, need to be done by a person with a license, my recommendation is to hire an individual to do the work who is, based on past training, experience or expertise, qualified to further evaluate the condition or problem listed in the report and to then make appropriate repairs.
For additional fees, this inspector can perform invasive inspection of concealed areas if desired. Please contact the inspector for more information regarding this service.
Photography/Infrared and Moisture meters used
Digital photographs, thermographs and illustrations may be included in this report. If included, their purpose is to better illustrate an observation or recommendation. No degree of importance should be inferred by the presence or absence of photos and illustrations. Some pictures will undergo lightening, darkening, cropping and have callouts and other "overlays" present, but the image itself will not be altered unless specifically noted on the picture. The use of infrared thermography (IR) must not be construed to mean that a full thermal survey of the structure was done. The use of IR is primarily for recording thermal differences to show the function or lack of function of heating and cooling of HVAC equipment; and, anomalies associated with temperature differences sometimes produced by water leaks, air infiltration etc. IR during a home inspection is mainly a qualitative evaluation and, in most cases, "thermal tuning" will not have been performed and therefor temperatures present on any thermal images in the report should not be seen as an absolute temperature but only "relative temperature."
Throughout the report, reference may be made to moisture conditions and percentages of moisture content. These moisture readings are obtained by the use of a Protimeter, Surveymaster Moisture Meter or the Extech MO55 or the Tramex MEP.
Your participation is requested
Your presence is requested during this inspection. A written report will not substitute for all the possible information that can be conveyed verbally by a shared visual observation of the conditions of the property. If you were not present during the inspection, you are urged to contact the inspector for a verbal consultation. If you choose not to consult with the inspector, the inspection company cannot be responsible for misinterpretation of the report.
How to Read This Report
Getting the Information to You
This report is designed to deliver important and technical information in a way that is easy for anyone to access and understand. If you are in a hurry, you can take a quick look at our "Summary Page” and quickly get critical information for important decision making. However, we strongly recommend that you take the time to read the full Report, which includes digital photographs, captions, diagrams, descriptions, videos and hot links to additional information.
The best way to get the layers of information that are presented in this report is to read your report online, which will allow you to expand your learning about your house. You will notice some words or series of words highlighted in blue and underlined – clicking on these will provide you with a link to additional information.
This report can also be printed on paper or to a PDF document.
Chapters and Sections
This report is divided into chapters that parcel the home into logical inspection components. Each chapter is broken into sections that relate to a specific system or component of the home. You can navigate between chapters with the click of a button on the left side margin.
Most sections will contain some descriptive information done in black font. Observation narrative, done in colored boxes, will be included if a system or component is found to be significantly deficient in some way or if we wish to provide helpful additional information about the system or the scope of our inspection. If a system or component of the home was deemed to be in satisfactory or serviceable condition, there may be no narrative observation comments in that section and it may simply say “tested,” or “inspected.”
Observation Labels
All narrative observations are colored, numbered and labeled to help you find, refer to, and understand the severity of the observation. Observation colors and labels used in this report are:
- Major Concern:Repair items that may cost significant money to correct now or in the near future, or items that require immediate attention to prevent additional damage or eliminate safety hazards.
- Repair:Repair and maintenance items noted during inspection. Please note that some repair items can be expensive to correct such as re-finishing hardwood floors, but are considered simply repair items due to their cosmetic nature.
- Recommended Maintenance:These are repair items that should be considered "routine home ownership items," such as servicing the furnace, cleaning the gutters or changing the air filters in the furnace.
- Improve:Observations that are not necessarily defects, but which could be improved for safety, efficiency, or reliability reasons.
- Monitor:Items that should be watched to see if correction may be needed in the future.
- Due Diligence:Observation such as a buried oil tank that may require further investigation to determine the severity and / or urgency of repair.
- Future Project:A repair that may be deferred for some time but should be on the radar for repair or replacement in the near future.
- Efficiency:Denotes observations that are needed to make the home more energy efficient as well as to bring the home up to modern insulation standards. This category typically includes windows and insulation. Other items, such as lighting and appliances, are not inspected for their energy status.
- Completed:Items that were initially an issue but have since been completed.
- Note:Refers to aside information and /or any comments elaborating on descriptions of systems in the home or limitations to the home inspection.
- Description:Detailed description of various aspects of the property noted during the inspection.
Pest Inspection
All items with the bug logo () are part of a structural pest inspection. If your inspector included a structural pest inspection as a part of the scope of your home inspection, you can distinguish pest inspection items by this logo. You can also go to the pest inspection summary page to see a summary of the items that are part of a pest inspection.
Summary Page
Potentially significant findings are summarized below. A "Significant Finding" is defined as a substantial safety hazard; or, a deficiency requiring a major short-term expense to correct or possible significant expense in the future if not addressed. This summary is not a complete listing of the findings in the report and reflects the opinion of the inspector. It should be considered highly likely there will be other issues you would like in the summary, and you should add these as desired. Please review all of the report pages. All repairs must be done by the applicable qualified, licensed & bonded trade or profession. I recommend obtaining receipts and warranties for the work done (including copies of any necessary permits).
Many of these Narrative comments in the Summary have pictures and web links that better clarify the issues. Please refer to their place in the report body for additional clarification/information. Lack of information under any given component only means that, in my opinion, there was nothing in the body of the report that warranted posting it to the Summary. There will certainly be valuable information under each applicable component in the body of the report.
Summary
Repairs
- GROUNDS-13 GROUNDS:
There were numerous conditions with the sidewalk that should be evaluated and repaired by a qualified party. Some areas merely need monitoring and maintenance. There was cracking evident, surface Settlement Evident, mechanical damage. Much of the damage appears to be on the neighbor's portion of the sidewalk. Sometimes jurisdictions have approved contractor lists for these kinds of repairs/replacement.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- GROUNDS-16 GROUNDS:
All retaining walls require maintenance and monitoring. The retaining wall at the sides of the driveway has conditions that should be addressed by a qualified party that utilizes the services of a licensed structural engineer when necessary. The wall has the following conditions:
- cracking typical of age and type of construction,
- vertical cracks,
- vertical shear,
- settlement cracks,
- leaning, etc.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- BUILDINGEXTERIOR-6 🏡BUILDING EXTERIOR:
Some areas of the soffits has weathering/deterioration consistent with the age of the home and generally considered cosmetic. At the window trim around the kitchen window there is wood decay/rot in the window sill that should be replaced and other similar locations should be anticipated. I recommend evaluation of all of these trim components by a qualified party and that repairs be made as deemed necessary.
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- BUILDINGEXTERIOR-7 🏡BUILDING EXTERIOR:
At the west side of the chimney there is foam being used to fill a gap between the siding and the chimney. I recommend proper covering of this gap to protect the foam with wood trim or other suitable material by a qualified party.
🔧 Maintenance 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
- WES-3 West Entryway Stoop:
The entire entryway structure has numerous issues and no attempt to document all these issues will be made in this report. The following pictures with descriptions are meant to convey the necessity for a full evaluation/repair or possibly even replacement of the structure by a qualified deck installation/repair contractor as deemed necessary. There are issues with access underneath, decay/rot in risers and other trim details on the stairs, baluster spacings, handrails, and guards on the stairs. These pictures should not be construed to be a complete accounting of the issues. No access was possible to the space under the front entryway stoop. While some structures were visible through the vent opening on the north side, a full evaluation of this space was not possible. I recommend a proper access (would be required by current standards) be made by a qualified party and that the space be fully evaluated at that time.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- SD-2 South Deck:
The entire deck structure has numerous issues and no attempt to document all these issues will be made in this report. The following pictures with descriptions are meant to convey the necessity for a full evaluation/repair or possibly even replacement of the structure by a qualified deck installation/repair contractor as deemed necessary. There are issues with
- Ledger not bolted or not adequately bolted
- Structure not made of pressure treated wood. In geographical areas where experience has demonstrated a specific need, approved naturally durable or pressure-preservative treated wood shall be used for those portions of wood members that form the structural supports of buildings, balconies, porches or similar permanent building appurtenances when those members are exposed to the weather without adequate protection from a roof, eave, overhang or other covering that would prevent moisture or water accumulation on the surface or at joints between members.
- Guard not adequate
- Guard spacings inadequate
- Stair structures not adequate
- Stair guard not adequate
- Joists undersized
- Missing solid blocking above beams
- Improper fasteners
- Missing inappropriate diagonal bracing
- No lateral bracing anchors. These are brackets with threaded metal rods that connect the joists of the deck to the joists of the house. General standards for modern deck construction are to have not less than two lateral load anchors.
- No clearance between siding and deck surface
- Missing handrails
These pictures should not be construed to be a complete accounting of the issues. Deck structure replacements typically require permits and sometimes engineering. Discuss with the deck contractor cost related to these repairs/replacement to your satisfaction and care should be exercised using the deck until proper repairs/replacement is completed as the guard along the south side is not safe.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- GARAGE-2 🚙GARAGE:
There are some breaches of the fire-resistant surfaces between the house and the garage that should be properly patched. Consult with a qualified drywall installation company regarding installation.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- GARAGE-3 🚙GARAGE:
The garage overhead door is in poor condition with the following concerns:
- Wear & Tear consistent with age of door,
- Mechanical damage to door/panels noted,
- No automatic opener
- Side springs
This list should not be considered a complete list of issues but instead more representative of concerns that is designed to promote full evaluation by qualified parties. I recommend replacement by a qualified overhead door installation/repair contractor.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- GARAGE-4 🚙GARAGE:
While operational these older style hinged door opener mechanism are typically at the end of their expected life and upgrading the door to newer style roll-up type doors is recommended for improved safety. Consult with a qualified garage door installation company as to options.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- BASEMENTF-10 BASEMENT Foundation:
It is common to have missing fire-blocking around water heater vents. This should have proper metal fire-blocking installed to prevent the entry of fire into the chase which could then find its way into the attic where the pipe is likewise not sealed. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed HVAC contractor.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- BASEMENTF-13 BASEMENT Foundation:
There is evidence of past water intrusion of the basement at the SW window as indicated by staining and mold or what looks like mold. This may be from past or ongoing intrusion conditions that have since been remedied or from ongoing conditions that are seasonal or related to other causes. I recommend proper repairs by a qualified party. No elevated moisture readings were detected by moisture meter at the time of inspection. There has also been water intrusion at the basement entryway door as indicated by staining and swelling of the trim. While cosmetic, it is a concern as it is likely to get worse unless protection of the door at the exterior is provided. Perhaps a roof overhang etc.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- BASEMENTF-14 BASEMENT Foundation:
There is considerable cracking and settlement of the basement floor likely related to settlement of the foundation and poor original installation. Repairs to all this damage would not likely be practical and would likely require replacement in whole or part. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a qualified party perhaps in conjunction with any repairs to correct the settlement along the west side previously discussed. Some of the cracks are pictured below and others are likely under stored items.
- ➕ Upgrade
- ROOFA-9 ROOF/Attic:
The vent cap for the kitchen exhaust fan is not properly flashed with shingles. In the manner installed, wind driven rain can get under the top shingle and then flow under the shingles below instead of on top of them like it would for the flashing of the b-vent. Sometimes sealants are used successfully to seal this vulnerable area but that could not be determined visually. Also the b-vent storm collar is not in the proper position and should be lowered and properly sealed. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a qualified roofing contractor or other qualified party.
- 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
- ROOFA-20 ROOF/Attic:
Downspouts that terminate at the ground next to the foundation are especially troublesome because water can immediately negatively impact the foundation system. I recommend that either extensions be added to the downspouts to carry the water at least 5 feet away from the home, that tight-line drains be installed to collect all of the downspout water and carry it away from the home, or that it be verified that current underground pipes are fully functional.
The current downspout location can contribute directly to excessive moisture in the basement.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-3 💡ELECTRICAL:
There may be missing mast restraints, etc. In the context of other electrical work done at the home I recommend the electrician determine if the mast is adequately secured and if not that additional brackets be added. I recommend evaluation/repairs as deemed necessary by a licensed electrical contractor.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-8 💡ELECTRICAL:
There is much rusting of the panel, etc. There is a loose connection of the neutral/ground wire to the neutral/ground bar as indicated by considerable efflorescence on the lug. There are double lugging of wires on breakers (even though this is a type that allows double lugging), and tandem breakers which the panel is not rated for. There are multiple lugged neutrals on the neutral/ground bar. All of these issues are indications that the panel no longer meets the needs of the home and I recommend upgrading the electrical panel by a licensed electrical contractor. If the panel is not to be replaced right away, I recommend correction of the loose neutral wire as soon as practical.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-9 💡ELECTRICAL:
The panel cover is secured with "pointed" screws. These screws can damage wires in the enclosure. I recommend replacement of these screws with proper panel cover screws by licensed electrical contractor when they are at the premises for other reasons.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-13 💡ELECTRICAL:
The ground rods are not driven deep enough, as they should be driven below grade. I recommend evaluation/repairs by the licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs at the home.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-26 💡ELECTRICAL:
Houses that have ungrounded wiring systems should not use metal cover plates as there is more risk of the plates becoming energized and creating a shock hazard. Replacement of any metal covers with plastic covers at indoor light switches is advised for safety. I only noted one cover at the interior that might apply, in the second floor SE Bedroom. This switch is also upside down.. There are likely others around the home however.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-27 💡ELECTRICAL:
There are several junction boxes throughout the basement that are missing cover plates. Cover plates should be installed by the electrician in the context of other electrical repairs at the home. Some of the noted locations are pictured below, others should be anticipated.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-36 💡ELECTRICAL:
Receptacles that have sustained mechanical damage should be replaced. Mechanical damage can result in exposing energized components and become a shock hazard. I recommend evaluation/repairs by the licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs at the home. The receptacle next to the opening into the downstairs hallway from the living room has a cover that should be replaced.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-40 💡ELECTRICAL:
The light fixture at the front entryway is missing its bottom piece of glass. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs done at the home.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-41 💡ELECTRICAL:
The light fixture at the NE Bedroom has missing a missing globes/covers with exposed wiring. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs done at the home.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-44 💡ELECTRICAL:
The light fixtures under the kitchen cabinets have wiring connectors that stick down and could injure persons cleaning in the area. They could possibly be turned around like some are. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical work, as deemed necessary.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-53 💡ELECTRICAL:
The dishwasher circuit is not GFCI protected as would likely have been required at the time of remodeling the kitchen. Depending on how the washer is wired, GFCI protection can either be provided at the unit itself or at the circuit breaker in the electrical panel. I recommend repairs (this would have been required when the kitchen was remodeled likely) by a licensed electrical contractor.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-57 💡ELECTRICAL:
GFCI protection was not verified at the receptacle over the toilet in the Main Bathroom in terms of whether it protects the exhaust fan in the tub/shower enclosure as would be required by the fan manufacturer. I recommend evaluation/verification and repairs if necessary by the licensed electrical contractor.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-58 💡ELECTRICAL:
Modern requirements for AFCI protection of lighting outlets in homes covers many locations. In this home none of the lighting outlets tested as AFCI protected in the kitchen as would have been expected when remodeled. I recommend having a licensed electrical contractor install AFCI protection where practical or in the context of remodeling or in conjunction of replacement of the electrical panel.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-59 💡ELECTRICAL:
Modern requirements for AFCI protection of receptacle and other outlets in homes covers many locations. In this home AFCI protection was missing for kitchen receptacles, for the dishwasher circuit, for the microwave circuit, for the refrigerator circuit, etc. As a fire-safety upgrade, I recommend having a licensed electrical contractor install AFCI protection where practical or in the context of remodeling where currently required or in the context of the panel replacement.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- PLUMBING-10 🚿PLUMBING:
The hose faucet at the NE corner and the SW corner of the home are not properly attached to the house (screws missing). I recommend proper attachment by qualified person to prevent damage to the valve/pipe connections.
- 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- PLUMBING-11 🚿PLUMBING:
It is common for hose faucets to leak around the valve stem resulting in the wasting of water. Usually this can be corrected by tightening the valve stem nut slightly. I recommend further evaluation/repairs by a licensed plumber. The valve stem at the NE outside faucet leaks under back pressure.
- 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- PLUMBING-12 🚿PLUMBING:
The hose faucet at the north corner of the home is not properly attached to the house (screws missing). I recommend proper attachment by qualified person to prevent damage to the valve/pipe connections.
- 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- PLUMBING-21 🚿PLUMBING:
The drain pipes at the main floor bathroom tub were noted as less than professional installation. This installation can have inadequate drainage leading to clogged pipes. I recommend evaluation/repairs as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- PLUMBING-23 🚿PLUMBING:
The drain for the dishwasher is improperly hard piped with no air gap or air break. Seattle allows the use of a high loop but a countertop air gap is still recommended. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed plumber.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- PLUMBING-24 🚿PLUMBING:
Houses that have plumbing drain components below the street man-hole cover are required by current standards to have back flow protection to prevent flooding of the home with sewage from the city sewer. I could not determine whether this house could benefit from one or not or whether one is present but hidden. I recommend evaluation/repairs and/or verification as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
- PLUMBING-34 🚿PLUMBING:
Shark bite type fittings effectively reduce the inside diameter of the TPRV drain pipe that is required to be full 3/4" pipe to the point of termination. Likely all that is necessary is to replace the push connector with a glue on fitting. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed plumber or other qualified party.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- PLUMBING-38 🚿PLUMBING:
At 125°±F degrees F, the water temperature is considered too high. I recommend lowering the water temperature to 120 degrees as required for safety. State of Washington Home Inspector Standards of Practice require me to note that the recommended safe water temperature is under 120 degrees F. Consideration should be given to having a tempering valve installed to allow for higher tank temperatures but to control the temperature to fixtures at safe levels.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- HEATINGCOOLING-5 🔥❄️HEATING /COOLING:
There was very poor access to the heating system. I recommend proper access be created and maintained.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
- HEATINGCOOLING-7 🔥❄️HEATING /COOLING:
The condensate trap has a crack. I could not determine if this affects function in any way but it should be evaluated and repaired/replaced by the licensed HVAC contractor as deemed necessary.
- 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
- HEATINGCOOLING-8 🔥❄️HEATING /COOLING:
Where the gas pipe enters the side of the furnace it is in contact with the metal side of the furnace. Contact between the two metals can result in galvanic corrosion and over time could result in failure of the gas pipe and leaking of gas. I recommend proper spacing between the two metals be accomplished by a licensed HVAC contractor in the context of servicing of the unit as previously discussed.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
- HEATINGCOOLING-17 🔥❄️HEATING /COOLING:
At the time the kitchen was remodeled (unless prior to 1991), some method of whole house ventilation would have been required. Lack of installation may be an oversight or be an indication of work being done without permits. I recommend further evaluation as desired. Sometimes these are incorporated on timers installed on bathroom or laundry room exhaust fans. It is possible I missed the timer location or it was hidden. I recommend asking seller if they are aware of any such installation.
- 🔧 Maintenance 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- EXTERIORDOORS-4 🚪EXTERIOR DOORS:
Water intrusion at both sides of the basement door is starting to cause decay in the wood core of the bottom of the door. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a qualified door installation contractor to determine how best to remedy this moisture intrusion and to make repairs as deemed necessary.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- EXTERIORDOORS-7 🚪EXTERIOR DOORS:
Most manufacturer's installation instructions recommend against installation of storm doors over their Steel or Plastic insulated doors. Heat that can build up between the doors can damage components of the door--especially those with plastic trim components and glass inserts. Sometimes reflective coatings can be added to the glass to protect the door. These are especially problematic on the south and west sides of the home.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
- IBG-1 Interior Barriers/Guards:
The barrier/guard does not have proper spacings less than 4 inches. Current requirements call for guard spaces to be less than 4 inches as this is less that what a child can fit his or her body through that could result in strangulation when their head does not fit. For improved safety, the spaces should be reduced to less than 4 inches. The railing is also poorly supported at the south end and might not support a fall against it. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a qualified railing installation contractor.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- S-3 Stairs:
Improving of the railings of the upper stairs by a qualified stair railing installation company, so that the ends return to the wall, is recommend for improved safe use of the stairs. Handrail ends should be either returned to the post, returned to the wall, or terminate at newel posts or safety terminals. Ends that are not properly terminated can snag belongings and lead to injuries of persons using the railings.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- MB-2 🛀Main Bathroom:
The pop-up stopper is missing in the Bathroom tub. I recommend repairs by qualified plumber or other qualified repair person. These pop-up stoppers are readily available at Lowes/Home Depot.
- 🔧 Maintenance 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- K-1 🍲Kitchen:
The transition strip from the dining room area into the kitchen is not attached. I recommend proper attachment by a qualified party.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
- L-4 🧺Laundry:
Foil flex type exhaust vents are a known fire hazard and should be replaced with smooth wall metal or flexible metal type pipe. I recommend proper repairs by qualified persons.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- L-6 🧺Laundry:
The louver type vent cap at the exterior are problematic in that the heat from the dryer tends to deform the louvers so that they don't open properly. Replacement of this type of cap with a type with a single flap is recommended. The current cap needs cleaning. There is a type of flat metal vent cap that performs much better than the plastic louver type caps.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Recommended Maintenance Items
- BUILDINGEXTERIOR-3 🏡BUILDING EXTERIOR:
The house siding is the older style cement siding that is assumed to contain asbestos. The EPA guidelines for this material call for leaving it in place and maintaining the material well painted and to avoid cutting or doing anything to the siding that would allow the fibers to become "friable". Repairs to the siding can be made with new cement siding that is made to look like this older material but does not contain Asbestos. GAF Replacement siding for damaged Asbestos Siding
For more information regarding asbestos in relation to this siding see: EPA Asbestos Information, http://www.epa.gov/asbestos. Some mechanical damage was noted, and repairs should be made by a qualified party.
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- BUILDINGEXTERIOR-4 🏡BUILDING EXTERIOR:
Much of the siding on the south side of the home has paint blisters that should be removed and repainted by a qualified painting contractor. This can have several causes but is most likely related to poor prep before painting or wrong types of paint. All siding components should be carefully evaluated as to the need for repairs and repaired as necessary by a qualified party. Proper caulking of siding and trim details should be fully evaluated and caulked/sealed/flashed as deemed necessary. I recommend professional evaluation/repairs of the home by a qualified painting contractor.
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- PLUMBING-3 🚿PLUMBING:
The water meter at the west of the property could not be inspected due to the compartment being filled with dirt. I recommend proper clearing away of the dirt by a qualified party. Any leaking that is discovered should be evaluated by a licensed plumber.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
- ID-4 Interior Doors:
Many of the interior door lock sets are not functional, locksets not functional (typical of age) repair/replace as desired, locksets less than fully functional (typical of age) repair/replace as desired, locksets less than fully functional--don't latch--repair/replace as desired,
locksets not properly attached--I recommend repairs by homeowner/handyperson, etc. Upgrade as desired. The door to the closet in teh NE Bedroom does not latch. I recommend repairs by a qualified party to allow for proper function.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- BT-1 🛀Basement Toilet:
The toilet tank water level in the basement toilet is too high could allow the water to run continuously. This can waste considerable water. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed plumber or other qualified party.
- 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
- BT-2 🛀Basement Toilet:
I recommend proper caulking of the bases of all of the toilets to the floor---where currently missing. Caulking the base of the toilet helps to stabilize the toilet as well as making cleaning around the toilet easier. Proper caps can be installed on the hold-down bolts as well.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Improves
- GROUNDS-5 GROUNDS:
Improving grading around the home to minimize the flow of surface water toward the foundation is recommended. This is primarily a concern at the north and east sides of the home where the ground is flat creating an opportunity for ponding water against the foundation. Some amount of seasonal ponding can be expected in this area depending on the ability of soils to provide adequate drainage. Repairs should be done by a licensed landscape contractor (it is more complicated that merely adding dirt to the area--a proper drainage plane must be re-created). Even flat areas can not affect the foundation so much as long as out of sight conditions underground are done properly.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence.
- BUILDINGEXTERIOR-8 🏡BUILDING EXTERIOR:
There are areas that are not properly counter-flashed. All materials, in order to properly shed water, are required to counter-flash materials below them. Missing flashings can lead to water penetration behind the siding and can lead to water penetration of the house sheathing at these locations. Repairs would likely prove difficult but repairs may become necessary in time--this is especially true in areas that are not well protected by overhangs on the south sides of the home. Hidden damage is common, with at least the trim boards. I recommend monitoring and repairs later when it becomes necessary or that proper flashings be installed now by a qualified siding contractor to avoid perhaps more costly repairs later. In the context of repainting the home you might want to consider having proper flashings installed. If flashings are not installed it will be necessary to be vigilant about keeping the connections well caulked and sealed to prevent water intrusion. The big drawback to caulking these connections as opposed to proper flashings is that water that finds its way behind the siding will not have a good pathway out from behind the siding and can cause hidden damage behind the siding. These flashings are obviously less critical in areas well protected by overhangs, but that does not eliminate the "requirement" for them by current building standards.
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- GARAGE-6 🚙GARAGE:
The garage/house door does not meet current standards as to separation between the house and the garage. I recommend installation of a proper door by a qualified door installation company. The door should be a solid wood door not less than 1-3/8 inches thick, a solid or honeycomb-core steel door not less than 1-3/8 inches thick, or 20-minute fire-rated door. All doors between the house and the garage are required to have a self-closure device. It should also be weather-stripped at threshold, sides and top. Improper doors can allow fumes from the garage to enter the home.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- BASEMENTF-1 BASEMENT Foundation:
Normally I recommend that a licensed foundation contractor, who utilizes the services of a licensed engineer to design repairs, be consulted to determine the necessity for repairs, design repairs deemed necessary, estimate costs and perform the repairs. Since you already have some of this engineering done, I defer to their recommendations. I am not sure when patching of the many cracks in the foundation was done, I saw no evidence of cracking since that patching was done and depending on how long ago that was, may be an indication that settlement is no longer occurring. Keeping water away from the foundation is essential to reduce settlement. Pictures below will document many of these settlement issues, but should not be construed to be all inclusive, but more representative, and it should be anticipated other concerns exist behind stored belongings and structures in the basement. Issues throughout the home related to this settlement will be discussed here to avoid duplication even though some notes will be made in the affected areas of the report to follow.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ROOFA-3 ROOF/Attic:
Modern roof installations (installed after July 1st 2014) are required to have metal flashings installed along the eaves of the roof. They are not present on this roof consistent with installation prior to that date. Damage to the edge of the sheathing is common and some amount of repairs should be anticipated when the roof is replaced. It likely would not be considered practical to install these flashings prior to roof replacement.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-18 💡ELECTRICAL:
When metal drains are installed in the home, current standards require that they be properly bonded to the electrical grounding system. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed electrical contractor to insure that all metal piping is properly bonded to the building electrical grounding system when the licensed electrical contractor is at the home for other reasons.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-19 💡ELECTRICAL:
When metallic gas pipes are installed in the home, current standards require that they be properly bonded to the electrical grounding system. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed electrical contractor to insure that all metal piping is properly bonded to the building electrical grounding system when the licensed electrical contractor is at the home for other reasons.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-21 💡ELECTRICAL:
The Dish Washer Circuit "lock-out" device was not installed. I recommend installation of lock-out device by licensed electrical contractor when they are at the home for other reasons or in the context of the panel replacement.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-28 💡ELECTRICAL:
The home has older style Knob & Tube wiring. I recommend that this wiring be maintained and not added to as additional electrical needs are addressed. I recommend that the wiring in attic spaces be replaced prior to insulating those spaces. All work on these older circuits must be performed by a licensed electrical contractor. Knob & Tube this wiring should be replaced as needs for additional wiring are called for and should not be added-to because of the solder type connections used in its original installation. Until the home can be upgraded it is recommended that these older circuits have AFCI breakers installed by a licensed electrical contractor. (See AFCI note below).
An important consideration regarding this older style wiring is that the covering often becomes brittle especially at the connection behind light fixtures where installation of over-wattage bulbs and or frequent changing of light fixtures has stressed the wires inside the junction boxes. In older installations there might not even be any junction boxes present. Overheating and arcing conditions are common at these locations and great care should be taken in opening these boxes and changing light fixtures. Obviously work on these older circuits should only be done by qualified persons. Sometimes obtaining insurance to cover homes with K & T is an issue, so make sure you familiarize yourself with your insurance carrier's requirements. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed electrical contractor- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-30 💡ELECTRICAL:
Ungrounded receptacles (circuits) in homes this age are common. With no equipment ground there is no path to trip a breaker in the event of a fault to ground or other grounded metal components. This represents a shock and fire hazard. Also the equipment ground provides a path to ground for static charges that can build up on metallic components especially sensitive electronics. Upgrading any circuits that will power sensitive electronics is recommended. Ungrounded receptacles are less problematic when they are located in areas that typically have no paths to ground (bedrooms, attics, living rooms, closets etc.).
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-31 💡ELECTRICAL:
It is quite common (and true of this home) to find ungrounded three-prong receptacles in older homes, where the receptacle have been "upgraded" to the newer three prong type without ever upgrading the ground wire. These receptacles should: (1) be returned to "two-prong" type receptacles; (2) have GFCI receptacles installed; or, (3) be rewired to include a ground wire; all by a licensed electrical contractor. Receptacles with no equipment ground can be problematic for appliances that require a ground, especially sensitive electronic equipment as there is no path to shunt to earth the static charges that build up on these electronics. Upgrading these circuits may be warranted. In addition, correction of two prong ungrounded receptacles that have been replaced with 3 prong type receptacles and they remain ungrounded can be complicated, if the replacement occurred when AFCI protection was required. There are several options:
- The receptacles can be changed back to 2 prong type receptacles (not recommended).
- The first receptacle in the circuit can be changed to a dual function (both AFCI & GFCI) type receptacle and all the downstream receptacles would then be labeled "Not Grounded."
- The circuit breakers in the panel can be replaced with dual function (both AFCI & GFCI) type breakers and all the receptacles in the circuit would then be labeled "Not Grounded.
- A ground wire can be added to the receptacle locations where feasible.
- The circuits can be rewired.
Sometimes a combination of these choices is practical. Consult with the licensed electrical contractor to determine the best course of action and associated costs.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-34 💡ELECTRICAL:
No weather-resistant receptacles were noted in the home. Electrical permits drawn after June 6, 2009 would likely require this type of receptacle at wet locations like the outside receptacles. I recommend bringing this to the attention of the builder/seller for proper repairs by the licensed electrical contractor.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-35 💡ELECTRICAL:
Loose receptacles can cause flexing of the wires at their attachments leading to arcing/overheating. Since not all receptacles are checked during an inspection, when loose receptacles are found they should be properly secured in their boxes. Sometimes this repair can be made by homeowner/handyperson--for optimum safety all electrical repairs should be made by qualified persons.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-37 💡ELECTRICAL:
In the knee-wall attics there are light fixtures that are subject to mechanical damage because of how low they are and how far into the area they protrude. I recommend replacement of all such fixtures with more appropriate fixtures by a licensed electrical contractor as a safety upgrade.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-43 💡ELECTRICAL:
Some locations have pull string type porcelain lamp holders. These are known to be fire hazards in closets due to possible proximity to stored items as well as being subject to physical damage and that the string against the bulb can catch fire. I recommend replacement of all such fixtures with closet approved type fixtures by a licensed electrical contractor.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-46 💡ELECTRICAL:
According to the NEC (National Electric Code): "Older homes are statistically more vulnerable to electrical fires. Extra protection for older homes is provided by the gradual replacement, over time, of non-AFCI-protected receptacles with new AFCI-protected ones." I recommend, for improved safety, that the home be upgraded by a licensed electrical contractor to AFCI protection wherever currently required.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-47 💡ELECTRICAL:
Currently all 120-volt, single phase, 15- and 20-ampere branch circuits supplying outlets installed in dwelling unit family rooms, dining rooms, kitchens, laundries, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, or similar rooms or areas are required to be AFCI protected per current regulations. Upgrading to current standards is recommended.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-48 💡ELECTRICAL:
In homes with Knob & Tube, Armored Cable, and Un-Grounded Non-Metallic Sheathed Cable wiring it is considered a good idea (until wiring can be replaced) to give added protection to these older circuits by adding Combination Type AFCI breakers to the circuits. These old systems are prone to the types of arcing conditions that these breakers are designed to detect. Circuits that have been compromised by the addition of post installation wiring are particularly vulnerable to these arcing conditions because connections are frequently not professionally done. I recommend that licensed electrical contractor install Arc Fault Breakers on these circuits.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-54 💡ELECTRICAL:
Modern standards required GFCI protection of all receptacles in laundry rooms. At the time of inspection there was no GFCI protection at the following locations: Washing machine, Dryer 120 volt receptacle. I recommend evaluation/repairs/upgrading by the licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical improvements.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-55 💡ELECTRICAL:
Some of the Garage receptacles are not GFCI protected (some receptacles, etc). Current requirements call for ALL 120 volt 15 amp and 20 amp receptacles in the garage be GFCI protected. Upgrading to current standards is recommended for improved safety. Consult with electrical contractor when they are at the home for other reasons.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-56 💡ELECTRICAL:
The receptacles in the basement were not GFCI protected. I recommend evaluation/improvements by the licensed electrical contractor. Currently all basement 125 volt receptacles are required to be GFCI protected.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ELECTRICAL-61 💡ELECTRICAL:
No Carbon monoxide alarm/detectors were observed outside the sleeping room areas. I recommend that homeowner/handyperson install a carbon monoxide alarm/detector according to the manufacturers specifications. These alarm/detectors are currently required in all homes. They are currently required on each floor level of the home and outside each sleeping area of the home. A plug-in type detector with digital readout is preferred. They are required to be maintained to the manufacturer's instructions by the tenant of the home. Sometimes there are combination smoke/carbon monoxide alarm/detectors in the home.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
- PLUMBING-9 🚿PLUMBING:
Adding anti-siphon devices to the frost free faucets is recommended. These devices are readily available at Lowes/Home Depot and can be installed by homeowner/handyperson. Small amounts of water can remain in the anti-siphon device that can freeze in winter and cause damage to the device. Inside the device, where the water comes out, there is a lever that needs to be moved to drain this small amount of water. This will help protect the device from freeze damage. Upgrading to faucets that have integral anti-siphon devices is recommended to avoid this issue.
- 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- WINDOWS-5 WINDOWS:
Some of the windows have been installed with no head flashings. Even windows that are "self-flashing" (have a built in nail-flange) still require a metal head flashing to properly protect the window from water intrusion. Sometimes these connections are merely caulked. Until proper head flashings can be installed, I recommend the caulk be vigilantly maintained annually. This may or may not be wholly successful, especially on more exposed locations. I recommend proper head flashings be installed by a qualified siding or window installation contractor.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- WINDOWS-6 WINDOWS:
Most of the windows in the home are older style (original) single pane wood windows. There are cracks and poor/missing glazing and most are painted shut or otherwise not functional (broken/deteriorating sash components, broken sash cords, broken/missing locking mechanisms, missing lift handles, cracked glass (other than those pictured below should be anticipated), scratched glass, missing screens etc). I recommend factoring replacement of all of the windows in the home by a qualified window installation company. All of these windows should be properly maintained until they can be replaced. Window replacement should include evaluation/repair/replacement of trim/sills and related components as well.
The bedroom windows should be replaced to allow for proper secondary escape and rescue in case of fire or other emergency.
- 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- EXTERIORDOORS-2 🚪EXTERIOR DOORS:
The front exterior doors could benefit from upgrading for energy efficiency and safety. It has cosmetic issues as well as defects related to age and use. Replacement of the doors can improve overall energy efficiency of the home as well as improve security of the home. Until these doors can be replaced by a qualified door installation company, I recommend that they be maintained well painted and sealed to protect the home from damage from the elements.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- EXTERIORDOORS-6 🚪EXTERIOR DOORS:
The north entryway door has a dead bolt that is keyed on both sides. I recommend that these types of security locksets be replaced with dead-bolts with turn handles for safety in the event of a need to use the door in an emergency.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- S-9 Stairs:
Modern standards call for handrails for stairways to be continuous for the full length of the flight, from a point directly above the top riser of the flight to a point directly above lowest riser of the flight. The ends of the handrail should be returned to the wall or terminate in newel posts or safety terminals. The handrails adjacent to a wall should have a space of not less than 1-1/2 inch (38 mm) between the wall and the handrails. To improve the safe use of the stairs I recommend that a continuous type railing be installed by a qualified stair railing installation company. Installing a proper continuous handrail on these difficult stairs would make a good improvement to help with some of its other short comings.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- UNSR-1 🛌Upper North Sleeping Room:
The materials used on the walls and ceilings of all the upper level rooms is a fiber-board of unknown brand but looks like Homosote. It is poorly finishes with many seams showing and other physical damage and staining. No further recommendation at this time and no determination is made as to whether it contains asbestos or not. Testing is the only way to know. This information will not be repeated for the other upper room areas including the hallway and stairwell.
- ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- MB-3 🛀Main Bathroom:
The grout around the bottom of the tiles where they connect with the tub have been caulked over. Caulking this connection can result in trapping of moisture behind the tiles/caulk resulting in mold growth behind the caulk. This connection should either be grouted only or per current best practice recommendations should be filled with sanded caulk. I recommend proper repairs of this connection by a qualified tile installation company as desired or when it visually becomes necessary (discolors).
- 🔧 Maintenance 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- BT-3 🛀Basement Toilet:
The basement toilet area has no ventilation fan. I recommend that a proper timer controlled exhaust fan be installed in the area by a qualified ventilation contractor.
- ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- K-6 🍲Kitchen:
Hammer arresters are required by modern standards at appliances that have quick shut-off electronic valves. These devices protect the valve and plumbing from damage. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed plumber in the context of other plumbing repairs.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- L-8 🧺Laundry:
Rubber hoses on washing machines are under constant pressure and are at risk of spontaneous rupture. Consider upgrading these hoses to newer stainless steel jacketed type with flood-stop devices; monitor existing hoses frequently.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- L-9 🧺Laundry:
Hammer arresters are required by modern standards at appliances that have quick shut-off electronic valves. These devices protect the valve and plumbing from damage. I recommend upgrading by a licensed plumber in the context of other plumbing repairs.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- L-10 🧺Laundry:
Washers that drain into a laundry sink are prone to clogging the sink drain. I recommend that a proper stand pipe be installed for the washing machine so that it doesn't have to drain into the sink. Consult with a licensed plumber as to installation/upgrade.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Monitors
- GROUNDS-7 GROUNDS:
Proper function of driveway drains is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend that proper function be both determined and maintained. If drains are present and accessible, one method to verify function is to run a hose into them for a prolonged time and see whether water backs up out of the drain. While some can be inspected by remote camera, most sewer scoping companies do not scope these smaller drains. There is also a downspout that adds roof water to the work this drain is expected to do. Relocation of this drain may be warranted if flooding occurs.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- GROUNDS-8 GROUNDS:
Proper function of basement stairwell drains is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend that proper function be both determined and maintained. If drains are present and accessible, one method to verify function is to run a hose into them for a prolonged time and see whether water backs up out of the drain. While some can be inspected by remote camera, most sewer scoping companies do not scope these smaller drains. The point of termination for the exterior stairwell drain was not determined. I recommend verification that it is properly terminated and if not, that it be terminated to an approved locations. I recommend evaluation/repairs as deemed necessary by a qualified party.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ROOFA-17 ROOF/Attic:
The chimney/roof Counter flashing may or may not be adequate. Some tar was noted on connections, but appeared to be keeping water out of the roof structure. I recommend routine maintenance and inspection every year by a qualified party. At some point the rusting flashings will need to be replaced---perhaps with the next roof replacement.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Due Diligences
- BUILDINGEXTERIOR-5 🏡BUILDING EXTERIOR:
There should be adequate clearances between trim components and concrete structures. Currently there are inadequate clearances at the front garage door trim--both sides and basement entryway door. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a qualified party.
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade
- BASEMENTF-2 BASEMENT Foundation:
There are areas of efflorescence present on the inside of the basement space along the west side. This efflorescence is an indication that moisture is finding (or has found) its way through the foundation. As the moisture evaporates it leaves this crystalline deposit called efflorescence. Extending the downspouts away from the foundation at least 5 feet can greatly mitigate this moisture condition. For a better solution consider installing a new tight-line drain around the home to collect all of the downspouts and carry the water away from the home. The only truly effective means of eliminating this problem moisture is to dig around the outside and properly seal the foundation from the outside and install new footing drains and tight-line drains. Storage in the basement limited assessment of the extent of efflorescence (as well as other conditions) on basement walls and floors.
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade
- ROOFA-2 ROOF/Attic:
Do to the steepness and inability to get to the ridge of the roof, the roof was not walked and the ridge was not traversed. There may be conditions with the chimneys and the roof and other roof components that were not found at the time of inspection and if you would like a more thorough evaluation I can come back with climbing gear and/or taller ladder for a better evaluation.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- PLUMBING-14 🚿PLUMBING:
At the time of inspection no basement floor drain was located. Whenever basement floors are below finish grade installation of floor drains is considered a good idea to protect against severe flooding of the basement. Discuss with plumber as to options.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor
- PLUMBING-16 🚿PLUMBING:
Stating the home is on a public sewage system is based on listing information, other public resources and lack of obvious observable indications of an on site sewage disposal system. It is possible that I may not be able to determine which type of disposal system is present with 100% certainty. It is it is not likely, sufficient water will be used during the course of the inspection that would duplicate actual use of the drainage systems of the home under all scenarios. Plugged drains are quite common in homes and the interior condition of drains can not typically be determined or predicted. I recommend you utilize all resources available to verify the type of system, to your satisfaction.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor
- PLUMBING-17 🚿PLUMBING:
Proper function and life expectancy of the main sewer drains is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend that if there are concerns about the function of the main sewer drain that it be evaluated by a licensed plumber with a Spectra-Scope. It is not likely in the course of the standard home inspection that large enough quantities of water will be drained to determine the adequacy of the drains. Proper function of house drain to the city sewer is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend that proper function be both determined and maintained. The best method to verify function is to have them inspected with a remote camera device. This is rarely a concern in new or newer homes.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor
- PLUMBING-19 🚿PLUMBING:
The main plumbing drain clean-out was not located at the time of inspection. One may be hidden or covered over or simply not present. Sometimes removing the toilet is necessary for drain cleaning or scoping of the drain. All plumbing systems should have a proper clean-out and in the context of other plumbing repairs, I recommend one be installed by a licensed plumber. Asking the seller if they know where it is located is also recommended.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor
- PLUMBING-33 🚿PLUMBING:
It was also noted the TPRV drain has a plastic threaded adapter at the attachment to the valve. This is not allowed per the manufacturer of the CPVC type pipe. Also the plastic pipe is not allowed so close to the draft hood due to the potential for melting during back-drafting. I recommend evaluation/repairs and/or replacement as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber in the context of other plumbing repairs done at the home.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ
- HEATINGCOOLING-2 🔥❄️HEATING /COOLING:
It is not always possible to determine if any kind of underground storage tank is present on the site. If a tank is present and has been abandoned, many local ordinances often require that the tank be decommissioned or removed. Each jurisdiction has its own rules regarding decommissioning and they should be consulted regarding specific requirements. Many gas heated homes were once heated with oil and when converted these tanks were never removed. The history of this property is not known to me and therefore I cannot confirm if an abandoned oil storage tank exists on the property. I highly recommend that a search be conducted to determine if any abandoned heating oil tanks remain on this property. Unknown or abandoned tanks are common place. A tank search is performed with specialized sub-surface tank detection equipment. It is possible that a tank may still be present. Finding a tank after ownership can result in a significant expense for removal or cleanup to the new homeowner. The testing of an active heating oil tank or the location of an abandoned heating oil tank is beyond the scope of this home inspection.
🛑 Safety
- NESR-2 🛌NE Sleeping Room:
The older sprayed-on acoustic ceilings in the home typically contained a small amount of asbestos (5 to 7%). Only laboratory testing can confirm the presence of asbestos. For more info (including information on safe removal) check the links below. Generally it is advised to not disturb the material and keep it from becoming friable by maintaining paint. Asbestos Information Puget Sound Clean Air, Asbestos Information
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- SESR-2 🛌SE Sleeping Room:
The older acoustic ceiling in the _____ typically contained a small amount of asbestos (5 to 7%). Only laboratory testing can confirm the presence of asbestos. For more info (including information on safe removal) check the links below. Generally it is advised to not disturb the material and keep it from becoming friable by maintaining paint. Asbestos Information Puget Sound Clean Air, Asbestos Information
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ
- MB-6 🛀Main Bathroom:
I recommend verification the toilet is properly caulked to the floor. This helps keep the toilet stable and makes cleaning around the toilet easier.
- 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
- K-10 🍲Kitchen:
Many modern gas ranges have auto-relight functions for the burners. In the event that a gust of wind were to blow out the flame--especially when adjusted to low--the re-light function allows the burner to re-light itself for safety. This particular unit does not appear to have that function and no determination is made as to whether it can be added or not. Upgrade/modify as desired. No further recommendation at this time.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade
- K-11 🍲Kitchen:
Current regulations allow the unit's gas shut-off to be behind the unit and consider this location to be "accessible." At the time of inspection it was not possible to verify its presence. I recommend verifying that the shut-off is currently installed in an "approved" location. If it is found to not be present, I recommend proper repairs by licensed plumber.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade
Future Projects
- ID-3 Interior Doors:
Many of the interior doors Doors show signs of "wear and tear" and some damage. Upgrade as desired.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- S-1 Stairs:
Modern standards require that stairwells be a minimum of 36" wide. Stairwells to Attic spaces and Second floor remodeled areas are often less than 36" wide, are steep and have other defects. Care must be exercised using these stairs to avoid injury to persons. Relocation/changes to these stairs (while recommended) is usually difficult.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
- S-2 Stairs:
It is common for stairs to the basement and attic levels in homes of this age to not meet current standards. Improper side barriers, handrails, tread depth, riser height, head room etc are common. Changes to these stairs for safety may be warranted but often times adjustments are difficult and/or expensive.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- S-4 Stairs:
Modern standards require that stairwells be a minimum of 36" wide. Stairwells to Attic spaces and Second floor remodeled areas are often less than 36" wide, are steep and have other defects. Care must be exercised using these stairs to avoid injury to persons. Relocation/changes to these stairs (while recommended) is usually difficult.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- S-5 Stairs:
It is common for stairs to the basement levels in homes of this age to not meet current standards. Improper side barriers, handrails, tread depth, riser height, head room etc are common. Changes to these stairs for safety may be warranted but often times adjustments are difficult and/or expensive.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- S-6 Stairs:
The winders at the basement stairs do not have proper minimum tread width at the tight end. This is common in older homes. This condition allows for less than desirable tread width in the walking path--which can lead to falls on the stairs. Repairs would likely be difficult----I recommend further evaluation by qualified stair installation company if desired for improved safety.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- S-7 Stairs:
From any stair nosing in the run of the stairs, the minimum headroom vertical from the nosing to the lowest overhead point is required to be more than 6'-8." Repairs when clearances are too low, run from possible to not practical. In older homes this condition is common. As desired, I recommend evaluation/repairs by a qualified general contractor that utilizes the services of a structural engineer if deemed necessary.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- S-8 Stairs:
Proper handrails on stairs can promote safe use of the stairs and prevent falls that can result in serious injury or even death. Handrails are required to meet specific guidelines on all stairs with 4 risers or more. In some cases they are prudent on stairs with fewer risers. The handrail is required to be graspable as defined in the building codes. There are three basic types and the following info applies to the handrail(s) at this location: Type I Handrail
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- L-11 🧺Laundry:
All laundry rooms, per current standards, require some means of mechanical ventilation. This laundry room has none. I recommend installation of proper ventilation by a qualified ventilation contractor. Keep in mind that adding exhaust may compromise make-up air to appliances like dryers and additional make-up air may need to be provided (transoms, cutting off the bottom of doors, etc).
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Efficiencies
- BASEMENTF-15 BASEMENT Foundation:
The basement exterior walls are not insulated. To improve energy efficiency I recommend the walls be properly insulated by a qualified insulation contractor experienced in insulating basements and is knowledgeable in the concerns with covering walls below grade. Moisture issues related to improperly insulated basemen walls are very common and results in hidden damage over time. Careful evaluation of current conditions to mitigate any existing moisture conditions and to prevent future moisture issues is necessary. Basement walls with obvious efflorescence should not be covered until the causes of this efflorescence have been addressed.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
- ROOFA-10 ROOF/Attic:
The insulation and weather-stripping on the attic access hatches is not present consistent with the age of the home and that no energy saving improvements have been made to the home. I recommend repairs by a qualified party in the context of energy saving improvements done to the home. Missing weather-stripping allows warm moist air into the attic and missing insulation contributes to higher energy costs both in heating and cooling. These recommendations apply to all attic spaces and will not be repeated below.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- ROOFA-13 ROOF/Attic:
There is currently no insulation in the attic spaces or walls of the home. I recommend that for energy conservation (both heating and cooling) that a qualified insulation contractor insulate the attic to current standards. I also recommend that all changes in the electrical system that involve the attic space and walls be performed prior to upgrading the insulation; and, that all spaces that can allow the transfer of heat/moisture from the home and/or wall cavities be properly air-sealed by qualified parties. All areas that need fire-blocking should also be improved. These recommendations apply to all attic spaces and will not be repeated below.
- 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- PLUMBING-7 🚿PLUMBING:
None of the hot water supply piping in the garage and in the basement is properly insulated. I recommend a qualified person install insulation for energy conservation.
- 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ
- HEATINGCOOLING-13 🔥❄️HEATING /COOLING:
As an energy upgrade the ductwork in the Basement should be properly insulated---perhaps in conjunction with the upgrading of the insulation in the rest of the basement space.
- 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- HEATINGCOOLING-15 🔥❄️HEATING /COOLING:
A permanent certificate shall be completed by the builder or registered design professional and posted on a wall in the space where the furnace is located, a utility room, or an approved location inside the building. When located on an electrical panel, the certificate shall not cover or obstruct the visibility of the circuit directory label, service disconnect label, or other required labels. The certificate shall list the predominant R-values of insulation installed in or on ceiling/roof, walls, foundation (slab, below-grade wall, and/or floor) and ducts outside conditioned spaces; U-factors for fenestration and the solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC) of fenestration, and the results from any required duct system and building envelope air leakage testing done on the building. Where there is more than one value for each component, the certificate shall list the value covering the largest area. The certificate shall list the types and efficiencies of heating, cooling and service water heating equipment. Where a gas-fired unvented room heater, electric furnace, or baseboard electric heater is installed in the residence, the certificate shall list "gas-fired unvented room heater," "electric furnace" or "baseboard electric heater," as appropriate. An efficiency shall not be listed for gas-fired unvented room heaters, electric furnaces or electric baseboard heaters. (R401.3)
- ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- EXTERIORDOORS-5 🚪EXTERIOR DOORS:
Ghosting from air leakage at weather-stripping around the door is consistent with door not closing tightly against the weather-stripping and is indicative of air leakage when the house is under negative and/or positive pressure.
- 🔧 Maintenance 🐞 WDO’s 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
- K-14 🍲Kitchen:
The ductwork in the crawl space for the exhaust fan is not insulated. As an upgrade this duct should be insulated in the context of other energy savings improvements.
- 🔧 Maintenance 🐞 WDO’s 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Notes
- LBNL1-1 Last-But-Not_Least:
- Buyers sometimes ask for samples or records of paint colors used on the premises.
- Buyers sometimes ask for records of major improvement /repairs (remodeling, new roof, etc.).
- Buyers sometimes ask for all available owner's manuals for: Furnace, Appliances, Fan Timers etc.
- Buyers will want to obtain keys/combinations to all locks.
- Buyers will want information on decommissioned oil tanks.
- Buyers will want keys to the gas shut-offs of the fireplaces.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Reading the Observations in This Report
The Observations (Narratives) are the Story about the Structure. Sometimes these narratives can benefit from additional qualifiers to better inform the reader. For example, it would be unusual for any adverse condition that is a "safety" issue, to not also have "maintenance" aspects, need "monitoring" or that could even benefit from "upgrading". At the same time it might be subject to wood destroying organisms. Below, is a list of the additional qualifiers used in this report.
Other Modifiers: in the report, only the applicable icons and bold text will be attached to the narratives for efficiency
🛑 Safety: The issue being reported on has relevant safety concerns that may or may not the primary focus of the narrative.
🔧 Maintenance: The issue being reported on has relevant maintenance aspects that are not the primary focus of the narrative.
👁🗨Monitor: The issue being reported on warrants monitoring in a specified time-frame even while not being the primary focus of the narrative.
🐞 WDO's: While perhaps not the primary focus of the narrative, there are conditions conducive to Wood Destroying Organisms.
➕ Upgrade: While upgrading may not be the primary focus of the narrative, it may be something that could be done to repair/improve/replace the issue either now or later.
🌲 Energy Efficiency and/or IAQ: While not the primary focus of this narrative, there are energy efficiency and/or indoor air quality aspects to it.
🔍 DUE DILIGENCE: Reasonable steps should be taken such that you are fully informed, confident and satisfied with your knowledge of the issue.
General Property Info
Building Characteristics / Conditions
Type of Building: Single Family (1-1/2 story)
Approximate Square Footage: 2190
Approximate Year of Original Construction: 1929
🕔Inspection Start Time: 10:00 am
Finish Time: 2:00 pm
Total Time: 4 hours
👨👦👦 Those present at the property at the time of Inspection: homeowner
Occupancy: occupied
🎥Surveillance Cameras & Security System noted: None seen
Animals/Pets Present: No
Weather during the inspection: 🌦️Rain off and on, ☁️Cloudy
🌡️Approximate temperature during the inspection: 40° F ± 5°
Ground/Soil surface conditions: Wet
Days since last significant rainfall: A couple of days
General Comments
Building Characteristics / Conditions
Suggested Repairs and Re-inspections: General Recommendations
When repairs are made on the home, I recommend that I be called back to verify that corrections have been satisfactorily made. A minimum assessment of $250.00 will be charged for each Work Order Evaluation Inspection that is requested and performed. Additional charges will accrue for anything in writing, beyond an email response, and for evaluations at more than 20 miles travel time--these costs to be agreed upon at the time of the request for further evaluation. REMEDIAL WORK – For any element or condition requiring attention, quotes should be obtained prior to closing from qualified specialists or contractors to determine actual repair/replacement costs. Any cost estimates provided, whether oral or written, represent only an approximation of possible costs. Also, any cost estimates do not reflect all possible remedial needs or costs for the property; latent concerns or consequential damage may exist. If the need for remedial work develops or is uncovered after the inspection, contact Charles Buell Inspections, Inc. to arrange an inspection to assess conditions prior to performing any repairs.
- IF THERE ARE ITEMS WITHIN THIS REPORT THAT REQUIRE RE-INSPECTION, YOU ARE ENCOURAGED TO HAVE ME COMMUNICATE DIRECTLY WITH THOSE HIRED TO MAKE THE CORRECTIONS TO ENSURE THAT REPAIRS ARE PROPERLY MADE AND THE RECOMMENDATIONS ARE UNDERSTOOD.
- Any suggestions of how something might be corrected is done as a courtesy and is based on my experience. It should not be construed to mean these suggestions are the only way to make repairs, the best way to make repairs, or even the wholly correct way to make repairs. Other factors not seen at the time of inspection can result in other requirements etc. The qualified parties hired to make the repairs should be relied upon for their solutions as they will be the ones liable for them and should be in the best position to determine the best course of action.
- There are many things that can be done to improve safety and living conditions within any home. While many of these issues come to light in the course of the Standard Home Inspection there are likely to be other things that can be done to improve the home. Additional information can be found at: Center for Healthy Living
- 🔍 Due Diligence
🌈 A Note about thermal imaging: 🌈, .
During this inspection, a thermal imaging camera was used superficially to check walls and ceilings for thermal anomalies and also to check specific appliances for verification of some degree of function. Thermal imaging cameras use the infrared light spectrum to build a picture of the house based on surface temperatures. Experienced thermographers look for clues in these thermal images that could lead us to find concealed water leaks or missing air or thermal barriers. In older homes, incomplete air and thermal barriers are so common, we will only report on items that look significantly deficient and are worthy of correction. In modern construction if could result in finding areas of missing insulation, weather-stripping and other deficiencies the builder would still be responsible for. This limited service is included in the inspection and should not be construed to be a complete thermal mapping of the house. The use of an infrared camera is well beyond the minimum standards for a home inspection, but I offer this service because I know it can provide valuable information that cannot be gained in other ways. Relevant thermal images will be included in the report.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Residential Homes: General Information
In the course of the inspection I am looking for obvious, and not so obvious, clues as to problems with components or systems. At times, a repair can be as expensive as replacement and sometimes additional problems or damage are found when work begins. In fact, a defect in one system or component can cause a related problem at another location that was not apparent at the time of the inspection. It is recommended that you obtain -- at a minimum -- estimates from specialists for service/repairs or replacement/upgrades of any components or systems that may be potentially costly, dangerous or complex to fix or replace--in a time frame consistent with proper due diligence. If repairs are completed prior to closing, the you will minimize the chances of any unexpected surprises after closing. In performing one's due diligence, it is important the client not only follow through on the recommendations I make in this report but any other concerns that may arise in the course of called for repairs. This report should never be taken as an end in itself, but merely part of the ""process"" of due diligence. It is in no way meant to interfere with the decisions you must make in order to move forward with the transaction, it is merely what I consider best advice.
While on-site, all professional repair people should be asked to further evaluate the condition of the system, structural components or device that he or she is working on. Often one problem will lead to another related issue which can require further repairs or replacement. If remodeling is done, where walls and ceilings are opened, wallpaper removed, homeowners may find some concealed issues that will also have to be addressed during the remodel. Because the home inspector is a generalist, this policy further protects the client.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Property lines: What are the property boundaries?
Determining the location of property boundary lines is beyond the scope of a Standard Home Inspection and can typically only be determined by a licensed surveyor.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Having Repairs Done: at the home
All construction work performed under these specifications must meet standard, good construction practices as to quality of workmanship and materials. Pest control measures must be performed by state licensed applicators in conformance with all current federal, state and local laws. A fee of 💲250.00 will be charged for each Work Order Evaluation Inspection or consultation that is requested of, and conducted by the INSPECTOR. Additional charges will accrue for anything in writing beyond an email response and for evaluations at more than 20 miles travel time-- these costs to be agreed upon at the time of the request for further evaluation.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Pre-Listing: House not for Sale
Throughout the report there are "built-in" comments that apply more to homes that are for sale but have been left in the report for the information value--please excuse any possible confusion due to the wording. The inspection is a "snap-shot" of the home as it appeared at the time of inspection and no warranty as to future issues is implied.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Storage/Belongings: In House, Garage
There was some storage and belongings throughout the home that made observation of covered surfaces difficult. The chances that hidden defects will be found when the home is emptied is possible. For a more complete opinion of the overall condition of the home I recommend further evaluation of the home when the house is vacated.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
There was much storage and belongings in the garage that made observation of covered surfaces virtually impossible. The chances that hidden defects will be found when the detached structure is emptied is possible, including electrical issues. For a more complete opinion of the overall condition I recommend further evaluation of the space when the garage is vacated.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Deferred/Cosmetic: Deferred inside and outside
There is a some deferred maintenance and cosmetic defects in the home--both inside and out. No attempt is made to identify all of these issues but will be mentioned in relation to more serious concerns throughout the report.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Safety Glazing in Hazardous Locations: General information about Safety Glass and where it is required.
The requirements for safety glazing in homes is evolving. Where applicable throughout the report, some locations that require safety glass will be discussed, including, bathrooms, doors, windows etc. Upgrading locations that are missing safety glass is always prudent and this can be done with changing the glass, installing barriers including protective films that can be installed on the glass.
- 🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Building component life expectancy: The National Association of Home Builders
Throughout this report there will be "guesstimates" of life expectancy provided. Many of these guesstimates are based on estimates from the National Association of Home Builders as well as based on experience and regional differences. They are not exact and should not be considered anything but a general guide.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Codes, Standards and Manufacturer's instructions:
In the report there may be instances where specific building codes, other standards and manufacturer's instructions may be specifically quoted. This in no way should be construed to mean this inspection is a code compliance inspection or that all manufacturer's instructions are known or checked. These instances are only provided as a courtesy in assisting with specific instances. There may be other exceptions to these examples that are also applicable and a full evaluation by the appropriate trade is recommended.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
🧀 Mold or what appears to be mold: General information about mold is provided below
The Standard Home Inspection does not attempt to identify whether the type of Mold or what looks like Mold seen on the premises are of types considered to have adverse health affects. Concerns regarding the toxicity of Mold is deferred to qualified Industrial Hygienists who should be contacted regarding any concerns that you might have about Mold found on the property. Please see the information below regarding Mold from the EPA.
Mold (a type of fungus) is a wood inhabiting organism, not a wood destroying organism.
Ten Things You Should Know About Mold (from the EPA):
- Potential health effects and symptoms associated with mold exposures include allergic reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints.
- There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.
- If mold is a problem in your home or school, you must clean up the mold and eliminate sources of moisture.
- Fix the source of the water problem or leak to prevent mold growth.
- Reduce indoor humidity (to 30-60% ) to decrease mold growth by: venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating sources to the outside; using air conditioners and de-humidifiers; increasing ventilation; and using exhaust fans whenever cooking, dish-washing, and cleaning.
- Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth.
- Clean mold off hard surfaces with water and detergent, and dry completely. Absorbent materials such as ceiling tiles, that are moldy, may need to be replaced.
- Prevent condensation: Reduce the potential for condensation on cold surfaces (i.e., windows, piping, exterior walls, roof, or floors) by adding insulation.
- In areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem, do not install carpeting (i.e., by drinking fountains, by classroom sinks, or on concrete floors with leaks or frequent condensation).
- Molds can be found almost anywhere; they can grow on virtually any substance, providing moisture is present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods.
Mold information from the EPA and MOLD,
The following link is a very good "practical" video about dealing with mold in the home: NW Clean Air Agency,
The following link is a very good source for the most current information regarding mold in the home: Health Effects of Indoor Mold,
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
GROUNDS
Topography and Conditions around the building
GEOLOGICAL FACTORS: What about the land the house is built on?
This report does not include evaluation of any soils or geological conditions/concerns. Construction on certain soils, particularly expansive clays, fill soils, hillside and waterfront areas, necessitate special design consideration. Evaluation of these factors, or the need for them, is beyond the scope of this inspection. Pertinent information should be obtained from local officials and/or a qualified specialists, particularly if any concerns are detected or if the home is in a detrimental soils area.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
PROPERTY DRAINAGE: What about the property drainage?
To maintain proper drainage away from the structure, soil adjacent to the foundation should slope at least 1 inch per foot for five feet away from the building. Paved areas should slope at least 1/4 inch per foot. Control of surface drainage is critical to keeping basements and crawl spaces dry. A clearance of 6 inches should be maintained from the soil to the bottom of wood siding or trim on the home, unless the material is pressure treated wood or other material approved for ground contact. Swales around homes can help manage water and reduce its impact on the home.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Site Conditions/Locations: Below the surface conditions not determined
Sometimes the surface around the home appears to slope properly but fill has been added on top of surfaces that actually slope toward the foundation. While this cannot be observed at the time of an inspection, moisture conditions in the interior of the basement may be related to this type of improper drainage. Underlying soils below the finish surface (grass etc) should slope properly away from the home and be relatively impermeable.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Grading Around Home/Building: Areas of likely ponding evident depending on natural ability of soils to drain
Low Slope: House on Low Slope, portions of property flat sloped
Homes on low slopes, with areas that are flat, can have water related issues that can not be adequately predicted or observed in a Standard Home Inspection. Vigilant monitoring of the sub-surface spaces (and the grading around the home) is recommended. Water intrusions/conditions should be evaluated/repaired by a licensed drainage installation company that utilizes the services of a licensed geo-technical engineer.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Improving grading around the home to minimize the flow of surface water toward the foundation is recommended. This is primarily a concern at the north and east sides of the home where the ground is flat creating an opportunity for ponding water against the foundation. Some amount of seasonal ponding can be expected in this area depending on the ability of soils to provide adequate drainage. Repairs should be done by a licensed landscape contractor (it is more complicated that merely adding dirt to the area--a proper drainage plane must be re-created). Even flat areas can not affect the foundation so much as long as out of sight conditions underground are done properly.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence.
Drainage Systems
Underground Pipe Drainage Systems: Some drains noted
Driveway Drains: Central drain present (Point of termination not determined)
Exterior stairwell drains: Stairwell drain present, Point of termination not determined
Tight-line drains (roof water drains): Tight-line drains are for the collection of roof water independent of footing drains., Location or appropriateness of tight-line pipe termination not determined, Presence of tight-line drains not determined, Could not be determined
Proper function of tight-line drains (drains that the downspouts connect to) is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend that proper function be both determined and maintained. If drains are present and accessible, one method to verify function is to run a hose into them for a prolonged time and see whether water backs up out of the drain. While some can be inspected by remote camera, most sewer scoping companies do not scope these drains.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Footing drains: Footing drain point of termination not determined, Location or appropriateness of footing drain pipe termination not determined, Presence of footing drain pipes not determined
The Perimeter/Footing Drains of homes cannot be evaluated in the context of a home inspection--including determining if they are even present. Evaluation relies on visual clues present at the time of inspection. I saw no evidence the perimeter drains are not functional at the time of inspection but seasonal conditions may apply.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Proper function of driveway drains is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend that proper function be both determined and maintained. If drains are present and accessible, one method to verify function is to run a hose into them for a prolonged time and see whether water backs up out of the drain. While some can be inspected by remote camera, most sewer scoping companies do not scope these smaller drains. There is also a downspout that adds roof water to the work this drain is expected to do. Relocation of this drain may be warranted if flooding occurs.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Proper function of basement stairwell drains is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend that proper function be both determined and maintained. If drains are present and accessible, one method to verify function is to run a hose into them for a prolonged time and see whether water backs up out of the drain. While some can be inspected by remote camera, most sewer scoping companies do not scope these smaller drains. The point of termination for the exterior stairwell drain was not determined. I recommend verification that it is properly terminated and if not, that it be terminated to an approved locations. I recommend evaluation/repairs as deemed necessary by a qualified party.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
🌳Vegetation on Property
Vegetation 🌳: Satisfactorily maintained away from the building
All vegetation should be routinely maintained and not allowed to contact the house siding and other components. This is considered routine maintenance that any building owner should be vigilant about to prevent physical damage to the building, lower the risk of water intrusion to the building lower the risk of vermin entering the building and to lower the risk of wood destroying organisms affecting the building.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Driveways/Walkways
Vehicle Access to Property: Driveway, Slopes downward toward garage, Driveway very narrow
Concrete Driveway: Conditions of concrete
Street Sidewalk: Present, Street concrete sidewalk conditions
Public walkways at the street along the property can have concerns pertinent to the homeowner. Maintenance of these walkways is often the responsibility of the property owner and defects such as trip hazards and the presence of snow/ice can lead to increased liability if persons are injured.
- 🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Property Walkways: Present, Property Concrete walkway conditions
Walkways on the property can have concerns pertinent to the homeowner. Maintenance of these walkways is important and defects such as trip hazards and the presence of snow/ice can lead to increased liability if persons are injured.
- 🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Exterior Stairs to Basement: Poured Concrete Retaining Wall:
Stairwell Stairs: Concrete (poured in place)
Stairwell Handrail: Handrail conditions (no Hand Rail--while not required--recommended)
Drain at Bottom of stairs: Point of termination or even whether it drains anywhere not determined
There were numerous conditions with the sidewalk that should be evaluated and repaired by a qualified party. Some areas merely need monitoring and maintenance. There was cracking evident, surface Settlement Evident, mechanical damage. Much of the damage appears to be on the neighbor's portion of the sidewalk. Sometimes jurisdictions have approved contractor lists for these kinds of repairs/replacement.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Retaining Walls
Retaining Wall General Information: Wall(s) present
Retaining walls are subject to movement if water pressure builds up behind a wall that has not been provided with proper drainage. Walls should be vertical or lean slightly to the high side of the slope. If the wall is cracked or tilted forward, it is likely to be failing and should be further evaluated by a structural engineer. The structural capabilities of retaining walls cannot typically be determined in a visual inspection and inspection relies on visible conditions present at the time of inspection.
- 🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Poured Concrete Retaining walls: Sides of driveway, Conditions of retaining wall
All retaining walls require maintenance and monitoring. The retaining wall at the sides of the driveway has conditions that should be addressed by a qualified party that utilizes the services of a licensed structural engineer when necessary. The wall has the following conditions:
- cracking typical of age and type of construction,
- vertical cracks,
- vertical shear,
- settlement cracks,
- leaning, etc.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Fences
Fences: Not inspected
Fences around the property are generally excluded from the Standard Home Inspection. However, some information is provided as a courtesy and points of connection to the home itself are inspected. Fences can represent safety issues when they become damaged, derelict or otherwise compromised. Wood decay/rot is common. It also typically cannot be determined who actually owns the fence and communication with neighbors is often necessary to accomplish repairs and/or replacement. Specific evaluation of the fences on the property may be warranted.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Grounds
Grounds Limitations and Exclusions: Standard Home Inspection Exclusions
A Standard Home Inspection does not include evaluation of elements such as site lighting, irrigation systems, sheds, fencing, landscaping retaining structures, retaining walls, and/or recreational elements on the site. Evaluation of these elements, if present, may be warranted, any comments made or made as a courtesy, whether done verbally or included in the written report. The following limitations and exclusions were noted:
- Fences that surround the property are typically not inspected----except as an additional service.
- Soil and slope stability and hydrological conditions are not within the scope of this inspection.
- The functionality of underground drainage components cannot be determined during a typical inspection.
- Storage in driveway
- 🔍 Due Diligence
🏡BUILDING EXTERIOR
Exterior Walls
Exterior Wall Structure: Wall structure (Wood Frame)
House Numbers/Letters Identification: House Numbers/Letters (Numbers present on house)
In an emergency it is important for authorities and service personnel to readily locate the home. The homeowner should make sure that house numbers are maintained visible from street (both night and day). Modern requirements call for numbers/letters to be a minimum of 4" high and placed on a contrasting surface and lighted.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Visibility: Visible from street
Building Sheathing: Present
Solid Boards: Typical of time of construction, Basement pony walls, Visible at gable ends of attic
Exterior Wall Coverings: Multiple layers
It is common to find multiple layers of different siding materials installed on homes. It is not usually possible to determine the condition or types of materials used in these buried layers. Various adverse moisture conditions can be created with these multiple layers of siding. I endeavor to determine visual signs of problems related to these multiple layers but hidden damage is always a possibility.
Cedar Shingles
General information: Machined shingles, around front entryway stoop only
Surface Finishes: Painted
Asbestos-Cement Siding
General Information: Present, "Shake" style, Method of attachment (Face nailed)
Surface Finishes: Painted, Minimal to moderate paint failure--localized, Paint blisters (Some blistering of paint noted on the south side )
Cladding Issues: Gaps not caulked at, Evidence of patching/repairs, Mechanical Damage, Some Gaps, cracks, pipe penetrations, mechanical damage
Mechanical damage/Layers/Associated Interior Defects: Mechanical Damage, Layers of siding (Over other layers/types of siding)
The house siding is the older style cement siding that is assumed to contain asbestos. The EPA guidelines for this material call for leaving it in place and maintaining the material well painted and to avoid cutting or doing anything to the siding that would allow the fibers to become "friable". Repairs to the siding can be made with new cement siding that is made to look like this older material but does not contain Asbestos. GAF Replacement siding for damaged Asbestos Siding
For more information regarding asbestos in relation to this siding see: EPA Asbestos Information, http://www.epa.gov/asbestos. Some mechanical damage was noted, and repairs should be made by a qualified party.
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Much of the siding on the south side of the home has paint blisters that should be removed and repainted by a qualified painting contractor. This can have several causes but is most likely related to poor prep before painting or wrong types of paint. All siding components should be carefully evaluated as to the need for repairs and repaired as necessary by a qualified party. Proper caulking of siding and trim details should be fully evaluated and caulked/sealed/flashed as deemed necessary. I recommend professional evaluation/repairs of the home by a qualified painting contractor.
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Trim & Eaves
General Information: Closed soffits with no ventilation noted
Wood Trim: Trim behind/in-contact-with/too close to concrete structures at (Garage door jambs/trim), Basement door jambs/trim
Surface Finishes: Painted, Conditions of surface (Weathering-Deterioration present, Much painted-over Weathering-Deterioration present, Some paint failure), decay rot in some window sills
There should be adequate clearances between trim components and concrete structures. Currently there are inadequate clearances at the front garage door trim--both sides and basement entryway door. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a qualified party.
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade
Soffits
Soffits: The coverings on the underside of overhanging structures, Roof overhangs, Cantilevered floor structures, Entryway ceilings
Wood Soffits: Painted, Conditions of surface (Some painted-over Weathering-Deterioration present, Some gaps not caulked)
Some areas of the soffits has weathering/deterioration consistent with the age of the home and generally considered cosmetic. At the window trim around the kitchen window there is wood decay/rot in the window sill that should be replaced and other similar locations should be anticipated. I recommend evaluation of all of these trim components by a qualified party and that repairs be made as deemed necessary.
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Flashings
Flashing locations: Horizontal trim flashings (Window head-flashing, missing at some locations, Door head-flashing, missing at some locations, Garage Overhead Door head-flashing, Garage Overhead Door head-flashing missing)
There are areas that are not properly counter-flashed. All materials, in order to properly shed water, are required to counter-flash materials below them. Missing flashings can lead to water penetration behind the siding and can lead to water penetration of the house sheathing at these locations. Repairs would likely prove difficult but repairs may become necessary in time--this is especially true in areas that are not well protected by overhangs on the south sides of the home. Hidden damage is common, with at least the trim boards. I recommend monitoring and repairs later when it becomes necessary or that proper flashings be installed now by a qualified siding contractor to avoid perhaps more costly repairs later. In the context of repainting the home you might want to consider having proper flashings installed. If flashings are not installed it will be necessary to be vigilant about keeping the connections well caulked and sealed to prevent water intrusion. The big drawback to caulking these connections as opposed to proper flashings is that water that finds its way behind the siding will not have a good pathway out from behind the siding and can cause hidden damage behind the siding. These flashings are obviously less critical in areas well protected by overhangs, but that does not eliminate the "requirement" for them by current building standards.
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Exteriors
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Exteriors: Present
The following limitations and exclusions were noted related to the exterior of the home;
- Inclement weather
- Out-Buildings/Structures, are not included in this inspection.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
🐞Wood Destroying Organisms and Conducive Conditions Related to the Exteriors
Wood Decay/Rot: Evidence noted, at kitchen window trim
Wood Decay Fungi (wood rot), are filamentous organisms which begin as microscopic spores that land on the surface of wood, and germinate to produce thin strand like cells called hyphae. Hyphae grow through the wood and secrete enzymes which degrade and weaken the wood. Decay requires: (1)adequate moisture, (2)ambient temperature (32º to 110º), (3) oxygen, (4) a food source. Wood moisture levels above 20-30% are considered conducive to wood fungal rot. Damaged wood typically will need to be replaced. Ultimately the source of moisture must be eliminated even if all of the fungal organism cannot be eliminated. This list of wood decay/rot is not specific and is only designed to comply with reporting requirements of the WSDA . More details are provided at specific locations within the report. Wood decay/rot was noted in the following locations:
- Window trim
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Conditions Conducive to WDO's related to exterior siding: Evidence noted
This list of conducive conditions related to the cladding of the home is not specific and is only designed to comply with reporting requirements of the WSDA . More details are provided at specific locations within the report. Conducive conditions were noted at the following locations:
- Some siding:
- too close to deck surfaces,
- too close to roof surfaces,
- Failing of painted surfaces,
- Cracks
- Gaps not caulked,
- Pipe penetrations not caulked/sealed,
- Missing flashings,
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
West Entryway Stoop
Structure
General Information: Front entryway (proper landing present)
Numerous issues with the structure 🛑: 🔨 General observations
Structure: Not Visible
Foundation: Poured Concrete
Some vertical cracks in foundation walls are common, and generally indicate typical foundation settlement. Cracks in excess of 1/4 inch, or signs of active foundation movement should be further evaluated by a structural engineer.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
Foundation Pony Walls: Framing (Conventional framing, Not visible due to finish surfaces)
Ledgers: No ledgers present as can be seen through the vent on the north end
Joists: Joists (Treated wood), as can be seen through the vent on the north end
Metal hangers and brackets: Joist Hangers present
Metal hangers and brackets are essential structural components of proper deck construction. They require the proper fasteners appropriate for each bracket, all nail or bolt holes present are supposed to be filled. Fasteners that do not react with the bracket leading to corrosion are required. (Some "whitening" of galvanized fasteners and brackets is normal and part of the protective process of galvanized steel). Some types of hangers/brackets are adversely affected by the type of preservative treatment in the wood deck. It is not possible, beyond visible corrosion, to determine this. Rusting brackets should be replaced as necessary. The only type of screw/bolt attachments allowed have a "≠" symbol on the head. All other types of screw type fasteners should be considered suspect. Having the deck inspected annually by a qualified party is advised.
- 🛑 Safety 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
The entire entryway structure has numerous issues and no attempt to document all these issues will be made in this report. The following pictures with descriptions are meant to convey the necessity for a full evaluation/repair or possibly even replacement of the structure by a qualified deck installation/repair contractor as deemed necessary. There are issues with access underneath, decay/rot in risers and other trim details on the stairs, baluster spacings, handrails, and guards on the stairs. These pictures should not be construed to be a complete accounting of the issues. No access was possible to the space under the front entryway stoop. While some structures were visible through the vent opening on the north side, a full evaluation of this space was not possible. I recommend a proper access (would be required by current standards) be made by a qualified party and that the space be fully evaluated at that time.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Surface
Surface Conditions: Proper landing is present
Synthetic Wood/Plastic: General information about synthetic wood deck materials
There are literally hundreds of manufacturers of composite type decking materials and it is typically not possible to determine the manufacturer of these materials in the context of a home inspection. Some manufacturer's materials have undergone 3rd party testing and have appropriate certifications while others have no certification or do not have current certifications. Again this is also not possible to determine the context of a home inspection. Every manufacturer will have different installation requirements for their materials. As an example, many of these materials are not approved for use on stairs or require special engineering for use on stairs. Many of these materials have also suffered premature failure with resultant recalls in some cases. Obvious visual defects will be reported but it is recommended that it be verified by a qualified party that these materials are properly installed per manufacturer's recommendations.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Barrier/Guards/Top Cap
Guard Conditions: See structure above, Barrier not adequate, Barrier not adequate in non-required areas (spaces wider than 4", too low), painted wood
Openings in Wood Barrier (Guard): Greater than 4" baluster spacings, Painted Wood
Space Under Structure
Conditions: Enclosed, No Access (I recommend access be provided)
Stairs
Supports/foundation: Not Visible
Run of Stairs: Painted wood (Some paint failure noted), Stringers (Decay/rot present)
Stair Treads: Synthetic Wood/Plastic
Stair Risers: Closed risers, Painted Wood (Some rot/decay present, Some mechanical damage)
Handrails: Returns on ends missing
Stair Guard Conditions: Barrier not adequate (too low)
Materials/Conditions: Wood, Painted wood
Space under stairs: Enclosed
Roof Structure
Type of roof structure: Included in Roof Section (part of House roof)
Roof Support Structures: Wrapped posts--methods of attachment not visible, Painted Wood
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Entryway/Stoops
Limitations & Exclusions: Related to Entryway Stoops
The following limitations and exclusions related to the deck was noted:
- No access below
- Storage/furniture on surface
- 🔍 Due Diligence
🐞Wood Destroying Organisms and Conducive Conditions Related to Decks
Wood Decay/Rot: Evidence noted related to deck
Wood Decay Fungi (wood rot), are filamentous organisms which begin as microscopic spores that land on the surface of wood, and germinate to produce thin strand like cells called hyphae. Hyphae grow through the wood and secrete enzymes which degrade and weaken the wood. Decay requires: (1)adequate moisture, (2)ambient temperature (32º to 110º), (3) oxygen, (4) a food source. Wood moisture levels above 20-30% are considered conducive to wood fungal rot. Damaged wood typically will need to be replaced. Ultimately the source of moisture must be eliminated even if all of the fungal organism cannot be eliminated. This list of wood decay/rot is not specific and is only designed to comply with reporting requirements of the WSDA . More details are provided at specific locations within the report. Wood decay/rot was noted in the following locations:
- Stairs
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Conditions Conducive to WDO's related to Decks/Porches/Stoops/Balconies: Evidence noted
This list of conducive conditions related to the decks of the home is not specific and is only designed to comply with reporting requirements of the WSDA . More details are provided at specific locations within the report. Conducive conditions were noted as relates to Deck:
- Deck covers untreated wood stem wall structures
- Evaluation of hidden structures not possible due to interior finish coverings
- Deck covers untreated wood floor structures typical of time of construction
- Evaluation of hidden structures not possible due to lack of access
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
South Deck
Structure
General Information: General Construction Information
For information about proper deck construction, that meets current requirements, see the following link: DCA-6 Deck Construction Guide
If this deck is in Seismic zones D0, D1, D2 & D3 (most of Puget Sound) there are other requirements for construction that are better covered in this link: Deck Tip Sheet
A stoop/deck/porch that is higher than 30 inches above the ground (within 36 inches of the stoop/deck/porch ) should have a railing that is at least 36 inches in height, and baluster spaces should be no greater than 4 inches in width.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Numerous issues with the structure 🛑: 🔨 General observations
Post and Pier: Supported on house/building, Supports (Poured concrete)
Posts: 4x4 posts (Less than 8 feet tall 4x4's), Untreated Wood, in contact with the ground
Support Beams: 🔨 Untreated Wood
Ledgers: Untreated Wood, Ledger bolting (Ledger not bolted), Lateral Bracing Anchors (No lateral bracing anchors present), Ledger flashing (Ledger flashing is evident)
While this report will identify the means of attachment, or lack thereof, of the deck/porch to the home, it must be stressed that a purely visual examination cannot typically determine the adequacy of any such connections and/or supports.
- 🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Joists: Joists (Joist size, Wood Joists: 2x6, 16"oc, Untreated Wood)
Metal hangers and brackets: Joist Hangers present (Not all nail holes in hangers have fasteners, Some rusted hangers)
Metal hangers and brackets are essential structural components of proper deck construction. They require the proper fasteners appropriate for each bracket, all nail or bolt holes present are supposed to be filled. Fasteners that do not react with the bracket leading to corrosion are required. (Some "whitening" of galvanized fasteners and brackets is normal and part of the protective process of galvanized steel). Some types of hangers/brackets are adversely affected by the type of preservative treatment in the wood deck. It is not possible, beyond visible corrosion, to determine this. Rusting brackets should be replaced as necessary. The only type of screw/bolt attachments allowed have a "≠" symbol on the head. All other types of screw type fasteners should be considered suspect. Having the deck inspected annually by a qualified party is advised.
- 🛑 Safety 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
Bracing: Some bracing missing
The entire deck structure has numerous issues and no attempt to document all these issues will be made in this report. The following pictures with descriptions are meant to convey the necessity for a full evaluation/repair or possibly even replacement of the structure by a qualified deck installation/repair contractor as deemed necessary. There are issues with
- Ledger not bolted or not adequately bolted
- Structure not made of pressure treated wood. In geographical areas where experience has demonstrated a specific need, approved naturally durable or pressure-preservative treated wood shall be used for those portions of wood members that form the structural supports of buildings, balconies, porches or similar permanent building appurtenances when those members are exposed to the weather without adequate protection from a roof, eave, overhang or other covering that would prevent moisture or water accumulation on the surface or at joints between members.
- Guard not adequate
- Guard spacings inadequate
- Stair structures not adequate
- Stair guard not adequate
- Joists undersized
- Missing solid blocking above beams
- Improper fasteners
- Missing inappropriate diagonal bracing
- No lateral bracing anchors. These are brackets with threaded metal rods that connect the joists of the deck to the joists of the house. General standards for modern deck construction are to have not less than two lateral load anchors.
- No clearance between siding and deck surface
- Missing handrails
These pictures should not be construed to be a complete accounting of the issues. Deck structure replacements typically require permits and sometimes engineering. Discuss with the deck contractor cost related to these repairs/replacement to your satisfaction and care should be exercised using the deck until proper repairs/replacement is completed as the guard along the south side is not safe.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Surface
Surface Conditions: Proper landing is present
Stained/Treated: Treated Wood, Surface conditions (Loose boards)
Barrier/Guards/Top Cap
Guard Conditions: numerous issues related to guards, Barrier not adequate for lateral loads, Barrier Support posts (No support posts present)
Untreated Wood: Loose/inadequate attachment
Openings in Wood Barrier (Guard): Greater than 4" baluster spacings, Untreated Wood
Space Under Structure
Conditions: Open/no enclosure
Stairs
Supports/foundation: Support Structures (Supported by concrete walkway)
Run of Stairs: Stringers (Sitting on ground, Decay/rot present), Non-treated wood
Stair Treads: More than 10", Treated wood
Stair Risers: Open Risers (More than 4" max opening)
Handrails: Missing
Stair Guard Conditions: Present where required, Barrier not adequate for lateral loads, Barrier support posts poorly attached
Materials/Conditions: Wood, Conditions (Loose components, Some weathering/deterioration noted)
Openings in Wood Barrier (Stair Guard): Spaces more than 4-3/8", Untreated Wood
Space under stairs: Open/no enclosure
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Deck
Limitations & Exclusions: Related to Decks
The following limitations and exclusions related to the deck was noted:
- Some vegetative debris
- Storage underneath
- Storage on surface
- 🔍 Due Diligence
🐞Wood Destroying Organisms and Conducive Conditions Related to Decks
Wood Decay/Rot: Evidence noted related to deck
Wood Decay Fungi (wood rot), are filamentous organisms which begin as microscopic spores that land on the surface of wood, and germinate to produce thin strand like cells called hyphae. Hyphae grow through the wood and secrete enzymes which degrade and weaken the wood. Decay requires: (1)adequate moisture, (2)ambient temperature (32º to 110º), (3) oxygen, (4) a food source. Wood moisture levels above 20-30% are considered conducive to wood fungal rot. Damaged wood typically will need to be replaced. Ultimately the source of moisture must be eliminated even if all of the fungal organism cannot be eliminated. This list of wood decay/rot is not specific and is only designed to comply with reporting requirements of the WSDA . More details are provided at specific locations within the report. Wood decay/rot was noted in the following locations:
- Joists
- Stairs
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Conditions Conducive to WDO's related to Decks/Porches/Stoops/Balconies: Evidence noted
This list of conducive conditions related to the decks of the home is not specific and is only designed to comply with reporting requirements of the WSDA . More details are provided at specific locations within the report. Conducive conditions were noted as relates to Deck:
- Deck covers untreated wood stem wall structures
- Deck covers untreated wood floor structures typical of time of construction
- Evidence of past moisture penetration at interior was noted
- Exterior structures not pressure treated
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
🚙GARAGE
Types of Parking Structures on Property
Type of Parking Structure: Attached Garage (1 car bay)
Garage Foundation: included in house foundation
Garage Exterior Siding & Trim: Included in house siding and trim
Garage Windows: Included in house windows
Garage Electrical: Included in House Electrical
Garage Plumbing: Included in house plumbing
Garage Floor
Garage Floor: Concrete
Cracks: Settlement/Upheaval, Other cracks possible in areas covered by storage, Cracks with gaps over 1/4" wide
Slope of floor: much sloping of the floor
Indications of moisture: None seen
Indications of PAST moisture in garage: Water stains on walls/ceilings, Stains tested "negative" for moisture at the time of inspection
Efflorescence: None to Minimal (Typical of age/type of construction)
Garage Interiors
Walls/Ceilings: Fully finished, Fire-resistant surfaces missing (Ceilings), Small breaches of fire-resistant surfaces
Overhead Door
Overhead Door: Not Inspected
Door Materials/Condition: Metal, 🔨 Door in very poor condition
Door Jambs/Trim: See Exterior Trim section of the report
Hardware & Warning Labels: Not inspected
Side Extension Springs: These older style hinge type door openers are considered at the end of their life
No Automatic Opener: No Automatic Opener
The garage overhead door is in poor condition with the following concerns:
- Wear & Tear consistent with age of door,
- Mechanical damage to door/panels noted,
- No automatic opener
- Side springs
This list should not be considered a complete list of issues but instead more representative of concerns that is designed to promote full evaluation by qualified parties. I recommend replacement by a qualified overhead door installation/repair contractor.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
While operational these older style hinged door opener mechanism are typically at the end of their expected life and upgrading the door to newer style roll-up type doors is recommended for improved safety. Consult with a qualified garage door installation company as to options.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Garage/House Door
Garage/House Door: Requirements for fire separation, The garage/house door does not meet current standards
The garage/house door has fire-separation requirements it must meet. The door should be a solid wood door not less than 1-3/8 inches thick, a solid or honeycomb-core steel door not less than 1-3/8 inches thick, or 20-minute fire-rated door. All doors between the house and the garage are required to have a self-closure device. It should also be weather-stripped at threshold, sides and top. Improper doors can allow fumes from the garage to enter the home.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Auto-Closure Device: No Auto-close device
Conditions: Conditions consistent with age and use, Door in extremely poor condition, Threshold (Poor condition)
Weather-Stripping: none present
Lockset & Security Mechanisms: Functioned under test
The garage/house door does not meet current standards as to separation between the house and the garage. I recommend installation of a proper door by a qualified door installation company. The door should be a solid wood door not less than 1-3/8 inches thick, a solid or honeycomb-core steel door not less than 1-3/8 inches thick, or 20-minute fire-rated door. All doors between the house and the garage are required to have a self-closure device. It should also be weather-stripped at threshold, sides and top. Improper doors can allow fumes from the garage to enter the home.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Inspection Limitations / Exclusions Related to the Garage
Garage Limitations and Exclusions: Present
The following limitations and exclusions related to the garage were noted:
- Some components not included in this inspection
- Storage in Garage
- Built-in structures inside garage
- 🔍 Due Diligence
BASEMENT Foundation
Foundation/Footings/Framing
Basement Foundation Footings: Not visible
Basement Foundation: Poured Concrete Foundation/Stem Wall, Foundation has failed and/or is failing, Patching/repairs (Some evident)
Basement Efflorescence: Some Present, Too much of basement is finished to determine how much efflorescence there is, Typical of age/type of construction
Water that moves through masonry in a liquid state can result in the formation of efflorescence, which can disfigure the face of masonry/concrete structures. Migrating water dissolves salts from inside the concrete/brick and then deposits them on the surface as the water evaporates. Usually it is not destructive, only disfiguring. Sealing the surface of a wall in this situation can lead to spalling (exfoliation) of the surface and is therefore not recommended.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Honeycombing: Some present, Some present--NOT likely a concern structurally
Honeycombing is large voids or bubbles in poured concrete. It shows up as voids in the face of the concrete. Large pieces of aggregate are surrounded by air. This condition is caused by insufficient compaction of the concrete and represents a "weakness" in the wall both in terms of water penetration and possibly structurally.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Cracks: Cracking typical of age and type of construction, Too little of foundation is visible at the exterior to determine how much cracking there is, Types of cracks (Cracks that warrant monitoring and/or evaluation by a licensed structural engineer)
Cracks in the foundations of homes this age are common. I recommend that any cracks discovered by homeowner/handyperson be patched with expansive concrete. This will help keep out moisture and small insects and make monitoring for further movement easier. Significant cracking after repairs are made would indicate the need for further evaluation by a licensed structural engineer.
Foundation Sill Plate: Majority of foundation sill plate NOT visible
Foundation Anchors: Bolts (Foundation sill plate bolting not visible/not determined due to finish surfaces)
While this report will either document bolting or not, determining whether a foundation is adequately bolted is not possible. Over the years there have been many changes in the requirements of bolting and whether this building meets all the requirements of the time of construction likewise cannot be determined. Obvious deficiencies will be noted below with any recommendations in the narratives of the observations below.
- 🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Foundation Pony Walls: Framing (Conventional framing, 2x4, 16"oc), Sheathing on Exterior (Solid Boards)
Seismic Upgrade: NO evidence of seismic retrofit
Seismic upgrade may be suggested, but is not a mandatory requirement. (With the exception of seismic strapping of newer water heaters, there is no state law requiring a seller to bring an older home into compliance with current earthquake resistance requirements). However, seismic improvements are prudent, and if done properly, can significantly limit structural damage in the event of a severe earthquake.
Effective seismic upgrading consists of:
- Installing additional anchor bolts to adequately attach wood sills to the concrete foundation. This is only necessary when the existing bolts do not meet current building standards.
- Adding plywood sheets known as shear panels, nailed to the "cripple walls" to prevent collapse of those walls when lateral seismic forces are exerted against the building. Cripple walls are the short framed walls that extend from the top of the foundation to the base of the floor structure.
- Installing hold-down brackets to secure "cripple walls" to the anchor bolts. This ensures that the wall studs will not separate from the wood sills during a quake.
- Reinforcing post and beam connections with plywood gussets or T-straps to ensure against separation or displacement.
- In many homes, the floor joists are installed directly on the sill plates, rather than on "cripple walls." In such cases, the second and third recommendations above do not apply. Instead, add tie-down brackets to ensure secure attachment of the floor structure to the wood sills.
- 🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Basement Building Floor System Framing: Primary floor system over basement (Dimensional wood)
Basement Fire-blocking/Draft-stopping: General Information on Fire-blocking, Where Missing (Chases between floors (basement to second floor) not properly fire-blocked--typical of age and type of construction, Fire-blocking around tubs not in place--typical of age and type of construction)
Finish surfaces and/or insulation can conceal missing fire-blocking. When the basement space is fully finished off and/or insulated, evaluation of fire-blocking deficiencies is not usually possible
.
Requirements for fire-blocking and draft-stopping in homes has changed over the years and varied from jurisdiction to jurisdiction. In general more modern requirements call for "blocking" the spread of fire from lower level spaces to upper level spaces. Some structures also have requirements for installation of protection against the flow of fire horizontally. To achieve this there are specific requirements as to sealing/blocking of spaces around pipes, ducts, chimneys, wiring, framing, laundry chutes, chases etc.
It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if all fire-blocking and/or draft-stopping is in place, but where it is "obviously" missing I attempt to identify the condition/location and recommend appropriate repairs for improved fire safety.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Beams & Posts: Dimensional wood beams
Top Attachment: Present at some locations--not determined in others
Bottom Attachment: Attachment not present or consistent with time of construction
Sub-floor: 3/4" solid wood boards
Wood Joists: Wood Joists: 2x10, 16"oc, Spacing of joists is a visual approximation and can vary 2-4 inches in older homes., Joist hangers not present--typical of time of construction
Per modern standards there are joist hangers missing at locations like chimney penetrations, stairway openings etc. This was common in older construction and most installations are considered satisfactory. Sometimes brackets can be added as an upgrade. Sometimes it is appropriate to make improvements in the context of other repairs/remodeling done at the home. No further recommendation at this time.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Normally I recommend that a licensed foundation contractor, who utilizes the services of a licensed engineer to design repairs, be consulted to determine the necessity for repairs, design repairs deemed necessary, estimate costs and perform the repairs. Since you already have some of this engineering done, I defer to their recommendations. I am not sure when patching of the many cracks in the foundation was done, I saw no evidence of cracking since that patching was done and depending on how long ago that was, may be an indication that settlement is no longer occurring. Keeping water away from the foundation is essential to reduce settlement. Pictures below will document many of these settlement issues, but should not be construed to be all inclusive, but more representative, and it should be anticipated other concerns exist behind stored belongings and structures in the basement. Issues throughout the home related to this settlement will be discussed here to avoid duplication even though some notes will be made in the affected areas of the report to follow.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
There are areas of efflorescence present on the inside of the basement space along the west side. This efflorescence is an indication that moisture is finding (or has found) its way through the foundation. As the moisture evaporates it leaves this crystalline deposit called efflorescence. Extending the downspouts away from the foundation at least 5 feet can greatly mitigate this moisture condition. For a better solution consider installing a new tight-line drain around the home to collect all of the downspouts and carry the water away from the home. The only truly effective means of eliminating this problem moisture is to dig around the outside and properly seal the foundation from the outside and install new footing drains and tight-line drains. Storage in the basement limited assessment of the extent of efflorescence (as well as other conditions) on basement walls and floors.
🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade
It is common to have missing fire-blocking around water heater vents. This should have proper metal fire-blocking installed to prevent the entry of fire into the chase which could then find its way into the attic where the pipe is likewise not sealed. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed HVAC contractor.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Basement/Ground Floor, Wall, Ceiling finishes
Floor/Wall/Ceiling Finishes: Finished surfaces restrict structural evaluations, Floors (Floors not finished), walls partially finished, ceilings partially finished
In addition to the obvious fact that finished surfaces may restrict structural evaluations, it should be noted that no evaluations are made regarding local permits or approvals for such work or use. Compliance regarding egress, escape & rescue, plumbing, heating or electric requirements should be determined by contacting local building officials.
- 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Basement Space
Basement/Ground Floor: Basement floor slopes, Significant settlement noted---further evaluation by a licensed structural engineer is recommended, Concrete (Efflorescence Present), Cracks present (Severe Cracks that warrant evaluation by a licensed structural engineer, Cracks/Settlement related to concrete floor being installed flush with top of foundation)
Floors that have been recently painted can conceal areas that would otherwise show efflorescence. Over time this efflorescence may show through the paint and would be indicative of moisture moving through the floor and into the space.
Past/Ongoing Moisture in Basement/Ground Floor Space: Stains that tested "negative" for moisture at the time of inspection
There is evidence of past water intrusion of the basement at the SW window as indicated by staining and mold or what looks like mold. This may be from past or ongoing intrusion conditions that have since been remedied or from ongoing conditions that are seasonal or related to other causes. I recommend proper repairs by a qualified party. No elevated moisture readings were detected by moisture meter at the time of inspection. There has also been water intrusion at the basement entryway door as indicated by staining and swelling of the trim. While cosmetic, it is a concern as it is likely to get worse unless protection of the door at the exterior is provided. Perhaps a roof overhang etc.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
There is considerable cracking and settlement of the basement floor likely related to settlement of the foundation and poor original installation. Repairs to all this damage would not likely be practical and would likely require replacement in whole or part. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a qualified party perhaps in conjunction with any repairs to correct the settlement along the west side previously discussed. Some of the cracks are pictured below and others are likely under stored items.
- ➕ Upgrade
Insulation in Basement/Ground Floor Space
Ceiling and Rim Joists: Ceiling Cavity (None in ceiling)
Wall Cavity: Basement walls not insulated
The basement exterior walls are not insulated. To improve energy efficiency I recommend the walls be properly insulated by a qualified insulation contractor experienced in insulating basements and is knowledgeable in the concerns with covering walls below grade. Moisture issues related to improperly insulated basemen walls are very common and results in hidden damage over time. Careful evaluation of current conditions to mitigate any existing moisture conditions and to prevent future moisture issues is necessary. Basement walls with obvious efflorescence should not be covered until the causes of this efflorescence have been addressed.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Basement Foundation
Basement Limitations/Exclusions: Present
The following limitations and exclusions related to the basement were noted:
- Built-in wood structures
- Heating equipment
- Ductwork
- Water heater
- Appliances
- Considerable storage in basement space limited inspection
- Poor/Difficult access to some areas
- Limited access to space under stairs
- Some Basement Ceilings Finished/Covered / Not visible
- Some Foundation Walls Covered/Not Visible
- Very little of Foundation Walls visible at exterior
- 🔍 Due Diligence
🐞Wood Destroying Organisms and Conducive Conditions Related to the Basement Space
Conditions Conducive to WDO's around the Basement Space: Evidence noted
This list of conducive conditions related to the basement of the home is not specific and is only designed to comply with reporting requirements of the WSDA . More details are provided at specific locations within the report. Conducive conditions were noted as relates to:
- no interior floor drains,
- efflorescence
- finish wall coverings installed directly on concrete foundation surfaces
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
🧀Mold or What Appears to Be Mold Related to the Basement
Mold and/or stains on surfaces: Small amounts--moisture levels "currently" below what is considered conducive for continued growth, Where seen, around the window at the SW corner
ROOF/Attic
Roof General Information
Roof Configuration: Gable, Very steep roof
This is a steep roof and maintenance should be performed by qualified roof maintenance professionals taking proper safety precautions.
Gable Area Slopes: 10/12±, Steeper than 12/12
Method of Roof Inspection: Roof NOT walked on, Not traversed--too steep, Inspection method (Ladder at Eaves, Camera "zoom" from ground)
Layers of Roofing: 1 layer
Extra Roof Materials were noted in: under south deck
Do to the steepness and inability to get to the ridge of the roof, the roof was not walked and the ridge was not traversed. There may be conditions with the chimneys and the roof and other roof components that were not found at the time of inspection and if you would like a more thorough evaluation I can come back with climbing gear and/or taller ladder for a better evaluation.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Dimensional Composition Shingles
Dimensional Composition Shingles: Dimensional "Architectural" Grade Composition Shingle
"Guestimate" of age: 15 - 20 years old
Dimensional Composition Conditions: Mechanical damage (Very steep roofs often suffer Some mechanical damage)
Method of Shingle Attachment/Sealing: 3/8" head nails present--means of shingle attachment, Nail points visible in attic
Moss/Lichen: Black streaking (Lichen growth) present
Past Leaks at: Pipe penetrations, Visible in attic at
Flashings Related to Roof
Eave Flashings: Not present, Eave flashings NOT present/roofing materials overhanging gutters--consistent with age of roof
Rake Flashings: Present
Roof-to-wall flashings were noted where required. These flashings are necessary to keep water from running under the shingles. This can cause wood decay/rot to the sheathing as well as the fascia.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Roof to Wall Flashings: Present
Roof-to-wall flashings were noted where required. These flashings are necessary to keep water from running under the shingles. This can cause wood decay/rot to the sheathing as well as the fascia.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Step Flashings: Present at Chimneys, Present at Roof to Side-walls
Chimney step flashings were noted where required. These flashings are necessary to keep water from getting into the roof/chimney structures. This can cause wood decay/rot when they are not present or not adequate.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Roof to side-wall step flashings were noted where required. These flashings are necessary to keep water from getting into the roof/building structures. This can cause wood decay/rot when they are not present or not adequate.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Asphalt shingle valleys: Lapped Style Valleys (one plane runs under the adjoining plane which overlaps and is cut parallel to the valley--at the valley)
Fall Protection Devices: Fall protection brackets noted
Fall protection brackets installed on the roof are how workers on the roof protect themselves from falls. These anchors are for the ropes used by the workers that are attached to the harnesses they wear.
- 🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Modern roof installations (installed after July 1st 2014) are required to have metal flashings installed along the eaves of the roof. They are not present on this roof consistent with installation prior to that date. Damage to the edge of the sheathing is common and some amount of repairs should be anticipated when the roof is replaced. It likely would not be considered practical to install these flashings prior to roof replacement.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
The vent cap for the kitchen exhaust fan is not properly flashed with shingles. In the manner installed, wind driven rain can get under the top shingle and then flow under the shingles below instead of on top of them like it would for the flashing of the b-vent. Sometimes sealants are used successfully to seal this vulnerable area but that could not be determined visually. Also the b-vent storm collar is not in the proper position and should be lowered and properly sealed. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a qualified roofing contractor or other qualified party.
- 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Main Attic Above Second Floor
Attic Location, Access and Limitations: Small SE room off stairwell/hallway, Inspection Method (Viewed from Opening due to small size)
Access Door/Cover: Conditions (Opening smaller than 22"x30"--consistent with time of construction)
Access Door/cover Insulation & Weather-stripping: Insulation/Weather-Stripping missing
Roof Construction: Conventional, "stick-built"
Joists: Joist size (Wood Joists: 2x4, 16"oc)
Rafters: Rafter size (Wood Rafters: 2x4, 24"oc, Spacing of rafters/joists is a visual approximation and can vary 2-4 inches in older homes.)
Vaulted Ceilings above knee-walls: Rafters not visible
Determination of how or if vaulted ceilings are vented can be beyond the scope of the Standard Home Inspection. Determination of venting can be indicated by the presence of roof, ridge and soffit vents, but no determination can be made as to the effectiveness of such systems. Hidden damage in vaulted ceilings due to leaks and condensation from poor venting that regular monitoring of spaces below these roof systems is warranted. All signs of staining should be checked for active moisture by moisture meter.
👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
Roof Sheathing: Plywood, 3/4" Spaced Boards, "skip-sheathing" (Indicative of the house originally having wood shingle/shake roof)
Attic/Roof Ventilation: present
Soffit Vents: Non vented soffits
Roof vents: Roof vents are present
Gable Vents: Gable vents are present
Attic/Roof Insulation: General Information, None present--consistent with time of construction, None present
All other things being equal, approximately half of the heat loss from a home is through the ceiling. It is typically easier and more effective to insulate the flat ceiling above living space rather than between the roof rafters. Adding insulation above the ceilings in poorly insulated older homes is generally a wise investment.
- An energy assessment or audit is outside the scope of the standard home inspection. Any comments on amounts and/or materials are for general informational purposes only and were not verified. Pre-1970s homes are more likely to have been constructed with insulation levels significantly below present day standards.
- Estimates of depth of insulation is not meant to imply that the attic is sufficiently insulated or that the estimated depth is consistent throughout the attic. Use these depth "guesstimates" as a guide in determining the necessity for upgrading/adding additional insulation or in determining if the amount is "close" to recommended current standards. Adequacy of insulation can best be determined by a professional Energy Audit.
🌲 Efficiency / IAQ
Transition Walls: Transition walls of knee wall---short wall areas (Insulation missing)
Moisture in Attic/Roof Space: None Seen
Fire-Blocking/Draft-Stopping: General Information on Fire-blocking, Where Missing (Wiring holes from lower spaces to upper spaces (through sill plates etc) not caulked/sealed, Plumbing Pipes from lower spaces to upper spaces (through sill plates etc) not caulked/sealed, Chases between floors (crawl space to attic) not properly fire-blocked), This information will not be repeated for other attic locations
Finish surfaces and/or insulation can conceal missing fire-blocking. When the basement space is fully finished off and/or insulated, evaluation of fire-blocking deficiencies is not usually possible.
- Requirements for fire-blocking and draft-stopping in homes has changed over the years and varied from jurisdiction to jurisdiction. In general more modern requirements call for "blocking" the spread of fire from lower level spaces to upper level spaces. Some structures also have requirements for installation of protection against the flow of fire horizontally. To achieve this there are specific requirements as to sealing/blocking of spaces around pipes, ducts, chimneys, wiring, framing, laundry chutes, chases etc.
- It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if all fire-blocking and/or draft-stopping is in place, but where it is "obviously" missing I attempt to identify the condition/location and recommend appropriate repairs for improved fire safety.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Roof Structures with no access: NW corner of upper North room
The insulation and weather-stripping on the attic access hatches is not present consistent with the age of the home and that no energy saving improvements have been made to the home. I recommend repairs by a qualified party in the context of energy saving improvements done to the home. Missing weather-stripping allows warm moist air into the attic and missing insulation contributes to higher energy costs both in heating and cooling. These recommendations apply to all attic spaces and will not be repeated below.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
There is currently no insulation in the attic spaces or walls of the home. I recommend that for energy conservation (both heating and cooling) that a qualified insulation contractor insulate the attic to current standards. I also recommend that all changes in the electrical system that involve the attic space and walls be performed prior to upgrading the insulation; and, that all spaces that can allow the transfer of heat/moisture from the home and/or wall cavities be properly air-sealed by qualified parties. All areas that need fire-blocking should also be improved. These recommendations apply to all attic spaces and will not be repeated below.
- 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
SW Knee-wall Attic
Attic Location, Access and Limitations: Inspection Method (Traversed to all ends)
Access Door/Cover: Same as house interior doors
Access Door/cover Insulation & Weather-stripping: Insulation/Weather-Stripping missing
Roof Construction: Same as upper attic
Joists: Joist size (Wood Joists: 2x6, 16"oc)
Attic/Roof Ventilation: not vented per current standards and will need additional ventilation when the home is insulated
Attic/Roof Insulation: General Information, None present
All other things being equal, approximately half of the heat loss from a home is through the ceiling. It is typically easier and more effective to insulate the flat ceiling above living space rather than between the roof rafters. Adding insulation above the ceilings in poorly insulated older homes is generally a wise investment.
- An energy assessment or audit is outside the scope of the standard home inspection. Any comments on amounts and/or materials are for general informational purposes only and were not verified. Pre-1970s homes are more likely to have been constructed with insulation levels significantly below present day standards.
- Estimates of depth of insulation is not meant to imply that the attic is sufficiently insulated or that the estimated depth is consistent throughout the attic. Use these depth "guesstimates" as a guide in determining the necessity for upgrading/adding additional insulation or in determining if the amount is "close" to recommended current standards. Adequacy of insulation can best be determined by a professional Energy Audit.
- 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ
Fire-Blocking/Draft-Stopping: General Information on Fire-blocking, Where Missing (Fire-blocking around Metal chimney NOT in place)
East Knee-wall Attic
Attic Location, Access and Limitations: Short door in back of adjacent room closet
Access Door/cover Insulation & Weather-stripping: Insulation/Weather-Stripping missing
Roof Construction: Same as upper attic
Joists: Joist size (Wood Joists: 2x6, 16"oc)
Attic/Roof Insulation: None present
North Chimney
Masonry Chimney: General Chimney Information
A chimney with insufficient height and/or clearance may not function/draft properly. Extending the flue/vent height or installing a power draft inducer may help improve draft deficiencies, however actual remedial needs must be determined by a specialist.
The chimney footing/foundation is usually not readily visible; however, footing or foundation inadequacies are factors to consider if there is any evidence of chimney movement. Conditions should be assessed by a qualified specialist to determine any remedial needs.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Location & Condition 🛑: Tall Chimney
Mortar Joints / Parging / Bricks / Efflorescence: recent repointing noted
Chimney/Roof Flashings: Present, Counter flashing may or may not be adequate
Masonry Cap (Crown): Present, Condition not determined due to no access due to height
#1 Flue: Condition not determined, Clay liner visible at top of chimney
Hat: Present
The chimney/roof Counter flashing may or may not be adequate. Some tar was noted on connections, but appeared to be keeping water out of the roof structure. I recommend routine maintenance and inspection every year by a qualified party. At some point the rusting flashings will need to be replaced---perhaps with the next roof replacement.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Removed Chimney
Masonry Chimney: Base only remains in basement near water heater, remove as desired
Roof Drainage
General Information about Roof Drainage: General Information, Visible gutters are clean , not all gutters visible
Even-if/Unless it was raining at the time of inspection, it is not always possible to determine if gutters leak/overflow. Monitoring the gutters for leaks when it is raining is recommended. Leaking/overflowing gutters should be repaired to prevent damage to roof/fascia structures.
Properly functioning gutters, downspouts, and splash blocks or drain piping are critical to protect the foundation from moisture intrusion. Gutters should be cleaned as needed and leaky joints sealed.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Aluminum Gutters: Continuous (seamless), Downspouts (Aluminum Downspouts)
Downspout/Roof Drain Termination: Underground pipes and no determination as to whether these are pipes or just sections of pipe that the downspouts terminate at., Some pipes don't quite reach underground pipes, Terminate next to foundation
It was common practice in older homes to install short sections of pipe next to the foundation as a place to terminate the downspouts at. These pipes were not actually connected to underground pipes and drainage was provided by the installation of gravel at the end of the pipe or sometimes just relied on the natural ability of the ground to absorb the water. These types of drains are rarely "functional" and overflowing of this short section of pipe is common.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Downspouts that terminate at the ground next to the foundation are especially troublesome because water can immediately negatively impact the foundation system. I recommend that either extensions be added to the downspouts to carry the water at least 5 feet away from the home, that tight-line drains be installed to collect all of the downspout water and carry it away from the home, or that it be verified that current underground pipes are fully functional.
The current downspout location can contribute directly to excessive moisture in the basement.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Limitations / Exclusions Related to Roof
Roof Inspection Limitations / Exclusions: Includes attic spaces
This report provides an opinion of the general condition of the roof system based on a visual inspection of representative areas. The inspector does not offer an opinion or warranty as to whether the roof leaks or is subject to future leakage.
If it is dry, has been dry for a long time, or is not the rainy season the leaks not showing up at the time of inspection is not unusual. Water stains on ceilings, walls, and soffits that tested dry at the time of inspection may test elevated for moisture under other conditions or at another time.
Specific notation of leakage or stains does not preclude additional areas of leakage and/or hidden damage. Monitor attic for any changes; ongoing or questionable situations should be assessed and corrected. Leakage can lead to Mold or Mold-like/Fungal Growth.
It is common for there to be multiple layers of different kinds of insulation in the attic. It is possible for hidden layers to be discovered especially when the attics could not be inspected. The following limitations were present:
- Not walked on
- Steepness
- Slippery/Wet
- Chimney(s) not entirely visible
- Chimney cap (s) not inspected due to roof not being traversed
- Lichen growth in some areas
- Storage in attic
- No attic to some attic spaces, above front entryway dormer and SW dormer
- 🔍 Due Diligence
💡ELECTRICAL
Electrical Service to Property
Electrical Service: 🛑 GENERAL ELECTRICAL SAFETY WARNING, connected
🛑 GENERAL ELECTRICAL SAFETY WARNING: Even if the electricity has been turned off at the main disconnect, sections of the electrical system prior to the main breaker are still charged with electricity and can be lethal if contacted. I recommend that all changes/corrections made to the electrical system be performed by a licensed electrical contractor.
- 🛑 Safety 👁🗨 Monitor
Overhead Service: GENERAL INFORMATION
The electrical service is the set of wires that run from the street or power pole to the main breaker panel or fuse box. In this building the service runs overhead. An overhead service will include a service drop from a pole to a weather head, where the service drop connects to the service conductors and enters into the service mast conduit that connects to the electric meter base. At the weather head, the service wires should form a loop, called a drip loop, to prevent water from running into the conduit. Overhead service wires should have proper clearances above ground, walkway, or flat roof surfaces. Tree branches should be kept cut back from overhead service wires.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Support wire (neutral ground wire): Attached to bracket on side of building
Mast Restraints: restraints not adequately connected
Utility Company Connections: Covered
Drip Loop: Present
Meter Seals/Condition: Meter Seals (Utility Company seals present)
Torqueing of electrical connection: Lugs
Most electrical connection lugs have specific requirements as to torquing. Loose connections are a primary mode of failure of electrical connections potentially leading to arcing and fires. It is beyond the scope of the inspection to verify proper torquing of connections and it is recommended that proper torquing of connections be verified by the licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs/improvements at the building.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
There may be missing mast restraints, etc. In the context of other electrical work done at the home I recommend the electrician determine if the mast is adequately secured and if not that additional brackets be added. I recommend evaluation/repairs as deemed necessary by a licensed electrical contractor.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Service Equipment
Service Equipment Location at Interior: South side of home/building interior, in basement
Service Rating: 💡
Home: 125 amps (120/240 volts)
Service Voltages: Note about testing voltages, Nominal 240 volts
Washington State Home Inspector Standards of Practice require us to report the Amperage and Voltages of the electrical system. Amperage is determined by a variety of factors, including the panel label, wire size and service disconnect size and the amount is recorded in the "Notes and Maintenance" section of the report. Voltages are more difficult to report, as there can be normal fluctuations of voltages of plus or minus a few volts. Any issues with voltages and amperage will be discussed below when applicable.
Electrical service voltages supplied to buildings can fluctuate a few volts between legs but anything more than 10 volts should probably be further evaluated by a licensed electrical contractor. 120/240 volts is the "nominal" voltage supplied to this building and tested voltages were near these amounts.
120/240 volts: Left lug to neutral 121 volts, Right lug to neutral 123 volts, Right lug to left lug 243 volts
Panel Manufacturer: Cutler/Hammer
Panel Amperage/Voltage rating: 125 amps (120/240 volts)
Service Disconnect: Present Single breaker
Breaker(s): 125 amps (120/240 volts)
Service Conductors: Copper
Size: #2awg
Service Feeder Lug Covers: Not present consistent with time of installation
PANEL CONDITION: Past Expected life, Much rusting of panel, loose neutral connection
Legend Data Plate: Present
Panel cover screws: Sharp Point Cover Screws (Bottom left, Bottom right)
Neutral/Ground Bar: Present right side
Panel Bonding: Strap from Neutral/Ground bar to panel present
Distribution Breakers/Fuses: Breakers, Room for expansion / Additional circuits (Room for expansion / Additional circuits, No Room)
Tandem Breakers: Panel is NOT rated for installation of tandem breakers--some tandem breakers noted
Working Space at Panel: Access OK
There is much rusting of the panel, etc. There is a loose connection of the neutral/ground wire to the neutral/ground bar as indicated by considerable efflorescence on the lug. There are double lugging of wires on breakers (even though this is a type that allows double lugging), and tandem breakers which the panel is not rated for. There are multiple lugged neutrals on the neutral/ground bar. All of these issues are indications that the panel no longer meets the needs of the home and I recommend upgrading the electrical panel by a licensed electrical contractor. If the panel is not to be replaced right away, I recommend correction of the loose neutral wire as soon as practical.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
The panel cover is secured with "pointed" screws. These screws can damage wires in the enclosure. I recommend replacement of these screws with proper panel cover screws by licensed electrical contractor when they are at the premises for other reasons.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Electrical Grounding System (EGS)
Utility Grounding: Utility company transformer ground at pole (Ground wire is present)
Metal Water Pipe Grounding Electrode: General information, Not visible--not located
In the context of the inspection, I attempt to visually document electrical system grounding. The electrical system grounding creates a pathway to shunt static charges (that would otherwise build up on the metallic systems in the building) to earth, and to provide a pathway to trip a breaker in the event that these bonded metallic components became energized. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of the grounding system. However, there are many things that can lead me to recommend further evaluation by a licensed electrical contractor and they will be documented in the observations below.
🛑 Safety
Rod Grounding Electrode: General information, Rods seen at (Ground rods not driven below finish grade), two locations under deck
In the context of the inspection, I attempt to visually document electrical system grounding. Electrical system grounding creates a pathway to shunt static charges (that would otherwise build up on the metallic systems in the building) to earth, and to provide a pathway to trip a breaker in the event that these bonded metallic components became energized. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of the grounding system. However, there are many things that can lead me to recommend further evaluation by a licensed electrical contractor and they will be documented in the observations below.
🛑 Safety
Amperage on grounding system: No amperage on ground wire at time of inspection
While none or very little amperage was noted on the grounding system at the time of inspection, there are too many variables to conclude that there is never any current on the system. Amounts can vary with house use of electricity, neighbor's electrical systems as well as the electrical utility itself. Having it periodically checked is prudent.
- 🛑 Safety 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
Electrical Bonding of Metallic Systems
General Bonding Information: Bonding of metallic systems
In the context of the inspection, I attempt to visually document electrical system bonding. There is no way in the context of a home inspection to verify the "effectiveness" of system bonding. All metallic systems in the building are required to be "bonded" (connected) to the the building's electrical grounding system. Bonding creates a pathway to shunt static charges (that would otherwise build up on the metallic systems in the building) to earth, and to provide a pathway to trip a breaker in the event that these bonded metallic components became energized. There are many things that can lead me to recommend further evaluation by a licensed electrical contractor and they will be documented in the observations below.
- 🛑 Safety 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
Water Pipe Bonding: Bonding noted at, Bonding present at water heater
Metal Drain Bonding: None/Not Visible
Gas pipe bonding: Not visible--not located
Low Voltage System Wiring/Bonding: was not determined
Phone System Bonding: Bonding of system not determined--have electrician verify when they are at the home for some other reason
Cable System Bonding: Bonding of system not determined--have electrician verify when they are at the home for some other reason, Connection at Meter Base
When metal drains are installed in the home, current standards require that they be properly bonded to the electrical grounding system. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed electrical contractor to insure that all metal piping is properly bonded to the building electrical grounding system when the licensed electrical contractor is at the home for other reasons.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
When metallic gas pipes are installed in the home, current standards require that they be properly bonded to the electrical grounding system. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed electrical contractor to insure that all metal piping is properly bonded to the building electrical grounding system when the licensed electrical contractor is at the home for other reasons.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Multiple Wires Under Lugs
Termination of wires: Multiple Neutral wires under a lug, Ground and Neutral wires improperly terminated together, see service equipment narrative
Lock-out/Lock-on Devices
May not have been required at time of construction: None present, What is a lock-out/lock-on device?
Current standards require "lock-out" devices on appliances that are "hard-wired" back to the electrical panel disconnect (unless the appliance is in the line of sight of the electrical panel). This is for the safety of persons servicing the appliances.
- For improved electrical service the licensed electrical contractor can install these lock-out devices when they are at the building for other reasons.
Devices Present/Not Present for: Dishwasher lock-out device is not present
The Dish Washer Circuit "lock-out" device was not installed. I recommend installation of lock-out device by licensed electrical contractor when they are at the home for other reasons or in the context of the panel replacement.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Surge Protection Devices (SPD's)
SPD not present: Not present but considered best practice and installation is encouraged
Voltage surges can be a costly example of the power interference that occurs in Buildings every day. This momentary rise in voltage can start inside or outside a Building and damage sensitive electronic equipment such as computer, Building entertainment center, treadmills, and all the other --often expensive -- equipment found in most Buildings today.
- Conventional surge protectors in the home cannot protect against large surges from lightning and it is still considered best practice to unplug expensive appliances during a lightning storm.
- Whole Building surge arresters should be installed at the Building's electrical service panel by professional, licensed electrical contractors. There are dozens of different makes, models and styles of surge protectors on the market, which vary greatly in both price and quality. The type and size of the service panel, how full the panel is, as well as the investment in appliances and electronic devices that need to be protected all play a role in determining which surge protector should be installed. Your service professional, after inspecting the Building and service panel, will make the recommendation as to the appropriate product to be installed.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Distribution Wiring
Voltage readings above 120 volts: More than 120 volts noted
It is common in some areas for the voltage to be higher than 120 volts on the house circuits. (1-4 volts higher) When this occurs light bulbs rated at 120 volts do not last as long. I recommend installing bulbs rated for 130 volts. While these bulbs aren't as readily available they will last longer (they can be found at electrical supply stores).
- This condition is not considered problematic with LED type bulbs as they supposedly handle wider voltage ranges.
- 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ
Induced ("Phantom") voltage: Some indicated
When grounded Non-Metallic Sheathed Cable is added into wiring systems that have no ground (or when the ground wire of grounded Non-Metallic Sheathed Cable systems is disconnected), an electromagnetic frequency is set up in the ungrounded ground wire making the ground wire and any metal components the ground wire is connected to appear "hot" by voltage "ticker". This can make conduit, metal boxes, cover plates, cover plate screws, light fixture components, refrigerator cases, etc appear "hot". While not in itself a safety issue it does indicate that any such wiring is not grounded and that in the case of ungrounded circuits it is an indication that these circuits have been added to. It can also be a safety issue if the component actually is "hot" because of other reasons. When Phantom voltage is found corrections of the electrical system are warranted/necessary. More Information about Phantom Voltage Another link to more information about Phantom Voltage
- 🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Wire Temperature rating: Wiring less than 90C Prior to 1986 with knob & tube (Some present)
Houses with multiple wiring types/systems: Multiple wiring methods present
Estimates of amounts of various types/systems of wiring in the home is for informational purposes only as there is no way to give an accurate accounting of actual amounts installed in the home.
Wiring type(s): Copper wire
Grounded Non-Metallic Sheathed Cable--NM--commonly called Romex: In attic, In basement, In Walls, Estimated % of home with "Grounded" Non-Metallic Sheathed Cable is, 60%
Wiring in Conduit (Rigid and Flex): In basement, % of conduit wiring in building not determined, 10%
Knob & Tube: In attic, In basement, In Walls, 30%, Until homes with knob-and-tube wiring can be upgraded it is recommended that for additional safety the circuits be protected by AFCI breakers. (See AFCI note below)
Metal cover plates in ungrounded circuits: indoor light switches
Junction Boxes etc: Junction boxes with missing covers
Houses that have ungrounded wiring systems should not use metal cover plates as there is more risk of the plates becoming energized and creating a shock hazard. Replacement of any metal covers with plastic covers at indoor light switches is advised for safety. I only noted one cover at the interior that might apply, in the second floor SE Bedroom. This switch is also upside down.. There are likely others around the home however.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
There are several junction boxes throughout the basement that are missing cover plates. Cover plates should be installed by the electrician in the context of other electrical repairs at the home. Some of the noted locations are pictured below, others should be anticipated.
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The home has older style Knob & Tube wiring. I recommend that this wiring be maintained and not added to as additional electrical needs are addressed. I recommend that the wiring in attic spaces be replaced prior to insulating those spaces. All work on these older circuits must be performed by a licensed electrical contractor. Knob & Tube this wiring should be replaced as needs for additional wiring are called for and should not be added-to because of the solder type connections used in its original installation. Until the home can be upgraded it is recommended that these older circuits have AFCI breakers installed by a licensed electrical contractor. (See AFCI note below).
An important consideration regarding this older style wiring is that the covering often becomes brittle especially at the connection behind light fixtures where installation of over-wattage bulbs and or frequent changing of light fixtures has stressed the wires inside the junction boxes. In older installations there might not even be any junction boxes present. Overheating and arcing conditions are common at these locations and great care should be taken in opening these boxes and changing light fixtures. Obviously work on these older circuits should only be done by qualified persons. Sometimes obtaining insurance to cover homes with K & T is an issue, so make sure you familiarize yourself with your insurance carrier's requirements. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed electrical contractor
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Receptacle Outlets
Receptacle replacement: Informational note
As of July 1st, 2014, any receptacle replaced in a home must be provided with AFCI protection when the receptacle is being replaced in circuits that require AFCI protection (See AFCI section of this report below). This can be accomplished at the receptacle itself, at a point downstream of the receptacle or at the panel where the circuit originates. Whenever possible protecting the entire circuit is considered best practice.
In the context of any electrical panel replacement, the installation of AFCI breakers on all circuits that currently require AFCI protection is considered best practice.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Grounded Receptacles: Estimated % of Grounded Receptacles based on random sample, 50%
Ungrounded Receptacles: Estimated % of Un-rounded Receptacles base on random sample, 50%
Ungrounded 3-prong receptacles: Some three prong receptacles tested as "ungrounded"
Tamper Resistant Receptacles (required after June 6, 2009): Present at some locations
By current regulations in place in Washington State, any receptacle that is replaced in a home is required to be replaced with a Tamper Resistant Type Receptacle. There are a few exceptions detailed in the links below.
- More absolutely shocking news!
- Washington State Amendments to the National Electric Code regarding Tamper Resistant Receptacles
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Weather Resistant Receptacles (required at all damp and wet locations): Present at some locations, Missing at some receptacles
By current regulations in place in Washington State, any receptacle that is replaced in a damp or wet location is required to be replaced with a Weather Resistant Type Receptacle.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Receptacle Wiring Issues: Dryer receptacles 3-prong
Receptacle conditions: Loose Receptacles, Receptacles with mechanical damage, Metal covers in ungrounded circuits
Ungrounded receptacles (circuits) in homes this age are common. With no equipment ground there is no path to trip a breaker in the event of a fault to ground or other grounded metal components. This represents a shock and fire hazard. Also the equipment ground provides a path to ground for static charges that can build up on metallic components especially sensitive electronics. Upgrading any circuits that will power sensitive electronics is recommended. Ungrounded receptacles are less problematic when they are located in areas that typically have no paths to ground (bedrooms, attics, living rooms, closets etc.).
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
It is quite common (and true of this home) to find ungrounded three-prong receptacles in older homes, where the receptacle have been "upgraded" to the newer three prong type without ever upgrading the ground wire. These receptacles should: (1) be returned to "two-prong" type receptacles; (2) have GFCI receptacles installed; or, (3) be rewired to include a ground wire; all by a licensed electrical contractor. Receptacles with no equipment ground can be problematic for appliances that require a ground, especially sensitive electronic equipment as there is no path to shunt to earth the static charges that build up on these electronics. Upgrading these circuits may be warranted. In addition, correction of two prong ungrounded receptacles that have been replaced with 3 prong type receptacles and they remain ungrounded can be complicated, if the replacement occurred when AFCI protection was required. There are several options:
- The receptacles can be changed back to 2 prong type receptacles (not recommended).
- The first receptacle in the circuit can be changed to a dual function (both AFCI & GFCI) type receptacle and all the downstream receptacles would then be labeled "Not Grounded."
- The circuit breakers in the panel can be replaced with dual function (both AFCI & GFCI) type breakers and all the receptacles in the circuit would then be labeled "Not Grounded.
- A ground wire can be added to the receptacle locations where feasible.
- The circuits can be rewired.
Sometimes a combination of these choices is practical. Consult with the licensed electrical contractor to determine the best course of action and associated costs.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
No weather-resistant receptacles were noted in the home. Electrical permits drawn after June 6, 2009 would likely require this type of receptacle at wet locations like the outside receptacles. I recommend bringing this to the attention of the builder/seller for proper repairs by the licensed electrical contractor.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Loose receptacles can cause flexing of the wires at their attachments leading to arcing/overheating. Since not all receptacles are checked during an inspection, when loose receptacles are found they should be properly secured in their boxes. Sometimes this repair can be made by homeowner/handyperson--for optimum safety all electrical repairs should be made by qualified persons.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Receptacles that have sustained mechanical damage should be replaced. Mechanical damage can result in exposing energized components and become a shock hazard. I recommend evaluation/repairs by the licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs at the home. The receptacle next to the opening into the downstairs hallway from the living room has a cover that should be replaced.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Lighting Outlets
General Lighting info: Missing/non-functional light bulbs noted--replace as desired
Global lighting concerns: Missing globes, Fixtures subject to mechanical damage
Exterior lights: Lights at exterior doors, Function not determined at some locations
Light fixtures switched from multiple locations are present in the home: General Information when no issues noted
Lights that are switched from multiple locations (like 3-way and 4-way switches) can sometimes be wired improperly so that if one of the switches is in the wrong position the lights will not work from the other location. This miswiring of switches is often not found during the course of a Standard Home Inspection due to not testing the circuit with all possible combination of options. When this condition is discovered, repairs are usually quite simple when performed by a licensed electrician.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Can Lights: Present at several locations
Can lights, whether modern air-tight type cans or older non-insulation contact cans, can be a major contributor to heat loss and air movement into roof structures. This is difficult to determine during the course of a home inspection but if moisture issues are apparent or become apparent in the roof structure, these lights should be considered one possible cause of the issue. Blower door tests can be performed to determine how well sealed can lights are.
🌲 Efficiency / IAQ
Light/Switch/Wiring Conditions: Light fixtures with missing components, Missing globes/covers at several locations--install wherever found missing
Porcelain bulb holders present: In garage, In attic, In several basement locations, In closet locations, Conditions (Cotton pull string fire hazard, Subject to physical damage)
Porcelain bulb holders pose a risk of fire from stored items and are subject to mechanical damage. I recommend as an upgrade, replacement of these bulb holders with fixtures approved for closet installation and or not so subject to mechanical damage.
- 🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
In the knee-wall attics there are light fixtures that are subject to mechanical damage because of how low they are and how far into the area they protrude. I recommend replacement of all such fixtures with more appropriate fixtures by a licensed electrical contractor as a safety upgrade.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
The light fixture at the front entryway is missing its bottom piece of glass. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs done at the home.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
The light fixture at the NE Bedroom has missing a missing globes/covers with exposed wiring. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical repairs done at the home.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Some locations have pull string type porcelain lamp holders. These are known to be fire hazards in closets due to possible proximity to stored items as well as being subject to physical damage and that the string against the bulb can catch fire. I recommend replacement of all such fixtures with closet approved type fixtures by a licensed electrical contractor.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
The light fixtures under the kitchen cabinets have wiring connectors that stick down and could injure persons cleaning in the area. They could possibly be turned around like some are. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical work, as deemed necessary.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
GFCI/AFCI devices
Where Are AFCI required?: Require when extending circuits, Older homes can benefit, Upgrading, Added protection for (Knob & Tube BX and Unrounded NM)
It is important for home owners to become aware that modern standards require the installation of AFCI protection for new wiring installations and even replacement of receptacles wherever AFCI protection is currently required. This means that Installation of AFCI devices will typically be required whenever simply replacing a receptacle if the receptacle is in a locations where AFCI protection is now required. Because older wiring systems are more vulnerable to the kinds of fires causes by the conditions these devices protect against, installation of the devices is a good idea.
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Where Are GFCI required?: Older homes can benefit
Currently all 125-volt & 250-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed in the following locations shall have ground-fault circuit interrupter protection: bathrooms, garages, detached non-habitable buildings, outdoors, crawl spaces, unfinished or finished basements, kitchen countertop receptacles, within 6 feet of all sinks, boathouses, within 6 feet of a tub or shower, laundry areas, dishwasher branch circuit, crawl space lighting outlets. The home appeared to be wired to current requirements, however not every outlet was checked. Also exterior HVAC under 60 amps require GFCI protection. According to the NEC (National Electric Code): "Older homes are statistically more vulnerable to shocks related to ungrounded circuits. Extra protection for older homes is provided by replacement of ungrounded wiring and installation of GFCI protection.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Testing GFCI's and AFCI's: See AFCI testing procedures below, See GFCI testing procedures below
An arc-fault circuit interrupter is a device intended to provide protection from the effects of arc faults by recognizing characteristics unique to arcing and by functioning to de-energize the circuit when an arc fault is detected. They should be tested monthly by the homeowner.
- Plug a nightlight (with an "ON/OFF" switch) or other product (such as a lamp or 3-bulb circuit tester) into the AFCI receptacle and turn the product "ON."
- Push the "Test" button located on the AFCI receptacle. The nightlight (or other product) or circuit should go "OFF."
- Push the "Reset" button. The light or circuit should go "ON" again.
- Circuit breaker type AFCI devices are checked by pushing the test button on the breaker.
Modern AFCI receptacles and breakers have "self-testing" capabilities but they still should be tested manually per manufacturer's instructions.
- 🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) can help prevent electrocution inside and outside the home. GFCIs are an effective means of protecting against electrical shock, however, they must be tested regularly -- UL recommends once a month -- to verify they are working properly.
- Plug a nightlight (with an "ON/OFF" switch) or other product (such as a lamp or 3-bulb circuit tester) into the GFCI receptacle and turn the product "ON."
- Push the "Test" button located on the GFCI receptacle. The nightlight (or other product) or circuit should go "OFF."
- Push the "Reset" button. The light or circuit should go "ON" again.
- Circuit breaker type GFCI devices are checked by pushing the test button on the breaker.
Modern GFCI receptacles and breakers have "self-testing" capabilities but they still should be tested manually per manufacturer's instructions.
- 🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Ungrounded Circuit GFCI's: None noted
According to the NEC (National Electric Code): "Older homes are statistically more vulnerable to electrical fires. Extra protection for older homes is provided by the gradual replacement, over time, of non-AFCI-protected receptacles with new AFCI-protected ones." I recommend, for improved safety, that the home be upgraded by a licensed electrical contractor to AFCI protection wherever currently required.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Currently all 120-volt, single phase, 15- and 20-ampere branch circuits supplying outlets installed in dwelling unit family rooms, dining rooms, kitchens, laundries, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, or similar rooms or areas are required to be AFCI protected per current regulations. Upgrading to current standards is recommended.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
In homes with Knob & Tube, Armored Cable, and Un-Grounded Non-Metallic Sheathed Cable wiring it is considered a good idea (until wiring can be replaced) to give added protection to these older circuits by adding Combination Type AFCI breakers to the circuits. These old systems are prone to the types of arcing conditions that these breakers are designed to detect. Circuits that have been compromised by the addition of post installation wiring are particularly vulnerable to these arcing conditions because connections are frequently not professionally done. I recommend that licensed electrical contractor install Arc Fault Breakers on these circuits.
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GFCI Protection in Kitchen and at Other Sinks
Locations of GFCI devices: Where currently required
Two Kitchen Circuits: Two separate appliance circuits apparent
In the course of a Standard Home Inspection it cannot always be easily determined if there are two appliance circuits present and the presence of two GFCI devices is not always an indication of two separate circuits.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Dishwasher GFCI: Not GFCI protected as required
The dishwasher circuit is not GFCI protected as would likely have been required at the time of remodeling the kitchen. Depending on how the washer is wired, GFCI protection can either be provided at the unit itself or at the circuit breaker in the electrical panel. I recommend repairs (this would have been required when the kitchen was remodeled likely) by a licensed electrical contractor.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
GFCI Protection in Laundry
Laundry Area GFCI Protection: No GFCI protected receptacles in Laundry area at
Modern standards required GFCI protection of all receptacles in laundry rooms. At the time of inspection there was no GFCI protection at the following locations: Washing machine, Dryer 120 volt receptacle. I recommend evaluation/repairs/upgrading by the licensed electrical contractor in the context of other electrical improvements.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
GFCI Garage
Garage GFCI: Some Garage Receptacles that were tested, tested as NOT GFCI protected
Some of the Garage receptacles are not GFCI protected (some receptacles, etc). Current requirements call for ALL 120 volt 15 amp and 20 amp receptacles in the garage be GFCI protected. Upgrading to current standards is recommended for improved safety. Consult with electrical contractor when they are at the home for other reasons.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
GFCI Exterior and Miscellaneous
Exterior Receptacles: Exterior receptacles GFCI protected (on south side of building), Not GFCI protected (on west side of building)
Unfinished Basement GFCI's: Receptacles (No GFCI protected receptacles in unfinished basement Space found)
The receptacles in the basement were not GFCI protected. I recommend evaluation/improvements by the licensed electrical contractor. Currently all basement 125 volt receptacles are required to be GFCI protected.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
GFCI's Main Upper Bathroom
BATHROOM GFCI's: All located Bathroom Receptacles tested as GFCI protected where currently required
Sink Receptacles: GFCI protected, Receptacle above the toilet tested as GFCI protected
Exhaust fan in tub/shower enclosure: GFCI protection not verified
GFCI protection was not verified at the receptacle over the toilet in the Main Bathroom in terms of whether it protects the exhaust fan in the tub/shower enclosure as would be required by the fan manufacturer. I recommend evaluation/verification and repairs if necessary by the licensed electrical contractor.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
AFCI Devices/Protection for Lighting Outlets
Lighting Outlets: Light outlets NOT AFCI protected, Typical of time of construction except for the kitchen which likely would have required it at the time of construction
Modern requirements for AFCI protection of lighting outlets in homes covers many locations. In this home none of the lighting outlets tested as AFCI protected in the kitchen as would have been expected when remodeled. I recommend having a licensed electrical contractor install AFCI protection where practical or in the context of remodeling or in conjunction of replacement of the electrical panel.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
AFCI Devices/Protection for Receptacles and other Outlets
Receptacle & Other Outlets: Receptacle outlets NOT AFCI protected, AFCI protection missing
Modern requirements for AFCI protection of receptacle and other outlets in homes covers many locations. In this home AFCI protection was missing for kitchen receptacles, for the dishwasher circuit, for the microwave circuit, for the refrigerator circuit, etc. As a fire-safety upgrade, I recommend having a licensed electrical contractor install AFCI protection where practical or in the context of remodeling where currently required or in the context of the panel replacement.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Carbon Monoxide Detection Systems
See Notes 🛑: below about carbon monoxide detectors
At the time of inspection Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors are not tested. I recommend that prior to move-in, that all Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors be tested and have their batteries replaced. It is recommended that Carbon Monoxide detectors that are older than 10 years should be replaced by a licensed electrical contractor if they are hard-wired; and replaced by the building owner/handy-person if they are battery operated. These devices are currently required, according to Washington State Law to be maintained by the tenant/homeowner according to the manufacturer's recommendations/instructions and are required in all homes.
- For optimum safety, Carbon Monoxide alarm/detectors are required in the immediate vicinity of bedrooms and on each floor level of the home and inside of any sleeping room if there is a gas appliance in the room. "Immediate vicinity" is not defined but most manufacturers recommend they be installed between 5 and 20 feet of sleeping rooms. Alarm/detectors must be maintained free of dust and debris which can interfere with operation. They should be installed per manufacturer's instructions . While it is primarily fuel burning appliances the produce carbon monoxide, CO is also produced from electric appliances like toasters and ranges (especially ovens on self clean cycle).
- Please be aware that residential Carbon Monoxide detectors are cumulative and are designed to not sound with low levels of carbon monoxide. Some people are more susceptible than others to low levels of carbon monoxide and I consider it prudent to familiarize yourself with the symptoms/warning signs of Carbon Monoxide. Detectors that meet the UL-2034 requirements for detectors installed in residential construction are not allowed to sound at continuous CO levels up to 30 ppm, 70 ppm for 4 hours, 150 ppm for up to 50 minutes and 400 ppm for up to 15 minutes. CARBON MONOXIDE
- A good low level, UL-2034, 10 year alarm is made by Defender.
- Combination type alarms can be problematic even while meeting "legal requirements" for installation. Carbon Monoxide detectors in conjunction with Ionization type smoke detectors is problematic due to the poor ion technology (see links under smoke alarms previous to this section). The devices also can have different life spans. For best protection, combination type alarms should not be used, even though this is a standard recommendation of manufacturers. The International Association of Fire Fighters (IAFF) specifically recommends against installing combination alarms. Combination type alarms are required to be UL-217 and UL-2034 listed.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
General comments: None seen post 2011
No Carbon monoxide alarm/detectors were observed outside the sleeping room areas. I recommend that homeowner/handyperson install a carbon monoxide alarm/detector according to the manufacturers specifications. These alarm/detectors are currently required in all homes. They are currently required on each floor level of the home and outside each sleeping area of the home. A plug-in type detector with digital readout is preferred. They are required to be maintained to the manufacturer's instructions by the tenant of the home. Sometimes there are combination smoke/carbon monoxide alarm/detectors in the home.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
🔥 Smoke Alarm / Detection Systems
See notes 🛑: Below about smoke alarms
At the time of inspection smoke alarms are not tested. I recommend that prior to move-in, that all smoke alarms be tested according to manufacturer's recommendations and that their batteries be replaced. It is recommended that smoke alarms that are older than 5-7 years should be replaced by a licensed electrical contractor if they are hard-wired; and replaced by the building owner/handy-person if they are battery operated.
- For optimum safety, hard-wired smoke alarms with backup batteries are recommended. At least one smoke alarm should be installed on each floor of the building. Alarms must be maintained free of dust and debris which can interfere with operation.
- Smoke alarm technology is evolving and current wisdom is going in the direction of recommending that only Photoelectric smoke alarms be installed in the building due to the nuisance tripping and other human factors involved with misuse and maintenance associated with Ionization type smoke alarms. It is not possible in the context of the building inspection to determine why types of alarms are installed in the building. You are encouraged to install and maintain any type of alarm in the building and you are encouraged to upgrade alarms to photoelectric type alarms. See the following link for a discussion of Ionization vs. Photoelectric Alarms: Photo-Electric Smoke Alarms and Silent Alarms; Deadly Differences.
- After June 30, 2021 all smoke alarms will be required to meet the 9th (the 8th was never adopted) edition of UL 217. These alarms are designed to reduce issues with previous versions and will be more responsive to multiple kinds of fire scenarios as well as address nuisance tripping issues of previous versions.
- In anticipation of the adoption of the 8th edition of UL 217, Kidde produced a dual sensor alarm that is purported to meet those standards, but given those standards were never adopted, they may or may not be an improvement over just stand alone photo-electric type alarms.
- 🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
SMOKE ALARM Maintenance
- Clean regularly. Dust and debris will interfere with normal operation.
- Replace batteries at least once a year---or better yet install 10yr type batteries.
- Schedule regular maintenance and tests. The Consumer Products Safety Commission recommends checking these alarms every Spring & Fall time change. Tests should be performed according to manufacturer's instructions.
- It is not usually possible in the context of a building inspection to determine whether smoke alarms are Ionization type or photoelectric type.
- 🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Battery Type Smoke Alarm Locations: Present at basement level, Present at main floor level, Present at second floor level, Present inside main floor bedrooms, Present inside second floor bedrooms
Door Bell
Front Door Bell: Function (Not tested--verify function)
Transformer location: Near electrical panel, Front entryway closet
Inspection Limitations / Exclusions related to electrical
Electrical System Limitations/Exclusions: Miscellaneous information, Some components not included in this inspection, Limited access to attic space (s), Storage in Attic, Furnishings / Storage prevented access to most receptacle outlets, Very poor access to garage
- Low voltage wiring systems, including timers and sensors, are not part of this inspection.
- Security and alarm systems are not within the scope of this inspection.
- Evaluation of auxiliary, low voltage, electric or electronic equipment (e.g., TV, doorbell, computer, cable, lightning protection, surge protection, low voltage lighting, intercoms, site lighting, etc.,) is not performed as part of a standard building inspection.
- Unless otherwise noted no determination is made as to whether any electrical component has the proper UL Listing. Permanently installed light fixtures made in other countries sometimes do not have the proper UL Listing indicated on them.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
🚿PLUMBING
Public Utility/Private Water Supply
Underground Storage Tanks: Might be present, Should be anticipated, Presence of tank(s) not determined
It is not always possible to determine if any kind of underground storage tank is present on the site. If a tank is present and has been abandoned, many local ordinances often require that the tank be decommissioned or removed. Each jurisdiction has its own rules regarding decommissioning and they should be consulted regarding specific requirements.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
House Water Supply Meter Location: At street, Meter compartment dirt filled
Picture of meter location
Main Water Shut-off: present
Water Pressure: Water Pressure, PSI tested at, South outside faucet, 72 psi
Functional Flow: Measured flow rate in Gallons Per Minute, 8.5 to to 10 GPM
Normal household water flow rates should be between 6 and 12 gallons per minute for proper function of fixtures/appliances throughout the home. Lots of factors can influence flow rates, including types and conditions of pipes, distance of fixtures from source, height of fixtures above grade, as well as pressure differences. While I measured the flow rate as indicated above, adequate flow can be hard to verify or quantify. It is important to keep in mind, you can have good water pressure and still not have adequate functional flow. Determining functional flow throughout the home is based on subjective observation by operating fixtures. The way you use fixtures may not have been duplicated. This information covers the testing of all fixtures/appliances in the home that are tested, and only issues related to specific locations will be discussed where applicable. Measured flow is only somewhat accurate for the location where it was taken, and will be different at any other location. It is only useful as a guide to reliable flow throughout the home, and not a guarantee.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Main Water Line and Protection: Main Water Line (Not visible--type and size of pipe not determined), Copper, street side of valve but underground not determined
Enters Home/Building at : Basement (West side of basement)
Diameter of pipe : 3/4"
Back-flow Valve: None/Not seen
No assessment of the proper function of backflow valves can be made during a standard building inspection. These valves must be inspected and tested once a year in most jurisdictions. I recommend that this valve be tested by a qualified back flow valve testing company as required.
- 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
The water meter at the west of the property could not be inspected due to the compartment being filled with dirt. I recommend proper clearing away of the dirt by a qualified party. Any leaking that is discovered should be evaluated by a licensed plumber.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
💧Water Supply Piping Inside the Building
Water Supply Piping in the Building: Most of piping not visible
Copper Pipe: Amounts of copper pipe (Some present)
Hot/Cold Water Pipe Insulation: Cold water pipes (Not insulated), Hot water pipes (Not insulated)
None of the hot water supply piping in the garage and in the basement is properly insulated. I recommend a qualified person install insulation for energy conservation.
- 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ
Outside Faucets
Informational notes: General Information related to outside faucets after September 1st
The outside faucets listed below may not include all the faucets present on the property. Evaluation of other faucets located should be further evaluated in the context of other plumbing work done at the building.
Hoses (when removed for testing) are not re-installed after testing if it is after September 1st.
Outside faucets are typically tested as to basic function (turn off and on) and tested under back pressure with a pressure gauge.
Above Information not repeated in relation to other outside faucets.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Frost Free Outside Faucet at south side of home
Frost Free Faucet: Frost-free component of this faucet not confirmed--but suspected, Turned on, under back-pressure, without leaking, Valve stem drained when test gauge removed (indicative of proper slope and that the valve is frost-free type), Anti-siphon device can be added, Valve attachment (Screws missing)
Adding anti-siphon devices to the frost free faucets is recommended. These devices are readily available at Lowes/Home Depot and can be installed by homeowner/handyperson. Small amounts of water can remain in the anti-siphon device that can freeze in winter and cause damage to the device. Inside the device, where the water comes out, there is a lever that needs to be moved to drain this small amount of water. This will help protect the device from freeze damage. Upgrading to faucets that have integral anti-siphon devices is recommended to avoid this issue.
- 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
The hose faucet at the NE corner and the SW corner of the home are not properly attached to the house (screws missing). I recommend proper attachment by qualified person to prevent damage to the valve/pipe connections.
- 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Non Frost-Free Outside Faucet at east side of home
Non Frost-Free Faucet: Leaking (Leaking of valve stem during "back-pressure-test" noted), Valve attachment (Screws missing)
It is common for hose faucets to leak around the valve stem resulting in the wasting of water. Usually this can be corrected by tightening the valve stem nut slightly. I recommend further evaluation/repairs by a licensed plumber. The valve stem at the NE outside faucet leaks under back pressure.
- 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
The hose faucet at the north corner of the home is not properly attached to the house (screws missing). I recommend proper attachment by qualified person to prevent damage to the valve/pipe connections.
- 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Waste Pipe and Discharge
Public Sewer 🛑: Public Sewer, Sewer scoping is recommended but is newer construction
Interior Clean-out Location: Present at, north side of basement
Clean-out at Exterior: Main stack clean-out NOT located
Back-water Valve: None found, Drains in home below the man-hole cover at the street
Back-water valves are currently required whenever the street man-hole cover is higher than the fixtures draining to the public sewer.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Drain / Waste / Vent Piping (DWV): Some of drainage piping not visible
I test plumbing fixtures throughout the home by operating stoppers or flushing mechanisms and observe the flow of water out of the fixture after it is filled. I make no determination as to whether drainage is, or will be, sufficient. This approach is true of all points of water use throughout the home and will not be repeated elsewhere except as pertains to any issues with those sinks, tubs, showers toilets etc. Floor drains are typically not tested, and verification of their function is advised.
- 🔍 Reasonable steps should be taken such that you are fully informed and confident.
ABS Drain Pipes: Minimal--incidental to repairs/remodeling, Conditions (Improper slope/installation noted, ABS components connected to PVC)
PVC Drain Pipes: Newer drains at north and south sides of basement
Galvanized Drain Pipes: Some present--typical of time of construction
Cast Iron Drain Pipes: Some present--typical of time of construction
Traps: P-Traps
Modern standards require installation of a P-trap at sinks and most drain locations. The sink drains vertically into the trap and water is maintained in the trap to the weir. As water rises above the weir it run down the drain within a specified length based on the size of the drain. At all times the weir must be able to "see" the vent--typically hidden in the wall. Without a proper vent, the trap can siphon. Gurgling sounds while draining or siphoning while draining can be an indication of problems with the vent including its not being present. When venting is found to be missing/insufficient the addition of an Air Admittance Valve is typically an easy solution. No such issues were noted at the time of inspection.
- 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
ABS Vent Pipes: Some noted
PVC Vent Pipes: Some as part of plumbing upgrade
Galvanized Vent Pipes: Run through the roof
Cast Iron Vent Pipes: Run through the roof
Vent Pipe Flashings: No defects noted, Lead type flashings
Floor Drains: NO Basement floor drains located (may be hidden)
At the time of inspection no basement floor drain was located. Whenever basement floors are below finish grade installation of floor drains is considered a good idea to protect against severe flooding of the basement. Discuss with plumber as to options.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor
Stating the home is on a public sewage system is based on listing information, other public resources and lack of obvious observable indications of an on site sewage disposal system. It is possible that I may not be able to determine which type of disposal system is present with 100% certainty. It is it is not likely, sufficient water will be used during the course of the inspection that would duplicate actual use of the drainage systems of the home under all scenarios. Plugged drains are quite common in homes and the interior condition of drains can not typically be determined or predicted. I recommend you utilize all resources available to verify the type of system, to your satisfaction.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor
Proper function and life expectancy of the main sewer drains is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend that if there are concerns about the function of the main sewer drain that it be evaluated by a licensed plumber with a Spectra-Scope. It is not likely in the course of the standard home inspection that large enough quantities of water will be drained to determine the adequacy of the drains. Proper function of house drain to the city sewer is beyond the scope of this inspection. I recommend that proper function be both determined and maintained. The best method to verify function is to have them inspected with a remote camera device. This is rarely a concern in new or newer homes.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor
The main plumbing drain clean-out was not located at the time of inspection. One may be hidden or covered over or simply not present. Sometimes removing the toilet is necessary for drain cleaning or scoping of the drain. All plumbing systems should have a proper clean-out and in the context of other plumbing repairs, I recommend one be installed by a licensed plumber. Asking the seller if they know where it is located is also recommended.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor
The drain pipes at the main floor bathroom tub were noted as less than professional installation. This installation can have inadequate drainage leading to clogged pipes. I recommend evaluation/repairs as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
The drain for the dishwasher is improperly hard piped with no air gap or air break. Seattle allows the use of a high loop but a countertop air gap is still recommended. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed plumber.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Houses that have plumbing drain components below the street man-hole cover are required by current standards to have back flow protection to prevent flooding of the home with sewage from the city sewer. I could not determine whether this house could benefit from one or not or whether one is present but hidden. I recommend evaluation/repairs and/or verification as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
Gas Piping at Property
Gas Piping: Present natural gas
Black Steel and Galvanized Pipe: Black Steel, Galvanized pipe
Gas Meter: Gas Meter Located at, SW corner of the home
Regulator Vent: Meter regulator-vent appears un-obstructed
Seismic Shut-off: Present
Gas Water Heater
Gas Water Heater: Tank type water heater warning, Natural Gas
Under certain conditions, hydrogen gas may be produced in a hot water system that has not been used for two weeks or more. HYDROGEN GAS IS EXPLOSIVE. If the hot water system has not been used for two weeks or more, turn on all hot water faucets and let the water flow from each for several minutes. This will release any accumulated hydrogen gas. As the gas is flammable, do not smoke or use an open flame during this time. It is a good idea to keep this in mind when getting home from vacation /traveling.
Leaking water heaters can be costly, causing extensive property damage. Installation of a WAGS (Water and Gas Shut-off) Valve can minimize damage. These valves can be installed on any kind of water heater and require a pan under the heater and can even be used on water heaters that have pans with drains. For more information please see the following link: WAGS VALVE
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
Conventional domestic gas water heaters have life expectancies that vary throughout Washington State. In some areas, life expectancy may be as low as 8 to 12 years. In other areas they can be expected to last 15 to 25 years.
Manufacturer: Bradford White
Manufacture date: 2019
Years old: 1
BTU Rating: 40,000
Size, number of gallons for tanks under 55 gallons: 50
Drip Legs and Sediment Traps: Sediment Traps (Present (utility side of appliance shut-off valve), This can be repaired when the HVAC contractor is at the home for other reasons if deemed necessary)
Combustion/Dilution Air: Adequate Combustion Air, Taken from Basement Space
It is not always possible to assess at the time of inspection whether there is adequate combustion air provided. It is my intent to report on conditions indicative of the lack of combustion air.
A combustion type water heater must have an adequate source of combustion air for the fuel to burn properly. An inadequate air supply may cause incomplete combustion and can produce carbon monoxide. This installation does not appear to have enough combustion air for proper/safe function. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed plumber.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Venting/Vent clearances at Exterior: No defects noted
B-vent Chimney: Minimum 1" to combustibles (Missing insulation baffle in attic), Pipe connections concealed in finished/inaccessible spaces, Cap/Hat (Present), Storm collar (Collar loose/not properly attached)
Vent connector (run from heater to chimney/vent): B-Vent Connector, Single wall metal pipe (Run to b-vent), very short piece (taped over)
Draft Hood: Present and in proper position
TPRV and PRV❗: TPRV General Information
A temperature and pressure relief valve (TPRV) is required on all water heaters to discharge any excessive pressure within the tank. A discharge pipe should be attached to the valve and directed to a safe location away from body contact. Newer installations must be directed to the building exterior or to an approved indoor drain receptor. Most manufacturers suggest that homeowners test these valve at least once a year by lifting the lever to ensure the valve discharges properly. The picture to the right shows a typical TPRV. They may also be found on the side of the heater on some models. I do not test these valves due to the possibility that they may leak after testing. A leaking or inoperative TPRV should be replaced immediately by a licensed plumber.
Due to inconsistencies between both UPC and IPC Plumbing codes, and water heater manufacturer's instructions, and TPRV manufacturer instructions, it is not actually possible to install the drain from the Water Heater TPRV "properly." There are conflicts with distance of termination to the floor/ground, types of pipes approved, and diameters of pipes approved. Additional confusion is added when jurisdictional inspectors approve installations/materials specifically not allowed by both codes and manufacturers. My recommendations will vary depending on the installation and will be included in the applicable narratives below.
Most codes defer to manufacturer instructions and I favor those recommendations. The yellow tag on the valve states clearly the termination should be 6" above the floor which is more consistent with the UPC code requirements.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
TPRV (Temperature/Pressure Relief Valve): Testing TPRV's, Type of drain pipe (CPVC), Drains to floor, NON-approved piping materials present (Plastic pipe next to draft hood, Threaded plastic adapter at TPRV), Drain pipe improperly reduced in size (Drain pipe reduced to smaller size pipe, Shark-bite type connectors reduce the inside diameter of the pipe to less than 3/4")
A temperature and pressure relief (TPR) valve is required on all water heaters to discharge any excessive pressure within the tank. A discharge pipe should be attached to the TPR valve and directed to a safe location away from body contact. Newer installations must be directed to the building exterior or to an approved indoor drain receptor. Most manufacturers suggest that homeowners test the TPR valve at least once a year by lifting the lever to ensure the valve discharges properly. The picture to the right shows a typical TPR Valve. I do not test these valves due to the possibility that they may leak after testing. A leaking or inoperative TPR Valve should be replaced immediately by a licensed plumber.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
Due to inconsistencies between both UPC and IPC Plumbing codes, and water heater manufacturer's instructions, and TPR (Temperature Pressure Relief) valve manufacturer instructions, it is not actually possible to install the drain from the Water Heater TPRV "properly." There are conflicts with distance of termination to the floor/ground, types of pipes approved, and diameters of pipes approved. Additional confusion is added when jurisdictional inspectors approve installations/materials specifically not allowed by both codes and manufacturers. My recommendations will vary depending on the installation and will be included in the applicable narratives below.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
Water Temperature: Initial and Final measured temperatures 🔥, 128 degrees F, Water temperature too hot
Tempering Valve: Tempering Valve for whole house NOT Present but recommended.
Supply Connections: Flexible Corrugated stainless steel
Water Shut-offs: Cold water shut-off present
Overflow Pan: Present
Water Heaters located on finished floors should have trays to prevent damage from flooding. When possible it is also recommended that the tray have a drain to the exterior to prevent overflow of the tray. High water alarms can be installed to monitor trays without drains.
Heat Traps: Loop type heat trap present
For energy conservation some form of Heat-Trap is required on water heaters to prevent the loss of heat through thermo-siphon and conduction into the connected pipes. When they are missing I recommend having these installed when the plumber is at the premises for other reasons and as desired*
Drain Valve: Present
Leaks: No evidence of past/present leaking
Seismic Strapping: present
It was also noted the TPRV drain has a plastic threaded adapter at the attachment to the valve. This is not allowed per the manufacturer of the CPVC type pipe. Also the plastic pipe is not allowed so close to the draft hood due to the potential for melting during back-drafting. I recommend evaluation/repairs and/or replacement as deemed necessary by a licensed plumber in the context of other plumbing repairs done at the home.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ
Shark bite type fittings effectively reduce the inside diameter of the TPRV drain pipe that is required to be full 3/4" pipe to the point of termination. Likely all that is necessary is to replace the push connector with a glue on fitting. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed plumber or other qualified party.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
At 125°±F degrees F, the water temperature is considered too high. I recommend lowering the water temperature to 120 degrees as required for safety. State of Washington Home Inspector Standards of Practice require me to note that the recommended safe water temperature is under 120 degrees F. Consideration should be given to having a tempering valve installed to allow for higher tank temperatures but to control the temperature to fixtures at safe levels.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Yard Irrigation Systems
The System location: None Present
🔥 Fire Suppression System
The System location: None Present
🔥❄️HEATING /COOLING
Fossil Fuel Systems
Underground Oil Tanks: Information
🛑 It is not always possible to determine if an underground oil storage tank (or any other kind of underground storage tank) is present on the site. If a tank is present and has been abandoned for more than two years, local ordinances often require that the tank be decommissioned or removed. Each jurisdiction has its own rules regarding decommissioning and they should be consulted regarding specific requirements. Decommissioning of a tank generally means removing any remaining oil product, filling the tank with inert material, and removing exposed pipes. I recommend that when the tank has been decommissioned that the "Certificate of Decommission" be obtained from the seller. There may be some liability exposure related to "decommissioning" of tanks as opposed to tank removal. Typically removal of the tank (and associated soil testing) represents the lowest exposure to future discovery of contaminated soils
New Seattle requirements that went into effect September 1st 2020 require that all underground oil tanks be upgraded or replaced by 2028 and also effective the same date, a 20 cents per gallon surcharge would be added to the cost of heating oil.
I recommend you determine if there is underground tank insurance in place. Maintaining or obtaining such insurance is strongly encouraged.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Possibility of an Underground Oil tank: Information
Evidence of Past Fossil Fuel Heating Systems: Previous Oil Heating system, Removed chimney
It is not always possible to determine if any kind of underground storage tank is present on the site. If a tank is present and has been abandoned, many local ordinances often require that the tank be decommissioned or removed. Each jurisdiction has its own rules regarding decommissioning and they should be consulted regarding specific requirements. Many gas heated homes were once heated with oil and when converted these tanks were never removed. The history of this property is not known to me and therefore I cannot confirm if an abandoned oil storage tank exists on the property. I highly recommend that a search be conducted to determine if any abandoned heating oil tanks remain on this property. Unknown or abandoned tanks are common place. A tank search is performed with specialized sub-surface tank detection equipment. It is possible that a tank may still be present. Finding a tank after ownership can result in a significant expense for removal or cleanup to the new homeowner. The testing of an active heating oil tank or the location of an abandoned heating oil tank is beyond the scope of this home inspection.
🛑 Safety
High Efficiency Gas Furnace
High Efficiency Gas Furnace Location: General Information
The life expectancy of a high efficiency gas furnace is approximately 20 to 25 years. This figure can vary widely depending on many factors. All such furnaces from this time period should be considered past there useful life and should be replaced for safety and efficiency reasons.
- The “heart” of a furnace is a metal chamber referred to as a heat exchanger. All or most areas of the heat exchanger are not readily accessible or visible to a home inspector. Therefore, assessment of a furnace is limited to external and operational conditions. The older the unit, the greater the probability of failure. A thorough inspection by a qualified HVAC contractor is advised for a full evaluation of heat exchanger conditions, particularly when the unit is beyond its expected useful life.
Manufacturer: Lennox
Manufacture Date: 2009
Years old: 11
BTU's Up-flow Furnace: BTU input/output/efficiency, 70,000, 95% efficient
Drip Legs and Sediment Traps: Sediment Traps (Present (utility side of appliance shut-off valve))
Function: Unit appeared to operate normally, using thermostat controls
Condition/Access: Access to heating unit (Poor access, Keeping stored items away from the unit is recommended)
Venting & Combustion/dilution air taken from space around furnace: Plastic Vent/Air intake pipe
Condensate disposal: General Information, Pump Present (Drains to exterior at), location under deck, Trap present, but broken
Condensing gas fired appliances create condensation that must be properly disposed of. Also traps in the condensate drain must be provided to prevent bypass of air from outside the unit to inside the unit that occur due to pressure differentials. Locations subject to freezing should be protected from freezing accordingly. No determination is made as to whether this unit is adequately protected or not. Traps must also be kept clean and this is something that cannot be seen at the time of inspection but should be part of routine servicing/maintenance of the unit.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
Vent termination at: south side of home
Filter at: Plenum under furnace, Conditions of filter (Filter is clean)
Electrical Shut-off: Breaker in electrical panel
Gas Pipe Connection: Union present, Hard pipe connection (Pipe in contact with furnace compartment)
Thermostat at: Programmable type, living room
There was very poor access to the heating system. I recommend proper access be created and maintained.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
The condensate trap has a crack. I could not determine if this affects function in any way but it should be evaluated and repaired/replaced by the licensed HVAC contractor as deemed necessary.
- 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Where the gas pipe enters the side of the furnace it is in contact with the metal side of the furnace. Contact between the two metals can result in galvanic corrosion and over time could result in failure of the gas pipe and leaking of gas. I recommend proper spacing between the two metals be accomplished by a licensed HVAC contractor in the context of servicing of the unit as previously discussed.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Heating and Cooling Distribution
Distribution: Heat noted at all registers during operation of unit
Temperatures at supply registers are taken with infrared camera but it must be noted the instrument measures grille surface temperature and not the air temperature. Different register materials and textures will show different temperatures than the actual air temperature (Thermometers would be more accurate but take considerable time to take). The infrared temperatures should therefor only be seen as a rough guestimate of temperatures. It is the "relative" difference in temperatures that is of interest to the inspector to determine some level of consistent function of the system at the time of inspection and to find registers that are not delivering heat consistent with other locations.
Basically the only thing a home inspector can verify is that warn air flowed from the supply registers.
Adequacy can be affected by many factors including seasonal extremes and personal methods of use of the system.
- 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Heating/Cooling Overview: Heating units
The inspection of a ducted heating system is primarily focused on whether heat is being delivered to the various locations throughout the home. Register temperatures will be taken by infrared camera to find significant differences in temperatures delivered but it must be kept in mind these measurements are "relative" and not exact due to the way infrared sees surface temperature. Temperatures will be skewed by the type of register surface, the distance from the surface as well as velocity of air at the register. While measuring air temperature with a thermometer would be a more accurate way to test the temperature, this takes considerably more time and would not typically result in significant improvement of the information designed to verify heat is being delivered to the locations. This also does not provide any indication as to how the system will function when it is really cold out, unless it happened to be cold at the time of inspection. It also cannot therefor determine whether the system is too small or too big. All of these questions are best directed to a licensed HVAC contractor in the context of your due diligence.
- 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Ductwork: Ductwork Information
Ductwork Interiors: It is typically not possible to evaluate the interior of ductwork as to condition or the presence of detrimental materials or other conditions. Hidden conditions can include evidence of rodent and/or other vermin activity, dust/debris, water, vegetation, tobacco smoke etc. Is Duct Cleaning Really Necessary? Modern standards call for ductwork in unconditioned spaces to be insulated and all connections sealed with mastic or approved tapes. Sections are required to be properly mechanically fastened (typically with screws, but some are self locking type). Ducts are also required to meet air leakage test requirements. Much of this cannot be determined in the course of a home inspection. Sealing ductwork is one of the most cost effective energy improvements one can do to a home.
- 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Basement Ductwork: Ductwork insulation in Basement Space (No insulation/but recommended in Basement Space)
Duct Cleaning: Is duct cleaning necessary?
Heating ducts can accumulate dust over time. Under most conditions, where filters are properly maintained, cleaning of ductwork is discouraged. Properly cleaning ductwork is more complicated than merely hiring a duct cleaning contractor and having the ducts "cleaned." Standard cleaning protocols can result in introducing more dirt particles into the indoor environment than would occur had the ducts been left alone. There is significant evidence to support the idea that the dust inside ductwork actually acts as a filter itself to promote clean air in the home. Obviously if the ductwork becomes contaminated with toxic chemicals, or have been flooded etc will need to be cleaned and/or possibly be replaced. Ductwork must be adequately protected from dust during remodeling activities and if this is not done the ductwork will likely require cleaning and/or replacement. For more information on the pros and cons of duct cleaning please see: Is Duct Cleaning Really Necessary?
- 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
As an energy upgrade the ductwork in the Basement should be properly insulated---perhaps in conjunction with the upgrading of the insulation in the rest of the basement space.
- 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Air Change Fan
Energy Efficiency Documentation and Current Requirements: Current requirements
Air Change System: Missing in Remodeled homes
Whole-house air exchangers for cool climates helps reduce excess moisture problems -- like condensation on windows -- that contribute to Mold/Fungal Growth. This is especially true of HRV's that also filter the air as well. It’s the same principle as using your bathroom exhaust fan to remove moisture created by running the shower. For more information see the following link: Home Ventilation
- ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
A permanent certificate shall be completed by the builder or registered design professional and posted on a wall in the space where the furnace is located, a utility room, or an approved location inside the building. When located on an electrical panel, the certificate shall not cover or obstruct the visibility of the circuit directory label, service disconnect label, or other required labels. The certificate shall list the predominant R-values of insulation installed in or on ceiling/roof, walls, foundation (slab, below-grade wall, and/or floor) and ducts outside conditioned spaces; U-factors for fenestration and the solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC) of fenestration, and the results from any required duct system and building envelope air leakage testing done on the building. Where there is more than one value for each component, the certificate shall list the value covering the largest area. The certificate shall list the types and efficiencies of heating, cooling and service water heating equipment. Where a gas-fired unvented room heater, electric furnace, or baseboard electric heater is installed in the residence, the certificate shall list "gas-fired unvented room heater," "electric furnace" or "baseboard electric heater," as appropriate. An efficiency shall not be listed for gas-fired unvented room heaters, electric furnaces or electric baseboard heaters. (R401.3)
- ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
At the time the kitchen was remodeled (unless prior to 1991), some method of whole house ventilation would have been required. Lack of installation may be an oversight or be an indication of work being done without permits. I recommend further evaluation as desired. Sometimes these are incorporated on timers installed on bathroom or laundry room exhaust fans. It is possible I missed the timer location or it was hidden. I recommend asking seller if they are aware of any such installation.
- 🔧 Maintenance 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Inspection Limitations / Exclusions Related to Heating/Cooling
Heating/Cooling Limitations and Exclusions: Present
The following limitations and exclusions related to heating and cooling were noted:
- Poor access to furnace
- Heating Registers concealed by storage/belongings/furniture
- Determination of heating or cooling system adequacy is beyond the scope of this inspection.
- Thermostats are not checked for accuracy or timed functions.
- Determining the presence of asbestos is beyond the scope of the inspection
- 🔍 Due Diligence
WINDOWS
Windows
Safety Glazing in the Home: What about Safety Glass?
While determining the presence of "Safety Glazing" in the home is beyond the Standards of Practice, I endeavor to identify safety glazing when possible to improve safety. In this report Safety Glazing is generically used to refer to any of the types of safety glazing including "Laminated Safety Glass", "Tempered Safety Glass", "Wire Safety Glass", "Plastic Safety Films" etc. The requirements for safety glazing in homes has changed over the years and varies from jurisdiction to jurisdiction. Questions of the appropriateness or lack of safety glazing in this home should be addressed to the local building department.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
General Window Information: Single Pane Info, Double Pane Info, Mold or what looks like mold evident on some windows
Problems with single pane windows are common: broken sash joints, missing glazing, cracks, condensation issues, broken hinge mechanisms, latches, corrosion etc. Until these older units can be replaced, care must be exercised in their use due to the potential for injury from falling sashes, broken glass, and its presence in areas that would today require safety glass etc. There is a presumption that single pane type windows are typically outdated by current standards and replacement is usually advised. Because of this, inspection of these older windows is more casual than it would be if the windows were double pane type windows. Cracks and other conditions consistent with the age of these windows should be anticipated.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Problems with double pane windows are common: sash issues, condensation issues, broken hinge mechanisms, broken/missing latches, corrosion, broken thermal seals, defective thermal coatings, failed paint, failed glazing etc.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
It is common to see Mold or what looks like mold on Windows and surrounding frames--especially windows without thermal breaks. Poor air circulation behind curtains, adequate moisture in the house air, metal frames, and temperature are often adequate to promote Mold or Mold-like/Fungal Growth.
Keeping window blinds, especially well sealing types, elevated one to two inches above the window sills can greatly improve circulation and decrease fungal growth. Bedrooms are especially problematic as blinds are often drawn tight and moisture levels are higher due to bodies giving off moisture while sleeping.
Keeping these areas cleaned with soap and water is typically all that is necessary.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Styles of windows: Hopper, Fixed (picture), Double-Hung, Single-Hung
Recent replacement of some windows noted: Head flashing missing
Storm windows present: On some windows
Exterior Window Sills: Conditions of exterior window sills listed here but recommendations are in Exteriors section of this report
Interior Window Sills: Painted wood
Vinyl Windows: Double pane glass, some windows are dusty making evaluation for broken seals difficult
Wood Single Pane: Single pane, Single pane (site-built, fixed panes) (In some windows, Storm windows some locations, Some broken glass noted, Sash components in poor condition, Broken sash-weight cords, Missing lift handles)
Window Coverings/Blinds: Blinds not operated
Window coverings and blinds are not inspected for function at the time of inspection except in the process of testing windows for function. I recommend that you test these blinds as desired.
Draw strings and slatted type coverings can be a strangulation hazard for small children. I recommend considering some of the newer types of blinds that are less dangerous to small children. For more information regarding the safety hazards of blinds, see the Consumer Product Safety Commission website at: Window Blind Safety Information
1. Move all cribs, beds, furniture and toys away from windows and window cords, preferably to another wall.
2. Keep all window cords out of the reach of children. Make sure that tasseled pull cords are short, and that continuous-loop cords are permanently anchored to the floor or wall.
3. To prevent inner-cord hazards, lock cords into position when lowering horizontal coverings or shades.
4. Repair window coverings, corded shades and draperies manufactured before 2001 with retrofit cord-repair devices, or replace them with today's safer products.
5. Consider installing cordless window coverings in children's bedrooms and play areas.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Some of the windows have been installed with no head flashings. Even windows that are "self-flashing" (have a built in nail-flange) still require a metal head flashing to properly protect the window from water intrusion. Sometimes these connections are merely caulked. Until proper head flashings can be installed, I recommend the caulk be vigilantly maintained annually. This may or may not be wholly successful, especially on more exposed locations. I recommend proper head flashings be installed by a qualified siding or window installation contractor.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Most of the windows in the home are older style (original) single pane wood windows. There are cracks and poor/missing glazing and most are painted shut or otherwise not functional (broken/deteriorating sash components, broken sash cords, broken/missing locking mechanisms, missing lift handles, cracked glass (other than those pictured below should be anticipated), scratched glass, missing screens etc). I recommend factoring replacement of all of the windows in the home by a qualified window installation company. All of these windows should be properly maintained until they can be replaced. Window replacement should include evaluation/repair/replacement of trim/sills and related components as well.
The bedroom windows should be replaced to allow for proper secondary escape and rescue in case of fire or other emergency.
- 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Windows
Window Limitations/Exclusions: Furnished, Restrictions (Furnishing/Storage limited inspection, Blinds can limit inspection of windows from interior, Some windows painted shut)
If the home was furnished at the time of the inspection, not all interior finishes were visible. I advise a careful walk through once all furnishings are removed. No comments are offered on cosmetic finishes.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
🚪EXTERIOR DOORS
Front Entryway Door
Home Security: How secure are your doors?
The "Security" of any home is never absolute. At the time of inspection I assess the "basic functionality" of door and window locking mechanisms. No assessment of the individual or overall effectiveness of security is implied. Glass, frames, locks and other elements can be prone to "tampering" and are "limiting factors" of locking mechanisms/systems. All security devices and systems must be balanced against the ease of escape in the event of emergency. Concerns about the home's overall security system should be addressed by a licensed home security company.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
General Door Information: Door is primary egress door 36" by 6'-8" minimum
Door Construction: Wood
Conditions: Conditions consistent with age and use, Door(s) could benefit from upgrading
Weather-Stripping: General poor condition
Lockset & Security Mechanisms: Functioned under test
Screen/Storm Door: Present, Storm Door (Safety Glazing, Safety glass "etching" present)
All glass in doors, where the glass is larger than what a 3" sphere would fit through, is currently required to be safety type glass.
The front exterior doors could benefit from upgrading for energy efficiency and safety. It has cosmetic issues as well as defects related to age and use. Replacement of the doors can improve overall energy efficiency of the home as well as improve security of the home. Until these doors can be replaced by a qualified door installation company, I recommend that they be maintained well painted and sealed to protect the home from damage from the elements.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Basement Entryway Door
Door Construction: Plastic-Insulated
Conditions: Conditions consistent with age
Jamb/Opening/Threshold: Door binds on jamb, Some staining/moisture damage from water intrusion around bottom of door on both sides
Weather-Stripping: Present on top and sides, Type of weather-stripping (Foam Compression Type Weather Strip)
Weather-stripping condition: Door does not close tight against weather-stripping--day-light shows
Bottom of door weather-stripping: Weather-stripping is present on bottom of door
Threshold weather-stripping: Adjustable Type
Hinges: No defects noted
Lockset & Security Mechanisms: Functioned under test, Deadbolt keyed on both sides--restricts emergency egress
Glass in Door: Double Pane Glass (Opening type window, Opened), Safety Glazing (Safety glass "etching" present)
Water intrusion at both sides of the basement door is starting to cause decay in the wood core of the bottom of the door. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a qualified door installation contractor to determine how best to remedy this moisture intrusion and to make repairs as deemed necessary.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Ghosting from air leakage at weather-stripping around the door is consistent with door not closing tightly against the weather-stripping and is indicative of air leakage when the house is under negative and/or positive pressure.
- 🔧 Maintenance 🐞 WDO’s 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
The north entryway door has a dead bolt that is keyed on both sides. I recommend that these types of security locksets be replaced with dead-bolts with turn handles for safety in the event of a need to use the door in an emergency.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
South Deck Door
Door Construction: Plastic-Insulated
Conditions: Conditions consistent with age
Weather-Stripping: Present on top and sides, Type of weather-stripping (Foam Compression Type Weather Strip)
Bottom of door weather-stripping: Weather-stripping is present on bottom of door
Threshold weather-stripping: Adjustable Type
Hinges: No defects noted
Lockset & Security Mechanisms: Functioned under test
Door stops: Not determined
Glass in Door: Double Pane Glass, Safety Glazing (Safety glass "etching" present)
Screen/Storm Door: Present, Storm Door (Installation may void warranties of main door, Safety Glazing, Safety glass "etching" present)
Most manufacturer's installation instructions recommend against installation of storm doors over their Steel or Plastic insulated doors. Heat that can build up between the doors can damage components of the door--especially those with plastic trim components and glass inserts. Sometimes reflective coatings can be added to the glass to protect the door. These are especially problematic on the south and west sides of the home.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Interior Doors
Interior Doors
Interior Doors: Minimum 1/2"-3/4" clearance under interior doors for forced air heating system, Minimum 1/2"-3/4" clearance under interior doors for proper function of exhaust fans
For proper function of forced air heating systems there must be sufficient air flow for the air entering at the heat registers to be able to flow to the furnace air return when it is not located in the same room. When carpeting, etc. interfere with this flow, I recommend that homeowner/handyperson cut off the bottom of the door to allow for a minimum of 3/4" (one inch is better).
- 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Rooms with exhaust fans, such as bathrooms and laundry rooms, require adequate clearances under doors into those rooms to allow for proper function of the fans. When carpeting, etc. interfere with this flow, I recommend that homeowner/handyperson cut off the bottom of the door to allow for a minimum of 3/4" (one inch is better)
- 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Styles of Doors: Recessed Panel
Interior door conditions: Doors show signs of "wear and tear" and some damage, locksets less than fully functional (typical of age) repair/replace as desired
Door Stops: Not determined
Many of the interior doors Doors show signs of "wear and tear" and some damage. Upgrade as desired.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Many of the interior door lock sets are not functional, locksets not functional (typical of age) repair/replace as desired, locksets less than fully functional (typical of age) repair/replace as desired, locksets less than fully functional--don't latch--repair/replace as desired,
locksets not properly attached--I recommend repairs by homeowner/handyperson, etc. Upgrade as desired. The door to the closet in teh NE Bedroom does not latch. I recommend repairs by a qualified party to allow for proper function.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Interior Doors
Interior Door Limitations/Exclusions: Restrictions (Furnishing/Storage limited inspection)
INTERIORS
Global Interior Information
Information related to Interiors of the building: Things that make the inspection difficult
The items listed below were present at the time of inspection. These items can conceal damage to walls/floors. Concealed defects are not within the scope of the home inspection. Some of these conditions may only become apparent in the course of remodeling or other more invasive investigations:
- Carpeting
- Area Rugs
- Furnishings
- Piano
- Built-in Cabinets
- Appliances
- Storage Items
- Curtains/Blinds
- Bookcases, Paneling
- Wallpaper
- Paintings/Pictures
- Mirrors
- 🔍 Reasonable steps should be taken such that you are fully informed and confident.
Habitability, Egress and Escape & Rescue related to sleeping and non-sleeping areas: Current safety guidelines, Non conforming "bedrooms"
Listing information for homes often call rooms sleeping rooms according to appraiser records and various other determinations. In this report, while I may refer to rooms as bedrooms, technically rooms that do not have a means of heat, secondary escape and rescue, or sufficient height (as well as numerous other habitability requirements) do not mean current requirements to be considered "habitable." These non-conforming "sleeping rooms" could almost always benefit from improvements for safety and habitability. Minimum height requirement is 7' and may indicate remodeling of the basement without permits or some variance that was permitted.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Basement Escape and Rescue: Escape & Rescue (through door to exterior)
Indoor Air Quality 🌲: IAQ Info
All houses are potentially subject to indoor air quality concerns due to numerous factors such as improper venting systems, out-gassing from construction materials, etc. Air quality can also be adversely affected by the growth of molds, fungi and other microorganisms – most are the result of adverse moisture conditions. A home inspection does not include assessment of potential health or environmental contaminants or allergens. If leakage occurs or detrimental moisture conditions exist or develop the possibility of potentially harmful contaminants exists and therefore should be immediately addressed. For air quality evaluations, a qualified testing firm should be contacted.
- 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Pre-1978 Structures: Lead pre-1978
Homes constructed prior to 1978 most likely contain paints with some lead. These paints are not considered a problem as long as the paint does not become "friable" or air-borne. Keeping walls and woodwork well painted can minimize exposure to the lead paints. It is recommended that old painted wood be removed and properly disposed of as opposed to sanding and stripping of the woodwork. For additional information contact the EPA at: Lead Information
I can have the home tested for lead based paints for an additional fee.
- 🛑 There are safety concerns associated with this issue.
- 🔍 Reasonable steps should be taken such that you are fully informed and confident.
Lead testing Protocols: Testing required
As of April 22, 2010, new Lead Safety protocols became effective, and any work done on homes built prior to 1978 are required to have paint tested for the presence of lead whenever remodeling or painting that would result in the paint becoming airborne. Testing and removal of lead based paint must meet strict abatement protocols and work must be performed by qualified persons with Lead Abatement certification and training. There are procedures to allow for homeowners to perform this work themselves but they too must follow the safety guidelines. For additional information see the link to the EPA's website: LEAD Safety Protocols
- 🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Pre-1986 Structures: Asbestos general information
Asbestos products were commonly used in buildings until around 1986 (give or take a few years) and their presence should be assumed in homes prior to that time period. Common building materials that sometimes contain asbestos are "popcorn" textured ceilings, acoustic tiles, linoleum or vinyl (which might have another surface them), siding, vermiculite insulation, heat duct insulation/tape, and heating pipe insulation. Asbestos products are not usually considered to be a problem as long as they are in sound condition and not friable. However, if remodeling is done, a strict safety protocol must be adhered to.
- 🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Thermal Bridging (ghosting, thermophoresis): What is thermal bridging?
The dark shadowing (sooting) that can show up on ceilings and walls is common in homes with inadequate or no insulation. It forms quicker depending on the amount of dirt that there is in the air to collect on these cooler surfaces. However, it will build up over time in most any home but especially homes that have soot producing mechanisms. This could be candles, pets--even busy highways nearby--etc. It is often referred to as thermal bridging, thermal tracking or ghosting. Another name for this condition is thermophoresis--the tendency for small particles to be attracted to surfaces of different temperatures. In homes with attics, this ghosting can often be fixed by improving the insulation in the areas of ghosting. Even attics with some insulation, if it is not thick enough, some amount of thermophoresis can occur. None was noted at the time of inspection.
- 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Combustion/Dilution Air: This home has appliances that need air.
All combustion appliances require air for proper combustion. Homes with inadequate means of introducing air for these combustion appliances are at risk of the build-up of harmful combustion by-products and back-drafting of the exhaust from these systems. Other mechanical exhaust fans can also compete for intake air and complicate the problem. Assurances are warranted that there is adequate sources of makeup air for both combustion appliances and exhaust fans.
Homes with all direct vent gas appliances rarely have combustion-air related issues. Ranges should only be operated with the hood exhaust running.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
General Floor Conditions: Floors typical of age/use/type of construction
Generally, throughout the home (including bathrooms, kitchen, laundry etc) the floors have some mechanical damage and wear consistent with age and use. Concerns that warrant additional mention, if any, will be described in more detail in the flooring section of the individual rooms below.
General Wall and Ceiling Conditions: Walls and ceilings have conditions consistent with age, type of construction and use
Homes with Plaster Walls/Ceilings: Overall wall and ceiling conditions
Generally, throughout the home (including bathrooms, kitchen, etc) the walls and ceilings have some mechanical damage, some nail pops, cracking typical of plaster, settlement/shrinkage cracks typical of most plaster installations. Concerns deserving additional mention will be described in more detail in the walls & ceiling sections of the individual rooms below. Issues related to the significant settlement along the North side have been discussed in the Basement section of the report.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Bathrooms: The following bathrooms were present
1/4 Baths: 1
Full Bathrooms: 1
Sleeping Rooms: 4
Kitchens: 1
Laundries: 1
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Interiors)
Interiors Limitations/Exclusions: General Interiors Information, Storage under sinks(s) limited inspection, Towels and/or bathmats placed on tub surfaces can conceal damage
- Belongings/Storage/Furnishings limited inspection
- Blinds and curtains limited inspection of windows
- Area-Carpets limited inspection of floors: hidden conditions are common, including: previous repairs, water & pet damage etc
- No access to space under stairs
- No comments are offered on cosmetic finishes
- Appliances limit inspection of floors under them
- If the home was furnished at the time of the inspection, not all interior finishes were visible
- 🔍 Due Diligence
🧀Mold or What Looks Like Mold at Interiors / Doors / Windows
Buildings Can Have Mold: How about this one?
The Standard Home Inspection does not attempt to identify whether the type of Mold or what looks like Mold seen on the premises are of types considered to have adverse health affects. Concerns regarding the toxicity of Mold is deferred to Qualified Industrial Hygienists who should be contacted regarding any concerns that you might have about Mold or what appears to be Mold found on the property. Please see the information below regarding Mold from the EPA.
The following link is a good source for the most current information regarding mold in the home: Health Effects of Indoor Mold
- 🔍 Reasonable steps should be taken such that you are fully informed and confident.
Mold and/or stains on surfaces: Some present--moisture levels below what is considered conducive for continued growth, around basement sw window
Interior Barriers/Guards
Horizontal Barriers/Guards
Guard conditions: 36" or higher, Barrier not adequate, at hallway at top of stairs, Barrier support posts poorly attached
Openings in Wood Barrier (Interior Guard): Greater than 4" baluster spacings
The barrier/guard does not have proper spacings less than 4 inches. Current requirements call for guard spaces to be less than 4 inches as this is less that what a child can fit his or her body through that could result in strangulation when their head does not fit. For improved safety, the spaces should be reduced to less than 4 inches. The railing is also poorly supported at the south end and might not support a fall against it. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a qualified railing installation contractor.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Stairs
Stairs to Second Floor
Stair General Information: Landings (Landings present at top and bottom), Stairs very steep--typical of age and type of construction, Less than 36" wide, Stairs don't meet current standards
Stair Risers: Closed Risers, Inconsistent riser height--trip hazard present (Improper riser height, more that 7-3/4" high)
Stair Treads: Wood, Conditions (Less than 10 tread depth nosing to nosing)
Headroom: Headroom adequate
Presence of Stair Guard: walls
Handrails: Present, Handrail does not conform to current safety standards (does not return to wall at top and bottom of railing)
Modern standards require that stairwells be a minimum of 36" wide. Stairwells to Attic spaces and Second floor remodeled areas are often less than 36" wide, are steep and have other defects. Care must be exercised using these stairs to avoid injury to persons. Relocation/changes to these stairs (while recommended) is usually difficult.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
It is common for stairs to the basement and attic levels in homes of this age to not meet current standards. Improper side barriers, handrails, tread depth, riser height, head room etc are common. Changes to these stairs for safety may be warranted but often times adjustments are difficult and/or expensive.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Improving of the railings of the upper stairs by a qualified stair railing installation company, so that the ends return to the wall, is recommend for improved safe use of the stairs. Handrail ends should be either returned to the post, returned to the wall, or terminate at newel posts or safety terminals. Ends that are not properly terminated can snag belongings and lead to injuries of persons using the railings.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Stairs to Basement
Stair General Information: Landings (Landings present at top and bottom), Stairs very steep--typical of age and type of construction, Less than 36" wide, No access to some of the space under stairs, Stairs don't meet current standards, Poor basement stairs, Inadequate winders on older stairs
Stair Risers: Inconsistent riser height--trip hazard present (Improper riser height, more that 7-3/4" high)
Stair Treads: Wood, Conditions (Less than 10 tread depth nosing to nosing)
Headroom: Headroom not adequate, less than 6'-8", older home
Presence of Stair Guard: None present
Handrails: Present, Handrail does not conform to current safety standards (too small a diameter, may not meet the requirement to be "graspable", not continuous)
Modern standards require that stairwells be a minimum of 36" wide. Stairwells to Attic spaces and Second floor remodeled areas are often less than 36" wide, are steep and have other defects. Care must be exercised using these stairs to avoid injury to persons. Relocation/changes to these stairs (while recommended) is usually difficult.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
It is common for stairs to the basement levels in homes of this age to not meet current standards. Improper side barriers, handrails, tread depth, riser height, head room etc are common. Changes to these stairs for safety may be warranted but often times adjustments are difficult and/or expensive.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
The winders at the basement stairs do not have proper minimum tread width at the tight end. This is common in older homes. This condition allows for less than desirable tread width in the walking path--which can lead to falls on the stairs. Repairs would likely be difficult----I recommend further evaluation by qualified stair installation company if desired for improved safety.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
From any stair nosing in the run of the stairs, the minimum headroom vertical from the nosing to the lowest overhead point is required to be more than 6'-8." Repairs when clearances are too low, run from possible to not practical. In older homes this condition is common. As desired, I recommend evaluation/repairs by a qualified general contractor that utilizes the services of a structural engineer if deemed necessary.
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Proper handrails on stairs can promote safe use of the stairs and prevent falls that can result in serious injury or even death. Handrails are required to meet specific guidelines on all stairs with 4 risers or more. In some cases they are prudent on stairs with fewer risers. The handrail is required to be graspable as defined in the building codes. There are three basic types and the following info applies to the handrail(s) at this location: Type I Handrail
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Modern standards call for handrails for stairways to be continuous for the full length of the flight, from a point directly above the top riser of the flight to a point directly above lowest riser of the flight. The ends of the handrail should be returned to the wall or terminate in newel posts or safety terminals. The handrails adjacent to a wall should have a space of not less than 1-1/2 inch (38 mm) between the wall and the handrails. To improve the safe use of the stairs I recommend that a continuous type railing be installed by a qualified stair railing installation company. Installing a proper continuous handrail on these difficult stairs would make a good improvement to help with some of its other short comings.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
🔥Fireplaces
Living Room Gas Fireplace
Gas Fireplace: 🛑 Fireplace not for use with wood or solid fuels 🛑, Lighting & Maintenance instructions (Present), Function (Unit not operated at time of inspection)
Appliance Gas Shut-off: Gas shut-off valve is present 📸
Unit Gas Controls: Unit gas valve/controls (Present)
Possible gas line leaks or defects should be corrected immediately. Each gas appliance should have a gas shut off located in the same room/area as the unit. Advise checking for presence and labeling all valves.
Glass Condition: Condensate present on glass surface
One of the by-products of combustion in a gas fireplace is water. When initially starting the gas fireplace it is normal for a small amount of moisture to condense on the glass. This "fogging" of the glass usually disappears once the fireplace is warmed up. Over time this condensation leaves a white film on the glass that does not go away. This condensate should be removed with a Fireplace Glass Polish. Over time this condensate can cover all of the glass and permanently disfigure the glass making polishing difficult if not impossible. Regular maintenance of the glass will be necessary to keep the glass clear. (Rutland, "White Off" is one brand available and Stove & Hearth stores)
- 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Venting/Vent clearances at Exterior: Direct Vent/Air-Intake, Cap Located at, above chimney, Metal Concentric Pipe
Glass Doors/Operating Controls/Instructions: Air-tight type glass panel, Lighting/maintenance instructions (Present under unit)
🪑Living Room
Room Floors
Floor Coverings General Information: Squeaking floors noted, Much sloping of floors noted
Squeaking floors (when walked upon) are common in all types of construction, show up under different conditions and are not always apparent during inspection. Newer construction utilizes adhesives to reduce the likelihood of squeaks. Their presence sometimes indicates that adhesive has been omitted. There are many other causes of squeaks as well. Sometimes squeaks can be minimized by removal of carpeting and screwing the subfloor to the joists. This note will not be repeated for other squeaking floors in the home to minimize repetition.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Wood: Present covering, Conditions (Some Stains/Wear present (consistent with age of flooring))
Room Walls/Ceilings
Wall/Ceiling General Information: Acoustic Spray, in the hallway
Plaster/Plaster Board: Plaster, Present (Much patching/repair/paint touch-up noted, Some mechanical damage noted, Many settlement/shrinkage cracks noted), Damage consistent with structural issues (Above windows, Below windows, Above doors, Wall/ceiling corners, On walls, On Ceiling), Stains (Stains tested "negative" for moisture at time of inspection)
Room Closets
Living Room Closet: None present
⚡Heat
Room Heat: Forced Air (Rise in temperature noted during operation of heating system)
🛌NE Sleeping Room
Escape and Rescue openings
Escape and Rescue and Habitability Requirements for Sleeping Rooms: Current safety guidelines
Sleeping room windows that are to be used as secondary escape and rescue requirements, must meet certain size parameters. Not only are they required to be a "minimum" of 24" high and a "minimum" of 20" wide, these minimum dimensions will vary depending on how tall or wide the window opening is as well as whether the window is at grade or at upper levels of the home. There must also be a minimum of 5 sq ft of "net opening" for windows at grade (5.7 sq ft at higher floor levels). The bottom of the window opening must also not be more than 44" above the floor as well. This informational note not repeated for other sleeping rooms. This note will not be repeated for other sleeping rooms to minimize repetition.
- 🛑 Safety 🔍 Due Diligence
Sleeping Room Escape and Rescue Openings: window present
Room Floors
Floor Coverings General Information: Some "squeaking" noted
Wood: Present covering, Conditions (Some Stains/Wear present (consistent with age of flooring))
Room Walls/Ceilings
Drywall/Plaster: Present
Room Walls
Wall General Information: Cracks typical of age and construction present throughout home
Plaster/Plaster Board: Plaster, Present (Much patching/repair/paint touch-up noted)
Room Ceilings
Ceiling General Information: Acoustic Spray
Drywall/Plaster: Present
The older sprayed-on acoustic ceilings in the home typically contained a small amount of asbestos (5 to 7%). Only laboratory testing can confirm the presence of asbestos. For more info (including information on safe removal) check the links below. Generally it is advised to not disturb the material and keep it from becoming friable by maintaining paint. Asbestos Information Puget Sound Clean Air, Asbestos Information
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Room Closets
Sleeping Room Closet: Present
⚡Heat
Room Heat: Forced Air (Rise in temperature noted during operation of heating system)
🛌SE Sleeping Room
Escape and Rescue openings
Sleeping Room Escape and Rescue Openings: window present
Room Floors
Floor Coverings General Information: Some "squeaking" noted
Wood: Present covering, Present
Room Walls/Ceilings
Wall/Ceiling General Information: Acoustic Spray, Cracks typical of age and construction present throughout home
Most older homes with drywall ceilings and walls, unevenness, cracks, evidence of patching, and defects hidden behind wall paper, are common. While the inspector may comment on such flaws, cosmetic issues are not the focus of the inspection.
Plaster/Plaster Board: Plaster, Present (Much patching/repair/paint touch-up noted)
Room Ceilings
Ceiling General Information: Acoustic Tile
The older acoustic ceiling in the _____ typically contained a small amount of asbestos (5 to 7%). Only laboratory testing can confirm the presence of asbestos. For more info (including information on safe removal) check the links below. Generally it is advised to not disturb the material and keep it from becoming friable by maintaining paint. Asbestos Information Puget Sound Clean Air, Asbestos Information
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ
Room Closets
Sleeping Room Closet: Present
⚡Heat
Room Heat: Forced Air (Rise in temperature noted during operation of heating system)
🛌Upper North Sleeping Room
Escape and Rescue openings
Sleeping Room Escape and Rescue Openings: window present
Room Floors
Floor Coverings General Information: Some "squeaking" noted, Sloped floors present
Wood: Present covering, Conditions (Some Stains/Wear present (consistent with age of flooring))
Room Walls/Ceilings
Wall/Ceiling General Information: Localized cracks typical of age and construction present throughout home
Homosote (or other fiber-board material): Present (Much patching/repair and/or less than professional installation noted, Many seams noted, Some settlement/shrinkage cracks noted), Stains (Stains tested "negative" for moisture at time of inspection)
The materials used on the walls and ceilings of all the upper level rooms is a fiber-board of unknown brand but looks like Homosote. It is poorly finishes with many seams showing and other physical damage and staining. No further recommendation at this time and no determination is made as to whether it contains asbestos or not. Testing is the only way to know. This information will not be repeated for the other upper room areas including the hallway and stairwell.
- ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Room Closets
Sleeping Room Closet: Present
⚡Heat
Room Heat: Forced Air (Rise in temperature noted during operation of heating system)
🛌Upper SE Sleeping Room and Hallway
Escape and Rescue openings
Sleeping Room Escape and Rescue Openings: window present
Room Floors
Floor Coverings General Information: Some "squeaking" noted
Wood: Present covering
Room Walls/Ceilings
Wall/Ceiling General Information: Cracks typical of age and construction present throughout home
Homosote (or other fiber-board material: Present (Much patching/repair and/or less than professional installation noted, Many seams noted, Some mechanical damage noted, Some settlement/shrinkage cracks noted), Stains (Stains tested "negative" for moisture at time of inspection), Missing wall board on wall at top of stairs
Room Closets
Sleeping Room Closet: Present
⚡Heat
Room Heat: Forced Air (Rise in temperature noted during operation of heating system)
🛀Main Bathroom
Bathroom Floors
Floor Coverings General Information: Sloped floors present
Tile/Stone: Tile
Bathroom Walls and Ceilings
Wall/Ceiling General Information: Cracks typical of age and construction present throughout home
Plaster/Plaster Board: Present (Some patching/repair/paint touch-up noted, Some settlement/shrinkage cracks noted)
Sinks and Cabinets and Accessories
Sinks: Type of sink (Porcelain)
Fixtures and flow of water: Flow apparent, Water shut-offs present
Sink Drainage: Water drained, Pop-Up Stopper (Functioned)
Cabinets: Stained Finish Wood Cabinets, Euro-Style Hinges
Euro-style hinges are prone to loosening and periodically need tightening and adjustment to keep them lined up and secure. This will not be repeated for other locations of euro-style hinges.
Accessories: Towel bars/hooks present, Toilet Paper holder present, Medicine Cab (Recessed type)
Bathtub and Enclosure
Bathtub and/or Bathtub/Shower: Cast Iron Tub, Conditions related to tub (Stains present---consistent with age of tub)
Flow of water at Tub: Water flowed
Tub Drainage: Water drained, Pop-Up Stopper (pop-up stopper missing)
Walls around tub: Tile/Stone Wall enclosure, Caulk noted at tile wall/tub connection
Curtain/Glass: Curtain Rod (Present)
Windows/Glass: Glazing within 60" of tub and less than 60" above the floor, Safety Glazing on glass less than 60" above floor (Window safety glass not determined)
The pop-up stopper is missing in the Bathroom tub. I recommend repairs by qualified plumber or other qualified repair person. These pop-up stoppers are readily available at Lowes/Home Depot.
- 🔧 Maintenance 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
The grout around the bottom of the tiles where they connect with the tub have been caulked over. Caulking this connection can result in trapping of moisture behind the tiles/caulk resulting in mold growth behind the caulk. This connection should either be grouted only or per current best practice recommendations should be filled with sanded caulk. I recommend proper repairs of this connection by a qualified tile installation company as desired or when it visually becomes necessary (discolors).
- 🔧 Maintenance 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Toilet
Toilets: Flushed at time of inspection with no leaking noted after operation in readily visible areas, Flow of water to toilet (Flow apparent, Water shut-off is present)
While the toilet drainage was tested at the time of inspection and no leaking was noted, this should not be construed to mean the toilet will not leak in the future or that even current leaking might be concealed. This is especially true of recent repairs/installations where work was done in a less than professional manner. Toilets not mounted on concrete are checked with a moisture meter around the base. Any leaking noted should be properly repaired as soon as practical and hidden damage is always possible.
- 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
Tank: No issues noted
Bowl: floor around toilet checked with a moisture meter, Caulked to floor, not determined
When applicable (not installed on concrete) floors around toilets are checked with a moisture meter.
I recommend verification the toilet is properly caulked to the floor. This helps keep the toilet stable and makes cleaning around the toilet easier.
- 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
Bathroom Ventilation
Exhaust fan: Tub Area Vent Fan, Fan maintenance, Components/Condition/Function (Fan turns on, Fan holds tissue paper)
Over time exhaust fans can collect a lot of lint. This lint can become a fire hazard. Regular cleaning of these units should be performed by a qualified party. I recommend they be cleaned once a year until a cleaning history is established. At that point it can be determined if cleaning is necessary more or less frequently. I typically do not dismantle these units to see if they need cleaning or not, so being proactive about cleaning is recommended. I recommend evaluation/repairs and/or replacement as deemed necessary by a qualified party.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Vent Termination: Through the wall type vent (Terminates at), north side of home
⚡Heat
Room Heat: Forced Air (Rise in temperature noted during operation of heating system)
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Bathroom
Bathroom Limitations/Exclusions: General Bathroom Information
The following limitations and information were present related to the bathroom:
- Storage under sinks(s) limited inspection
- Area carpets and other furnishings on floors can conceal damage to floors
- Towels and/or bathmats placed on tub surfaces can conceal damage
- Sink and Tub overflows are not tested.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
🛀Basement Toilet
Bathroom Floors
Concrete: Unfinished floor
Bathroom Walls and Ceilings
Wall/Ceiling General Information: unfinished area of basement
Sinks and Cabinets and Accessories
Sinks: See Laundry
Toilet
Toilets: Flushed at time of inspection, Flow of water to toilet (Flow apparent, Water shut-off is present)
Tank: Water level too high
Bowl: Not properly caulked to the floor
The toilet tank water level in the basement toilet is too high could allow the water to run continuously. This can waste considerable water. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed plumber or other qualified party.
- 🔧 Maintenance 🔍 Due Diligence
I recommend proper caulking of the bases of all of the toilets to the floor---where currently missing. Caulking the base of the toilet helps to stabilize the toilet as well as making cleaning around the toilet easier. Proper caps can be installed on the hold-down bolts as well.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Bathroom Ventilation
Exhaust fan: None present
The basement toilet area has no ventilation fan. I recommend that a proper timer controlled exhaust fan be installed in the area by a qualified ventilation contractor.
- ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
🍲Kitchen
Kitchen Floors
Floor Coverings General Information: Loose transition strips
Vinyl/Vinyl Panels: Present
Kitchen Walls and Ceilings
Drywall/Plaster: Present (Some patching/repair/paint touch-up noted)
In older homes that have undergone renovation there can be a combination of plaster & lath and drywall walls and ceilings. Unevenness, cracks, evidence of patching, and defects hidden behind wall paper, are all fairly common. While the inspector may comment on such flaws, cosmetic issues are not the focus of the inspection.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Kitchen Cabinets/Countertops
Countertops: Partially visible due to belongings present, Unidentified synthetic
When there are belongings/storage on countertops it is not possible to fully assess the condition of the countertop as items are typically not moved to check covered areas. There may be reasons why I would move something to check, but it should not be considered routine and hidden conditions should be anticipated.
Backsplash: Tile
Cabinets: Painted Wood/Laminate Cabinets, Euro-Style Hinges
Kitchen Sinks
Sink: Stainless Steel, Spray Wand (Switched modes normally), Single bowl, Sink caulked to countertop in readily visible areas
Kitchen Sink Water Flow: Water flowed, Water shut-offs (present)
Kitchen Sink Drainage: Water Drained
While the sink drainage was tested at the time of inspection and no leaking was noted, this should not be construed to mean the sink will not leak in the future or that even current leaking might be concealed. This is especially true of recent repairs/installations where work was done in a less than professional manner. Functional testing of the sink during the inspection will not duplicate normal use. Any leaking noted should be properly repaired as soon as practical and hidden damage is always possible.
Dishwasher
Manufacturer: Bosch
Manufacture Date: 2016
Years old: 4
Air Gap: Improper connection under sink, Hard connected to drain wrong side of trap
Function/Testing: Not Operated
Secured in Opening: Sides secured
Electrical connection: Electrical disconnect at Electrical Service Panel, "Lockout device" is NOT present / but recommended (see electrical section of report)
Dishwasher Drain Terminates At: improperly terminated
Conditions/Water Shut-off: Water shut-off valve (Present under sink cabinet)
Hammer Arresters: missing newer construction
Hammer arresters are required by modern standards at appliances that have quick shut-off electronic valves. These devices protect the valve and plumbing from damage. I recommend evaluation/repairs by a licensed plumber in the context of other plumbing repairs.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Disposer
Manufacturer: none present
Hot Water Tap
Range/Cooktop
Manufacturer: Samsung
Manufacture Date: 2016
Years old: 4
Function/Testing: Components heated-up using normal controls
Ranges are only inspected as to basic function---do they turn off and on. How well they perform is not possible in the context of a standard home inspection. Each users experience can be different. Ranges often have issues with not being level/plumb, oven lights, door gaskets, scorching around gaskets, broken door glass, inadequate/broken door springs, missing shelves/racks, loose/broken door and/or drawer pulls, non-functional indicator lights, non-functional timers, mechanical damage etc. Some of these things may be discussed in the Narrative portion of this report.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🔍 Due Diligence
Oven function: Components heated-up using normal controls (Broiler turned on)
Gas Range: Re-ignition function (Did not re-light with flame blown out)
Range Gas Shut-off: Gas Shut-Off NOT located may be behind unit
Many modern gas ranges have auto-relight functions for the burners. In the event that a gust of wind were to blow out the flame--especially when adjusted to low--the re-light function allows the burner to re-light itself for safety. This particular unit does not appear to have that function and no determination is made as to whether it can be added or not. Upgrade/modify as desired. No further recommendation at this time.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade
Current regulations allow the unit's gas shut-off to be behind the unit and consider this location to be "accessible." At the time of inspection it was not possible to verify its presence. I recommend verifying that the shut-off is currently installed in an "approved" location. If it is found to not be present, I recommend proper repairs by licensed plumber.
🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade
Refrigerator
Manufacturer: Fisher & Paykel
Model #: Model # NOT determined--data plate missing/not found
Serial #: Serial # NOT determined--data plate missing/not found
Manufacture Date: Year of manufacture NOT determined--data plate not located
Refrigerator Temperature: Verify proper temperature
Maintaining proper temperatures inside of refrigerators/freezers can be difficult. Obtaining thermometers to place in refrigerators and freezers to continually monitor interior temperatures is recommended for food safety. When the temperature of the refrigerator compartment is above 38 degrees F, the setting should be lowered for the safe keeping of food. When the temperature of the freezer compartment is above 5 degrees F, the setting should be lowered for the safe keeping of food.
- 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Ice Maker: None present
Microwave/Hood
Manufacturer: General Electric
Manufacture Date: 2015
Years old: 5
Vent Pipe: Smooth Wall Metal Duct, Conditions (NOT insulated)
Vent Termination: Terminates above the roof at a proper cap with back-draft damper and screened opening
Electrical Connection: "Plug-in" electrical disconnect in adjacent cabinet
Function/Testing: Heating component of Microwave oven not tested at time of inspection
The ductwork in the crawl space for the exhaust fan is not insulated. As an upgrade this duct should be insulated in the context of other energy savings improvements.
- 🔧 Maintenance 🐞 WDO’s 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
⚡Kitchen Heat
Room Heat: None present
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Kitchen
Kitchen Limitations/Exclusions: General Information
Evidence of past leaks under kitchen sinks is common. While I endeavor to verify current leaks at the time of inspection sometimes leaks are incidental or due to specific uses not duplicated at the time of inspection. Monitoring of moisture conditions under sinks should be a normal part of routine home maintenance.
- Appliances are not moved during the inspection.
- Inspection of appliances, if done, should be considered "casual" and should in no way be construed to mean function is adequate. Any testing done is more related to whether they turn on/off or not, not how well they function or do not function. Any information provided is merely a courtesy, as our Standards of Practice do not require inspection of built-in or portable appliances.
- Dishes and other kitchen storage items can limit inspection of cabinets and countertops. These areas should be reviewed during a final walk-through.
- Oven self-cleaning operation, timers, and thermostat accuracy are not tested.
- Refrigerators, freezers, water dispensers, and ice makers are not tested.
- Storage in Kitchen Cabinets
- Storage under sink prevented full inspection
- Belongings/Storage limited inspection
- Area-Carpets limited inspection of floors: hidden conditions are common, including: previous repairs, water & pet damage etc
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Appliances/Components not inspected or partially inspected: Refrigerator(s), Dishwasher(s), Microwave(s), Range(s), Hot Water Tap(s), Exhaust vent(s)
Appliances/Components not present: Disposer not present
🧺Laundry
Laundry Floors
Concrete: Unfinished floor
Laundry Walls and Ceilings
Wall/Ceiling General Information: Unfinished basement space
Laundry Cabinets/Countertops/Sinks
Sink: Plastic (Stains present), Single bowl
Flow of water at Laundry Sink: Water flowed, Water shut-offs (None present, wall mount type faucet)
Drainage of Laundry Sink: Sink drainage (water Drained)
While the sink drainage was tested at the time of inspection and no leaking was noted, this should not be construed to mean the sink will not leak in the future or that even current leaking might be concealed. This is especially true of recent repairs/installations where work was done in a less than professional manner. Functional testing of the sink during the inspection will not duplicate normal use. Any leaking noted should be properly repaired as soon as practical and hidden damage is always possible.
Dryer
Dryer 🛑: GENERAL DRYER SAFETY INFORMATION & RECOMMENDATIONS
Dryer exhaust ducts should be independent of all other systems, should convey the moisture to the outdoors, should terminate on the outside of the building in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions and should be equipped with a back-draft damper.
- Exhaust ducts (from the Laundry Room wall to the point of termination at the exterior) should be constructed of rigid metal ducts, having smooth interior surfaces with joints running in the direction of air flow. Screens should not be installed at the duct termination. Exhaust ducts should not be connected with sheet-metal screws or any means which extend into the duct more than 1/8". (Screens and screws can trap lint.)
- Every dryer should have a screen filter to help keep dryer lint from entering the vent pipe itself. This filter must be maintained clean at all times and clogging this screen will result in increased drying time as well be a fire hazard. It is recommended the filter be cleaned between every use of the dryer. Some fabric softeners, sheet or liquid types, also clog these screens and air flow is reduced even when the screen "looks" clean. Avoiding these products is recommended and using more natural alternatives is a possibility.
- The short piece of duct that connects the dryer to the pipe that runs to the exterior of the building is called the dryer transition duct or connector. This connector is required to be UL-2158A listed and be constructed of smooth wall metal, corrugated metal, or foil types that are UL-2158A listed. Dryer manufacturers do not recommend foil type connectors, and most “common” foil type air connectors do not meet the required standard. Under extreme heat (during field testing) aluminum ducts of all kinds do poorly as connectors (even when UL-2158A listed), but the common foil types perform much worse and should never be used as transition duct. All of these types of transition ducts are extremely vulnerable to mechanical damage, which results in either leaks or restriction of air flow. There is one foil type dryer transition duct, that exceeds UL-2158A standard that holds up much better under extreme heat than either smooth wall metal or corrugated metal and is the one I recommend as best practice. DryerFlex™ type of transition connector typically cannot be purchased from your local big-box stores and is sold by duct cleaning and maintenance companies--or can be ordered on line.
- Regardless of code or UL listing, the National Fire Prevention Association (NFPA) recommends only rigid metal or corrugated metal transition duct be used. NFPA Dryer Safety Tips
- Given dryers are one of the most common causes of household fires, I consider it prudent to use the best transition duct possible and to keep the vent system and dryer itself as free of lint build-up as possible. 🛑 Annual professional cleaning is recommended 🛑.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Manufacturer: Whirlpool (Sears/Kenmore)
Manufacture Date: 1991
Years old: 19
Gas Dryer: Lint filter not inspected
Dryer Gas shut-off: Gas shut-off present, behind unit
Electric Dryer: Electric is Available, 3 prong receptacle outlet
Transition Duct (Dryer to permanent vent pipe): Foil flexible duct Whirlpool
Ducting (from transition duct to exterior): Vent pipe from Transition Duct to point of termination at Exterior, Where vent pipe travels (Through the Wall)
Dryer vent pipe requirements for any particular brand of dryer cannot usually be determined during a typical home inspection. All dryer manufacturers have maximum lengths of runs and those lengths can be greatly reduced by whether the vent pipe is vertical or horizontal, how many elbows the run has and even the type of termination cap. All new or replacement installations should verify that any piping already in place meets the requirements of the specific dryer manufacturer and modified as deemed necessary by the appliance installer per manufacturer's installation instructions.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Vent Termination: Exterior Cap (Exterior cap with back draft damper is present, Wall vent, Louver type cap)
Foil flex type exhaust vents are a known fire hazard and should be replaced with smooth wall metal or flexible metal type pipe. I recommend proper repairs by qualified persons.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
The louver type vent cap at the exterior are problematic in that the heat from the dryer tends to deform the louvers so that they don't open properly. Replacement of this type of cap with a type with a single flap is recommended. The current cap needs cleaning. There is a type of flat metal vent cap that performs much better than the plastic louver type caps.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Washer
Washer: Did not operate Washer
Manufacturer: Amana
Manufacture Date: 2011
Years old: 9
Electrical connections: 120 Volt Washer Outlet, AFCI/GFCI protected
Water Supply: Water shut-off's present, Rubber Hoses
Hammer Arresters: not present, not required at time of construction
Drains: Into Laundry Tub
Rubber hoses on washing machines are under constant pressure and are at risk of spontaneous rupture. Consider upgrading these hoses to newer stainless steel jacketed type with flood-stop devices; monitor existing hoses frequently.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor 🐞 WDO’s ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Hammer arresters are required by modern standards at appliances that have quick shut-off electronic valves. These devices protect the valve and plumbing from damage. I recommend upgrading by a licensed plumber in the context of other plumbing repairs.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Washers that drain into a laundry sink are prone to clogging the sink drain. I recommend that a proper stand pipe be installed for the washing machine so that it doesn't have to drain into the sink. Consult with a licensed plumber as to installation/upgrade.
- 🛑 Safety 🔧 Maintenance 👁🗨 Monitor ➕ Upgrade 🔍 Due Diligence
Laundry Ventilation
Exhaust fan: No Laundry vent fan present
All laundry rooms, per current standards, require some means of mechanical ventilation. This laundry room has none. I recommend installation of proper ventilation by a qualified ventilation contractor. Keep in mind that adding exhaust may compromise make-up air to appliances like dryers and additional make-up air may need to be provided (transoms, cutting off the bottom of doors, etc).
- 🛑 Safety ➕ Upgrade 🌲 Efficiency / IAQ 🔍 Due Diligence
Limitations/Exclusions Related to Laundry
Laundry Limitations/Exclusions: Laundry General Information
Evidence of past leaks under laundry sinks is common. While I endeavor to verify current leaks at the time of inspection sometimes leaks are incidental or due to specific uses not duplicated at the time of inspection. Monitoring of moisture conditions under sinks should be a normal part of routine home maintenance.
- Appliances are not moved during the inspection.
- Inspection of appliances, if done, should be considered "casual" and should in no way be construed to mean function is adequate. Any testing done is more related to whether they turn on/off or not, not how well they function or do not function. Any information provided is merely a courtesy, as our Standards of Practice do not require inspection of built-in or portable appliances.
- Belongings/Storage limited inspection
- 🔍 Due Diligence
🐞WDO's
Wood Destroying Insects, Fungi and Conducive Conditions
Washington State Rules and information related to WDO's:
🐞 In accordance with the provisions of the Revised Code of Washington (RAW) 15.58.450, this report relates to a single sale, transfer, exchange, or refinance and is not transferable to and may not be relied upon by parties involved in any subsequent sale, transfer, exchange, or refinance of the same property.
The findings listed within this report are determined by the inspector based on a visual inspection conducted in accordance with Washington Administrative Code (WAC) 16-228-2005 through 2045 and are subject to the limitations within this report, the standards listed below, and as modified by any and all associated reports attached.
This inspector endeavors to perform their services in a professional manner consistent with the care and skill ordinarily exercised by structural pest inspection professionals. This inspector will re-perform any services not meeting this standard without additional compensation.
For every inspection a "site-plan" diagram is prepared detailing the locations of Wood Destroying Organism issues. WAC 16-228-2045 requires that a diagram be prepared for WDO Inspection Reports. A copy is available upon request.
- 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Either wood destroying organisms are present or conducive conditions are present: WDO's and/or Conducive Conditions
Specific locations of Wood Destroying Organisms and Conducive Conditions are more completely described in the report component where the organisms and/or deterioration and or conducive condition was observed. This section gives more detailed information on the life cycles/habits of the various organisms and their recommended treatment/remediation.
- 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Wood Decay/Rot: What is wood decay/rot?
Wood Decay Fungi (wood rot), are filamentous organisms which begin as microscopic spores that land on the surface of wood, and germinate to produce thin strand like cells called hyphae. Hyphae grow through the wood and secrete enzymes which degrade and weaken the wood. Decay requires: (1)adequate moisture, (2)ambient temperature (32º to 110º), (3) oxygen, (4) a food source. Wood moisture levels above 20-30% are considered conducive to wood fungal rot. Damaged wood typically will need to be replaced. Ultimately the source of moisture must be eliminated even if all of the fungal organism cannot be eliminated.
- 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Conducive Conditions: Buildings with no crawl spaces
Conducive Conditions in buildings with no crawl spaces consists of any materials on the property that can provide food or habitat for wood destroying organisms. These materials can consist of plumbing leaks, form boards left in place, storage items, roots and other vegetation etc.
Limitations and Exclusions related to WDO's: General considerations
Many Wood Destroying Organisms have dormant periods and can operate unseen behind walls and insulation. While I attempt to identify rot and insect infestation whenever I can, there can never be any guarantee that there are no infestations of any kind in the building just because infestations were not seen at the time of inspection. Maintaining the building free of Wood Destroying Organisms is an ongoing process that requires vigilance and immediate attention when discovered.
- Interiors of walls and finished floors/ceilings/roofs can not be "directly" inspected for Wood Destroying Organisms.
- No treatment of Wood Destroying Organisms is provided as part of a Standard Building Inspection.
- Some under stair spaces were not possible (not typically required)
- 🐞 WDO’s 🔍 Due Diligence
Last-But-Not_Least
❓ Things to remember
Things for sellers/owners, about what buyers will want to know: even if the house is not now for sale, see notes below
- Buyers sometimes ask for samples or records of paint colors used on the premises.
- Buyers sometimes ask for records of major improvement /repairs (remodeling, new roof, etc.).
- Buyers sometimes ask for all available owner's manuals for: Furnace, Appliances, Fan Timers etc.
- Buyers will want to obtain keys/combinations to all locks.
- Buyers will want information on decommissioned oil tanks.
- Buyers will want keys to the gas shut-offs of the fireplaces.
- 🔍 Due Diligence
Receipt -- OLDER HOME Pre-listing
1947 Erehwon Ave, Sumplace, WA 98115
Inspection with digital report | $1225.00 |
$1225.00 | |
PAID |
Charles Buell Inspections INC
C/O Charles Buell
17123 22nd Ave NE
Shoreline, WA 98155
206-478-7371